#36 Planer Blade Sharpening

[@billc6087]

This is gerat. I probably spend half my time in the shop sharpening edges of one sort or another. I kinda find it relaxing actually.

[@WoodsandWater]

This is the badass thing I've seen using a table saw , hell yes !

[@joschmoyo4532]

I admire your original approach to one of the oldest chores or most expensive services getting them pro sharpened but rather you than me. It took a long time for me to hunt down a straight knife grinder at a price I could afford but it was worth every cent. Getting knives properly sharp and straight is not easy. Many pros don't deserve what they charge and I got so sick of paying top dollar for knives that did not even come back straight. You can get cheaper knife grinders now but operator skill is vital to getting a decent edge.

[@FromSteelToWood]

You are right! I've been in the same situation. Knives were sharp... but not straight!

[@joschmoyo4532]

@@FromSteelToWood I can tell you why they don't come back straight. If they stack the blades four high and grind them all at once you get accumulative error. The other reason they don't come back straight is because the operator is to lazy to let the grinder spark out at the end of the run. Often the grinder is worn out from lack of proper maintenance too. Sharpening services are very competitive so they cut corner's on staff quality 🙄. Usually the guy who does pick up and delivery does a sideline selling drugs !

[@martincrilly90]

You are the best on the wood working blogs for any how to use your tools. Thanks

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@ChrisOfAllTrades]

Thank you! I've been racking my brain how to sharpen my planer blades. I didn't want to do it free hand and doing it on the mill became too complicated. This is perfect. Thanks for sharing.

[@FromSteelToWood]

You are welcome Chris! Make sure to keep your table saw well lubricated. The grit will definitely tend to wear the tabletop.

[@ecwhite3621]

Brilliant! This is the best methodology for do it yourself sharpening on KZbin

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@OutothehousewithPaul]

Hello Joe, what an absolutely ingenious idea!! Great work Buddy!!

[@FromSteelToWood]

I like it simple! thanks!

[@JackAcid13]

So many great ideas I can use in my shop! You, Sir are a genius! I lost track of your channel about a year ago. Glad I found it again.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks Mike!

[@Dombomb25]

Love finding random stuff like this

[@stephenlnoe]

exactly what I was thinking for chipper blades/knives

[@gregthomas7950]

This is friggin brilliant! Even my little 4 3/8" blades were taking forever on a whetstone because they are so hard. Definitely going to try this. Thanks!

[@FromSteelToWood]

I am glad it can help you!

[@LaTerrazadeJoseV]

Your method is very easy and the Best a have seen. Thank you

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@lgflanang]

Very good idea for a sharpening jig. Thank you, sir.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@stoparret]

This method is shown in an old Delta manual. I'm glad to see someone's tried it. I imagine that refinements to your fixture would I improve the parallelism of your cuts. I'm not sure I'd accept a .003" bow to an edge myself.

[@FromSteelToWood]

I did not knew it was shown in a manual. Anyways, the principle is quite simple. The way the blade is fixed in the jig could improve the small bow. BTW, it's probably far less than 0.003" or the sheet would stick in that gap quite easily. Thanks!

[@philspaces7213]

stoparret every time i see delta toos, i think to myself “the new yankee workshop” hahah

[@davidrosenkrantz4854]

I thought I was going to use this method, which is ingenious. But I cut a 45 degree slot in a perfect 2"x3" square block 26" long that the blade was only exposed about 1/4" and used that on my horizontal 6x80" sander . They all came out perfect. I made a block for my 8" jointer also. I did remove the tiniest of burr on the flat side when finished on the sander. My planer blade was a 45 bevel, and the jointer was 37 degree. The bevel on the blade was vertical and all I needed to do was press lightly and sand up and down each side to get a perfect edge. I did set the table at a steep angle so as not to wear the paper out but sanding just horizontal. So happy and so cheap. They wanted 20$ per each. Razor sharp.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Great!

[@Volksaholic]

That’s a pretty cool idea that I hadn’t seen before, but if for some reason that stone breaks apart you’ll be lucky if you only damage stuff in your shop. I know, I know... most of us have never had a grinding wheel break apart, but it does happen. I like the knife holding jig. Very solid.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Hum... that makes me think a bit more about that possibility. It's pretty much running without guards in that configuration. I'll keep that in mind for the future! Thanks!

[@Volksaholic]

@@FromSteelToWood Yeah... I'm not trying to be rain on the parade. There are things I really like about the idea, like that it gives you a long reference surface that's hard to achieve with a bench grinder tool rest. Maybe make a "blade guard" that minimizes the exposed stone. It could even be out of wood or a shatter resistant plastic... just anything to contain the bits if the wheel flings off a chip. I'm tempted to set up something similar but I think I would run perpendicular to the fence/miter slots. That leaves more jigging to build and set up but I think you'd get more surface area of the grinding wheel in contact with the planer blade and wear the face of the stone evenly. It would still give that long reference surface of the table saw to keep my planer knife straight. Thanks for sharing! As background, the reason I always think about grinding wheels coming apart is because 1) I was trained to always make sure the guards were in place on bench grinders to contain the wheel if it breaks, 2) I was trained to tap the wheel to make sure it rings and discard it if it gives a dull sound since that indicates it's probably cracked, and 3) shortly after I was trained to pay attention to that stuff a guy a couple towns south of mine died when a wheel broke apart, fired one chunk into his chest, and he was alone in the shop. I don't have any way of knowing what the condition of his grinding wheel was or what he was doing when it broke... it may have been neglect and carelessness that most of us wouldn't allow to happen... but it made a lasting impression.

[@FromSteelToWood]

@@Volksaholic that is not rain on the parade, that is good advice I like to read. I like to learn from past experience, so I can avoid dangerous situation. I like the idea of a perpendicular jig. That would be easier to manage the grinding wheel wear. Thanks!

[@cherhanamiya1]

Excellent Methodology, Very well thought out. I've not seen any better jig throughout You-tube. I would assume that the width of the blades in each set has to be ground to exact tolerances also ?

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks Robert! Those blades are set into the blade holder with a depth tool. The reference being the cutting edge against the depth tool (Delta planer). So one blade could be very different to the other. I now have a new DeWalt planer and the blades are set by the bolts on the center of the blade. Then it would be important to have them identical. I'll find a way to have it identical one day! Thanks!

[@NoDeadlines]

Thanks! I was looking for good way to do this. I"ll try applying the same principle to my planer blades - and to my printer's guillotine paper cutter blade, too - and save myself $100 plus shipping and down time! Super technique. I learned some useful things by viewing your video!

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks! I am glad it can help you save some money and time!

[@ovidiualba9648]

Excellent video, and demonstration

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@ELW2940]

It would be nice to have a dedicated table saw to perform this function. You could probably pick up an old Craftsman at a yard sale, flea market, or estate sale for $100-150. I have two I picked up, one for $125, the other for $100. I frequently see them and pass them by. One of the old 8” ones with a cast iron top would be ideal because they’re relatively light weight and could be moved on and off a work bench easily, and stored below. Avoid the mess on and in your primary saw. The angle could be set with a set up block cut with your miter saw, as some of the older saws had poor quality gauges, and left set, only to be confirmed each time used, with the set up block. The wheel can stay on the machine. Thanks for the video, it’s got me thinking and planning. Do I hear your dust collector running ? If so, no fear of sparks ?

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks Louis! That is a good idea to have a dedicated table saw for that purpose. Of course the dust collector is not working. It was also disconnected from under the table!

[@ELW2940]

From Steel To Wood Sorry, I heard something running in the background.

[@bryankrick5686]

mind blown . setting this up tomorrow . wow

[@raymondpontremoli2489]

I made a similar blade sharpener only I used a block of HDPE which slides on the table top like butter. I purchased a piece of HDPE 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 18 inches long. I ran it thru my 13 inch planer and flattened one side. I then ran it thru my joiner to make the adjacent side perpendicular. Once that was done I did the other 2 surfaces until I had a perfectly symmetrical/ perpendicular piece. In one side I cut a dado on the table saw 60% of the depth of the blade width. The bottom of the dado is flat so that gives me the registration point so the blade will always bottom out on the dado bottom. On the adjacent wall I drilled and tapped (16) #6-32 UNC-2B threads thru to the dado groove. I used #6-32 UNC-2B cup point set screws in the tapped holes. Those set screws will hold the blade flat and secure. Your Idea is awesome, I just kinda took it the next set and make it a little easier to produce. The block of HDPE cost me $22.00. I will make a video and post it on here for people to see.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Great, the HDPE will be much more friendly with the cast iron table. When you have a video of that, I would be glad to see it! Thanks!

[@50guitar]

That’s good, but how do you ensure that an equal amount of material is removed from each blade? I can see each blade coming out of the jig with varying widths making setting them back in your planet at equal depths of cut difficult b

[@FromSteelToWood]

That is right! That method is good only if the blade depth is set with a jig. Some planers like Dewalt can't use that method. Thanks!

[@allenkoopman1198]

Excellent jig. Are there plans one can use to build this jig? I would like to build it & use it.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Unfortunately, I don't have any! Thanks!

[@twagner6155]

I made my own jig for changing blades with one screw between each tooth and suitable scrap. You could make one with dowels too.

[@sparksfly002]

This guy is a genius

[@twagner6155]

The wheel you used was soft. I would use a silicon carbide wheel, I'm a machinist and really good wheels cost $100 or so but for a home shop I have a 120 grit one that works for me. A 36 grit and 120 grit 6"x1/2" arbor x1/2' for about $11 each on Amazon would work because high speed steel is amazingly hard.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks for the advice!

[@brustar5152]

Very good idea but dressing the wheel again after you set your knife to stone by running the blade back and forth over a stationary stone would be wise, You can always seak up on the wheel after re-dressing using your fence fine adj. setting.

[@GPOutdoors]

Simple and looks like it works great. Thanks Joe. Good video. Cheers!

[@MucaroBoricua]

Thanks for sharing your sharpening method.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks! And I know I could have used a vacuum instead of compressed air. But it does not seem to reach every spots! Thanks for your comment!

[@MucaroBoricua]

Joe Lesage, 😂 I was just joking. Of course you know what a vacuum is, you have multiple and you are a very smart guy. I decided to remove the “joke” after not finding it funny enough, hoping you wouldn’t see it.

[@FromSteelToWood]

I like jokes you know! And I saw the comment before you had a chance to edit it! So it was kinda reversed joke to you! Thanks!

[@lbdeuce]

very smart. id be interested what the delta z is from one side of a planed board to the next would measure with calipers.

[@juginstr1019]

Nice job!.Thank you.

[@cristig243]

I wonder if your grinding stone is qualified for that rotational speed .

[@FromSteelToWood]

The stone is rated for 3820 rpm and the table saw is for 3450 rpm. A good thing to double-check that prior to using!

[@MuhammadUsman-sf3gx]

Good idea ...I'll try the same thank-you

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@regsparkes6507]

Joe, that's a good jig . It seems to do the job, are you happy with the planer's performance after sharpening ?

[@FromSteelToWood]

It is very similar to original blades. But this is based on a cheaper version of a planer and blades anyways (high speed steel, not carbide). Those blades are for other people's use, they have the Delta model. I used to have a Delta planer not long ago before my DeWalt. This is why I can tell they work good. My new planer has 3 blades that needs to be identical, as they have no adjustment. I will find soon a way of sharpening them anyways. I have some ideas in progress for it! Thanks for watching Reg Sparkes!

[@aussiegardenerstore]

Very clever Joe. The blades are pricey so this is a great idea.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@vispieux]

Vraiment une bonne idée, merci !

[@FromSteelToWood]

Oui, mais il faut faire attention de bien lubrifier la table et nettoyer souvent l'huile qui se contamine d'abrasif. Sinon, on risque d'endommager la surface de la table. Pour un usage occasionnel, bien sûr! Merci!

[@chrism8812]

Have you thought of making the jig out of hardwood? I wonder if that would hold it secure enough. This is a great way to sharpen the blades by the way. thanks.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks! Yes I did, but the weight of the steels acts in favor of stability. Also, hardwood is susceptible to dimensional change with moisture gain. So the reason I went for steel. Thanks!

[@stevecarter577]

I saw a wooden jig with cam locks and using saw paper on a table saw wheel. Sorry I lost the site! Sized for both jointer & planer blades.

[@peterkober6758]

Joe never thought you could sharpen on table saw must try that some day God Bless PaK

[@FromSteelToWood]

It's not perfect, but way much better than a dull planer blade! Make sure to use aluminum oxyde. In my understanding, this is the best media to avoid overheating the blade.

[@raymondpontremoli2489]

I ordered a piece of aluminum channel 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 wall. Im going to do the same thing with it I did with the HDPE. Drill and tap one of the sides for set scews. In the back of the channel Im going to tap it for a 1/4-20 thread and put an all thread rod in with a jam nut on the outside. How here is where the trick comes in, I'm a graduate watchmaker and later in life went back to college and became a Mechanical Engineer. In the watchmaking profession you are required to sharpen your lathe tools frequently. There is a piece of equipment out there called a "crocker graver sharpener" go look that up. Im going to use that along with the item described above and those two together I will be able to put a double bevel on all my blades .....By Hand....

[@FromSteelToWood]

Seems like a good idea!

[@cattleNhay]

Sharpening hss best with diamonds or cbn

[@FromSteelToWood]

Good to know! Thanks!

[@raymondpontremoli2489]

I just finished a beautiful design for a table saw fence that is the best I have ever used, if I don't say so myself. I used Thompson Linear Rails and Linear bearings. I move the fence in and out of the blade with a acme threaded shaft and coupling. I also added a Digital Readout on the fence so.....If I want a board width to be 1.625 or 1-5/8 inch....I just turn the handle until it says 1.625 and I cut. I have never seen it miss or go out of square with the blade yet. I used a vernier caliper on a piece of oak and I was withing +/- .005 . I will post a video of that also....

[@FromSteelToWood]

That is a deluxe fence! Well thought!

[@joshbelcher2755]

If you machined a small step into the surface the knife clamps to creating a shoulder parallel to the surface of the jig that slides on the saw fence, it would create a locating surface to bump the knife against. It would eliminate the alignment step and save a lot of time.

[@FromSteelToWood]

That is a good idea. I did not have the tools to do so back then! Thanks!

[@gosen2566]

I like it Joe! Thanks

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks Gosen!

[@user-vz8pb2fk5d]

I use a leaf blower to blow the sawdust out. It works amazing. Takes only a few seconds. I have the same table saw. Am sad general international folded. They made quality woodworking equipment.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Absolutely. If I had an electric leaf blower, that is what I would do!

[@shfaasho]

Quality????????????????? General International was just about the WORST brand of machines out there. NOBODY with experience wants them because they are garbage machines.

[@FromSteelToWood]

What is the brand you prefer?

[@user-vz8pb2fk5d]

@@FromSteelToWood If your just going to use it to blow your saw out I would look at a cheap one. I use a sthil gas powered , my workshop is in my garage outside so I don't have to worry about fumes.

[@JohnRobertBiate]

Nice 👍

[@mikebetts2046]

A little more detail on the construction of the sled would be helpful. Maybe a closer cross sectional view pointing out each component?

[@FromSteelToWood]

Hello, I am sorry I won't be able to share more details about the jig at this moment, as I just moved out of my current house and will move to the new house in a month. Meanwhile, the jig is in a box in storage! Sorry!

[@mikebetts2046]

@@FromSteelToWood ok, thanks for the response. I am thinking of making some sort of jig that I can use on a surface grinder for my jointer blades.

[@Ferndalien]

Grinding a planer or jointer blade with a tablesaw will be hard on the tablesaw. The steel particles and grindstone dust will get into the tablesaw mechanism and continue grinding away, shortening the life of your tablesaw. New planer blades are definitely expensive, but cheaper than a new tablesaw. Otherwise it would be a great technique.

[@FromSteelToWood]

That sums it all! A thorough cleanup is required and even then, one must face the idea of abrasive wear might continue. I've left that video on KZbin, this is idea is either hated or liked... People chose! Thanks!

[@raymondpontremoli2489]

So, I finished the blade holder and it worked exactly as planned. Unfortunately, I do not like sharpening the blades this way. It is way too easy to get the blade hot and then destroy the temper of the material. I made one pass only taking off about .005 and the blade already was starting to show signs of thermal induced tempering. I did finish the set but they have been compromised as far as the hardness. Im going back to the hand sharpening method this way I do not have to worry about tempering problems. Once the blade has lost its temper you either throw it away or re-harden it and then re-temper it. For $35 a set blades....Too much work.....Old School....By Hand... But it is a great video.....

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@rivasnarik]

@@FromSteelToWood I think if you put a water soaked rag inside in touch with blade, it keeps cooling while grinding. Keep soaking after each pass. I would be building this, I have makita grinder, man does it make mess on wet sharpening!!

[@FromSteelToWood]

Could be working, but I am not so much a fan of water on my cast iron table saw! Lol! The idea of taking very quick and small passes is to avoid overheating, by letting the heat to dissipate through the blade. I don't get any blueish color on the blade. However, If I took deep passes (>0.005"), it will go blue.

[@rivasnarik]

@@FromSteelToWood I know what you mean! But with so much oil, I figure lightly water soaked rag inside the channel would be less penetrative into the table, and keep temperature way down. Seems you have to wipe down every time anyways.

[@intheboonies]

Great idea, thank you

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@marksparkplug7758]

I like it Joe! I wonder if you could get a leather wheel for stropping? Thanks, take care

[@FromSteelToWood]

That is a good idea, because the edge is still rough. I could get better results. Thanks for sharing the idea!

[@kimchee94112]

Wish you would show before and finish results on a wood board. 2:09 what is that blade hold down device? 3:17 vibration from saw or camera?

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks for your comment! I wish I could have demonstrated that on a wood board, but the blades I was sharpening were for my brother and it's a Delta planer. Mine is a DeWalt. I think what you mean is the stiffener discs. Otherwise, it's the blade changing tool? See the links below. The vibration is from the belt. This table saw is belt driven and I don't release the tension on the belt between uses. So it develops a memory over a long period not used. I should either remove tension or use a link belt. But the camera is fussy too! Thanks! www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/30075-blade-stiffeners www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/safety/guards/60444-blade-changing-tool www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/30051-link-belt-for-power-tools

[@kimchee94112]

@@FromSteelToWood Didn't know there is a blade changing tool. I use a block of wood or lock jaw pliers. I have link belts on my table saw, band saw and 10" wet saw for cutting granite and tiles. BTW the green belts are much cheaper from Harbor Freight (even without the 20% coupon) then the red ones. I have both, and see no difference and interchangeable. Thanks for the links.

[@FromSteelToWood]

I did the block of wood until it slipped and broke a tooth on a good blade. From that time, I got the blade changing tool!

[@daddywoofdawg]

a couple of questions where did you get the yellow thing and what is it called that you used to remove the saw blade? and can you show more detail of the angle iron jig with some measurements?

[@FromSteelToWood]

Hello, the yellow tool, see link below. Can you write to my e-mail address, so I might share some dimensions with you. My address [e-mail] www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/safety/guards/60444-blade-changing-tool

[@Giokosmik]

Brilliant, this method would great with a cbn wheel that doesn't wear.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thank!

[@GarethDiedericks]

By far one go the best ways I've seen recently. I love the simplicity of the jig without having to set up complicated settings on a jig and that its made with metal and not wood. Not that they're bad - wood jigs, but wood in my opinion is going to be affected by moisture and season I've always thought! This looks easier than some jigs on the market and way cheaper than buying a branded machine/tool for a dedicated task.... Of course safety is a concern and agree patience and competence is crucial! Did you experience any drawbacks (perhaps slight kickback or grinds affected by the jig maybe not tight enough to fence? A friend watching with me wondered about the saw motor being strained by the grinding wheel and possible damage to the arbor if the when has a wobble. Not to meant as criticism at all, I genuinely think this is a fantastic jig and only ask because building one seems easy and wondered if you had issues to trouble shoot. Not all wood workers are engineers. I would also love to have seen a before and after of wood planed and or jointed ( I see it was mentioned in a comment). Five starts Joe Thank you for taking the time! I most defiantly subscribed and look forward to seeing more!

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks Gareth! The only drawback of this method is the wear on the cast iron table. It must be kept well lubricated and cleaned periodically. I discovered after a while. The grit from the grinding wheel mix with the oil and it can be abrasive for the table. A purist woodworker might consider my table saw totaled as the cast iron is no longer the mirror finish where the jig slide. But for my usage, that is no problem. Then the other consideration is to make very small passes. If the grinding wheel takes too much, it will heat the blade and it will lose its temper. I have a diamond stone to straighten the grinding wheel, so it's always perfectly balanced and it does not wobble at all. The way the blade runs against the grinding wheel, the jib does not have any tendency to deviate from the fence, so I did not experience any kickback whatsoever. I don't do much woodworking on my channel at this moment. I did a lot of furniture in the past before I have my YT channel. Thanks for your subscription and your nice comment!

[@brewsterly2927]

@@FromSteelToWood Another problem is different heights/weights of the blades.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks for commenting Bruce. The blade is being clamped into the ±20lbs jig. So the weight of the jig is just enough to maintain the blade against the grinding wheel. But overall, it needs the patience to set properly! Thanks!

[@ardvarkkkkk1]

Gareth Diedericks Gareth Diedericks In addition, all the grinding dust in the insides of your saw will grind everything to a smooth fit, just before it wears out.

[@salemstvmixedvlogs]

Effective procedure

[@twagner6155]

Though ok, I prefer to make my own air gun by threading it to accept American plumbing threads and put a long extension on a gun to save my eyes from all that dust. Works for other stuff.

[@battlinbill1613]

Damn good idea.

[@erniehenshaw4161]

What about the burr of the flat side of the blade after sharpening?

[@FromSteelToWood]

I remove the burr with a utility knife. Seems odd, but it works!

[@erniehenshaw4161]

@@FromSteelToWood Good idea!!

[@leandrovirginello]

you are genious!! fantastic

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@kentyler966]

I wonder too why you didn’t just vacuum the dust our. Bad stuff to inhale. I know this works but lots of rookies with little experience may have problems with this technique.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Ken, there was a good reason for that. I am not a fan of blowing away debris with an air gun. I think you noticed that 4 inches vacuum line coming from the dust collector. It was running while I was blowing air. Most of the dust that I could dislodge went into the dust collector. A ShopVac is not as strong as a 125 psi blow of air to dislodge sawdust in confined areas. Some sawdust might have been sitting there for years in the corners. Over time, it packs. Moreover, it's easier to visually control that no more dust is coming from those crevices, gaps, blind holes, etc. Thanks!

[@peterwill3699]

Hi Joe,not so much the wheel but how well made your saw is,bearnings and key way fit would be a big factor.But a excellent alternative for a resharpeing.With all the projects you build do you see a machine tool like a bridgeport or lathe in your future?

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks for your comment! You bet I've got project! I've got a geared head milling machine last fall that I will start using next summer. As of now, the tractor takes all available room in my garage!

[@regsparkes6507]

Have you thought about building a garage specifically for your tractor?

[@FromSteelToWood]

Actually, I am planning on building a car port next to my garage so it can stay outside, but yet protected against elements in winter time. I might need a block heater. But it would allow me to continue working clear of obstacle in winter!

[@regsparkes6507]

You and I have similar interests and hobbies, so that is what I was thinking. The Tractor out of your 'shop' would certainly give you a lot more open floor space, and the tractor under a 'car port' would benefit by having a block heater installed, maybe even one for the transmission too , to keep the hydraulic fluid warm.

[@FromSteelToWood]

On my tractor, the hydraulic fluid is in the torque tube, where there is the High-Drive-Low range gears. So it warms up easily when moving the tractor. There is the differential and transmission that has it's own oil. So I think I would be good for a simple block heater. We will see next year!

[@kobudoka1165]

Wow ... you made it almost like profi sharpener.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!

[@acerjuglans383]

Hey, somebody has the same saw as me! Oops, I was wrong. Yours is a right-tilt.

[@whirled_peas]

Nylon between the jig and the table, can see scratches being left. Also it'll be depositing small amounts of molten steel on your tabletop and internals, not good for mechanism health!

[@FromSteelToWood]

You are right. Good observation. This is creating wear on the surface of the table and not suitable for regular use. I do that every other year for my purpose and clean the machine after that. So to say, at this pace, this table saw will last for my whole life anyways... Thanks for your comment!

[@whirled_peas]

Can get small blocks of nylon on ebay for nothing. Also, nice to see a double trunnion contractor saw. Haven't seen inside of many saws but fairly sure that's a feature reserved for larger cabinet saws. I have an old startrite (UK manufacturer) and having issues with it because it's the whole cast iron blade tilt and height mechanism is hanging on a single trunnion! Cast iron construction is nice but not when it's half-baked!

[@scor440]

Twice as much work next time use a shop vac also regrind at 40 deg give the edge more support and clearance will still be ok

[@daniellespooner1975]

Joe, do u remember me?

[@FromSteelToWood]

No? Should I?

[@daniellespooner1975]

Joe Lesage did u ever live in Albuquerque?

[@FromSteelToWood]

No! I must have a clone then!

[@daniellespooner1975]

Joe Lesage ya he lives in Toledo now

[@FromSteelToWood]

Lol! BTW I live in Canada.

[@damasito11]

thanks for shaing

[@walterrider9600]

thank you

[@FromSteelToWood]

You are welcome!

[@hubnz]

Like the the idea and have some suggestion: Keep the table dry as the oil traps all the stuff coming off the grinding wheel. Put thin polymer strips on the underside of your angle iron (no PTFE as it will embed the dirt) Build a minimum clearance plate so the dirt doesn't get down into the saw spindle, may combine that with a shop vac nozzle Finally you may have the wrong grinder disk, wear that strong is a sign that it is either not spinning fast enough, or more likely too soft ( used for much harder steels) I would try this one www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/product/prosand-3sg-ca-type-01-bench-and-pedestal-wheel.

[@raymondpontremoli2489]

Plus the grinding grit all over the table saw, I just can't handle.....I spent 4 hours cleaning all that up....Never again.

[@FromSteelToWood]

You are right, the grit is one major downside of it!

[@shfaasho]

I have done a quick browse through some of the comments here and I can honestly say that either you have an astounding amount of sycophants following you or you are deleting the vast majority of posts from experienced wood workers telling just how insane this thing is. Considering how few comments there are for how long this has been online I would say that you are deleting hundreds if not more.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Haven't deleted any up to now. That is your opinion. How do you sharpen your blades?

[@stankolodin5586]

Cool idea, seems inefficient

[@ardvarkkkkk1]

This would be a good thing to do with someone else's table saw.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Or maybe a dedicated table for that purpose! It's definitely not for a daily sharpening purpose I must admit!

[@hieronimopicz1285]

+Zly sposog ostrzenia na tym kamieniu.bo kamien sie wyciera krzywo i norz jest tepiony wytartym rowkiem w kamieniu...

[@FromSteelToWood]

Good point Hieronim. This is why I have to move the blade from one spot to the other on the blade and make sure I don't end up with a rounded edge! (Google Translate) Dobry punkt Hieronim. Właśnie dlatego muszę przenosić ostrze z jednego miejsca do drugiego na ostrzu i upewnić się, że nie otrzymam zaokrąglonej krawędzi!

[@andrzej417]

Jest to sposób ostrzenia bardzo nieprawidłowy !!! i niebezpieczny. Nie polecam , a wręcz odradzam.

[@asgerjrgensen1414]

That is in several ways a VERY bad idea!!!! 1. The circular saw is not protected against grinding dust, that can ruin spindle and bearings. 2. When you use the edge of the stone along its rotation you right away make a small grove that ruins you angle setup. 2. The blade gets hot on the edge, when you machine it without water, which makes it curve slightly, giving you a slightly curved result

[@FromSteelToWood]

You are right on all points. But I don't do that every day either. In my case, that was it or nothing...

[@WilmerAlvarado944]

Please don't follow this method of sharpening , is too unsafe and high speed damage the blades !!!! Tormek is the best equipement for sharpening.

[@JohnDoe-lr6eo]

Sorry but nope. You are wearing your table down on your saw, the edge is far from what I would call “sharp”, and your grind is parallel to the length of the blade. 😔

[@FromSteelToWood]

That is a honest comment John! You are right, repeated use would wear down my table. And this is not as perfect as the original sharpening. I can only say it works just fine for my use. Thanks!

[@lesstime1678]

110 hours to setup a stupid thing,,,,,,,

[@waynetollison3952]

No safety glasses when when blowing the saw off that's a no no.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Oops! You are right! I wear safety gear while I work. Can't figure why I did not have it at that moment. Sorry.

[@ELW2940]

LVRider OSHA inspector. Busted !

[@КостяРыкав]

Надо тарельчатым алмазным кругом затачивать, а подводить лезвие к тарелке (заточному кругу) можно рычагом подъема пилы, а не продвижкой зажимки лезвия к кругу...Если непонятно, напишите, постараюсь объяснить подробнее....ри такой заточке как у вас будет необходимость в частой правке камня...

[@jimsimitzis8754]

Nice job!.Thank you.

[@FromSteelToWood]

Thanks!