3D Printed DRO Mount for Lathe - Carriage and Next Steps

STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
Black PA6-CF: us.store.bambu...
6061 Aluminum Plate: amzn.to/3w0K2P7
920MM 5UM Scale for Carriage: amzn.to/3TE6XHR
170MM 1UM Scale for Cross Slide: www.ebay.com/i...
Neptune 4 Max Review and Fixes: • Neptune 4 Max Review a...
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
functional
print
fpf
aluminum
milling
lathe
cross slide
carriage
SINO
glass scales
PM1440GT
precision matthew
1440
touchdro

[@kmccontube]

Keep in mind that PA and moisture don’t get along well. The CF will help, but it is something to consider. PCCF maybe a better option.

[@karljackson9523]

O.4 nozzle caught me out too. Don't apologise for the machining, great content and would be happy to see more. What I really enjoy most is your thought process and how you solve problems. Aways look forward to Fridays (Saturday here in the UK 😅) Keep up the good work!

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

thank you!

[@NWGR]

I knew I'd be printing carbon fiber PETG on my bambu a1 mini so I ordered a .6 hardened nozzle with it, and it's been printing beautifully. No clogs or anything. I love the color of the gigabenchy. Awesome print lol

[@cjs_hobbies]

Showing milling and 3D printing are complementary to each other when it comes to prototyping.

[@kazolar]

If you want best rigidity and no creep issues, go with PC-CF -- I've been printing with 3DXTech brand (not as cheap as some others but is really great), it doesn't have the moisture issue and it printed fine with the 0.4 e3d High Flow ObXidian on the bambu with no issues, and I've used it with a 0.4 slice GammaMaster nozzle on my voron with no problems as well. It's incredibly rigid, and super strong.

[@Muz994]

To be honest I've printed with a few filaments, and Nylon is by far the one which suffers the most from creep. I stopped using PA12-CF from polymaker (180€/kg) for that reason. Screws kept coming loose.

[@makingwithm]

Keep doing these types of videos. Right now I'm really into 3d printing but I love seeing machining stuff too. It makes me want to explore other options. I don't think your channel needs to be just about 3d printing.

[@dblphotography]

I think using 3D printing for prototyping whether or not the finish product is 3d printed is right in line with your channel and enjoy watching the process. Thanks for sharing your thought processes and results.

[@JernD]

Totally agree with this, I don't have any of these metal machines but it is undeniable that 3d printing can't be used everywhere. The prototyping is so interesting and valuable!

[@NorgenSolutionsLLC]

taulman cf nylon, alloy 910 or 3dx cf petg. 0.6mm nozzle or bigger

[@stuartandrews8161]

The machining related content is what I like about this channel. Keep it rolling

[@Heiserton]

I feel ya man. I print primarily in PA12-CF, PAHT-CF, PET-CF and PC/PC-CF. It’s spendy lol. Give PET-CF a try, very moisture resistant, very stiff and has high thermal resistance.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

tried to order some and it's out of stock :(

[@stevendunn264]

That benchy is nearly a functional print...

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

if only it was there in Baltimore at the right time. . .

[@3dPrintingMillennial]

This is ridiculous. The cost of plastic should be miniscule yet filament keeps rising. Definitely gouged.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

it looks like they do put quite a bit of CF fill in at least (compared to other manufacturers)

[@billdoodson4232]

I'm unsure why you have put the scale so low down on the bed. Looking at it, it could have been far closer to the carriage, which would mean far less flex in parts.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

It's as high as it can be. It's a gap-bed lathe. Any higher and it would block removal of the gap unfortunately. This is why you generally see them down that low relative to the rest of the bed.

[@billdoodson4232]

@@FunctionalPrintFriday Ah, that makes total sense. If I'd looked harder, I might have realised. My own lathe is a none gap bed.

[@GordLamb]

I've personally settled on 0.6mm as the best general nozzle size. Feeds CF filaments beautifully, prints fast, and there are very few functional, mechanical parts that need more resolution, in my experience. If high resolution is needed I print at 0.15mm layer height, 0.5mm width, but for the mostpart it's 0.25mm height, 0.62mm width and everything comes out strong, tough, and looking "good enough."

[@chrismay2298]

Yep. I don't even feel like it's settling at all. All benefit unless you're doing high resolution models.

[@75keg75]

You missed a trick on the benchy you could have used a banana for scale. (? Because ISO banana’s ) haha Does it float properly?

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

likely does not :(

[@mikejackson9585]

It's been said at least once in the comments, but using a Nylon for anything that will be near moisture could ba an issue. Honestly, the PAHT CF (PA12) would have been a better choice. It's formulated to better hold up to moisture. It's a little less stiff, but with PA's, stiffness chasing is fool's gold when moisture is in the equation. PA's get down right weak when saturated. The PAHT CF is about 2-3 times better with moisture than a stiffer PA6 CF. Test by putting you print fails in the coolant. I think you'll be surprised how much flex is introduced. But I do think PAHT CF would have been OK. As well, I've printed my PAHT CF just fine with the hardened 0.4mm nozzle. It's the best CF infused filament I've ever used. To be honest, if I were doing what you are doing, I would have probably chosen the PET CF. It's about 4x better with moisture than the PA6 CF and plenty stiff.

[@heidi5942]

I love watching metal machining as well as 3D printing 😊

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

me too!

[@jasenolan7357]

I'd recommend trying some Prusament PCCF. I run this in lots of places in the shop. Make sure you use a hardened steel nozzle; but the resultant parts look fantastic, are dimensionally stable, withstand compressive forces like in the case of your bracket. Nylon is good, but I've had much better results with Polycarbonate carbon fiber.

[@kesor6]

You can of course also order an aluminum piece for the same $80 from one of the chinese fabs every youtuber keeps advertising.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

I did actually consider this, and may still. The same two are emailing we WEEKLY wanting to sponsor the channel.

[@chrismay2298]

There's not much reason to use a .4 nozzle on a modern machine. .6 should really be standard unless you're going for high detail.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

I look forward to comparing

[@DK-vx1zc]

Excellent! Enjoyable and educational. Thanks for sharing

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@vsijben]

For this type of parts, I use Bambulab PLA-CF with a 0,4mm hardened nozzle (I have a X1E which is essentially a X1C). PLA-CF is still very affordable, but gives a rigid and dimensionally stable 3D-print and a smooth satin gloss surface. My latest product with PLA-CF is a set of soft jaws for a workbench vise. If you have problems with a specific material like PA-CF, you should spend some time on calibration (speed, flow, temperature, etc).

[@darkwinter7395]

Interesting... I've been printing a bunch of TINMORRY PETG-CF with the stock 0.4mm bimetal nozzle that came on my Q1 Pro; with no issues. Being a lower-cost CF filiment, it might have less CF in it, or be a shorter fiber length?

[@RB-yq7qv]

[@Hilmi12]

I would flip the entire scale upside down so that the read head is higher up

[@steveh8724]

But then it would be open along the top edge. On a lathe with chips, cutting oil, coolant, & etc that's NO BUENO.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

slot for read-head has to point down on machining tools, otherwise the swarf gets in and ruins it quickly

[@Somun-a]

For the spacers, you may get away with acetal copolymer. They are easy to machine, reasonably priced and pretty tough.

[@ambercutler1482]

You should let me paint the Benchy for FPF

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

But I like the blue! I feel like that shade of blue is the universal color for "I 3d-printed this"

[@iSeeAmbie]

@@FunctionalPrintFridayThe little one!

[@75keg75]

8:30 add a rib or web - if going for 3d printed do a fusion finite element analysis then set thickness to achieve the deflection you want. If aluminum you could add a 3d printed stiffener via glue and bolts.. again fo the FEA to control deflection. But as it’s hanging down behind with no risk of leaning on the plate it should be fine.

[@JernD]

Great video!

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Thanks!

[@dumbdesigns4941]

First

[@michaelgleason4791]

First