furniture from this?

[@UrbanShopWorks]

Creating your own soundtrack is next level!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Haha thanks Preston :)

[@andreaslindmark2928]

@@TheSwedishMaker Yeah, very nice song ;o)

[@crazynthree]

Agreed

[@shaussta1359]

You are a multi talent!

[@karlsparmann1881]

I would insert a large diameter aluminum tube in the threaded part, should make it hold much better.

[@tylerpestell]

I was thinking the same or just one of the dowels he was using…. The infill on that screw print is just not sturdy enough.

[@ahimanta]

He also can split the center part in two, and printer in the strong direction, even add a hole in the center part to make more walls will increase how strong the part is, beside that, is pretty owasemo how strong it is

[@phlerpen]

Adding supports inside 3D print are almost necessary for parts that will really be used. You just have to make sure you don’t create new weak points. He could also use a stronger material like PPA CF… much more expensive though.

[@brandb16]

Came here to recommend the same thing, but just the dowels. The wood should be strong enough at that diameter to hold quite well

[@Akenoomokoto]

@@brandb16 I rather preffer to use a wood Dowel than an aluminium tube in this case, it would support way more weight.

[@Rayuaz]

You should keep in mind the orientation of the layer lines: the parts are weaker along the layer lines (just like wood is weaker along the grain).

[@Smokinjoewhite]

Yeah I always thought of it like wood in that way. Orientation makes a huge difference when it comes to strength. Also print slower, with slight over extrusion (experiment with values) and lower or even completely disable cooing depending on the part and you get closer to isotropy. I noticed with printing PETG I could get extremely good layer adhesion printing with around 120-130% flow rate over my normal "accurate" flow rate. For parts that need strength the slight loss in accuracy is minimal and you get the added benefit of near perfect transparency when printing transparent PETG. I haven't tried with other materials but I feel that the more transparent a print is, the less gaps you have (when using a transparent material, of course) and the closer to isotropic properties it will be.

[@tinkercavedweller]

The little tune is just hilarious! I almost spilled my coffee!🤣🤣🤣 great video as always!

[@JesperMakes]

Hey thank you for the shout out 😂. And I love the pallet wood song ❤❤

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks Jesper! I need to make more songs 😃

[@JesperMakes]

@@TheSwedishMaker many many more

[@b5a5m5]

If the threaded part breaks, I would recommend putting a wooden dowel through the center of it for reinforcement on the replacement print. Or even use a threaded wooden dowel like you made previously!

[@iainrutherford184]

I think its a beautiful piece of furniture. Pallet wood and 3D printed parts in perfect harmony (please read in a British accent 😊).

[@keinschwein8467]

If the printed thread (on the rod) holds up, you could always just print the thing hollow and reinforce it with a wooden dowel for stiffness. Not sure that solves any problem (as you already know how to make perfectly fine threaded wooden dowels), but, you know ... options, mix and match, horses for courses and all that stuff. Great song!

[@OutsiderDreams]

Great video as usual. One idea to rove some of the wobble in the threaded 3d printed part if the chair is to pretension that portion in compression. You can use a piece of metal threaded rod (internally and hidden) with 2 washers and 2 nuts to compress the 3d printed part.

[@turcmic]

@jespermakes and yourself are the greatest storytellers out there! And now, you sing too! So cool!

[@No1projects]

Very enjoyable video. I've had a fascination with woodwork and 3d printing for some time now ,despite still not having a printer myself. I'd love to see it combined with traditional woodworking techniques such as dovetails 🙂

[@nhchiu]

I have two ideas about the stool: 1. As some people already mentioned, insert a solid tube or dowel in the threaded part to prevent the wobble. (And should also save some print time.) 2. Add an additional printed nut on the threaded part (above the base). So when you adjust the stool to the right height, you can lock the nut snug against the lower base and it should hold the thread from spinning when you are sitting on it.

[@alfonsoPina]

I use a lot of pallets for my projects. I also have a "Pallet Buster" but mine is a bit different than yours. I still have some of the same issues you do (width being the biggest). However, just like you, the only reason I like pallets is they are free. I think your commentary on this we excellent. I enjoyed it!!

[@espjason]

Nice video, de nice to see how it holds up overtime. I think its a great prototype. And will encourage discussion around the subject at hand

[@FFS__Dave]

I’m new to your channel but I’m glad I found you. Your humour is definitely on my level. On the subject of adding strength to a larger 3D printed object, I would, for the threaded part, consider two options (both are basically the same operation). Where extra strength is needed I tend to turn large threaded parts into threaded tubes. The extra walls increase tensile strength while reducing material. If that doesn’t work, a rod can be fitted into the tube (provided you have accounted for the diameter in the design). In some parts, I will incorporate voids into solid areas just to get the wall count up if I don’t want something to crush easily. Just some ideas. You can ignore them or use them. I really don’t mind. Looking forward to your next project. Thank you. ❤

[@Marsumaniac79]

I have seen lots of videos of US makers that had pallets of various hardwoods, but here in germany all I ever got was various softwoods. And most of the time, euro-pallets aren't even free, because there is a big deposit on these things to keep them in circulation. When you get them for free, most of the time they are near their end of live, half rotten and falling apart. All things considered, pallet wood is only worth it if you have a source for disposable pallets (for me it was a local mini-mart) and more time than money. It is a lot of work for mostly crappy wood.

[@azakusilov]

Same in Ukraine. Tried to get some pallets for my workshop because friends who seen online how people use them to make loft-style couches suggested to do the same, but then realized that no one giving away good one for free, and they reuse them until they are garbage. Only pallet that I was able to find for free was all rotten. I ended up just buying proper wood and making pallet-like makeshift furniture myself.

[@mancavefire]

Forget that guy! I printed the USSA side tables (the one with the dowels) in PETG and they've been used outdoors for a while now with zero issues. Still loving your combination of 3D printing, wood working , CNC etc. I would have lasered your makers mark on the top of that seat to get the full suite of maker tech in. Keep it up, maybe not on the singing!

[@Sno7373anon]

I loved the jingle keep doing you buddy

[@knobbymcfeck]

Damn, that pallet wood looked nice at the end! And seeing as everyone's chiming in: you could try put a long bolt through middle the plastic threaded part, and tighten it on both ends, so that the compression keeps it together better, might help with the wobbling? Or might just crush the print, who knows! Tack som alltid

[@toastrecon]

You know what would be cool? Make it more stable by making three "screw posts" in a triangular arrangement to support the seat. Have the posts geared at the bottom and make a kind of planetary arrangement with a drive gear so that you can raise and lower all three at once.

[@nathaniellangston5130]

I don't know if that threaded section is the strongest way to use the 3D printer in your furniture because of layer lines in that print orientation and then the root of the external thread being a stress riser. But I definitely think 3D printing has a place in furniture making just like any plastic is used in making all furniture. I think if you had the X1 carbon or an enclosed version of the Bambu labs printer so you could print with the really high strength stuff you could probably get away with your current design indefinitely without ever having to worry about it breaking or being wobbly. Great video! Next level sound tracks really set KZbin videos apart!

[@LipSkid77]

Thank you for your content. I was thinking about your wobble that you mention near the end. You may want to use an Acme Thread profile rather than the V shaped profile it appears you have used. That should give the thread more bearing surface to sit on and reduce wobble. It may also reduce your print times and materials used. I also watched your Wood Thread making video. To make the acme form in wood I'm sure there would be a cutter to do the trick.

[@AerialWaviator]

The engineer in me was left curious as to the wobble being from treads flexing (narrow region along spiral making contact), or the due to the long screw being at a higher height and bending? Other comments think it's bending, as are suggesting an insert. Does it still flex the same way at low height adjustment? One possibility is a design element that functions as a locknut, setting the minimum adjustment heigh, and adding extra set of thread contact points further up in the vertical dimension. Note with 3d printed threads, the both thread elements don't need to be continuous spiral, one surface can have gaps, or a pattern that doesn't look like a thread. (eg: like a thread tap, but could be more complex and non-symmetrical) IMO a bit of flex is a softness comfort factor, as stool gives a bit depending on body posture. BTW: a textured surface can be added to prints, it just adds more time when printing. From a design perspective, used wisely it offers new opportunities in how parts appear when finished. Looking forward to seeing how you experiment with a hybrid mix of plastic and wood in future designs. Most designers tend to stick to one, or the other. Another possibility to explore is printing tooling jigs.

[@Bearded-Viking-WoodWorks]

Omg !! Why am I just now finding your channel !! 🎉🎉🎉🎉 love it brother ! Skål 🫡

[@ianallen2]

Get the right pallets and they are made with hard wood. Some have lovely colour running through them. There are lots of furniture masde with pallet wood. Some people make bed side tables / cupboasrds, tables, wall hung cupboards, coffee tables benches etc from pallet wood. 3D printed items could also be inserted and put into furniture. Depends on the 3d printer filament used as to the strength.

[@glynprice3815]

Excellent work, as ever.

[@Kaiser_257]

Print the threaded part in a harizontal direction. Just fllat a small part of one side of the thread for good contact with the bed and no support needed. Slice it with 5 walls and triangular infill (30% is enough ) it will become much stronger

[@misiekroz]

Love your videos! And that song 😄 I have background in more engineering related 3D printing - its so inspiring to see people use it in so many different ways

[@fernandoviera8583]

for improove your design resistence, must have to put a stick in the center of the thread part. So, the 3d print brings you the thread and the center wood stick, give you the strength. Because, the filament are working in the same plane of the threat cut direction, and it will break.

[@mmatja]

Looks cool. The slight wobble might in fact be a property of the material itself, not impacting the longevity (dunno, never printed such big objects). If so -it might actually be a feature, not a bug :)

[@lrbrad4d]

Lengthen the dowels, which whichwould shorten the exposed threads on the seat. Less wobble. Love your vids. ❤

[@ingGS]

I absolutely love your humor and style! 😂😂😂

[@gooseman247]

Methyl Bromide is used in container/container content fumigation to kill bugs and similar things. After fumigation, the containers are aired out for day, but they're good to go after that. You can't export pallets out of AU/NZ if the don't have the ISPM15 stamp to say they've been heat treated. If they don't have it, and the client can't repack, they are fumigated, aired and then stamped to say as such - ready for export

[@2hlix]

Big fan of my Bambu printer. And also like adaptive cubic infill for a lot of my parts. If you leave hole in the center of your big plastic threaded cylindee for a simple metal threaded rod to reinforce it you'll get rid of that wobble. There is a lot of torque on that part.

Love your videoes! A question: is there a standard "thread how to" that one can follow when creating threads?

[@gpdewitt]

Design the post around an old steel pipe? There's plenty of it lying around most places. It's the threads you're after anyway. Pallet wood is "free" only if you don't count your labor hours. Poplar can be beautiful, or even maple and both are reasonably cheap.

[@azakusilov]

In my country the pallets that you can get for free are only those that was used for transporting stuff for years, and they are all dirty, broken, soaked in all kind of stuff. And even in your case, with pallets in better shape, you needed a lot of work to make them into proper wood. So it's like those videos with dude who makes alcohol from toilet paper. i.e. with a lot of work, skill and tools you can make furniture from anything, from any garbage, but is it worth it? Maybe only as a challenge. P.S. And of course you can use 3D-printing to make furniture, you can use 3D-printing anywhere where it's useful, it's a general purpose tool, nothing in the idea of 3D-printing say it cannot be used in some craft. One can say that 3D-printing can't be used in some very specific case, like "you can't use PLA to make a rocket engine nozzle", but claim broadly like "you can't use 3D-printing in building rockets" - is stupid, because you can definitely find some case where you can apply it there =) and same with any other craft =)

[@vfxsoup]

My grandfather taught me to save things. So since a young lad I’ve been saving all the nail holes in wood that I found. Not sure when I will have enough to make something.

[@goilo888]

Is that the same grandfather that had you run to the hardware store to buy a tin of elbow grease?

[@sampirat]

have you concidered a fire maybe ?

[@peternickerson2911]

very cool.... but there is a but :( I think it's cool, but for high end furniture I don't think plastic should be used for structural parts, or at least visible parts. But that doesn't change the fact the 3D printing is an incredibly helpful prototyping tool.

[@tayet6875]

That song was so lovely!

[@Tropaxseli]

You should cast the bottom part of the 3d printed part in aluminum or even better looking bras. The threaded base culd also been made if the same material but machineing would bee needed. Maby the easiest way would to take parts from a adjustable legg from scaffolding.

[@GoingShirtless]

Print the screw hollow and add a wood dowel for core support.

[@Marksikt_Sweden]

Very nice design, by the way!

[@plugwithapug]

I'm loving this new spark in your video, this was a fun one to watch!

[@tonikaic6695]

Excellent video, love to see your progress🎉🎉

[@c.a.chambers68]

I love it - it looks fantastic in the white Rubio with the black 👍🏻😃

[@TheSwedishMaker]

thanks! Yes - I was a bit surprised with the way the pallet wood looked in the end :)

[@crowguy506]

Maybe worth mentioning that EU pallets are not actually free. They’re worth a deposit. One way pallets are though. Nice work.

[@Wol333]

Internal crush ribs would have made the fitting process easier. They'd allow you to have some wiggle room with tolerances.

[@CaddoCreekWoodworks]

Oh man, the song was epic! Great video too!

[@scaredyfish]

I have a project in mind, but I can’t really afford to buy a bunch of power tools, but I do have a 3d printer so I’m interested in just how far 3d printed parts can be pushed to avoid needing more than simple hand tools for the wooden parts.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Me too! I will definately try more of this

[@jasonhunt7382]

It depends on where the pallets come from. I have a friend the works at a place where they sell machinery. Most of their pallets are some exotic African hardwood that I could never afford to buy.

[@DanRaines]

😂 that was a an entertaining video. It is fun watching your creative journey. Thank you!

[@ryanamey5024]

What a fantastic posture, that chair for sure is helping

[@MrHuggaga]

reinforce the spindle piece with another dowel glued inside, that should fix the wobble..

[@markfrancis4756]

Brilliant story. Thankyou

[@cyanophage4351]

When designing something to fit around something else always model the something else first. Then model around it. That way you won't fuck up as hard as you did

[@HeliRy]

Am I the only one who suddenly wants a collaboration video with you and Jesper? And mean heck, you’re practically neighbours lol 🤘

[@tulio3dprint]

deberias hacer un curso de usar el calibre porque para gastar filamento por errores eso es perdida de tiempo

[@Tom_H]

Nice work. In future, I'd recommend avoiding toxic comments. 😉

[@j.hankinson7803]

Thanks for posting. This is a great concept but I just prefer all wood. You and the troll both have good points to make but in the end the creator of an item is always right and what trolls think doesn’t matter.

[@Smokinjoewhite]

Well, I was already seriously considering hitting subscribe and then the pallet song hit and cemented the deal.

[@FrankMontano]

Instant sub!👍 I really need to look into the A1. I have yet to print with filament but how hard could it be🤷‍♂️

[@Hog-g2z]

Good Day 🌅 nice job, the overall design looks good, next time make it all out of wood, on your CNC if it is big enough, from France.

[@foldionepapyrus3441]

Any tube that long will flex a bit under a persons weight, and threads without huge engagement also tend to be wobbly, and in plastics that tend towards bendy elastic in nature its bound to be noticeable. I doubt you'll have any issues with it for a long time though it doesn't look like it is flexing near the limit. Be worth screwing it down almost as far as it goes and seeing if that takes out all the apparent flex - then you will know its mostly if not entirely in the threaded tube section and can add a stiffener if you want to. And if screwing so low down doesn't make any difference to the feel at all then you know its your thread clearances that that too loose. It may well be a bit of both.

[@laramieist]

If you make the screw thicker or add some guide rods to keep to straight it will not wobble

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

I have to say the mix of wood and print does look great

[@stumcconnel]

The Palletwood Shanty was an excellent decision, loved it

[@Staroy]

How is your english so good? Is that the general level in sweden or did you work abroad?

[@milt8697]

Looks good man , Always enjoy your videos

[@davemcgahhey]

Love the pallet song!

[@JonLimitless]

I have a question on the dowels not fitting in the 3D prints. If they are off just slightly, why not sand the dowel some to fit?

[@FelipeLavratti]

Beautiful voice and stool!

[@Yash-c3v]

Do some 'lost PLA casting' to make the threads out of metal... or something

[@diggidan]

Sången var ju fantastisk! :D Du kunde kanske modellerat en m12-gänga i mitten av din stora gänga och dragit i en gängstång? Då borde det blivit mer stadigt och det hade nog inte tagit längre tid att printa. Dessutom hade man fått mer walls på printet vilket i sig styvar upp det. Mycket bra produktion, både möbel och video!

[@HawkXe]

Great video as always! What CNC model are you using?

[@Pipeliro]

Hi, let me start by saying that I love your content and this is an amazing project About the infill, I've been printing for a couple of years now and find that adaptive isn't a good choice for structural strength but let me know your thoughts about the difference in strength on different infill

[@andreacook7431]

I'm surprised you went so low on the infill. I've been doing 80-100% for things like hand tools. I'd be worried about durability.

[@StephenBoyd21]

Maybe another dowel inside the central section would reduce wobble.

[@WyldewoodCrafts]

Great video! Can we expect more cameos from the songbird in upcoming features? And about the stool - did you think about flexing some Carbon Fiber Reinforced PETG muscles for that extra oomph in tensile strength, or was it just a classic case of 'out of sight, out of stock'? Keep us posted on whether it stands the test of time... and your testing regime!

[@christyler1647]

LOL I appreciate your humor.

[@christyler1647]

I use Fusion 360 and my printer to print PCBs in PLA. This lets me test fit electronic components before sending the final Gerber files off to Hong Kong for fabrication.

[@BruceChastain]

seriously had me lol with that song in the middle of the video.

[@Rozbujnik_Rumcajs]

Make hole throughout entire threaded shaft and seat and glue in wooden spine made out of the same dowel as legs.

[@nallepuhu95]

i work with palets both reparing and put them together and no thay are not toxic at all.

[@Rufio1975]

Yea I forget who but someone made a video dispelling all of that.

[@anoukk_]

I think the only thing I would change is the material of the screw because it just seems a lil too fragile to carry that much weight on such a small diameter

[@juliankoenig]

THanks for this nice Video!

[@jimgeelan5949]

Brilliant 😊

[@dool3y]

Snart 100 000 följare! Stort grattis du förtjänar det :D

[@jonscott1948]

The stool looks great and if you need something stronger the new PPA-CF looks amazing although pretty expensive for the amount needed on this project

[@JacobMidwest-de2sr]

PPA needs an enclosure to print, in which case there are many other polymers that could work.

[@HawkXe]

I was about to mention that as well until I saw your comment. That filament can handle the weight of a car!

[@ahamedkhan232]

USSA Design mentioned!

[@Yash-c3v]

wait so do HT pallets have MB in them or not?

[@therick0996]

Spite is the best motivator

[@martinm9877]

This is a compliment!!! You look like Rhett from Rhett&Link went to IKEA.

[@tavarisjones551]

I would not trust those plastic threads AT ALL... Best case scenario, they will strip. Worse case, it breaks and someone gets hurt. Also stick with gyroid infill for any 3d printed parts that require strength. Have you considered a much coarser pitch with chunkier threads?

[@Hog-g2z]

By the way the song was all right, but don’t give up your day job, 😂😂😂, and if you don’t sharpen your blades you will do damage to your motor, as you are putting unnecessary pressure on your motor, be safe, stay sharp, or be in the dark, 😂, from France.

[@maartjevancaspel]

Love the song! 💃

[@YuriNGolfeto]

Man, I think if you were going to use the wood without the nail holes, you could have just cut them with a manual circular saw and then done all the preparation work, but dismantling a pallet is always an experience, good or bad, it's an experience.

[@syriuszb8611]

Pallet wood is pristine clean compared to railway beams. I would be weary of pallet wood, but I think the bigger danger comes from working on them, not using, maybe it would be enough to apply some sealing finish to minimalise any potential off gassing. Not only the stuff they used to treat it, but also any junk it could gather during the use. 3d printing is just a tool, it all depends on use, design and technique. I don't like the 3d parts finish, so I wouldn't use raw 3d print on design surface, but I certainly see 3d printing have use in furniture making overall. I don't think I would trust them with structural things without at least safety margin of 3. Your design, I don't know, with the wobbly screw, I wouldn't send it to that guy at least ;-).

[@Steelhamerhands]

A scaffold jack probably costs less than the filiment you used, maybe just print a more comfortable seat.

[@alexey_sychev]

Hey, I see new 4040-Pro Max! Any plans to make a review? Nice project!

[@Odwalla_YT]

Giving Tallest Man on Earth a run for his money my guy, wicked video, love watching your processes.

[@dcmotive]

The pallets around here are hardwood and sometimes oak.