3D printed, Hand painted Catan game

[@retepetete1034]

actually iam doing this as a christmas present for my parents this year but iam using a resin printer due to the higher quality of the prints. im really happy so far :D thanks for sharing ur experiences and happy settling ;D

[@lester44444]

haha I love when you rotate the tiles in your hands, looks like a video game :P so smooth

[@danielschulter7182]

One of the best things I've seen all month. Be sure to upload more videos.

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Thanks!

[@LinkChenTW]

Nice!! I didn't want to make a catan game, but your magnet tutorial inspired me, I guess one day I will make something with magnet. Really thanks!!!

[@jeffharris2741]

I thoroughly enjoyed watching this video! You did an AMAZING JOB in creating your 3D printed CATAN game! I actually purchased CATAN 3D Edition because I felt intimidated by the thought of undertaking the project myself, but your video showed me that all it takes is the right equipment and supplies, the right STL files, the right frame of mind, and time to get it done! Your video is inspiring (even 3 years later)! Thanks for uploading it to KZbin and I'll be sure to check out your other videos to see what else you've been up to! Thanks!

[@JoshuaHaasua]

Explode into 37 pieces. Haha, we all know a friend like that.

[@fortissimoX]

You asked a comment if we think you could have done something better / different. Well, here is one thought. I think that it would have been easier if you've used white PLA for printing. Then you wouldn't have to paint everything to white. Maybe you wouldn't even need primer at all, but well, that depends on the colors used for painting I guess. So, that is just one idea to make project at least a bit simpler. All in all, you did great job, congratulations! :-)

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Hi Bass Man, Thanks for the suggestion. I did some preliminary tests on the PLA which I am printing with. It has a very glossy finish and the paint just didn't want to stick to it very well. Therefore priming was a necessity for me. The choice of black then was easy since it makes it easy to see if you have missed some spots with the white primer :-). further more, the spots where your primer still can't reach (such as the interior of the forest or the mine entrance) are still dark spots, which in both examples makes sense. So that's why I am priming black plastic, but I am aware this will differ from brand to brand since I also have PLA with a more rough finish. I have not (yet) tried to paint this rough PLA but I assume the results will be different, possibly eliminating the need for primer as you suggest.

[@siriroj3446]

oh god i love how you made them into magnetic tiles, absolutely great job.

[@emin86]

You should've assembled the bases without the inserts and turn it around. Than glue the felt over the underside of it. When dry, use a hobby knife and cut between the base pieces.

[@avitalalef9947]

Thanks for showing the prices! Not obvious at all 🌾🗻

[@franciscosarmiento9682]

Great! Awesome Job! Loved the video! thanks!!

[@Elwis252]

My guy, I love the door behind you, very old school, much comie. Great work btw, I think I'll get a 3D printer now C:

[@desmondfrost870]

Thanks for the inspiration! I am getting ready to print this set and I have no mini painting experience. It is encouraging to see you were able to create such a high-quality final product with your limited painting experience too! A very impressive first youtube video as well!

[@epicgardenboy414]

How does this guy not have more subs???

[@NorthCountryTrains]

This is awesome, thanks for sharing!

[@nichegames9590]

Looks good.

[@SirKevinthefirst]

It's cool to see the face to the print. I saw this on thingiverse a month or so ago and was thinking man this had to take a long time but it looks amazing. You motivated me to design my own board but I wanted one that doesn't involve painting at all just printing the tiles in one solid color. I've finished it but am making some small upgrades and will hopefully have it on thingiverse soon.

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Looking forward to seeing your design. Let me know when it is ready!

[@SirKevinthefirst]

@@jakwiebusprojects8634 will do! I have version 1 done. Gonna go through and cut it up a bit to save on plastic. Shouldn't take too much longer. I'll post it to thingiverse and put the link in here

[@goticalejo]

Love it!!! Thanks for sharing!

[@dryant]

Increible el resultado final! Enhorabuena! Y gracias por compartir!

[@Arlique1]

Re: black wash as a finish: I painted lead miniatures in the 1980's and am just now getting into 3D printing and painting. In my experience the black wash is used as a BASE coat, just over the primer, and not a finishing coat. This is a way to put dark shadows in the 'cracks before the detailed painting. For finishing, i used "dry brushing" and edge highlighting, usually with a very subtle white, or a mix of white and the colour beneath it. This can be used to give highlights to the edges and tips of objects. Thanks for recording your adventure!

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

As advertised: I started this a complete noob. Nevertheless I honestly liked painting these miniatures and I am going to paint some more for a boardgame we recently bought. So many thanks for the advice.

[@DovonMac1]

The black wash looks great yo

[@serikpay9958]

Очень крутая работа! (я смотрел это видео при помощи переводчика Yandex ;) )

[@det.caribou7405]

Well done

[@fly-fpv]

Great Job! Doing the same thing at the moment :D

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Thanks! And good luck with your version! Be sure to watch my video on the extra tokens, it might give you ideas for the gameplay.

[@fly-fpv]

@@jakwiebusprojects8634 I got some problems with painting the models, how often did you paint your models? My first layer just wont stay on the model… using arcyl paint

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

I also used simple and rather cheap acryl paints. I have primed with a white primer and mostly did not have to paint two layers. However it is true that on the base of the landscapes brush strokes could be quite visible (especially where the circle for the number token is placed). For a completely smooth finish on those places I sometimes had to put down two to three layers. For the details such as trees and houses the coverage was also not always perfect but I liked how it added structure, especially when the primer did not quite reach the smallest crevasses which added some depth effect as well. (Something that a black wash would do as well). That was the long explanation. :-) Now for the short one: if you think it looks good, it is good. Even if it is not done according to the "rules of the art" of painting miniatures. I'm willing to send you some detailed pictures if you want. Have fun.

[@cajaka4]

How you did a good job, bro. Keep it up!

[@eiskalt-]

very good video! thank u... all the others i found i dont like but your video is true!

[@nrghost4948]

saludos desde republica dominicana gracias por el video , tambien la hace

[@sjurursteinholm5368]

That looks awesome 👍

[@SimSummer]

cool im a fan of the game make a seafear exspand pack

[@alainlambert1922]

nice job

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

😊

[@glenthompson291]

Please add links to the felt and magnets and also please add the stl for the clips to hold in the magnets on thingiverse. I am going to my own Catan set, but I think I will just print your magnetic bases and then put flat tiles on them. Then print some stickers to put on it. I feel like the 3D texture would just get in the way of gameplay and obstruct the view of the numbers. I also don't have the painting skills lol. That Catan set is truly a masterpiece though, very well done.

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

I don't have the feeling the 3D gets in the way of gameplay, but I understand your concerns. Here are the links you asked for. I've also put them in the description. Magnets: www.supermagnete.be/staafmagneten-neodymium/staafmagneet-3mm-6mm_S-03-06-N? Bases, I've added the clips to the thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:3263769

[@milanmeulemans781]

F.C. De Kampioenen fan :)

[@KristofferEk]

I know a game I'd want to 3d print it's called Drak Borgen or Dragons fortress it's a one to how ever many character you have originally one to four players and it's ripe for making a 3d board for.

[@sarbartha88]

how do you store them? Did you print any box for that?

[@PincheHugo_130]

I just got D&D Monopoly, and it's surdda a let down =( just a very lazy port, SO I decided it needs a revamp of adjustments such as you did with this Catan. I just can't find anyone who has even tried to craft it better and I don't have access to a 3d printer so I'm stuck lol..... Instead of houses and hotels, I would think it best to Have Taverns and Inns, also the currency should have been coins and not paper bills.....the jail should have been renamed Dungeon jeje cause why not!! it really just needs so much rework, and if at all possible some mini game to make use of as d20...maybe to when you get to a purchasable land/monster, before buying it, you should best it first, otherwise you may not purchase and keep on going........just a thought though.....I just really luv D&D and know someone out there can TOTALLY make it better ;)

[@dragoscirca]

What paints did you use? To get that level of colorfulness for the green I need to apply 2-3 layers and even so the brush marks are quite visible. Also mixing standard acrylic colors is quite more difficult than what is seen in the video. How much water did you use (or none at all)?

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

I have used some miniature paints of the brand 'game colour'. I straight up mixed the paints without adding water. I only tend to add water if the paint is already drying out a bit, like when a mixture I've made is already a few days old (my mixing pot is old and does not close off very well). I did not encounter any issues regarding mixing, although it take a lot of trial and error if you have a specific colour in mind. In the video the mixing is not shown completely but cut short, which might give the impression that I wasn't stirring for several minutes. In terms of layers: yes often there is a need for a second or third coat, especially in the 'number disk' circle. In a lot of the pictures shown in the video, brush strokes or different levels of coverage are painfully obvious. I would advise here to not strife for perfection. The world is littered with imperfections and colour hues. Maybe the brush strokes and imperfections make it more alive. I have seen people even deliberately using a very diluted paint as a second layer to provoke these inconsistencies. But if a even colour is what you are after, you will indeed need at least two layers of paint.

[@dragoscirca]

@@jakwiebusprojects8634 Thank you for the fast reply and the very helpful explanation!

[@nemesisvii7]

Thanks for your video. Could you please put a link to the location where you bought the magnets? or the specs of the magnet (size). Once again thanks for the nice tutorial and clear explanation

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Thanks for your kind words. You need 3x6mm rod magnets wit the poles axial (parallel to height). The N48 is a number indicating the strength. This is important to have a strong enough attraction through the relatively thick plastic walls. Here is the link where I bought them: www.supermagnete.de/eng/rod-magnets-neodymium/rod-magnet-3mm-6mm_S-03-06-N

[@makitata9576]

i dont like the way the sea tiles are, is there a version with the sea tile looking like the original?

[@ubun2Junky]

Are the harbor tiles the only one that were made for a single color printer? I found the link to the other tiles, just wondering if those can get printed in a single print?

[@Gaboshkyy]

Great video! and great results :) it took you time and effort but clearly paid off. Now, after the adulation (though sincere) i have a dum question: do you think it's scalable, specifically downsizing? thanks!

[@pawedrab7980]

Still waiting for tutorial how to make friends...

[@rangerandrex89]

What size and strength magnets (N35, N50) did you use? How strong is the attraction of the tiles? I tried some 3x5mm Neodymium N50 cylinders and the connection was very weak. If you connect two tiles on a table and then pull one away it wasn't strong enough to drag the 2nd tile along. Was just strong enough to pull an empty base along.

[@DriesCludts]

Loved your video! I started printing this set a couple of weeks ago, but now I'm having a hard time printing the little caps to secure the magnets in place. They're not sticking to the bed and get knocked away or lifted up by the nozzle. I noticed you managed to print a full bed, so I'm very curious for any advice you might have! :)

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Hi, thanks for reaching out. First off; good luck and lots of fun with printing and painting you set. About the printing issues: prints not sticking can have several causes. Mainly bed leveling and bed cleanliness. I assume bed leveling is taken well care off in most printers but it never hurts to double check. The cleanliness of the print bed is something looked over easily and in my opinion one of the main reasons prints not sticking over time where flawless prints happened in the past. It is all to easy to get greasy fingers on the bed, and in open printers plain dust always settles on the surface. Cleaning of the (cold and unplugged) printbed can be done with any alcohol (IPA, rubbing alcohol, just plain denatured alcohol or even your cheapest 40% Vodka). Don't clean buildtak with anything stronger like nailpolish remover or acetone. Glass and pei can withstand more chemical abuse. If the bed is level and very clean, and still not sticking, it's slicer time: I am fan of overextruding your fist layer a bit. It will cause the dreaded elephantsfoot but prints stick very well (not good for dimensionally accurate prints, those get a brim). Print distance of the first layer is also something that is easily changed in the slicer and can have great results. Hopefully I could be of any help. And good luck!

[@DriesCludts]

@@jakwiebusprojects8634 Thanks for your reply! Managed to get everything printed in the end. On to painting now!

[@TheMatzi09]

Where do you have these magnets from? Can you provide a link or something 🤗

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Here you go; www.supermagnete.be/eng/rod-magnets-neodymium/rod-magnet-3mm-6mm_S-03-06-N Have Fun!

[@TheMatzi09]

@@jakwiebusprojects8634 thanks

[@ziomatthewmusic4205]

Hero

[@fep_ptcp883]

All that work and then some "friend" cuts your road and puts the robber on your 8 or 6 tile...

[@MissBabyNe]

Why did you choose to print separate tiles and base and glue them together after, but not print the base attached to the tile?

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

The magnets are locked in the base with the clips, then the whole base is shut by glueing in the tile. Printing the tile and base in one will make it impossible to insert the magnets.

[@rubycarroll579]

Where is the file for the magnet clips?

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

The clips are included in the orginal files of dakanzla. Named "extra_cap_base.slt" found here www.thingiverse.com/download:4431015

[@sud56]

Where can I find the magnets?

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

I have bought the rod magnet of Ø 3 mm, and height 6 mm, (nickel-plated neodymium, N48) from supermagnete.de. However any rod magnet of that size would work just fine. You can also find them easily on AliExpress and BangGood.

[@Houtoriteit]

Heb je de files hiervoor?

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Links: Flat bottom bases: www.thingiverse.com/thing:326... One piece harbours www.thingiverse.com/thing:326... Multi Resource Robber www.thingiverse.com/thing:376... Where to buy the playing cards catanshop.com/catan-replaceme... Catan 2.0 designed by Dakanzla www.thingiverse.com/thing:2525047 Trophies www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349867 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349876

[@MaikeruX88]

I wonder how the pieces look close up, so my questions; do they look really edgy and printy after painting. And does the prints resamble the cards? Last; how long did the process of just printing each tile take? Good video, and i also loved the follow up video.

[@jakwiebusprojects8634]

Thanks for the compliment. I have printed them at 0.1mm layer height. If you look closely, you can see some layers, especially on the shallow slopes of some of the landscapes, predominantly the desert and the sheep. But for the rest of the features, the layers don't catch the eye that much. A preview of the cards I bought is seen at 21:45. I did my best to resemble the colours, but the drawings are inevitably not really corresponding to the 3D designs. For your last question: I have used some very conservative printer settings, I have my maximum acceleration below 200mm/s and this really shows in the print time. On average the tiles took 3 to 4 hours each. and 1h additionally for the bases. I however have gotten some strange looks because of this, since some people seem to have successfully printed these designs in 1 to 2 hours. So, long story short: it's hard to say how long exactly, since it varies with the used settings.

[@jswklj]

first!