3D printed RC cars: How Easy it Could Be?

[@casadioDesign]

I also published a 1:8 scale replica of the new Ford Bronco, more than 255 3D printed parts. I had a lot of fun, and now I'm working on some upgrades :) looking forward to see my designs on this channel!

[@benjaminford8173]

The new gen 6 Bronco?

[@Fasel99]

Where I can download it?

[@norsebavarian1941]

Does the engine blow up after 2000 miles like the full size? Lol.

[@benjaminford8173]

@@norsebavarian1941 Are you talking about the 2.7L dropping valves?

[@norsebavarian1941]

@@benjaminford8173 Indeed.

[@dannyh1]

I MISSED THESE TYPES OF VIDEOS THANK YOU FOR MAKING ANOTHER

[@Mdbunn2013]

hi, I printed the Landy from 3Dsets. so much fun to make. absolutely recommend.

[@unimprezzedmclastname4220]

I'm building a 3D printed clone of the DJI Inspire 2. It's been fun so far. I started printing the project in PETG, but then moved to ASA because ASA is lighter and easier to work with than PETG, especially because I have an enclosure.

[@simonquvang6073]

Wouldnt PLA LW be even lighter?

[@spinnetti]

Cool stuff. I recently design and built a 1/12 scale tank (Hetzer) and printed on my Prusa. Came out great, with scale drive system tool.

[@RoadsideRC]

I have been on the fence for getting into 3D printing...and you might be pushing me across the line here. Finally time! Just which one of your models now.

[@NPrints]

Can’t go wrong with the Mk3

[@MichalKaczorowski]

Printing models of RC tanks is also popular nowadays. As they drive slower, they are less prone to damage than cars;)

[@adrianberardo4668]

2:07 en Argentina se lo conoce como Renault 12 o tambien Dacia

[@freddieparrydrums]

I’ve been making RC bodies for my Traxxas TRX-6, awesome stuff!!

[@railgear2559]

Which resin type you use to print cars

[@NeoIsrafil]

At some point I may be doing some attempts at race-worthy rc cars. Maybe even a scaled up 8th scale or larger one, since they're so ungodly expensive for NO good reason. (We know the material costs aren't particularly much different, people just expect to pay more for a larger car so manufacturers are jerks). Ive got a few that might be worth making the printed version compatible with too, so if people wanted metal components they could use em.

[@LukasDozer]

I have a question for you, is it possible to take a photo of a car that you like or your own car and have it made as an RC car?

[@ishaanpatel2905]

thanks for the tips they are much appreciated

[@PowerSports]

ePA-CF for the win!!!

[@TeamMarlon]

hello i have ,a question how or where do i find a machine that makes clear rc car bodies 1/8 scale truggy buggy gt

[@Prusa3D]

We recommend you to take a look at the Prusa XL. Or a Prusa MK4 and join the bigger parts together. www.prusa3d.com/category/3d-printers/

[@TeamMarlon]

@@Prusa3D Thank you very much for responding to my comment so I can be sure if you know what I'm looking for so I don't buy something and then regret it because it wasn't what I wanted. I will try to send you a picture so you can see what exactly I want a 3D machine to do.

[@TeamMarlon]

Well, it seems that there is no option to send you a photo so you can see what exactly I would like for the 3D machine, but I will send you the information about the body of the ones I would like to make and you can look for it as soon as you have some free time. and so you can realize what I want to do. Thank you very much for your attention, but kindly hear from you. Thank you.

[@TeamMarlon]

for example this or this information that I am going to send you 👍🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻Custom Body Clear Unpainted for Traxxas Sledge 6S 4WD 1/8 Truck Shell Cover yes this 3D machine that you sent me makes this type of bodies I am decided to buy one

[@Prusa3D]

Hi. Please contact us through our Technical Support Team. This way, we will be sure we dont miss your information. help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287

[@bryangale26]

Very cool, very cool

[@vdel9036]

Are the Prusa printers able to print soft TPU to get good tires ? I mean a shore 70A. I'm searching a new printer for that task...

[@secretagb]

I've been printing FilaFlex 60A on my Prusa Mk2.5 with relative ease. Relative being it's flex so you should probably already have some good experience with something like NinjaFlex before going this soft. But yes, it does work with no special mods. I'm using the standard everything, save for a coated nozzle instead of brass, but idk what difference that would make here. Purchased the FilaFlex from NarrowPath3D since I think that's the only place in the US that sells anything that soft. Print average 85-90A TPU is not much harder than printing PET, but this stuff has more of a learning curve. 225-235C on the nozzle depending on the model/speed. 40C on the bed for first layer, then 35 after just to keep it warm. I use MagiGoo to keep it from permanently adhering to the PEI coated plate. The following is all on a 0.6mm nozzle: 1.1 extrusion multiplier, no more than 25% cooling fan except on bridges where it's 50-75%, no fan at all for first 5 layers, max volumetric of 1.2mm^3/s, 2.4mm retract length, no z lift, 35mm/s retract and deretract speed, 0.3mm layer height up to 35mm/s general and 50mm/s for support and bridges seems to work well.

[@vdel9036]

@@secretagb Many thanks for these tech data. I note them. A friend will test soon my filaflex 70A on his Mk3. If that goes well, i buy the same printer.

[@jhoanrivero7885]

Puro great products with quality

[@Gameknighth]

what glue are you useing i cant get super glue to stick to 3d prints

[@Prusa3D]

That's strange, we use super glue most of the time. Check our Great Guide to Gluing and Assembling 3D Prints: blog.prusa3d.com/the-great-guide-to-gluing-and-assembling-3d-prints_44908/

[@ishaanpatel2905]

How much did making the RC jeep cost?

[@ripmax333]

you have to get about 3 kg at least of filament, bearings from Ailexpress are about 20euros, another 10 to 15 for the tires, Transmitter and receiver another 50 euros or maybe even less, motor depends if you go brush or brushless a brushed motor can cost for as little as 10 euros, there are a lot of screws and nuts to get because the 3dsets models don't use any glue for assembling their models. and about the filaments, if you decide to print their geared gearbox you will have to consider getting PC blend Pla as its a must for the longevity of the geared gearbox BUT they also have a belt type gearbox which is much more silent, durable, and reliable but you have to purchase the belts and a brushless motor which might add up to the cost. then you need a battery which might cost you another 50 euros depending on the brand, capacity, etc I think it might get you up to at least 200 to 300 euros to print one, but they are a lot of fun to print and drive and pretty unique.

[@ishaanpatel2905]

@@ripmax333 ok thanks!

[@stewartlindsay2275]

@@ishaanpatel2905 You can do it for a lot less than that, don't know where this guy is getting his numbers from.

[@kharn2472]

what ive been learning so far is when you say print vertically it will you have to think about like a grain structure, that hood will snap really easily compared to being printed flat

[@ToxicSocietyTroll]

Of all the cars in the world?

[@a.o.m-3433]

Que hace un renault 12 ahi noo

[@jeffbezos1453]

I hope the bambu labs x1 is going to make prusa drop the prices or come up with a better printer

[@deltacx1059]

0:40 I doubt this heavily.

[@BowlGOfficial]

keep doubting, they're not wrong

[@deltacx1059]

@@BowlGOfficial maybe all the pla I've bought is just bad but the thinner parts tend to fracture when they hit things but my petg parts bounce. that company has a incentive to make their stuff easy to print so they have to factor that in. But I can really only speak on what I've observed.

[@BowlGOfficial]

@@deltacx1059 its not about good pla really, PLA is stiff, but therefore also brittle, that is the key factor they should be designing around, its what i'm doing on my project right now aswell, you can also design PLA parts to flex om purpose without breaking, just needs to be done correctly, also if you want your car surviving frontal crashes into a wall past 20 km/h you should opt for flexible filaments anyway. (or you make a crash bar that can absorb a certain amount of force and just needs to be unscrewed and put into the old position again) the indestructible basher cars i know literally are made of abs and elastic rubbery plastic links making half the car wobble and flex if reacting to stresses

[@OMGWTFBBQSHEEP]

I kind of disagree that PLA is the best material for 3D printed RC cars. Why would you not want the toughness of PETG, ABS, Nylon, PC etc? PLA is strong, yes, but with its brittleness it is quite bad at absorbing impacts.

[@jakubkoci4626]

Indeed it is. PETG, TPU and similar resistant materials are good for printing bumpers, tyres etc. But PETG often comes with stringing and oozing, ABS and PC warp a lot and Nylon is generally one of the hardest filaments to print (and expensive). The hood (and visual parts in general) looks much better with PLA.

[@jaumesinglavalls5486]

I miss the open-rc F1 car

[@MrGTAmodsgerman]

PLA for RC cars? No way! This material isn't suited for outdoor use in the sun. Everyone with at least some little research about 3D printing should know that. It melts in the sun and there are a lot of people out there who spend a lot of time printing 3D sets cars with PLA, sanding, filling and painting them, just to realize that they body melted in the sun.

[@mariolaflamme5438]

Do you actually live in on the sun? I've been driving my R/C car made of PLA for weeks and nothing is even warped or melted even during the worst days of summer

[@MrGTAmodsgerman]

​@@mariolaflamme5438 I am in a group for RC Car 3d printing. There are many many people printing they cars in PLA and had this trouble. Just read the datasheet of your material. Just that simple. There is a melting temperature. If you live somewhere in the cold, oh there might your luck. Or your PLA you buy have general higher melting point. Also the color you choose matters. If you print in black PLA, you will likely see higher temperature on your RC because it eats the sun light, while white absord alot of it. Pure PLA has a melting zone starting from 60°C (the "glass transition temperature") to about 155°C or more depending on what additives or dyes is in the filament.

[@shentharo]

I have requested a refund and been promised for over a month and my facebook account was banned just now from their support. DO NOT TRUST PRUSA WITH YOUR MONEY!

[@Jeff.55649]

They should tax 3d printers hard so much plastic waste!

[@Mike_Tyo]

I only print in PETG. All my waste goes in the recycle bin and it get recycled with all the other household plastics.

[@chimpo131]

Laaame