3D Printed Tank/Tractor TRACKS for RC Vehicles - Part 1

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MY PATREON PAGE: / letsprintyt
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This model is designed for RC vehicles, most likely for tanks or tractors. In the near future, I am going to build an RC tractor around these tracks. To not miss this, make sure u have subscribed and the notification bell is turned on!
You also need:
608zz bearings (AMAZON: amzn.to/3svK4bW ) ali.ski/7K3tAl
608zz bearings (BEST DEAL): ali.ski/A8pryA
688zz bearings: (AMAZON: amzn.to/3szBLvP ) ali.ski/7K3tAl
M3x50mm bolts: ali.ski/5JGcXs
M4x50mm bolts: ali.ski/2nh0jZ
M8 threaded rod
M8 lock nuts: ali.ski/00tfp
M8 washers: ali.ski/P9Sr-
8mm steel rod & 20mm aluminum pipe (or what material u prefer)
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Facebook: www. lets...
Instagram: / letsprintyoutube
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[@Oroborus710]

I saw the title in my notifications and instantly clicked thinking it was RCflitetest, but I'm even happier to be getting a new video from you! I'm excited to see where you take this tank track, and what kind of awesome machines you will make in the future as well. Keep up the fantastic work!!

[@blakerhoades6356]

I thought the same exact thing!

[@teodorvangelov]

Do you mean rctestflight? I also thought it was his video.

[@blakerhoades6356]

Yeah I thought it was something for the snowcat

[@hoverhead047]

Great adaption of the Sherman tank type tracks. One issue I saw was the outer diameter of the washers was the same as the outer race of the bearings. These may be an issue stopping the bearings from rotating freely.

[@NETBotic]

Cool design. I've been looking at a lot of 3d printed tracks and like this one the best.

[@martylawson1638]

Amazing build and design. The quiet operation is a great sign, indicates that you got everything sized really well. Fyi, using the threaded section of a screw in a bushing is asking for premature wear. Luckly it's easy to fix, just get partially threaded screws next time. If you pick the right length, D-links on the tracks will pivot mostly on the smooth unthreaded portion.

[@maverickstclare3756]

I'm excited to see how this works out. Someone here in the comments said the sprockets look weak (I'm not sure myself, wait and see) but if so, a great opportunity to get PCB Ways to print some in another material !

[@LetsPrintYT]

I believe that sprockets can keep up and even if they finally fail, I can always print these with stronger printing settings and other materials (nylon, PC, PEEK).

[@dirtbikeboy66]

Great video. I might build this one day. Little tip: screw 2 nuts on each side of the threaded rod before cutting the rod. Cut between the two nuts then spin them off. When you get to the cut end of the rod you can use the nut to repair the threads.

[@PleakeCrions]

Would really love to see your CAD process. I think it would be awesome to see how these come to be. Also awesome job with your English. Knowing technical words in one language is hard enough, let alone being able to work in two languages at once. So amazed by everything you do!!

[@chamudithjayasekara6325]

It is perfect project.waiting to see final results.Good luck!😎😎😎😎😎

[@CrazeUK]

Brilliant work. I wonder how well this can scale down. I guess the key considerations are the metal parts and the minimum sizing we can get

[@CheffBryan]

Had the same thought, I'd love to print a pair and turn one of my old Mini T's into a half track buggy!

[@CrazeUK]

@CheffBryan I was thinking my own rendition of Johnny 5 lol

[@tadeosanchez6271]

Nice project 😮✌️, when I cut those threaded rods , first put the nut and then I can use the nut to secure it in a vise. The nut will act as the die tool , some little advice 😁.

[@PhG1961]

Very impressive ! Excellent video, great ingenuity !

[@propm]

For cutting threaded rods, I usally put a nut on it, gently sand/file the very edge and then screw the nut off. Never had any problems doing it that way

[@gabstar3029]

You make really High quality projects and videos love your work mate

[@Qwarzz]

That does look like a nice way to make a printed track... may have to try this myself.

[@EdwardChew]

Wow looks good. Looking forward to use this track

[@Lambda1235]

3:00 screw in a nut before you cut the threaded rod, removeing the nut after cutting fixes the thread

[@Lambda1235]

it is also better to clamp the rod on the nut, while cutting, to not damage the thread with clamping

[@CrazeUK]

Nice. Never thought of that

[@hervesv9529]

Wow, really cool project and good video quality. I hope the algorithm recommends you to many others!

[@cliffcampbell8827]

To help protect the threads of your bolts when in a vice, make copper plates that cover the entire clamping surfacs and have it held in place by having the copper fold over the top of the vice.

[@axeus1382]

Cool turned out, you need to wake up the old wheels from the BMW X5 to find and make yourself an all-terrain vehicle. 👍😁

[@saltwaterrook4638]

The tension setup you had was only missing a tension screw similar to a chainsaw. it would keep the axle pushed back while still allowing it to be loose enough to roll. Should be fairly easy to adapt your model.

[@weddellseal8414]

you may want to make those bottom wheels to be all smooth, the teeth may cause it to throw a track. and a track horn also helps to prevent track throwing

[@KCreations4You]

One thought. The ends seem a bit abrupt. Like tracks usually have a reverse ramp on the leading edge or a large idle wheel. My thought aside its an amazing project and you are giving the files away really sets you apart from channels that charge for plans. Keep it up!

[@joelepack938]

A little trick when cutting threaded rods. Put the nut on before you cut. Then simply unscrew the nut which will clean up the threads.

[@Flatout56-o8k]

Bro this is so satisfying to watch, sadly they look wayyyyy to big to use on my t maxx

[@DwenDooley]

Fix the threads: Screw 3 nuts on before you cut. Then lock 2 nuts together so you can hold the rod still and use a wrench to remove the 3rd nut over the slightly damaged threads. Fixed. :-)

[@aimtron]

Just printed and assembled one of these. Some of the holes were tight on the supports and the sprockets, but got through them. I think the model shows 35 track pieces but it was more like 37 or 38. I'll go back and count when I get a chance.

[@aimtron]

Wanted to follow up on this. The gear boxes were a bit of a nightmare. The gears on the motor didn't attach very well under any significant force and you could hear the screws scraping against it. To get past this, we re-worked the gear on the motor to be friction fit which resolved this issue. Next, the planetary gears were too loose inside their cases, so we sized them up a bit. This was a little bit of trial and error, but we got it there. Finally, due to the planetary gears still being loose, the gear connecting to the drive shaft had significant vertical displacement resulting in significant slippage and/or the gear box + motor shifting back. We did a couple of things to resolve this. First, we added some thin strips of rubber to the upper brackets holding the motor in place. We also placed a strip of rubber under the motor on the motor harness. This stopped the gearbox + motor from moving backward. We also put in inserts into the motor harness to keep the brackets in place due to the torque. Finally, we designed a new cap on the gear boxes that allowed us to place a large bearing that held the gear that interfaces with the drive shaft gear to stay in place without displacement. This final step resolved our issues and we were able to get this rolling. Bottom line, it's a cool design with some flaws, but if you spend time on it, you can work your way through those flaws and sort it out.

[@aimtron]

Video: kzbin.inforOM37xmcWQk

[@piconano]

This is a nice one. Hope to see part 2 soon.

[@grantclark4139]

Nice job man!

[@Tarbard]

Really nice job.

[@lazyman1011]

@Let’s print One tip for you, just put one or two nuts on the thread before cutting it, than file of sharp edge’s and loosen the nuts out over the cutted part. No need to recut the threads anymore. Also please use the two nuts locking each other to clamp the rod and not harming the thread and hurting my eyes😉

[@shroomy7199]

at 3 mins in you use tap and die to recut thread if you just screwed an 8mm nut on cut the rod then unwind the nut it will clear the swarfe save using tap and die cheaper

[@Silverturky]

Cool!! What if you were to make the tracks in such a way that you could coat them with a few layers of rubber spray so they can track on concrete as well and not get worn down

[@samernajia]

Exactly, and if they can be cast our of rubber outright then they can be all weather (as in warm weather)

[@xapemanx]

if you don't have a die, and industry trick is to thread a non locking nut onto the rod before hand below your cut, and remove the bolt afterward, and it will straighten out your threads

[@DamnCyrus]

Looks really cool! Would love to try it at a smaller scale, but then clearances and everything may become an issue. I think I'll stick to seeing what this final project looks like lol

[@TrollFaceTheMan]

Actually if you leave a nut on the threaded rod then take it off After cutting the nut will reform the threads without needing to recut in most cases. As a pro tip ;]

[@UnitSe7en]

The best way to fix your rod not accepting nuts is to grab a file and take the ends of the threads down to a narrower radius so the damaged portion doesn't interfere with the nut. The damage is only about half a turn of thread. A die is probably the worst way to fix this in this context.

[@petleh82]

Suggestion: Stop using screws for the hinges in the tracks. Get a roll of nylon filament and cut pieces of that and use that instead. And as a bonus it is possible to print with it :-)

[@kostyaunin2900]

Before you'll cut a bolt you can screw on a nut on it and after cut you be able to screw out the nut and this nut will repair thread. it saves much time at all

[@MLFranklin]

Sweet!

[@YuriyKlyuch]

Great work! But seeing that sprockets are plastic - isn't that part that needs to handle lots of torque and load?

[@stevenfaber3896]

I feel like this is going to take a long enough time where I can say... LIDAR assisted tractor for an RC Garden in the summer, and then redo the attachments to plow your own driveway in the winter... 🤣😇

[@radodanchev8600]

I love your videos

[@chetanexperiment8277]

Good work

[@AdamWebb1982]

Part of me wants to print like 4 of these and mount a wooden "car" for my sisters kids to ride on!

[@SeanMB100]

Here's a trick for cutting anything with external threads. Put a nut on first, thread it down so it's below your cut, cut it, and then remove the nut. When it comes off it will fix the threads.

[@tomnicht1796]

Top weiter so

[@lemonamnesia8561]

Hello friend! Can u make a video where u show step by step how u did this in your CAD Programm? (Fusion 360 i think)

[@samernajia]

I would love to scale this up a little and cast the running gear and frame out of aluminum. Then the tracks can be cast out of rubber and turn it into something that can be all weather and handle a human passenger

[@fusotanzania8174]

Trucks for life 🚛🚛🚛🚚🚚🚚❤️i love FUSO🚛🚛🚚🚚🚚all fuso fans

[@EdwardChew]

I just downloaded. But it's a step file instead of stl :D

[@sajalacharjee7008]

Cool

[@kostyaunin2900]

it's interesting. Will it drug me on a sleigh?

[@Lambda1235]

nice it is a STEP file, i want to make some minor changes :D

[@SeanMB100]

OK this is badass! Are you going to print another set?

[@jeremiahmarin92]

You should try to make an air raid siren 🚨

[@mprajwal8722]

can you make the same with rotavator attachment

[@nikimarkieren7848]

in respect to re-threading the 8mm Rod just Put a Nut on in front of the cut and when you have cut it off undo the Nut and thread clean voila No epensive tools needed

[@viniciusnoyoutube]

Great

[@Trasimac]

Is there any specific reason not to use a gimbal BLDC motor for the tracks? I would prefer not to print the gears you use, and I already have two iPower GM5208-12 bldc motor

[@GoatZilla]

seems like you should use partially threaded screws

[@sphagnumrex9008]

it would be nice to make the protectors on the links replaceable, because they will wear out.

[@SkullpunkArt]

9:14 Bruh why does that screwing in sound slap tho?

[@MuhamadRidwan-pq6wk]

Pertama nih sob 👍

[@valtersouzaribeiroribeiro9534]

Bom dia parabens

[@tomrowlee8792]

What scale would the tracks be?

[@fooman2108]

The American vernacular for repairing the threads on something threaded like that with a die, would CHASING the threads.....

[@iamaduckquack]

I'm just here because neon/lime green is my favourite colour.

[@occ3docc3d57]

👍

[@OffroadMXbohemia]

It is 608zz (not the 806zz) right?

[@OffroadMXbohemia]

said in the 25:53

[@OffroadMXbohemia]

sorry 2:53

[@Lucas_sGarage]

Man... With PCB way... I want to order the indymill steel plates... They Want to charge me 460 usd for the job while a company here in Uruguay charge me 160... What's going on with PCB way and their prices?

[@Jkauppa]

try metal or 3d printed or plastic cast impeller/tesla-disc shrouded drone rotor-turbine, very high rpm, vertical orientation, the air going from center-side-in

[@Jkauppa]

drone turbine but impeller pump instead, not direct rotor or ducted fan

[@Jkauppa]

diy pure dc lorentz force brushless electric dc motors

[@Jkauppa]

axial permanent magnet, looped coil axial wire ring rotor, or reverse

[@Jkauppa]

no control circuits

[@KnightKrawler57]

Where can I get the quantity of hardware required?

[@nullsnaggle5198]

Hello my good sir may I make a suggestion for you to print?

[@madtias_]

where are you from?

[@hassearo3457]

väga lahe. te teete väga huvitavaid asju. näen et kasvad väga kiiresti. ma olin ka üsna hammastunud et kui vaiksed need olid. arvan et see tulenes nende trackide juppide vahedest.

[@shayneallison8316]

would it work better fi going a slosw speed to have CRAWLER m,ottotrs ibnsiude

[@MuhammadSalman-be1qz]

Please print an Arcade Stick Push button with hot swappable mechanical keyboard keys.

[@Denis-S]

5:53 Бедный подшипник. :(

[@aimtron]

Modified Version: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qICwZGquosiKh80

[@positron5687]

Sadly not 100%, so dislike because of clickbait.