3D Printing For Woodworking Workshop With Budget Friendly 3D Printer Longer LK5 Pro | Free Download

[@CasualDIY]

Shopping: - Longer LK5 Pro 3D printer - s.zbanx.com/r/O40q6zVWyEo0

[@johnpenman1548]

Hi Tomasz, Fantastic demo of what you can make with a 3-D Printer for the workshop. I have always wanted to buy a 3-D printer but I couldn't justify buying one until this video - many thanks!

[@CasualDIY]

Hehe well there you go my friend 👍

[@MCsCreations]

Brilliant, Tomasz! 😃 Those prints are the minimum you want to have! Fantastic! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@CasualDIY]

Just getting started with them 😅👍 all the best mate

[@geoffreycoan]

Thanks Tomasz, some useful 3D printed gadgets there. I’ve been using my 3D printer for workshop things and have found it very useful as well. Thingiverse and printables are great resources for free model downloads and yeggi and stlfinder search engines to find the model you need. If anything too much choice for things like vacuum adapters! So far I’ve made a set of guide rail stops, a LR32 shelf pin hole rocker (thats screwed on an MDF sled modelled on your router sled), a flappy paddle stop button for the bandsaw, zero clearance insert plate for the bandsaw and a vacuum hose deflector for the end of the guide rail. Great fun

[@CasualDIY]

Exactly it's just such an amazing tool. I'm still on the beginning of my adventure with 3d printing still plenty to discover 👍

[@1952TonyC]

Tomasz, excellent video, thank you. Most thought provoking. As a 3D printer user I was wondering how you would get around making the thread. I’d never have thought of heating a nut and fitting it. Absolutely brilliant. 😊

[@CasualDIY]

Sometimes the easiest solutions are the hardest to come by

[@EcoHamletsUK]

I find that a parametric CAD program is the most useful. It allows you to design parts where you can enter all the dimensions and it will redraw to any size you want. I use OpenSCAD, but FreeCAD and some of the more exotic CAD programs does it to. It's great for things like dust collector hose connectors, where you can draw it once, and resize it for any combination of hose sizes. Great for knobs, router guides and all sorts of other jigs and guides you might need in different sizes.

[@CasualDIY]

Eventually I'll get into those more advanced programs, I hope sooner rather than later as my ideas of 3D printed projects are spiraling out of control 😅

[@GC-cc9yp]

Hi Tomasz, another great video. Two ways to make stuff that are very different but very complimentary. It looked like your 3D printer was in your workshop. Is that where it normally is? What about dust? I have one I'm considering moving to the workshop in an enclosure, but still worried about dust when I open the door to get a print. And don't like the (possible) fumes and noise in the house. How do you find dust on the pritner in your shop? Thanks for the videos.

[@CasualDIY]

I do put them in a plastic shroud and seal them tight. When I use them in my workshop all other work stops. To prevent the dust flying around. Sometimes I move them to my downstairs bathroom lol hardly anyone uses it, but I do print overnight if it's in the house.

[@GC-cc9yp]

@@CasualDIY Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try an air filter (fine shop vac bag or something) and see how it goes enclosed in the shop.

[@barry.w.christie]

Hi Tomasz, another great video (as usual), demonstrating just a few of the things it can be used for 👍 A few things ... 1) Was there a reason you didn't add a hex hole in the top of the star knobs, instead of having to melt the nuts in? 2) You state the huge savings you made, but don't explain how you figured that out ... if ignore the machine running cost and express the weight of an item (material weight used) as a percentage of the spool weight, then that figure as a percentage of the spool price would give the cost of materials!

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you. 1. Melting the nut inside makes it stable and it won't move, fall out, and there is no need to glue it in place. 2. Savings will be made over time. The corner radius jigs go for £10-£30. Set of star knobs £10. Router guide Bush £10, hose adapters £10 and so on. For me a 1kg spool cost £10. So I made all those items for about £1 of filament plus let's say about £2 of electricity. There is the cost of the machine however the more items I print for my workshop the cost will diminish. Same as you were to buy a festool Domino. You make two kitchens or cabinets or something and the tool will pay itself off and after that will make you money. I hope you can see where I'm coming from.

[@barry.w.christie]

@@CasualDIY Hi Tomasz, thanks for taking the time to reply and for the info ... I did believe that you'd saved a lot but just not how much, that's quite a significant sum ... I never really count the cost of tools, mainly because they earn their way effectively. 👍 P.S. I'd never buy any Festool product, I'm of the opinion that they are not significantly better than their counterparts to warrant that sort of price premium 😲

[@CasualDIY]

@@barry.w.christie I agree about the Festool apart one tool they got, the Domino.

[@barry.w.christie]

@@CasualDIY Patent potentially runs out in 2024 👍

[@CasualDIY]

@@barry.w.christie yes I heard about it we are so close 😅

[@jonathanditren1680]

this printer is not so great, it's not fully compatible with Cura, comes with a warp bed and no BLtouch.

[@CasualDIY]

I must have been lucky mine was fine. I use Cura and PrusaSlicer with no issues. And yes the machine does not come with BLtouch, was it part of the package you bought and it wasn't there on your product arrival?

[@jonathanditren1680]

@@CasualDIY i fix things, no thanks to Longer who never took the time to answer a customer. very disappointed with them, but its whatever at this point

[@CasualDIY]

@@jonathanditren1680 hmm that's seems quite poor on them if they did not answer a customers email 🤔