3D printing guides: Everything about heated beds!

[@Cheeky_Goose]

It's crazy how many years you've been making videos. I didn't know 3D printing existed until around 2017 when I was in high school

[@karlfelgate9765]

Hey Tom, can you do an update to this?

[@malloott]

Jup, would love an update on this.

[@TheRainHarvester]

Does automatic bed leveling solve any design challenges? Like pcb heater's warping is no longer an issue etc?

[@birukch7871]

@@TheRainHarvester no it will not.

[@TheRainHarvester]

@@birukch7871 If the bed consistently warps under heat, and the bed-leveling is done after heating, then bed-leveling would solve that problem. (Just an example...looking for others..)

[@birukch7871]

@@TheRainHarvester the warp is mostly due to cooling and the material property of the plastic. For your case. Warping due to bed problem is another issue but it will not solve your part from warping. The auto bed leveling system is a software based system. It doesn't unbend your build plate. A simple solution is to use adhesive.

[@dirty30love]

Thanks so much for the guide. I'm in the process of adding a heated bed to my setup now because I'm sick of all the failed prints or effort I've had to take to get a decent (still warped) printed. Keep up the good work dude!

[@Technivorous]

5 years later and still great info. a little dated, but mostly accurate. love your channel Tom.

[@boodoesart4872]

this and one of your other videos is really helpful thanks(no issue with listening to and comprehending your voice)

[@flowupdesign]

your english is awesome, Keep it up! and thanks for all these great tips

[@jp400motox]

+SKVTN i agree. I think his english is just fine.

[@outputcoupler7819]

I agree, his English is quite good. Hardly even has an accent, and sounds very natural with no funny inflections or strange word choices. I find that a large fraction of people who say "Please forgive my poor English" actually speak English very well. Dunning-Kruger at work, they're good enough at the language that they can hear their mistakes, so they think they're terrible.

[@shankyrobot]

This video was very Educational regarding the Heated Beds for printers. Thank you for making this and sharing the knowledge

[@BennXdesign]

After my "home made prusa i3" with PBC heat bed, I use now aluminium plate (230*200mm) + heat mat 250W with main power on my new 3D printer. This is clearly the way to go, from 20C to 110C in 5 minutes, I can't complain. Also I made a hole on the side of the aluminium plate, kind of Thomas shown in the video, I figured out that this was a big win.

[@romanbirman]

your accent is not the problem. its the music man.

[@skyalchemist0]

I have a PCB bed and to avoid the bowing or bulging problem I insulated the bottom of the bed with fiber glass style insulation used for pottery kilns, you can usually get it at your local hardware store =)

[@TheRainHarvester]

Great idea!! Did the insulation help with getting higher temps, and also heating up faster? How long? Thanks!

[@gertbrand173]

For Si heaters, do what I did. Simply measure the difference over about +5 different temperatures and draw a graphic difference of this. Now calculate the error and add that to the reading in the firmware. Works great and my temps are between .4 and .6 Degrees incorrect, but still working great. Thanks for the great vid.

[@MrInnovative]

hey what is need if this hot bed, 3D model can't be print on any random metal surface at room tempreature ?

[@gamerpaddy]

hot filament touches cold surface = shrinks = doesnt stick to the bed anymore

[@MrJsmall12]

Tom your videos are the best! Please keep it going, You have helped me more than you can imagine lol

[@alliwantedisapepsi]

Thank you for detailed and through explanations on all of your videos. We appriciate your time. I'm going to build a printer soon and your helping a lot.

[@TheRainHarvester]

Can a double sided pcb (both sides heating) help prevent warping? It could accept more electricity, and make more heat as a bonus?

[@sublimationman]

Thomas, have you looked into PEI plastic as a replacement for tapes, glues and such? It's almost a miracle material and works perfect for ABS and PLA with no need for anything else. I have mine on glass (TAZ 4 has the silicone heater glued to the glass) but I think the ideal combo would be a silicone heater on alluminum with PEI on top of that. The bottom of the prints are always smooth and shiny as well since there are no materials in the way and it's flat and smooth.

[@sublimationman]

Have not had that happen yet. The tape is very strong and I use a painters knofe to pry my prints off when they are really stuck (see my videos on it).

[@jonatanrullman]

Thomas, now two years later, how do you feel about the quality of the silicone heaters?

[@jamescullins2709]

Never mind, I found your answer. Great job by the way. When I have a question I usually see if you have covered it first thing.

[@monstercolorfunco4391]

wondered at what points to measure the resistance of the HB because my multimeter reading rises over time until it reaches 1. that's when i measure the N-L wires. except that it should be around 1.1 ohms so i donno why it isnt.

[@jamescullins2709]

Thomas, What thickness is the aluminum for heatbed?

[@jeriharman-deal5833]

K m kjo hi John see you in January for him o is a k it to him in o k going in ik job in k m k sad e good d kit o job o on k we u cc'd was

[@kb3931]

@@jeriharman-deal5833 wut

[@孙益鸣]

3mm

[@jamescullins2709]

@@孙益鸣 tkS

[@animateclay]

Couldn't you use some thermal paste in between the bed and heater to make better contact?

[@robert36902]

Is there any printer that uses 48V for heating? It would make sense to raise the voltage to get more power without having ridiculous amps flowing through connectors and transistors.

[@FlowcastYT]

I use 45c for the bed when using pla works like a charm.

[@nunooliveira1570]

Great video! Thanks a lot for sharing! @ 9:33 (...) the E3...?? method. What is this about, i can't seem to find it, could you please enlight me about it? Also, so, milled Al plate has much better adhesion than glass, right? Thank you so much in advance.

[@reluttr2]

+Nuno Oliveira He means like how the E3D printhead mounts its thermistor. Basically they have a small hole drilled into the aluminum, with a second threaded hole next to it. You stick the top of the thermistor into the unthreaded hole, then secure it by fitting a screw and washers between the leads and screwing it into the threaded hole.

[@HerzogJoni]

I know this is an old video but I'm asking myself the question because I plan to give a small printer a larger heatbed. E It's a special size, meaning I would attach two heatbeds to an aluminum plate. Can I connect the heatbeds with one ie thermostat and power and then with one board both Simultaneous control?

[@Rmckito]

Thank you Tom, very informative and I'm glad I watched this video. I am in the process of trying to work out problems with the stock heating bed solution that came with my TRONXY x5sa 3d printer. I'm thinking after my research and watching your video as part of the research I'm leaning toward the silicone heater mat. I do want to put multiple thermistors on some sweet spots of my build area and I'm thinking the E3D v6 method might be the way I will go for them but still up in the air on it.

[@CrixyTnT]

Hi i got a problem i have a Mk3 heatbed running it with a Ramps 1.4 when i try to heat up the bed it only power on for a few seconds and when i feel the mosfit its really really hot what can i do to solve it please help

[@John-Smith-007]

Hello, I’ve just upgraded my sidewinder x2, I removed the glass bed and bought a aluminum bed, I’ve put back the genuin heat surface under the aluminum bed, I’ve put a magnetic surface on the aluminum, then a PEI ! My problem is that when is set my printer to 65 ’degres, and when I mesure with infrared thermometer, it’s only 50 !! A hudge différence … and I don’t know what to do, when I remove the PEI, the temp on magnetic bed seem to be more around the 60 ! Do you have an idea to be more accurate ? Thks Even if I wait 20mn the temps dos not go up … Thks

[@kdanagger6894]

What is the best way to glue, or to get good thermal contact between a PCB heater and a glass bed? I just recently switched from an aluminum heatbed to glass, and the PCB heater is slightly dished. The small air gap is acting as an insulator and my glass is not getting anywhere near as hot as the PCB heater.

[@fvheel]

Hi Thomas I like to know the difference in warmup times on different print-serfaces. What i mean is this: How long does it take a pcb bed to warm up on 12v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc. How long does it take a pcb bed to warm up on 24v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc. How long does it take a pcb bed to warm up on 48v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc. How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 12v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc. How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 24v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc. How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 48v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc. How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 110v mains to 60c, 80c, 100c etc. How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 230v mains to 60c, 80c, 100c etc. I can not find this anywhere. Is there a excel sheet i can download? Thank you

[@flybywire5866]

PVA sticks nicely to a heated bed with a thin layer of Ponal. It seems Ponal is the only thing PVA sticks reliably to. It works best when freshly applied and then heating the bed up. Letting the Ponal layer drying over night and using it then works not nearly as good.

[@jfaurbo]

Love your Videos. This one is great but I am wondering if it isn't out of date; would love to see an updated version of this video.

[@vkoskiv]

Is an inductive sensor autolevel good to compensate for a slightly bowed aluminium heated build platform?

[@3dprintwiz378]

Hi Thomas, I like your vids a lot coz it helps me get good prints. I have a question though. I do not have any warping problems during printing with abs, but as soon as the print is done and when the part is cooled off, my part warps. I am currently printing a 5mm thin large sheet. I hope you could help me with this. Thanks.

[@3dprintwiz378]

Thanks Thomas I will try that solution out. I think you are in the right track, coz I usually put a fan right after I print ABS in order to cool it faster, maybe that is why I get warping. Once again thanks.

[@tanerschurter2139]

how well would this work, a heated mat stuck to aluminium sheet (~1/8 thick ),with kapton tape then glass sheet with kapton tape , glass sheet attached via binder clips, glass sheet is being used due to aluminium sheet that came with printer is warped. kapton tape on top of glass because i have been printing on it. and had little to no fails for adhesion, when i did just some glue stick to fix it. i would have personally like to use a thicker sheet of aluminium that is machined flat but not sure if i can afford that with kapton take. my printer is a solidoodle 3, bed is attached with 3 counter sunk screws and springs to allow leveling.

[@SchwettyBawls]

It takes a really long time for my bed to warm up. Is there a cheap and easy way to maybe insulate the underside to speed up this process?

[@magnuseriksson4697]

hi a small question. If you can use several small heat beds under an aluminum bed in order to get a larger heat bed, that I ask this is that I have not found larger heating plates for what I am going to build.

[@bigx9963]

How would you configure the thermistor(s) or connect heated beds for multiple heated bed for a larger surface? i.e. 500mm x 550mm printing surface. I am looking for off the shelf vs custom made

[@reluttr2]

If I went with the silicone heater method... would it be possible to use 3mm glass ontop of the aluminum plate for ease of removal? Or would there not be enough heat transfer to be viable?

[@russellpurkey2555]

+Darkmastergrey Solidoodle Press comes with Silicone bed heater on Aluminum Plate and glass on top of that. Works fine, slow to heat tho.

[@SuperCozMick]

Hi Thomas, Love your very professional and informative videos, please keep them coming. Any chance you could do a guided tour of your "go to" printer at home, highlighting the main features, mods and design decision for adopting the mods? My Prusa i3 has evolved a little over time but I find myself wanting more control and will probably overhaul the entire rig soon to accommodate some of the features you have vlogged in detail over the last 12 months or so. Thanks Mick

[@TRCCtv]

Hey Tom, i am hoping you could help me figure out what i need to wire a 110vac bed on to my melzi board... currently i have a pcb board, i have tried insulating it, adding a 12v relay to power it directly from a way over powered psu, still cant get it to push 100c... so it's time for an upgrade, but as you suggested i think it would take strain off the PSU to get a 110v... my issue is figuring out how to wire it in, i assume it would just be an ACDC relay of some sort.. just wanted your expert opinion.

[@TRCCtv]

It's all good, i got it figured, thanks for the videos tom, keep it up. if anybody wants to know, here's the part number for the relay G3NA-210B-DC5-24

[@MattTodman]

Hi. I'm looking at upgrading my Printer to a 300 x 300 aluminium plate heatbed, heated with a silicon heat mat. I would use the aluminium as the build surface. I was planning on using 6mm aluminium plate but I'm wondering if 5mm would be ok. I'm concerned about warping. I expect temp to get up to 150 deg c. Any comments?

[@shibbleswentworth]

Tom, on my Prusa i3, the heated bed doesn't respond to my set temp (always heating) but the thermistor works fine. Any idea how the setting function may be bypassed? Couldn't find anything on Google.

[@shibbleswentworth]

yes, im wondering if the kits lack of a bed relay would not enable the control? Although that's the way it shipped and I assume they wouldn't do that on purpose.

[@aaronstrome2042]

is there a way of putting mounting holes in the silicon pad.?

[@seeingblind8]

Hi Tom I purchased one of these heated beds, PCB Heated Bed MK2B For Mendel 3D Printer Hot Bed 120*120mm 12V.. It has a 5 wire connector on it, I am trying to figure out, how I would wire this to ramps 1.4.. The connector 5 pins have.. - Heat , +12v , SIG, 5V, GND, Please any help on this would be great..

[@ACZandor]

Really interesting. But you said you plugged 2 heated beds on a printer; how did you do that?

[@jllinem01]

How would I make out with a Polycarbonate sheet on top of the heater bed? Has this been tried?

[@colsoyeti1]

Hi Tom, Happy new year and I wish you the best of 2021! This has been a great educational video for me and I can't thank you enough. You have saved me some money because I was about to buy some pcb beds for my delta builds since they seem to be cheaper and there is no mention on warping issues. I will now look at the aluminum option to buy verses build yourself.

[@RichardEricCollins]

I have a glass bed on my Pursa i3 I built. Although it gives me a good flat surface but I struggle to get anything to stick. I am using a Borosilicate Glass 3mm think and a MK2A RepRap hot bed powered by a PC power supply heated to 50c. I have to use painters blue to get it to stick, but this is hard to remove. Any tips???

[@marshj6594]

My printing manufacturer is telling me I should not place an aluminum sheet on top of my mk1 heated pcb because it dissipates heat off the bed to quickly, and that loss of power would be stressful on my electronics to keep supplying energy. I thought this was strange considering the 12v, 30amp psu. What is your advice? I want to use an inductive sensor so an aluminum sheet would be the best.

[@enriquematos6461]

Hi is it normal that the heated bed from prusa takes more than 20 min to reach 105 degrees? I have not measured exactly the time but it is a lot...

[@MrLelopes]

Hey Tom. I am looking in your old videos cause my heated bed just can't pass the 70 celsius, it used to work just fine... any video in particular i should check?

[@thegreatestmoo]

What would you recommend for a 24x24" print bed? I bought and returned 2 sheets of MIC6 cast precision ground plate both were not very straight at all. About 0.8mm off over the whole span. I'm thinking of just going with glass on top of the uneven aluminum plate. Borosilicate glass I cannot find at 24" thicker then 1/8th which would be wayy too thin. Do you think just regular glass would work? 3/16th thick or maybe 1/4th? I also cannot get a hold of any local companies that would precision grind the aluminum plate even flatter... Kind of stuck with what to do.

[@huizhang6614]

What thickness of aluminum plate do you recommend for making heatbed? Either for 215 mm X 215 mm and 300 mm X 300 mm.

[@Gigih676]

Thanks, but what about PEI ? I've seen many discussions about this material and i guess i'm interested to know if it worth the money

[@Grevan09]

I am having troubles making my silicone heatmat stick to my custome milled surface alluminium plate. Any suggestions on how to mate them without using glue and such stuff?

[@Grevan09]

Roland P. Okay, I realized now, after watching a video guide on how to install a silikonbed onto a printerbot simple, that my silikonbed was actually missing a doublesided tape to it... great...

[@lkruzan]

Hi Tom, I'm building a mega printer with a 24"x36" heatbed and will use a cluster of 6 300mm x 300mm aluminum heaters under the 1/4" heatbed. All switching will be via electronic relays. All that is easy for me, but what I'm not sure about is how long it will take to heat this 24x36 inch bed up to temp? Do you have any advice?

[@lightshadown]

One word my friend, you will have massive hot and cold spots on that one, i recomend you to add a pic just to messure all the heaters and make sure wich one is lacking of current, that way you can increase the current on that one and compensate on the others, thats only my opinion, cheers.

[@daveyknowlton8030]

what about the mats? one of the first thing i did with my new tevo was puncture the mat with a screwdriver trying to get the part off. i'm not sure but it seams to be a mat aluminum bed with a stick on surface? any help would be apreated. thanks.

[@VLeong]

i need to make a large heated bed like 40 x 40 cm for abs without PCB heatbed its possible to do it??by the way can share how can i do it using resistor...i have no idea...thx

[@Adc4win]

thank you for the video but there is one question in my mind can we print PLA directly on the heatbed or we must use some isolation ?

[@techdiyer5290]

If i connect a 110V silicone heated bed to 24V will it work like a 24V bed?

[@AbdulHaseeb-pp2kb]

I implemented kaptone tape on heatbed and printing, but PLA is not staying in its position, it moves with extruder's nozzle what should i do?

[@nosmokenojoke08]

sorry to hear about your voice man hope that gets better. apart from that the towned down video was plesant to lisin to. im building a i3 my first one and its fustrating with so many different ways to do it out there it runs me in circles i have a acrillic with way to many tiny screws and nuts to count. you videows help in a big way to understand everything. thankyou and merry christmas

[@MosheKashani]

Hi Tom, you say .6 watts per cm^2 does that factor thickness or material. I'm planing to use 6mm (or so) aluminum with 2.5mm glass on top at 330x330mm (yes inductive sensors do work through glass "I've tried it"). Will 700 watts work? Isn't there a specific amount of energy need per gram per celsius per material?

[@wasabie2002]

***** Is it possible to cut the silicone heater mats? I have a nonstandard build plate shape (eg not round, not rectangular).

[@crowveg]

Can I just stick it to the bottom of the heated bed that is on my printer right now. Anet a8.

[@m00barknay]

Can they be use in reverse? Like to charge a phone? I plan to put some on the back of my solar panels to boost my energy intake

[@brian3276]

No, these heating elements won't generate power if you heat them.

[@luketimpani6257]

I have a 12v 20A power supply and my RAMPS 1.4 takes 5A and 11A. What's the best way to get 24V to the heated bed without damaging any of the components?

[@tinkerduck3824]

Luke Timpani For instance I use for my current printer a 24 V LED power supply for a 24 V heater mat and use a DC solid state relay for switching (I attach it to my RAMPS 1.4 board like a heater). My RAMPS board gets 12V from a 24V-->12V DC DC converter. Maybe there are easier and cheaper ways (by the way, if you want to use a solid state relay for DC current, ensure that it is a DC relay, AC relays don't work on that). One last thing, the LED power supplies I know need still to be wired. Since it also involves mains power I have involved a colleague who has the profession to handle such stuff...be careful and Good Luck.

[@lightshadown]

hey, have you used borosilicated glass + PEI sheet for bed adhesion? whats yur toughts about it? thanks in advance

[@seeingblind8]

Hi Tom, thanks for the video. I bought a heat be for my 3d printer, but the heat bed is to big for the frame of my diy printer, can I cut the heatbed down to size?

[@benjaminschippers3536]

Hi Tom, Do you have any suggestions on what to use to stick the silicone heat mat to the aluminum plate? im sorry if you mentioned this in the video and i missed it

[@supernielsen1223]

I have looked a bit at this and i decided to get a 220v 600w heated silicone pad.. :) But then i immediatly started thinking HOW will you adjust and control the temperature on this when you are using mega2560 and ramps 1.4 ? :) I would also like to know if you have to put something on the back of the heated pad, to avoid bearings and the suff underneath to get heated up.. :) I have a prusa i3 hephestos :) Looking forward to your answers :)

[@supernielsen1223]

***** thanks very nice and fast reply i just subscribed.. :) I were just afraid i would melt the pla underneath, but if i take i bit of the height, and get a bit more air in between and cover is with some cork, i should be good to go :) Again thanks :)

[@Lucas_sGarage]

i have a anet e10 and my question are i can up the voltage from 12v to 16v and dont burn it?

[@jarodhohl861]

how do you adhear the silicone heating pad to the aluminum plate? I might have simply missed it.

[@jhwblender]

Thanks for providing the link for the heated pads. Where can you get the milled and planed aluminum sheets?

[@symptommono903]

I did struggle a lot to solder wires to aluminum black heat bed c is there any proper way to do it ;)?

[@mariusb6035]

What kind of adhesive (tape, glue, silicone paste) do you use to adhere the silicone heater mat to a glass plate ? I'd need some tape that's available in germany at best.

[@mariusb6035]

+Thomas Sanladerer my mat came with double sided tape attached to it, but the cover on the second side of the tape got loose during the shipment and there were some air bubbles between the mat and the tape. Therefore the tape wasn't as sticky as it needed to be and secondly the air expanded while heating, which caused big parts of the tape to get loose additionally. Therefore I've decided to remove the tape completely. I would now either order new high temperature double sided tape, or I'll try out silicone paste/glue.

[@quelsunday]

Hello, I want to mount an aluminum bed (420x460 mm) but I don't know what thickness i should use and also which heater mats. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you

[@TheDIMONART]

Thomas, i doing my first steps in 3D printing with diy printer which have 500mm x 500mm bed, but without heated element. Is it possible to print with PETG and PLA without heated bed?

[@My_Legs_Are_OK]

Hi Tom. I have some questions: 1.Do you print directly to the aluminum plate? 2.Does material stick to it well? 3. Can I use steel instead of aluminum? Thank you.

[@PSNplayer89]

I have just installed an aluminium mk3b on my printer, I use 24V but the heat up time is still quite slow. I have read on the reprap wiki that you can connect the 24V to the 12V tabs for faster heat up times, what do you think? I have also read other people connecting 24V to an 12V aluminium mk3b using a solid state relay in between. Would simply using 24V on the 12V be a safe enough option?

[@PSNplayer89]

+Thomas Sanladerer Thanks for the reply, I have a 600W powersupply so I should be good on the power side. What do I have to check on my ramps so I know it can handle it? I will probably have to add some cooling to the mosfets.

[@PSNplayer89]

+Thomas Sanladerer Okay, is there anyway I can make the Ramps board handle it?

[@RodrigoRodrigues_info]

+Cold_Fox89 I have a very similar setup (mk3) and I run 24V through 12v connerctors, using it in the 24v was taking forever (more than an hour) so i decided to run on 12v, I can heat my bed in under two minutes (120ºC) and I've been using it for about a year without problems. Warnings: If you just connect 24v to the ramps you will break the fuse and if you short the fuse you will burn the transistor that controls the bed (I tried it, it locked closed and destroyed my bed) You need to use a 12V relay to activate the 24v bed... also I tried it in mk2 and mk224v and destroyed both beds, it need to be an aluminum bed for this to work

[@PSNplayer89]

+Rodrigo Rodrigues I just got my solid state relay installed and it now heats up from 20C to 110C in under 4 minutes. Would be a bit faster if I didn't have a sheet of glas over the bed but I can't get my prints to stick to aluminium.

[@garreth123]

Can you use copper plate instead of aluminium? Does it make sense?

[@BlueXorcist19]

what would be a good way to build an enclosure? ...i built a simple enclosure but my e3d had cooling issues (i figured it would)

[@senilemonkeypie]

Hello Thomas, you mentioned the e3d v6 method of putting a thermistor into the aluminum bed, can you elaborate a little bit? the picture looks like a hole was milled and tapped into the bed, thermistor inserted and screwed for tension. Is that correct? is there a special thermistor needed for this setup?

[@senilemonkeypie]

Thomas Sanladerer thank you! I'll likely be implementing this on my printer. I enjoy watching your videos and really enjoy that the captions are accurate!

[@mauriziofrigenti5544]

Hello man your tips about 3d printers turn out very very precious for me . However , i got a problem with my Anet a8 heatbed . I can print successfully with PLA filament,b ut i can't do the same with ABS and more awfully with Nylon .The problem is that the heatbed doesnt hold a stable temperature .It reaches the pre- heating temperature , i.e. i set 90 degrees celsius for the Nylon , but after 10% of printing the temperature falls down to 70 degrees and the object i am printing detaches by the heat bed and everythings mess up.Tried to change DC power pack from 20A to a 50A but the result is the same ,dropping temperature after 10% of printing done.WHY ?

[@LegitLeeVelez]

There is no sound on this video IDK why because I looked at a lot of different videos that you made and the all have sound!

[@misu_studio]

您好 想问一下如果PCB加热板上加铝板， 300mm*300mm的规格，需要厚度多少的铝板比较合适，谢谢啦。

[@rcjoseb]

Great info. Feel better and merry christmas!

[@thomascard6701]

Hi Tom , my name is also Tom. I've bought both the Keenovo thermostat A/C control unit & the heated bed for my cr-10 310mm x 310mm but I purchased each of them seperately (IDK if that makes a difference in the wiring as in # of wires in each of them) The only KZbin videos i can find shows connecting the keenovo heat bed to the CR-10 control box along with a solid state relay but they never show anything about connecting to the keenovo control unit! I havent been able to find any help on wire diagrams! I was hoping may be able to help me or atleast point me in the right direction to figure out how to wire the heat bed to the keenovo control unit & whether or not it has to be connected to the CR-10 control box for anything?? Thanks Tom C

[@misan2006]

I have been using with success aluminium beds with series of four 0,33ohm/25W power resistors (brand name resistors will last forever, no name only a few months).

[@schwarzarne]

+Thomas Sanladerer But you are flexible with the size of your bed. Thats my problem right now because I am planning to build a printer from scratch with a big print volume and I cant fit a fixed sized bed heater.

[@janjochims4885]

Hi. I make a Dia. 400mm heatbed for a Delta. Do you know the best way to conect it, I think I go for the 220V and a relay maby a exturn controller. A lot now make bigger 3d printer and then need bigger heatbed so we need a guide with "relay type, watt, 12v vs 110/220v. and so on. Thx for a great channel...

[@jimngugk4741]

Hi if I'm using aluminium heat bed do I need to use any masking tape so call blue tape or not ? tks :)

[@jimngugk4741]

Hi Thank you for your info sir :)

[@jimngugk4741]

Or can I use glass on it ?

[@Flatos90]

Hi Thomas , nachdem ich nun mein Heatbed installiert habe . Habe ich folgendes Problem , nachdem mein Heatbed 110°C für den Druck erreicht hat und mein Hotend beginnt aufzuheizen , schaltet sich mein Drucker ab bzw. er hört auf zu heizen. Dies geschieht bei etwas über 140°C Hotend , bei PLA gibt es keine Probleme bei HB 60°C und HE 190°C

[@Flatos90]

Nein keine Meldung , er zeigt auch weiterhin Heating an

[@flybywire5866]

***** Das hört sich so an als ob das Netzteil überlastet ist. 110° liegt 90° über einer angenommenen Raumtemperatur von 20°, während 60° nur 40° drüber liegt. Folglich benötigt 110° deutlich mehr Strom um die Temperatur zu halten. Wenn dann das Hotend dazu kommt könnte es der thermische Überlastungsschutz des Netzteils sein der da zuschlägt. Das die Konsle noch funktioniert passt allerdings nicht zu der Theorie, es sei denn du hast den Drucker über USB angeschlossen. An meinem Drucker habe ich einen Raspberry Pi mit Octoprint, der Pi versorgt den Controller im Drucker über USB mit Strom, auch wenn der Drucker noch nicht angeschaltet ist. Auf diese Weise wäre das angedachte Szenario möglich.

[@Flatos90]

Flyby Wire dann wird es sich um eine Überlastung des Netzteiles handeln , denn ich habe das Board über USB am laufen ! Eigentlich sollte das Netzteil genug Power haben . Ich werd es testen . Danke

[@hathalud]

I ordered my first 3d printer the other day and am anxiously awaiting it's delivery.... anyways... It's a Prusa I3 kit with a current build volume of 8" cubed... Later on down the line I'd like to upgrade the build volume to be probably 16" in either the X or Y axis... I think the Y axis would be easier... So my question: upgrading the build volume, would I need another heater PCB or would the one be sufficient? I suspect it's not, based on your double PCB in the video...Thanks in advance! Love your videos for the fair and honest info!

[@Dally_Sparkles]

Hi i'm trying to find heater mat that i can plug into a wall socket 230-240V with a controller ideally. My existing printer REP RAP is a Bits from Bytes printer(doh, no wonder they no longer exist) the printer never came with a heater mat and is impossible to print with so I'm trying to upgrade it as i has been collecting dust... i'm not at all Electronics Savy so i wouldn't be able to make one that wasn't dangerous.

[@markdoumas4101]

Hi Tom, thanks for a very well-done channel on 3D printing! You provided a figure of 0.6 w/cm2 for a recommended heated build plate power density when printing ABS. Does this assume the heated build plate is uninsulated on the bottom? I'm working on a design for a largish printer and finding out that most/all of the power budget (USA 120 VAC @ 15A) will be required just to get the heated build plate up to temperature. Is your thinking that a well insulated heated build plate bottom would result in lowering the 0.6w/cm2 significantly?

[@psemeq]

Thomas, do you suggest using ceramic/thermostranser cpu paste - this could help even out the temps between pcb heater and aluminum sheet bed. Awesome work mate. Greetings from a neighbor at Poland ;)

[@firearmsstudent]

I just bought a handheld IR thermometer and check the surface of the glass directly.

[@firearmsstudent]

Thanks! Did not know that...

[@doctor49152]

Did KZbin remove the audio to this video? I've tried 3 different browsers on 2 computers and i hear nothing.

[@karandex]

What about perfboard as surface used in afinia or zortrax