I BUILT A HEATED BED AND IT BLEW A FUSE - GIANT 3D PRINTER BUILD PT. 3

[@jasonchaney5382]

Have you considered a counter weight system for the bed? 80% of the bed weight should save those resin gears while still maintaining downward pressure on the belts. Then you only have to worry about the weight of the print. Can't wait to see what you print on this monster.

[@buzz1ebee]

You can get solid state safety relays which fail safe. With that much power I'd definitely consider using those instead. The thermal fuse is probably worthwhile as well, but if one of those blows you'll have to pull the whole heater pad and insulation off to fix it.

[@lifeai1889]

actually he should use thermal switch instead its reuseable cuz control board can fail and keep relay on

[@Chris-rg6nm]

How are you dealing with warping on a sheet that big and thin?

[@mausball]

SSRs are not truly fail safe in any form. I deal with them professionally, and no compaince body on earth will approve them in a fail safe capacity. The only legally approved safety systems for SSRs are high limit cutoffs (capillary tube or thermostat style) or an approved control system (similar to a medically approved software system, or an approved mechanical control) with a second element like a mechanical relay.

[@cleosynthesis]

@@mausball I'm sorry but I can't aggree with that! Not every SSR is built the same. Have a look at Crydom 84134000 for example, that is NO SSR so when they fail the circuit is open. The fact that you "deal with them profesionally" doesn't really mean anything.

[@mausball]

@@cleosynthesis Nowhere is that certified as an approved fail safe item. I've used that part number, and a bunch of other high reliability SSRs. They can't pass alone, partly because they cannot offer a dual pole shutoff, but partly because of a fundamental nature of the triac inside.

[@Vivishka]

Awesome ! Suggestion : when using PWM to heat the quadrants, you can alternate them. If you use bellow 25% PWM, running 1 2 3 4 sequentially will never draw more than 1 quadrant worth of amps

[@florianhinsch4912]

The energy you will need to heat up the area will be the same regardless of PWM strength. If U use 25% PWM it will take 4x the time to heat it up

[@mikoajandrzejewski259]

@@florianhinsch4912 but when you synchronize PWM with zero crossing on AC power, then it should work:)

[@florianhinsch4912]

@@mikoajandrzejewski259 i didnt said it wouldnt work. but if you use 1/4 of the power at any given time you could just use less powerfull heaters.

[@canonicaltom]

@@florianhinsch4912 You're missing the point. Let's say you are running them at 75%, which is close to the 80% in the video. If you PWM them all at the same time, you are pulling the full current for 75% of the time, then no current for 25% of the time. If you stagger them instead, you are still pulling the same average power, and so producing the same heat, but now you are pulling no more than 3/4 of the full current. Meaning that you get the same heating in both cases, but in one case you can easily blow the breaker, but in the other case you never do.

[@marsgizmo]

this printer is awesome 🤘😎🤘 the next iteration you have to run it via 3 phase AC 😂

[@mahmga1]

As always Ivan it is a pleasure to see your process, honest mistakes, and especially the willingness to GO BIG! Keep it goin!

[@mattdog01]

Blowing fuses are a sign of a good time. Great job Ivan.

[@3DPrinterAcademy]

I think this is your best series yet!

[@CoolAsFreya]

I'm loving watching the whole process of building and problem solving this project, keep it up!

[@Smuli85]

You can get thermal fuses lower temperature. Correct way to connect wire is crimp connection.

[@craftkov]

what extruder do you want to install? pellet?

[@loutorres0608]

Perfect solution for a large scale printer. Nice work Ivan!

[@marc_orso7058]

cada vez que veo un video tuyo quedo alucinado, creas maravillas.

[@maciekgaa5215]

So underrated. AMAZING video

[@deth3021]

Would quadrant hearing not cause the glass to break?

[@PeetHobby]

Normally you use heatsink on leads of the fuse when soldering a temperature fuses, so heat don't get to the fuse when soldering them.

[@spoon1272]

Or an alternative would be to crimp connectors onto the fuses, so no soldering is needed.

[@Creative_Electronics]

Nice video! I love the marks on the bed you've drawn!

[@MiriadCalibrumAstar]

hes spanish right? quite rare seeing someone from this country do this kind of content, finally someone doing good content. Mucho cariño desde españa, sigue creciendo!

[@3DMusketeers]

As always Ivan, this thing is AMAZING! Really over the top awesome! I appreciate how you leave the fails in there as well, keeps it real for the average users! Keep Making Awesome buddy!

[@Mehecanogeesir]

Awesome part of the build as usual! Looked like putting on the glass was such a proud moment. Best wishes for the printer! Looking forward to XY axis!

[@MarkEichin]

Very educational (I did not see the half-wave problem coming, it sounded clever at the time!) but also the installation of the adhesive heaters and insulation was *very* satisfying, no wrinkles or alignment problems, that takes a lot of care :-)

[@t3ddi]

I just love seeing you build stuff and the way you troubleshoot and fix things along the way. You also have such a great sense of humor. Can you perhaps show how you design stuff like this? I would love to learn more about the design process.

[@illusivec]

Wow man this thing is huge. Good job mate! However, I doubt your idea of only heating 1 quadrant at a time will work. You're pumping heat into aluminum. One of the best heat conducting materials out there. I'd be surprised if by the time active quadrant gets to 60C, the other quadrants wouldn't reach 50C+

[@coreymac2381]

I can’t wait to see what you are going to print on that huge printer.

[@blake_schwanke]

Really enjoyed this video Ivan! I'm excited to see this project up and running.

[@remnl]

amazing project. in a positive way you are the crazy professor. your channel deserves more subscribers . you not only make amazing things your also are very open to show any mistakes. keep up the good work

[@graealex]

Maybe this is a situation where instead of using the cheap Chinese SSRs that fail closed, you should use one with built-in protection. Also not a big fan of the in-line rectifier diodes under heat shrink. They could get quite hot. And I'd generally keep to the European color coding for mains cabling. Particularly for PE, it is compulsory. Colors are blue for neutral, brown, black and grey for live, and green-yellow for PE. And I personally feel like the printer should have it's own GFCI. For PE you should use a multimeter, and check that resistance between metal parts and the PE in the power cord is always well below one Ohm. I would also wire the heating in a way that it is failsafe. So even when the control board gets stuck with the PWM, or an SSR fails closed, the bed should never reach destructive temperatures (or blow fuses). Otherwise I wouldn't let it print unattended.

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

I agree basically with all that you said. I didn't have the proper wiring at hand at the moment so I went with what was going to work but it will be changed before putting the machine into production but not because color coding (which is important, I'm not dismissing that) but because the gauge is the incorrect one in every single cable in there. It will barely work for testing but it doesn't have the safety margin required. This is a machine that I'm designing and building along the way so mistakes and improvisation are a part of the process and once the video is uploaded a source of knowledge as I also learn from the comments 👊

[@graealex]

@@ivanmirandawastaken My biggest fear here is that the max power is well above the power required to sustain temperature. If the control board and thermal fuse fails, and the heating keeps going, it will eventually heat up the metal frame to a point that your 3D printed parts will melt. So the quality of the thermal fuse is really important, and I'd test that behavior. I personally would try if wiring two heating mats in series gives you already enough power for sustained printing. Or even better, use heating mats that have PTC built-in. Although not sure if they exist in the required temperature range. Water beds use them for example, as overheating would be quite catastrophic.

[@thegeek3295]

Its looking so good! Build quality is exceptional. Well done Ivan. Keep going it will to be great..

[@Nine-009-p9c]

Muy chulo lo que esta haciendo....

[@MrExo_3D]

how long until actual glass is at temp, vs just sensor

[@ilia2178]

Year 2025: Ivan prints a house on his 25m x 25m bed 3D printer.

[@potato21206]

Nah he will print houses

[@TheMadJoker87]

"you wouldnt download a car" ivan: "hold my beer..."

[@acidchoppa]

Ivan: It’s funny you mention that

[@TDOBrandano]

You can, and probably should, crimp the thermal fuses. And sleeve them with glassfiber sleeves, held in place against the heated surface with an aluminium P clip. Look at an electric hot plate for reference.

[@TheNextDecade]

I'm in love with this build! Excited to see you throw the extruder on this mean machine.

[@jtcustomknives]

I build heat treatment ovens and I would highly recommend mounting those SSR to an aluminum heat sink. Heat will kill those.

[@xander7462]

1.21 gigawatts?! Yer mad! 😄

[@first-thoughtgiver-of-will2456]

Awesome project! I wonder if you can place a 3D printed tuned mass dampener on those cross cable tensioners. Maybe even tie in with Klipper and use an accelerometer to parametrically set the tuned mass dampeners?

[@luciflash]

In stead of the thermal fuse you can use a bimetal probe that's normal closed. You can find them in various temperatures.

[@stephenjohnson4955]

This is generally discouraged because a thermal fuse is meant to be a last defense against a printer failing for safety issues. A self-resetting switch will cycle back on after a cooldown may occur, but without the issue being resolved. One possible scenario is the bed overheats, the switch trips, but the adhesive of the bed is now weakend, and the heater mat seperates. Now, with the switch restting, the heater mat reheats, but is no longer attached to the bed, and is a significant fire hazard. It's a common question, someone else explained that line of reasoning to me as well.

[@MCsCreations]

Brilliant, Ivan! Fantastic work!!! 😃 Looking forward to the next part! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@superowl91]

will the insulation not compress under the weight of your prints and ruin your print height/levelling?

[@temyraverdana6421]

Ingenious, what else! Thanks

[@makers_lab]

I'd FLIR the bed to see how uniform the heating is, and if possible, adding a low res thermal camera sensor such as an MLX90640 might prove useful.

[@buildersmark]

Magic Blue Smoke!!

[@paulladdie1026]

Ivan, Your a crazy genius 🙂

[@MrHeHim]

Propane(gas) water heater and run the water channels under the bed 😅 you can use an adjustable thermostat (similar to one like in a car) to regulate the flow and control temperature. Or just use that to blow warm air (indirectly) at the bed to warm it up and use electric to keep/stabilize the temperature.

[@Hobypyrocom]

heating only 1/4 of the heated bed, wouldnt that produce problems? it will warp the frame and might stress the glass...

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

We'll find out I guess

[@Hobypyrocom]

@@ivanmirandawastaken 😂👍 hope everything will go just fine, good luck...

[@SteveSiegelin]

Now you have a giant centerpiece shop heater 🤣... I cannot wait to see the first print! What we have seen you accomplish with little printers will pale in comparison to this monster!

[@RomanoPRODUCTION]

Gracias Ivanito :)

[@deekman78]

The lack of load switching due to no zero crossing (DC loads) has bit me more than once. It's comforting to see someone else make that mistake. :D

[@hotshot7000]

Dude that's incredible! I've been following you for quite some time now and you inspire me to one day build my own 3D Printer!...... Buuuuut for now I'll leave that up to you haha, looking forward to the next stage!

[@MrPistolero911]

assuming you are printing with PLA you should consider the parts under the heating bed. it will deform over time. but if not, great job buddy!

[@8BitLife69]

Yea, hopefully he's not printing all his printer parts in PLA. They ALL should be ABS.

[@blake_schwanke]

You would be surprised what pla can take. I certainly was on an all pla printer I made.

[@pauhull]

@@8BitLife69 abs is shit

[@MrPistolero911]

@@blake_schwanke I had some prints got deformed just by sitting in a room for few days. and it wasnt that hot. and since then i stopped using pla all together. i also helped a friend for her art instillation, and hers was deformed as well from keeping it with her for just 3 days before the exhibition. i just dont want to take the risk, even tho i tried few different PLA brands.

[@blake_schwanke]

@@MrPistolero911 Interesting. I do agree abs is great if you've got a capable machine. 90 percent of what I print is abs on my voron.

[@BLBlackDragon]

And Ivan let's the magic smoke escape. At least you were able to compensate without changing boards. The quadrant control on the bed is a good feature. Not sure I would have thought of that. This thing is moving along nicely. Now for a dual extruder on a 1mm nozzle. ;)

[@DumahBrazorf]

Wait. How is the bed leveled? And how it keeps level while printing? The insulation foam should compress adding weight on it while printing.

[@Pro_DRIFTZ]

most likely he will use a probe and bed mesh to level the bed also each corner of the bed has its own stepper to compensate

[@gabrielalonso426]

Spectacular, I really like your videos, Greetings

[@radry100]

How are you gonna replace the fuse once it pops? Putting them under the pad wasn't a good idea.

[@ledfed1912]

You are amazing man.

[@MrBlakBunny]

SO whats after this, a print in place tank? would actually love to see an updated mini-tank build :)

[@mirag3304]

Is there any chance that the glass part of the bed could crack/break/shatter when only using 1 heating pad because of the temperature difference with the rest of the glass?

[@PTEC3D]

Very cool! Err warm! One thing with SSRs I've found is that they have a non-negligible leakage current - enough to trip RCD breakers if you think there's no voltage.... Personal experience..... 🤣

[@willierants5880]

This printer is a monster!

[@alanturing8382]

One thing to consider would be a layer of insulation on top of the bed. You could cut it anyway you want. This has helped me get heated beds to temp faster, and you could even have pieces of insulation over beds you are not heating to protect the glass and aluminium from conducting heat away from the 1 quadrant you are using as fast.

[@olekaarvaag9405]

Is a three minute warmup phase a big deal though? With printing on this scale it would seem pretty insignificant compared to the time of the actual print. How long does it take on a typical printer? I have never owned a 3d printer so I'm not keyed in on what really matters and what doesn't.

[@alanturing8382]

@@olekaarvaag9405 on small beds that run 12v without an enclosure, it can take mine almost ten minutes. He is using engine block heaters, so they are probably about 230v. So for him,vit is less about heat up time and more about energy consumption.

[@jacquesb5248]

looking forward to the first print! a massive benji?

[@lolcec81]

Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.

[@joveaaron-real]

Hola Iván, me ha impresionado mucho tu impresora. En tu lista de reproducción me salen 3 videos que no están disponibles. ¿A qué se debe?

[@OliverKrystal]

Also, even putting glass doors and top would help preserve heat and keep the amp draw down.

[@steve_weinrich]

Very nice. You should consider testing components, wiring, connections, etc. in isolation before attaching to the circuit board.

[@oscaranderson1822]

That is a outstanding printer that you are making. When you get it done you can print a big wheel for adults... Do you ever sell the big printers that you make?

[@davidrenaud736]

Doing a great job

[@Aa-ron01]

Hi Ivan, quite impressed with your work. Just a thought for the bed heating, cut a removable insulation pad for the top too so you can heat that massive area faster with less power. I'm not familiar with 3d printing so I don't know if that's running throughout the build(i hope not) but if you're running that in a room, do your best to recapture the heat, that could be a bonkers amount of money to run.

[@TheTetrapod]

Typically you have to run the heated bed for the duration of the print, or else the glass contracting is liable to cause parts to detach.

[@Nathan69]

Omg YES IV BEEN WAITING FOR THIS

[@AndersJackson]

Great video as usual. 🙂 When heating up, you could start one or two at a time, so then it will not overload your switches.

[@Takuba89]

Love the Video. It looks like you have laid the heating plate directly onto the bed. Won‘t the insulation compress during prints, leading to inaccuracies?

[@tobins6800]

For initial heating, what about heating each quadrant to a temp over 60, say 65-70, then switch to another quadrant, and maintain the 60 as the other warms up, pausing the warming only long enough to get the maintenance temp. Or, cycle the warming sections, maybe 2 at a time, might take a bit longer, but, should allow for the draw needed, also, gives time for heat soak.

[@steprockmedia]

I love how clean your work is. Very tight and tidy workmanship. I also appreciate how you stay cool (at least on camera) when things go badly.

[@GregAtlas]

Where did you get those massive silicone heater pads?

[@sgsax]

Gonna need a really big glue stick for that bed... This thing is shaping up really nicely. I'm looking forward to a couple years down this line where you'll use this to make an even bigger printer. Thanks for sharing!

[@guillermocarpio5501]

U could try to use a vacuum bed for Part holding instead of the heated bed

[@philcopain56]

Crazy and Inspiring ;) As uusal Amazing work !!

[@x35gaming]

You should try wiring the bed in series-parallel (2 parallel banks of heaters in series).

[@BrainSlugs83]

what markers did you use that wrote on metal like that without just smearing right off?

[@romiolover6852]

Hi nice build.

At 1:22 I can see you have a three-phase outlet installed on the wall. So why don't you use two phases for the heating bed - I mean the L1 phase for the first two quadrants/heating pads and the L2 phase for another two quadrants/heating pads? As every phase is rated for 16A, it should solve your problem (btw, that's how 4-plate kitchen induction hobs are wired - they use two phases for the same reason)

[@josecarloscarrion3652]

Vaya crack estás hecho. Enhorabuena por tu buen trabajo. Es una pasada ver tus vídeos. Gracias por todo

[@franciscouribevera1589]

To heat the aluminum bed, can't you use the thermal cable that is installed in houses?

[@jeffmofo5013]

Use a heated water loop instead.

[@Ryan_Tidwell]

Trying to find simliar heating pad. Can you provide a link? Thanks.

[@joegroom3195]

I've never thought about the diode to split the power requirement. Maybe could have joined 2 heaters together on a single ssr and swapped polarity on one of the diodes to make it work, but you would have lost the ability to control all 4 heaters independently. Nice build! Can't wait to see it finished!

[@darekmistrz4364]

He should have went with 3-phase power

[@buckh6233]

This feels like a good candidate for multiple extruders. Could do a large nozzle paired with a small, or dual materials, or run 2 prints at the same time. assuming control works out.

[@rojitorroj9584]

Impresionante como siempre. Eres el puto amo

[@hbwh19]

Any reason why you don't switch between two pairs of heating pads to be on? Would that not draw the same as your half bridge rectifier solution that didn't pan out? Or for even more even heating, cycle them around and have two pairs on at all time like: 1, 2 On. 3, 4 Off; 2, 3 On. 4, 1 Off; 3, 4 On. 1, 2 Off; 4, 1 On. 2, 3 Off; Repeat till hot.

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

There's no option for that that I could find in the firmware.

[@hbwh19]

To bad. Anyway, great project. Looking forward to seeing it in fully working order.

[@Peter_A1466]

Was going to ask the same thing 😃

[@WoodmanFFM]

What is the font called that you used for the "Miranda" logo on the bed?

[@shaunmorrissey7313]

This is the first 3D printer I've seen that scares the crap out of me

[@yngndrw.]

It looks like you could have used your 3 phase supply for the heaters, just wire them up as single phase heaters and spread them across the different phases. You could for example have: L1 - 2x bed heaters L2 - 1x bed heater + motors L3 = 1x bed heater + hot end heater I wouldn't have soldered the heater wires together given their ratings - I'd have used a butt-crimp for the wire-to-wire joints and ring-crimps for the wire-to-SSR joints. I'm not convinced that the quadrant system will work properly as the aluminium plate will act as a heat spreader. I think it would have been more effective to have four separate aluminium plates with a small gap between them.

[@darekmistrz4364]

not using 3-phase is a big mistake. You can always combine 3phase into 1phase in build like this, but once you decide to go 1 phase, there is recreating half of wiring.

[@wimpie6009]

are you going to make the gantry corexy or regular Cartesian?

[@christophercandiotes3d889]

for the resin gears just mix a small amount of flexible resin with your normal resin to make it bit less brittle

[@nsvaluto48328]

How did you make those printed stencil templates is there a stl file out. Therr?

[@dgoddard]

You are too awesome! I have no clue why you don't have a million subs.

[@deckname5794]

Why didn't you print clamps for the glass? I almost heard it shatter while you thightend the screws

[@r3v3rs3r]

Now I'm waiting for a Miranda Armada since we already have a tank.... A battle ship would be interesting! 🤔

[@argusz]

if you only heat up half of the heated bed( or a quarter) wouldn't that that create tension in the glass between the hot and cold part and break it?

[@dennisfahey2379]

Great video. I saw those SSR's and knew you had an issue immediately. Interesting solution though. Will you ever do a plasma cutter project or a waterjet?

[@ebsigma]

me gustaría saber cuando acabes el precio de todo lo que te has comprado y tal :P "gran" proyecto.