3D Printing Mars Rover Drone Parts in HTNCF25 Carbon Fiber Nylon on the 22 IDEX v3

[@802Garage]

Good stuff! An actually useful video on tuning an advanced material for a purpose.

[@astroimagers]

That was like a free Udemy course.❤ Cool stuff! Thanks for sharing raw and realistic important experience/expectations.

[@spheretical3609]

One the best videos that I've seen on working with 3d printers period; thank you for producing this and providing the test samples. Doesn't matter what grade printer or material, this is a go-to for how to tweak for best results. Working through the support settings section brilliant!

[@oskarelmgren]

Great info on the process of making prints work!

[@iagmr]

thanks for sharing. learned cool stuff today. Lovin' the NPA.

[@MichaelJHathaway]

Thanks for the video Rob. --> Hobby print methods will vary, but for industrial prints; it is better to heat your filament (Nylon/PA6 just above Tg) in a blast oven for several days (not hours) before placing it into a vacuum. Only pull the vacuum down once and leave for at least 8 hours. If using a vacuum oven, heat your contents first before pulling a vacuum. Nitrogen purge in your vacuum oven is better. Post dehydration, place your filament in a container that heats it's internal temperature above ambient to stop moisture barrier. I keep my filaments 0.0-0.9% RH, any higher and I restart the process. IMO, vacuum ovens are inferior to blast ovens, I have used both.

[@MichaelJHathaway]

Also; re-spooling your filament onto Vision Miner metalic spools will yield much better results. They will allow you to dehydrate your filament at higher temperatures without spool deformation.

[@matyasiadam4656]

Loved it! It vas informative! Thank you!

[@Theroux1989]

Nylon need to be well dried otherwise the finish is ruff and it will string.

[@Mainstream818]

Great video. Keep them coming. When you tune and test the different section and then combine each technique for the full part, do you use part modifiers in prusaslicer specifically using blocks and layer height modifiers? Thanks

[@VisionMiner]

Ideally, we can have one profile setting through the whole part, but If we need to, yes, we'll use those settings -- like painting on supports, or blocking supports, etc -- PrusaSlicer has come a LONG way. Someties, you just need cooling fan on a certain spot, and the settings modifiers are awesome for that.

[@granthamilton6339]

3:34 I believe the problem is with nylon being hygroscopic and taking in extra moisture during the printing process

[@VisionMiner]

In our machine, the spool of filament sits inside the heated chamber, low-moisture by nature, and you can actually dry the filament in the chamber --- that's how we prevent moisture uptake during printing :)

[@villevaronen3655]

How about annealing?

[@VisionMiner]

For Nylon 6, you can anneal in the chamber, since the Tg is only around 70ºC -- for higher temp nylons, like this PPA (HTNCF25), you'll need an annealing oven.

[@miguelcruz470]

Nice videos, I only disagree with the support part, the machine is named IDEX22, yet you are not confident to use the second Toolhead and toolchanging capabilities, interesting

[@VisionMiner]

I believe I mentioned this in the video -- but it might be in the next video releasing (next friday). Dual extrusion is wonderful -- a fantastic tool to have. However, it's much more applicable to prototyping, or art -- because switching heads consumes so much time, for production applications, single-extruder is almost always better. Now, with that in mind, with many parts we use duplication/mirror mode, to double the output of the machine instantly, which can be very useful for hitting tight deadlines!

[@miguelcruz470]

@@VisionMiner can't wait for the video! Finally some good action, good work 💪

[@saobx3956]

It wet

[@JX02123]

Wet nylon prints like garbage. I print directly from a dryer when using nylon to avoid your bubbled up one

[@nicoleibundgut534]

Nice hardware but how can a price of 15k be justified if there are models around 1.5k which do almost the same.

[@AnnikaFPV]

Not really. At 1.5k you either get an idex or something with a heated build volume, but not both.

[@VisionMiner]

There's nothing on the market at that price point with anywhere _near_ the capabilities of this machine-- it's a segment of the market which is straddled by $40-60k machines and $150k-250k machines :)

[@MichaelJHathaway]

You can hobby print with printers in the $1.5K area, but not professional grade. And $15K printers are really just barely getting you into industry. The best printers are in the $250K range, have heated chambers that reach the 250C range and are just designed for accurate, reliable operation, day in and out.

[@saturnmedia1]

9:40 9:41 PLEASE tell me that is not the finished part, that bottom of the large part looks very bad. The gaps between perimeters, between the perimeter and infill too! Absolutely bad and it definitely needs tuned more.

[@ddegn]

Aren't those imperfections one of the problems when using supports? It sure seems like the interface layer with supports never looks as good as the rest of the print.

[@M.J.C.W.]

Too moist /wink