Can We 3D-Print a Usable Part with Carbon-Fiber Nylon?

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Today we're designing a real part and printing it in carbon-fiber nylon filament. (PA12-CF) We're making a bracket to mount a soundbar underneath the Samsung television I have mounted on the wall of my shop. 3D printing seems like an excellent process for this part, and PA12-CF filament seems like an excellent material. Let's test to see how strong it is and if there's something to all the hype. We'll design the part in Fusion 360 and print it on the QIDI.
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
The filament: QIDI Tech PA12-CF Carbon Fiber Nylon (Amazon*): amzn.to/3LylGyL
Tools used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
Aventor 8" DPS IP54 Caliper (Amazon*): amzn.to/3KNwWaV
Excelta Bent Nose Smooth Plier (Amazon*): amzn.to/3CFoIOL
Wera Kraftform Screwdriver Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2UzK6CL
Bondhus Metric Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3eqZzwb
Bondhus SAE Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3h9bJLZ
Chicago Latrobe HSS Short Letter Drill Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2PWx0dL
Chicago Latrobe HSS Short Number Drill Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2Qgss0S
Chicago Latrobe HSS Short Fractional Drill Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3mkmziD
Starrett 827A Edge Finder (Amazon*): amzn.to/38DGNPp
Starrett 6" Hook Rule Machinist Scale (Amazon*): amzn.to/37RUxVS
Noga Deburring Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2xMfiPz
R QIDI Technology X-CF Pro 3D Printer (Amazon*): amzn.to/3e1UBbM
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
00:00 Intro
01:10 The Application
02:25 Measuring the Foot Geometry
02:49 Modeling the Part in Fusion 360
12:54 Slicing for 3D Printing and Maximizing Strength
15:28 Printing Timelapse
15:51 Removing Support
16:26 Test Fit on the TV
16:50 Modeling the Stretcher Bar
19:05 Milling the Stretcher Bar
20:24 Final Installation and Testing
21:31 Conclusions
qidi autodesk fusion 360 tutorial

[@donteeple6124]

James your mastery of CAD never ceases to amaze me. I'm one of those OLD DOG machinists, jealous of how easy you make it look , yet with your teaching skills, I learn more and more each and every-time I watch, like so many others. Thank you for all you do for us.

[@lannywestgard6131]

Well put Don. James, thanks for all you teach me about Fusion 360. I learned AutoCAD in 2D. The transition to thinking in 3D has been a bit of a bumpy road, but the more I force myself to do it, the easier it becomes. My 3D printer runs almost 24/7. As such, Fusion 360 is always open ! I did invest in a space mouse, and love it to bits but don't seem to be as proficient as you with it. James, are you just running the out of the box configuration? Did you change any of the directions?

[@racerbob1166]

I really appreciate your Fusion360 CAD tutorials. I like that they are short little lessons vs the long lesson videos that are available. I've learned lots in a short period of time. Constraints, Projection, Offset Planes, and that Rib on a curved surface was awesome. This video was great to demonstrate the every day bracket solutions a lot of people want to make. Thanks!

[@theepeo8871]

Excellent video! I’m certain that PETG will be more than enough for this application, especially with the rib you added. Interested to see what you come up with testing!

[@itstallionman]

Great video, I really appreciate you taking the time to bring us along with you during the design phase. I can always use some fusion 360 tutorials.

[@ericsandberg3167]

I think one of the most powerful features in F360 is the use of projected geometry. Your use of this feature for making the rib was an elegant example of how powerful using projected geometry is and its a feature that lots of F360 users seem to struggle with.

[@drhender6943]

In place of where James used a projected geometry, he could have also used an intersect geometry to achieve the same result. One thing I really like about Fusion is that there are frequently different ways to reach the same (or very similar) result. But getting to see how someone else models things is great! I also found the tip about the ribs valuable.

[@ericsandberg3167]

@@drhender6943 that’s a good point about using the rib command…I thought he would enclose the geometry and extrude it, but using the rib or web command is even quicker…..F360 is a neat tool in that regard.

[@chuysaucedo7119]

I appreciate the process being shared from start to finish. The support /spine is something I hadn't thought about before but may incorporate in the future! Thanks for an excellent video

[@MrRctintin]

Really loving watching your channel, it’s helping me no end with learning F360. I have a Syil X7 CNC mill and a Prusa i3 Mk3s , so drawing more and more things now in CAD, them cam for the mill. Keep up the great work, and thanks for the time you put into making these videos for us guys.

[@joemcgarry1106]

Excellent video James. Your ease of use of the CAD software is amazing.

[@bradley3549]

While I appreciate the relative symmetry of the strongback/spine being in the center of the part, I suspect the strength would be functionally equivalent if that strongback/spine was off to one side - which would have eliminated the need for any support material under that feature.

[@blkhackr]

also possible that it could have had an angle that would have been able to print without support instead of 90deg off build plate, use a bit more material but probably not as much as the supports anyway

[@75keg75]

Yeah good idea. I try to do no support prints where I can as often the supports blemish the surface if you don’t get them right. I use Petg that sticks more than I think it should and if you space the support further away the part droops more. The designer on “out of darts” channel is apparently very good within supports - it would be nice to see a tutorial about his approach. Ie trial and error on each part, till he gets it right? Sadly every part will act differently due to weight, surface area, material and environmental changes like humidity etc. so I guess developing a bell curve of what works to minimize printing lots of (expensive) full-size tests is a good approach.

[@melgross]

Well, not necessarily. For example, if you need a support in the center of something, you would use a “t” beam, not an angle beam. The angle has a line of strength that’s asymmetrical. One side is stronger than the other. The T beam has equal strength on either side. The angle beam will tend to twist towards the flat side, whereas the T beam will tend to remain straight. That’s why virtually anything that needs additional support has that support in the middle. Yes, 3D printing may need extra support while printing, but it’s a small sacrifice for the proper support geometry of the part. You can look at shelf brackets, the center of the bracket is brought out for strength, not the side.

[@bradley3549]

@@melgross Given the fact that this part is supported from torque by virtue of the bar connecting them together, I'd say the difference between a T and an L shape, in this configuration, is not meaningful. Shelf brackets come in a lot of different varieties, and I have used designs that are have an L-shaped profile rather than T. It makes for a bracket that can be cut from a flat material and bent into shape easily. No welding and you can build a very heavy duty bracket this way. It really comes down to the purpose, and the economy of the manufacturing, and naturally aesthetics.

[@NabilTouchie]

Everytime you upload a video using fusion I get excited because I know for a fact that I will learn something new about it, and this time wasn't the exception! thanks!

[@19672701]

Always make cad look easy. Great video!

[@tavelkyosoba]

Pro-tip: add a 45 degree chamfer to the underside of features like that rib and they'll print without supports. Or just make the whole thing thicker, it's mostly emptying space inside, you're not saving much material by complicating the geometry like that.

[@staciedziedzic8706]

Hi James! Cool video! The bracket turned out pretty good! Always nice to see you and see what you are up to! Take care!

[@Dave-gf3kd]

I’m a Fusion360 user, and enjoyed your walk through of how you designed the part, I learned a few things from your approach, so thank you!

[@orange-micro-fiber9740]

Another tip I've been told, but haven't had opportunity to use much, is to model screw holes as tear drops with the ideal printing direction in mind. That way, you don't print unsupported overhangs, as the teardrops have 45 degree slopes at the top.

[@JohanFasth]

Good to see that fillets are used to minimize stresses. To many of these "learn to channels" totally ignore it and make parts that have stress points everywhere.

[@aardwolfweb]

Drives me crazy with parts from model repositories, too. I always end up adding a bunch of fillets, rounds, and chamfers. If I don't end up remodeling the whole thing. I even needed a flat-ish part once that had a recommendation to print it with one corner down and a ton of support. Just to change the layer line orientation to keep the tabs from breaking during assembly. All it needed were some fillets to breakup the double, opposing stress risers on either side of the root of the tabs. Printed just fine flat and the tabs were plenty strong.

[@JohanFasth]

@@aardwolfweb I hear you. I have never printed anything someone else has done. It's not worth it. Anyway, it's to fun to design myself.

[@aardwolfweb]

@@JohanFasth My kids wish I would stop trying to print other peoples' models. They say I complain about it too much. I just don't always have time to do it myself.

[@JohanFasth]

@@aardwolfweb I have to stand by your kid with this. The construction of what ever is so rewarding. 👍

[@mumblbeebee6546]

Really nice video, I don’t have the head space to learn CAD at this time, but you make it dance in a way that is inspiring and yet suggests that it is possible to learn :)

[@hannah9418]

This has inspired me to get into modeling on my own with only a varying amount of random skills like yourself. Currently have a custom speaker adapter for my car printing right now after a bit of tinkering. Love your videos!

[@twobob]

Looked good. Solid job

[@MoralRichMedia]

Man o Man! So happy to see someone using the same printing I have. Great video with Fusion as well.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Beautiful work.

[@JamesEggleston]

Cool video, I learnt some usefult and practical stuff right there!

[@johnmccanntruth]

That was a cool project, made for a fun video to watch! Having a 3D printer, but just a cheap one, the testing will be cool to see.

[@thomasvnl]

Nice, learned a thing or two about Fusion/CAD modelling too. Thanks!

[@McJiver]

Great software rundown.

[@c0ulter]

Hey James! I love your videos man! Thank you for sharing.

[@tcsyme]

James, thanks so much for a great video. It is your first that I've seen and I immediately subscribed. I'm relatively new to F360, and decided to follow your lead to learn more by drawing alongside you. I was proud enough to match your drawing, and just printed one in PLA to actually hold it in person. Assuming your sound bar doesn't weight 10s of pounds, I don't see any trouble hanging it with PLA brackets.

[@williambryce8527]

I would give this video a dozen thumbs up if I could! Well done and I learned stuff! Great Fusion work many thinks I did not know!

[@rodneykiemele4721]

Excellent Video,Thanks

[@dachr2]

Great video as always! That rib function in Fusion is quite brilliant - I would've ended up modeling all that by hand.

[@nateschmitz9827]

It isn't that groundbreaking, you could've simply extruded symetrically

[@johnpelitidis6297]

Thanks James... I'm getting my Qidi X Max 3 in 3 days. This video is exactly what I needed :)

[@mduvigneaud]

James, I love your amazing attention to detail.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

That is very good. Keep on keeping on.

[@Bianchi77]

Nice video, thanks for sharing it :)

[@hotfuzz1913]

Awesome work Sir

[@Myrulv]

And as usual: Interesting, enteraining and a lot to learn.

[@toddspeck9415]

Hi Clough42, I really enjoy watching your videos. Thanks for sharing your amazing knowledge. You might already know this, But I wanted to mention this. I installed a sheet of 1/8 inch poly carbonate on my 3d printer. It is the best thing I ever did to my printer. No more glue or hairspray. I also get the best surface finish on my prints now. I just clean it with windex. For me getting that perfect surface finish is the best thing. But not having to clean all the time is awesome as well. Thanks again for sharing your skills.

[@karlkiernan6863]

That was a really nice project. I liked the explaining whilst using the 3D software as it is very hard to see / understand all what you are doing as I am a beginner.

[@g.tucker8682]

As usual, the best CAD instruction on YT! (Don't feel obliged to move quickly or skip steps, boneheads like me will take all the help we can get). Would love to see a little paint or powdercoat on the steel. I know you don't need it there in the high-n-dry, but to me a project without a finish is unfinished. Thanks for another great video.

[@matthewjordan2147]

the way i watched you just mindlessly breeze thru that design made me very envious of your abilities. insane.

[@gravydog51]

I really enjoy your totally professional approach to everything you do. I am especially jealous of your facility with Fusion as I have extremely limited experience with it and really struggle to learn/retain the most basic operations. I'm 71, what can I say?

[@williambryce8527]

I have this same printer and Love it. Not fast but the parts come out awesome. Also use the QIDI PA12 CF filament.

[@paulojrg]

I believe that since you had the dimensions for the sound bar you could have made the parts to not extend beyond it and align the front face with the television but other from that it was a good job.

[@wastedblues2]

This is perfect timing. I've been tasked to find a new printer and been looking at the Creatbot or Modix for large prints with high temp materials. Support removal looks very nice from a few videos, and compared to a Stratasys F370 the extra volume is nice. We've seen improvements in printing using Simplify3D over Cura, but nothing beats GrabCAD print for SolidWorks native support, so curious how well PA materials print on hobby level software. Looking forward to more videos.

[@drhender6943]

I've used CF nylon and CF PETG filaments in projects with our high school robotics team and was very pleased with the resulting parts. I don't have any concrete measurements, but the parts felt more rigid/solid and help up well. I'm looking forward to your tests to help put real measurements to the parts from different materials.

[@joeldriver381]

Those printers work well. Nice design!

[@Ree1981]

I expected a video on creating a part, but got an excellent F360 tutorial instead. Thanks. :)

[@nf4x]

A rib in tension on the inside seems like an obvious win.

[@josephwilliamcosta]

My opinion is: you make the best content on KZbin. My only criticism is: I wish there was MORE.

[@whatbuttondoipush]

One of my favorite sayings is "You don't know, what you don't know." I had no inking of an idea how to use Fusion 360 or where to even start or what program to even use to design even simple projects. I've taken blueprint reading and still have my school book and this, THIS is something that I can understand. All the other videos I found are how to make a hand or a face or some other artsy project. Please make a whole course for Fusion 360!!!

[@cletusberkeley9441]

Great video James, as usual. I really need to get going and learn Fusion 360. I use AutoCAD 2007 and SheetCAM for my Plasma Cutter designs and other 2D drawings and Solid Works10 for my 3D print designs. CamBam is my choice for designs going on the CNC MiniMill. I think I just have a mental block going on when it comes to Fusion.

[@italogarcia1597]

Ótimo trabalho! O plástico ABS serve para esse tipo de peça também.

[@kitchenbriks3685]

I've been printing everything in pla+ and so far haven't had any issues with strength given enough infill for the job. I've made entire 1/8th scale rc race truck chassis out of it and beat the heck out of them without failures. Short of making gears pla+ is all you need.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

i have good luck with PLA 50% infill but i'm looking forward to your testing. thanks for sharing. i had to go with "shaper 3D" for cam app.

[@tt3233]

I have that same TV in my son's room. You are right the sound always seems to be louder in the direction away from you

[@VektorKnight]

I remember hearing about creep issues with nylon filaments. I only just started trying to print in nylon myself. Would be cool if you did a follow up on how the brackets have held up under the constant load of the sound bar ~7 months down the road now.

[@karlkirk6616]

How about a video on how you created and aligned the 2 color images on the earlier Qidi i-fast 3D printer.

[@Cybernetic_Systems]

Great video sir! I’m fairly handy with F360 but one thing I fail to understand is assemblies. Any chance you could do a bit of a tutorial video on those at some point? I’ve noticed you’ve used them in a few of your videos and you know what you doing with them.

[@jonathanfeist9821]

I'm in the same boat actually, I'm ok enough drawing the parts but assemblies are impossible. Solidworks ruined other cad packages for me

[@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994]

Check out Lars Christensen 's channel and search for 'Components' will get you some good clues on Bodies vs Components also then if you want to lock them in place or have them move relative to others then look at assemblies.

[@threedprintedmarinetechnol3330]

Carbon Fiber Nylon is by far worth the $$. I use it daily in an industrial environment making end use parts and tooling. All parts are made on a Markforged Mark Two.

[@RyanStone143]

Sabine's 1:25 channel is great!

[@RyanSmith-yy4sq]

As always great video! I really enjoy your Fusion tutorials. It is your fault though every time I project in Fusion I have to say to myself “P for project”. Lol thanks

[@billh308]

I'm not a licensed engineer, but I think the answer to the question is "modulus of elasticity". It's why a carbide boring bar is stiffer than a steel one, why an aluminum bracket will be stiffer than any plastic one, why any plastic part has flex in it.

[@_justgrant]

PETG would do just fine in this application, even PLA so long as your garage temp's don't get too high. CFN is great in a lot of applications that involve being in hot vehicles. I have designed a few parts that need to be on a dashboard in AZ heat and they do fine in CFN, but ASA they melt like crazy.

[@johnbradley5823]

I really like my hearing protection with bluetooth. I don't have to worry about pausing if I've got a really loud machine or how loud it is. Also the external microphones that give you super hearing are cool. A comparison video might be good.

[@yngndrw.]

I need to give some other materials a go, I only ever use PETg right now. For this particular part, I'd expect PETg or PLA to have worked just fine but for higher temperature parts or parts which will wear I can see nylon being beneficial. You could have printed the brackets without any supports by using a rib with a trapezoidal profile. That would have changed the horizontal face of the rib (relative to your print bed) so that it is at 45 degrees. You'd need to add clearance for the stretcher mounting screws but as long as they have a rounded profile (relative to the print bed) that would be fine.

[@TheDevnul]

Your fusion skills are AWSOME. Thanks for that. Maybe consider a course 😁 Even on skillshare or something.

[@Annualspy]

This is awesome, I wish you had the same model TV as me 😂... I can only design very simple things lol.

[@bluegizmo1983]

3D printing is awesome. I've made fully functional parts as well. I usually go for PETG when I need functional parts, such as a few automotive parts I've made, some of which have even been used in the engine bay of a vehicle. I was a bit concerned that PETG wouldn't have quite enough temperature resistance to live under the hood in an engine bay, but the parts have been holding up just fine for months now!

[@noway8233]

Petg can tolerte about 80 celcius , its very strong and "a little flexible"

[@jasonbell5905]

Very nice! I watch a past video of yours, the solid tool post for your lathe, again very nice! I’m rebuilding a EMCo Maximat 11 lathe. You seem be very knowledgeable with CAD, can you suggest a simple CAD program for drawing up some simple parts or some tools? Thanks 🤙🏼

[@markusgranberg8004]

Nice! Pro tip, if you but a chamfer under the rib you wont need support at all.

[@thegreyspectre9838]

I've had pretty good luck with Nylon w/Carbon Fibre, Glass, Kevlar as well as PC with CF for printing mechanical parts. To the point where I've basically ditched other materials. Only issue is that you have to remember to use a hardened or sapphire nozzle.

[@c0mputer]

I love your fusion videos. I’m new to cad and they’re SOO helpful. Also, maybe I’m weird but I actually don’t like when someone shows that they already built a thing and then we watch them build it again, like the 3D model. I kind of want to be along for the initial ride, in case anything weird pops up I guess. Even if they really did build it before hand I kind of want to be ignorant of that.

[@no-page]

I completely understand your point if view, but I'm the opposite. For some others' videos, I fast-forward to the end so that I know what's being built. And I certainly don't like watching someone go down some path just to have to backtrack.

[@jameskilpatrick7790]

(20:18) No, you do not need 3 vises. You need Machinist's Jacks! Simple as dirt, but good content.. (Also, use angle iron instead of flat bar). :) Great video. I always look forward to your videos. Thanks! :)

[@norway85s]

Love your channel. What is your favourite CF filament? I am using BASF at the moment, but wondering if you think anything else is better?

[@brianwhite6691]

You make Fusion 360 use seem so easy! Do you have any suggestions for 3-D printer hobbyists to learn Fusion 360 from home? Any books, videos, or programs? Heck, i'd even appreciate learning how to change the size of a rectangle after sketching it!

[@robevans8555]

Really informative video as always, although my vote for this part would be pla would do fine, i this the cf would be better on a part that is taking forces that are continuing changing in direction etc.

[@TheMoody876]

I have printed with carbon fiber pla on my ender 3 v2 for some brackets and other things very strong

[@mikeb1596]

I printed a cf nylon carabiner that supported my weight(230lbs) hanging from a nail in my garage. I would trust it to mount the tv as well. Also never had any clogging issues printing cf in .2 layer height, just print a little slower

[@crabmansteve6844]

Watching how fluid you navigate in Fusion360 makes me feel like I have a learning disability. Lol

[@rickmellor]

I've had some thinner parts printed in Qidi PA12-CF warp after sitting on the desk. I wonder if it's drawing moisture. It will be interesting if these beefier parts retain their shape.

[@johnathon007]

Making your rib on the back as a right triangle profile will allow it to print without support. Not quite as strong maybe but generally more than enough for a part like this.

[@ligius3]

I would guess PLA is plenty strong. I would just add maybe wire anchoring the soundbar to the TV support, just in case. But the power cable can probably serve that double duty as well.

[@summerforever6736]

Great! Now we the viewers needs to come in to help paint your shop walls lol

[@mrcpu9999]

I have dozens of TV's hanging off 3d printed VESA brackets generated in tinkercad and attached to 8020 extrusion. All PETG, all hanging without a hitch for 3+ years now, some of them 80 inch ones. Carbon fiber was $'s down the drain, but not really the point. PETG is strong stuff, as long as you slice and orient it right, and follow a few tips. With all that said, the video was very interesting, and frankly, you should teach a master class in fusion 360 as you make it seem super easy compared to others. Hell I'd pay $'s for it...

[@SlightMalfunction]

I'm interested in seeing the viability of other materials, specifically PETG for this. These parts, being in a garage and possibly an un-air conditioned space makes me want to see how the CF and alternate materials would fare.

[@julianwatts9024]

Seems like there is creep issues with certain nylons. I’ve had some that holds perfectly over a year later. Then I had one that had an important pin move over 4-5 mms rendering the part unusable. Creep is one of the most over looked parameters when making functional 3d prints

[@conorstewart2214]

Did the filament absorb moisture? Also I heard it takes about 2 weeks for nylon to get to its final properties because it absorbs moisture from the air.

[@75keg75]

If you do alternate materials try petg (my favorite) as it strikes a balance of strength and ease to print then do Asa and PC. I guess Pla could be used as a cheaper option but it creeps. Noticed on this part you did a couple perimeters and infill. So would be interesting to see once you determined the best alternative material what the impact of perimeters and infill have on that choice. Ie 2 peri and infill or 3 + or 4 + or solid. I print a few bike part prototypes and always run 4 perimeter but often I just do solid as that material I feel aids rigidity. Stefan at CNC kitchen has a few vids on perimeters etc so may be redundant you do the same reviews, but you probably have 2 videos here to feed the algorithm. Interesting thing to note while you had square parts that was easy to print if you had a tapered part (with steps) it could be worth 3d printing and then milling so you combine additive and subtractive manufacturing. So I guess that’s now 3 ideas… haha.

[@routercnc9517]

Great video as always. I keep trying to justify why I don't need a 3D printer to go along with all the other workshop tools and this is not helping! Also, I'm finally getting around to building your ELS and there is a video series on my channel if you are interested. Just noticed I watched this video on exactly the same Samsung TV! Best wishes from the UK.

[@TomFYouTube]

It would be great if you could make identical sticks like paint stirrers out of different materials and do flex to failure tests.

[@HM-Projects]

Nice quality of life improvement. I suspect petg with high infill will be quite rigid.

[@neilfpv]

Is PA12-CF brittle? Great video!

[@steve_seguin]

I have some discounted Nylon eSUN PAHT-CF and PA-CF filament that I haven't bothered to use yet, due to having to dry it first, but if I ever need something high-heat friendly, I know I at least have it. Instead, I'm just continuing to use PLA-based materials due to the ease and decent strength. Regardless, I still switched to a tungsten carbide 0.6mm nozzel, as I've been trying out PLA-CF a lot lately, and I also hear that since hardened steel nozzles have lower thermal conductivity, they might reduce print quality/strength? Never tested that though. Really curious to know which *budget* PA-CF/PA-CF6/PC-CF/PLA-CF filament on Amazon is the stiffest. I can't afford the professional grade stuff.

[@rackdevelopment]

How do you do those clean fluid movements in F360? I need to get myself whatever it is lol

[@Adamsmasher23]

I'd be curious to see how this holds up long-term - nylon can creep quite a bit, not sure about PA12-CF in particular. I reach for ABS for this sort of application, as it strikes a good balance between strength and toughness, and does not creep.

[@Vampier]

I printed a PLA security camera mount a few years ago - the holder looks sad and droopy. I hope that filament holds up better than my PLA mount - but hey lessons learned for a new attempt when I feel like it.

[@CuttinInIdaho]

I use a similar process, but I use designspark mechanical which is even simpler to use and free(u can subscribe too, but 99% of 3d everyday designers won't need to). This video is excellent, I wish I knew about planning layer lines long before I started printing. I had to learn that the hard way. I think you could have made this with abs and been just fine though. This is not an ideal test of PA12...but it is an excellent example of design.

[@campkohler9131]

The existing feet would seem to be the easiest starting point for speaker brackets. Just cut off the ends of tbe feet so that the the length is the same as the front-to-back depth of the sound bar. It should be easy to attach the bar to the feet, from glue to cable ties to screws through the top of the bar into the feet. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

[@MakenModify]

I'm curious about the long term results. Some CF Filanents have a tendency to creep more then without CF. As always great video and looking forward to the next 👍

[@danieldeutschen7714]

It's actually the other way around. Fibers generally make the impact of creep smaller. Nylons on the other hand all have the tendency to creep, some more than others.

[@MakenModify]

@@danieldeutschen7714 yea in general (injection molding) this is true but seems not the same with CF Nylon filaments. Just ask @CNC-Kitchen about his voron parts ;)

[@danieldeutschen7714]

@@MakenModify I know the video, but honestly, that was expected. PA's are plasticized by moisture, and thus get softer. As heat deflection properties are a function of load, Nylon parts under constant loads creep. On the other hand, fibers are orders of magnitude stiffer than the base polymer and hardly react with moisture. Honesty, there aren't too many applications where CF nylons shine. Most of the time, PCCF and PPS-CF are superior.

[@MakenModify]

@@danieldeutschen7714 yea my point is I'm curious to how it will stand up over time in this case. I'm positive that a pure PC would be better but who knows, till we try

[@rpavlik1]

"prying it off without hurting yourself" That's the real challenge there.

[@richardallankellogg]

Great video. Question - was the metal bar necessary? Couldn’t you have just extended each of the 2 brackets to fit the mounting holes on the soundbar?

[@mythos000000025]

Better yet...do you really need to cad, then mill holes in a 1/8" by 1" wide steel bar stock? For a light load bearing, non critical part? Just possibly some ocd...which is not a bad thing

[@mythos000000025]

Screws with washers save $500 in labor, lol 😆

[@onurjp]

> was the metal bar really necessary? I thought that too. I also thought that, is that carbon fiber... flament used for to hold speaker or 5mm mild steal? dude thats heavy. I think aluminium do the job.

[@mythos000000025]

@@onurjp considering the weight I bet plexi glass would have been sufficient(at a slightly thicker piece, but still way less weight), it's what maybe 3 to 5 lbs? But to each his own, but like you I yhought it was maybe too much