3D Printing on a "really" Uneven Bed

[@ZyronMelancon]

Thanks for showing this! I was always worried that a tilted bed would skew the print slightly with auto-level, but this proves otherwise!

[@Barnacules]

This is absolutely fantastic! How hard is it to implement on an Ultimaker 3D printer.

[@HornbyCrazy]

jerry, would can try mtter controll to do the same thing without needing a probe.

[@trobert132]

coatduck Hey man, can I ask for the firmware settings?

[@JJiG]

This is impressive. I need to get this for my printer ASAP. I'm tired of leveling my bed.

[@martinvandenhoek3229]

It really surprised me that with a bed that uneven, you are still able to produce amazing prints!

[@dejayrezme8617]

Nice that this actually rotates the build and not skew it! :)

[@ThePropMaker]

My printer cant even do this on a perfectly levelled bed xDDD

[@atunguyd]

Alex, have you considered doing something like this with an aluminum bed? Since the bed is aluminum you can use any metallic probe instead of a microswitch (bed grounds probe upon being touched). You also get better adhesion to the aluminum bed and dont need to reapply tape all the time.

[@AndrejGombar]

Fantastic!! I also have a Makerfarm Prusa i3 and having to level the bed after each print is annoying. This is great.

[@hobosrev]

Excellent work.

[@ZennmasterZ]

Very nice work!

[@davidbarns9067]

Well done! Would be great if you could share the instructions to implement this!

[@teapotwar]

I wonder if you could actually utilize the crazy angle for printing overhangs without support?

[@sir5359]

thats thinking - 4th , 5th axis

[@InventionTherapy]

Great way to make things!

[@NiekNooijens]

this should be the default on all printers, I've been busy levelling my bed for 3 days now and still it's a pain! it needs to be re-calibrated every time I apply tape or remove it....

[@karlzhao314]

Looking into auto leveling myself. On a normal (without a height difference of 15mm lol) bed, is there much of a speed loss from the Z axis having to compensate for a slightly tilted bed? This is going to be on a P3Steel, so similar setup to what you have here, but I'm using TR8*8 leadscrews for the Z axis instead of normal M5 threaded rods so theoretically the Z axis should be a bit faster.

[@oxygenccc]

Fantastic. Any more information about the auto level?

[@AdrianCiubotariu]

so what this is, basically, is moving the z endstop next to the printerhead so that it creates a "virtual plane" by making a small matrix of checkpoints. did i get it right? this is definitely going to be my next upgrade! though it is working so nicely with repetier on it :(

[@HobbyBots]

That is an excellent suggestion.

[@kniefi]

coul this also be done with a "manual" extended bed-level-probe? i would like to have a retractable actuator, which I pull down/up by hand before and after the auto-bed-levelling. how is repeatability, the servo seems to always jitter a little bit, correct?

[@TheMrBroney]

Hi, how do you implemented the nozzle cleaning thing?

[@rstar899]

Very cool!!

[@cidoaf]

O resultado ficou muito bom, funciona mesmo. Parabéns!!!

[@Julian6122]

Which Components have you took fpr this? Where can i get the new Marlin Firmware?

[@Skorphil]

Wow. How you get such great quality of printing? The walls are perfect! What extruder do you use?

[@robertorio9947]

nice job !! it's fantastic if you need transport your 3D printer, and you need calibrate the bed fast

[@masterhost]

are you using glass over a hot bed? is the glass hotted or cold? and also glue? Thanks

[@BrackenDawson]

What's up with the look-ahead acceleration? Sounds like its going all the way down to the jerk speed between every move.

[@HONDAKIASSS]

what tape do you have in the bed? where can i found it and how it's called?

[@pausecafe8533]

Hi Alex I'm very interested about your leveling parameters. I build one prototype and I want to know how you can reach this leveling. Thank you for your help

[@MehrdadNaderi]

i dare you to turn on close caption / subtitiles. (rofl)(rofl)(rofl)(rofl)(rofl). Great job on the printer man. Perfect

[@darkcupid3671]

***** You weren't kidding."it's always I'll have scored I'll onto her as soon as possible I'm never let you know" Great job though, I wondered how good auto bed leveling actually worked, this was quite the torture test. I'll have to print a bracket and get it working soon.

[@grantdarley8334]

+Mehrdad Naderi lol it was hilarious!

[@CoD6HModthedeisel]

+Mehrdad Naderi 10/10 Ded lmao

[@raguaviva]

Nice job, where can i get that object you are printing?

[@jaspermachines9350]

try to modify the firmware to increase the max feedrate on the z axis. you can make it move faster.

[@MarkHeywood2012]

Does the printer have to home to X+ and Y+ to make it work instead of X- and Y-. Thanks.

[@lemanxr]

Hi what kinde of sensorus that?

[@lojinharacer]

Muito bom Alex, ótimo trabalho!

[@filipraz3187]

I have problem with mirroring of autolevel... I have Rebel 2... 😒

[@bengtr7352]

Amazing!

[@eduardossampaio]

where I plug the endstop of autolevel?

[@beeeeekey]

What do i for stuff to upgrade my printer as yours?

[@stana1980]

where can I get this firmware and is it comparable with anycubic kossel delta printer

[@edwardnigma2216]

Wow, I wish my Revolution XXL worked half as good with a perfectly level bed...

[@edwardnigma2216]

Well, I'm at the point of having QUBD refuse to return the printer and filing a credit card dispute against them. They are claiming I "modified" the printer and that it's not returnable because of that. Looks like the next step is a lawsuit against QUBD.

[@thegardenofeatin5965]

So you can do that with a Prusa, why can't I do that with a Kossel?

[@RicardoBHubner]

Oloco que perfeição.

[@elsunshine9976]

how did you do it?

[@CameronSouthall]

very clever. I like it

[@jarrad2000]

Can't you fill up the uneven part of the build surface with a raft and then print with full speed?

[@madarakis]

How about to replace the mechanical button and servo with just an optical switch?

[@SkyRaptor18]

The problem is the print surface is not unique.. Sometimes you have kapton, others you have glass+glue stick.... the reflectance changes according to the surface. In the other hand, the mechanical switch will always measure the same distance, no matter the surface.

[@madarakis]

***** Then maybe you can add a CALIBRATION MODE to the firmware and after setting the nozzle to touch the bed hit CALIBRATE SENSOR to analog read the threshold value. Another idea is just to slide a piece of paper to the heated bed during calibration. Why i am telling all these? Because the extra COST and WEIGHT of a servo maybe is a problem for most of us.

[@madarakis]

One more question: I have build the BOWDER EXTRUDER by using pneumatic connectors and the connections are very tough. I have calibrate the Feedrate of the extruder too. The problem is that the nozzle is leaking and i don't know how to fix it.

[@douglascarlos3212]

muito boa suas explicações, valeu, estou aprendendo muito, obrigado

[@karmasgotcha2356]

Thats what you call having your printer dialed in. Nice example

[@stefaancodde6578]

The servo motor should be turned off of the auto bed detection. Now it likes to start and stop. I see some jag lines in the corners.

[@mrunhappy008]

Amazing

[@lukabotic]

Brilliant

[@adamdrl]

you are a genius

[@alhane4178]

does it work with melzi card?

[@litris]

Very nice! ;-)

[@amenotepia]

What plastic where you using?

[@SkyRaptor18]

In this case I was printing ABS.

[@ConsultingjoeOnline]

COOL!

[@DJDa9L]

Its funny your printer here is printing better than my own and you have just thrown the bed in there :P

[@issledovatel-mira]

What G-Code use for autoleveling start? G29?

[@xcoste]

G0 -> G1 G1 - Coordinated Movement X Y Z E G2 - CW ARC G3 - CCW ARC G4 - Dwell S or P G10 - retract filament according to settings of M207 G11 - retract recover filament according to settings of M208 G28 - Home all Axis G29 - Detailed Z-Probe, probes the bed at 3 points. You must de at the home position for this to work correctly. G30 - Single Z Probe, probes bed at current XY location. G31 - Dock Z Probe sled (if enabled) G32 - Undock Z Probe sled (if enabled) G90 - Use Absolute Coordinates G91 - Use Relative Coordinates G92 - Set current position to cordinates given

[@hholover1]

WOW SO COOL ....I NEED THIS >>I NEED THIS>>> I NEED THIS :-)

[@hovissimo]

Just wanted to point out that you can definitely see some aliasing on the sides of the part. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmnIooaHg6asqNE&feature=player_detailpage#t=419 Not really preventable, but smaller step distances would help minimize this defect. Also, it should be almost negligible with a "normal" unlevel bed.

[@xcoste]

U rocks!!!

[@broerbreaker9240Z]

What?! I want auto homing NOW :( could i buy it? :(

[@antoinelion7654]

Nice demonstration but this is "simply" tilted, yes it proves that auto bed leveling corrects this nicely but for uneven bed it is trickier as the mesh grid resolution can be too low

[@danielradi1235]

nice I need auto level

[@psiewert83]

millallallulillameters?

[@sotm6078]

Measured the bed in 4 points not three. It measured all 4 corners!!

[@rstar899]

When can we see the github?

[@SkyRaptor18]

Here it goes: github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin

[@willybilly99]

***** i find it it can consume more power on z motor because it constantly moves up and down & its get extremely hot. its better just even the bed and not worry about z motor

[@lineuve]

Are you Brazilian guy ?

[@SkyRaptor18]

Yes!

[@lineuve]

Brazilian Rules! Nice presentation about bed lev...

[@lineuve]

Very precision details in our printed object...

[@lineuve]

A try finished my Prusa Mendel V2 3D Printer. At last final fase.

[@55rebels]

Funny, I actually saw it measure 4 points.

[@YOURMOMxo69xo]

Holly cow your z steppers are running slowwww.

[@MrHumpamonkey]

But now your part will stand crooked on a flat surface.....

[@andrewscott3397]

+Joe Humpamonkey, you didn't bother watching to the end did you? The program compensated for the tilt and built the part at the same tilt.