3D Prints Outside for 7 years: What happened? RMRRF2024

[@CNCKitchen]

Want to get your 3D prints to the next level? Check out our Heat Set Inserts and Tools at cnckitchen.store (Free shipping worldwide starting at €100).

[@triple7988]

Have any videos for the creality unicorn nozzle?

[@RaphaHey]

The Swiss nozzle took a thin tube and stamped/punched through the tube to create the ramp. They they press fit the tube into the nozzle. That is my prediction 😀

[@ratchet600]

The Hueforge guy is really down to earth, open and honest about all the strengths and limitations of the system. Mad respect

[@CNCKitchen]

Steve's an awesome guy with so much passion for what he does!

[@ser_igel]

@@CNCKitchen also props to him for lifetime purchase model and even a lifetime commercial license option

[@an2qzavok]

@@ser_igel meh, I saw non-free license and my interest evaporated immediately.

[@CreepyMemes]

business man doing business

[@Shalominati]

Yeah I came here to say this. It seems more like a passion project that pays for his coffee/hobbies more than a full time job. Major props to him for not going subscription based.

[@3DPT]

Thank you for interviewing me! It was great to see you at RMRRF!

[@CNCKitchen]

Likewise! Always love seeing experiments like this.

[@andrewn7365]

Do you think coatings and/or paints would increase PLA's lifespan outdoors? If so, what would you recommend?

[@andreyansimov5442]

Thanks a lot for your job!

[@3DPT]

@@andrewn7365 You could certainly paint these samples to extend their lifespan. I don't know what paints go with PLA, so that would be a different experiment! If you want prints to last 2+ years outdoors, I'd go with PETG's, Nylons or TPU's and just use a more durable material.

[@andrewn7365]

@@3DPT Thanks!

[@robertheinrich2994]

suggestion for the hueforge guy: create a calibration card. print it, put it into a scanner, and let the software calibrate itself. still some work, but it would allow the software itself to see the result. a second idea: if you allow people to upload the profiles for different filament brands and types, this would create a database of which filaments are good for which uses, and which filaments are constant in their quality and which ones should be avoided.

[@davidcheek8892]

That's a good idea. I also suggest they buy and dissect a Spyder screen calibration tool and see what sensor that uses.

[@G1itcher]

I don't think that will work; a scanner rarely scans colours true to life. I think that would just add another vector for colour variation. Then again, I suppose it could be argued it would be close enough

[@deadrem]

It was shown here but there is a little device you can make called the TD-1 which only cost around $15 or so to make yourself if you have the know how to do it. Hueforge should be mass producing and selling them as a bundle with the program, but I think $80 is way too steep of a price for something most people will likely only do every now and then. I'm guessing they're still being handmade, but I think for most people, they're really only going to be worth it if they're under, at least, $40. Your idea is certainly clever and is a bit similar to the official lightbox method where you do it by eye with a simple LED strip underneath a little test printcard with multiple layer heights. The biggest issue with the light box is that you'll sometimes get prints with very high TDs, so a single roll of filament can sometimes take close to 30-40 minutes of printing just to get an accurate number out of it. Edit: I hadn't known this at the time, but they actually do sell a DIY kit $40 here: west3d.com/products/td-1-instant-filament-td-transmissivity-tester-for-hueforge-1-75mm-filament-by-ajax?variant=44678724059348 You could still buy everything you need from a site like aliexpress for around $15-$20, but at least with a setup like this, the shipping is much quicker and there's no question that the components are compatible.

[@ErrorTH]

scanner will be the weakest link. While they are less cursed than 2d printers, they are still nightmarish when you need accuracy. Try scanning film, i dare you.

[@robertheinrich2994]

@@ErrorTH yes, it will not be really accurate, but it will provide a fairly useful value.

[@VoltexRB]

Truth be told, I think optimizing nozzle changing speed is pretty low on my "what I find useful on a 3D Printer" list

[@VintageTechFan]

I would like it .. but on the other hand, multiple extruders are more useful, since you also get quick and low-waste multimaterial capabilities by that.

[@satibel]

yeah it will have to be competitive with "the magic of buying two of them" but if it's at like 30-50 bucks it will be competitive for higher end nozzles.

[@LampDoesVideogame]

Wow, something can save me 2 minutes after.... Several hundreds of hours of use. Lol

[@blakes8901]

beyond a certain level of optimization it becomes less appealing but there is genuinely something to be said for ease of use. lowering the mental barrier of entry to do something is a lot more valuable than it would seem at first glance.

[@SplatusEve]

Could this be made easier into a rotating toolhead with automatic nozzle changes mid-print?

[@woodwaker1]

I really liked your approach, instead of a quick walk trying to show everything, you went in depth on a few very interesting ones. The next will also be a must see

[@riba2233]

Yep, he is awesome like that

[@CNCKitchen]

Appreciate it! I'm experimenting with some different formats.

[@drfailbucket]

​@@CNCKitchenperfectly balanced with the other KZbinrs. When i want a "quick" rundown of the event i look at some other KZbiners, for more in depth i definitely will look your other Videos about the event 👌

[@ad3d]

Been using Duramic Pro PLA for outside use...but, after many prints over several years, I have finally found the key to longevity with it. Primer and plastic paint. And using a light color too. The biggest factors are not temp changes but rather UV and heat. Lighter colors reflect light and the paint does a great job at blocking UV. I ran this experiment on an EV charger handle mount for the front of our garage. Unpainted the Pro PLA would last about a year in Upstate NY weather, full sunlight southern exposure. Painted however has been up there 3 years with no deformation or cracking/brittleness so far. I use Rustoleum filler primer (1 coat and sanded) then finish off with Plastic specific paint in white or off white. I am currently experimenting with skipping the primer phase and just spraying the plastic paint directly on the print and so far, so good.

[@MaaveMaave]

Thanks, this info is handy, I have all the materials already

[@leaftye]

Seems like more UV than heat from my PLA parts that are currently outside because they were already warping before we've even had hot weather, and it'll get to near Las Vegas levels of hot later this year. The part beneath it is made from the exact same PLA and they're not warped, but they're mostly shielded from direct sunlight. Geometry makes a difference too. The parts I have outside are the same, except some have thinner walls. The thinner walled parts are much more warped. There's also one with a slightly different shape and walls that are much thicker, and it doesn't appear to be warped at all yet. I also have some parts that are slip-on caps onto a nozzle that has a built-in o-ring, and they shrunk from a snug fit, to completely unable to fit. They actually didn't shrink if they were installed because the nozzle resisted the shrinkage. I switched these to PETG and haven't noticed any shrinkage yet.

[@BRUXXUS]

I've been a big fan of Duramic filaments for years now. Their PETG is some of the easiest to print in my experience. Their PLA+ is a fantastic mix of strength and print quality. I haven't used many prints for outside use, yet... but have been working on a project which will need to withstand very harsh conditions, so I've been using ASA.

[@ad3d]

@@leaftye Agreed

[@rolfnilsen6385]

I have the opposite experience, but at 63 degrees north so not very much UV. Black non-transparent PLA have done the best outdoor for me up here. Colorless PLA the worst. My thinking is that the colours protect against UV, just like painting the surface does. It slows down the process a lot. I compare the process with degradation of wood exposed to UV of which there is a lot of knowledge. Paint protects not only against fungi and rain but also UV. But if a south facing wooden facade is left untreated the UV will break down the surface and in time the full depth. Any molecule blocking the UV radiation will work. I suppose that is why black seems to work the best for me outdoors.

[@TouchofDepth]

the fact that hueforge doesn't force you into a subscription for personal use is SOOOO AWESOME! I'm definitely supporting this ASAP!

[@tonyrivera6575]

The Hue Forge is absolutely amazing. Those look like paintings!

[@deadrem]

I bought Hue Forge around a month ago and I'll tell you directly that a lot of effort and money goes into making it work well (for multi-colored prints), but it's definitely really ingenious using the light transmitted through the filaments to create certain colors/shades and it's really satisfying when your prints actually look the way you hoped they would. For grayscale prints, I'd absolutely say the programs worth getting if the concept interest you, but if you're wanting to do more "color accurate" prints, just be handy with photo editing software because it can become a really complicated balancing act (in it's current early state) in getting it to properly handle multiple shades of color the way you'd like it to.

[@hebijirik]

Shortly after I got my first printer in 2020 I printed a weirdly shaped extension of a rain gutter for my house. I needed to make the water go from the down tube at the end of one trough a bit sideways to the next in very little vertical space so no elbows or anything I could by would fit. Being constrained by the size of a Prusa Mini resulted in a shape that is not optimal for water flow but it works anyway. I printed it out of some green semitransparent PETG. It is exposed to sun at least half of each day or more and 4 years later it is still there. Nothing broke and recently when doing something on the roof I went to touch it to see how it is holding up. It does not feel brittle at all. When feeling the flexibility of the wall of the part I actually cannot tell any difference between this and a fresh print in PETG with similar wall thickness and curvature. So I guess you really can print rain collecting parts out of PETG and expect a decent life time out of them.

[@aleks138]

Same. I printed a gutter spout in cheap black pla as a mockup. 2 years later it's still there with no signs of graying. I think people over react about PLA not being UV resistant

[@hebijirik]

@@aleks138 I have seen PLA parts grey and weaken outside but it does take years. And I wouldn't be surprised if it also highly depended on the exact brand and pigment type as well as weather conditions.

[@andreyansimov5442]

Thanks a lot! It gives a hope for my product.

[@alexandrevaliquette3883]

25:09 I use to work in the R&D department of an high end paint manufacturer. We use an aging chamber to simulate outside condition: UV light, high humidity and temperature. Freeze/thaw cycle. You can simulate a 10 years outdoor exposition within 3 months.

[@3DPT]

I look at that as a testing option, but material testing is not cheap... This gives a real-world test anyway.

[@russellschlack3950]

I live like 20 minutes away from the place this was held, I learned about it the day after. I was sad until now, Thank you. Hope you make it next year too.

[@CNCKitchen]

Sorry to hear that but I'm sure that there will be a RMRRF2025

[@justinskywalker]

Doing the filament experiment is awesome. Esp in Colorado. The high UV exposure and wild temperature swings found at this elevation, along with literally every style and variation of ways water can fall from the sky make outdoors in Colorado a true torture test for plastics. I personally made some garden stakes for my back yard a couple years ago and found out very quick how brutal the weather is for plastic and just how awful PLA is for outdoor use

[@3DPT]

Thank you!

[@daboyakasha101]

at last, 2D printing!

[@dirtdart81]

Best Comment of the Year, holy shit I lost it

[@VanessaFlyhight]

Return to tradition

[@elongated_muskrat_is_my_name]

plastic pen plotter (you could use it to do a bunch of woodcut-style prints)

[@SaHaRaSquad]

2D printing that works and doesn't require replacement parts that coincidentally cost exactly as much as a new printer.

[@TheNetworkingGuy]

So happy I got to be in the intro! And again thank you for the ride to the airport!

[@CNCKitchen]

Great finally meeting you in-person!

[@roboman2444]

The one thing i think was kinda missed with HueForge section was that, since it is a mesh, you can add it onto existing 3d prints, as long as it is on a flat section.

[@CNCKitchen]

Very good point!

[@MrDivinePotato]

That 7 year experiment is super cool. I would have loved to see some ASA samples but I guess that wasn't really a thing at the time...

[@3DPT]

ASA was just coming on the market when I started, and I don't have an application for it. If someone sent a sample that would be great!

[@Cornish_Co]

​@3DPT I use vapor smoothed ASA to produce a bracket that I designed for mounting light fixtures outdoors. They are typically in full sunlight and support 1.5lb to 4.5lb light fixtures (tested to 87lbs sustained). My oldest brackets are approximately 4 years old and don't show any signs of degradation. I've been blown away by the strength and durability of ASA and highly recommended giving it a try. Note: Polymaker produces some high-quality ASA. There are some companies selling ASA that feel and perform a lot like ABS.

[@3DPT]

@@Cornish_Co I'm working on a testing plan right now... I'd like to assemble it at RMRRF 2025 and have it ready to start then.

[@L0ldemort]

I just want to say thank you for your effort to get good sound on the interviews. It is so well put together. Really appreciate it!

[@CNCKitchen]

I tried my best in that harsh environment. Happy to get that feedback!

[@terryevans1976]

Great point. Audio can make or break a video.

[@AzaB2C]

Great stuff. The wire EDM exhibit cutting through metal like a light saber was awesome.

[@RobHasIdeas]

It was great meeting you there! I enjoyed our chats, and really appreciate your insights and encouragement. Hopefully, I'll be able to share the results of those projects soon :)

[@CNCKitchen]

Likewise! Sorry for being overly busy and running away all the time 😅

[@RobHasIdeas]

​@@CNCKitchen no worries, you had work to do! My only regret is not getting a chance to talk cooking. Maybe next time 😁

[@billmccoy8232]

The quickchange nozzles are interesting. Imagine a Bambu X1/P1 machine with AMS and multiple nozzles in a tool change area. The machine prints color 1, cuts the filament and withdraws it from the head, drops the color 1 nozzle and picks up the color 2 nozzle from the tool change area, feeds color 2 and goes on with the print. No purging needed. No prime tower needed, no color bleed or plastic types being mixed in the nozzle. It would also be much faster than how we do things now but no need for multiple full print heads.

[@Celciusify]

That Swiss3Dc nozzle looks very fragile. Sure it's fast, but how well will it work after you get a filament leak or a year of use? And you won't be able to change it while hot, so you'll need to break the filament that's stuck between the nozzle and heatbreak.

[@Soundwave857]

revo also allows for cold swaps, i never had an issue with releasing the extruder gear sension, unscrewing it pull it with the filament out and breaking off the filament. all bambus have filament cutters too

[@CullenJWebb]

The thin nozzles may actually be a benefit. If for example your printer rams the hotend into the bed, something somewhere is going to break, and I'd prefer it be the nozzle.

[@Celciusify]

@@CullenJWebb I don't think the Nozzle will be the weak part, the quick release uses thin pressed metal and is held on by small tabs. Those tabs will be the weak part, and once those break you need an entire new hot end. I'd rather not having to buy new hot ends for every crash.

[@CNCKitchen]

I guess only testing it will tell the whole story.

[@Celciusify]

@@CNCKitchen yes, I doubt they'd push it to market if its broken in one crash. And ive seen extremely promising stuff turn out to be crap, and vice versa. This might be an awesome product.

[@freiermann7]

That quick nozzle change could allow for automated tool head changes like on a CNC machine. Fat nozzle for the bulk structure and tiny nozzles for detail.

[@miserablepile]

Swiss3D's quick change hotend looks cool. I wonder if it gets more easily gummed up in a jam, with all those moving parts and crannies.

[@AndrewAHayes]

I want the X1 Carbon hotend so badly, I was going to order the E3D Obxisidan yesterday but my broadband went down for maintenance and when it came back up I had forgotten about it, Im so glad I did not order it! I will wait patiently for this one!

[@dareka9425]

Another coincidence. I was just starting to use my 3D printer to make functional objects for my school project. The first ones are connectors to hold display pipes to the ceiling and lettering for a hut. They printed nicely but I am wondering how tough the PLA+ I am using will be when exposed to the outside tropical weather and the students' curious hands. One the first thingS that I printed for the outside was a gate bolt with PETG. It lasted for around 6 months before the thinnest parts start to crack.

[@eideticex]

I would love to experiment with the HueForge stuff using fluorescent PLAs. Shine a cheap UV pen on flourescent PLA and it will glow like an LED. I imagine that property could blend into other filaments given the translucent nature of PLA.

[@kylek29]

That Swiss3d quick swap nozzle is an interesting design and I can already see a way that it could be automated with a jig for during-the-print nozzle swaps. Definitely a product line to keep an eye on if they can compete with E3d's price model (or undercut it).

[@dgkimpton]

Love that quick swap hotend - not so much for the speed, but for the lack of twisting. I've never felt comfortable trying to twist things in my hotend and this seems to eliminate that issue altogether.

[@ucirello]

Nice meeting you there Stefan!

[@CNCKitchen]

Same here!

[@dougingraham5807]

Stephan. Thanks for the event coverage. I was there and saw you a couple of times but you were so busy I never got the opportunity to talk to you. I just wanted to thank you for all your material testing efforts and the comments/reviews over the years. Perhaps we can exchange greetings next time.

[@JanTec3D]

Thank you for this amazing trip to RMRRF!

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks for joining me and I had the feeling that you enjoyed it ;-)

[@JanTec3D]

@@CNCKitchen I DID!

[@GianmarioScotti]

The really interesting stuff (from the title) starts at 24:15

[@macropin]

When it comes to UV resistance the #1 factor is colour. White and Black filaments contain titanium dioxide and carbon black pigments. Both improve the UV resistance. Personally I've had white PLA last outside without degradation, I've even used it for replacing swimming pool parts. So UV + chlorine exposure without any noticeable degradation after 2 years.

[@petermuller608]

Looking forward to the changeable hot ends from Switzerland!

[@NiyaKouya]

Interesting stuff ^^ Concerning prints left outside: I park my e-bike on our south-east facing balcony, and since I store the battery pack indoors I printed a cap for the power connector out of white TPU. It has seen the full range of south German weather for a bit over 1 1/2 years, and so far the only change I noticed is that it started to yellow and maybe get a bit stiffer on the parts that were exposed to sunlight. Other than that it's still holding up great.

[@jacobrollins37]

One of my favorite prints I've ever made was a lithofen lap shade. I love it so much because I didn't realize the picture I was using was designed to connect at the ends, so when I made it on my computer I was surprised but it had a seam. When I printed it there was no seam and it looks beautiful. If I could make it in color that would be amazing.

[@MSP_TechLab]

I have made enclosure for outside temperature sensor (two parts pla/abs). And plased it outside window. I though it will fall apart in a few years. But it is there for 5 years and I see no degration in pla (it was white though) and abs became a little bit yellowish and more brittle.

[@miserablepile]

Thank you for interviewing Steve from HueForge, it was so inspiring to hear his discovery and development of the technique, really awesome stuff!!

[@tobiasjennerjahn8659]

The 7 year experiment is super interesting. It's well known that PLA degrades easily outside, but it's nice that PETG did so much better. Nylon did really well, but it's cost prohibitive. PETG seems like a nice middle ground. I don't want my stuff to break after 6 months, but if I have to replace some of my gardening prints 5 years down the road, that seems acceptable to me.

[@Rouverius]

They say that if using nylon zipties outside, black is the most UV resistant. I wonder if this also true with filaments.

[@mzimmerman1988]

The added squirrel trials only makes this a better test!

[@SteevyTable]

It's kind of interesting how the ABS held up, I have a couple black ABS prints on the front bumper of my car that have been there since 2017 and they have held up well in Indiana through cold winters and hot summers. They don't even seem to mind the car wash.

[@licensetodrive9930]

PLA outside - 4 years ago I designed & printed a large NHS logo which has the Superman S, 20x7cm sized, 5 colours glued together, and bolted it to the wood fence of the substation along my road. It's still there in great condition probably because it doesn't get direct sunlight. I even found photos of it for sale on Alamy from two different people!

[@ADVtheMISSIONARY]

I compared two benchies one in PLA and the other in PETG both Aurarum filament in orange and over the three years the PETG only lost colour, the PLA went brittle and faded within a year. A longer experiment would be interesting, Go for it Stephan.

[@CaptainFalcon92]

Stephan is the sort of guy who says "yeah" every 3 seconds while you explain something.

[@throwawaypt2throwawaypt2-xp8nx]

yeah

[@PhoenyxAshe]

One of these days I'll be able to make it to RMRRF... I keep hearing about it after it's over. It's annoying because... it's only a few hours drive away. I'll definitely be looking int 3D-PT's work. I've been curious as to ways to improve PLA's survivability outside.

[@3DPT]

Thank you!

[@frankbauerful]

I love that quick-change heater. I mostly use 1mm nozzle size but sometimes I'd like to print a part with more detail, but changing a nozzle is so annoying.

[@dietmuse]

Since ASA is touted for its UV resistance I was hoping he would have included it in the test.

[@charlieross-BRM]

Back around 1980-1984 my father hinted at me to look into offering EDM services to small manufacturers and fabrication shops, to repair dies. I was out of work and I didn't even know what EDM meant but he knew I was tech savvy and Dad was a former aircraft engine machinist and at this time a technical sales rep dealing industrial plastics and metals. It was decades until I saw for myself a sample of EDM. It was a pan style (flat sheet metal) chassis for a racing slot car. All the weight reduction, mounting holes and slits to give the chassis specific spring rates were CAD designed by the hobbyist who outsourced the files for EDM parts.

[@papplemyapple]

Wow that quick change nozzle from swiss looks perfect!

[@spinnetti]

Finally, a Hot end done right, adding speed and reducing variability. I wonder how good the height repeatability is between nozzles. The inside looks tapered. There is a whole class of machine tool named after the Swiss - Swiss machines, that are all about machining little parts like this better than anything else. Perfect match. I never change nozzles, or I would definitely buy this. Shoutout to Hueforge for the AE86 panda print - I had one of those for 25 years.

[@hueforging]

Those were all done by @neokoiprints he makes them in ProCreate and then HueForge's them.

[@rayl2354]

I would like a strength test of ABS, ASA, Nylon and PETG that is left out side for several years vs a control and what percentage of strength they lose

[@3DPT]

I wanted to but lab cost for tensile testing was pricey.

[@timangus]

Patents are so ridiculous. The bar for getting them is absurdly low, the length of time they persist is absurdly long, they don't solve the problem they're supposed to solve, they discourage incremental improvement, huge companies abuse owning them. Put them in the bin.

[@firehazard1792]

Personally they are pretty fine with the huge glaring exception of how long they last. It's so ridiculous. Patents make sense to me, but for like idk 2 years, maybe 5 years.

[@jimmanis6717]

Incremental improvement, you mean copy it but change something small so you can sell something you didn't invent. You can license it if you wanted to buy it seems you want it free.

[@Festivejelly]

Your editing software was messing up the audio quite a bit there.

[@RolandGustafsson]

I have used TPU for a pool sweep wear ring (prevents wear on the hose out the back of the pool sweep) - and the printed TPU is stronger than the Pentair wear rings that came with the hose! This has been used underwater now for 2+ years. I have also replaced a anti-siphon valve in an irrigation valve using PETG and that thing has been going on 3 years now. I believe the broken part that I replaced was nylon injection molded. I used Tinkercad to make a replacement, in PETG. Again, always in water. Initially I used PLA for the valve when I didn't realize that it was a poor choice but the PLA version lasted one year.

[@swdw973]

Great video. And it was a pleasure meeting you and talking to you. I missed the 7 year exposure display. Having the test done in Aurora is a great location for this test. This was a harsh test because of the altitude. UV strength increases by about 4% per 1000 ft (304 meters). Aurora has a average elevation of 5,550 ft (1690 m). So the parts were subject to UV that is about 22% stronger than at sea level. If you want to duplicate this test, it would be great if you could have some injection molded pieces of various plastics to compare to the printed parts.

[@3DPT]

I like that idea! If I do this again I'll print tensile bars and have the ABS parts!

[@ArcanePath360]

I've had PLA prints sitting in full sun, snow, whatever, year on year and they are fine. I made sure to print white so they reflect the sun. They are also printed thick walled. Look the same as when I first put them there.

[@clockworkvanhellsing372]

That is simmelar to what the slant 3d guy said: UV only penetrates only the surface and the degraded plastic acts as a protection layer, so thick walled prints should be fine for a long time.

[@ArcanePath360]

@@clockworkvanhellsing372 Might be worth adding a layer of paint when first put out, just to give it more protection.

[@mshepard2264]

You probably don’t live in a place where it gets hot. My pla prints warp in the sun.

[@ArcanePath360]

@@mshepard2264 South East England. It gets into the low to mid 30s at the highest. Maybe you need better quality PLA with a higher melting point. I get the PLA+ which needs to be around 210-220 print temp. And make sure you have at least 3 walls with heavy infill, and a shape that is dense. Small bits that protrude will likely melt no matter what

[@mastermaker666]

Polyurethane varnish tends to be UV shielding so simply coating PLA with it will massively improve it's outdoors performance as far as moisture, wind abrasion and UV is concerned. Don't know about freeze/thaw cycles for anything structural though but the door/apartment name sign I printed in PLA a decade ago and coated/painted is holding up fine..

[@Thats_my_Point]

Hueforge needs to partner with the guy that tested every filament and created the database for them, and also included transparency!

[@NexGen-3D]

Thanks for sharing Stephan, all quite interesting.

[@Craftlngo]

would be cool to see an automatic tool changer with the Swiss3Dc quick change hotend!

[@treadless_co]

Really want to see the alumina vs silica graphs that were briefly shown in a previous video! The slide was taken down from the video... hope to see it in the next video!

[@FlesHBoX]

As someone who is awaiting a replacement board for the extruder in my X1c due to the awful decision by bambu to require swapping a teensy cable connected with a super tight and hard to get to connector for one of the THREE connection required to reconnect when swapping nozzles, I am pretty excited to see the bambu compatible version of this hit the market!

[@jamesray9009]

the street number I printed for my package delivery box are 6" tall white pla I painted black and have been in direct sunlight for deco I think they will live but I bet that are getting brittle next couple years at least ?? or the paint really gonna make a difference to the overall deterioration

[@3DPT]

I did the same thing for my mail box letters. The sign did crack around the screw but the sign is still good.

[@Zachary3DPrints]

Great video about those hotends and Hueforge... Who is that dude with that red hoodie and white letters on the back, was he stalking you?

[@stevesloan6775]

You should definitely produce the same experiment, and include incremental strength tests. I’m keen to see how the nylon changes. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎☮️🍀

[@3DPT]

I'm debating it, this time printing tensile bars for testing. I'll have to see what lab cost would be.

[@SLcompany_watch]

this is such an informative video and i love it. thank you!!!

[@03jalapeno]

Hueforge is amazing and really fun to use

[@daa3417]

The first hueforge print I did was Starry Night, I’ve seen the real thing at MoMA a few times and naturally it doesn’t come close but with the right silk filaments it really does capture the impressionistic oil painted feel.

[@surfboardtrough7742]

It’s such a punch in the gut to hear that some big international festival is taking place in a smaller town right next to where I live. Nothing ever happens in Greeley.

[@jeremyturner4402]

Thank you for making the trip to Loveland!

[@MrSentientSimian]

Regarding material longevity: Really want to know how ColorFabbs AllPHA stacks up against regular PLA and PLA/PHA blends

[@3DPT]

I did not get the AllPHA material, but many of the samples I did were PLA/PHA. It would be interesting to see in the future if I repeat this experiment.

[@dchurch911]

Except, I have several outdoor models that were printed many years ago. Some are PLA others are ABS and ASA (black). Things like fuel and water jug mounts of ABS printed in 2016. They are on the roof rack of our Landrover. They are in great shape! So are the hold down nobs for our off-road extraction boards... Granted they see a mix of sun/shade mostly in the PNW.

[@JohanLofgren-jc4mh]

Yes, I miss the ASA in the seven years outdoortest. It is said to keep it colors better than even ABS!

[@terryevans1976]

Great video with lots of interesting information. Thanks!

[@AFAR2809]

i accidentally left my not-yet-finished ODST helmet build outside in the sun for 2 hours... when I came to realise, the top is already flattened. I only just perfected my methods of using resin smoothing and just put on a few layer of primer... outside temperature 34C at 10 in the morning tropical climate location malaysia

[@MarkG-h2y]

I've had a wind chime made of PLA outside for 5 years and other than fading there's no detectable sign of degradation. I suppose you might not notice brittleness but the striker is made of solid PLA and constantly is hitting against copper tubes and is not at all damaged.

[@davidcheek8892]

So happy to finally see a creator show off the outdoor test! You should totally do tests like that.

[@tin2001]

Yeah. I've been incredibly hesitant to print anything for outdoor use because I'm worried it would become a hassle months or years later when it breaks. Not just because I'd need to reprint it, but because if it's holding something else of value, it could be costly.

[@davidcheek8892]

@@tin2001 print abs and then paint it with exterior house paint. It's what my exterior vents are and they're 10+ years old. Petg is technically better, according to these tests, but it's hard to paint, need special preparation/primer.

[@notthe12thdr47]

Where do you get the color detection thing the hueforge guy is holding

[@calyodelphi124]

That photolithophane stuff looks REALLY COOL. That might actually be fun to play with once I (eventually) get my 3D printer set up and running

[@username9774]

was waiting for your video, yay

[@CNCKitchen]

Hope you enjoyed it!

[@TheNewBloodDan]

I WANT THAT QUICK CHANGE HOT END!

[@zachb.6179]

[15:13] ...would it be possible to have 4 filaments (CMYK) feed into a manifold at varying rates to control the color and have that manifold heat 'em up, melt 'em together, and put out a custom color to the print?

[@Martial-Mat]

Hueforge is a nice piece of software and Steve is the nicest, most helpful guy, but the luminance matching model is damned annoying, so I'm very interested by the idea of a colour matching mode. I've used a colorimeter to profile the TD of about a hundred filaments, and I agree that cheaper filaments often have a lower TD. I also find that find that the high -quality Sunlu Meta range is ideal. You'll often see Flashforge colours quoted using Polyterra colours, but the now-cheaper Bambu Basic filaments are an exact match in many cases.

[@xavierfaraudo]

Mind elaborating on how did you use the colorimeter? I've dabbled a bit with a Nix Mini 3 and the delta E function(s), but haven't touched that in a while (a severe instance of things happening). Agree that luminance can be a pain, though one can always index & map colors (which, yes, it's much better done programmatically).

[@skaltura]

7 years outside -> Bizarre he said PETG fares best, when data clearly shows Nylon is king and PLAs White or Black does well too. I'm going to be putting some huge PLA prints outside in the sun for many years to come, with small features too. Plan has been to use white PLA, and maybe spray paint a thin coat on top.

[@jindrichcink8378]

high TDs, five TDs, hard TDs. Lots of TDs but i love them all in all shapes and forms

[@danielkorrmann5467]

If you recreate that experiment, you should paint some samles. Check if paint can protect the platic from the enviroment

[@3DPT]

I'm working on the test plan now, and I plan on painting a set of samples.

[@johnsmith-i5j7i]

I have a patent "A thing which uses matter from this universe to do something" that means both FDM and resin printers infringes on my copyright and I'm owed billions in royalties.

[@magnum164]

Curious, I suspect as 3D filament is an oil product, if you can do those color faded prints like we repair lawn mowers, or stadiums refurbish stadium seats. By hitting them with a heat gun you re-energize the oil in the product and it restores the original tint to the material, in some cases making it look like new again.

[@3DandTeePrinting]

I noticed you there but you were always heading to something and I didn't want to bother you. So glad you came.

[@Theprofessor1212]

I’ve been saying that for years. Nylon is the best all around material for 3d printing including outdoor use. For draft and prototyping printing I use Polymide Copa and then final part with PA6-CF/GF.

[@riba2233]

Idk it has poor creep performance and high price tag so def not everyday use

[@JojoJoget]

@@riba2233nylon’s creep performance is one of the best

[@haydenc2742]

On the outside...can he pain them with clearcoat UV and color spraypaint? unprotected and then coated with clearcoat and color (think white for heat protection) but have UV protection built in... I highly recommend testing them...awesome! Keep em coming!!!!

[@3DPT]

That may be what I test next. any recommendations for outdoor paint?

[@sleeplessnights-p7v]

Hue forge seems awesome! Such a great tool to solve this one problem.

[@gamerpaddy]

7:00 so they just dented the tube to disrupt the laminar flow so the inner material gets closer to the heated side walls and heats more troughly you gotta test those nozzles with your channel logo filament once you get your hands on it if it still comes out in one piece. you might try squishing a copper tube so its like a flattened heat pipe found in laptops and try clamping those heater resistors on the flat sides.

[@_DROM_]

The guy who did the test of how the weather and time can hit a specific filament, did a pretty nice job. I'm just wondering how much the composition of these filaments have changed over these 7 years. PLA, for example. Not many people use PLA anymore. It's being replaced by PLA+ and all the other stronger versions of it.

[@3DPT]

Thank you! While many were base PLA, I did have PLA+, PLA/PHA, and HTPLA in the mix. If I do this again I'll make sure to have a current blend of PLA+ as well as the blends.

[@_Gartne_zum_verschoenerne_]

I recently watched some of your print test videos and got to a question. Could you print a shell part with a 2mm hole on top, which you then fill with some type of glue/epoxy resin? After it has hardend, you should have prettymuch perfect strength uniformity and form stability at minimal filament use and time investment. (if the fuid pressure becomes large enough to deform the vase mode print could one do it via a number of layers or shells (like chocolate easer bunnies)) Would be interested to see some numbers on that.

[@hasserecht3678]

Woaaa was that Nery? He brought me into 3D printing. Glad he's still around ❤.

[@DanielKay06]

Kinda wonder, are there multi nozzle printers that can print a piece in different thicknesses, like printing a thicker layer for inside it so it's printed faster and more solid, then using thinner nozzles on the outside to make the print smoother?

[@xIsouLcruSHca]

I'm really sad that events like this are only in the US most of the time, glad I can watch everything on here!

[@tjpprojects7192]

"Toolless hotend" except when you want to switch in the middle of printing, which is the only valid reason to switch a hot end in 6 seconds vs 15 seconds, but then you burn your fingers to a crisp because it's a "toolless" hotend. :/ Edit* honestly, the extra heating zone seems FAR more useful to me than the nozzle being slightly wuicker to change.

[@dmhayes6]

There's this really cool recent invention... I think they're called pliers?

[@tjpprojects7192]

@@dmhayes6 "Toolless"... Pliers are tools 🙂

[@dmhayes6]

@@tjpprojects7192 yea it's toolless when you do it the way you're supposed to. If you want a toolless way to change a 200C + piece of metal, you better forget your skin. You are literally asking for the impossible. How is that so hard to see?

[@dmhayes6]

@@tjpprojects7192 I don't understand why people like you insist on being petty for the sake of being petty. Is there not enough misery in your life already?

[@tjpprojects7192]

@@dmhayes6 "There's this really cool recent invention... I think they're called pliers?" I don't understand why people like you insist on being condescending. You really had to take time out of your day to write an asinine comment insinuating I'm so dumb that I don't know what pliers are? As if being forced to use pliers on a supposedly *TOOLLESS* hotend is supposed to be valid? Last I checked pliers are tools. Don't give up hope! Insulting people on KZbin then complaining when they clap back may be very very low, but you can do better! There's always a second chance! We're rooting for you skeleton! 🤡