THIS Fixes the Creality K1 Max

The Creality K1 Max works well, but HAS A FLAW. Changing nozzles is difficult. This new Flow Tech hot end aims to make it easier. Let's see how well it works.
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[@OrganicGreens]

It feels like we are entering a new era of 3d printers. quality is going up and price is going down so fast the last few years.

[@HolaSoyAndy]

I feel the same way! I'm a big 3d printer enthusiast and seeing how printers are becoming more affordable and plug-and-play makes me very excited for the future.

[@CRIZS_CREATIONS]

More Companies coming out competing for the evolving potentially new untapped marketing of in home innovation with New Printers and not just that but somewhat Feature packed with improved Quality makes for increased commercial competition, making the retail market very competitive for us the buyer. In 5 years time I think we will have Printers that we don't even have to touch possibly with auto spool loading which is a Win Win lol

[@xpy99]

@@CRIZS_CREATIONS Well, bambulab ams already have the auto spool load and unload

[@mhgscrubadub9917]

It pretty wild how much the fire gets lit when the community will just do it themselves or walk away from companies that dont step up. I can't wait for corexy to take over the space im tired of cartisian bs

[@zear1997]

its because they are charging a subscription to use everything $100 a year, and their camera set up is very faulty and crashes and all of their site and app are really bad, slow response and buggy.

[@leeball4]

I picked up a K1 a little over a month ago at a store with a $200 off coupon. I had an Ender 3 in a box that would have cost me about the same to upgrade that way I wanted so I decided to buy the K1 instead (I donated the Ender to our HS where my friend teaches Engineering). I have had the exact same out of the box experience as Joel and this K1Max. It has been a transformative tool for me. I bought an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max around the same time which has also been a great experience, it's got some teething pains but is loads easier to operate than an Ender 3. Between these 2 printers I feel like I've been freed from being a 3D printer and can focus on being a maker.

[@Guyuncensored]

im thinking of buying the elegoo 4 max/plus and close it with perspex or the k1 max. whih one do you recommend?

[@RoseKindred]

Can you tell me the issues with the EN4 Max? I have one coming but thinking of canceling due to the many bad reviews on Ama.

[@ahmadilyas5736]

How did you get a $200 coupon though ? That would be insane

[@leeball4]

Microcenter does some crazy deals, I got it for $380US with the coupon, on Black Friday they were selling them for $350US, I should have grabbed a 2nd@@ahmadilyas5736

[@christopherscott2012]

how has the print bed been I've seen people saying it's been warping after some use. been looking at picking one up but still iffy on it

[@qwertyzxaszc6323]

This is the absolutely best prototyping machine. I have been printing with this thing non-stop from day one without issues! (knock on wood). ASA, TPU, everything. Awesome machine.

[@SledheadGaming]

you've had good luck with tpu? i do a fairly production style printing for some industrial stuff and have been curious about this one

[@Dave_the_Dave]

Here's why I think the 0.4 mm nozzle is good, actually: the nozzle diameter doesn't restrict the maximum flow rate very much, it will happily print wider and thicker lines for inner walls and infill, and it still allows for detailed surface layers. I just printed a bunch of parts with 1 mm line width and 0.4 mm layer height, on a 0.4 mm nozzle. I have maximum flow rate pegged for the entire print, yielding the shortest possible print time. I've even gone up to 2 mm wide by 0.6 mm high for vase mode prints. The bottleneck is the hotend and material, not so much nozzle diameter. Of course things change with "filled" filaments.

[@AlbertoMartinez765]

0.6 is better because it's Faster for the same quality.

[@Dave_the_Dave]

@@AlbertoMartinez765 the whole point of my comment is that it's not the nozzle diameter that matters. It's all about maximizing flow rate. A 0.6 mm nozzle is not faster than 0.4 mm nozzle, because 0.4 does not significantly limit the flow rate. You can do bigger extrusions just fine with 0.4 mm nozzle.

[@djklermundable]

Your .6 nozzles will do perfect .4 outer wall lines to without the need to mess with the rest of the speed settings.

[@djklermundable]

@@sierraecho884 shows how much you know about 3d printing! In creality slicer and im sure all the rest, you can change the outer wall width, or any other lines made, from the width of the nozzle .6 to .4mm or whatever you desire, .2, .3 ect, then there is another setting, I think in the speed section, that controls those lines that are set to smaller than the nozzle. (UNDERSTAND THIS AND DO SOME LEARNING) The printer just does those lines at a faster pace than the others to STRECH the filiment thinner! You are left with a part that has most lines at .6mm and your outer wall in this case is .4mm.

[@djklermundable]

@@sierraecho884 you are absolutely wrong. It's amazing with all your learning that you can't understand that smarter people than us have done the math and already figured this out and the setting in cura or the creality port of cura specifically states it is what the setting is for. I'm surprised you understand how a thicker line than the nozzle can be produced but you can't understand how a thinner line can be produced. You can even see it in the sliced preview. I have been using this feature for a while now with great results on prints where it cant quite fit my desired number of perimeters and a void is left in the middle. As I have been servicing much more complicated 2d printers, ie. 1200lb office machines for 25 years, I'm also no slouch when it comes to these things. This only helped with theory of operation tho, as the only reason I know it exists as I always tell my slicers, yes multiple including paid slicers, to display all settings, expert mode in cura, and I read the description for EVERY setting in the program. Haven't you done that? I would assume someone with similar work experience would have done that. Il tell you what, you go search for the settings and if you can't find them I will upload a video pointing them out and show it working in action. You are wrong and I am right and I can prove it.

[@andrewking2590]

funny...you know Creality would have never made the K1 unless they didn't get kicked in the butt by Bambu Labs.

[@kaihlis]

Well thats how our consumer market works. Nothing to do with creality, but all of the market

[@EngineeringAdjacent]

Gotta love capitalism

[@northernlight8857]

@@andrewking2590 Does Bambu Labs have anything that prints as big as this?

[@corrupted1850]

@@northernlight8857 no the size aspect of it though was because of the prusa XL

[@borisgraell]

@@kaihlis lol, thats exactly what happened with intel before amd ryzen

[@barrypybas8996]

Just received my K1 Max Thursday, started to perform the Quick Start procedure Friday. Got to the point of installing the glass top, and much to my dismay, the frame and enclosure was twisted about 3/16" so the glass would not seat properly. In posting this issue on the Creallity K1 Max forum, the feedback was significantly populated with other new owners facing the same issue. The majority were quite specific to send it back for a replacement as the path of attempting repairing it with factory supplied parts is frought with disappointment and frustration. I had high hopes of an easier path and near immediate productivity. Am waiting on the support team to return to work so my warranty request might be processed.

[@beaker2000]

I decided to eventually get a K1 Max once I found out that Micro Swiss was going to build products for it. I have a "fully" upgraded CR10S PRO which is a fantastic printer after upgrades, many Micro Swiss parts including their hot end and direct drive extruder. Thick cast aluminum plate, AC bed heater, linear rails on x and y, elostomer springs on build table. Printer is solid as anything. But I want a faster core xy printer and the K1 Max seems to be evolving quickly and Micro Swiss support seals the deal for me.

[@emiellr]

If you were to compare the print quality of the prints seen in this video, how would your CR10S compare? Is it comparable? I've seen many people rice out their printers, but I never got a reference for how far you can push those machines.

[@beaker2000]

@@emiellr my cr10spro was upgraded to a v2 with sensor, cast AL bed, AC bed Heating, Linear Rails on X and Y, Direct drive Swiss Micro print head, isomer bushings instead of springs for bed adjustment (highly recommended over springs). It prints incredibly well, is highly accurate and has been utterly reliable. But not as fast as the K1Max.

[@premrockon]

Why wont you buy a sovol sv08?

[@treyduval5399]

@@beaker2000 I’ve been contemplating transitioning to linear rails on X and Y and possibly Z on my CR-10s (basically pro with the BTT E3 V3 board / 3.5 touch screen and Microswiss NG) what is your opinion? Also, is the cast aluminum bed a lot better than the stock bed? And I have vibration compensation feet. Is that what you’re using the elostomer springs for? I don’t know if I will go to an AC bed, I don’t mind waiting a little longer to heat up.

[@beaker2000]

@treyduval5399 the. Ast aluminum bed is a game changer. Also AC heating and the micro Swiss direct extrusion and linear rails made my 10Spro a reliable workhorse. Almost never have a failure.

[@minilathemayhem]

Downside to the K1 Max: You might randomly get an issue when leveling the bed where it just sort of decides "Ya know what? When probing the bed, I'm just going to slam the hardened tool steel nozzle into the bed, keep trying to raise the bed, and then finally give up and jet off to the side from where I'm at, gouging the top coating and destroying the bed!" and it'll do that over... And over... And over... For every single test point on the bed. At least, that's what happened with mine >.> And also, sometimes it has really poopy first layers and no amount of playing with the slicer settings will fix it, but for whatever reason a firmware restore will (which is also the only way to fix previously mentioned gouging of the bed while leveling issue)

[@TeddieBean]

Sounds like Creality alright 😂🫠

[@minilathemayhem]

@@tek9058 Not entirely sure, I know turning it off and back on didn't fix the issue for me. Did you set the z-offset in your slicer by any chance? It happened to me after I ran a few prints after setting the z-offset in my slicer and my theory is that *maybe* send it runs the gcode for the z-offset, it's updating the global z-offset by that amount every time, causing it to slowly start getting closer (or if you're using a positive offset, further) to the bed every run until it eventually slams into the bed during auto level.

[@OscarOliu]

They fixed that in the latest firmware.

[@minilathemayhem]

@@OscarOliu Just curious, when was that firmware update released? I was on the latest when it happened to me, which was only maybe 2 weeks ago?

[@kevinrobb3523]

You sure you're not from Bambu's sales team? :)

[@Relentless22]

Glad to hear it worked for you - mine was HOT garbage from day one. No amount of calibration could get a good print, ended up with the bed mesh issues and eventually it offed itself by trying to ram the nozzle through the printer bed until it snapped the whole hotend off… 🤷‍♂️

[@1SmokedTurkey1]

Lol yours is the normal Creality experience. His is the exception and he should've made that abundantly clear. Anyone who's been printing for a while knows +1 in 5 Creality machines is hot garbage on arrival. He lost credibility with this one.

[@northernlight8857]

Are there any better alternatives in this size or bigger? ​@@1SmokedTurkey1

[@PaddyFromPaddistan]

@@1SmokedTurkey1 while I've only ever owned one printer, my first was an ender 5 pro and the ONLY issues I've ever had were with having to manually level the bed and maybe 3-4 extruder clogs in 5-6 years but that was due to my bad fitment of aftermarket parts.. Quit crying.

[@gordonclement7550]

I wish i had a good experience with my K1 Max. Purchased directly from Creality. Right off the bat, the printer bashed itself into the bed on initial calibration and ripped the build plate sheet. The bed was installed incorrectly from the factory with the front left side much higher. It also dug itself into the back centre while nozzle cleaning. All messages to the support were auto responded but no tech help called. I managed to tram the bed myself. And was able to get some prints off. Then came the first firmware update. All seemed to go well, until the unit recalibrated. Throwing error 3000 and error 2522, sensor errors. Printer would not calibrate, or print. Eventually got someone to respond. All they did was email to say i will get a new bed sent to me. Hope i get it. Hope it solves it. Downgraded the firmware with less than helpful instructions from “live” support. Seriously, took me four times to get them to tell me how. The instructions they went through were incomplete at first missing vital info, then they were incorrect, was like pulling teeth. I doubt i will ever buy a Creality product ever again. Had less problems with the cheap AliEx Prusia clone i had for almost a decade.

[@jasondexter7732]

Best printer I've worked with. In the 50th of a 60 hour print, prints beautifully and quickly. I haven't had any of the problems commonly attributed to it on the KZbins. Feel bad for everyone who hasn't enjoyed it.

[@gregmccormick21]

Mine was junk out of the box

[@mvaluk]

I have a K1 with a new extruder and it's such a wonderful machine. I love it. I feel bad for all the people who beta tested the machine for creality.

[@theguyonyoutube4826]

To be clear, this ships with a better extruder now?

[@mvaluk]

@@theguyonyoutube4826 yes the K1 ships with a new extruder (and maybe you will get a new hot end of your nozzle sock is red). You can tell if you have the new extruder if the knob on top is magnetic. If you don't have a magnet you can visually inspect it and if it's textured (not shiny) it's the new one. I believe that the K1 Max has the new Extruder and Hot end.

[@McOldwolf]

At least they've set up the K1 Power Boost Kit to get the new extruder / Camera out to the beta testers as a sorry, a fair move on their side ;)

[@adammichoo2930]

Does the new extruder still has plastic gears?@@mvaluk

[@mvaluk]

@@adammichoo2930 I haven't opened it up to look

[@mariec.vannest5701]

This hot end upgrade is exactly what I needed for my K1 Max, Can't wait to improve my prints!

[@SikhFPV]

Did you watch the video? Print results were same lol only pro with it is faster nozzle changing

[@fpvbuilds2023]

Joel your gonna get alot of heat for this video, alot of people have been having issues with their k1's to the point where people are returning them

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Yup. I know. I’m not. Is it cherry picked? Is it just a proper machine? I don’t know.

[@VincentGroenewold]

@@3DPrintingNerd At least it could've been mentioned though, the video did sound overly positive. Which is your experience I'm sure, but I think a bit of context is always a good idea to avoid people saying this was "totally paid for".

[@fpvbuilds2023]

just looking out for you, from one creator to another, you dont want it to come off like Creality is paying you under the table for promotion when there is a whole community of people having issues with this machine, iam a big fan of you btw just giving you an opinion@@3DPrintingNerd

[@TheOfficialDarkICE]

@@VincentGroenewold You think he wasn't?

[@stevepettenon1]

I don't believe the guy at all. He'll say whatever the company paying him wants said.

[@ThePrintHouse]

Great video. I might be checking out this hotend for the k1 series because I truly think creality has something wonderful on their hands. Now they need to make an AMS

[@OrdinaryManiac]

Always loved Creality for 2 screws that run through their hotends that allowed me to change nozzle with one hand without supporting heatblock with a wrench

[@bruddaozzo]

I'd recommend you still support the heat block. Depending how tight the nozzle is you can bend those screws. I did this exact thing on my s1 pro

[@brandonbrown3600]

​@@bruddaozzonozzle shouldn't be that tight. If so it's over torqued.

[@stevekay6895]

They have really gotten their act together recently, does make buying a printer in 2023 a little bit harder of a decision.

[@anonymousperson7861]

No they haven't, using a ripped off Fluidd interface violating GPL, making the extruder out of copper for some reason and half the features they advertise not working, it's typical creality in a new slicker design.

[@stevekay6895]

@@anonymousperson7861 to act like all that means they haven’t IMPROVED their machines is a little short sighted

[@anonymousperson7861]

@@stevekay6895 it's better than the ender 3 capability wise but everyone has moved on since 2015, they continue making the same mistakes, technical progress is easy when you make clones.

[@northernlight8857]

​@@anonymousperson7861At this bedsize or higher which printers are better? And that comes enclosed at the relatively same price point?

[@anyalei]

I mean I'm not saying this is a bad printer, but i did see quite some ghosting on the ABS basket. Maybe i am being overly critical, but for a perfect part, I'd expect this not to be an issue. It looks like the printer does have some quality issues around sharp corners at the very least. I'd love to be convinced of the contrary btw. If that one issue weren't there I'd buy this machine immediately.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I’ll look again once back in the studio. While looking at the basket I was more paying attention to the ropes than the body as I was surprised that even printed well.

[@anyalei]

@@3DPrintingNerd and with no delamination on these small cross sections! This is definitely a competent machine, I'm just worried the input shaping might not be up to the task. Unless ofc belt tension is off or something. Thanks for your content and answer btw, much appreciated!

[@jphysco]

I saw that to.

[@ethancohen6005]

I love how the models are well known, tuned models. Because not everyone will print those constantly and have no issues. A lot of people will print other models. But that's just on that. Micro Swiss is awesome

[@missMoshie]

I feel like I fell asleep on the couch and woke up to one of those 3am HSN specials with the gain at +24db. Have Joel's videos always been just 10 sponsor reads back to back?

[@rexgoodheart3471]

So, I bought this Micro Swiss Flow Tech hot end, and I have to say I like it.... the prints so far have been beautiful. BUT.... changing out the hot end that came installed on the printer was a bit of a pain. My particular problem was that the two hot end connectors that need to be removed were GLUED in place and didn't come out easily. After yanking on them for a while with needle-nosed pliers they finally loosened, but in the process the wire leads inside those receptacles got bent. Thankfully I noticed all that before I tried to plug in the Flow Tech.... if I had tried to plug in the Flow Tech with those bent connectors I would not have made proper contact and I probably would not have known later what went wrong.

[@kostyuchenka]

Hi! Thanks for a video! Please tell me where I can find such a beautiful model of the Tiny Dragon that you printed in the video?

[@mandyj5222]

I am reading through the comments for that too!! He's so cute!!

[@RaphaRox]

funny thing is that I'm watching this while I have bubbles in my thumb cause of a nozzle change lmao

[@quebecmultirotor5013]

1 big flaw that creality has it that its not selling parts to fix or maintenance the printer, that's why i'd still go with bambu over this, i saw a post where somebody was trying to get the heatsink above the hotend, he went to creality directly and they would not even sell the part to the poor guy, fixability is a great deal on those things, and should not be taken lightly

[@iiianydayiii]

I don't mind upgrading my own printer but the main reason I'd stick w/ this is the ability to use vanilla Klipper and also, I don't like Bambu's dependency on cloud services. The only reason I'd get a Bambu is for their AMS. If Creality released a multi-color upgrade, it'd be a true game changer.

[@WerHatDieKokosnuss]

You can use Bambu printers perfectly without using their cloud services. I've printed hundreds of hours on my P1S and never used the Cloud once.

[@protomanialab]

Thank you for your video but what about the tolerance? I'd like to buy one 3d printer for my business but I need a good building precision; thank you

[@Basement_CNC]

you can expect tolerances od +-0.1mm with 3d printing .... wich is precise enough for hobby woodworking, but nothing compared to machining, cncs or anything like that

[@protomanialab]

@@Basement_CNC thank you very much 🙂

[@preppcomm]

I use it to print parts for a product as wide as 295 mm. They must fit a PCB that is cut to 0.2mm resolution. It fits. I had problems with my Prusa XL with dimensional accuracy (it was off by 1%) so I had to expand the model in the 3D modeling program (Shapr3D) by 1% to compensate. I never got to try that, however, because the K1 MAX arrived, and I am a happy camper. I can print one part of the product overnight (7 hours in normal speed mode), and the rest of the parts in 6 hours (fast mode) and get one product completed per day per machine. That is 20/month. Pays for a new machine every month, because it would cost me over $100 to get the parts printed outside.

[@Donniewherman]

Great video. Love the review. One thing is I just cannot agree with the criticism of shipping a 0.4mm nozzle on a printer, even if it is a big printer. Most people have 0.4mm printing needs, regardless of the bed size. I bought a few CR-M4s for example and still use a 0.4mm nozzle on them. If I want to use a large size printer to batch print smaller models, I still need the 0.4mm nozzle. Also, just because a single model is larger, doesn't mean you need to use a bigger nozzle and increase layer size. I get it, if you are an ETSY seller and need to cut time down, then install a 0.6mm nozzle or bigger, but the default 0.4mm is a good choice and the manufactures know it.

[@benjaminsmith62]

Mine works perfectly, ABS, PLA, TPU, SBS, PETG. I've been trying PP the last week and its been a back and forth to get the temperatures right, but after about 3 days it works. Minimal clogging, great printing speed. Really can't complain, just had to move the material spool to the top of the machine, also done with relative ease.

[@honoremorneau434]

I appreciate the detailed review of the Flow Tech hot end. Very informative!

[@WolfManCrabArms]

A lot of people saying .4 should come instead of .6 .4 IS great, but with a .4 out of the box you can print anything, as long as it's not glow in the dark, sparkles, carbon fiber, glass fiber, wood, marble etc .6 you can print anything out of the box. Its just a better option for out of the box because it covers more materials.

[@McOldwolf]

So far I didn't have any issues with glow in the dark filament using the .4 hardened steel nozzle on the K1 :)

[@WolfManCrabArms]

​@@McOldwolf It's the glow in the dark that has flakes, like Captubes Firefly blue or Amolen Starry Sky

[@samarjpadhya973]

Micro Swiss support seals the deal for me. It's reassuring to have their products available.

[@zachviolante]

Didn't realize the whole video was going to turn into a micro swiss advertisement.

[@theglowcloud2215]

Man, I'm so glad to hear you talk about how unbelievably terrible swapping nozzles on machines like the Prusa Mini is. It was *so* easy to damage things while manipulating two wrenches around a heater block and I'm so glad that dark age is behind us.

[@anonymousperson7861]

whole prusa mini was a terrible machine, I hate mine, tear down the extruder every 10 minutes, flimsy, terrible v6 knockoff hotend, what were they thinking? idk

[@BitBeatMusic-mx3rx]

share how you configure the 0.8 nozzle in to creality print software, how about the new Creality Print Software

[@Arek_R.]

I've built a voron 2.4r2 and it prints very well with the 0.4mm nozzle, the moment I use 0.6mm nozzle with adjusted parameters, but same 0.2mm layer height, the quality goes ass, so bad the prints completely fail.

[@ilco31]

the new style of nozzles are so much better .as their is no chance of leakages .it makes changing nozzles so much quicker as no re leveling of the bed is needed as much

[@MaGra1959]

Hi, thanks for your great video! What increase in speed do you have with the 0.6 and 0.8 mm nozzles? I just see the K1 Max print very slow in the background ... I am also missing a video sequence to see how easy it is to change the nozzles with the Micro Swiss FlowTech Hotend.

[@vishnubarvadekar8002]

I'm thrilled about the K1 Max's potential for faster core xy printing. That's exactly what I need.

[@TheNewBloodDan]

The K1 series of printers are awesome! Loving my K1 SE!

[@alexsemine1]

Very nice!! What about pressure advance and resonance compensation? There is some ghosting on the edges of that knitted basket. The pressure advance i saw that it should calibrate itself with the lidar but most users in forums say it is not working properly. Maybe it works now? Or is it possible to calibrate it manually? Cheers

[@karlosss1868]

When I noticed Joel not mentioning the ghosting AND using pliers on the nozzle, I had to look for another channel for a review on this printer.

[@Lance_Tonkin98]

Had one for a week now....its...perfect. A must buy!! Prints everything perfectly

[@JBCool0729]

I purchased by watching your videos and the problem is that Creality change to new hot end including connectors so I couldn't install. That is onK1 Max.

[@freightuk]

Question - You have many spools of filament stored openly, do you ever dry them before use or is your room kept at low humidity?

[@MrBaskins2010]

So glad you’re finally a member of the big nozzle boys

[@mohistschool1003]

I have K1 MAX and QIDI Max3, i perfer QIDI Max3 for ABS/PA/PC. Bigger build size and chamber heating , K1 MAX have the extruder issue, hotend issue, bad auto leveling(even i cant adjust it)

[@escobarguan4222]

how long do you have quidi max 3

[@mohistschool1003]

2 months@@escobarguan4222

[@garrettslobey9204]

I just cant bring myself to buy crealtiy products ever again. Im glad youre having a good experience. I have learned with creality, it's also good to wait 6 months to a year. They seem to either fix the problems, or just stop making the product cause it sucks so bad....

[@RaySchrantz]

This is the printer I'm leaning towards the most, but I wish there was an option for multi material printing, that's the only thing this printer is missing for me. I don't want to cave into Bambu and get locked into their ecosystem, but it does have everything except for the huge print bed, which is at least better than my Prusa mini

[@WerHatDieKokosnuss]

Get a Prusa then 👍

[@RaySchrantz]

@@WerHatDieKokosnuss Prusa's CoreXY printer is too expensive and that's my number 1 requirement if I'm going to spend money on a new printer. $1000 more than a fully kitted Bambu X1C for just two nozzles. If I could afford it I would though.

[@BeefIngot]

Bambulab doesnt lock you in... its a printer. You can use a different one if you want.

[@Alexander_Of_Pines]

But K1 Max printers also have custom parts, no?But at least for Bambu you can buy most of the parts already for same or cheaper price than regular stores. Im in search of a printer to upgrade to and right now settling on Bambu P1S with filament switch box. What bothers me in K1 Max is what many youtubers reported , like poor design choices, filament enters into head unit at sharp angle, which can produce wear, the tube can also unlock the extruder at some angles, the head belts are not running in parallel (more of esthetic issue it seems but still) , questionable firmware (people reporting here that nozzle can smash into bed), ai features not doing much. The bed size is nice and the usb port for print files if you want to go offline. But everything else is questionable. Judging from other video neither printer is truly locked, and you can swap every part you want, its more of a question if it will fit in the enclosed body constraints. With Bambu it seems it will just work and for K1 it will just work ... after you change nozzle, after you change extruder, after you put clean klipper on , after.... and so on :/

[@RaySchrantz]

@@Alexander_Of_Pines All good points. I ended up caving in and going with the X1 Carbon with the AMS. It's just too good and now $150 off plus filament discounts. I was originally thinking if I did get the X1 Carbon I would wait to buy the AMS later, but I ended up deciding to go for it because it saves me an extra $100 later by getting the combo and I can pay for it over 6 months through PayPal interest free. I know I cohave done what you did with the P1S, but I don't plan on buying another printer for a long time and I want it to have all the features I'm looking for. The build volume is honestly enough for now and if I really need something bigger I can get the Neptune 4 Max for not that much in comparison.

[@zedzknight]

Joel would you recommend this over a Diamondback Volcano nozzle? The diamondback would still need to be torqued into place, and not be able to hotswap. But the Tip on the Diamondback being a non-stick surface and potentially better printing quality. What would be your pick?

[@coedshowers]

i havent even got through the first 1/2 of the oem spool they send... it keeps clogging, the hotend has died and stpped heating consistantly, got a new one then the extruder stopped working..... had this 4 months waiting for repair parts for 3/4 of that time....

[@mjethier]

i just got mine a week ago today...was able to print a benchy. kept clogging at the heatbreak/nozzle section. Had to remove extruder in order to yank out of that mess. This part came today. Just fighting with the connectors now that are glued in 4 life.

[@noplacetogo800]

I don't know, mayby they send you a well tuned model or so, but my experience with K1 max is totally different. I heve some major issues form the start, with print quality (Z wobble, ghosting, ringing despite IS calibration), overheating estruder that cloggs while printing PLA, problems with bed leveling, because nozzle wipping does not work properly and nozzle lefts residue during initial 4 point meassuring (before mesh leveling), vibrating housing making terrible noise, wired plastic smell of inside of the chamber, nozzle coliding with bed, making problems with usb drive every time I disconnect from the printer (it requres repare in the system). I'm so confused, that you do not have any of this issues. My S1 plus prints better than K1 max...

[@3DPrintingNerd]

It’s crazy right? It’s such a mess that I can have a perfect experience and you did not. I’m sorry.

[@noplacetogo800]

Well, good for you! Only saying, I watched many reviews before purchase and belived that it is worth to buy, but (c)realty hit hard.

[@preppcomm]

My previous experience with Creality - a $200 machine - was terrible. I hesitated on buying the K1 MAX, but the people at MatterHackers suggested it as a medium priced machine to replace my Prusa XL that was acting up. Next suggestion up had a glass printing surface - NO WAY. Next was several thousand $$. So I got one and it works very well ... so far :)

[@lynnmckenney1987]

I picked up my first 3d printer (and ender 5 s1) last year and....it left a realllly bad taste in my mouth. I have basically spent all my time leveling, re-leveling and re-leveling the printer and still cannot get consistent prints. I'm glad to see this one is a huge improvement...I'm just really hesitant after my 5 s1 experience.

[@awilliams1701]

I keep telling people if it has those giant knobs under it don't waste your time. The new ender 3 v3 se is the only ender I'd recommend. Then there is the creality cr10-se and of course this printer as well. A year ago I'd tell people don't waste your time with creality.

[@petercallison5765]

Some of the early Ender 5 S1 machines had a slight twist in the X axis extrusion which causes those leveling issues.

[@Brian-S]

The hyper PLA from creality was awesome tbh. Was able to push my sv06 to nearly 200mms with a .6 nozzle and 5k acceleration without any underextrusion though I was printing a bit hotter

[@Wardarkfox]

the only trouble i ran into swapping to the microswiss was the yellow glue creality placed on the electricals connections. the one with the two thing copper wires was the hardest to remove

[@rexgoodheart3471]

I've submitted an inquiry to the sales department at Micro Swiss but I haven't heard back from them yet... maybe you know the answer.... is there a hardened steel version of their nozzle? And can I get nozzles with different diameters other than the .4mm one included with the hot end?

[@jojack56]

i got this printer as an upgrade from the Ender 3 and holy cow its amazing. straight out of the box its been awesome but now i gotta upgrade to this.

[@Rajonex]

It's great video. I have only one concern. If you have 0.8 nozzle, I assume your minimum layer width is 0.8. If we will keep 0.2 layer height and get max flow rate from MicroSwiss website (35mm3/s) then... Max speed is 212.5 mm/s. So... how is it with extruder skipping/under extrusion issues with normal speed (I think creality is going with over 300mm/s per default)?

[@flat-earther]

I'm thinking getting either this or Flashforge AD5M Pro, which one you reckon is better?

[@LetsRogerThat]

Subscribed. Finally a 3d printed channel I can get behind. Tks. Gilles

[@3DPrintingNerd]

HOT DIGGITY, THANK YOU!

[@Spazer454]

the uncle jessys face when that door shattered priceless

[@chaux13]

Awesome Video, Thanks for the great content and just in case do you know how to connect the K1 Max with Orca Slicer??

[@scotty2salty327]

Nice video brother! Glad to see you review this printer. I just got it myself earlier this week. I was also glad to see you mention the MicroSwiss hotend as I just purchased one prior to seeing your video so it was good to see I made the right move! I was hoping I could hook my Sonic Pad up to the K1 Max though. I know it already runs clipper I just like all of the information and mid print controllability that the Sonic Pad gives you. #1 current layer and #2 extrusion adjustments. Is there a way I can have access to that without the Sonic Pad? And should I familiarize myself with Orca? I have Simplify 3D and I do like it a d have gotten used to it but I'm very annoyed as I don't know how to do pause at layer for a filament color change. Any tips?

[@emillycostacavalcanti4791]

I had a similar nozzle swapping issue with another printer. Glad that's improving.

[@JayBtec]

just ordered one of these 30 mins ago and looking up more videos for it ^^ love the video ^^

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

I so hate changing nozzles on my E3D v6 hotends - having to hold the heater, making sure the heat break doesn't unscrew at all - while trying to get the new nozzle in and torquing it in....ahh.

[@Novagunner]

i was looking on the site, can the nozzle handle the carbon fiber filament?

[@DoRC]

Were those prints using stock creality profiles or did you have to tune those filaments first?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Stock profiles on Orca Slicer

[@robert97dodge]

Just got my k1 max and haven’t even set it up yet. Looking forward to learning with it as this is my first 3D printer. Where did you get the dragon files?

[@travissheets4071]

@3Dpritingnerd have you tried the MK4 3D chameleon ? I’m looking for a good printer with multicolor printing and at least 300mm build plate. Thoughts ?

[@radicalrick9587]

*You just found my next 3D Printer.*

[@JKSSubstandard]

My experience with the K1 max. I plugged it in and haven't touched it since. I imported my ender 3 pla profile in and added some speed to it and it's been perfect since. I've had 3? Total failed prints that weren't directly my fault in the last 9 months

[@AnEngineers3DPrintVerse]

Just installed mine a few moments ago. Man I hope you're right. I have not had a great experience so far by any means.

[@technicavivunt]

I like my triangle labs hotend I got for this not too long ago, but honestly I think the extruder is a much bigger problem on this machine. Hoping some 3rd party steps up and fixes it soon

[@liamventer]

Joel a plated brass nozzle will wear out quickly with abrasives,...the plating won't do a lot to stop this. What you really want is is a hardened steel or ruby or diamond or tungsten carbide nozzle.

[@kevinrobb3523]

Your review is awesome, and it almost made me move off of a Bambu but then, the comments below. "Weird 5cm layer shifting...maybe this hot end will solve my problems...etc. Then I went back and watched the hotend being installed which is arguably simple but not as simple as the Bambu clip in nozzle. I dunno. My only experience is with Resin printing but I'm back to thinking that the Bambu is the way to go. I feel like Creality was rushed getting this to market. I'm going to get an A1 to start and see where all these vendors land on catching up to Bambu features and revisit when I need a larger format, enclosed printer.

[@utkua]

As a bambu owner I am glad to hear creality is getting it together, it is bad to not have compeition. BTW no, I do not consider Prusa as competition anymore.

[@luisalmeidacarvalho1126]

The 0.4 mm nozzle works great for me, but having options is always nice.

[@LaylaDawod]

I had some issues with my K1 Max, but this upgrade might solve them. Excited!

[@TechTonor]

Which issues?

[@werewulf35]

Getting ready to return my second K1 Max. Absolutely nightmare machine. Much better results from my older Ender 3 V2. Wasted a full roll of filament due to layer shifts on multiple different attempts. I really was hoping the K1 Max would work like I needed it to, but not so much.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Oh that’s sucks. I’m so sorry, I wish yours worked like how mine has been working.

[@werewulf35]

@@3DPrintingNerd So do I! Seems like I am one of the few not touring the wonders of it, but this is my second one that has had issues. Time to find an alternative.

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

This video hits home. My Ender 2 Pro just lost a nozzle to rPLA from a local supplier. It totally buggered up the heater block also. So yeh. A few hours of twiddling with it to fix it.

[@neilf.7222]

This is encouraging. I'm looking at purchasing a Creality K1C. Thanks Joel

[@ygalion]

what is great about buying printer and upgrading it as always with creality you have? have you seend bambu lab nozzle change? plug and play

[@JohnWilliams-vy2gw]

Holy.... This is what I've been waiting for. So true about the. 04. And swapping out hardened nozzles.

[@SlfarrowXYZ]

Bricked my printer trying to torque my nozzle/hotend after it leaked. Currently waiting on Creality support/Replacement parts from China to (hopefully) fix my printer. Has been a complete nightmare - I've just recently purchased the bambu labs a1 mini since I'm tired of the issues with Creality printers and really just need something that works out of the box.

[@3dtechnologies153]

I put revos on my printers and love it. I hope that microswiss option is cheaper.

[@nobodyuknow4911]

Me too, I've loved Microswiss since I was learning the ropes on my Ender 5+ and love their products. I hope they get hardened steel options as well, because while "plated brass" sounds like it's abrasion resistant, it's really not enough for when you're printing TONS of glow-in-the-dark (strontium aluminate), white (with titanium dioxide), and of course the infamous fibers like glass fiber and carbon fiber filaments. Maybe they can even split the difference with a swaged hardened steel insert into the brass nozzle to get almost "the best of both worlds".

[@DesignLab1000]

Great vid. SO ... what's the nozzle size of the new Flow Tech nozzle? .6? I looked and can't seem to find it. Got it .08. That's great. I'm jumping up sizes on the hot tips on my FlashForge Creator 3 Pro. Baby steps this time. .06 to start and maybe .08. soon! Thank you for the knowledge!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Comes with a 0.4 but they have all the sizes for it

[@0x187]

there was a new update for the k1 max ,V1.3.2.20 Firmware Update could you do a video on it ?

[@brycehillerman679]

Just grabbed one. I hate the current method of changing nozzles on my K1. I was hoping there was gonna be a revo nozzle for it at some point lol

[@Self.reliant]

Looks like you are printing super slow is that because of the layer height with the larger nozzle?

[@dizz_dila]

I bought a k1 last week and have only printed for 15 hours but I have faced with a problem. The extruder stopped extruding filament and makes clacking noises while trying to push out filament. I tried retracting and using the pushing rod it just hits something and can’t push out any filament. How can i fix my printer?

[@yycfoamwars6557]

Holy crap that 6 nozzle will be 0.8 nozzle by the time it finished printing that glow-in-the-dark unicorn

[@alexstone691]

Considering how expensive nozzles are here from stores (not counting aliexpress) i do not like nozzle and heatbreak combo, nozzle for ender 3 at the only 3d printer related things supplier in serbia is like $10 and the heatbreak is around $22 so how much would this kind of thing be? $30 per nozzle? I would save money to order custom machined nozzles

[@saskiahold1905]

I "inherited" 2 broken K1 Max and 1 broken K1. K1 Max with bed issues when trying to calibrate, K1 with effed up firmware plus a dead cable to the touch display. After diverse repairs involving the vendor, update attempts, etc I indeed got them to work and print somewhat reliably with a print quality that far exceeds the one I got from the Anycubic Vyper (which is less expensive, older, etc). My experience with Creality support is hmm. my impression is that they don't give a fart about servicing their printers, even if they are still under warranty. Anyway, all 3 are working now. I do consider the small nozzle a draw back and have ordered the larger nozzles for the K1 Max. Will try to put together a profile in the Bambu Labs Studio slicer to get it to work properly. Oh, Creality Print 5.0 was utter garbage last time I tried it. I had to downgrade to 4.3 when trying to print with Ender 3 and K1. Would I buy them again ? IDK. I got them increadibly cheap. If I had paid retail I would most likely have gone for a Bambu instead.

[@saskiahold1905]

actually Creality support has since started to provide excellent support and spare parts delivery. Praise where praise is due.

[@art3m_t1mofeev]

How does plated brass nozzle grant you the ability to print CF and even glow-in-the-dark filament? The latter one is usually the most abrasive filament of them all and would require something like obxidian/tungsten or at least hardened steel to survive an acceptable amount of time, isn't it?

[@klave8511]

Good question, the filler will abrade the plating off and then the heat transfer to the filament will be back to whatever was plated, probably steel for abrasion resistance. I suppose that as long as you know the flow rate will be reduced you will be ok, it is a lot longer in this case so lots of time to heat the filament.

[@codyoneill6091]

now here's a question, will that same hot end also fit a ender 3 s1 pro or any printer with a hot end similar to that of a ender 3 s1 pro?

[@rickjohnson415]

Curious to what firmware you are using? Thanks in advance! I appreciate your work!

[@smashinggaming336]

How do you know when to use supports? I see you don't have any supports on those during the printing. I know they are not standing straight up but wondering when is it best ?

[@meadmaker4525]

I want to like this printer. It's got a larger build volume and seemed to do a pretty good job on the prints you threw at it, and with that hot-end swap it seems to now be a better machine all around. But the overall feedback from users/owners of the K1 Max is really, really bad. People having issues with the machine trying to destroy it's own internals, poor customer support and/or parts availability, etc, etc. Every time I read those reviews, I feel like I go back to the X1C as the thing that just works...but then I want larger build volume than 256 cubed and I start looking at other printers again. It's frustrating trying to come to an informed decision on which printer to buy when so many of them seem to be nothing but problems and money pits filled with frustration. Isn't there a large volume 3D FDM printer out there that just works well?

[@EniSpahiu1988]

Hello. If you have to choose between X1C and K1 MAX which will be your choice?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

X1C.

[@congresstart6463]

Man I wish more people would mention VFA on CoreXY printers. You can see it on the Candy Corn. Coming from a well dialed bed slinger, my K1 Max has terrible VFA in comparison. If I had known this was an issue I would not have purchased this unit and stayed with my caveman printer that bangs out quality prints. Also, my other new printer Neptune 4 Plus, has its own issues (Zoffset) but the quality prints it pumps out (and faster than the K1 in some aspects) are pretty amazing for just a "bed slinger".

[@Zachary3DPrints]

Great video about the Creality K1 Max and the upgrade with the Microswiss hotend