4 Mistakes During Disc Brake Pads Replacement On Your Bike.

[@marco4570]

Protip: Use two screwdrivers. One from top, the other from the bottom, touching each other in between the pistons. Push the screwdrivers forward into each other. it allows you to put linear pressure on the pistons.

[@ClaudiuB]

I used one thin Allen key. You can insert it all the way between the pistons, but make sure that everything is symmetrical. And then push with both thumbs on the Allen key so it will push the brake piston back, but again, push and place your fingers symmetrically

[@sivram435]

@@ClaudiuB 👍 I was wondering if I even had two screw drivers.

[@armyfreak1367]

You remind me of wrooongway

[@haziqhqal9436]

love from Malaysia 🇲🇾

[@justk6988]

Jauh naw travel 🇲🇾

[@deanroodt]

Screwdrivers are a bad choice. Ruined a pair of shimano SlX. Just buy the right tool for the job

[@bazahaza]

I use my plastic tyre leavers.

[@johndef5075]

Use plastic tire levers instead of screwdrivers.

[@dominicbritt]

Doesn’t matter if you’re pushing back pads that are due for replacement …

[@alfrecletero]

How about resetting the pads before changing them? That way you'll scratch the old pads with the screwdriver and not the new ones.

[@usaisamess8880]

He did that

[@ToThePointCT]

Great idea

[@alfrecletero]

@@usaisamess8880 you're right, not sure why I thought he did it after replacement 🤔🤦🏻‍♂️

[@danieldavis1041]

#1 1:37 - Sintered pads on Resin-only rotors #2 4:30 - Contaminated pads #3 6:34 - Using force when resetting pistons #4 11:46 - Contaminating rotors on reinstallation You're welcome.

[@jim5256]

sintered an resin are the same thing. be worthless with somebody else's eyesight.

[@ruvimbond2310]

Thanks

[@istvanszabo2853]

Thanks bro!

[@slavekn]

@@jim5256 sintered = metalic versus resin = organic

[@J_M_D_90]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌

[@WildMidwest1]

Three tips: (1] I blow-torch my sintered pads every time they are out. (2) After degreasing the rotors with acetone, I perform a light sanding perpendicular to the rotational axis. Then I wipe the rotors with 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove metal fragments and oils that may have deposited. (3) Season the brakes after each cleaning with 6-10 graded power stops. This method seems to keep my brakes in tip-top form.

[@giuze-explore]

Nice tips but one other mistake I learned from another video is to clean around the pistons before to push them inside. So if you have any mud or dirt around the piston, you won't put dust on the ring.

[@999DaveUK]

Great tips. Before pushing the pistons back it's better to clean around their edges or you'll push dirt back in and damage the seals. Also better to ensure both pistons are moving in unison by "exercising" them.

[@balazsnagy7170]

Man, you just saved me from ruining my rotors. I already chose (incorrectly) metal pads for my Shimano BR-M6000 calipers. Today, few hours before going to the store I stumbled upon your video. I cleaned my rotors and they say "Resin pads only" but this was completely covered by dust, never even noticed it. My calipers came with Shimano G02S resin pads (I checked and realized this only now, didn't need to touch the brakes for more than a year), now there's an upgraded model G03S, which is also resin but a little more durable. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, so I didn't end up buying the metal pads! :-)

[@rothschildkilledjfk6237]

You should of cleaned the Pistons before forcing them in like that, You just forced dirt back in which will led to a lazy piston just sayin, Ohhh and you should of lubed the piston with the brake fluid ur manufacture use.

[@Tubecraft1]

How would you recommend cleaning the pistons ? Depending on how I do it could I end up pushing more dirt into the seals than if I just push the pistons back ?

[@MurphDawgProductions]

Should’ve *

[@andrewcosmatos339]

Isn't it good practice to push out the pistons slightly and clean them before pushing them in else you could contaminate the seals which could cause leaks?

[@DuncanStewart-xd1jw]

Might be easier opening the bleed screw at the caliper end when pushing the pistons in, rather than messing about at the reservoir. Works for car brakes.

[@BushmanCanuck]

Safer too...especially sram.

[@beforedawn]

I know this is old but it's still helpful. If you've used ceramic pads, how do you like them? where do the fit between resin-metal? Pros/cons?

[@tigerbmwm3]

Glad to see my country Malaysia on the disc.. factory is in my home country, but its super hard to find a original pads for bicycle.. i wonder why.

[@norwegiantroll2480]

Because none cares about Malaysia. Especially Shimano. They use your country only as cheap work force.

[@buildersedge888]

Very informative video. Thank your for taking the time to put this together. The part about pushing out the rotors before replacing the pads was especially helpful. Now I know why I couldn't get my rotor (and wheel) into the brake. Thanks again.

[@denisosipov840]

If you degrease your pistons in caliper, they will be oxidized in feature. You should use some silicon lube on pistons.

[@ethanmoore7648]

So could you use muc-off silicone shine?

[@moe9142]

I got some additional Tipps and Information here: If you only touched the brakepads with your fingers, you should be ok by going on a flat, straight street and accelerating to a moderate speed. Then braking hard should be hot enough to heat up and burn the oil. You should have "normal working brakes" after 15-20 times repeating this. To clean the rotors you can put them in a bucket with a mixture of hot water and normal "dish cleaning soap", afterwards spray the rotors with something like "brake cleaner" and some minutes later use a paper towel to wipe if off again. From the moment on, when you move the rotor out of the complete brake, DON'T EVER PULL ON THE BRAKE LEVER, otherwise the pistons will come out and the "brake-system" will leak mineral oil. New brakepads always need some time until they have their maximum braking-power, so wait for them to reveal their normal power before hitting steeper descends!

[@vik6885]

This mistake happened to me while testing the other wheel wher I put the rotor back in and I accidently pulled on the lever of the wheel without the rotor. The pad and some oil came out. I managed to push the pad back in nicely however there is no pressure on the lever now. I hope replacing the oil will fix the issue.

[@moe9142]

@@vik6885 Actually just bleeding your brake should be enough to fix it, I think GMBN also have Videos about doing that!👍

[@herculesmclovin]

Great tips thank you. I would mention... Clean pistons *before* resetting/pushing back in. Otherwise you are pushing dirt into the seals of the pistons 👍

[@sergioquinonez5475]

Excellent video ...good camera work , thoroughly explaining step by step ...well done indeedy!

[@robertkirk4387]

with all the oil and grease on the roads these days you could be changing pads every week

[@michaelray2104]

You can just use sandpaper and grind them for 5 seconds then put alcohol and light them on fire. It will be just like the brand new one

[@hcw199]

PRO TIP.... Use Rim Brakes.

[@ToThePointCT]

I agree my hydraulic disc brakes have been the bane of my life

[@bradolson8242]

Another good solvent for cleaning rotors is isopropyl alcohol 99%.

[@hench_wrench_repairs]

I run the pads right down to the backing plate, i paid for all the material im gonna use all the material

[@davidlynch9049]

How do you know? 🤔

[@hench_wrench_repairs]

@@davidlynch9049 know what

[@GodAwfulUsername]

I like your style

[@cyclepro101]

You should never just reset you pistons without removing the pads and cleaning the pistons, otherwise you are just pushing all the crap back inside the housing

[@olliebodman9771]

Changed mine today, but my front brake lever is solid when braking but my back brake lever is spongy but works 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ what do you think

[@callumw9067]

do you not add some copper grease to the back of the pad?

[@makantahi3731]

why, to reduce drag of braking?, joke, it is used on cars, not need on bikes

[@wanderer2246]

You said that brakes can be damaged when brake liquid is pushed out of the system, but I had an incident with my Deore XT brakes when brakes lever was pushed super hard (by an obsticle) and I after examination of the bike saw that the liquid was pushed out of the system at the lever side as well as somewhere on the caliper side with splashes left on fork. Though, brakes still works, I didn't bleed them after that yet, the only thing is they feel a bit more stronger with a closer stroke point. Actually don't understand how too high pressure in the system can break them, as then in some critical situations this means you can be left without brakes if you apply too much pressure?

[@dannywilliams8115]

Really good and informative tips, one of the best bike maintenance videos without a shadow of a doubt 👏🏽

[@g.fortin3228]

Gotta step up the tempo ..less ahhh's ... needed a coffee after this. Good info and thanks though. Just dragged out a little much.

[@kioanakos]

Click on settings and set the playback speed to 1.5

[@g.fortin3228]

@@kioanakos Hah ! yeah I ended up skipping around

[@catkoala]

How about to clean the pistons? Doesn't matter that you reset the pistons if the pistons doesn't move evenly because of dirt n stuff.

[@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene]

Sounds like disc brakes have 30 years of technology to catch up on. Contamination on wet roads is a given and a certainty, why are these brakes not weather resistant? Why are we still getting toys on our bicycles. still waiting for good wheels that last at least half as long as the frame. Still waiting for disc brakes that can be set by mounting the caliper while squeezing the shoes together at the lever. Still waiting for intelligent cassette gear ratio's.Still waiting for bikes to become vehicles instead of toys.

[@chrisbee4702]

I’m bringing my bike to a professional shop now lol

[@matthewotremba9230]

I keep a bag of tongue depressors around , good for pressing pistons , an cleaning , getting into tight spaces . They are soft , yet rigid

[@johndef5075]

Plastic tire levers work well too.

[@joeMopar412]

If you have a minimum 180mm rotor mount, could you use a (160 to 180mm) adapter to install a 203mm rotor?

[@LetRippr]

Great tips, learnt some great points, even though been doing it for years!

[@biglounumber12]

Do i have to remove the wheel or can i just remove the calipers instead??

[@TheMwarner88]

Best bike mechanics video i've ever seen. Thank you!

[@someformofhuman]

Are those Acera components? If so, I have a Tern Joe P27 (A 650B touring foldie) with the exact setup and moreover a coincidence that I need to replace my rear brake pads today. They're so worn down until I hear a metal-on-metal rubbing noise recently. I took out the pads and yikes!! Less than 0.2mm of pads left, it's almost stripped bare nearly touching the metal plates. Oddly the front pads are completely fine. Thanks for the video. I do not mind doing a mini-review of my bike someday for your Channel. :)

[@sticksman7819]

Good video demonstration with clear explanations.these are little jobs il look forward to attempting and my new bike has hydraulic breaks which is something I've never had.you can get so much info from youtube.👍🏻

[@rahmanenam]

I put new pads but when i ride bike then brake does not work properly.can you tell me why.

[@snaky1337]

after putting the new pads , do I need to do something more special to do on the first ride

[@isaacnunis]

Hmm,why is my country name (malaysia) is there?Made in Malaysia?

[@Simon-ls8xf]

How to adjust brake bite, I replace pads now there is no travel on a brake levers

[@mtbboy1993]

The degreaser you used is meant to be rinsed off with water.

[@educationalvideos4151]

Also, Shimano says to only use alcohol or soapy water, to avoid damaging seals

[@smallhatshatethetruth7933]

@@educationalvideos4151 I push out the pistons then use a pipe cleaner soaked in mineral oil to get the dirt off of the pistons

[@osheathedj]

instead of pushing the pistons in, you should be using a bleeding block

[@wilcurran3377]

Excellent video. Clear and concise. Thanks very much!!!

[@davidlynch9049]

That was excellent. Very detailed and I need to do it. Thanks.

[@MD-S282]

Thank you so much for this, it is really helpful. Very clear and easy to follow. The close-ups really help too!

[@magnusmowat8024]

Brilliant video and well explained thank you

[@mazditzo]

I use plastic tire levers to push the piston

[@LexGorod]

the 5 mistake is not to do the bed-in your break disk and pads

[@jty9631]

I do it the lazy way just leaving the wheel on there 😁

[@Vitonolable]

7:47 you also not supposed to use metal to push pads

[@showze21]

excellent how to do disc brakes video

[@slumduck63]

not the bike shop. try a chemist or drug store. very cheap

[@jordsfjords885]

finally some very good video with great explanation!

[@mybluebelly]

You`re not making any sense. Subscribed !

[@JohnSmith-qv6hp]

Boooorong.yku drag it out too long

[@andrelloyd4010]

A fifth mistake is to assume NEW pad faces don't need degreasing prior to fitting. Part of your pad fitting regime should be to degrease new pad faces which takes only seconds with an atomising degreaser. Removing a few thousands of an inch off the new faces using a fine grit paper is further reassurance that possible contaminants in production - packaging - storage or shipping are removed prior to fitting. Best wishes and happy pedalling !

[@julienmka9592]

I'm just watching this video just after making the 3rd mistake, rip 6month old M7100 brakes...

[@johnlaing9124]

Please make your points quicker! You do labour your points

[@عالمالأفرشةالمنزلية-ر5خ]

Help me ? Any time i pull my rear brakes it gives me an annoying noise like scratching not squealing

[@M-DIY]

عالم الأفرشة المنزليةclean your pads and disc with dish soap, then sand them with 400 grit sandpaper.

[@stoianRT]

Something to add: i also use some sand paper to remove a small layer from the disc pads. the results are really good. So you can clean your caliper and disc but the pads also retain some gunk. This is maybe why you recomend changing the pads before they run out? Try this methode maybe it will work and save you some money

[@M-DIY]

Radu Teodor Stoian use 400 grit only!!!

[@martinparker6536]

also you can heat them with a blow torch to 'sweat' the crap/oils out of the material.

[@reinermiteibidde1009]

is your caliper cracked?

[@martinparker6536]

mmmmm i noticed that @6:10 , he's pointing right at it !

[@nigglenoo]

Better to clean the pistons before you push them back into the caliper bores, to cure existing sticky piston problem and avoid creating a new sticky piston problem. Also the best stuff for cleaning the rotor IMO is alcohol, either isopropyl or methanol used with a totally clean cloth or paper towel, good de-greasing with no residue left.

[@MasterFeiti]

Most useful brake pad video I have seen so far. Thank you

[@bazahaza]

Watch the ones by park tools much better.

[@heksogen4788]

If they are contaminated with lubricant, but still thick enough, why not clean them with a degreaser solvent? Why replace perfectly good pads?

[@pinkpanter883]

@1:14 this will work with my model? i dont think the shimano "g-type" brake pads will work with the m425...

[@BbsKochMoraes]

Thanks for this video. It's very clarifying!!!

[@daroob]

My only additional tip would be to not rest that little reservoir screw on top of the bars like that where it will no doubt fall off and get lost. Put it in a safe place until closing the reservoir. My 2¢

[@pilzj3263]

The biggest mistake I did to my hydraulic disc brakes was to.... spray WD40 over it while trying to lubricate all moving parts, and that rotor sure looked one huge moving part! Ya, that time I didn't even know what my disc brake was all about, let alone all the group set.

[@cjones7854]

I've only ever heard of organic/resin pads and semi-metallic/metallic pads for bikes. I have ceramic pads for my car but who sells ceramic or kevlar (never heard of that for brakes) for bikes? @SickBiker

[@lazurm]

If the pads became contaminated from, say, lubricant picked up from the road, wouldn't working the pads with a #220 sand paper and alcohol deal with this issue effectively?

[@calvintanner7897]

What if you experience burning in the brake pads ? Can that mess up the calipers for both front and rear rotors ?

[@seven9766]

Frame with integrated derailleur mount... One good crash away from the bin...

[@nicolasbrisebois-tetreault8050]

My pistons are not resetting completely. I tried to do the trick with the bleeding port open. As I unscrew it that spill. Is it normal? I guess there is to much oil in it.

[@jimmihenry]

Yea, was good idea ti take a look at your vid, ife already overseen the print "RESIN ONLY"! On my motorbike i was able to chose organic, or metalic brake pads. This a comlete different story... Tank you! ;)

[@Tubecraft1]

Very good video thank you. I might add that if too much force were used with the screw driver a person could bend the calliper mounts on the frame so just a note to only use a twisting action on the screw driver 😊just like you did good job

[@gaijinman7852]

Great video, thank you

[@vintagerider4301]

Thanks - removing the screw from the lever assembly is a confirmation I was looking for everywhere.

[@PrzemyslawSliwinski]

From hindsight it appears obvious, doesn't it?

[@LostInLeiden]

Excellent video, very helpful, thanks so much

[@shaman2384]

Did he not clean up the NEW braking pads? That is a mistake imo.

[@supersai4198]

I didn't degrease the disc at all, works perfectly with my new brake pads. My bike is 2 years old and first time changing front pads only. Feels brand new!

[@TdZM_]

I change my pads, but i still have very loud noise when i brake!!! what should i do?

[@RDB2020]

Go to Shimano Tech si.shimano.com/en/#/ - Look up your model of brakes and look through the technical break down and Shimano will provide you with what pads will work with them.

[@knut8154]

Thanks for a couple really good tips! One tip I have is if after finishing you now have rub on the pads, before adjusting the caliper mount, do the pad bedding process as this might fix the rub without moving the caliper.

[@paddy1991]

Had a issue with my shimano xt brakes. Couldn't get the pistons back far enough. Wound back all the level adjustment and the free play screw at the top. Got everything back together but when I applied the brakes oil came out from the lever. Luckily it was the pressure relief valve. Readjusted the the components and system operating correctly.

[@ridedirtymtb9938]

Good video my friend👍

[@jorgeh.gonzalez3929]

Amazing video . Very professional and well details about possible mistakes . Thank you 🙏😜👍

[@makantahi3731]

to avoid 2. 3. and 4. mistake, i use mechanical brake calipers,

[@desfourie528]

Thank you, really appreciated

[@soliranje]

hi, my friend is using shimano altus br-m365 brake setup and he is wondering are G01A pads compatible with his brake set?

[@bruce4399]

Great video

[@larrytate1657]

Anyone know what works with Shimano BL MT200? I can’t find them anywhere yet

[@andrewkb5211]

Thank you for such an informative video. I feel much more confident changing my pads now. 🙏👍

[@chrisbalanda9368]

I take the caliper off pads very easy to fit Put caliper on alan key tight Pads be millimeter near the rotater grip

[@cha-ronfaheemtaylor4556]

my disc do not indicate the type of material brake pads should be made of. the only thing on my disc are "160' and an arrow pointing towards a screw.

[@flyingscot3666]

thx for your video - learned how to spread the pistons using the old pads - v successful result - much appreciated

[@macro182]

what if i'm not able to push back pistons even if i've opened the bleeding screw? do you have other suggestion more than open the entire caliper? for example using heat to let the housing of the pistons dilate?