4 of 5: Alcove Unit #097

Hi everyone. In this weeks set of videos I’m making an alcove unit. This is generally a cabinet with a bookcase above it that sits alongside the chimney breast in the Victorian-era houses you typically find in industrialised cities throughout the UK.
They’re not difficult to do and well within the capabilities of most DIYers, though there are a few things that you need to be aware of. This video shows you how I do mine. Enjoy!
This is Part 4 of 5
Part 1 is here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aabXlqmAbZKjY80
Part 2 here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqfam5eOi9yNe9U
Part 3 here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHPYh6yvqKyepNU
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Used/featured in this video:-
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool Domino - amzn.to/2pVSnMk (US: amzn.to/2o7E22Q)
Festool Domino assortment - amzn.to/2piZjHa (US: amzn.to/2pGv1Lx)
Festool Domino 5 x 30mm - amzn.to/2oTq5CZ (US: amzn.to/2oOqyrL)
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool Kapex 120 - amzn.to/2oYOXeq (US: amzn.to/2o7D3zL)
Festool ETS 150/5 - amzn.to/2sapsq9 (US: amzn.to/2ssbZgq)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Fevstool CTL Sys - amzn.to/2sKa2t3 (US: amzn.to/2tCvVdZ)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Blum hinges - amzn.to/2oOiiYG (US: amzn.to/2oOodgt)
Hinge drilling guide - amzn.to/2oYBHqk
Self-centering drill bit - amzn.to/2pVQ6kl (US: amzn.to/2oZ7Fmq)
Hinge boring bit - amzn.to/2pSrlXa (US: amzn.to/2pSHJGV)
Heavy duty groover - goo.gl/Ht1TU4
Arcbor for above - goo.gl/xdE9PU
Maestri electric nailer - amzn.to/2pNm7ye (US: amzn.to/2pGMfuf)
Bradawl - amzn.to/2qWTbln (US: amzn.to/2pZqVRm)
Japanese folding pocket saw - goo.gl/DlcyPw
Spax MDF screws - amzn.to/2pj5FX5 (US: amzn.to/2oOh7Zu)
Tongue-tite screws - amzn.to/2ouKU5I (US: amzn.to/2pGBVk3)
Lost-tite screws - amzn.to/2pGnUFD (US: amzn.to/2pVKqa6)
Ryobi Air Strike stapler - [currently unavailable in UK, link is to a personal import from the US through eBay, which is how I bought mine] goo.gl/aIGo8O (US: amzn.to/2qylU2O)
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2svT03N (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3)
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Cheap sash clamp - amzn.to/2sTl7eq (US:amzn.to/2sVGKtV)
F clamps - amzn.to/2tNCU2K (US:amzn.to/2rQHAZj)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2sTwQJE (US:amzn.to/2sThGo1)
Sumo gripper gloves - amzn.to/2sToXUH (US:amzn.to/2tsOa5z)
ProDec foam rollers 6” - amzn.to/2s1zlFG (US: amzn.to/2tkoSsT)
Photo/video gear
Main camera Panasonic Lumix G80 - amzn.to/2o7uPrx (US - G85: amzn.to/2ouTwJV)
Olympus 12-40 f/2.8 - amzn.to/2sz34Xy (US: amzn.to/2sbYkte)
Second camera Panasonic FZ200 - amzn.to/2pj8p6Z (US: amzn.to/2oYSGJ0)
Rode Videomic Pro - amzn.to/2oTAr5W (US: amzn.to/2oOp54A)

[@tonypowell7529]

Nice job Peter, you’d make a great teacher, well explained procedures, methodical, stress free.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Many thanks! 👍

[@simoping]

Could watch Pete all day long.... great content... and calming voice / energy... nice job!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank you! Old vid! 🙌👍

[@FM-js6cq]

I wish Peter was my dad. I'd learn so much.. I've never done DIY before but now that I'm a new homeowner I will have to learn.. starting from the bottom.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Well, first of all have you done your homework?? And secondly, part of starting the channel was to help our folks like yourself as there seemed to be plenty of videos out there about hand cutting dovetails, and few about putting up shelves and alcove units. There’s an extensive back catalogue, and I’m always happy to help by answering questions where I can. 👍👍

[@casparvanderburgh]

What a lovely series this is. Now eagerly awaiting part 5. Keep it up, you are highly inspirational!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@loadzofhobbies4219]

Brilliant tip for marking the socket position.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! It works so well, and is so easy, too! 👍👍

[@robknight4612]

Awesome video. I have a similar project planned for one (for the time being) of my alcoves. Thanks for the tips and keep up the good work 👍

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! 👍

[@giulioarti4852]

Like that marking out trick for the sockets sir

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Old but good! 👍👍

[@FFVoyager]

Nice work (again!) I really expected to see a Festool multi tool though!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks. Just to prove I'm not a total fanboi - the Makita works fine for what I do 😂👍

[@reidcustomfurniture]

nice work enjoying your vids. just wondering why you didnt use mfc board for the carcus?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

+Robert Reid Clients choice. MFC is used more for bedroom and kitchen work, painted finish very popular here in the living rooms 👍

[@DanegerMau5]

Hi Peter, absolutely loving the videos! When you level up the plinth, do you overcompensate for the floor settling towards the middle of the room when the weight of cabinet + shelves is on?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! No, not typically - unless there’s some kind of obvious issue with the floor, in which case that needs to be resolved before any install tbh! 👍

[@simonaukland4510]

Great video and top work again. I am slowly working my way through your videos and learning a lot alon the way. A question about your plinths, can you tell me generally what timber and thickness you use please.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hi Simon, and thanks! Plinths are usually 4x1 redwood (~95 x 22mm finished size) Works great! 👍

[@simonaukland4510]

Thanks for getting back Peter muchos appreciated - keep up the good work, any exterior joinery ahead?

[@DesandSam]

Looks like it's coming together nicely. Why the wedges for the top?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Yes, not too bad so far, thanks!. I like to wedge the top as the client has small children (prone to climb) and without the wedges, there's nothing securing the carcass in place at the height of the top. The plinth is fixed to the floor, the cabinet fixed to the plinth through the base, the bottom of the bookcase fixed to the cabinet top, and the top of the bookcase fixed to the wall; it just feels a little 'loosey-goosey' around the middle. Whacking in a few wedges takes a couple of minutes, costs virtually nothing, and just makes me feel a bit happier about it. That's all 👍

[@olivermoore3431]

Lovely work here as always. Do you have any suggestions as to how you would fix a plinth capping to a plinth if you were working with MFC or similar material where you would have to hide any fixings? Thanks

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! If it needs to be removable, then some kind of hidden panel fixing e.g. Buttonfix would work. Otherwise I’d just glue it on, probably. 👍

[@olivermoore3431]

Peter Millard thanks peter. Looking forward to more cabinets and other build videos!

[@w0ffe]

Nice work. On an unrelated note, do you know what the big old metal cabinet to the right of the alcove is and/or where it comes from. I've never seen on like this; it seems like an odd item to find in a house.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! I did ask and I believe the answer was that it was something medical, for storage. Don't know any more than that though, sorry! 👍

[@alextenters3868]

Do you have a general rule of thumb for measuring the placement for the base plates of euro hinges? Or do you just line the door up and mark the holes? Your videos are so informative and great!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! The hinge plates are usually equidistant top to bottom, and where exactly depends on the size of the door. I do have a set of ‘standard’ markers, but couldn’t say off the top of my head - would have to measure them when I’m back in the workshop. Will get back to you later on. 👍

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Just measured the little DIY jig/template I use and it looks like I set them 123mm to the hinge plate centre, from the top/bottom of the carcass. I've noi idea why it's 123mm, but that's what I've been using for years, so it seems to work for the kind of doors I make! HTH P

[@jmwhittaker]

Great videos thanks Peter, I'm currently starting making my own custom alcove units and these have been very helpful in sending me hopefully on the right path! Can I just ask when you measure up the available space how much do you usually reduce it by to make the cabinets & plinth? Also most alcove cupboard units I see have a recessed skirting / plinth board. I'm looking to bring this forward to be level with the doors for a more built in look. I guess just packing out the plinth on the front and / or making a deeper skirting board would do the trick?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! If you're going to extend the skirting so it wraps around the cabinet (and I agree, it's a good look and makes the finished result seem much more 'fitted' visually) then plan on removing the skirts in the alcove and making the cabinet 20 - 30mm narrower than the alcove overall - though check this with a known, square template to be sure it's enough! I then use an 18mm end panel to enclose the outside edges of the doors, so they look inset, and you can then extend the end panel back to the chimney breast and scribe it in neatly. I did that on this job - goo.gl/Y4QExV - and it worked well. HTH P

[@jmwhittaker]

Solid advice that, thanks again Peter.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

+James Whittaker 👍

[@StuartBanks200]

Great video. Where do you get your corex template sheets?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! I buy cited from my local timber yard, but any decorators merchant should sell it. 👍👍

[@mfcosi]

Have I just seen you using a Makita track in a Festool saw?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Sure, works great. I bought a 3 metre Makita track back when they were way cheaper than the Festool, and cut it down to make a 2100/900 for trimming doors. Only thing to watch out for is the anti-tipping lip Makita has gets in the way of some of the accessories e.g. parallel guides, otherwise it works fine. 👍

[@olleepalmer]

Does a fitted wardrobe install follow this same sort of approach in terms of fixing? e.g. Build a base plinth and secure to that? Or do you also secure a wardrobe to the wall?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Always secure to the wall. See the ‘Wardrobes, Panel door & Top box’ series, starts video #037 👍👍

[@olleepalmer]

@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter!

[@matthewwhitley]

Hi Peter, do you find that the D profile ever looks like it's coming away from the rest of the top?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hey Matthew. No, never. Get it glued on with plenty of time to cure and it’s solid. 👍

[@Samwise457]

What width do you make your styles and rails on your doors? Do you always do the same size or does it vary depending on what size doors they are?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

It varies a little, but I typically use 80mm as the starting point. Don’t think I’ve gone thinner than 60mm, and maybe up to 150mm for the base rail on a tall door. But 80mm is the usual starting point. 👍👍

[@Samwise457]

Peter Millard we are not that far apart then i use 75mm 👍🏻

[@SBTDesigndotcodotuk]

Peter, I have a question regarding the electrics if that's ok? I've always been led to believe that there should not be any combustible material inside the socket area (in this case the MDF cabinet back). I always fit a new recessed pattress box in this situation. This looks a much faster/easier solution.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hi Steve. The question's come up a couple of times since I've been doing these vids. and each time I've asked my sparky (full scope qualy, not just Domestic Installer) if it's OK, and each time he's said yes. I'll check with him again - I'll confess I hadn't thought of the potential combustion aspect - would be a bit of a downerif it's not compliant... :/

[@ricos1497]

At least there's no evidence online

[@robmcdonald1185]

I've been considering an electric headless pinner for a while but am unsure which one to get. What model are you using in the video and how do you find it?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

It’s a Spotnails SE30-08 mains electric 21g veneer pinner. It’s OK, but tbh I’d look at a 23g headless if I was buying again. I think Makita and Hitachi/Hikoki both do a 23g cordless now. But I like electric overall, much more than gas or compressor, especially for installs. 👍👍

[@robmcdonald1185]

Thanks, i'll check them out.

[@davidhaydon4720]

Hi Peter, another quick question please. At around 1:40 into the vid you use a small planer to shave down the 6mm mdf. Can I ask which one it is? Cheers

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hi David. It’s a basic little Stanley block plane - amzn.to/2Ouf6vM (US: amzn.to/2MF2yQi) 👍👍

[@davidhaydon4720]

@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you

[@MrPhilsson]

Hi Peter, A bit late to the party here but a big fan of the video (I've hit subscribe). Was just wondering what thickness MDF you used on this unit? Thanks!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hiya & welcome! I used 18mm for the carcass & bookcase sides, and 22mm lipped for the shelves. All MR MDF. 👍👍

[@MrPhilsson]

@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for the quick reply. About to check out your workshop tour, I maybe becoming obsessed with your hinged rail for the plunge! haha

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Haha. Thanks! Re. the hinges rail, it’s an off-the-shelf Festool MFT - see vids #182 & 183 for more detail. 👍

[@TC-yn9nk]

What hinges are you using there Peter?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

+Tom Coulthard They're regular Blum clip-ins with built-in soft close. If there isn't a link in the vid description, it'll be in the 'stuff I use' section at 10minuteworkshop.com. 👍

[@hitchjack]

Peter, I'm part way through a project following your trusty methods, something I'm wondering, the white panels you fit to your plinth, are they just 6mm MDF painted by yourself or is there a product that can be bought to cover the 4x1 redwood specifically for that purpose? Thanks!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

+Jack Morris It’s just painted 6mm MDF - nothing special at all 👍

[@hitchjack]

Peter Millard thanks Peter! One more thing if I may pick your brains 😬 - I ordered the Blum soft close hinges (and hinge jig) from your link under one of your videos, but what size holes do I drill for the hinge plate screws? (The ones where the fat screws are provided, not the cup which I know to be 35mm). Thanks!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

+Jack Morris Sorry, just seem your reply. I usually drill a 3mm hole for the hinge plate screws, but any pilot hole should do 👍

[@hitchjack]

Peter Millard thanks for your reply as always 👍 , I fitted the plates today actually and did some trials on a piece of scrap MDF First to avoid wrecking my unit! 3 and 4mm came up too small for the fat screws provided with the Blum hinges, had to go with a 5mm! Have worked out beautifully with the jig though :-)

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Jack Morris Ah, ok, sorry, didn’t realise you were working with the stubby screws that come pre-installed with the regular cruciform hinge plates. Yes, they’re 5mm euro screws, designed to fit the ’32mm system’ where the doors align with the shelf-pin holes. I usually use 4x16mm screws, so 3mm pilot hole works well. 👍

[@jamesyardley7353]

Just out of interest, what is the height of plinth used typically?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

100mm typically. 👍

[@michaelburton9638]

I won't tell the festool people you've been using a Makita track with a ts55 shhhhh

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

😂 Been using it for years - way cheaper than the Festool 3-metre track back then. Not so much now, but still savings to be had 👍👍

[@michaelburton9638]

@@10MinuteWorkshopes I bought a festool 3 m track - but I aint got a 3 metre van so now its a 2.6 M track

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

My Makita’s a 2.1 / 0.9. Works well for doors 👍👍

[@chrisearnshaw7865]

Where is the headless Pinner from?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Spotnails. It’s 21g so not completely headless. 👍👍