4 Tips To Keep Your Engine From Overheating.

[@brucelee64485]

One of the biggest things that I can say to all drivers is to take the time once a year and have the aftercooler removed from the radiator, and wash out all three pieces of the cooling package. In the winter months your truck picks up all kinds of mud and debris from the roadway and sucks it into the cooling package. At my Cat house I remove the condenser and the aftercooler, idle the truck over to the wash ramp and wash out all three, then put them back together. It's amazing just how much junk can get through the condenser and aftercooler, then collect in the radiator. I have found many a overheating problem because the front of the cooling package looks good, but get down to the radiator you will find the mud and road debris caked across the radiator under the aftercooler. Just washing through the front of the cooling package will not always push the water through and get the junk out of the radiator.Also, if you are running a rear engine type RV, especially with the Freightliner chassis, the fan is a direct drive unit that pushes air from the engine compartment to the rear of the unit. They will pick up all kinds of road grime especially in the winter months, and will pack the aftercooler and radiator with it, yet when you look at it from the rear of the unit, the radiator is clean. I have also had good luck with replacing the eight blade fans on most trucks with a nine bladed engine fan to get more air over the cooling package.

[@georgeof78]

Yeah. It's amazing how much crap gets in all three of those. But not surprised. Those truck engine fans can really suck. I've picked bugs of the grill and tried to drop them and if the engine fan on it'll suck it back. Lol!

[@rickl6697]

Our Newmar Dutch Star is on a Freightliner chassis and it has a side radiator and hydraulically driven fan. They are not all rear radiators with direct drive fans. They do collect dirt like crazy not to mention getting to the engine to work on it or check belts and hoses is way harder.

[@rolandtamaccio3285]

Plus the a.c. puts quite a bit of heat in front of the radiator via the condenser . Also on a known pull I put the fan on early with the manual switch, actually as much as thirty degrees early .

[@landerson1012]

I've had to turn on the heater to help cool engine temp. Didn't help much but it kept me going. Great tips!

[@guyconnell2250]

I am familiar with Big Cam Cummins, two stroke Detroits, and 3406s (precup and DI both A and B). The max engine speed was around 2100 give or take. I would pick a lower gear, turn the fan on manual, turn off the AC, and run part throttle up the hill at around 2000 RPM. Always worked for me.

[@СтепанБандера-ы8у]

Guy Connell yep, and your turbo runs cooler, and it’s overall better for your engine longevity. Higher rpms under full load means you running more hp not torque which takes less fuel in heavy duty diesels. And for new emissions trucks it’s very important to run them higher under full load going up hill because your exhaust flow is batter so your soot doesn’t trap so much in your dpfs.

[@thetowndrunk988]

Agreed. Something I think is absolutely insane nowadays is how most trucks don’t come with fan override switches. There are reasons us old fogeys could milk a million plus miles outta those old motors, and a fan override was a big part of it.

[@bendeleted9155]

Also never throw mass amounts of water into your system if low and hot. Maybe first spray light mist through the radiator while It's running until the temp comes down before adding much water. Cracks and warpage can happen.

[@abdallasakor894]

Thank you so much for this video I wish you all success all love from Syria

[@kimwood7411]

Great advice. I’ve got a KCB C13 Ive replaced the head on twice. Drop your speed roll down the windows and Turn the cab and bunk heaters on high . It can save you a lot in repair bills. Especially if you own a C13.... they do not like heat .

[@jxaxrxlx]

Great video with some really helpful tips! Another good way to cool down a truck engine is to lock your fan hub in ( if lockable) . It has down sides ( excess fuel consumption, loss of power , noise etc.. but it will definitely cool that engine down and get you home!

[@larrytalley117]

Another great video from the master of Diesel information. Thank you Josh. I have a 40 ft motorhome, Cat 330 way back in the rear, with rear radiator opening. Allison auto trans, and I have found that on hot days, climbing a hill, I select lower gear in the Allison...keep going down until I can accelerate up the hill....then reduce power to about 2100 rpms. This keep the engine mounted fan spinning enough to keep pushing air through the radiator...and it reduces power. The down side is it reduces the speed down to about 20 mph...but that's better than overheating.

[@kushcdlinstructor4776]

I'm driving for 15 years and what I noticed coolant filter don't get changed often and that makes a significant difference. Also clean up / blowing up dirt and bugs from radiator once a year it makes a huge difference.

[@danokerr9929]

So true. We change our coolant filters every year. The enzymes in the coolant filter helps with rust and keeps the coolant cool

[@Hitekkleotruckings]

love this channel by time a own mi truck am fully educated about trucks

[@brunolamote]

For farmers it helps to keep driving against the wind in the field (unfortunately you have tor drive back without work being done)

[@Mikheno]

All good tips. I've pulled over many times on super hot days (Vegas, Yuma, Death Valley, etc) just to give myself and the engine a break from pulling a tough load. On my Dodge Ram w/six speed manual tranny I'll also drop it out of overdrive and into 5th gear (direct drive), get the RPM's down to 1500 or so until we crest the hill. Way easier on the engine and temps.

[@Acducec]

If you put the heat on put Defrost on as if you open the windows it will bypass you somewhat also i pop the hood and leave the emerg latch to hold the hood this gives you a couple inches where heat can escape and air can enter if conventional hood ..but prob wontbwork on most trucks. my RV was a 454 i had a big rad up front i would remove the two door hoods up front on a hot day made a big differeance in air flow Good video

[@daryllneuburger4946]

Awesome thank you so much I always shut the engine down never knew to let it run at higher idle thanks again for the info

[@daveperala4965]

I didn't know after you overheat to keep it running rather than shutting it off! Its nice to know that for when I go through the WV mountains north of Charleston.

[@chrisleggett685]

A couple of things you did not mention. Make sure that the radiator AND oil levels are ok. Replace the radiator cap. They do go bad. If it will not hold pressure the coolant will boil at a lower temp. Also hose out the condenser,CAC and Radiator often.

[@jimphelps100]

Good video, however what is the over heating point on my CAT C15 MBN motor? On a hot day pulling a heavy load with everything you just said to do it can creep up to 224.

[@averyalexander2303]

Not sure if there's a spec for max acceptable coolant temp but 224 degrees while pulling a heavy load uphill on a hot day seems alright to me, that's still way under the boiling point of the coolant. Personally I'm fine with up to 230 or so under load, but there isn't much risk of damage until 240+ degrees. What you really want to avoid is boiling the coolant. When the coolant boils it no longer flows properly and the cooling system basically becomes completely ineffective. That's what would cause damage.

[@thetowndrunk988]

That’s hot for Cat IMO. I don’t like em over 210, at least on a 3406

[@obk2345]

do you have a manual switch fan? if yes probably you should lower the gear too. I have a C13 kcb and let me tell you this engines overheat really quickly. plus I run in arizona 115F I. summer. what you should do on what ADPE said is to clean your radiator intercooler and condenser every season. I've never overheated my engine once.

[@truckinman86]

If when you turn on you heater to try to alleviate some of the heat from the radiator and you notice that the air coming out of the heater is not hot, pull over when safe. There isn’t enough coolant in the system. Either most of the coolant escaped, or there is a big bubble in the system.

[@averyalexander2303]

Great tip! My general rule of thumb is if the heater is hot, there is no steam or coolant smell, the temp gauge isn't in or right below the red zone, and the reason for the high temp is known such as a long climb on a very hot day, it's safe to keep driving for a while as that means there is flow through the system and the coolant isn't critically hot. However, if the heater isn't working as well as it should be, you need to pull over as soon as safely possible as that means the coolant is dangerously low or there is no flow through the system due to an air bubble, failed water pump, broken belt, etc.

[@jordankinsey811]

Hey Josh, I’ve always been curious on the grille covers guys run in the winter. Maybe do a winter cooling system tips this year. Curious why some use them and others don’t. And if they really allow the truck to heat up faster.

[@KingBigBabyJesus]

Thermostat probally just stuck open

[@tb3687]

Not 100%, but I think the blankets on the front is more to help keep heat in instead of all the cold air and windchill keeping the engine below a warm enough operating temperature.

[@edreeder9853]

A piece of 2×4 under both rear corners of the hood, holds the hood up , lets the air flow easier. It works....

[@bernellbegay8295]

Very very very important tips buddy well done✌

[@anteatert600]

Engage the Horton fan at the bottom of the climb, turn off the a/c, maintain 1700 rpm and progressively shift down until the top. If you know what gear it usually needs to crest the hill, select that one earlier. Likewise , when descending long steep grades, Engine fan on at the top is worth ½ a gear in retardation, your use of the Jake brakes cause similar heating of the engine.

[@kennethbullins445]

Recently my muffler spout was knocked off. The muffler exhausts gases had good flow out the rear of the Motorhome. I drove the Motorhome home 240 miles all interstate highway. The engine temperature was normal 205 F. When I arrived home, I didn't stop the engine. I opened the gate to the Motorhome shelter and proceeded to back the Motorhome in. It took a bit longer than normal due to parked cars in the street. As I was rolling back the last few feet the engine temperature had risen to 216 F. Once the Motorhome was under shelter I opened the engine hood. Quickly the engine temperature dropped to 196 F. I need to drive the Motorhome about 30 miles to Customs Coach builder for repairs. But before this trip, I'm installing a temporary muffler tip.

[@LUTYTV]

Just found your channel with a lot of helpful information. Thanks. I have an 05 C7 Freightliner motorhome with 120k miles. I pull a heavy trailer. It seems I constantly fight overheating and it seems to be getting worse. I wash out the CAC and radiator once a year the best I can. I try not to let it get over 220 degrees. Is 220 dangerous? What’s your opinion on Evans coolant? Thanks

[@UncannySense]

if you carry water in an emergency overheat situation you can drench the radiator to act as an evaporative cooler.

[@fastinradfordable]

I helped someone in the side of the road and they refused my emergency water, claiming that if cold water is near an overheating engine the block will crack. I said “you sure you don’t need any help?” And I just backed away...

[@Senkino5o]

@@fastinradfordable Well that's sort of half true, but #1 you're dousing the radiator not the block and #2 if the block were to have tempering cracking due to water its already been destroyed by the heat, so sling 'er off and let her crack and sink, she's a boat anchor.

[@josephkryszczak]

can you do a video on the advantages or disadvantages of switching to a single turbo on a ACERT setup. Also, could you do a video on EGTs and debate if pre or post turbo temp sensor is better

[@joshmadison5410]

Thanks for the tips.

[@bigryanm7083]

can u give me tips on how to start a car on extreme cold winter like here in canada?? thnx..

[@PopsHowTo]

Would it be beneficial if you were able to maintain the same speed but down shift a gear to get rpms up (within a safe range)? My thoughts are, Due to having more cycles of the combustion system eg. More cool air and fuel cooling the engine in the combustion cycles as well as what you were saying in regards to the water/oil pump and fan moving more volume. Is this a correct way to think or is it negated by the fact that the engine is still doing the same speed but with more cycles of the engine producing more heat? I have experienced this myself but have wondered if it is do to something else going on unrelated. Thanks. Very much enjoy the channel.

[@ezekielmunatsi5496]

Very informative.

[@richardmatos3067]

Adept Ape thank you for you video I have a question that doesn’t have to do with this video What is the software you used to do the Dyno? I like the way is setup

[@AdeptApe]

The Dyno is a Taylor Dyno and that is their software.

[@birdeizzle]

Very good tips 👍🏾

[@johnrtrucker]

I have a manual engine fan switch on my dash so i flip it on about a mile before a steep grade and fortunately my gearing ratios in the transmission makes not enough power in say 8th but too much power in 7th so i pick 7th and hover around 1400rpm even the hardest climbs under a full load i dont go too far over 220° (cummins) and for 40 miles of a very slight climb i leave the fan on along with city traffic or stop lights and i always keep fresh fluid in the engine i get all fluids and filters changed at 20,000 miles or if alot in the west coast or alot of heavy loads 15,000 miles no issues at all with overheating

[@mikeleo7189]

I blow my Rad and condenser out a couple times a year with a big air chuck after its been dry for a awhile weather wise, then wash it out with water hose nozzle. Makes me feel better anyway.

[@qbeck11]

I remember when I was working on a 5.9 that kept overheating. Eventually found out someone previously took the thermostat out so the coolant wasn't staying in the radiator long enough to cool it down.

[@zachsteele6964]

I can't believe someone would do that

[@waynep343]

Having too low a temp thermostat can do the same thing. Gets above the opening temp of the thermostat and gets hotter and hotter

[@geesss8675]

"The engine is producing more heat energy than the cooling system can reduce"

[@nevilzamorapages9189]

You are right thanks i like your video thanks

[@truckdriver3126]

I had the water pump on a Cat 3126 seize up on the highway, a Christmas tree of warning lights alerted me and the engine was saved. A rebuilt pump was $900. That's my overheating story.

[@johngoldsmith6629]

I would keep a check on my fan blades, belt and shroud. Don't let someone steam clean the A/C core from the side and fold the fins down. Keep the radiator, cac and A/C core clean. If you have a electronic engine program it to derate at least. Have a good driver behind the wheel.

[@garysmith5796]

If I add another 5gals of antifreeze will that help any? I'm producing more than 550hp btw.

[@averyalexander2303]

No it will not, it will make it worse. Water cools much better than antifreeze does, so for the best cooling you want to use the minimum amount of coolant possible. Compared to water, coolant is less effective at absorbing and releasing heat. It is also thicker, so it is harder to pump through the system. There are additives you can add to the coolant to help it transfer heat better like Royal Purple's Purple Ice. It's not magic in a bottle, but it has been proven to help a bit. However, if you choose to use an additive, make sure to do your research to make sure it is compatible with your coolant since adding an incompatible additive can cause corrosion or other problems.

[@garysmith5796]

@@averyalexander2303 thanks for the reply. I use straight cat antifreeze.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@garysmith5796 If you use straight coolant you should be diluting it by about 50% unless you live somewhere that gets ridiculously cold. A 50/50 mix is what nearly all manufacturers recommend and is good down to -34 degrees F. If you don't need that much freeze protection you could use a bit less coolant such as 40% coolant and 60% water for better cooling.

[@averyalexander2303]

@JGD As coolant? That would be a horrible idea! Ethanol boils at only 173 degrees, attacks plastic and rubber, and is highly flammable.

[@cryptoanalysts5793]

Do you recommend to switch from twins turbo to single in acert c15 cat engine ????

[@stevenrice5049]

2005 Acert C15 million miles on it , engine stays under 150 in cool weather, but rises with outside temp increase. Do you recommend coolant flush or new radiator?

[@johngoldsmith6629]

I would put ET on it and data log coolant temp from cold to fan on temp. Then I would turn the fan on manual and see how far coolant temp drops. First gut call your regulator is stuck open. I have a status screen just for fan, cooling system testing.

[@hthouston3924]

Can you explain why my oil temperature play between 210 to 230 used to be it stays at 210, is out side temperature effects I'm in Texas and it's hot here

[@leetelford9768]

I have a cat 3126 school bus my temperature is good running down the road but starts to get hotter when parked. But temperatures go back down when you take off

[@brucelee64485]

Check your fan clutch Lee. If the fan clutch does not rev up when it needs to at idle the engine will run hotter since there is no cooling air getting pulled through the radiator. If it's the typical fan clutch that is hydraulic, then the fan should be pretty stiff when you attempt to turn it before you start the engine, but after the engine has been running for a while shut the engine off and check again, the fan should spin pretty easily. If it does not, change the fan clutch.

[@leetelford9768]

Thank you I’ll check that and see if that’s the problem. I also removed the rear heat er so it may have air in it

[@brucelee64485]

Something else that I thought of too... 3126 engines have a belt driven water pump that has it's own drive belt. Check the belt tension as it might be slipping. The water pump belt can be seen by sliding under the front of the bus and look up behind the crank pulley. It hides out under the alternator and under the a/c compressor on most trucks so It often gets overlooked and is often not known, but that little belt will stretch out over time and cause belt slippage and therefore the water pump to slow down. There is an idler pulley that you loosen up two bolts with a 13mm wrench and a square 1/2 inch hole in the pulley bracket to adjust the tension. Hope this helps too!

[@FlatPlaneCranky]

My engine coolant temp stays around 190 grossing 129,000 but my oil temp is going almost to 250. My oil analysis is saying that my oil is getting oxidation coming out to equivalent of 50 viscosity only after 150 hours due to excessively heated oil temps or extended drain intervals. There are no other notable contaminates in the sample. Can an oil cooler malfunction and not leak?

[@averyalexander2303]

I suppose the oil cooler could be plugged up or dirty and not allowing good flow or heat transfer between the oil and coolant.

[@brucelee64485]

Will Jeff, you might check at your local CAT dealer and see if you can change out the oil cooler out for a BrakeSaver oil cooler. You would have to mount the oil filter base out to the outside of the frame rail with a remote mount set up, but if you routinely haul heavy like that the brakesaver cooler is about twice as large as the standard cooler as it runs from the water pump all the way back to the rear of the engine. Depending on the chassis you may have to reposition the exhaust pipe work as well. It would be expensive, but the larger cooler would help out a bunch, especially if you are running heavy haul and a high horsepower tune. High horsepower tunes runs the pistons hotter and that coupled with the heavy haul applications is probably why your oil temps are high since the oil jets are what keeps the piston heads cooled off.

[@FlatPlaneCranky]

Matt Lee thank you for this. Yes I have a PDI 630 HP tune with a PDI stage 1 turbo 1.45 AR. EGT we hold EGT at under 850 and boost at 28 PSI pulling grades. Max turbo boost is 40 psi. I’ve got plenty of room in the 389 long hood for a larger brake saver cooler. Thank you!!!:)

[@brucelee64485]

@@FlatPlaneCranky Another thought for you. In the oil filter base there are two bypass valves. One for the filter bypass and one for the oil cooler. Check and make sure that they are not bound up. It could be possible that if the cooler bypass is stuck open then the oil may not be getting pushed up into the cooler. Since your driving your engine like you own it instead of like you stole it and 630 HP isn't a really hot tune the bypass might be all that is wrong and easily fixed.

[@FlatPlaneCranky]

Matt Lee I didn’t even consider that....You’re awesome!

[@MrProject350]

I would like to see this on a non Big Tech platform. Please.

[@jameskrivitsky9715]

Thanks Josh, this is from before your time, but I remember when travelers would hang burlap covered water jugs on their grille. Don't know if it helped cool or just be there if the vehicle blew a cap. J K

[@fastinradfordable]

If you poked a tiny drip- hole it could really help with eviporatorative cooling. But I can’t imagine it would last more than 20-30 miles

[@mynameismud4568]

Cheers thanks for the info keep it coming😎

[@Mtts28]

I’ve always thought it strange how these new motors with automated transmissions lug so low before shifting. My Cascadia will drop clear down to 980 or so before shifting when going up a mountain. According to Detroit, that’s where peak torque starts though. Just seems tough on the cooling system.

[@jaydunbar7538]

It is tough on the cooling system, but they are designed for it. Its cheaper to put in a better radiator from the factory to help pick up a little extra mpg then it is to sneak it out somehow else.

[@ndg9367]

My truck tries to shut off when it is overheating. My truck also says engine protection before it shutting down. The temperature outside was 80 degrees going up a mountain and the truck was empty. I wonder what is wrong?

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

I have killed the A/C and ran the cab heater more then a few times in the summer. Miserable , but keeps the forward positive momentum going.

[@jaredmayer3960]

If you’re pulling a hill keep dropping gears and keep it on the pin. It will be fine. If the A/C is making or breaking your engines temp limit you’re going too hard. The A/C uses less than 2 horsepower. Literally no difference power wise. The heater won’t do FA. Keep your coolant in good condition and use more water to transfer more heat. 60/40 water to coolant if you’re in Arizona and 60/40 coolant to water if you’re in Alaska.

[@Lepermessiah2386]

How about a toolbox tour?

[@AdeptApe]

I have one of those, but it is from a couple years ago.

[@juandominguez5094]

Yeah that would be a good video

[@dragan3290]

I have had to pull over and drench the radiator in water. I have an alloy one on my Toyota. Once you pop the hood with heater going flat out and thermos.it does drop.

[@sergeyreva1764]

Is it possible to put a switch on Viscous Fan clutch or it is easier to switch it to air clutch fan?

[@AdeptApe]

You could put a switch on anything, a viscous fan, a hot dog, a piece of wood, just won't do anything 😁 You would have to switch it to an electric or air clutch.

[@AdeptApe]

Hey, thanks Sergey, I see you're a generous person.

[@DLSWV]

👍😉. Good guides.

[@anthonyarroyo2672]

You should do one on the transmission

[@CHarris73]

How long does it take to cool a c2013 cascadia engine down

[@thetowndrunk988]

I’ll add- more than just slow down- keep your foot light on the fuel. When you’re pulling a heavy load, you’re already going slow up a big hill. But time and again I see the 34 mph truck have to show the 33 mph truck who his daddy is, and end up on the side with steam blowing everywhere….. When you push that throttle to the floor, you’re generating an insane amount of heat. Find a gear that “just” allows you to maintain speed with about 1/2-3/4 throttle. Don’t play Billy Big Rigger, showing off your 600, if you want your engine to actually last awhile. Just my .02

[@mzee5533]

Wassup Josh its been longtime mate? Hope you’re enjoying your summer mate?

[@AdeptApe]

This Summer has been ummmm, interesting. Hope you're doing well.

[@jolelstewart1756]

hy Josh thanks fr the video tips u always gives the best advice dear is like that.an down in Jamaica country loods of up hill claiming so the hole idya is to go easy,rite save ur engine...ann if u got time to reply an looking fr a truck cat engine of course please hook me up 👍thanks mate.

[@James-ol6rw]

What is overheat on 2017 dd15 detroit? Is 224 too hot?

[@mem3656]

i carry liquid nitrogen with me and just dump it on the engine before i pull a hill. works great so far, always crack the block so i always get a new motor that stays nice and clean and efficient.

[@AdeptApe]

The T-1000 method.

[@jpjenkins86]

@@AdeptApe Say, that's a nice truck

[@dillongriggs4564]

So I swapped a 6nz it had a Cummins isx cm870 in it before any ideas on witch wires I have to change on the main harness. It cranks but no start.

[@danokerr9929]

You have any crank signal from ecm? Check relay

[@dillongriggs4564]

Dano Kerr thanks will check that.

[@danokerr9929]

@@dillongriggs4564 check the crank signal with insight. Should be under input output functions. Sometimes if one input isn't met the crank output wouldnt go

[@dillongriggs4564]

Dano Kerr thank you will check that.

[@adco]

Thx Josh

[@deant876]

I got that call the other day. The driver said all of the lights came on and it died. I got to him 30 min later and I still couldn't touch the upper rad hose for mor than a second. The truck would not restart (wouldn't crank over). Had it towed back to my shop. I got it to start the next morning, but my fears were coming true, Lower end knocking. I pulled the pan and wanted to cry. Not just a ton of glitter in the pan, but chunks. Turns out he spun 4 out of 6 crank and 2 rod bearings. The caps got so hot they turned blue. It was a 15L Cummins with only 190,000 mile. But he was 155,000 lbs gross on a 90° day.

[@obk2345]

hope you fired that driver. negligence from his part.

[@deant876]

Sadly no they didn't, he still works for us.

[@royblackburn1163]

If it starts to boil stop straight away its physically impossible to pump boiling water open the hood then go for a coffee.

[@timblack33]

Reading these comments It blows my mind these RV’s are built in such a way they have insufficient cooling capacity. I have a Kenworth T800W with a C16 running some marine parts and I flip the fan on manual before a grade in direct gear and never even seen a coolant temp reading that made me uncomfortable. Pyrometer (pre turbo) on the other hand is another story

[@wcvp]

1:57 that’s redline on my old 2 stroke Detroit right?

[@walterwhite-db4ro]

Hey where located need my 3116 rebuild right

[@Otemaonen]

I once saved my diesel from overheating at the top of a long grade by turning the cab heater and the fans to the max!!! Had to pull over first though. It was really close!!!

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

I have run the heater in August while in the mountains. Not fun.

[@nickd.4512]

I run a volvo d13, unfortunately, and I climb a hill on rt 15 heading north from williamsport pa going towards corning ny. Doesnt matter what time of year it is. If im loaded i have to stop at the top of the hill, run all the way up to pinned at 250+. Mid august, stop at the top and kick her into fast idle. 3 degrees out in February, same thing, pull over on the ramp and kick it into fast idle. Been like this since new and its at 501000 now. Nobody can seem to figure it out. I just deal with it anymore. And this truck is sssslllloooowwww, only set at 405 🐎. If it looks at a hill just drop 2 gears automatically, dam 10 speed, 😂😂😂 I really hate this truck

[@obk2345]

dude I have a c13 10 speed trans. when I get to a hill I have to be on 6th gear 😂😂 385hp damn to slow. the only good thing I've never overheated my engine

[@nickd.4512]

@@obk2345 mines set at 430 hp and runs hot when its 10 below out in my kenworth, which is also a c13 parked the volvo about a year ago. Wasnt reliable anymore

[@Boxerexp]

lol I got a MBN in a Columbia..

[@jimphelps100]

Does yours creep up in the 220’s?

[@cryptoanalysts5793]

Trucker Jim! Mine yes , it’s scare me 😳 but I don’t know 🤷‍♂️ it’s always around 190 , some time ... I wanna add a van switch cause I feel my fans doesn’t kick all the time .... it kick when I start the truck but it take a min to kick when it get too hot

[@Boxerexp]

@@jimphelps100 yup.. fan comes on 223...

[@deeplouisiana]

Doesn't the fan keep spinning on modern vehicles even after the engine is shut down to cool off the engine?

[@Mikheno]

On my Prius it might. My '02 Dodge Ram w/Cummins engine however the fan stops when the engine stops.

[@AdeptApe]

On most front wheel drive vehicles this can be the case because they generally run electric fans, but that varies by manufacturer.

[@averyalexander2303]

On some vehicles with electric radiator fans, yes. However, the fan will not cool the engine effectively while it is off because there won't be any coolant flow through the system, so you are better off letting it idle to cool down. Blowing air over the engine block doesn't help much

[@markm0000]

The problem is when the engine is off so is the water pump. So the fan is useless cooling down a blocked radiator.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@markm0000 It is not totally useless since it does push some hot air out of the engine compartment to help prevent wiring and plastic parts from degrading over time due to heat, but it does very little to help cool the engine off unless it has an electric water pump that continues to run as well.

[@ShainAndrews]

Having not watched the video I bet the best solution is to remove the thermostat.

[@averyalexander2303]

Removing the thermostat won't prevent the engine from overheating. If the engine is hot the thermostat should be wide open and not blocking flow anyways. The thermostat just sets a minimum coolant temp, not a maximum temp. The maximum temp the coolant will reach under given load conditions is determined by the cooling system's heat rejection capacity, not the thermostat.

[@AdeptApe]

Shain, I'm sensing some sarcasm from you here.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@Leemur2335 You are correct, starting the climb with a cooler engine may buy you an extra few seconds. However, running the engine cold constantly has negative side effects such as much lower MPG, much shorter oil life, more wear, etc, so I would not recommend removing the thermostat to try to cure an overheating issue.

[@ShainAndrews]

@@AdeptApe LOL. I think you are onto something.

[@7thfloorisnomoreq790]

Ah get a detroit 60 12.7 turn that sucka 2200rpm and always in the red. Hammer down

[@charlieboy501]

If you slow down then you won't get the cool air coming in threw the raidiator

[@rorywynhoff1549]

Start video Click Like (I'm already subscribed and I know I'll like it) Enjoy and learn

[@irishsavage8715]

If you’re engine is overheating, shut it off and pour cold water all over it for an extended period of time.

[@133dave133]

Automatic transmissions in cars and RV's makes this annoying. I never liked the idea that the transmission oil shares the radiator with the engine coolant. I suppose automatics in heavy trucks also add much unwanted heat into the cooling systems as well?

[@averyalexander2303]

If the coolant runs through the radiator it will add some heat, not sure if they do that in heavy duty trucks like they do in passenger cars. I doubt that the amount of heat added by the transmission would be significant compared to the amount of heat added by the engine though, it would likely have a negligible effect on the coolant temp under most conditions. The bigger problem with cooling the transmission with the coolant is that you will never be able to get the trans fluid cooler than the coolant is. Under non strenuous conditions where the coolant temp is perhaps 200 degrees and the transmission isn't loaded heavily this is not a problem. However, under a heavy load such as towing up a steep grade on a 100 degree day, the coolant temp could easily reach 240+ degrees, so you will likely end up with an overheated transmission as well as an overheated engine. However, adding an external cooler in front of the radiator isn't an ideal solution either because you are dumping that heat in front of the radiator and blocking airflow to that part of the radiator. The ideal solution would be to have a separate cooler for the transmission oil mounted somewhere with good airflow that's not in front of the radiator with its own fan to cool it off when idling or driving at low speeds. This way the transmission's cooling isn't depending on the engine's cooling system and its heat is being discarded away from the radiator instead of dumped into or in front of it.

[@133dave133]

I agree. If I were an engineer, I'd have a stand alone exchanger for the transmission with an electric backup fan and ducting. With that being said, an automatic trans does run hot, especially when the converter is nearing stall. I don't agree that this does not add significant heat issues within the fixed surface area of the radiator though. Transmissions are getting better. Maybe someday engineers will allow the converter to remain locked, and reduce any other slippage within these transmissions under load? Maybe heavy trucks already do this to some extent? If they could get CVT transmissions more reliable, this may be the solution? This may allow for higher RMPs with regulated loading and minimal slippage?

[@averyalexander2303]

@@133dave133 I'm just curious if you have any experience or evidence to support your opinion that the trans cooler adds a significant amount of heat to the radiator since I have wondered about this as well. I know that a lot of more modern heavy duty vehicles will lock the converter under load to reduce heat and improve fuel efficiency. Some transmissions will lock the converter as early as 2nd gear and shift with the converter locked. This typically isn't done in passenger car applications since shifting with a fully locked converter will result in harder shifts, which people don't like for some reason. Some cars will lock up the converter if the transmission overheats though. However, in a heavy duty application such as a semi truck or bus, the benefits of locking the converter early (improved fuel efficiency and reduced heat) far outweigh the disadvantage of more noticeable shifts since functionality and reliability must be prioritized over luxury in heavy duty applications.

[@133dave133]

@@averyalexander2303 I'm not smart, but I do work with heat ex changers at my industrial job. The theoretical question is, how hot is the oil coming out an automatic that's slipping it's guts out vs. the engine's coolant temp at the time. One has to conduct the other's heat at some point, and the radiator is that point. Apparently the system works fairly well, I don't see many hoods up on the road anymore. I have no evidence to support my opinion, I just hold both heat sources guilty, and would love to see them get different homes.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@133dave133 That's fair. I'm no thermodynamic expert, but here's my thought: A general rule of thumb is that the amount of heat the coolant absorbs from the engine is roughly the same as the amount of power it is producing. So if a truck is pulling a heavy load up a steep grade and the engine is producing 300HP, you have roughly 300HP worth of heat getting dumped into the coolant from the engine. How much heat is the transmission producing under those conditions? Not sure, but from what I found on the internet, heavy duty automatic transmissions tend to be around 90% efficient when the converter is locked (and it typically would be when pulling a grade). Let's assume that half of this heat ends up in the coolant and the other half is dissipated by the airflow over the transmission. Remember that the air around the transmission is much cooler than the coolant in the radiator and the transmission's case and pan have a very large surface area. This leaves 15HP worth of heat that will be dumped into the coolant, 5% of the total heat the radiaor must dissipate. Does this help? Definitely not, but its effect on the coolant temp is likely no more than 5 degrees. However, when sitting in traffic, the heat load from the transmission may be significant since the transmission will be generating much more heat stopping and starting constantly and the radiator's heat rejection capacity will be at its lowest since the vehicle will be stopped or moving slowly and relying mostly on the radiator fan, which will be spinning at its slowest if it is belt driven. On Honda's 6th gen Civic with a half size radiator, the automatic version got a double thick radiator compared to the manual transmission, so Honda's engineers must have thought the extra heat from the automatic transmission is significant. So after thinking this through, I do agree that the transmission's heat could be significant under certain conditions such as sitting in traffic or off roading through sand or mud where the torque converter will be generating a lot of heat with little to no natural airflow to dissipate the heat.

[@Montoya1991]

4:52 that is impossible to do now days with those dreaded e-logs working us like slaves/robots.

[@Cuhh346]

1. Don't run a thermostat like me

[@waynep343]

That prevents the coolant from stopping in the radiator so it can be cooled while the coolant in the block and head are losing heat to the cooler coolant. At higher rpms the no thermostat flow thru the radiator can over pressurize the top tank .expanding it till it leaks

[@johnedge2282]

Josh, do you have an email?

[@AdeptApe]

[e-mail]

[@quocbinhduongnt8646]

em thick anh làm thôi anh ơi

[@bighorn9119]

What hottest city do you live in