4" x 6" Horizontal Bandsaw - Fixing the depth of cut issue

I'm investigating the cost of making these plates, hopefully for less than $30 each. Send me an email if you are interested. For my email address, template and instructions follow this link drive.google.c...
A good fix for the depth of cut issue experienced on some saw when blade guides are set in the optimum position.

[@countrycraftsman5110]

I spend most of my shop time improving my tools, shop & shop storage. I used to get frustrated about it. Then i realized thats what i really enjoy doing. Another great video and modification to improve a poor design.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

It is kind of fun but also it's disappointing that with a small amount of effort some of these problems would never exist.

[@BeachsideHank]

The main purpose of having tools is to make other tools. Sounds counter intuitive, but it is true nonetheless.

[@MiniLuv-1984]

It also hones your skills when it comes around to making something that is not a tool.

[@countrycraftsman5110]

@@WinkysWorkshop yes. And that small amount of effort would also improve their image overall.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@BeachsideHank - Absolutely! of course I occasionally make cool stuff too. Ha

[@terryfromsouthcarolina4601]

I have been using my version of this saw for almost 30 years. It's a Little Giant brand back when they were still made in the USA. Mine had seen a serious amount of abuse by the previous owner. I must say the repairs are stellar. The only weak link in the machine is the worm gear drive. If run in the high speed on the pulley, the brass gear itself wears out in spectacular fashion. Relatively inexpensive and available at most industrial supplier of Martin brand gears. Just check to make sure yours hasn't been changed to a different pitch or part number. I just run mine in the slow speed groove as I'm usually cutting steel structure and have no need for higher blade speed. If there is any power tool that I would truly miss would be this little saw. I have run metal cutting band saws that would cut material as wide as this saw is long, costing hundreds of thousands more and made no better cut than this. Buy good blades, set the guides right and yours should cut just fine. The table plate was not needed for my saw. Be safe and have fun Terry from South Carolina

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'm checking my gears tomorrow! Thanks

[@orangetruckman]

I bought one of these band saws a year ago and out of the box it was setup perfect!! I was in shock 😵 I’ve seen and heard from so many that they need adjusting to make’em work. Heck, the original blade was cutting decently even, that is until it broke 😬 I have it set on the slowest cutting speed and let it do its thing. I enjoy your videos sir 👍🏻

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! Yeah, I thought mine was setup right too but because it worked great but then I realized the blade guides were what caused the blade to break. When I set the guides right the depth of cut became an issue.

[@dalemauritz991]

Mine also worked out of the box for two year then I had to cut 4”DOM 1-1/4” wall tube and I did stay and watch it cut for 1 hour,,,saw the lights flickered in the house. When out to check on it and found the motor had burned up be cause the roller guide cam bolts loosened up. Moral of the story if it works out of the box check that all the bolts are tight and don’t use non stop for two hours unattended!!

[@mike94560]

I might actually buy one of these saws now. Thanks for the tips.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Any time!

[@zachary8669]

HF should be paying you sir. Turning a mediocre product to a true 💎 gem and probably one of my favorite tools in my shop

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Wow, thanks!

[@BigMikesGarage]

Love your attention to detail. Nice work sir!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you very much!

[@kyrompstomp]

Old new would be Machinist. Thank you for your down to earth easy vocal Tips and improvements on my used pawn shop purchase. Turn 84 in April Plesant way to pass the rest of my time. GOD is good. Thanks for your time . GOD bless MEL

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, Nice to hear!

[@glennfelpel9785]

You are certainly right it does look original. Very nice job. Isn't interesting how much work goes into what seems like a small upgrade. But the results are well worth the effort. Again, nice work. Thank you for the little tips along the way too.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you very much! Yes... everything is more work than you think it will be.

[@carlwhite8225]

I have the same saw with the same issues, the first video was a game changer. Once i get this plate milled it will be a nice useable saw for short money. Thank You very much for these tips.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Very cool.... I may be selling some plates if you are interested. I want to cover expenses but I'm not looking to make money. I'm just trying to get a quantity discount on water jet. There is a link below the video with contact info and also a template. Send me an email if you are interested for less than $30 buck. I'll know money but if it's over $30 I won't do it.

[@howder1951]

Nice upgrade Winky, probably like most of us this is the workhorse of the shop. Thanks for the video, cheers!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You bet Thanks for watching.

[@bazxl57]

I bought the same band saw twelve months ago from Warco in the UK, i have cut stainless, mild steel, aluminium, no problems at all still on the original blade. All the best Baz

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's great. I think there are several companies using the same castings so some saws have different issues are fewer. Mine does well but when you set the guide right it doesn't cut all the way through the stock.

[@jamesciampi6392]

I recently subscribed to your channel and I LIKE It. I am now looking at all your previous videos.They are great,keep them coming.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you! Will do!

[@joell439]

Awesome result. Clever solution. Also really like the end stop bolt addition to the side. Things like that deserve a tool-less upgrade. Welding a 1-1/2 long 1/4” rod to the bolt head makes a quick t-handle so no wrench will be required when setting up the end stop. All the best....... Joel. 👍👍😎👍👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks 👍 I agree with going tooless. You might also want to watch part one if you haven't already.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday, that’s a great modification and quite simple, certainly be a big improvement, thanks for sharing, cheers Matty

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Matty... yeah it was a good way to address the quality control problem. It seems to be a very good saw now.

[@dannywilsher4165]

You're a good man Mr. Mark Winky!!! Always making cool projects and thinking of helping others. Thanks for sharing!!!!!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks 👍

[@lloyd4768]

Great video!! I added a piece of steel to the moving jaw to match the fixed one and drilled and taped a hole for a spacer bolt for cutting short pieces. Another trick you can do is put the pulleys on the lathe and true them up, mine were cast iron.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

My pulleys are very true... thankfully. Check out part 1 of this video. It has a cool trick for holding small stock.

[@pgs8597]

G’day Winky. I have the same saw but not the same problem so I won’t need to do the fix but thanks for sharing. My biggest problem was keeping the blade on the wheels until I found the adjustment set screw hiding in the top wheel adjuster, I wonder how many don’t know it’s there. Great little saw that’s affordable. Cheers Peter

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I need to take mine apart. My tracking is adjustable and works well but you are the second person to say the same. I think a lot of companies by the castings for these saws from the same place but do all the machining and assembling. So do well and some do not... lots of variations.

[@stefanandersson3774]

Thanks for the good video 😊

[@WinkysWorkshop]

My pleasure 😊

[@keenanhosking659]

That large tap holder i saw at minute 11:12 is that custom made by you?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah, I did that several years ago but have used the heck out it. Here's the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXScnYqohsqBjpIsi=x88VEjXvbS5Wd_Qh

[@dannysteele4013]

thanks much sir I learned an think or two.....good teaching skills

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad to hear that! Thanks

[@dizzolve]

really enjoy your videos Wink

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you like them! Thanks!

[@Farm_fab]

I bought one of those years ago that had an unusual problem. Someone had broken the cast iron pivot blocks and then scrapped it. I bought it for $10, brought it home and drilled down through the blocks and the pin and put 1/4-20 bolts through it and cranked it down. It worked well for me.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Very cool!

[@1crazypj]

I see you re-fitted the original blade guard. I left mine off and haven't had any issues but I am pretty careful not to grab under the framework as I know it isn't in place. The curved slot in plate could be chain drilled then filed to shape, I did it quite often before I had a mill/drill and rotary table. I keep some 'soft' MT2 blanks with draw bar for rotary table and made special ' top hat' washer to use a short bolt. It's really handy if your going to do any work where you need a relatively close centre on parts (~0.002") and saves dialing everything in every time.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... I've done that too. I love my mill - Ha. If you need a plate let me know. Click the link in the description. It has an email.

[@wernerpfeifer]

A perfectionist like "Mark Presling"

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Well I'm not sure about the perfectionist part but this plate made everything work the best. Thanks!

[@Engineerd3d]

I have the delta version of that saw. The castings and parts are different on the delta. With that said you certainly brought the HF version up to snuff. I like the idea of the side screw for the stop. Makes it much easier to adjust without having to dig out chips.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks... yes that screw was always full of chips.

[@Backfire10]

Love your videos Sir. Very nice. Keep them coming. Do you by chance have a video on how to make the saw wood stand? Seems very straight forward, but thought I would ask. Thank you Sir.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for watching. In hindsight, I should have made a video on that. Apparently the original stands are not very good. I made mine so that it would fit under my saw table. Sorry, no video but you are right, very simple. The only thing you need to do is cut a hole in the bottom board to access the vise bolts. Here's a couple of pictures. I made it out of think white oak but 3/4 plywood would likely work fine. I can't remember if I had to drill holes in the sides for mounting bars or if the holes were already there. photos.app.goo.gl/jZh4MtbswwfJjoy76

[@Sam-black]

Excellent and it looks good

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@dmadere1]

Sometimes you do what ya gotta do!!! Good fix!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@carlf8291]

That's weird I have what looks to be the same see from m.s.c and have not had that problem nice fix .

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Quality control issues. I suspect all the castings come from the same factory but they are machined and assembled by several. Basically, the pivot point on my saw is about 3/16 to 1/4" too high. Watch part-1. Originally it the head travel was not an issue because the blade guides were deflecting the blade downward at least 1/4". In reality the back wheel on the blade guide should barely touch the blade. The saw worked if you cut slow but if pushed a little the blade would fall of and mutilate the blade. Now that the guides are closer to the correct position I can cut at least twice as fast and blades last forever.

[@miken3260]

I think I mentioned it before, my 35 year old one doesn't have that casting around the switch and uses a simple old time toggle switch. No clearence problems on mine.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... the switch really wasn't the main issue. It could not be adjusted down low enough without hitting the blade cover on the bed. I made a lot of clearance for the switch too. You have to have a little free travel after it competes a cut to activate the switch. Now it can drop a full 1/4 at the switch.

[@wi11y1960]

Yup same as my MSC

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@wi11y1960 - Are you saying your MSC doesn't drop far enough? Let me know if you need a plate. Unless the cost is too high I plan on getting some cut with a water jet. If it's too high I won;t do it but if I can keep the cost lower than $30 I will do it.

[@nelsoncardenas7800]

muchas gracias

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Your welcome!

[@AlmostMachining]

Awesome job!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@danielboughton3624]

Mine does not have this issue but it is an older model. I don't remember exactly when I bought it - maybe the 90's. It is green v.s. the red and came from HF.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... it's hard to say how many are like this. Mine of only 5 or 6 month old.

[@bc65925]

Is step 3 to make a table that can be held in the vice with the saw up to use it as a vertical saw?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes sir! Ha Did you see that in my New Years video? Or did you send that Idea to me. I need to make sure and give whoever sent that to me credit. It was a great idea!

[@kimber1958]

I don’t own the saw yet But I’ll take one of the plates.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@kimber1958 - Some of the saws don't need them. I'd wait until you get a saw and see if yours is made better than mine.

[@jimzivny1554]

Great idea!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@Patriottoo2]

Perhaps, slots in the plate can be made via a plasma cutter.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I've never used one but yeah that would work too!

[@kimknowles3681]

Would be interested in elevation plate if made available.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

There is a link under the video to a template and instructions. Print the template full size and make sure it matches your saw and then send me an email (address in the instructions). I'll let you know a price when I get the quote back from the water jet shop. If i can't sell the plate for less than $30 I probably won't do it. I suspect this is possible but I'll know late Monday. Thanks for watching!

[@terrycannon570]

Another great creation Mark. More to add to my to do list. LOL

[@WinkysWorkshop]

All saw won't need this. I think it depends on what factory assembled it and when. If your saw needs it let me know. I'm thinking about making some to sell (hopefully fairly cheap)

[@terrycannon570]

@@WinkysWorkshop I've never had a problem with it cutting all the way thru. Biggest thing mine needs is some time and cleaning and to reset everything. I have 2 old power hack saws that i intend to revive this summer. One of them is a Marvel draw cut #1 and they brazed everything including cracks they made in the sprockets trying to get them off. so the blade is not square with the vice. And the vice is not adjustable to the blade so I will be scratching my head and maybe using some of your concepts. I really want to try to keep it all original but nobody wants a saw that does not cut square. lol Thanks again for your contribution.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@terrycannon570 Maybe you can mover the head from side to side and make it square.

[@rolandsmith2141]

Im picking up a similar saw this week so very keen to see what I'm up against......it seems a lot of work to get these cheaper saws to function satisfactorily , would it not better to correct the problem at the source of the problem "the hinge" end?. But thanks for so many rectification mods

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Not all the saws have this problem. From what I am seeing many of the older saws did not. Yes droppin gthe pivot point about 1/4" would be ideal but this would be a lot of work. Elevating the stock has no negative effect and much easier than boring a new hole in cast iron. I suspect you'd have to remove the head, mill off the cast hinge point and bolt on a steel bracket. All doable but a lot of work. Is your saw used? If so, maybe it will be fine. Check the oil in the gear box. This instructions call for 90W but mine looked like 20W (and i bought mine new).

[@markkoons7488]

One thing about cheap import tools is that those with errors of manufacture are often sold for $20 (or whatever) off. I point that out because I learned it the hard way, by supposing that the differences were in just the paint colors and the prices. That said, the problems with your saw and mine are shared though they were sold under different brand names and with different paint.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I figure they set up a bunch of jigs and assemble 20,000 (or whatever). Maybe they set them up different one time so a whole batch was screwed up. My saw was basically new. How old was your saw?

[@markkoons7488]

@@WinkysWorkshop The guy I got my saw from said he bought it new 20 or 30 years ago. It has a Dunlap decal, Sears' cheap-goods tool brand. You may be right about how they're assembled or at least how many are assembled but having lived in Asia 50 + years ago, I saw makers of castings, switches, bolts, paint, and V belts vending small lots to of parts to "manufacturers" who assembled all sorts of variants to what at first glance appeared to be the same equipment. I once did business with a US vendor of the cheapest Taiwanese variants. He billed himself as an engineer and may even have held a degree. In addition to the color of paint used in his line of tools, he cheapened everything in any way imaginable. One machine in particular, when plugged in, would boogey down the aisle if left unattended. About that time, I had a dream in which a Chinese vendor said, "Oooh, you nobody's fool. You big deal international trader. You want 9 cent part, I give you nine cent part." While that was strictly a dream, I remember it as embodying the essence of that importer's line of "goods".

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@markkoons7488 20 or 30 years ago? Wow... now that's very sad that these saw have been defective for that amount of time. I will say however that many have told me that their saws do not suffer from this problem. I wonder if these people are not seeing it or if their saws are truly aligned correctly? What you described with the engineer is a destructive mindset. The pride in making a good product has switched to pride in how much profit can be made. When I look at my South Bend the pride in the product is apparent. The sweeping cast legs and curved spokes in the V belt drive pulley are 100% pride. Lathes made now days would have a sheet metal pulley, and square welded stand. And even if they were cast the curves would be removed so save metal. Oh, and the cast iron gear cover that has survived 90 years would be a stamps piece of sheet metal. I like a low cost product as much as anyone but their are appropriate places to cut corners. Consumables like carbide inserts, sand paper, and paper towels are totally understandable. And specific to this saw, 20 minutes correcting a setup on an assembly line would make them a better product and only add pennies to the cost. I saw this mindset in my job. I worked for a web offset printer. They ran machines by a budget numbers and logic went out the window. When I ran a press I had a supervisor tell me, "Your average make-ready time is 10 minutes too long." I replied with "really?" and he said, "yes it is an you need to get it within budget". then I said, "I don't know what the budget is and really don't care". I thought he was going to blow a gasket. Then I said, "So, you are telling me to skip adjusting a drive chain, lubricating a bearing or changing a roller that might create huge amount of down time tomorrow to get my make-ready time down? If that is truly what you want just let me know but the fact is, the slight amount of extra time I take on a make-ready is increasing both quality and production." He just gave me that deer in headlights look.

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Great job wink, I just might do mine that way. Great info thanks.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Not all these saws need the plate but if you need it I'll be having some cut on a water jet. Although, if I can't keep the price below $30 I won't do it. Let me know if you want to buy a plate

[@paulhennessey3454]

Legend

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@doodlebug2121]

It seems like adding a plate on the outboard side of the blade would pinch the blade right before it cuts through the stock.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

As long as it is level and one side is clamped it won't. I think I will install a larger piece on there and close up the gap the blade goes into. small pieces fall in gap sometimes.

[@t.d.mich.7064]

Another simple fix for transferring c- sunk holes is to make a couple bushings with the I.D. a slip fit to the transfer punch that fits the hole to be transferred, and the O.D. large enough to keep your work setting parallel to the mating surface. Making things like this and hanging on to them over the years, eventually you will have different sizes on hand for next time.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the tip although I have actually done this. In my case I made tube with a tapered end to fit the countersink and inserted a small transfer punch. I then made a thick wall cylinder to slip over the tube with a square end to keep the punch square to the surface. I left it at work when I retired and didn't want to make another one.

[@wi11y1960]

I suppose it is the age of the saw. My MSC never suffered from that condition. I bought it around 1998. I havent been able to get out to inspect the saw yet. It is a mind numbing 4F here in Maine, It is on the todo list. Along with 10 other projects. Tho it may be a viid that I will add to my channel if I am still stumped. I dont believe the bearing is too tight. Also, no they arent worn out. It was the first thing I checked.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool train near the ceiling. I have thought about doing the same

[@wi11y1960]

@@WinkysWorkshop For sale, $200 with free shipping. Glad you liked it. LGB brass track/ 2 transformers/ 3 bachman pensylvania rr cars/ 1 pennsy 2-6-0 bachman loco/ 1 LGB Stanz loco,

[@millomweb]

Looking at the plate you've used to enlarge the fixed vice jaw, If you put that jaw on an angle, your bigger plate will also be cut short ! - unless it's possible to slide it along on the original jaw ? For some reason, I've not been made aware of your recent vids - so doing a bit of a catch up today. I note there's quite a few re mods to this saw. I'm beginning to wonder if you should have just built your own as you've done so many mods to this one :)

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Good observation. You are right about the fixed jaw. I take it off when i cut at an angle. Mostly I cut straight and having support near the blade is more important. I wonder why you are not being notified?

[@millomweb]

@@WinkysWorkshop I have not actually subscribed to ANY channels ! All videos come up as recommendations and YT seems to keep track of the sorts of videos I like and doing things this way allows the algorithm to throw in new similar channels - which is I suspect I came across you in the first place ! I'm well aware a lot use the notifcations - but I'm not that addicted to YT that I'd get a notification and then immediately watch the video. This means I'm more in control of my time and I view YT as and when I want to without any particular pressure to watch a particular video. I know that if I got a notification, I'd stop what I was doing and watch the video - that would be more disruptive to my day than YT already is :)

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@millomweb - You actually sounds like me although I do subscribe to a couple.

[@MiniLuv-1984]

Thanks Winky. That was good to watch. I have a question, would one buy one of these metal band saw or one of the drop saws using the metal cutting blades that are now available? What's the difference in what can be done one to the other?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I've only use the band saw but I've heard the low speed chop saws excel and tubing while band saws are good for large solid bar. If all I did was fabricate with tuning I'd have to try the chop saw.

[@delxlup]

The chop saws are accurate and fast, but very loud. Very compact, if you're tight on space. The carbide blades say they are good for 100 cuts. At $100 for a new one, you do the math...I have done more than that and it is still good so far. They do tend to throw chips around more.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@delxlup - If that's true 100 cuts in not very many! Yes they are loud and messy! I've never used one myself but I have been in the same room. I like the bandsaw.

[@MiniLuv-1984]

@@delxlup Thanks delxlup - good info. I use a drop saw for aluminium with a 60t blade and that works well but noisy as frigg and yes chips are everywhere. I suppose it won't be any different for a metal cutting blade on a drop saw.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

A nice modification Mark....

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks you sir

[@reeseromine2140]

Would spacer bushings behind the blade wheels achieve the same result?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That might work although spacing the wheel out would move the blade closer to the guard and vice. I suspect it would cause other issues. I think the root of this problem is a the hinge point for the head was drilled to high but moving the hole a 1/4 inch is hard to do.

[@lintelle2382]

another beauty of a video! 20-20 Hindsight: locate/transfer the holes before you countersink them??

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... I've lived this before. Seems like I'm a slow learner at times

[@73superglide62]

What reason need up .it be nice degress marks on that

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Sorry... not sure what you're asking

[@73superglide62]

@@WinkysWorkshop it wood be great so how put degress angle on base

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@73superglide62 If you mean for the stationary jaw to cut angles I agree, that would be a great idea!.

[@85nscarola]

Have you had a lot of blade breakage with this saw? I’ve gone through 4 blades in a week. Maybe a total of 40 cuts. I have the feed almost completely tight and the belt set at 80 for stainless. Yet I keep snapping blades at the seam. Blade is tight but not torqued down. I feel like I should be getting more cuts out of these blades. I used Bosch ones and I went a picked up some harbor freight ones today. Any insight would be helpful.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I had the same problem until I corrected the blade guide and depth of cut problem outlined in my videos. I've had the same blade installed for almost a year now. I think my blade is set at the fastest speed.

[@85nscarola]

@@WinkysWorkshop ok thank you. I’ll rewatch again tonight and hopefully be able to set mine up better. At this rate I’ll spend more on blades than the saw is worth.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@85nscarola If the saw is old there may be other issues but if it's fairly new I'd say the blade guides are deflecting the blade. The back wheels on the blade guides should not be turning when the saw is not cutting. Realistically this is sometimes hard to achieve and a little downward pressure is okay but if the blade guides are deflecting the blade downward more than maybe a 1/8" it leads to problems.

[@85nscarola]

@@WinkysWorkshop yeah. Just went and followed your video. Adjusted the guides. Was able to get the blade straight but can only get one back wheel to not touch. When I gap the second one the first one touches again. They were both touching before though so at least one isn’t making contact now while not cutting. Also tensioned the blade more. Read somewhere that it should be tight to the point where you can pluck it like a guitar string and you’ll get a twang from it.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@85nscarola Some contact with the back of the blade is okay as long as it isn't deflecting the blade much. Yes high tension is good. The blade deflecting under load is very hard on the blade.

[@vanessapower5829]

what milling machine are you using ? just curious

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I had an RF 30 round column but sold it. I now have a wells index model 40

[@mechaniclabor9686]

What oil do you recomend?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I think the manual said 90 wt gear oil which is what I put in it. Oddly what was in it looked motor oil.

[@tomlee7966]

i had to do the same thing to mine few years ago

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for letting me know... i wonder how many are like this?

[@85nscarola]

It took me 40 min to cut through 1 1/4”galvanized pipe. New blade. I did notice that my feed adjustment only turns a quarter turn each way though. Could that be the problem? No pressure?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Maybe so

[@85nscarola]

@@WinkysWorkshop about how many threads are usually exposed on your feed? Where the hook connects to the spring. Just trying to get a general idea as to how much feed I should have. Bought it used and it was screwed all the way in. No feed

[@WinkysWorkshop]

However, if you are cutting small stock, tubing and angle iron you will have to limit the downward pressure. If nothing else you will break teeth but most likely the saw will stall. With being said, if you blade guides are not set right or there is an alignment issue due to wear you will knock the blade off with too much pressure. Also a lack of tension on the blade will do the same. It needs to be fairly tight.

[@85nscarola]

@@WinkysWorkshop figured out the problem. Previous owner had the blade in backwards. That’s why I had to use so much pressure which ended up breaking my blade. Got a new blade and made plenty of cuts today thru 1/4” steel plate. Worked great

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@85nscarola Thats great!

[@Ironrosefarms]

Mine has a similar issue with cutting depth. If you do make them available, I might be interested. Otherwise it's drill and file for me.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I plan to make them available. The metal is $4 bucks but the water jet or laser to cut the plates is much higher. I've had companies do both for me in the past. I suspect I it will be $20 each but I'm hoping for less. I'd like to keep them lower than $30. Follow the link (below the video). It has an email address, send me an email and I'll let you know what the cost will be. I'll know next week. Also, there is a template you can print to make sure the plate I am making will fit!

[@Ironrosefarms]

@@WinkysWorkshop I tried sending an email to the email listed in the instructions but it bounced as undeliverable.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@Ironrosefarms - Wow... my screw up... sorry. I corrected the email address. [e-mail]

[@lennym1273]

One last mod for me would be the small jaw on the vise make one that is longer like the one you made for the main jaw...

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Good idea although the short jaw is short to to clear the blade guide.

[@lennym1273]

@@WinkysWorkshop Maybe not as long as the other jaw but longer then it is now...

[@colmone5592]

Could you just add tyres to the wheels?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

It would need to be a think tire to make much difference in cutting depth.

[@garydevoss355]

Can you just lower stop?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Watch part 1. The saw frame hit the switch. I ground a clearance in the frame and then the blade cover hit the bottom casting. I removed the cover and it kinda worked. This is the best option. The saw now drops about 3/16 after the cut and reliably trips the switch. Plus I put the guard back on.

[@aceroadholder2185]

I was going to post a link to a photo of a roll around base for a 4"x6" saw but apparently the jerks at google won't allow you to do that anymore.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's weird.... I had a problem sharing a link a while back but it seems to work fine now.

[@the4thj]

OIL?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

? - I need to check the oil in the great box... plan to do this tomorrow.

[@mikemcdonough1793]

Nice, but I would of made that spacer wider so it like an extension of the Table instead of just being a 1/2 wide make it 3" or so wide. js

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Ha... I thought exactly the same "after" making mine. I'll probably make a new spacer. Great minds!

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Looking good there Winky. Personally I would be happy if the blade just stayed on since mine cuts all the way through. .

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I wonder if you have a wheel alignment issue?

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

@@WinkysWorkshop I don't think so but who knows. When it gets a little warmer I will try to make it work again.

[@stevehuntley3089]

I use a piece of scrap plywood underneath the material that I'm cutting.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

If you are interested in buying a plate let me know. Click the link in the description area under the video for contact info. My goal is to make then for less than $30.

[@howardosborne8647]

Here is the link to a very simple idea that makes changing the blade on these saws a much safer and simpler process to do. Involves nothing more complicated than 2 short lengths of webbing and 2 bits of 'Velcro' hook and loop tape. Makes the task a lot less like wrestling a baby alligator. Link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6WslKmmet6pbMk

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's a great way to do it. Thanks

[@howardosborne8647]

@@WinkysWorkshop It totally controls the blade by preventing it from springing out of the roller guides when you are trying to manipulate the blade over the drive and idler wheels. It's one of the simplest but greatest improvements to the task I've ever seen....why didn't I think of that instead of struggling and cursing.😂😂

[@rbpercussion89]

Hard to see the cons to this, you could even turn the plate into a hold down fixture for odd shaped parts.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Check out Part-1. Toward the end there is a very simple but cool way to hold small pieces.

[@JamesDedmon]

I’ve never had that problem, of course my saw is a bit different 4 x 6

[@WinkysWorkshop]

This saw had some issues. I suspect the castings all come from the same Chinese foundry but then go to many other factories for milling and assembly. Who knows how many have the same problem as mine. I can make the saw work but moving the blade down with the guides but that's not really the correct approach and very hard on the blade.

[@Unrivaledanime]

Nice Job As Usual Winky... for you next trick you will turn that saw into a DoAll saw ....LOL

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Part 3 will have an interesting twist... but maybe now a DoAll. Thanks

[@t-mecseismicoilfilleddampe8221]

Hello

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I agree... what does this have to do with a bandsaw?

[@EVguru]

There is an easier solution. Put a spacer on the idler/tension wheel axle.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'm not sure it would be easier but an interesting idea.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

I got the same problem on my band saw. Here's a link to it: www.warco.co.uk/metal-bandsaws-metalworking-saws/53-4-12-universal-bandsaw.html. In my opinion You used a big gun to solve the issue. I found out that the poorly made, poorly formed, wheel/blade cover hit the bed. Using a polygrip just bending that cover solved that problem. There's also a blade protection attached to the left of the cut, most faar away from the motor, that's poorly formed. That makes an obstacle regarding the depth when moving the blade guide "to the right", when cutting "small" objects. I suppose some brutal mechanics can correct this.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Watch Part 1 of this video. I worked on the rear blade guide and helped tracking. I also removed the guard so that it would drop far enough but still had issues with the auto shut off. What I did here was a lot of work but the best fix.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

@@WinkysWorkshop Okey. Didn't notice You removed that blade guard. That's of course the quick and easy way. I've been thinking about doing that. I'll see if my polygrip can do the job. Else the plan B is ready to be used.... Bending things to the correct angle looks like being a problem for the Chinese what ever product it is.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

@@WinkysWorkshop Looking at part 1 again, at time 01:42, it looks like Your saw is slightly different from mine. Found out that the mount is adjustable but the cross head screw was overtightened and is now ruined. Drill and new screw tomorrow......

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@Stefan_Boerjesson Agree... they have a quality control problem.

[@danmitchell5897]

I like the I don't know maybe probably not but it could but if doesn't it might not matter if it did but don't do like this. Humorous how to in slow motion

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Just sharing and learning as I go. Thanks for watching.

[@danmitchell5897]

Refreshing relaxing watching you learn. You knowledge and experience presented in this format may be more valuable than you think.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@danmitchell5897 Wow... maybe you are right, thanks

[@KW-ei3pi]

Winky: I love your channel and watch it often, but this is a completely unnecessary modification based on a false assumption. Here, and in the Tune Up video, you mention the "Ideal" position of the blade guides. Ideal, maybe. But if it causes the saw to not work as designed, it is obviously not "ideal". As well, "not ideal" does NOT mean wrong or unacceptable. So my assertion is that there is nothing wrong with the blade guides adjusted in such a way that the saw works as designed even though the blade is not perfectly aligned with the wheels. In fact, I have found that on my saws, they must be aligned with the proper cutting position, NOT the wheels. How long did your saw work fine before your blade guide adjustment caused the saw not to finish the cut? I've been using my version of this saw for about 40 years, and also the larger "Carolina" type bandsaws. Both of these types of saws need several "tweeks", but honestly, this is not one of them. All of this being said, I have made my share of similar false assumptions that resulted in failure. But, that's how we lean.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for watching and I welcome the comments but respectfully I disagree. Ideally the blade should not be deflected but only rotated to vertical. Can the blade be deflected? Yes and to a point it doesn't matter. Slight deflection goes unnoticed but when it approaches a 1/4-inch it creates a lot of problems. You mentioned needing to deflect the blade to make it cut correctly. I assume you mean side to side because there is no advantage to pushing the blade downward aside from making the saw complete the cut. The correct procedure would be to set the fixed jaw of the vise parallel to the pitot shaft (for the head) and then align the guides to make the saw cut square. If you do this more than likely the saw will cut square with no blade deflection unless one of the wheels is mislocated (which is possible but not likely). I used my saw for about 4 month and broke 3 blades before I addressed this problem. I just changed the blade two weeks ago and this was the first time in about a year. It was still sharp and has never fallen off but it was missing a 1/4 section of teeth. I suspect I let it down to quickly cutting angle iron but I'm not sure. Anyway, Jet manual as well as several other band saw manuals state that the guide bearing on the back of the blade should not contact while the blade isn't cutting. In reality very light contact is okay but deflecting the blade shortens blade life and makes the saw cut less consistent. Before fixing my saw it cut slowly and when I tried to increase the downward pressure the blade would fall off. After fixing, tracking and installing the plate I can cut at full pressure unless the stock is small. To me this is all logical but before assuming I was correct I watched a video from Jet showing how to set up a saw and read several manuals from various manufacturers. They were all basically saying the same. Anyway, if the saw is only slightly off, deflecting the blade a little is fine. My blade is still deflected about 1/8" even after installing the elevation plate. So I made no assumptions and to be honest I think Carolina was one of the manuals I looked at.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Here's a Grizzly video on blade guide setup. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpzCeniXoJ56grs

[@KW-ei3pi]

@@WinkysWorkshop kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHzXnIqurZmbhLs

[@howardosborne8647]

By around the 8 minutes and 25 seconds point this video had been interrupted 5 times for advert breaks. I've decided to quit watching at 5mins 40 secs as I can see by the time bar below there are several more breaks before the video ends. I've had a similar experience whilst watching Mr Pete's latest video earlier this evening. Not your fault,Mark, but if KZbin are determined to drown every bit of content out with excessive advertising I'll back away from watching any of it. KZbin getting fat too greedy with advertising content. Not good at all.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Midroll ads have been eliminated on this video and all future videos. I don't know if you realize this but youtube creators earn revenue based on a complicated set of statistics like amount of time ads are watched, if they were skipped banner ads, and even ads on the side panel. It isn't very much but you can calculate a per view earning. I've had my channel for 4 years now and this rate keeps going down and the number of ads keep going up. There is a lot of time effort and expense that goes into making videos and although youtube has earnings cover most of my expenses my hourly rate is likely $1/hour. Good thing I like doing this! Anyway, if I need to eliminate the mod roll adds to keep viewers I will. I guess I need to check this setting regularly! Thanks for letting me know about this.

[@reelmoody2376]

A few creators are adding content to Rumble. Although I pay for Premium, ads aren’t a factor. But, I have no issues with Rumble and would watch your vids either place. Thanks for your great videos, ideas and methodology.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@reelmoody2376 I should add videos to rumble but no other related content is there.

[@reelmoody2376]

Mr Pete, Keith Fenner and a few others have just started. Put content on both.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@reelmoody2376 - Interesting! I will do this. KZbin is getting too greedy.

[@jdmccorful]

Another great modification. Good thinking, love it.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you like it!