40,000 Lumen LED Aquarium Light

[@mrclown7469]

Next video: How to make tiny fish sunglasses

[@pyronac1]

and fishy sunscreen

[@brinkshows2720]

He says its equal light output of noon around the equator. So if you have tropical fish (which most ppl want) they are used to it.

[@universebecomingltd]

@@brinkshows2720 He said 1/2 the intensity. But that doesn't change your point. Your point is 1/2 times more valid. :p

[@brinkshows2720]

@@universebecomingltd haha, oops, my mistake, or should i say half a mistake?

[@universebecomingltd]

@@brinkshows2720 :p

[@lucasthompson1650]

This is a wonderful little LED project! Here are a few notes for the saltwater aquarists, especially you reef keepers who are always on the hunt for cheaper/brighter lights: Stick with aluminum. Copper, even in small amounts, is lethal to saltwater fish and invertebrates. I suppose maybe PVC or silicon hoses would work as well, but aluminum pipes connecting to an aluminum block gives you great heat dissipation. Don't even consider stainless steel unless you have it powder-coated for extreme corrosion protection. There is no such thing as "stainless" steel around salt water at a specific gravity of ~1.025. Toss a stainless steel spoon or fork in that water and it'll be turning into black sludge in days. Even for aluminum, I'd recommend some sort of protective coating, simply because it's so reactive and marine salt contains so many different minerals. I'd recommend adding a few more twists to the coolant pipes to prevent any incidental splashes from being able to travel the length of the pipe via gravity and start collecting at the junction box, similar in concept to a "drip loop" for electrical wires (Google it). If you have a large aquarium (>40gal) with a large lid, you have more options as this wonderful little light could easily be mounted inside the top of the lid and as long as the direction of the coolant line travels down a bit before going up again, splashed water can collect at that low point and safely drip back into the tank. Again, aluminum is quite reactive so this is another good reason for spraying a protective inert coating or simply using silicon hoses since a lid-mounted light won't need the extra rigid support. The tank in the video is freshwater, which doesn't conduct nearly as well as saltwater, but still, seeing anything electrical sitting a few inches away on a surface at the same level as the bottom of the tank is like watching those crazy Russian free climbers doing chin-ups on radio towers. I cringe. A good way to know if you're safe is to imagine something landing on the back edge of your tank, breaking a nice sized chunk of glass out of the top of the back pane, and spilling 1/3 of the volume of the tank onto the table. In a safe setup, the only repair needed after picking up any fish that land on the floor that should be replacing the back pane of the aquarium (or the entire aquarium if it's a small 20gal like the one in the video). Did you need a third good reason for coating your aluminum? Add "non-conductive" to the list of requirements to look for when you go shopping around for a protective coatings. For deep reef tanks, you might want to consider adding a lens to the LED for deeper water penetration. Cree offers a number of optics options for their LED products, as do all of their competitors. The LED industry is innovating at an incredible pace these days, so it's worth shopping around - can't really go wrong with Cree these days, they're the 1970s IBM of the light emitting diode market. If you keep any species of invertebrates that produce pigments in response to lighting changes - including most soft and stony corals, clams, coralimorphs/zoanthids, and anemones - you should compare the spectral output of your current display tank lights and make sure to use an LED with a similar spectrum (or an array of smaller LEDs that add up to that spectrum). Generally a 10000K overall color temperature is sufficient for most reef tanks but Your Mileage May Vary™. If your saltwater tank has a sump and an external/hang-on overflow box, you might be tempted to use the same kind of cheap little diaphragm pump that maintains the siphon on your overflow to pump the water for the cooling system. Don't. Those little things are engineered to just barely have enough power to start the overflow siphon and have no way to regulate flow, and the odds that it's fixed flow rate will be exactly what your cooling block needs is a long shot you don't want to bet your expensive reef fish and corals on. And finally… this should go without saying, but still … Watch the video again and count the number of fish in the tank. Got it? (Spoiler alert: it's zero). That's the correct and absolutely the only number of fish that should be in any tank you're testing a DIY LED fixture (or DIY anything) on. Great project, as usual! I love the water cooling idea, and for all the commenters suggesting it's too bright, 120% of a typical 400W metal halide's output is just fine. It is not "so bright your fish will have eye cancer" (where do these ideas even come from?). Less than a decade ago it was quite commonplace for 250-400gal coral reef tanks to have three (3) 400W metal halide fixtures above the tank, all with highly polished German aluminum reflector assemblies - thus, the reason that those "aquarium chillers" mentioned in the video became a thing. Also, sometimes your electric bill would come in a box instead of an envelope. 😎

[@lucasthompson1650]

@justame smith Food grade HDPE plastics are perfectly safe to use around aquariums. They are easily identified by the #2 inside the recycling symbol. Monofilament fishing line is great for hanging pendant lights, hanging pumps (to quiet them), and even securing rocks together inside the aquarium. UV-resistant zip ties also come in handy for certain applications. Just make sure you recycle this stuff when you’re done, so it doesn’t end up in one of our big natural aquariums like the Pacific.

[@nated1971]

If it's not worth over doing, its not worth doing

[@PeteSebert]

You could also create a closed loop using stainless tubing in the base of the aquarium so it acts as a radiator and then you don't share water with the fish.

[@michaelyoutube5149]

That would be a double benefit. No aluminum to fish water and no fish water into the cooling block where a bacteria reservoir may develop. Although the epoxy sealant still seems like a good idea.

[@brinkshows2720]

The first problem with this design is that you would have 2 heat exchangers (From the led to the line water and from the line water to the aquarium water). The problem with this is that you would have a hotter LED. Lets say for instance if you have 20 degrees line water and have a 40 degrees led. You have a delta T of 20 degrees. (celsius). So if you use aquarium water you led is 40 degrees. When you have a second heat exchanger you need for instance a difference of 20 degrees also in the aquarium. So to cool the line water with the aquarium you need a delta T of 20 degrees and to cool the led you need a delta T of 20 degrees. So your led will run at 60 degrees (20+20+20(ambient)). The second problem is with the thermal conductivity of stainless steel. It is so low you would be stupid to use it in a heat exchanger. If you would exchange a aluminium water block for a stainless steel one you would need to have 15 times the surface area to cool your led. For copper its even worse. For copper it has to be 25 as large of a surface area. Copper has a thermal conductivity of 401 W·m−1·K−1 Aluminium has a thermal conductivity of 237 W·m−1·K−1 Stainless steel has a thermal conductivity of around 16 W·m−1·K−1 These 2 problems combined would definitely make this "solution" one of the worst and most expensive you can think of. What he did in the video was coating it with epoxy, what they do allot too is coating it from the inside with other metals like Zinc, nickel or some other metals. I don't think this would fit also in an aquarium so his solution is the best for now i think.

[@AntonioJoseAValerio]

@@brinkshows2720 No it's not. Pete Sebert is right. You are not very good with numbers, actually you are pretty bad. Redo your math before replying to this.

[@brinkshows2720]

@@AntonioJoseAValerio Well show me then if you think you are correct and iam not. Iam a Electro Technical Engineer and part of my job is working with the basics of thermodynamics. (calculating heat losses and energy transfers to heatsinks etc)

[@AntonioJoseAValerio]

@@brinkshows2720 So it's not only your math that's wrong. Your job career is a tad wonky too.

[@chengong388]

Is this some kind of a cookware for a special dish involving exotic fish?

[@probablynotabigtoe9407]

How to poach a fish in 10 not so easy steps

[@One-way]

1096 bimu fish x-ray machine

[@ralphmartini2863]

I stumbled upon ur u tube sight a couple of years ago…excellent ur subjects match all my interests. ❤the tech info, ideas, thinking outside of the box. Most of the time I understand what u r talking about. The other times I need to learn more. Ghandi said…”learn as if u will live forever, live as if u will die tomorrow .” That’s my creed. Thanks.

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks! That's a nice quote.

[@wearemilesfromnowhere4630]

Very nice setup. What I have been building for my bioreactors is a round extruded acrylic tube, sealed on one side. Inside of this tube is a square aluminum tube with the cobb lights mounted to it. The aluminum tube is suspended about an inch from the bottom of the plastic tube and extends some 8" beyond the open side of the plastic tube. The exposed end of the aluminum tube has a small squirrel cage type fan mounted to it. By controlling the delta of the forced air and the tank water, I can control the tank temperature. I currently operate 180 watts of full spectrum cobb lights along each tube. Nothing like heat from what otherwise would be wasted.

[@tcarlaw]

Thanks for this comment! It answered a question I posed. There is a great post I read on the internet once about someone using a toilet tank as a heat sink for computer cooling. I think they produced a graph of their CPU temperatures. The porcelain toilet dissipated enough heat to adequately cool an over-clocked CPU but performed particularly well after flushes. I'm thinking that putting a fermentor in my bedroom and creating the perfect cycle of worship between Dionysius and the porcelain goddess in my washroom to keep me warm and my spirits high for the winter. My dream is to find a way to adapt a computer speaker into a vacuum pump to distill the spirits from my wash while maximizing the conversion of sugars in my wash by lowering its alcohol content. I'm actually curious if your setup could be adapted by funneling the air from a sponge filter through a similar tube positioned like a reflux column in a still so the vertical components dissipate heat and the horizontal connectors act as supports and heatsinks for the COBS. I've also been looking at using profile aluminum tubing to create a small greenhouse on my balcony in my highrise apartment building and had been worried about how much energy the profile tubing would conduct but now I am thinking properly insulated I could use it as a safe radiator to heat the area.

[@wearemilesfromnowhere4630]

@@tcarlaw What needs to be looked at for limitations is your maximum operating temperature of the cobb lights. Something like 140°f at the heat sink junction. Everything else such as heat output is a matter of variations of air velocity through the tube. Maintain your deltas! I play it safe and keep my air temps at 110°f max. Best wishes.

[@boots7859]

Former reef tanker here, excellent video. That last part with the epoxy coating inside the cheap block is the killer!

[@TechIngredients]

I too was surprised when he mentioned it. Once you think about it, it's obvious but...so is Velcro.

[@Conservator.]

Thank you for explaining what (and most importantly why) you’re doing in a compact yet clear way Now I know about the different diffraction indexes of the two epoxy components. Interesting and useful at the same time!

[@HerbaMachina]

I wouldn't combine the liquid cooling of the LED with the Tank though, particularly just because the potential for growth of bacteria / algae in the cooling loop would occur and possibly clog up the loop and not letting the LED chips be cooled properly.

[@nejiniisan1265]

You have a point. But since it's metal tubing (kills some bacteria) and the water flow is steady, it will take long to have some sort of build up.

[@HerbaMachina]

@@nejiniisan1265 idk man, buildup can happen pretty quickly in watercooled PC's and that's with distilled water and no fish or plants in the loop causing some real pain if you don't add a biocide to kill any bacteria in the loop.

[@megan_alnico]

@@nejiniisan1265 I'm not sure this is a safe answer. Anyone familiar with the PC overclocking scene knows what happens when a water cooling system fails, you risk catastrophic failure. In a PC that's a significant financial investment and the risk of fire. I can't imagine an expensive exotic fish tank would be any different. This should be a closed loop solution using distilled water. Syncing the heat back into the tank is fine and epoxy sealing the block is genius but you can't trust turing your back to a cooling system that could contaminated with fish poop.

[@nejiniisan1265]

Agreed. The aluminum itself is a biocide, not a good one. I was relying on the tubing diameter and the cooling block channels diameters. As for the catastrophic failure, the worst scenario is the fish staying in the dark. But, as you have said, a closed system is the best solution.

[@jimferguson9528]

You could use a second block that's immersed in the tank that would act as a heat exchanger. The coolant would be isolated from the water in the tank. If algae grew on the outside of the immersed block, it would be easy to clean.

[@dhyanais]

I own aquariums for more than 30 years (I am talking about freshwater tanks). If you use 20-30 lm/l (lumen per liter) you are fine. However if you use more than 50 lm/l you run into all kind of problems. You really have to know what you are doing to keep the ecosystem in balance with this amount of light. Anyhow it becomes a lot of work and it is very difficult to obtain a healthy balance between nutrients and consumption by the plants - unless you like algae a lot. Using biologically active water for cooling doesnt sound good also. I never have clean tubes in my filter. They quickly fill up with residues of all kind. This also sounds like a lot of work to me cleaning these small hoses.

[@TechIngredients]

For low light levels, a single COB mounted well above a large tank should do nicely. Higher light levels for some planted tanks and especially for shallow water corals can be useful. I just showed how easy it is to get large amounts of light from a small, flexible source. Cooling with the aquarium as the heat sink, whether closed cycle or open as I demonstrated can reduce electrical consumption.

[@danielp6629]

All of the following is just my opinions so take it for what it's worth and thanks for sharing the video. I get the science behind it but for freshwater IMO it's not feasible and way overkill unless you had it in a large planted tank. Then you run into the issue of hot spots since it's not reflecting equally and the middle of the tank directly under the light would be too bright and the outside would be too dim for a natural look. That being said for a reef tank the active cooling introduces a factor of uncertainty you def don't want. You want stability so cooling the led with aquarium water will lead to heat spikes on hot days , fluctuations during on and off times etc that would only be reduced or controlled with an aquarium controller and chiller that all in all ends up costing more $. There's a few guys in the UK who built a few water cooled multichip full spectrum reef lights but had the cooling on a separate system so it doesn't effect the stability of the system. Stability is critical with a reef tank. Thanks for sharing your build , thoughts and the info on the epoxy coating that was new to me and a great idea. I see this working well on like a hydroponic grow light that temperature swings aren't as critical or something like an outdoor pond that can be ran on a large volume of water and hung high for viewing only.

[@M0N0K0I]

@@TechIngredients Kept a marine 150l tank for many years. I wish I had known this back then, small footprint - awesome output.

[@waterlubber]

Another great save by the son of the main presenter! Great job, father of the son of the main presenter, I love these videos.

[@quantumfrenzy74]

This guy makes me regret going into the military instead of going to school for engineering. I'm now in the trades and also teach on occasion, so I do okay, but this guy did it right. Probably had really supportive parents and he seems like he's probably an awesome dad to have, tech-wise. His shop is definitely on point, much to many a dude's envy. He does all the things and is appropriately articulate. He's like an Adam Savage or AVE with an teaching/engineering PhD. Not to get on his nuts, but, unexpectedly my favorite channel.

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks! If you've done some teaching, then you might consider kicking it up a notch and sharing the many things you've learned. Starting a KZbin channel is pretty easy, and there are many examples out there as guides to formating and hosting. Think about it.🙂

[@HarmanRobotics]

I see three issues with using epoxy to isolate the aluminum block. 1. Epoxy does not bond well to aluminum. I would not trust the barrier to remain 100% for months and years to come. Especially at the interior corners and at the joint where the SS nipples are attached. 2. You will get pooling of the epoxy in areas inside the block unless you constantly rotate it while it cures. 3. Using aquarium water to cool will eventually lead to biofouling. Better to to make it a closed loop with a length of SS tubing submerged in the aquarium as a heat exchanger.

[@TechIngredients]

The epoxy does not need to bond well to the aluminum. This is a coating and not a structural application. In. Some of our other videos, I explain how to achieve an excellent structural bond between epoxy and aluminum. The water that enters the light should come from the filter and it is completely dark within the tubing. Biofilms will be slow to develop compared to everywhere else in the aquarium. Ultimately, it can be cleaned.

[@HarmanRobotics]

@@TechIngredients I disagree, I think it is critical to have a strong bond in order to form and maintain a complete barrier. Proper epoxy barrier coating of aluminum (which is what you are doing) requires diligent preparation (etching) in order to to be reliable. Sharp interior corners, thermal cycling and dissimilar metal junctions increases the likelihood of a barrier failure.

[@TechIngredients]

We'll have to agree to disagree. Shrink wrap provides an excellent barrier and has no bond strength at all. Epoxy bridges gaps and it's low surface tension prevents beading. On another note, there is an excellent alternative to etching which I agree is the standard for achieving a good bond. Sanding the surface after it has been coated prevents the oxidation of the exposed, fresh metal and the resulting bond strength equals the strength of the epoxy itself.

[@alexandero.4496]

This reminds me of FDA

[@gullreefclub]

I have used those Chinese water cooling blocks on several projects and only had one that weeped/seeped/leaked (and that was under about 5-7psi pressure testing” and my method of remediation was far less elegant than using a low viscosity epoxy to seal/fill leak points from the inside. My method of remediation was applying JB weld to the nipple/cooling block connection. Personally I think the idea of coating the inside of the block with epoxy sounds like it good idea as long as the temperature spec of the epoxy are not exceeded and that it is food/fish safe. Many years ago I used a generic silicone to reseal a corner on a fish tank and from that point on even goldfish did not live long in that tank. As far as biofouling is concerned I doubt that would be much if any of a problem especially if the tank was fresh water However I would have no qualms using this type of setup in a saltwater tank. Personally I would have a possible greater concern with how clean the aluminum that was used to make the heat sink out of but since the interior of the heat sink is coated in epoxy that all but alleviates that concern. On a side note I have any number of old brass and bronze hose “T” and valves that I still use in my fresh and salt water tanks and have seen tanks with cooper fittings in them and the fish are healthy and happy. The basic rule I was told many years ago is if metal oxidizes in the tank don’t polish it because the oxidation layer is most times inert.

[@bagelbandit6076]

I’d like to see your take on growing indoor herbs with a setup like this.

[@darksentinel9304]

Don't leave this on too long or a super algae monster will evolve and crawl out of the tank

[@PlatinNr1]

xD

[@giuseppebonatici7169]

or, you can just deal with the super algae monster and have a self cleaning tank. it's a win-win.

[@SimmeringPotpourri]

This is where plants would come in handy, which is exactly why I want to know more about this.

[@NzAviator]

3 min day cycle

[@frogz]

or, you can just deal with the super algae monster and feed it and cultivate it and...OH GOD NO, IT IS REAL, THE ALGAE MONSTER IS REAL, IT IS EATING MY FOOT, HELP!!!

[@brt5273]

Wonderful! And the epoxy coating on the inside of the cooling block is brilliant! Love your channel

[@dtsdigitalden5023]

"So Long, and Thanks for All the Fish!" I enjoy your videos far more than any person should. Compliments to you sir.

[@TechIngredients]

Thank you!

[@domitron]

I put in 1100W of light over a 90-gallon reef tank and never bought a chiller nor do I recommend using one since (a) they use a lot of power creating more heat in the room that must be removed and (b) you will miss out on the opportunity to add more kalkwasser in an evaporative system. I simply mounted two fans blowing over the surface and had an automated top-off system that added kalkwasser (a saturated calcium hydroxide solution). This made the corals grow like crazy and kept the colors vibrant, and it kept the pH, calcium levels, and alkalinity of the system up sufficiently that it could support even heavy coral and coralline growth. The growth in my tank was so striking that I often held tours of it to help younger reef tank enthusiasts duplicate my success. In the case that you live in a closed up house, I recommend venting the fans up and outside through a flue. Since we are on the topic of heat dissipation, I also recommend, in any powerful reef setup, a simple thermal switch to turn off the lights in case a fan or chiller fails because just like we are seeing in nature today, reefs catastrophically fail if they run even 10F too warm via coral bleaching events, which in a closed system can also reduce oxygen levels to the point that other creatures die with them within hours. Some people also buy two-stage switches that can turn a second fan on before turning off the lights if modest warming is experienced. This stuff is IMPORTANT! I've seen two people lose over 10,000 worth of fish and coral because they didn't spend $100 on such a switch and had either a fan or chiller go out when they were out of town. Incidentally, such thermal switches can be had for less than half that online in today's direct-from-the-east world, and even the solid state ones aren't much over $130 or so.

[@TechIngredients]

Over our large reef tank we used to use four, 400W MH lamps without a chiller, but the large sump and skimmer produced a lot of evaporative loss and hence cooling. This tank is located in a cool basement, however we have a smaller tank that always ran warm despite relatively lower lighting levels because it was located in a warm room. These LED lights and the potential for removing the heat with a low power closed loop radiator, provides another option.

[@domitron]

@@TechIngredients Yeah LED lighting has changed the whole reef keeping game. I was getting out of reef keeping, after 20 years of being in, right around when the better units really hit the market in full, but I did use a prototype design from my brother's company Castle Creations for my 120 at the time. Castle ended up sticking with brushless motor speed controls, but given the high-power, pulsing DC that brushless motors need to control them, it should be no surprise such a company dabbled in reef tank high-intensity LED setups. The 700W LED prototype created a very intense well-balanced white-blue light (extremely beautiful rendition), but I also felt the growth I got wasn't quite as high as I'd expect with the readings coming off the PAR meter. I think nowadays, though, LED lighting is a no-brainer, and I'm sure the issue of the spectral holes has been worked out to give superior growth. Plus, as your video makes super clear, there are huge advantages to cooling a solid state point-source light device like that. Water cooling, for example, would have been very much appreciated in the days of metal halides too, but it was too unwieldy to really take on for halides in any tank owner I'd met. High-intensity LED-packed chips changed everything.

[@jonilarsen-haikarainen8733]

4:25 that "q-tip" looks like a toothpick.

[@anchorbait6662]

4:21 that's a dangerous looking q-tip you got there :p haha

[@davcar872]

I must say this is the best-designed aquarium lighting I have seen. All the commercial lights are outrageously overpriced, ugly and large. You have a very powerful light that is aesthetically pleasing with the smallest footprint I have seen and its water-cooled. Well done sir. Most if not all the negative comments obviously come from those not into aquariums. Aquarium water is not full of solid matter such as poo that will clog up lines or the aluminum block as claimed by some of the commentators. The water is actually highly filtered. Biofilms certainly exist. An absolute necessity for the very survival of the ecosystem but does not exist at the levels necessary to foul up pumps, lines, wavemakers, water circulators or anything that is in contact with water so long as the water is constantly circulating. You will find that most if not all aquarists are very anal about maintaining their tanks at optimal levels through constant maintenance. I also like the idea of heat dissipation through a closed loop. I am working on making this design water submersible. For those of you thinking hot spots, they don't exist.

[@outputcoupler7819]

Thanks for the video. I'm designing an ROV to remove invasive lionfish from reefs in the Gulf of Mexico, and the CXB3590 is one of the LEDs I'm considering for the work lights. The goal is to have enough light to operate the ROV safely at night. Looking at using five of these, two sets of two for spotlights, and a fifth on the camera for the spear. Might be overkill, but I'd rather have more light available than I need than need more light than I have.

[@mrbmp09]

Any video of the fish killing robot yet???

[@VideoNash]

I've got many of those water cooling blocks lying around, from back in the days when I was using peltiers, thinking that I could create an efficient, whole house heating/cooling system. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. :) With ALL Respect...

[@TechIngredients]

Sure and thank you!

[@victoryfirst2878]

Thank you for giving me an education when it comes to light, heat, and cooling. Peace, VF

[@bones357]

I very much like the quality of the light this setup produces and not only how it makes the tank look, but how the unit itself looks.👍👊

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks!

[@artinaghadjani6528]

I would love to see a video of a planted aquarium fixture build with a mixture of different color LEDs to achieve a proper Spectrum. Possibly more affordable chips and drivers.

[@TechIngredients]

There is an economy of scale. Mixing various Cree or Philips COBs provides a lot of spectral control and the drivers increase in power a lot faster than the price.

[@thomasneal9291]

you can buy ready made fixtures like that for relatively cheap now. I paid about US 80.00 for the system I used on my 150 liter tank and it works perfectly. you can adjust the brightness of any of the color elements, and it has both individual red and blue color elements, as well as a blended white element. it's all a self contained water resistant unit you can put on little blocks right on top of your tank. been using it over a year now with zero problems.

[@MysticalDork]

One idea that just came to mind while you were describing the aluminum corrosion problem would be to have a two-loop system with a liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger in between, that way you have no aquarium water in your water block. It could be as simple as a bunch of small stainless tubes in a plastic box, sealed with epoxy.

[@TechIngredients]

That would work.

[@gafrers]

This is relatively simple compared to your other projects but it's equally awesome.

[@andymouse]

Funny, only the other day I was thinking about "low viscosity epoxy" whilst watching another of your vids, then I jump to this one!...neat idea.

[@Spirit532]

Have you investigated the qualities of the epoxy coating that results from the syringe process? It would be interesting to see what the inside of the block looks like after it's coated with epoxy. Layer thickness, uniformity, etc.

[@Freakoutski]

My thought was the leaching out of BPA and so on from the epoxy isn't great for fish either. I would guess however, that compared to dissolved aluminium, it would be the lesser evil. Assuming he doesn't plan to eat the fish.

[@TechIngredients]

There a a large number of aquaria built largely from plywood and coated with epoxy. The fresh or salt water fish have no problem with this.

[@farzinp8277]

The main problem will likely be due to biofouling which will significantly reduce cooling efficiency - can probably be mitigated with regular maintenance. The biofilm that forms should sequester most epoxy "leakage" in the sink.

[@warlikelaughter6230]

Tech Ingredients I'm allergic to fresh water fish but...

[@boots7859]

@@farzinp8277 Probably should get a glue on temp sticker on it to monitor when it starts to get fouled. When the temp goes above average, disconnect, run vinegar through it and then clean and reassemble.

[@groupchat2554]

These are the components we are using for our starter rooms. The diy shop stuff is refreshing.

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks!

[@victororo462]

One idea with this system would be a microcontroller that reads the temperature of the water 💧 that is cooling the LEDs and speeds up the pump or slows it down. You might also want to use something else other that epoxy to seal the inner water block due to chemicals getting to the fish. I believe the normal clear silicon would do the job and once it cures, no worries. What also would be cool is a revolving head that goes onto the LEDs to give it a sort of shadows moving through the water. Very cool lighting system. I did experiment with different lights on my 100 gallon fresh water setup. It was very cool to see little beams of LED light moving slowly through the water at night. Beams of different colors, a blank CD with drilled holes and spinning slowly by being attached to a 360 servo was ultra cool! I went to the hobby shop and bought different colored sheets of thin transparent plastic, used a hole puncher to create the small color disks, then clued them over the holes that I drilled into the spinning blank CDs. It was killer to look at in a dark room with Agua colored lighting.

[@andymuller327]

Well done as always, really enjoyed your son’s idea too,it it such a delight for an inventive father to see that same spirit by his kids( all ages) and that they contribute and learn during the process. Congratulation with your achievements! Don’t know how people can give a thumbdown for such an environment friendly and efficient use of energy. Maybe they don’t realize you can size it up and use the principe for other projects. Maybe they are irritated by your absence of arrogance, real brilliance does not need that, you prove that every time again. If you ever come to Holland, you and your family are welkome!!

[@pmag3200]

Fish 1: dont look up honey Fish2: too late..my eyes are burned

[@Fishtory]

Very cool! Im an aquarium hobbyists and this would be amazing as a spotlight for deep tanks with rimless arrangements

[@unlokia]

Do you cook your fish to order, and how does one reserve a table?

[@leahanna5594]

If it's not worth over doing, its not worth doing

[@maxleadleybrown]

An amazingly complete video. I love it that your method is to show possibilities, not prescriptive recipes! Having said that, it would be very interesting to compare the power consumption of the driver, any extra pump power loss (maybe negligible) in comparison to ‘conventional’ halide or fluorescent lighting rigs. This is undeniably a smaller head unit, but i wonder if the additional set up is enough of an advantage: a radical drop in power consumption would be a definite plus!

[@oddjobbobb]

Very interesting. I cannot imagine how much fun it must be to have your scientific knowledge and engineering abilities. Thank you for sharing both with us.

[@OptionParty]

An array of these lights on the bottom of a boat, could help folks exploring lake bottoms for wrecks, etc.

[@Snyper20]

All of your videos are so well done and your experience shines through with brilliance. Good job! I appreciate all you have been teaching me :)

[@wo_ot5958]

Neat stuff. The bio-engineering lab I used to work in had a really tough time figuring out what materials they could use for bioreactors. The cells are really sensitive, and they found that only specific types of metal and tubing wouldn't kill them. A single commercial component was causing failures that they traced to leaching from an internal gasket. I am really interested to see what kind of micro-leaching might happen with different epoxy coats. It is something we never thought of trying. In-theory, If we combined it with in-house additive manufacturing, we could make cheap single use bioreactors. Anyway I am mostly commenting so the youtube algorithm you guys more attention. Cheers!

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks. Your requirements may be more demanding than most. However, it has been a long standing practice to construct low cost marine aquaria with epoxy coated plywood. They work well and last a long time. You may have luck contacting Master bond. This company manufactures high performance epoxies for optical and aerospace applications.

[@OgdenThorntonFamily]

I built a 1000 gallon tank, using the tank water to cool 100W cob grow lights, I was doing 1/2 aquaponics (open loop, no return from tomato plants), and I ended up waterproofing a couple of 10W cob lights and just throwing them in the bottom of the tank. The lights were cooled by the tank, obviously, and facing up. The fish would swim close and cast "shark" shadows on the ceiling. We had wave shadows too. Now when I think of lighting tank, I always remember those lights and the amazing fish shadows.

[@Sophocles13]

That's a really elegant way to cheaply mill surface area into a block. I GUARANTEE whoever came up with it did as a direct result of absently staring at their 1-2-3 block because it's essentially the same! :) I love critical thinkers

[@hotflashfoto]

Well, I commented on your earlier project. What you've done is one of the suggestions that I made over a year after this was published, which was to move the dimmer control away from the tank. What you've also done that I did not suggest was to go with liquid cooling. I have that on my computer. I bought it used that way and had never had it before, but immediately appreciated how quiet and efficient it is. I have a 125-gallon tank that is 6 feet long and 22 inches tall. It's in my front room and I have to use two 300-watt heaters to keep it at 78º F. They're controlled externally. I'm not sure I'd risk my fish by cooling the lamps with their water. And I don't think I'd risk getting all of their detritus inside the cooling loop and clogging it up. At best, I'd consider a water-to-water heat exchanger if I wanted to dump the heat into the tank. But since that adds complexity, I would opt for dumping the heat into the room. After all, that's what I already do for all other heat-producers, such as my computer, TV, LED lights, stove, and refrigerator. A 120mm or 240mm computer radiator is affordable enough and probably has enough capacity to handle the heat. If not, there are larger ones or you could just add more (in series or parallel) as needed. Fans are cheap, too, so I'm sure you could put together a fairly decent-looking solution. Thanks again for taking the time and effort to share your ideas and projects and all of the really neat details on how to put it all together. Keep it up, please!

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks!

[@veb50]

Cover photo looks like Bubbles from Trailer Park Boys

[@lalPOOO]

awesome! love the epoxy inside the block to prevent aluminium leaching!

[@jestronixhanderson9898]

About 5 years ago I ran three led pucks 40w each , they were cooled by CPU water blocks off eBay and then into a radiator, it worked well and provided immense light and they stayed cool. Problem is lots of moving parts, now I just run a heatsink and fans , job done. However for super efficiency u could run a setup where u heat the tank or also u can shift the heat outside your house etc.

[@cobralyoner]

I don’t know why I never thought about water cooling COB LEDs but it finally solved one big problem with space needed to install the LEDs for one of my projects (:

[@swmicro8346]

I like it !! Great eco thinking to re-use the heat ! LED has come on a lot in recent years. But for a permanent install, after testing the principle, I would raise the low part of the cooling pipes to above the base of the tank [has anyone already said this, I have not read all 857 comments !] say to half-way up, just in case cat jumps on pipe and it pulls off, or other gremlin situation. That way the worst that happens is only half the tank is emptied (dont ask how I know :( ),,, and only the led dies.

[@jfieqj]

Your videos and projects are fantastic. Just a friendly word of advice: work on your hooks. You start this video by mentioning something you did a year ago and then... intro animation. It doesn't do much to draw additional interest. Better to give viewers a quick teaser of what to expect in the video, but in a way that leaves them with questions. In the case of your videos, a good hook would usually be the hypothesis about to be investigated or the problem you're going to show how to solve. As a rough example: "Does liquid cooling make it possible to create a light nearly as bright as the sun, using simple parts, for under [X] dollars? Today, we'll find out." Keep up the great content!

[@matjazpovalej4146]

I would advise you to not listen to advice's from just anyone, i don't mean that you ignore it, but my opinion is that you are original personality which you can't find 1 in million of us. Your life should be standard for all to achieve. So why should you seek anyone's attention by becoming more similar to other people who get their likeness by acting something that is fake. I say just listen to your hart and make videos the way that make you proud of it.

[@raymondmucklow3793]

Very cool light, maybe replicate the sun with a stepper motor. Rotate that light throughout the day from one side to the other, I've had tanks since I was 14, I never ben able to do what I want with a tank limited space, however some setups are very cool, the wave simulation heads for salt tanks those are just fantastic. I dig you channel keep up the work, I need to go look at your smoke stick videos it's almost the fourth. videos

[@palpytine]

I see water, but no magnetohydrodynamics... whatever happened to that?

[@turbochargedbrick]

Kevin Wright what do you think is pumping the water so silently?

[@chuckblack2674]

I understand that comments help your mission. This is my meager attempt. I am one of those innately curious tinkerers. I have been disassembling and building things since I can remember. The high point in my childhood was the gift of an A. C. Gilbert Erector Set. It has been seventy years now and I have yet to outgrow that nascent ecstasy of conceptualization followed by the realization of a project. Thank you for reinforcing that lust for learning and applying acquired knowledge. Perhaps I will have some suggestions for future videos.

[@machobunny1]

I am waiting for the follow up showing all the cooked fish floating. That will lead in to the DOHC 427 powered skimmer pump.

[@dancoulson6579]

It's pretty coo. but personally I prefer the blue and pink colored fluorescent lamps. They give such a beautiful color I think.

[@waynechirnside1831]

40,000 lumens! Why not just waterboard them as well? Ah, oh, never mind.

[@positronundervolt4799]

HAHAHA

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

How about actual links in the description to parts used??

[@dbtest117]

I would really like that as am about to rebuild my aquarium lights to something mote robust. And this seems a better way to than the diy perks video of a 1000w equivalent led light with water cooling. And I’m not finding them here in Finland.

[@norvillerodgersspeaks]

Pull up a meanwell catalogue. This stuff is easy to find

[@shroomzgames7370]

@@dbtest117 you can buy the water blocks, tubing, and water cooling rad for pc all from amazon, don't buy led cobs from there though you will be given the cheap Chinese ones, then for cobs look for something made by cree, luminous, Samsung, normally around £20 per cob for a decent one, you need to make sure the spectrum is right also for fish and plants, basically look for anything used in cannabis growing and it will be suitable for fish tank. And finally the driver, meanwell is normally the best but you pay extra for it, other cheaper makes around but they can be fire hazard so choose wisely.

[@dbtest117]

Yes I know about led lights, what I’m really after is that low viscous epoxy. I have leds from yuji, that I’m building with now. But I have previously researched the wave lengths plant needs. And bought such led lights 120W each. However they were built to cheaply and did not last, only one out of 4 still fully functional. And I wasn’t happy with the lights. Lots of red and blue, with to few green. Plants need green also to build healthy stems and roots. They absorb about 70% green compared to the red and blue wavelengths they need for chlorophyll. So now building DIY style with “full” spectrum leds from yuji.

[@shroomzgames7370]

@@dbtest117 for epoxy I would use either gorilla 2-part 5 min clear epoxy, or unibond repair power 5 min epoxy depending on what is available to you, both work well with metal and plastics, both are temperature and water resistant so should be fine over aquariums and high humidity environments, as shown in the video it's best to sand joining surfaces first and the epoxy will have a better hold. And yeah from what I was reading last year they are just clicking on to how important the green light is for plants, previously they only focused on the blue and red spectrums but now green is appearing more in them and higher cri's now, getting as close to sunlight is going to produce a healthier aquarium and plants.

[@gentleandkind]

Another interesting video. Re: camera movements from 15:00, we already know it is a video about aquariums, you don't need the 'dynamic' cameraman to make us feel sea sick, too.

[@ChrisB257]

More great stuff - lots of useful hints and tips on the way along. Your son's idea for inside the block is brilliant. Thanks as always :)

[@eric13hill]

Your example has inspired me to be more productive in my "spare" time.

[@Jrod_FPV]

what i learned and greatly appreciate....... 'INVERTED CUP TECHNIQUE' ! Awesome! keep your epoxy above your other work bench tools and make it easy to access with a toothpick in your hand! brilliant! i'll be using this one for sure!

[@NicoleRiley85]

Well Done. quality production with all pertinent information presented in a timely professional manner. Awesome job, as usual. One of my Favorite Channels Hands down. Bravo...

[@TechIngredients]

Thank you!

[@gammalight1312]

Someone was proposing the use of algea tubes as atmospheric Co2 extractors. The lights could be solar and the excess algea processed into a petroleum alternative. They'd make perfect street lamps!

[@sallesekulic]

look up for desktop CPU water-cooling solutions because there is a reason you do not use "alive" water for small tubing and cooling blocks as growth clogs it soon ....but combination is great for sure ....i like this idea more flies with one stone, but this is the only thing that i'm concerned with in this solution of using thank water .... otherwise brilliant as always :)

[@wobblysauce]

That is closed loop... adding biocides.

[@J0stik]

yes, this is nice idea, nice touch on light, but closed loop would be better because as i have aquarium and when i clean motor on filter it is monthly full of qunk... would not want to clean this heat sink on light .. and as it is closed it would be needed to be with high pressure flush or something like that :D

[@daytrader7]

Pushing the envelope. Some small modifications and this could get very interesting. A+ for original content!

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks! Do you have some suggestions?

[@davidatticus5179]

I will be using a spiral-wound stainless tubing coil that fits inside my tubular shaped tank filters inside diameter perfectly (two small holes drilled and sealed at the filter top cover for entry/exit of tubing). Filled with distilled water and connected to the COB Al block with black opaque plastic aquarium tubing to ensure no algal growth is possible. Additionally, (and likely unnecessarily but, hey, why not?) I will smooth the top of the block and a small fin assembly and attach them together using the high-tech heat transfer epoxy you’ve recommended along with a temp strip monitor for some indication of performance and some protection in a water pump shutdown failure scenario although I suspect the convective motion through the system will be adequate temporary cooling insurance even given the limited stationary water volume of the pump in shutdown mode. Then I will mount a thermistor-switched fan to a mini cooling fan atop the finned water block connected also to a flashing super-bright LED and a PA siren to alert me to a temp rise and then....just kidding on these last bits, I AM a bit OCD (you too?) but not crazy! Well, not too crazy, haha. Great Vid as usual, might make me set up my tank again. This project is ‘doable’ for me, unlike your homemade cyclotrons and fusion reactors, LOL.

[@arkyump]

50 sunblocker for the fish?

[@HeegeMcGee]

Wow, that is a SUPER low profile light fixture! For larger tanks, I think the benefits would justify using a dedicated coolant loop. Now i'm imagining an upgrade to track the light across the tank, ala solar motion across the sky. Same technique with low intensity blue-white light could replicate the lunar cycle, as well. :)

[@TechIngredients]

You're right. A belt driven, synchronous motor driven track like a one axis CNC router (kits on Amazon) controlled by an Arduino...

[@pissycritter]

@@TechIngredients Very good idea, although a DPDT switch mounted to each end could change the polarity of the synch motor and control direction in a more simple/ cost effective way then an arduino. Not sure if those motors can reverse direction with reversal of polarity, but its worth looking into maybe. The sync motors can usually be found in thrown away microwaves that have the rotating cooking trey inside, and the use of a track system would make a single light much more efficient. As to the aquarium light idea, its brilliant first of all, but I was wondering if low viscosity, water potable silicone might be a viable alternative to epoxy? Although epoxy might be the superior option. Also, Thank you very much for the videos! Not only have I learned a great deal from them, but they are very well made and perfect for the type of hair-brained, shoestring-budgeted contraptions and projects Ive been working on.

[@SaccoBelmonte]

The inner epoxy trick was brilliant.

[@k.c.sunshine1934]

Aquarium light plus tropical tank heater all-in-one.

[@evilutionltd]

Nobody: Tech Ingredients: Let's make an unnecessarily bright aquarium light for those fish who live near the sun.

[@SianaGearz]

The conventional watercooling wisdom says that the loop should be enclosed, and free of contaminants. After all you wouldn't want to clog the heat block innards especially if they're inaccessible for servicing. However this is not the kind of heat block PC watercooling wizards usually reason about, as it has a much wider water path and lacks microchannels, so it's not so risky. Still, perhaps running a separate loop, even if you ultimately heatsink it back into the aquarium water reservoir, isn't the worst idea. But you would need an extra pump.

[@thomasneal9291]

no, there is still a major risk of bacterial contamination and clogging. guaranteed, in fact.

[@deshawnmichaelson4161]

Is it just me ? Am I the only one who sees the FAR ore elegant solution ? You pot the light and submerge it and let the water cool it directly.

[@Lttlemoi]

I think that over time that may heat the water too much for the fish.

[@Conservator.]

DeShawn Michaelson 👍

[@ProlificInvention]

I agree, excellent idea.

[@BitterCynical]

You want flowing water so it should at least be by the aquarium pump. Even then you're giving up the metal block that spreads the heat to a larger surface area. Also any exposed conductors have to be insulated to prevent partial shorts and corrosion.

[@ProlificInvention]

They have thermally conductive potting resin (encapsulant) that you could coat the exposed electronics or even the entire device with. I would probably incorporate a small heatsink on the topside to go near the surface of the water. By aiming the filtration output at the heatsink, or a dedicated bubbler the moving water would be sufficient to remove excess heat I would think. I think the OP is correct, I have seen ballasts for HIDs cooled in this manner on a larger scale. www.electrolube.org/products/thermal-conductive/er2183/thermally-conductive-potting-compounds/

[@brinkshows2720]

Hey man, I really love your video's. I found your channel a couple months back when you did the freezer stuff with the peltier elements. I really love how in depth you go into the technologies and take your time to show everything and explain it. Thank you :D

[@TechIngredients]

Sure and thanks for the support!

[@Bob_Adkins]

Mr. Wizard is not dead, he just got more advanced.

[@tomatomoussin9134]

It would be very interesting to put such a led light in a perfect 24’’ DEEP parabolic reflector and see how far the beam shines.

[@user-rk3id2zf8c]

I loved the part when you coated the heatsink. As it was the issue I wanted to address for tank habitants

[@thomasneal9291]

not sure I would trust it frankly. no way to make sure you got a good seal on the metal. though really that tiny bit of aluminum shouldn't be a problem. it tends to oxidize rapidly on the surface.

[@CrimFerret]

Neat concept. Next step, dim it down or add a light pipe defuser like LED TV's do.

[@TechIngredients]

I would rather keep the source small and intense. Like the sun and HID lights, this creats a realistic shimmer that replicates what you see when you dive on a reef.

[@Clobercow1]

It looks like the water makes for great diffused lighting.

[@TechIngredients]

A room lit only by a brightly illuminated aquarium is really nice.

[@shawn9015]

The only problem I potentially see with this is build up in the tubing and the water block of muck, algae, and for any but the softest of waters calcium buildup. Any ideas if you were to do this to keep the system clean? Because Even if you mounted some form of sponge filter at the intake some small particulate is still going to get through. One idea I had that is probably not practical. You could connect the system to a radiator and place the radiator in the aquarium.

[@mandycole21]

Kool desk lamp idea for next to a water cooled computer LOL Also GREAT VIDEO as usually and please KEEP THEM COMING

[@calipete]

Since you're already using the aquarium water to cool the LEDs, have you considered using a solid copper heat sink, sealing the little wire hole, and simply submerging the entire light in the aquarium? That would eliminate surface reflection, avoid algae clogging, and negate any potential plumbing or mechanical failures. You could still use the epoxy coating trick, but instead of having to coat the inside of the tubes, you'll just be coating the outside of the copper block. What do you think?

[@cam3002]

Love your videos and informative style. If you're looking for an idea for new project, then suggest lighted panel that is thin, has some flexibility (can be flush on a mild convex shape), and run on 12 volt automotive system. Keep up the good work.

[@kr4dh4x0r]

This is really cool. I have marine tanks and they're all using LED lighting. I'd like to see you guys do something where you have the other colors in the spectrum available on something like this. The water cooling using the aquarium is pretty good. In Texas, the opposite problem I think happens. It's hot, so we use the a/c to keep the house cold, and the aquarium heaters are on a lot trying to maintain 78* F. If my LED lights were exhausting heat into the tank water then my heaters may not have to work as hard in the summer when we're trying to keep the house cool. Another thing, I think you'd want to exchange heat into the tank water using another radiator and not use the tank water directly. You would likely have to mess with the pump flow to make sure water is in the exchanger long enough to get rid of the heat. You could coat the outside of this exchanger in epoxy just like you did the inside of the water cooling blocks. This closed system could also include it's own reservoir to further enhance it's capacity to absorb heat. Still loving this channel every time you post!

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks! The water cooling is so powerful that almost any flow through the light is enough. You can divert a small fraction of the pump flow to accomplish this. As I discussed in our TEC freezer video, an extremely low cost cooling method is a small ground loop, similar to what a geothermal heat pump uses, but much smaller. , But .uch smLler

[@kr4dh4x0r]

@@TechIngredients Ah yes, I somehow missed the part of one of the videos where you talked about a ground loop. I thought an externally mounted radiator (like I saw you do in a video) would be a good idea too provided that the outdoor temperatures were ideal. I think the reason the water cooling is powerful is because you're using a very large reservoir and it has good surface area to volume ratio for dissipating heat (as you pointed out in the video). What I was saying is that if you had actual tank inhabitants in there, especially in a salt water system, you'd be dealing with stuff getting into your lines and junking up the pumps. For this reason you'd want to run a radiator to "heat" the water, so you could keep the aquarium water out of your nice mechanical parts :D. Thank you for replying. I actually just went and checked out your website to find that it looks like you have some cool plans for the future.

[@invendelirium]

I really prefer slow epoxy, there is a little trick. When you want to cure it - just heat it. Heating to some 60 C speeds up curing time from hours to minutes.

[@thomasneal9291]

why not just use UV epoxy? stays liquid for hours to work with... sets in seconds with UV.

[@invendelirium]

@@thomasneal9291 I do, and I love the stuff. Except, the one I have doesn't stick onto practically anything. It isn't as useless as one might think at first, but still. Also, in many situations, the place to be cured cannot be UV-illuminated for some reason. Then, photocurable stuff is useless. In TechIngredient's video, there is a thin deep gap between Al plates, which may be difficult to properly illuminate all the way through.

[@Coookies24_]

Great project, i might copy this for my workbench lamp. :) As for using this as a room lighting source, shouldn't it be possible to use a DIY vapor chamber / heat pipe to dissipate the heat away from the LEDs to a larger radiator on top, with gravity pulling the condensed water back to the LEDs?

[@TechIngredients]

That should work. Heat pipes are not that expensive, but constructing one could be fun.

[@rustyshakleford5230]

Orthogonal... I love your attention to detail.

[@EdselG]

Just where can I buy these leds, and power supply?

[@michaelyoutube5149]

@@EdselG - he gave a link to the previous LED fish light, in that there was a link to the supplier.

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

I wouldn't wear nitrile gloves when soldering. The temps are hot enough on a soldering iron that you can easily melt most gloves. I just keep cold water at a nearby sink available and burn ointment around.

[@SianaGearz]

I haven't found it possible to melt nitrile gloves with soldering iron. Instead, the material decomposes in-place, discolours and becomes brittle, while maintaining a barrier layer and not being inclined to stick to the skin.

[@nejiniisan1265]

the nitrile gloves are for preventing the hands getting dirty, and to prevent the sweat from the hands to get to the parts you are soldering.

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

@@SianaGearz I suspect that my experience with them is different because my employer at the time claimed they handed me nitrile when they were in fact vinyl, so my initial post was inaccurate.

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

@@nejiniisan1265 Sweat from you hands will not interfere with soldering. The flux from the rosin core in the solder or from a separately applied flux will burn off any sweat or oils you leave on a surface. Immediately before applying thermal past or pads you should clean them with alcohol anyway, so again, no reason for the gloves. I think he was wearing them so that they could get an uncut shot of the assembly using the 5 minute epoxy. Wearing gloves when handling that is a good idea.

[@nejiniisan1265]

@@KnightsWithoutATable indeed. But sometimes is annoying

[@GregAtlas]

I'll have to try and remember that epoxy syringe technique for some of my costume work.

[@loganbyrom9185]

I haven’t even finished watching but is already on of my favorites!

[@joephillips8817]

Awesome! Really appreciate your channel dude. Learned a great deal of information. apart from professional logic and demonstration you also tailor everything in a way which favors all people/class ( like the nearly broke type$ such as myself 😄) cuz lets face it you get what you pay for. Though its cool how you consider cost and realistic factors in a way where the average aspiring joe can do this sorta stuff efficiently! Thanks! Content request for future vid if you feel up for it: Maybe the variables- forces/factors. Of a basic shop vaccum how they convert electrical energy into vaccum and maybe some mods if possible to increase the power( draw~suction) on a basic design.. I had tore apart a little milwaukee 18v battery power shop vac to learn me its inards.. Real simple. Though couldnt really figure how to make it better.. I really enjoy how this channel breaks down the projects as a whole step by step and shares potential options as workarounds yet still focuses on the most practical approach!

[@rocketpoolpki]

fantastic tech innovations with many application possibilities...always a quality upload from Tech Ingredients with a very well explained how and why, thanks guys.

[@mavos1211]

Also would it be possible for you to do a video about yourself? I am sure lots of your subscribers would like to know more about how you got to start your channel and what you did beforehand. Anyway love your channel and thank you for your hard work in producing these videos.

[@ladedk]

It looks awesome! And a great idea to be able to keep the coolingsystem away from the light source. Wonder if the liquid flow could be done without a pump? Not for aquariums, but e.g a desk lamp with passive cooling....

[@TechIngredients]

Thanks! If you are going to use liquid cooling a pump is hard to avoid because it's so effective. If you want to illuminate a desk or a table then this lamp is way overkill and air cooling will be the better answer.

[@CassyMorlock]

How should you keep algae from growing in your tubes though. What about mounting a small radiator inside the tank so the systems are closed to each other; that would solve the heavy metals in your tank, and keep your cooling system clean.

[@TechIngredients]

I haven't found algee to grow in the complete darkness of my aquarium plumbing.

[@gtoluvr9281]

I've been wanting to something very similar but as a spotlight for my boat. I was looking for ways to cool the chip sets inside the original enclosure. I think the blocks and active water cooling are the way to go. Thank you

[@fishyerik]

I've done a super lazy version of that for a couple of years on a few tanks, just pumping the aquarium water through that type of cooling blocks untreated. That's without to me apparent problems, and I'm a quite experienced and successful hobbyist aquarium fish, shrimp, snail and plant breeder/grower. I've been told that the aluminum oxide that forms is fairly stable, and therefore aluminium is fairly safe, for freshwater, assuming fairly close to neutral pH. Now, this coming from you, I have to reevaluate the whole issue of aluminium in contact with aquarium water. Epoxy in the cooling blocks seems great. One of my plans for further development of this was to use the waste heat for a super low capacity water distiller. I was thinking, if you have 50% waste heat, and if you can can use that with 50% efficiency you have 25% of the energy used by the COB as useable heat as long as the light is on. IF those assumptions are roughly correct, according to my calculations you should be able to get about 0.3ml per watt used by the cob, per hour in use. Seems ridiculous perhaps, but 100W run 10 hours a day would make 300 ml distilled water a day, which adds up, and while probably won't revolutionize anyone's life, has potential practical use. I was thinking that the heat should be led to an open water container with isolated sides and bottom, inside a closed but unisolated container, not trying to boil the water, just use temperature difference between the slightly warmer water and surrounding air. I don't know if 50% efficiency is anyway near reasonable, or if you'd need enormous containers/surface areas to make it feasible at all without using a heat pump, and so on.

[@TechIngredients]

The aluminum will be a much bigger problem with salt water. Don't depend on the aluminum oxide layer. For example, if you put an ohm meter to an anodized aluminum surface you will not get any conduction, but if you take a piece of stock aluminum which has been exposed to water or air indefinitely, the conduction is excellent. Anodizing basically generates an aluminum oxide layer, but it is much denser and thicker than the layer produced by oxygen exposure and aluminum oxide is non-conductive.

[@DrTeddyMMM]

This all looks "okay" and is providing a nice, bright illumination. The use of the aquarium water as the cooling source is fine for the moment but unfortunately will be a failure point over time. What safety measures are in place in the event of coolant flow failure? None, which could lead to LED overheating and possibility of fire. A solution could be to incorporate a thermal monitoring system at the lamp fixture, in the event there's an over temperature condition the lamp would be powered off, saving fish and home. Man: (Standing outside while his house is burning down.) Bystander: "What happened here?" Man: "I made a light for my fish..." Bystander: "...so how's that working out for ya?"

[@TechIngredients]

Your suggestion regarding a thermal feedback to a simple switch is a good one. However, fire is not a reasonable threat. The led will fail before the aluminum block could ever become hot enough to ignite the acrylic cover plate.

[@smellycat249]

you make the 2nd most soothing DIY videos. blackhawknlight is number 1

[@demandred1957]

You mean Nighthawk in light

[@nosaltiesandrooshere7488]

👍 Danke fürs Hochladen! 👍 Thanks for uploading! 👍 Very good and beautiful, thank you! 👍 Sehr gut und schön, danke!