4L80E Performance Rebuild PT1: Overview and Subassemblies

I begin the 4L80E rebuild with an overview of the application, parts selection and then assemble the pump, coast clutch drum, OD planet, input shaft, forward drum and direct drum. This video series is rather lengthy, even for a 4L80E rebuild however I show every single step in the process in sufficient level of detail that one can use this video as primary reference for assembling a 4L80E from start to finish. This includes parts selection and procedural mods for street/strip, race and other like-kind high performance applications.
Looking for a stock to mild performance level rebuild video series?
Check out my 1994 4L80E build-up here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYGce6yLrM55rtk

[@Roscotech]

I am using a stock converter and will also be using the factory accumulators/assembly. Really no big changes other than the dual feed for direct (I have the right center support feed hole plugged), the Sonnax no walk rear case bushing w the end play in the rear set to 0.005, the heavy snap ring for intermediate (0.043 clearance), forward is at 0.030, direct at 0.044), Sonnax “O” ringed boost valve and end plug (34200-01K), with the TransGo PR springs/seat (no spacer for this valve), and an input end play at 0.025. Everything turns nice and smooth. I did replace ALL the bushings as well.

[@nickstransmissions]

Good on you for replacing all the bushings, Ross...Many won't due to how much of a pain it is to do so but it's essential for the health of the unit.

[@umakemerandy3669]

Man this is a fantastic video, will be checking the second after

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you for the kind words, @umakemerandy3669! Appreciate your viewership.

[@monkeywrenchization]

I wanted to comment about what I did on a 400 planetary. I used a 350 pump T bearing between the planets. Got the ideas from Kristoforos Kokonis in Gears Magazine. Can't remember all the details, but you need to machine a pocket for the bearing to set in. The article was in March 2016 of Gears Magazine. It would work similar to what you done with the 4 tab washer and shims. I also did the rear case with a roller, and added the Sonnax Fwd clutch. TSR Racing went over my front pump, and installed new gears. I'm building a 1962 Chevy C-10 with a 6.0 (364 Cubic inch), and Turbo 400 setup. I cut one of the ears off a 4L80, and fitted it on to the 400 bellhousing, then TIG welded in place so I can used all the bolts on the 6.0

[@nickstransmissions]

Nice work, Peter. If im not mistaken, Kris still offers machined planets for a bearing and it’s a great upgrade for high performance or heavy tow/haul vehicles. You can actually install the T400 or early 4L80s onto LSx engines without the top bolt being there (you probably know that already but fyi for any one else that may not) As long as the rest are installed and torqued to spec it’s good to go but having the 12o’clock bolt certainly doesn’t hurt. Thanks for sharing!

[@monkeywrenchization]

@@nickstransmissions Here is another trick I learned about installing older trans to an LS. When I bought the 6.0, it had the flywheel, and spacer between flywheel & crank. The 400 converter bolts right up, no drilling holes. For 350, Powerglide, the bolt holes are 120 degrees apart, so any good machine shop could redrill the holes. Any 2001 up LS/ 4L80 combo would have the spacer, & Flywheel. I wouldn't try the 700, or 200 4R, since both are cable operated, hard to get geometry to work right. I have seen guys egg out the holes on a dished flywheel and use TCI spacer, that seems kinda hunky to me. Why go through all that, when GM made the stuff to do it right?

[@davidgonzalez9785]

I will leave out per instructions on the direct drum will remove the lower seal. For dual feed.

[@doctorwebinstein4101]

Awesome video so much information appreciate the content great build !

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks Dr Webinstein!

[@BigFun4Life]

Thank you for making your videos..So informative..

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, Big fun!

[@ZZ-jv9co]

Extremely detailed work Excellent video Keep bringing the videos NICK👍👍

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you, Z Z - will do!

[@hybridmusclegarage4590]

Awesome Man!

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, HMG!

[@mrrobot545]

I like that foot press

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks - I do too but would probably get a bigger one if I was shopping for another...

[@user-bv1sn2wm8l]

Nick, great series on the 4L80e build. You are extremely attentive to detail on these videos! I've rebuilt (2) different 4L80e's in the past year. One of them is in my 2001 Silverado 2500HD with a 6.0L engine. It's working flawlessly. The other one was the first one that I went through. It sat up in my loft waiting for a "LS swap" project that I'm doing in a 1995 GMC Sonoma. Unfortunately, I've now had the transmission back out of this vehicle 2 times. The first time was because the TCC was engaged all of the time. I found out that I had the TCC enable valve installed incorrectly in the pump body. My rooky mistake. When I reassembled it and reinstalled it again, it wouldn't go into reverse or drive. Only the lower 3 forward gears would engage. I could feel a slight "pull" in reverse and drive when they were selected, but very little movement in the vehicle when the RPM's increased. I just removed the pump assembly and the overrun clutch assembly. The planetary assembly would turn in both directions. When I disassembled all of those parts I could find nothing "visibly" wrong with any of them. But here's my dilemma. I could simply remove the planetary assembly off on the bench, then reinstall it doing absolutely nothing else, and it would lock in the clockwise direction just like it's supposed to. The next time I did the exact same thing, and it wouldn't lock in the clockwise direction, making this an intermittent problem. Not being a transmission builder, not having any previous experience with these parts, and not having any other hard parts on hand to compare these with, I ordered a complete overrun clutch assembly with the hub, the sprag and the planetary assembly. The roller clutch is not missing anything, the plastic cage is intact and not broken or melted. The ramps on the hub and the inner bore on the planetary assembly all "look" to be good. But without any service limit specifications in the ATSG manual, how is someone supposed to know when one or more of these parts is bad? To add to all of this, how is a rookie transmission builder like myself supposed to know if bushings and/or the shaft races that ride in those bushings are worn beyond their service limits? What about the inner bores where the seal rings ride? Do "professional" transmission rebuilders simply go by the seat of their pants when inspecting these parts? Is this really all a "by-guess and by-golly" situation? Every engine out there has service wear limits for things like piston crowns, skirts and ring lands, cylinder bores, crankshaft main and rod bearing journals and the list goes on. But not for automatic transmissions?

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, Jeff - appreciate the kind words. Don't worry about trying to determine if things like bushings or one-way clutch assemblies are reusable. Those things get removed and tossed in the trash upon tear down. Nothing is 'seat of the pants' when it comes to rebuilding a transmission and nothing is left to chance. In this video (and all my rebuild intro vids), what do I say must always be replaced? Bushings, one-way clutch assemblies and electrical/electronic parts among other things. I stress it in every intro/overview video for all of my rebuilds...I never re-use that stuff as gambling to save a couple hundred dollars on a build that's running north of $3k or so isn't worth it to me or my customers. That roller assembly you were working with should have been thrown out and a new Borg Warner roller assembly replaced (along with the intermediate sprag and low roller clutch assembly). Plus all bushings... Inspect your sealing ring bores for physically detectible wear. if you can feel grooves, the part is no good and must be either reconditioned (forward drum) or replaced (direct drum).

[@nickstransmissions]

Also don't sweat the rookie mistakes - I've made my fair share, and sometimes still do :) Congrats on tackling your first rebuilds!

[@user-bv1sn2wm8l]

Cool, thanks for the quick reply Nick! So, yes...I did replace all of the sprags and the bushings in these two units that I rebuilt. But, like I mentioned earlier, there must be too much wear with the ramps on the overrun clutch hub (where the sprag sits) or on the bore for the planetary that rides on the sprag. Again...seat of your pants? How much wear on those two parts is acceptable and within specs? (I would attach some photos of those parts here if I could. But they're ordered and on the way.) The ONLY thing that I had for comparison is your videos and those of others who have taken the time to post. My parts "look" like yours and the others, but they're obviously not good causing this intermittent issue with the locking in clockwise rotation. What are the service limit specs and where can they be found? What's the clearance spec for the bushing bores (even when they've been replaced) and the corresponding shaft races that ride in those bushings? I would assume it's somewhere around .002" - .004", but we both know what happens when we assume things! Thanks again brother! Jeff

[@nickstransmissions]

Test bushings by checking for side play...the parts that ride upon the bushings should slide in smooth, snug and spin freely and not have excessive side play...Some transmissions have bushing specs and .001-.002 sounds about right but don't get wrapped around the axle on that stuff...Main thing is to ensure the part spins freely when installed and has just enough clearance to do so. As far as the OD planet, you may have an excessively worn outer race resulting in a slip but it's usually not something that would be intermittent while testing it on the bench. It'd take an incredible amount of strength to 'roll' it while testing for function like that. The cam doesn't really wear as it's not rotating relative to the roller clutch (it is rotating as part of the coast clutch drum but not separately against the roller assembly). The race (and by extension, the OD planetary carrier) rotates in place over the rollers so if something's going to wear, its going to be the rollers on the assembly or the outer race that's pressed into the planetary carrier, not the cam on the drum itself. Let's see what happens when your replacement parts arrive...

[@papergatorzfedducca7998]

Thank you!!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@nickstransmissions]

You’re welcome and thank you for the kind words!

[@Roscotech]

Finally have the barrel of the case assembled as well as a few other items. Now onto the valve body. Wanted to know your opinion on feed hole sizes or if the TransGo recommendations are good.

[@nickstransmissions]

Nice work, Ross - good progress....I cover feed hole sizes in my 4L80E Valve Body Assembly Video and give recommendations that cover stock stall scenarios, including those dual feeding the direct clutch...Here's the link; skip to about 70% the way through (segment is right after I show the vacuum testing on the Sonnax machine): kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIiyoaGgjdxnZ7M Let me know if you have any questions once you've had a chance to view...

[@quarter_bubble_garage4946]

Great videos lots of stuff I didn't know about since I left the transmission industry 18 years ago. Any idea how thick the 12 bolt shims are? I have left over shims from the Sonnax no walk bushing kit and I think they are 10 and 15 thou. and like to use what I have when possible.

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, QBG - appreciate the kind words. They're various thicknesses but .010-.015 what I use mostly.

[@davidgonzalez9785]

Great video. One of the better ones out there. I have a question on the forward drum should I remove the lower seal on the drum. I will be using Extreme Automatic billet valve body trans brake. The car will see a lot of street miles some highway driving to. So do you advise i remove the seal on the forward drum for the use of the brake?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi David, thank your for watching and the feedback. Yes, leave that forward drum seal out as it was incorporated as an "abatement" agent to partition the forward drum so "garage" engagement into drive isnt as harsh....factory HD 4L80s, TH400s and all 475s had no center seal installed in the fwd drums.

[@davidgonzalez9785]

@@nickstransmissions Thanks will do.

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, David.

[@comedians8869]

Hey man, nice work! Great detail in your vids. In your Pt.1 of 4l80E rebuild you went over a series of mods you do to them mostly being in a street / strip application. Would you recommend any of these mods in a plow truck? Where we are, winters are long and we push a ton of snow and it gets very taxing on a “stock” trans over some time eventually leading to the trans slipping or losing everything. Looking for some advice in building one tougher for said application. Thanks man!

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you for the kind words, Comedians! For a plow truck, a few choice upgrades will be sufficient - I'd do the following: 1) Sonnax Boost valve LB4L80 kit w/higher pressure spring plus Sonnax Line-to-Lube pressure regulator valve 2) My lube mods as shown in my 'Lube Mods' video which can be found in my 4L80E playlist (you may have already seen that vid but in case you haven't) 3) Rollerized billet forward clutch hub (Sonnax, TCI and several others make them) - the stock hub is vulnerable in very heavy duty applications 4) Dual feed the direct clutch internally 5) Rollerize the rear case via the TH350 pump bearing, early 4L80E pump body bushing and shims 6) Raybestos stage one or GPZ frictions along with heavy duty wide intermediate band (if your 4L80E is early, you'll need the late 4L80E servo assembly to run the wide band) 7) Sonnax TCC regulator valve and o-ringed bore plugs (lot's of 4L80Es burn up due to bore plugs being worn and losing pressure there) 8) Central Valve Body's oversized AFL valve (no reaming/special tools required, you just take the existing valve out and install the CVBs valve) - factory AFL valves are often worn out, esp in HD applications like plow trucks, etc... 9) Drill the spacer plate feed holes for the 1-2 and the 3-4 another .010 over stock, assess shift firmness then modify from there; drill the 2-3 feed appx .020" more than stock to account for the larger volume of fluid now available in the direct clutch apply circuit and delete the reverse check ball. 10) If your 4L80E is early (91-96), you'll want to upgrade to a 97+ 4L80E direct drum to take advantage of the 34 element HD intermediate sprag as the early 4L80Es use a 14 or 16 element one-way clutch there 11) Wide forward drum bushing available from Omega Machine: sales.omegamachine.com/4L80E_Forward_drum_wider_bushing_p/33438.htm Most of the above individual parts cost less than $20 each; the billet forward hubs run around $175-$200 out the door for a good one.

[@comedians8869]

@@nickstransmissions Thank you so much for the detailed list man, and your response time is legendary! Keep the vids coming!

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, man. Thank you for watching!

[@BigFun4Life]

Nick,when dual feeding 97 up 4l80e dose the forward pressed in inner lip seal stay or go..?Nobody really talks about removing it or pressing in a new one..I know the direct one is removed when dual feeding..Any info will be much appreciated,Thanks for sharing your knowledge..

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi BigFun, if you're referring to the forward drum seal, then you can leave it alone....GM put that seal there to soften engagement into drive from park or reverse and so was carried forward from the TH400...I touch on it in a one or two TH400 videos and thought I addressed it in the 4L80E vids but perhaps not.

[@BigFun4Life]

@@nickstransmissions thanks again..

[@Simple_Youtube]

Hello, great videoa as always. Is your shop is located in California??

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you very much, man! I'm not in Cali.

[@christophersanders5007]

I have a question. I am rebuilding an early model 4L80E. I did the switch out of the plastic shim on the rear planetary output for the 4-tab babbitt washer. The babbitt washer was the exact same thickness as the plastic washer, but I did not install any shims with that babbitt washer like you show. I can take this back apart and install the shims. Should I bother to do that? This is for a heavy crew cab 4-wheel drive truck. My rear output end play currently measures at 10-thousands.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hey Christopher, it’s up to you if you want to install the shims but it’s generally not as critical for lower RPM applications like it is for high rpm/high performance. If your rear end play is .010, shoot for .015-.018 for front end play. You generally want about .004-.008 more front end play than rear end play.

[@christophersanders5007]

@@nickstransmissions That was a fast reply. Since I rollorized my output I would have to take out the shim that is under the roller bearing, which would leave no shim at all under the roller bearing in order to get more endplay. Thanks for the reply.

[@nickstransmissions]

You’re welcome. No need to remove the shim unless it’s necessary, just use the appropriate thickness selective pump washer on the pump stator to set your front end play. So if current rear end play is .010, you want .015 or so for the front.

[@christophersanders5007]

@@nickstransmissions Yes, that is what I was thinking. There are a lot more washer thickness to choose from for the input than in the rear output.

[@andrewcastillo7710]

What brand Teflon resizing tool are you using? Could you post a link if you remember.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Andrew, thank you for watching! The tool used to resize the center support sealing rings is a Kent Moore tool - I believe I show/share the specific Kent Moore tool number it in the video. The sizing tool used for the input shaft sealing rings was purchased off eBay several years ago but you don't actually need them...Check out my '200-4R' special tools video where I show a much cheaper and frankly, more effective alternative for sealing ring resizing - will work with pretty much any transmission regardless of ring diameter as long as you have a big enough hose clamp...So you really don't need to spend money on any special resizing tools.... Here's the link - skip to the last 1/3rd of the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpeYh2l3hKZ0f5o

[@steveb4762]

Doing my first 96 model and have a question on apply pistons: Do you use the originals or convert to bonded? Anything else you do on these early ones? Thanks!

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Steve, depends on the application....For stock or mild performance, you don't need to upgrade/convert to bonded pistons...At minimum, all my 4L80Es get the following upgrades: Sonnax LB1-4L80E, their 1-2 and 2-3 shift valve springs, TCC reg valve kit, rollerize rear of the case and spacer plate clutch feed orifices opened up per application/converter stall, if necessary. These transmissions are really stout as-is and don't require much to make them even more reliable for stock or mild performance use. I'll have a 'basic build' series on the 4L80E in a couple weeks as I'm going through one as we speak and it's just a stock level application/vehicle.

[@steveb4762]

Got the trans tore down and the forwards were toast. The forward piston seal was blown out in a small section that caused it. Guess that enforces the question for bonded pistons? Got pics if interested.

[@nickstransmissions]

The lip seal was cut/blown out or the piston itself was cracked? Lip seals on any piston can get cut or blown out for any number of reasons. You need to find out those reasons that are applicable to that particular drum. Closely check the inner diameter for deep sealing ring grooves. Very common for those and when it gets bad enough, forwards burn up, clearance massively increases and the piston's travel goes beyond the sealing cavity. Can happen to bonded pistons also... You can run the bonded pistons if you'd prefer as they certainly wouldn't hurt though real high perf 4L80s feature billet aluminum fwd and dir pistons with traditional lip seals.

[@keefebrothersgarage384]

Nick, What Brand is that billet steel hub?

[@nickstransmissions]

I believe that came from CK performance as I buy a lot of stuff from him but it was purchased a while back so can't recall for sure.

[@user-bv1sn2wm8l]

Nick, I just wanted to add another comment. On both of the (2) 4L80e rebuilds that I've done I also used the Sonnex HP-4L80E-01 upgrade kits. These kits are very extensive with multiple different segments. (The PDF version of the instructions is available on-line) I've followed the directions to the letter on both of them. When doing the dual feed modification on the direct clutch in this case, Sonnex only removes the second sealing ring on the center support. They also have you plug the right-side reverse hole in the case for the center support just like you have done. But what they do not have you do is remove the inner lip seal for the direct clutch piston, nor do they have you drill a .060" hole in the direct clutch housing. Do you have any comments on this? Why does Sonnex omit those two steps? I've noticed that my reverse engagement on my 2001 Silverado is delayed. If I left out the reverse check ball would that delay go away? Thanks again! Jeff

[@nickstransmissions]

Ive used the entire kits in the past but found that there's only a few things I use and can get them individually at a lesser aggregate cost than buying the entire kit. The .050-.065 bleed hole is for high RPMs (5500+) in full race or street strip where engines are making in excess of 550-600 hp. You can leave the seal in or take it out...I always leave it out as I want fluid to flood that entire cavity underneath the piston at the same time/rate. The drum seal partitions the cavity so you may get differentiating fill rates but the comparison is prob immaterial. Check your low reverse servo travel...Should be between .075-.125 inches as measured from the top of the piston to the top of the case deck surface between the two rear-most LR cover bolt holes. If you have well in excess of .125 that would explain your delayed engagements...Also make sure you have drilled your direct clutch feed appropriately, given that you're dual feeding.

[@user-bv1sn2wm8l]

Thanks for the info. So, I just went over the Sonnex instructions for this kit again. That's because I don't remember any "drilling" instructions for the direct clutch dual feed. I am correct...when using option #2 for the reverse feed block-off, there are no instructions in the Sonnex HP-4L80E-01 kit for drilling relating to the direct clutch dual feed. I opted for option #2. I will definitely check the travel for the reverse servo travel though. Here is the portion of those instructions relating to the direct clutch dual feed: 6. Direct Clutch Dual Feed Modifications Do NOT install second sealing ring on center support, (Figure 26, page 9). NOTE: Blocking feed to the reverse side of direct piston can be done at either of two locations depending on builder preference. • OPTION 1: Use Sonnax small aluminum plug in the separator plate (Figure 12). • OPTION 2: Use Sonnax steel cup plug in the center support (Figure 26, page 9). Option 1 (Figure 12) a. Drill feed hole with Sonnax provided .062" drill bit. b. With Sonnax provided .086" drill bit create a very slight chamfer on both sides of plate. c. Insert Sonnax aluminum plug into hole and with a hammer lightly peen on both sides to secure plug in place. Option 2 (Figure 26, Page 9) Install Sonnax cup plug center support feed passage. The only other drilling in these instructions is for the valve body separator plate for the shifts.

[@nickstransmissions]

I never drill and plug the high reverse feed port in the plate or modify the center support itself (some like to put a check ball in that passage). You can do it and it's perfectly fine as long as it's done correctly but it's not the approach I take...My preference is to use the 3/8" cup plug in the case w/red Loctite to block off the high reverse passage which would be 'Option 3' if they included it in their instructions. And to be clear - I'm not giving you Sonnax's instructions or following them for the dual feed procedure so if that's a point of confusion, allow me to clarify...The instructions I'm giving when drilling the direct drum are my instructions, not anyone else's though many builders do the same thing for high performance...So you won't find it in any literature from Sonnax or any other performance parts manufacturer that I'm aware of. And only drill that bleed hole for when engines are making in excess of 550HP in racing applications. Otherwise, just installing the high rate return springs in the intermediate and direct clutch packs are sufficient to prevent centrifugal apply when driving through the direct clutch in first and second gear.

[@dennisalstonZ06]

Do you have the part number for the kits that your use .

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Dennis, I don't have a single part number as I buy most of the high performance stuff a la carte but if you go to eBay and search 4L80E Stage 1 (or 2 or 3) kit, you'll get results for all encompassing kits that include Alto Red frictions, Kolene steel plates, all bushings, both bands, filter and paper/rubber all in one package. Some will also include the three one-way clutch assemblies which all need to be replaced.

[@steveb4762]

Hey bud, when I've done the dual feed process, there's a delay in reverse engagement. Is that common and if so what's the work-around? I haven't watched all of your 80e videos yet.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hey man, yes - leave the low reverse check ball out of the case - that should speed it up (and firm it as well)...I show that in either the last or second to last video in that 4L80E rebuild series so you probably haven't gotten to it yet.

[@steveb4762]

@@nickstransmissions Reading that removing that ball in a totally stock build and convertor will have harsh reverse engagement and drilling the relief hole is better. What I can't seem to find is size to drill to. Do you ever drill the plate for this?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi@@steveb4762 , can you link to the sources from where you're reading? Just want to have the broader context before I respond to the above...thx

[@steveb4762]

From a long time professional builder on a forum. Is also the moderator. “when doing the dual feed you need to open the reverse feed hole to. 093" or leave out the ball but it gets a bit harsh on engagement.”

[@nickstransmissions]

@@steveb4762 It's very subjective but if you'd prefer a softer engagement, leave the ball in and feed orifice for L/R unmodified. If you'd prefer a firmer engagement, leave the ball out...Either way, both the direct clutch and l/r band have to be fully applied before you're actually in reverse and since you're routing all apply fluid through a single point of entry, it will take a split second longer for direct clutch to be fully applied in reverse and in 3rd gear. So you compensate by either blocking the 2-3 accumulator off or drilling the 2-3 feed larger (or both, in the case of higher stall applications like this one). Would be curious to have the forum/thread link but if you don't have it readily available, no worries at all.

[@user-ee4rw1es5f]

Building a 4l80e to put in a square body chevy with a 6.0 what is the must upgrades to do?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Chris, thank you for watching...Honestly, not much beyond what is already stock for those assuming your 6.0L is going to be kept stock. If you're 4L80E is a later model (97+) with the center-feed return cooler line in the middle of the case, the only things you really need to do are as follows: 1. Rollerize the rear case (shown in this video series) 2. Heavy duty intermediate clutch snap ring (I use a Chrysler 46RE direct clutch snap ring; there's different thickness but I usually end up with a .077 thick to .098 thick snap ring with the right clutch clearance) 3. Lube mods - see my lube mods video for details: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKuVeKuIeZhpla8 4. Sonnax 4L80-LB1 boost valve kit, TCC regulator valve and 1-2/2-3 shift valve springs Otherwise just assemble it following proper procedures.

[@user-ee4rw1es5f]

@@nickstransmissions thanks man for the answer, I do have a few more questions. One when I do the lube model do I have to do the upgraded heavy duty springs, two what is the brand and that of the assembly lube u use with the brush. Three you said u would go bigger on the foot press like which brand u was looking at I'm looking to get all the tools and that this is my first build and four any recommended tools that is need to rebuild a 4l80e. Thanks again man

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, man...High rate return springs are for when you are going to be turning at more than 5000 RPMs racing or similar; drilling that small addl bleed hole in the direct drum is along the same lines (high RPM only). Tools-wise, make sure you have a shop press...If you're only going to do one or two transmissions, you may not want to spend an additional $400-$800 on a foot press (you can get vise-mounted spring compressors for a lot less). My foot press was purchased from a customer of mine years ago and have no idea what brand it is but it was made here in the US and is a good press...But if I had to choose between it and a shop press, I pick the shop press every time.

[@steveb4762]

Why do you replace all electronics if they test good? Isn't it possible to introduce bad new parts?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Steve, I never re-use electronics, found out the hard way very early on that it's a bad idea... The likelihood of a solenoid with 100-200k miles on it failing shortly after rebuild is several orders of magnitude higher than one being bad out of the box or failing shortly after rebuild...Plus I test all electronic components before installation to catch any that are, in fact, no good...It happens from time to time with OEM or Rostra brand parts but it is extremely rare... For example, I can count on my hand the number of bad shift solenoids for a 4L60e or 4L80e that I caught in 10+ years of building those transmissions. Thank you for watching!

[@1959nickd]

forward drum snap ring from a 47 48 re

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Nick, thanks for watching (from one Nick to another)...Are you asking if you can use that snap ring in the intermediate clutch or simply stating as such? If asking, then yes - you can as it's the same diameter/dimensions as the direct clutch snap rings (they all vary in thickness)...

[@1959nickd]

@@nickstransmissions the snap ring you are referring to is from the forward drum in a 47re not the direct. The direct drum snap ring was a wave ring all though you can put a solid ring in there

[@nickstransmissions]

I'm referring to the direct clutch snap ring which is interchangeable with the forward clutch snap ring and it can be from a 727, A518, A618, etc. Transtar and others sell them as Forward/Direct clutch snap rings of various thicknesses...here's an example from PATC: transmissioncenter.net/shop/727-a518-forward-direct-clutch-snap-ring-106/

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Nick, I would like to apologize to you about the 47RE direct clutch snap ring...You are correct, and I was wrong...I just tore apart a 47RE and the direct clutch snap ring is indeed wavy. I make mention of this as well in the tear down video, which will be published in a few weeks or so...Anyways, wanted to close the loop and thank you for the correction.

[@1959nickd]

@@nickstransmissions thanks no biggie just trying to help out

[@darryncox6209]

How much would you charge to build one light that one ?? I have a 2000 transmission

[@nickstransmissions]

Builds similar to what you see in the video can range anywhere from $3000-$4500, depending on parts selection, etc. Thank you for watching!

[@bobborinstein9560]

Can you supply your business website url, please. Also city location. Thanks

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Bob, if you're asking me I don't give out my location here on KZbin...If you'd like to reach out directly about a rebuild, you can reach me on Tahoeyukonforum.com (my user name is NickTransmissions).

[@FrostyBravo]

if you measured those sizing tools with a caliper i could 3d print them for wicked cheap lol i need a nice .stl file. im gonna make the 4th gear out of wood but it would be easier to 3d print with my cr10

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks for watching, FrostyBravo! I'm actually working with a buddy to do same; if things come to fruition, I'll be making one or more vids about them and having them available for folks to purchase.

[@louisovalasiti6481]

You are joking right?

[@nickstransmissions]

Louis - disregard my reply...sorry for any confusion.

[@louisovalasiti6481]

@@nickstransmissions wasn't worried about what you said bud it just you would have to be careful about plastic parts if you scratch it with metal and the plastic shavings get into parts you might not get as good of performance as you would otherwise

[@nickstransmissions]

True. I prefer aluminum sizers all other things equal. You can also use hose clamps with strips of 1/8" thick rubber to size the rings...The rubber does a great job protecting the rings from any damage. Any 3D printed surface would have to be sufficiently robust and smooth to avoid any potential issues on sizing.

[@ja1971chevelle]

Doesn't removing the seals stop lock up

[@nickstransmissions]

What seals are you referring to?

[@ja1971chevelle]

The seal in the direct drum

[@nickstransmissions]

Where did you get that information or who told you that was the case?

[@ja1971chevelle]

Richard from the old videos when it was "Precision transmission". Im just here to learn. Im wanting to swap a very build 4l80e in my 08 silverado.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hmmm...Interesting.. I'm not sure why he mentioned that or perhaps something got lost in translation but no, dual feeding the direct clutch wont defeat your tcc lock up; it will still lock up in 3rd per factory tcc apply strategy assuming the tcc circuit and converter clutch (mechanical and electric/electronic) are all healthy. The primary consideration when dual feeding is 3rd feed hole size in the spacer plate. You want to make sure you drill it out a bit bigger as the additional volume in that chamber under the direct clutch piston acts like a second accumulator. Most of the time I use a block off plate for the 2-3 and 3-4 accumulator locations on the valve body to offset that addl accumulation effect.