What problems do you think are not being corrected?

Hi Brent, thank you for watching. There are no seals from the factory for those two locations however Transgo includes them in their shift kits so that's what you're probably seeing...You don't necessarily need them but if you want new ones, the only place I know of that has them is that shift kit (SK4L80E). If you're doing anything performance oriented, I'd dual feed the direct clutch internally...The process is simple: 1. Leave the lip seal out of the direct drum (drill a .050-.065 bleed hole in the outer perimeter of the drum just inside the piston outer seal's area to prevent centrifugal apply at high RPM) 2. Leave the 2nd from top sealing ring off the center support 3. Plug the high reverse feed passage in the case using a 3/8" cup plug (I always use either RTV or red loctite on the cup plug).

Awesome thank you for your help.

You're welcome, Brent!

Hi Jay, do you have the ATSG manual for these transmissions? If not, I'd recommend you grab it as some of the variations/differences and engineering changes are discussed in that manual...You don't need the wavy plate in the direct clutch, most of the time I leave it out and machine the piston for an addl flat steel and friction. The pump torrington bearing was introduced in the mid-70s (76-78 timeframe) - anything prior would have had the tabbed selective washer...You only install one, not both. If you have a pressure sensor on the VB you prob have a TH350C unless someone retroed a TH350C VB onto a non-lock up case...TH350 non-lock ups were in prod from 69-79 and the lock up TH350C was in prod from 1978 (or 77) to 1984 or 85...

⁠@@nickstransmissions my Torrington bearing on the pump doesn’t have the spacer behind it that yours does though but it does have the added seals and that sleeve thing, and also the first planetary you remove mine has the flat tabbed washer instead of Torrington like yours, thinking my transmission is frankensteined a bit? I notice the wave plate is gone but didn’t notice an added friction plate on the direct drive

@jay-kobdavis7724 Think you're referring to the selective shim behind the bearing...The presence of absence of those shims depends on how the unit's front end play was adjusted. Sometimes they arent needed but most of the time one shim is required to get end play within spec. Later 350s had torrington bearings on the front planet...

I lied it does have an added flat steel and friction disc

@@nickstransmissionsthanks for all the input, from what I found this unknown transmission was fine when pulled! Still going to put new clutches seals bearing etc and a shift kit, very helpful video thank you!

Tip thing? What is the part's designation per the ATSG manual? Are you referring to the selective band-style spacer that's used to set OD Section-to-Case travel?

Sounds like pump failure but check your level before and after starting..If it's way over the max and doesn't change once fired up, time to yank and overhaul the transmission (see my rebuild series on these units for guidance).

Thanks, HMG!

Same here. I stopped my 6l80 build waiting for this hoping he would do one.

Hi Frank, thank you for watching...Why can't you obtain the parts mentioned in the video? Anyone can purchase those parts from a variety of sources/suppliers including Transpartswarehouse.com, WIT Transmissions Performance, Transtar, Natpro, etc.

Thank you for the kind words and views, Rod!!! Agree, I don't like music or silly graphics/memes or other artifacts in otherwise 'How-to' videos. You can support me via sending a 'Super-thanks' directly from KZbin, if you'd like....Look for the 'Thanks' Icon just below the video on the screen and click it to send a 'Thank you' donation. Any support is greatly appreciated!

Check your case sealing surfaces for the three seals on the low reverse piston for any moderate to severe scoring or other defects...If you have such scoring (and you can't smooth it out quickly/completely with sand paper or emery cloth), gouge marks, etc then I'd find another case.

Thanks for the view, subscription and kind words, Tommiegunz! Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family as well!

Hi Jim, it's in there - you can see the modulator check ball in the case at the very beginning of this video...Unfortunately, I either didn't film myself putting it there or it's somewhere else in the video (I filmed this series nearly two years ago so going from memory). I will be filming another TH350 complete rebuild that will cover some of these missed/under-addressed aspects of that video series in the near future.

You don't really need it..Just take your air nozzle, put a one-two inch vacuum hose with a blow-tip on the end and use that to test the forward, intermediate and direct clutch circuits through the case once it's fully assembled but before you put anything on the belly of the case.

Hi Chris, search Transpartswarehouse.com to obtain product dimension/physical information...They almost always provide dimensions for things like frictions, steels, backing plates, snap rings, etc. Here's their website: transpartswarehouse.com/

Thanks, Tim!

Thank you for watching, Cristifer!

Hi Scotty, I would as he includes pretty much everything you need to rebuild your 4L80E including the billet steel input shaft, sun gear shaft, hub and 34 element intermediate sprag. Just pick the kit that corresponds with your year 4L80E and go...They've been pretty quick with shipping lately as well..

Thanks for the kind words, Rod! Don't forget to sub and check out my 4L60E rebuild series and high performance series as well if you're doing anything performance-oriented with your rebuild.

Hi Ice, just replace your existing wiring harness with a Rostra harness for late 700R4s and, assuming your 92 vehicle is factory (no computer mods or carb swaps) then just plug and play with that harness and you'll have TCC lock up as required.

Hey, Nick, I have a 91 model transmission. Is that the same Wiring harness or a different one. Transmissions go on in a sixty six chevy pick up with a 327.

It's the 2-3 feed, as in the feed circuit that gives you 3rd gear oil when upshifting from 2nd to 3rd gear...I could just as easily call it the 3-4 feed as in '3-4 clutch pack' but I normally use the term 2-3 feed, which is how most manuals as well as shift kit instructions refer to that circuit as well. Hope that clears things up...

Thank you for watching, Swathdiver! Greatly appreciate the kind words, man. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family.

@@nickstransmissions Back at ya Nick!

Yep, absolutely correct Peter...Ford and ZF took things a step further with the Lepelletier planetary system which connected a Simpson gear set to a Ravigneax gear set but these units keep the Simpson set divorced from the Ravigneaux.

Thanks, Brewmaster!

Thanks for the kind words, John! I like those gloves...gives you just enough dexterity while letting you do everything from tearing a transmission down to handling / moving things without tearing your latex gloves....Harbor Freight sells them for $2/pair...They also sell those black latex 9mil thick gloves - they're ok but like to tear between the thumb and index finger, especially in the summer....Hot months I actually wear the 5mil gloves that don't split as much in that area when it's hot.

Yep, those are interchangeable..Thanks for watching, Dale!

Thanks, HMG!

You're welcome, Derek! Thank you for watching, man.

Thanks, Greg!!

Maybe, maybe not ... Shop around, see if others are charging a similar amount or not for the same service.

@@nickstransmissions they were pretty fast so came in around $620 so much better.

Ha - was my exact thoughts pretty much the entire first year working on transmissions...I will be publishing a complete rebuild series on this unit to the channel starting later this week...It may help with your understanding, or only further bewilder you lol! Thanks for watching, man.

Yes - that valve body in the video had shift kit parts installed in addition to the Sonnax valve.

Thank you, Chris!

@ by Chance did you see my other comment reply for the plate

Yea, was a retarded configuration...Thank you for the check ball in the gov tip - will try that if/when I get one of those real early units in...

@@nickstransmissions That ball trick works on a C6 too. Ford had a good idea by returning the cooler to the rear of the case, and lube from rear. Hydromatic always had the cooler lines side by side, taking the hot oil, and returning back to same hot spot. The 4L80 was the only one to return oil to center support.

Sweet, thanks again Peter...Will try it there as well...May have another C6 coming in soon.

Hi Chris, it's hard to say without knowing your feed hole sizes for the 2-3 feed, band rel and exhaust as well as 3-4 clutch clearance & what 2nd gear servo you have installed. If you reply with those numbers, I can give my opinion...

@ has vette servo 1/2 hole is .080 2-3 .110 3-4 .110 3-4 accumulator delete has boost valve TCC valve blocked to make it on/off system I don’t remember if I drilled band release and exhaust

The band release hole is the most critical part of the 2-3 shift calibration in the context of your question...Find out exactly what you did with that orifice and let me know...

What is your 3-4 clutch pack clearance?

@@nickstransmissions the 3-4 clearance not sure it’s the stock stack up 5 kolean steels and 6 alto red frictions I put it on 3rd manual and dig it it’s got no slip 2nd as well just when it shifts out to 3rd

They can be built to handle it...You'll need billet forward drum/input shaft and direct drums/stub shaft kits along with the usual upgraded hydraulics, appropriate clutch and steel modules, etc along with a tune. Depending on the truck's final drive ratio, you may or may not have to install an AOD gear set to heighten the ratios relative to the 4R75's wider, deeper ratio between 1st and 2nd gear. Check with BTS, ATS, RevMax, MTS Performance; there may be others but those folks come to mind off the top of my head.

@nickstransmissions awesome thanks for your response

You're welcome, Javier.

Hi Tom, thank you for the kind words. Unfortunately, no - nothing 2009+ is compatible with 2008 and back when it comes to valve bodies...Check out my video on 4L60E Interchange Rules for the details: kzbin.info/www/bejne/apyoq5qcm9acbdk Why not rebuild your 2008 unit? You don't need very many special tools; in fact you'd probably spend about the same amount in tooling as you would a used 4L60E which is a big gamble in the first place...

I have a 2012. 3rd and 4th non functional. Seems to be number 1 issue on these units. I came Across a low kms 2008. Didn't know it was 2008 until I saw 13 pin connector. Thank you for video clarifying cases are different. Is the 2008 useless in this situation? Trying to save money here. Hard times

Yes, the 2008 is basically useless for what you're trying to do. You need a 2009+ with the correct bell housing for your engine application. I get what you're saying about trying to save money but the majority of the time, used transmissions cost you MORE money as you're paying for the used unit, plus fluid and the time you spend installing it plus the cost of the inevitable rebuild due to 3-4 clutch pack failure shortly down the road, along with the R/R fluid costs...I can't tell you how many 'used' 4L60Es I have rebuilt over the years from customers whose replacement transmissions lasted all of a few months or so before they crapped out.

Oh...I am confused. The transmissions 2012 and 2008 sitting side by side are identical. The only difference is the 2012 has 17 pin plug receiver. And the other one in question has 13 pin plug reciever

Try swapping it and see what happens....Your wiring harness and internal mode switch will also have to come over - those should install without issue though you'll need the special tool to collapse the locking tabs at the connector bore to safely remove the harness from the case (or simply buy a new harness for the replacement unit). ETA - external appearance does not equal compatibility (at least not without some adaptation) when it comes to transmissions, though in this case you pointed out a difference between them...The difference you cited above is central to whether or not they are actually interchangeable as-is.

Thanks, Arlos - You may have to remove the bridge seal under the valve body but I can't say for sure as I never tried to remove just the pump without taking everything off the belly of the case prior to doing so...

Hi Brewmaster, thanks for watching. My thought is I'd need a lot more information about what you did, including whether or not you replaced the TEHCM with a new one (if so, did you program it for your vehicle?), clutch clearances for all clutch packs (don't know if your clearances are too tight or not w/out that info), fast adapt relearn conducted, whether or not the manual valve was engaged to the rooster comb, etc... In the meantime, unplug the case connector in the back of the transmission, start it up and put it into reverse and then drive...If it goes into reverse (moves backwards) when in Reverse and moves forward in Drive (you'll be in 3rd gear), the problem is somewhere on the case belly...If you're still moving forward with the gear shifter in reverse, you either failed to connect the manual valve/IMS to the rooster comb or misassembled something in the case. Let me know and we can go from there.

@ did not replace techm. Clutch clearance could be an issue. Truck will not start with tranny unplugged. No wierd noises. I will check rooster comb linkage. But don’t believe that’s it. It shifts into and out of 4wd hi and low in neutral (still same issue) forward while in reverse. Thanks for responding. If you have any ideas from what I replied, please let me know

Ah, that's right - the IMS sends the P/N signal directly to the PCM whereas in the 4L60Es and 4L80Es, its a purely electrical connection vs electronic. My apologies. What were your clutch clearances?

@ I didn’t measure. I should have. If any are too tight, could that cause issue I’m having. It would have to be any of those not applied in reverse, right. I know it’s not a lot of info for you.

I'm thinking the unit has to come back out so you can perform a thorough inspection of everything in the case as well as VB...Drop the pan first to check for anything obvious like no rooster comb to manual valve engagement (and to drain the fluid) but I'd not get my hopes up on a quick fix here... Take clutch clearance measurements - use the assembled pump to check the front three clutch packs - mount a dial indicator and take measurements at the 3, 6, 9 and 12 o clock positions on each then calculate an avg clearance - write it down. Do the same for the low reverse and 2-6 clutch. Check sprag rotation and bearing placement along with everything else...

Hi HRP - I don't see why not...I use these servos all the time in SS/full race applications...

@nickstransmissions I appreciate it, I used it once and my transmission kept breaking hard parts. Builder said it was due to the super hold servo, but I'm going to start building my own. Been watching a lot of your videos

Gotcha...I'm thinking you may have either had too much band clearance or (more likely) had the 1-2 shift mechanically calibrated way too aggressively for the larger ratio 2nd gear servo. If running the Sonnax super hold servo (or the Superior Tech servo) and your stall is factory, do NOT drill the 1-2 feed or change the spring set up in either the accumulator regulator valve or 1-2 accumulator housing...Leave everything 'as-is' (I'd run a Corvette Servo if your stall speed is 1600-2800, to be honest). If your stall is 4400 as mentioned above, I'd drill the 1-2 feed to .076 and leave the acc reg valve and install a Sonnax pinless accumulator piston in the 1-2 accumulator housing...See how that feels then enlarge the 1-2 feed orifice in the plate as needed...

Does it in drive or reverse

Hi Chad, thanks for watching...That sounds like pump cavitation or something failing in the front of the case (forward, direct drums, front planet failure, etc)...Check fluid level if you haven't already...Too little or too much is equally bad...

It happened after I did the lead frame and I think it was just low on fluid because it went always after 2 more quarts. But this time nothing seams to stop the noise. It’s almost more of a woodpecker sound. You can only hear it at parking lot speed or sitting still.

I’ve tried checking the fluid level at operation temperature but I never get a clean reading cause the dipstick has fluid splashed all over it

Awesome, man. Glad those videos were able to help you with your TH350...Thank you for watching, Angel!

Thank you, Austin! Appreciate the support.

You're welcome, man - thank you for watching!

Hi Sandy, Yes - if you damaged the seal, it will show up in an air check as a consistent, steady hissing sound usually accompanied by markedly slow apply of that piston to the low reverse clutch pack. In fact, it's one of the most reliable clutch packs to air test since, when you put some pressure on your air nozzle into the LR feed and put air, the piston will apply and no hissing should be coming from that circuit at all.

Thanks for watching, Javier...You can either leave the shift kit in place or dual feed the direct clutch internally but not both.

@@nickstransmissions I will like to do the internal dual feed but I only have b&m plate l don’t have the stock plate can use plate I have just remove the 2 transfer plates and do 5 clutch remove the seal and block the feed hole at the case?

Thanks, Leonard! Appreciate the kind words man. I blame YT...I'm not sure why YT doesn't do more to push my channel, haha.

Did I not mention something to that affect in this video or are you trying to say something else?

@@nickstransmissions there are two sources of speed, engine speed and the Input Shaft speed, even if the sensor which you mentioned was bad, it would trigger error for TCM that speeds are not match

Yea I get all that but it's not what I asked you. What did you mean by your initial comment about "not a good professional"?

@@nickstransmissions you do your work for long time, but after that video, which I've seen only, I had strong feeling that you understand transmission not as part of car which work all together with other systems but separate part, it means even aftet those 15 years you understand it wrong

Lol, I hope you aren't making any major decisions based on those so called "strong feelings", given how wrong you are in this case. I know I addressed the diag/lack of PCM scanning issues in this video, specifically to avoid having to deal with dumbass comments like yours but guess you had to post that crap anyway. Maybe you weren't paying attention... Additionally, if you had been paying any attention at all, you would have seen this unit has no TSS so not sure why you even mentioned it. You trolls are all the same. Don't bother responding.