4R100 Rebuild

2004 Ford F550 Super Duty Sonnax bore sizing tool #36948-12
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransm...
Transtar: www.transtar1....
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fi...
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource...

[@InDepthExcavationCompanyLLCpa]

Thanks for the straight forward video ! Great job.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks, thanks for watching.

[@jakeritter9847]

Do you have any videos on removing the stator from the pump I’m stuck on that.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

No I don't, sorry. I don't remove the shaft from the body. If any part of it is bad I replace the whole thing.

[@machupicchu9395]

Hi, just finished the 95 e350 e4od rebuild The issue I'm having is that the output shaft is very hard to turn or cannot turn it at all......don't want to force it... I took it apart everything fine inside, output shaft turn nice until I install the center support....and torque the two 13mm feed bolts Any ideas on whether this is normal or not, and what the problem might be? thanks in advance

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Rear end play is measured through the hole in the center support, should be .032-.081. Have you changed any parts in it? There are several different steels for the intermediates, did you change those?

[@machupicchu9395]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hi, Only changed the clutches and sealing rings..... steels and everything else remain the same. thanks for getting back on this.

[@SEVEREDxAPPENDAGE]

Don’t the valve bodies have to be torqued to a specific spec? From literally every other video I’ve seen they are very specific

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Yes. The pump is prone to cross leaks and the case as well. Most people tend to over tighten the center support bolts warping the case. Just because you don't see me using a torque wrench does not mean I don't. I find it boring to watch every single bolt being tightened.

[@SEVEREDxAPPENDAGE]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I used your video to rebuild my transmission, for future reference you should tell people that if they are planning on using your video as a reference to rebuild the 4r100 what to torque the bolts to. I got the proper spec beforehand so I’m all good, but I wouldn’t want someone to make an expensive mistake. Have a good one.

[@ThePastureGarage]

What’s the normal rebuild price for 4r100, my local shop says 2900$ and they are a really nice shop and go by the book just wandering?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Depending on damage and upgrades probably 26-3200.

[@ThePastureGarage]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you I’m getting a full rebuild for 2900 and the next stage up for 400$ next week, later on I’ll spend 2k when I have it to spend on stronger parts. What hp rating do you think stock parts can handle? If you want to answer don’t want to waste your time just like to learn.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@ThePastureGarage The truck is rated @ 413ft. lbs. so some over that, exactly what I could not say. Thanks for watching.

[@toddsynder2599]

I love watching your videos and learning as I am learning more and more about working on transmissions. My question for this video is why did you cut the spring for the coast clutch shift valve? What does this do for the 4r100s? I have only had one coast clutch show up bad in the all the 4r100s I have done and always want to do what I can to make them better.

[@julleonfischer4877]

@@ThePastureGarage how is that trans rebuild going just curious

[@grndiesel]

Do you normally check for end play during assembly?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Always.

[@grndiesel]

​ @Tom Bearden Mind if I ask what you typically end up with? I've torn my E4OD down several times and seem to have clearance on the rear half, but for some reason the overdrive section in the front is too tight. The pump will not rest against the case, and will spin easily because it's being supported by the front needle bearing. If I torque the front pump into place, the shafts will bind and I can't turn the output shaft in both directions by hand. However, I can turn it both ways by hand, if the pump is not bolted down. And yes, the input shaft remains loose, so the pump is at least axially aligned correctly. The tight clearance appears to be in the hard parts, not the plastic thrust washers (torrington bearings, sun gears, drum and sun shells stack up too tall). I made several attempts to verify this by assembling with only the minimum of hard parts on the main shafts, and the binding is still there due lack of endplay on the front (overdrive section). If the pump were standing off the case by 1/8" or more, I'd say the overdrive section is assembled wrong (coast clutches not aligned) but that checks out. I've replaced most of the parts in this unit (adding many of the typical upgrades) and even tried putting the old parts back in. I still have the same problem of the overdrive section being too tight between the center support and the pump hub. I'm thinking to machine either the center support, or the pump hub (where the needle bearing goes) in order to obtain the 0.005"- 0.020" that sonnax recommends for front shaft clearance (d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/3845/HP-4R100-01-IN.pdf?v=1569603991279). Any ideas?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@grndiesel Don't do that. When I get home tonight I will respond to this, just don't have the time right now. In the meantime give me a list of the parts replaced.

[@grndiesel]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission The transmission is an early E4OD, but I've done everything I can to upgrade since it's going behind a turbocharged 6.9 IDI. I rebuilt it from a core over a decade ago and many of these upgrades were already made back then. Failure this time around was due to the center support roller bearing coming apart. Center support rim also showed the typical wear marks from working against the case lugs (#11 below is to address this). Build list: 1. New output shaft snap ring (not reusable so I bought two just in case I need to take it apart again). 2. All new thrust washers. 3. All new bushings. 4. All new Torrington needle bearings. 5. Used parking Gear. 6. Used 4R100 type 6-pinion reverse setup (reused ring gear and planetary snap ring from the older E4OD setup). 7. New 6 pinion forward planetary and ring gear hub. 8. New overdrive sprag. 9. New 45 element intermediate sprag. 10. New overdrive center shaft (old one had minor galling from the center support bearing failure). 11. New sonnax "snap-ring style" center support with new hub and roller bearing (delivered already machined to accommodate snap ring - tried test fitting without snap ring and the pump was still held up slightly by the front thrust bearing. This lead me to think it's somewhere in the hard parts or thrust bearings/bushings). 12. Pump gear housing has scored, so I machined to fit oversize pump gears. Pump was already the later F5 version. 13. New hardened sun shell (raised tabs type, but I still kept the older 4-tang #8 thrust washer). 14. Clutches are all Raybestos red. 15. Steels are a mix of Raybestos and Alto (needed to order another set for the 4R100 reverse clutches) 16. New Forward Clutch Drum (old one had minor damage from the center support failure) 17. New Intermediate Brake Drum (Also slightly damaged from center support failure) 18. I also added another clutch friction to the intermediate, direct, and overdrive clutch packs (overdrive upgrade was previous, but the others are from this build)

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@grndiesel Both shafts lock down or just the output shaft? Any hard parts replaced in the overdrive section? Not exactly sure what you mean by snap ring style center support. Looked on their website and clicked on the link you sent but don't see that. Link is for the zip kit and you don't need to machine the support to put those parts in. You said you put the old parts in, did this include the support?

[@tonka3293]

I really need that tool for the overdrive spiral snap ring. Any idea where I can find it?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

www.toolsource.com/clutch-spring-fixture-metal-ford-e4od-p-301579.html?tsqtid=

[@tonka3293]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission do you have a link to your holding fixture? Will it bolt to AODE and 4r70’s also?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

www.toolsource.com/holding-fixtures-and-support-c-1321_119_582/gmtransmission-holding-fixture-t0156b-wo-base-p-94383.html?tsqtid=810387 will do 4R70's. www.autotoolworld.com/Atec-Trans-Tool-T-2800-F-Ford-Transmission-Holding-Fixture-wo-Base-E4OD_p_127519.html?

[@JosePerez-qt8gy]

Is there any specific order the shell goes the one with the spring

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I am not understanding which part you are talking about. What is the time stamp in the video?

[@JosePerez-qt8gy]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission 30:27

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The piston and the spring, no. The sprag race that sits on top and holds it in place, yes. There is an oiling hole that needs to line up with the lube port in the case.

[@JosePerez-qt8gy]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the help