Thanks for watching.

Sounds like it may have been run out of oil.

I have had a couple in here with that noise. Both have had a slight blemish on one of the teeth on the input shaft.

@ what’s been the fix? New tranny I just did my clutch and I’m having a pretty same noise when my foot’s off the clutch

@ What was the fix for this transmission in the video? My input shaft had play in it when I reinstalled the transmission when I push on the clutch pedal the noise goes away when it’s not depressed and or moving it makes noise I feel like my problem is the input shaft bearing retainer I replaced the clutch and throw out and pilot Resurface the flywheel any tips would be so appreciated

What would you want them called by?

By the bolt size. 1/4" 5/16". I really doubt there's a 1/2" bolt on that transmission, maybe not even on the car it came from.

@briankrieg5801 I call it by what size socket you need to remove it. So when you go to work on it, you know what tools you need. Who cares what the thread size is.

@@skutahuniai4830 Pretty close to each other once you have done some.

I have not seen it cause anything other than leaks.

Transtar has an online catalog with part numbers. Link is in the description. Go to the Transend tab.

There should at least be a mark to line up the input shaft adapter with the clutch disc. That mark is usually where the opening of the snap ring goes. That should be closest to the mark on the flywheel. From most that I have seen.

Glad you got it going. Thank you for the donation.

There are too many variables to be able to give you a price. Not to mention parts costs seem to go up daily, like everything else these days.

No, it cannot be done in the vehicle. The differential slides into that bushing and has to be removed to get the bushing in and out. You can put seals in until you are blue in the face and it will never quit leaking until that bushing is replaced.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Is it not the bushing that you put in the case at @24:15 from the outside of the passenger side? I assumed this is what the stub shaft rides on and causing the play is there another bushing or bearing that's causing the play I'm not aware back further? Have you ever installed the fitzall 14125RB shaft support kit? Does it work and hold up if so?

Yes, that is the bushing. The diff. rides on that bushing. The stub shaft goes into the diff. No, I have never used that so I cannot comment on it.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Is there a part number for just that bushing?

64060 from WIT.

KZbin sets the commercials, not me.

I regularly use sockets all the way up to 2 inches. Get them as thin wall as possible.

I don't own the shop. Thanks for watching.

Usually only when the torque converter has a lot of damage.

@@lindseysteele1436 Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Also I went through the valve body and all the valves were free. All the checkballs look to be fine but I have not checked the solenoids yet. I don't have much experience with this unit as I have only built maybe 2 of them. Thanks again

Could be the SL1, SR and/or the SLT solenoids. Depending on how they have failed will determine what and how the shifts are affected.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok thanks so much for the reply. Is checking the resistance on the solenoids sufficient? Or do I need to power them up?

@randomgooglename I did forget to mention that just because they check out electrically does not mean that they work mechanically.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission agreed. I'm going to check them now and see what I find. Even if they are out of spec I'm going to replace them going back together. Thanks again for all your help sir.

Make sure the surface where the washer rides on the 2nd drum is not all scored up and there is not a crack there. The discoloration will not interfere with it. You can if you desire. The big thing is getting all the debris from between the ribs and where the piston goes. The way it is designed it really gets lodged in there. You can send me photos. You won't be able to do it here. You will have to go to my Instagram. All the solenoids are not usually necessary. Usually just the band solenoid and both shift solenoids. Don't let them sell you Rostra solenoids. Also make sure they don't send you 2 shift solenoids that are the same. They are different. They look identical except for the locating tabs, which easily bend over when installed in the wrong hole. We buy most of our parts from WIT or Transtar. Get your TC from Precision of New Hampton. Use Transtec rebuild kit with Raybestos clutches. As far as the drilling goes. It is not wise to mix kits from different companies, for that reason alone. Pick one or the other when it comes to drilling holes. As a general rule. You really need to know what you can and can't mix together.

Thanks again, its been a great journey so far, even down to reading articles from the 2004 Auto Transmission Rebuilders Association paper on 4L30 failers and the diagrams as to what fails and what this results in (hence the parts in the rebuild kits you've suggested. I can also see now why you recommend Not to drill the 16E hole if your doing the other fixes), to your comment on the soleniods being different and an article from Driveline auto parts on, "GM 4L30E Shift solenoid, spot the difference"

Thanks for watching.

Very common. Thanks for watching.

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Sorry to bother you. So got it all back together. All new OEM solenoids. Shifts into every gear bar park. Could I have put a wrong sized bolt into one of the holes which is now causing an obstruction and hence the refusal to go to park? Car not throwing up any codes, drives forwards, backwards just no park mode. Many thanks for any pointers.

@@MJR67 Going to be with the linkage. I would start at the pivot pin and spring area. Probably not letting the pawl move.

Yes. There are plenty of other things that can go bad. Bearings, sprags, some have seals and o-rings. Vanes come loose or break. That one is really rare nowadays. Hubs crack, splines strip out, etc.

@@jeremymadej9227 Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

@@yaroslavkuznyetsov2932 That is only if you install the Sonnax zip kit.

So if you just doing cleaning, minus the kit. Dont drill the plate? Thank you for your swift reply. ​@CurmudgeonTransmission

@yaroslavkuznyetsov2932 Correct. Welcome

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for for prompt reply. I have one more question that i pray you can help me with. I reinstall the valve body into my trans and it is so much worse than before. When i first took for test drive it was very rough shift and didnt shift through all the gears especially 5th and 6th and now after TCM reset Wont switch from second even in tip tronic manual shift. I am wondering if perhaps there is someway i misaligned the valve body upon reinstalling. Is this possible? all bolts went in hand tight no resistance and i torque everything in no particular order. Please help. Thank you so much for your time.

ps. i didnt have this issue b4 I service the valvebody. I just had delay between second and 3rd gear. that was my reason to give the valve body a cleaning/replace filter. I cleaned everything with MAF cleaner(cost me a fortune lol) and followed all instructions on disassembly/reassembly im so confused as to why its actually worse than it was before the service. Only thing i could think of is that i didnt allign it with something in the case up on reinstallation.

That is totally your judgement call. Is a lot of miles.

Thanks for watching.

Then it has to be with the internal linkage and manual valve.

When they come in. Had been about 20 years since I had seen 1. Then I have had 3 in the last 2 years.

The snap rings set the clearance in the drums. If the clearance is right, there is no need to measure them. If you don't change anything, and you use quality clutches your clearance is "probably" going to come out correct. I have checked so many clutches I can tell when I am within spec. What is equally important on THIS transmission is the orientation of some of the pressure plates and steels. As well as which snap ring goes where. I do give you that information.

@ thank you I’ll be sure to make sure all my snap ring go back to the same spot they came and pressure plate orientation is all correct

Yeah. They either work great or you have nothing but trouble with them.

You're welcome!

You have to remove the bell housing. It is bolted to the pump.

​@@CurmudgeonTransmissionAfter removing the solenoid, won't I be able to reach behind it with my hand?

@@ufukdemir4367 You might be able to touch it, but you will not be able to get it out.

You will need snap ring pliers and a way to compress the spring cage. The press I am using in the video is pretty expensive. Here is a cheaper one I still use but not as often. They each have their advantages and disadvantages. There are other options. You will just need to search around. www.toolsource.com/snapring-plier-c-194_238_246/straight-tip-lock-ring-pliers-9-in-p-56303.html?tsqtid=1421 www.toolsource.com/strut-spring-compressors-c-433_552/automotive-transmission-foot-pressspring-compressor-tool-p-95881.html?tsqtid=577532

It is Dr. Tranny (Lubegard) assembly gel. In this video I am probably using the gold. It was the thinnest. It is no longer available. Red is the thinnest now. Green is the thickest. Use a Transtec rebuild kit with Raybestos clutches. WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description. I know for a fact that WIT does International shipping.

It could be. The Porsche version is a little different as it is mounted in the rear on the differential. Look on the passenger side of the transmission. Just above the pan. You will find the transmission model stamped there.

It should be under the truck by the left frame rail. It could be a wiring harness. they do have problems with them. it could be a speed sensor. They share a ground. Could be engine misfires, they cause all kinds of problems with these trucks. Could just be a faulty switch. Is this problem why you replaced it?

Does the noise go away after it gets above about 30 mph? If so, The surface of the pulley has an imperfection in it. I believe this one had that problem. Parts are expensive and can be hard to get.

@CurmudgeonTransmission the noise worsens the faster you drive. It's a loud clicking we the vehicle starts moving in forward or reverse. It's speed related to the speed of the vehicle. The clicking doesn't change when it shifts to a higher gear. It just gets louder and faster as the vehicle speeds up. The noise is coming pretty much in the middle of the trans pan. And thanks for the info on the adapt-a-case tool..

I have not had any case bushings walk out. I use Durabond bushings.

I use them in all. Not only is the bushing a problem area, but those sealing rings as well. They just don't seal properly.

@@khairulanwarazhar6695 Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

No. The support is different. You can however use both parts and back service it.

You need a 2 or 3 jaw puller. It takes a lot of force to get it off. You may need to modify the jaws to get them in there. You will also need a press to reinstall it.

Yes, it is.

Thanks. It was Transgel Gold. No longer available. Thinnest you can get now is the red from Dr. Tranny (Lubegard).

@ awesome, Ty sir!

Thanks. Common problem on these. All versions of it.

Maybe to both.

@ Tom one last question. In Toyota on u760e or any other one we have shift solenoid, TCC solenoid, line pressure solenoid, pressure regulator valve. Out of those which is more common for cleaning and stuck. You said you always take this and clean it. Which one is that pls

@@sivucit PR and TCC seem to stick more often, but could be any of them.

@ Thanks Tom. Do you replace all solenoids while rebuilding and do u also do Sonax vacuum test after rebuilding valve body

Hard parts, ie: drums, shafts, etc., yes. Stuff like bands, clutches, etc., I would only do if you cannot get new ones. Now sometimes they do change the dimensions of parts, so make sure they match up. Then in some cases you may need to change several parts to make it work. Tell me what parts you have in mind, and I will see if I can help you. Make sure to let me know the years and also what they came out of.

I don't show a P0775 for that model. B should be shift solenoid 2 though. That one is the 2nd one up from the internal linkage.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you kindly sir

If it is a molded piston, I replace it.

No, I'm not. Thanks for watching.

@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks. I have a question about this unit. I'm getting a shudder when warm. I checked fluid it's not a bright red. Seems a little over filled. Car has 61k miles and I doubt it's been changed before. You think that will help?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I hope you get my response KZbin tags are so weird for me

When exactly is it shuddering? Engagements, 40-50 mph?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission after it gets warmed up can be around the 45 but more so in lower speeds. Notice it more if Im on and off the accelerator like in traffic. Does have a felt shift sometimes as well. Not overly hard but you can feel it pop into gear so to speak