5 EASY Steps to FIX BLOWN OUT HIGHLIGHTS!

[@Photography-Explained]

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[@KatieF307]

Wow, this is one of the most enlightening instructional videos I have ever seen about dynamic range and lighting. Awesome job! This information is foundational.

[@nevvanclarke9225]

I under exposed everything by one stop now. I also use average in the metering mode. This makes a huge difference! I live in Australia and the light. I don't know what it would be measured in stops but it would be huge. It's very very bright here in Australia. The sun is harsh. Given that we also have noise reduction software if you are not sure it's okay to slightly under expose an image and run some D-noise software. You can recover more from shadows in highlights remember that.. Good to turn your highlights on the camera screen so you can see if you are blowing them out. This is more valuable to me than the histogram but I'm lucky because I shoot medium format and I've got a lot of dynamic range to play with. Bracketing is a good skill as well and in certain situations filters are okay too. It just depends on the circumstance.

[@mr.joeblack3831]

It'd be awesome to see your exposure blending process.

[@mrgumby1954]

This is a helpful and valuable video. I came up in photography in the film area. Shooting 4x5, I studied the Zone System as used by Ansel Adams, and well explained by Minor White. This video brings that old school film technology, into the digital age. Thank You!

[@Photography-Explained]

You're welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Are there any books or resources you'd recommend to learn more about the Zone System?

[@jesperweng4193]

Thank you for your very clear way of explaning things. ( my ears a danish ) . And Yes of course I would like to se/hear a video from you about simple exposure blending. Yors cinserly Jesper in Denmark Roskilde.

[@Steve-qi7hc]

I enjoy your videos. I don't shoot a lot of landscapes but more macro stuff. Sometimes I'll get a blown highlight and depending on the size I'll use the remove tool in Photoshop. Also a polarizing filter can sometimes help.

[@drkanyalkar8624]

Thanks for this great practical video

[@regenytarmovies]

The other school says: try to always have a small gap on the right side of the histogram, because it's easier to bring back details from the shadows than from burnt white.

[@sigsegv111]

Hmm, concept of exposing to the right is aimed more at shadows .. my few points 1) I often bracket my shots `even if the scene fits to my histogram' because to have a clean shots especially in shadows it is required to have properly exposed photo in shadows which is massively overexposed photo overall .. if the photo otherwise fits, I am OK with just two shots .. 2) on high DR scene it is NOT enough to take just two shots, moreover with 2 stops between them ... More shots you use to blend your final photograph == cleaner image .. I recommend to use at least three shots .. 3) extreme right part of the histogram are NOT `highlights' but they are called `whites' .. The most of the tonality range and contrast and detail is captured in around highlights part which roughly means 3rd of 4 slices of histogram (if you will divide your histogram to quarters) .. 4) landscape photography cannot be effectively done without bracketing .. This needs to be repeated over and over as a "PRO" tip #1 ..

[@godsinbox]

when you use exposure bracketed images, check you camera isnt using electronic shutter to capture those images. Electric shutter has 2 stops less dynamic range than mechanical shutter. So, dont do what he says unless you know the trade off.

[@DonaldWMeyers-dwm]

It's like what visual effects artists say, the best VFX is the one you can't see

[@BartKestelyn]

While I completely understand your explanation here, I'm at a bit of a loss on how to implement it on my gear (Nikon D750) in my field of photography: concerts. HDR or bracketing seems to be impossible, as the subjects tend to be in continuous motion, and my camera has no immediate histogram or zebras, as it's a DSLR, not mirrorless 🤔

[@JNkind5]

To check for overexposed highlights on a Nikon D750, you can use the "Highlight Display" feature in the camera menu, which will visually indicate areas of the image that are potentially overexposed by displaying a pattern (like zebra stripes) over those bright areas; access this feature by navigating to the shooting menu and selecting the "Highlight display" option, then adjust the threshold level to determine how bright an area needs to be before it is flagged as overexposed

[@timmurfitt9627]

Blowing the highlights is fine, providing the image is not for print. No detail, not ink on the page. Great easy to watch videos though.