5 Things You Must Do to Your Classic Ford Mustang!

[@FourSpeedFilms]

New merch www.amfilmfest.com/marketplace?Collection=Four+Speed Thanks for the support! For more content follow me on Instagram @benkahan

[@markrs2000]

I bought my 1967 Mustang when I was 21, I'm now 62, still have it, still love it. I've all the mods except the Shelby drop, going to look into that soon. Great shows, love them all so far.

[@bruceg.6282]

With part of my Grandma's inheritance, I bought a red 1966 Mustang in 1967. It had a 289, 4 bbl and a 4 speed. I put dual exhausts, polyglas tires, and chrome reverse wheels on it. I bought a dual 4bbl/intake manifold for it but didn't have time to install it. I got drafted! Went thru basic and when I was in AIT, my dad sold it. He just couldn't handle money. So I took the rest of granny's inheritance and got a 1969 Dodge Dart GTS with a 383, 4 bbl. and a hurst 4 speed. A rare car. Put headers on it and got sent to Germany! Drove it home for storage and within 6 months my dad sold that one too. I gave up after that. My next car was a 1966 Rambler station wagon.

[@arthurnelson7535]

Lucky men😊

[@mwolf7862]

@@bruceg.6282 How come he sold your cars!?

[@jeffreytibesar5517]

Just bought a 66 mustang project. Hope to have it for the rest of my life

[@mwolf7862]

@@jeffreytibesar5517 Best of luck Wanna finance one end of 2024

[@prodiggy765]

1. Shelby drop 2. Rear metal firewall 3. Dual reservoir (master cylinder) 4. Positraction 5. Disc brakes

[@radioguy1620]

2.5 inch flowmaster pipes over the axle,, front spoiler. a little seen but very effective aid to high speed stability also aids in engine cooling. why every new car has one. posi is ok but easier to lose control if both wheels spin on a curve. I think you can up fit to granada spindles and get better calipers and maybe bigger bearings .

[@ReyJOnliine]

“If you’re going fast and can’t stop, that’s a recipe for disaster.” Good advice. You definitely want to feel confident in stopping before you push the car

[@thomaslange2174]

-I have a '68 with a 289. I have had it up to about 120 mph... That was with MODERN tires. I cannot imagine driving on the polyglass tires that were par for the course in 1968. Oh, and it has 4 wheel drums... ***** These things--ENSURED that by the time I got my car--27 years after its birth--that it would already be a rarity. Now, I haven't done any mods... but it has been 2 decades since it has gone over 70 mph... (All of this is to say: yes, stopping is important. I also had a mid-90s Eagle Talon-with a turbo... THAT car was in the 90s what the Mustang was in the 60s. And I did upgrade the turbo, and put bigger rotors and 4 piston calipers on that car--for the *stopping* purposes...)

[@MrCrazypb]

As someone who has been 22 before I’m amazed you are talking about safety and stopping the car. Most guys buy cars and want power mods before handling and braking. Keep up the good work

[@diez0305]

loving the content bro. im 23 with a 65 with a 302/t5, there's still so much to do but the car has been a riot. i had a 2013 gt before this car but these old cars are so much more fun. im loving that younger car dudes are getting back into the older muscle now that prices have sort of calmed down from what they used to be

[@blucheer8743]

I got a 65 fastback put a 363 with tkx 5speed in it, now going through suspension… thinking of quick change rear end to have more options for city and country driving. my dad was mustang guy… I use to kind of laugh about it he’d get kinda defensive about it, I’d tease him about being an old guy with his hot rod lol but I get it now. When I sit in it, it’s like sitting in a cockpit from an old ww2 airplane.. it’s starts all noisy and sputters gas.. the engine is carbureted but very tall cam high compression… my dad flew in the marine corp… now I get it.. it’s manual steering and breaks it feels like an old airplane going down the runway and when you get going and engine is roaring it’s like youre flying… now I get it lol mustangs rule!!

[@I_like_turtles_67]

It's good seeing younger guys appreciate the older cars. Easy to work on. Parts comparatively to newer cars can be cheaper. I feel bad for some of you guys having to spend so much to get an d car though. I don't even wanna tell you what I paid for my 67 fastback in 2000 lol.

[@jonathand3613]

Heck yeah! I got a 65 with a 302 and a t5 too

[@pd2865]

Nice choices. I have owned a 1965 Mustang since 1978. I also built AC Cobras for a living. Here are my personal modifications starting from front to back. And my goal was to try to use all OEM parts from FORD and keep the 1965 look. Yes to the Shelby drop, but. Here is my extra secret. But I also added extra metal under the upper control arms where the saddle bolts, because I have seen crack around those holes. 1974 Maverick spindles, they have free caster built in and can come with disc brakes dual master cylinder/adjustable proportion valve. if you get car with those, same parts as a Granada conversion. Next, bias the upper control arm shaft rearward 1/8th of an inch. Die grind a very thin channel X for grease that does not interfere with the threads. 1968 Mustang big block springs, and cut one third of one coil off the top. On all four corners upper arm bolts are only one shim. The car sits almost level, not having that nose dive like your car and all Shelby cars. That allows for bigger tires, a better looking stance and no worrying about speed breakers. Sit in the car while it is being aligned so it is zeroed with your weight. Monte Carlo and export brace. Good strong shocks, 0ne inch front sway bar, all polyurethane bushings, power steering close ratio box and manual, no power. I have one extra half leaf on the rear with a 5/8th inch rear sway bar, polyurethane bushings. Late model diaphragm clutch m10 1/2 inch. Duraspark electronic ignition with a 6AL MSD box (first non OEM part). Here is a big one, Tremec 5spd for that traction lock you bought. I modified the Tremc bell housing so that I kept all the 1965 clutch pedal, and linkage, clutch arm, throwout bearing. MOD: drill out the two rivets on your 1965 bell housing. Make an exact template using the four transmission mounting holes and drill the two fulcrum holes. The Tremec bell housing: remove the cable pivot arm, bolt the template and drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them once template is removed. The difference in the top loader and Tremec input shaft is, the Tarmac is 5/8th inch longer. So, get aluminum bar stock and machine down to 5/8th inch thick. The block should be like a spacer for the fulcrum assemble, moving the fulcrum forward the 5/8th inch difference. Use grade 8 fine thread counter sunk bolts and metal lock nuts. Use your standard 1965 adjustable clutch rod and add an adjustable 1968 Mustang lower clutch rod. Now you can cruise at 75 mph at 2200 RPMs. I also paid a little extra for the new driveshaft and got an aluminum one. Excluding the Tremec, this is a very inexpensive way to upgrade your car for dependability and longevity. I did this 35 years ago, and have never touched the car since and it was a daily driver. Three point seat belts is a must. Aluminum radiator, electric fan with a relay is great. I powder coated everything under the hood but the block. Extra, but it looks as good now as 35 years ago, Simple Green, new again. My last is, I took small tach and oil gauges and made my own Ralley Pac style gauge package. I have done the Shelby drop before, but I really believe my car handles even better with my modification. With that nose drop, your weight shifts rearward like a fulcrum. I don't get as much push or that extreme over steer. So I just gave you my decades of modifications. Good luck.

[@LypheusX]

The rear sheet metal behind the seat was a mod I made too, bonus is less exhaust coming into cab on highway and great for diffusing in tank fuel pump noise if you sound deaden as well - under estimated upgrade and easy to do

[@georgemostang1280]

And did you seal the openings over the rear wheel wells going to the rear pillars and the headliner. I put a steel floors in my `65 and `67 trunks years ago and hung the tanks below that. If a tank pops, it is outside the car. I worked at Metuchen Assembly after the Mustangs. Arnie drop on both my Mustangs. Don't use a harbor fright spring compressor. FI 5OHO and 351W, both Top Loader 4sp and disc brakes.

[@LypheusX]

@@georgemostang1280 Planning to finish building out a custom trunk liner for the car, will probably insulate in those areas - cool that you worked at Metuchen :) !

[@dfrford]

100% spot on, i did not think about the rear seat firewall!! Thank You

[@finalmage6]

Going fast doesn't matter if you can't stop! Disc brake upgrade is number one thing I did on my '68 for safety and drivability.

[@pinkyogurt8440]

“You crash you die you don’t want that” actually had me crying 😂

[@beaver6969lv]

I did the Arnie Drop (aka Shelby) 6 years ago on my 67 Mustang I've had 28 years. Best mod to do on a Mustang. Another great mod that you should do while you're doing the drop is, strengthen the shock towers with weld-in reinforcement plates. It's a must on those cars. So many easy and great mods to make Mustangs handle better.

[@JJackMoto]

I have a 68 coupe, bought it a year and a half ago. The absolute best thing I have done, performance and safety, was the Wilwood disc conversion from drums. Such a difference. I was going to go the cheaper route with the MC, but I took your advice and shelled our for the Wilwood MC. After some rebuilding of the brake lines, it's a totally different car. That and the QA1 coilovers have been a huge transformation.

[@N-Scale]

I am totally down with your car and the look of her. I am saving money to put a Paxton Supercharger on my 2008 Bullitt. Mike

[@crazycaseyscustoms]

That’s a worthy upgrade, Mike. I had an ‘08 Bullitt. Car number 125.

[@N-Scale]

@@crazycaseyscustoms Cool , Mine is 1925 kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6O2f4poYpeKpdU

[@mando82jr]

Doing a C4 to aod conversion on my 67 shortly... Rear gears and posi are next on my wish list

[@dumpsterchicken6287]

Great information. Now, all I need is a car to modify.

[@jrparker4804]

Boom 💥 Great video! Stay after it and keep posting!

[@sartorst3376]

I agree with all that with the addition of rack and pinion

[@allaboutboaz4808]

Good tips. For me, going from a single bowl to a power booster disc brake setup was a life changer.

[@marcbee1234]

If the brakes go out there's still the hand pull emergency brake.

[@markchapmon8670]

2, 3 & 5 are safety must do as soon as you can. The posi and lower gears are fun and if you put an overdrive transmission in at the same time, the effect on your fuel economy won't be as noticeable. I'm not familiar with the Shelby drop, but your 65's stance is pretty sweet. Personally, I'd lose the bias ply tires and get some performance radials. Good video overall.

[@beaver6969lv]

Instead of overdrive transmission, stick a gear vendors under/overdrive behind the transmission. 6 gears from a c4 and 3:93 diff gears. Cruise going 85 mph at 1800 rpm.

[@davelowell3008]

As a 67 owner you’ve made very good points young man. Now find a 67-68, you’ll enjoy it more, but keep yours, don’t sell it.

[@andrewwasson6153]

Great tips! I just bought a 66 Mustang so I’m scouring KZbin for good content on mid-60’s mustangs. Your tips on brakes, gears, Shelby drop and rear firewall are absolutely on-point. I ride motorbikes and before I make them go fast, I make sure the tires and suspension are good to go and that it will stop quickly and safely. Nice car by the way.

[@wakjob961]

Remember...the "Shelby Drop" doesn't physically lower the front of the car, it just changes the geometry of the upper control arm to handle better. To lower the car, you'll need new springs made for doing just that.

[@Historicaldigest]

Thank you for this! I just bought a '65 mustang (I'm a 23yo girl) and I was looking on advice on what to do to it. This is great!

[@Pipiasgarage]

My 1954 olds has all original drum brakes (redone, and rebuilt master cylinder) stops great but not as good as disc brakes. Since it’s just a cruiser I probably won’t convert to discs, it does have a built motor which is super fun. Great vid bro

[@32road]

Kudos for diggin’ the old cars Ben! Great to see a young fella flying the flag n’ keepin’ the flame goin’. Keep up with the great vids✌️

[@seancunn4089]

YES to disc brakes! Monte Carlo bar, one piece export brace.

[@AZCobraman]

I was 14 when I got my '66 Coupe...that was 1980. Swapped out the 200-6 for a '69 302 and did many of the same mods you did, including the relocated upper arms, Koni shocks, 1" sway bar, urethane bushings and the Shelby valance. Love that you stuck with the 15s and vintage Polyglass tires. Dubs are for losers. :o)

[@TD-ce5ru]

My Uncle is the original owner of my 1965 fastback. I bought it in 1971. I can vouch for that dual brake master cylinder, as in 1973, my rear brake line broke and as I came off the interstate exit ramp I did not have any brakes. The pedal went all the way to the floor. I started down shifting and clipped the back fender of a taxi cab before the curb stopped me. Even though I still have the single master cylinder still on the car, I need to take your advice.

[@crazycaseyscustoms]

I would add that anybody who doesn’t have coil-overs should add roller spring perches and a thicker sway bar to that Shelby drop suggestion. The early Falcons came with bronze-bushed perches, but by the time the Mustang hit the assembly line, they had “cheapened out” with rubber. The Shelby (Arning) drop fixed the geometry, and the perches allow the suspension to work as it was designed.

[@hotrodray6802]

Holman Moody Racing invented the drop, used on their rally Falcons. The true Shelby drop is more than what you see. But few people do the whole thing.

[@crazycaseyscustoms]

Klaus Arning was head of Advanced Suspension Design within Ford, @@hotrodray6802. I know that Holman Moody worked closely with Ford at that time, but I don’t think Klaus was ever employed by Holman Moody, though I could be wrong…

[@saltypaladin9488]

I'm in the process of restoring a 66, 289 C code with the C4 transmission. I will not be hot rodding the old girl, I have 2 other, more modern mustangs for that. While I do want the car to look and feel as original as possible, I do have to suggest the master cylinder upgrade. Even though I am keeping non powered drums, I was able to use a dual pot master cylinder that was given to me for free, from a 67 mustang. The kit with lines to make this conversion easy, was only $30 off of CJ pony, but do read the reviews as they have left out an adapter that you will need to get a any local auto store. Also, I must admit. I may be doing the rear firewall now after watching this video. Glad to see some younger guys out there still keeping the classics alive !!

[@Jason_903]

Love the Shelby drop looks perfect 👍

[@jetsamperes5762]

Had a hole in my brake line on my '66 coupe. It was like hitting a patch of ice except it was the middle of July. That was 33 years ago and the memory is still as fresh. Somehow came out unscathed.

[@brandonloll4262]

Yup a Dual master cylinder is a must on any old car.

[@hotrodray6802]

That IS logical... but in 60 yrs I have only seen ONE brake system failure... maybe rotted or rusted brake lines up in the rust belt? but that is just poor maintenance. Yes I have dual mc and discs 👍👍👍

[@paulcolson3220]

And I love hood locks. I hopped my 64.5 coupe in 1984 and popped the hood on a straight a way going fast. Didn’t get hurt (amazingly) but that was some post run repair!

[@paulcolson3220]

Great video. I’d add a three point safety belt.

[@johnsheetz6639]

The caliper Piston popped out in my 67 fastback one time thank God I was able to spin her around I even tried putting it in park while it was going

[@SkvalaGaming]

Good job on the safety tips, it's not all about Horse power and torque, a car got to stop and be safe too.

[@mattdugan2000]

Time for a T5! Best of both worlds, BUT you might have to change the channel name to 5speed ha!

[@vernm6189]

Great Car ! With the Shelby drop, you can now buy Upper Control Arms that drop the rear of the arm the 1" using stock holes , so you don't need to do the plate and drilling anymore. I run a 3.25 gear LS with the TL 4 speed. 2800 @ 70 nice happy medium, you can run the 3.40 gear and still FWY, not so much FWY with a 3.80 (unless you go to a T5)

[@yashvrm]

You guys are so lucky. these cars are soo rare in my country that even if you find one it costs over a million.

[@v.e.7236]

I owned a '66 'Stang and back then (70s) there were no after market rear firewalls and I had never even heard of the Shelby drop you talk about. Not sure when that mod became popular, but re-positioning the control arms would have been a great suspension upgade, for sure and that rear firewall would have aided in frame stiffening and over handling characteristics. I installed a full rollcage in mine and took an extra amount of effort to keep it as unobtrusive and invisible as possible. I also added the strut tower braces as soon as I got my Mustang. That brace and a set of front disc brakes a dual master cylinder from a Torino were the very first things I modified. Posi and stuff came later, as I could afford them. Good mods all the way around for any classic Mustang.

[@76354542q]

Ben... Great to see you enjoying your Pony .... I just bought my first Pony and I will be using your tips.... extremely cool video... Thank You ! Go Well

[@JangumTute]

one of the mod that i made to my 66 mustang, highly recommend if you don't have power steering... get power steering, I personally went with an EPAS system... and my god the transformation in steering was well worth it! manual steering isn't too bad when your cars in motion, but a lot of the times, pulling out from the side of a road or something it was just a lot, and its nice knowing i have more control over my steering, my next mod that i really wanna do: power brakes. i still have manual so I don't really feel safe going fast and if you're stuck at a long red light it can be really annoying, using all of your body weight to press the brakes and make sure the car isn't moving. Another stupid modification that i made to my mustang, when it comes to window wash fluid, i hate the bag, i really hated the bag. I got a 67 resevoire they started using the actual hard plastic ones, i bought that one and drilled in new holes and mounted it. love it.

[@bonesstones6584]

"You crash you die" made me LOL! Great car dude...

[@FourSpeedFilms]

Thanks!

[@Gonzo145]

Hello here From denmark,i have done all the mods,exsept from the firewall for Many ears ago on my 67 Mustang ,😊

[@radioguy1620]

Front spoiler aids cooling tremendously as well as high speed stability. the stereo in front of the gas tank sort of encourages a fire if even your filler hose comes loose in a crash , might want to move it .

[@terrymott8581]

Well done, both performance and safety tips, while bang for your bucks. Short and to the point.

[@randymillsjr.1730]

Good stuff

[@bbrown9763]

Nice video. I wasn't really expecting much- or the same same same, but you actually brought up some great points. I've never even heard about putting a piece of steel behind the rear seat- that's a great idea. My 67 has a dual pot master so, non-issue, but the rest, are great ideas. Nice job.

[@isaacyoung467]

I thought I'd click and see what of this might be helpful, but I guess by 85, Ford had it pretty straight! I've just gotta get an 8.8 with a 3.55 posi unit, a new master cylinder, and do an intake job, and it'll be money!

[@isaacyoung467]

While I'm here, it ran a 14.58 @ 96.52 and that's the best I've had 'er. 302/T5 with posi 2.73s, notch. 80 @ 2000 on the highway, 4500 in 3rd gear at the end of the track. Smokes 'em easy in first, grabs rubber in second, but I try not to think too much about that poor, poor clutch going from 3.35 1st to 1.93 2nd with that long-ass rear end.

[@williamMikmaq222]

Great advice! Safety first always...... I’m impressed.

[@poindextertunes]

My great uncle worked at Broadway Ford in Kansas City and I have his 67 mustang it was a demo model off the showroom floor he paid $2800 for it back in 1968 I have all the papers. Now I’m just saving up

[@zetekfr]

Add the export brace in your list. It's a major improvement.

[@TheRareCriticalThinker]

Awesome video, man. Just got a 67 289 hipo at 25 years old.

[@robkallok77]

Thumbs up. Thanks for focusing on the fun stuff and the safety stuff - they really go hand in hand. Plus your suggestions also go for those of us with Falcons 😉

[@Redmist.65]

Decent video, I will get the firewall as I never even thought about that. the other bits are on my list. What sort of "highway" speeds are we talking about with the gearing?

[@TomsBackyardWorkshop]

One more. Get a gas filler neck insert so you can fill your tank and not spill gas everywhere.

[@Cougar139tweak]

That looks like the treatment we used to give them in the 90s Nice stance, fat tires, Primered look...all business

[@FourSpeedFilms]

Just simple🙌

[@lucasgusi]

Dude....yes I need dual bowl master cylinder

[@twasbrillig33]

love those rims and understated matte pine green paint job

[@SOU6900]

If I had of gotten my 86 GMC K2500 I probably would have gone for a 60s or 70s Mustang, even one with a basic straight 6. And for what it's worth a Gear Vendor unit can help make that classic even more fun, and improve the fuel consumption on the freeway.

[@hotrodray6802]

🔔😎 And this above all: Drive your car. ENJOY IT 👍👍👍👍

[@jamescampbell8932]

God this is a gorgeous car. Where im from its impossible to drive a car over 25 years old legally if you yourself are not 25. Been saving a long time for a Pontiac Firebird but gonna have ro wait a couple more years to actually drive the damn thing

[@geraldscott4302]

I'm so glad you didn't put GHETTO REEHUUMS on it. I have a 1967 Camaro, 383 engine (350 block bored .030 over with a 400 crank) 4 speed, and a 2:73 rear axle. Yep, 2:73. I have no interest in going fast. I like acceleration, but not high top speeds. It will lay rubber in first, and accelerates very well if you don't short shift it. I don't want to drive around with the engine turning 4K rpm. I have a real dual exhaust (no crossover) with resonators and no mufflers. I have a rare set of Appliance aluminum 5 slot 14" wheels and 225/70-14 RWL BF Goodrich Radial T/As. It does have front disc brakes, but not Wildwood. It stops fine. Suspension is 100% stock except for poly bushings and better shocks.

[@michaelgreen7028]

Excellent job Sir! Thanks

[@blucheer8743]

Great content!

[@johnjuarez8005]

I have every mod you stated except the steel firewall. Got get it.

[@martincastillo1137]

I got a 68 ford falcon but this is still usefull

[@fixitshop3025]

Another thing that helps is a Monte Carlo bar and a Import brace and bigger sway bars

[@FourSpeedFilms]

True! I have all that

[@marcadam984]

Fun Fact: I was running my 66 Mustang. 347 Stroker with 175 shot. 7.50’s in the 1/8th mile…. Annnnd running all wheel drum with that single bowl master cylinder… lol. I could’ve died…

[@cyborgtuna879]

i’m 21 with a 66coupe that i’ve had since i was 16 as well. sick to see other people my age that like the older cars being that 90% of all classic meets are older guys with no time to help out on builds

[@FourSpeedFilms]

Nice!

[@amx19733]

Great video!!! Hey what size tires and wheels are you running?

[@chrisvalois2439]

Hey Nice short video but good! Thanks from Germany

[@gerry.mcginty]

Great advice thanks, How did you manage to get those big tyres on the car without them rubbing, what did you use specifically? thanks

[@jamesritchie8540]

Roller bearing spring perches and control arms

[@charleysgarage]

Great job on these, I am very impressed with young guys doing the work on classic cars. gives me hope for the future. I have done all of these except the posi, take a look at my channel if you get a chance and give the old guy some ideas for his 68 Stang.

[@blapjona599]

good video straight to the point thanks

[@ChadDrake4185]

Excellent job man. Good work. I enjoy your videos. Keep it up!

[@paulsellgren9972]

the plate behind the rear seat also stiffens the car

[@ddaytona1]

Good tips! The front valence - was that easy to install? Did it match up right? Which specific one did you get and where did you get it from?

[@killerb3609]

When it comes to brakes: if it’s got a lot of go, it needs even more woah

[@lancearp7389]

Had it “quite a while”. 6 years, you got time kid

[@jstravelers4094]

The rear firewall is a must! Not all that hard to fabricate. Far better than NOTHING!

[@gpadrov2]

My 66 stang stops just fine with 4 wheel drums and the single reservoir master cylinder. But if you have $3000 to throw away by all means go ahead and reinvent the wheel.

[@donaldhenessee9677]

Great video had my 65 since 1975 I'm currently doing a full resto mod. What size tires are you running in the rear , Thanks Don

[@pauldulworth2768]

Well done. Sound wisdom.

[@rogerfurman7450]

I have a 65 Mustang convertible. Own 27 years..why the Shelby drop?? what does it accomplish? car is a survivor and all original..car was upgraded to a duel master cylinder before I got it.

[@JohnnyXR7]

Great video Ben!

[@Buzza1966]

Oh yeah, giving me ideas for my mustang

[@mcflem74]

This was awesome I like those wheels

[@daleferguson1233]

1984 I bought my 1966 mustang...$1,200. That was a lot of money then😅😅😅 I miss it😮

[@mikespain8655]

In 1986 I bought my 1966 Mustang for $2150 , and that was a lot of money. Still have her.

[@edwardcm9175]

Nice bro!

[@jstravelers4094]

Awesome tips

[@firstnamelastname3117]

I would argue you really don't need disc brakes tbh. There's a reason big rigs still use drums, if they're calibrated correctly, they work much better. Huge drawback though is the failure rate when wet.

[@LesPaulLover916]

Where did you buy your exact Shelby drop kit? I would love to follow along with the old video you did of it a while back! Thanks!

[@amanciobarragan]

Where are you from

[@hotrodray6802]

Its just a template that shows you where to drill the holes. Theres a

[@amanciobarragan]

I have a few spare templates, found the design for it online and made some myself

[@I_like_turtles_67]

Check out Mike maier Inc.

[@LesPaulLover916]

@@amanciobarragan I’m out of California

[@joeklopp4842]

Nice video. Like your car.

[@mr.anonymous.4012]

What's the best place to get a posi diff like that that ? Asking for my 66 289

[@ponyxpress3]

I’m looking to do the same. It looks like he bought Yukon 8” gears. I’ll partially covert my 2.80 to 3.55 posi since I have a c4.

[@mikecharles374]

Did you put meta/firewall in the window where the speakers are?

[@lemonke1576]

You ever have problems with tires rubbing? I'm running 15x7, 4.25" backspacing wheels with 215/60 tires and I'm rubbing on the fender. Your wheels/tires look way bigger than mine and I'm wondering if you've done anything to address problems you may have had. Thanks!

[@FourSpeedFilms]

They are rolled out 👍

[@donaldhenessee9677]

@@FourSpeedFilms What size tires are you running?