5 Ways To Remove Surface-Mount Capacitors | One Is The Best!

[@homerghost]

Great video! I would love to see a "mythbusters" episode. I've seen so many people online say that there's no need to replace capacitors at all, that power cleaners such as on the GBA provide no benefit and are just snake oil, you can/can't clean PCBs in a dishwasher, that the person in the video is using too much flux (is there ever such a thing?), leaded vs unleaded solder, etc. I would really enjoy a video that deep dives into these controversial topics!

[@MachoNachoProductions]

Haha, that’s a great idea!

[@tedundercarriage8183]

silver bearing solder is the best.

[@Appl3sandgrapes]

That's a great idea; you could get a ton of different people on board with it as well in the community to offer their opinions/recommendations on case by case basis, like known systems that have frequent caps failure vs ones known to have high quality ones and what not

[@udance4ever]

what's the TL;DR answer to all these questions? :)

[@russellzauner]

agree with all except too much rosin flux means you gotta do some nasty follow up cleaning if you don't have access to the production floor's boardwasher I'm lazy so there is such a thing as too much flux lol but if you use low solids/zero clean flux you can add all you want ha ha ha

[@Puzznik]

Hey Tito, One note: You should always gradually and repeatedly twist the capacitor in the Twist Off method. That wat the legs slowly fatigue and break more easily, with almost no stress. As soon as you encounter pressure, twist back the other direction, repeated a dozen times or so. I have partially pulled up pads with the snip method. That method is also difficult when other components block a correct parallel approach with the snips.

[@Stefan_Payne]

The Problem with the "Twist" Method is that it is called that, when in reality its more of a "Wiggle" Method... I would recommend to NOT use tools and just use your fingers to wiggle the cap off. I have great success with that and prefer the Twist Method for larger caps, for 5mm caps, the Snip method is equally good. BUt I don't like it for larger diameter caps

[@turnofftheoverheadlight]

+1 on snipping being more risky in my experience than twisting. Rocking or a similar twisting you mentioned is my go-to depending on pad/corrosion condition

[@Stefan_Payne]

@@turnofftheoverheadlight Snipping is fine for the tiny 10µF/16V and similarly sized caps. For the big ones, I would wiggle

[@turnofftheoverheadlight]

@@Stefan_Payne It is uncommon, but I've had both the smaller and larger caps pull pads from what I assume is the snip blade angle pulling up before cutting the outer shell completely.

[@ResidentXombie]

I just recapped my original PS1, all SMD caps. I did my fair share of trace ripping by trying to solder out SMD caps from the OG Xbox. I use the snipping method now. Take your time and be patient when removing.

[@lyianx]

I think i learned the snipping method pretty early and have been using that.

[@Anthony-qt8wv]

I recapped my PSone console and used the snip method. I let the snips do the work. I took my time and it worked great! I do have a Hot Air Station but figured why not give this a try? It does require you to remove the legs left behind which is an extra step. You would need to remove around 23 caps for a complete job. Keep that in mind!

[@hadesmcc]

I've found the twist method to work well on boards with heavy leakage but I do it differently, I don't choose a direction and go all the way, I gently rotate in both directions to until I fatigue the metal on the legs. I did that on a Nomad, a PC Engine GT and a couple of Game Gear consoles, and all the pads survived without damage. All of them had pretty heavy leakage, particularly the GT. It looked like some of the pads were way too far gone but, it actually cleaned up really well with solder, flux and braid.

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

Yes, that’s the right way. It’s funny how this guy chose to do it the worst way possible in order to keep believing he is right about twisting = bad 😂

[@Last_Colossi]

Dude! Thank you so much! I am literally doing a full recap of my Xbox this week and I've been worried about exactly what method I should use to remove the SMD caps!

[@linkdelodela]

i would love a review for power mods for different consoles, would be useful to change depending on region, but also replacing the most sensitive part of our old hardware ! Great video as always.

[@christurner4799]

Thank you so much, it's like you literally ready my mind, 2 weeks ago I was feeling really really brave and tried to desolder my Japan-import GBA to replace the capacitors and the very first one I did I tore the pad off....now it'll be a FunnyPlaying GBA once the motherboard comes in, but I'm definitely very appreciative of this guide, thanks Tito!

[@CompletelyAverageGameplay]

I started doing retro repairs thanks to one of your videos, and in it you used the flush cutter method to remove SMDs so that's what I did and it's worked great every time I've tried it. This was all before I invested in a hot-air rework station and even though I have one now I still use the flush cut method primarily. It's just quicker and is usually fairly safe as long as you have a good angle on the cap. The twist method is horrifying, and especially on older consoles seems like it would result in lots of torn pads. If anyone out there's had good results with it, you do you but I've had too many pads come up with far gentler methods and finding the correct point to wire bodge wires to gets really old, really fast. I rushed too much on my first Sega Genesis recap and tore a ton of the pads and traces getting the old solder off. Now I take my time - slow, steady and high heat for old solder.

[@RedLine_Renesis]

Perhaps a combination of the cutting and hot tweezers may end up being the safest method, eliminating the possibility of explosion.

[@GiSWiG]

(unless you've already done this) How about a video on how to place new SMCs on? In fact, how about safe removal and replacement of various components including the proper temps as well.

[@thomasandrews9355]

...just solder them. Put solder on one pad. Put cap. Solder other side. Don't overthink it

[@MachoNachoProductions]

Great idea!

[@HybridDivide]

@@MachoNachoProductions Yes please!

[@lyianx]

@@thomasandrews9355 Knowing the proper temps is *not* "overthinking" it.

[@thomasandrews9355]

@@lyianx that only addresses the last thing they said. But you're right, 360-400c. Leader solder. If putting multi legged components, tack one pin down, make sure orientation is good. Tack opposite side. Apply flux and solder each pin.

[@jamesdavies686]

Voultar did a video years back on using hot air. It's by far the easiest method and doesn't rip traces. It's all I use anymore.

[@mizorenight3851]

Flush Cutters all the way for me, it is easy and doesn't result in heating up the capacitors or other components. Hot Tweezers seem like the "fancy" method, but seems a bit much, unless you recap like one console per week.

[@lyianx]

@navyvet84 That seems like far more of a pain in the ass lol.

[@thedesucomplex4365]

Thank you for more 'tutorial' style videos like this, it's helpful to have this more easily accessible

[@jcchaconjr]

I have to say, if you don’t have the tweezers or hot air station, the cut method is the safest overall, IMHO - even if you have a hot air station, I would definitely use Kapton tape around the components, just to be on the safe side, especially if you’re dealing with a board that has a bunch of other SMT components around the caps you want to remove.

[@turnofftheoverheadlight]

Definitely a great video and glad you made it. My extra, unsolicited input: Hot air can also cause some to pop if too long/not focused enough on the legs and next to a large ground trace that is soaking up heat. And smaller components like tiny resistors can benefit from being taped over with kapton so they aren't moved around with hot air and being careful of something like the adjustment wheels on a Nomad near some SMD caps that can get damaged from the hot air

[@Saand1338]

I recently recapped a GBC as part of a custom project (inspired by a couple of your builds Tito), and attempting a rocker removal the first time resulted in a torn pad on C32. I went and bought the cheapest Hot Tweezers on eBay to do the rest, which allowed me to remove the caps without any further damage to the pads. However, anyone considering buying a set, avoid buying the cheapest set and spend a little extra if you can. The set I bought are not precise tools; the tongs aren't in alignment and they have round tips reducing their ability to grip securely. In the end I had to have the hot tweezers in one hand with regular tweezers in the other, which was pretty unwieldy. I ended up with some cosmetic damage to the plastic of the cart slot near the C35 capacitor due to unsteady grip, so I think there's also some value in practicing with hot tweezers just like there's value in practicing soldering before delving into the main purpose of a project.

[@TooLazyToFail]

Good stuff! I've been the victim of that particular failure with hot tweezers. They are amazing for smaller surface-mount components, but I think there's just too much mass with the larger caps for them to work. I suspect that the correct play if you're going that route is to crank the heat and treat it like soldering near a lithium battery: Get in, get out. I like your flush-cut method! That'll be my go-to.

[@elpotato1226]

You're amazing dude, I was legit preparing to recap my OG Xbox! I really appreciate it

[@brauliogarcia1836]

Fantastic video Tito!! I didn't know all these methods. one of your best content :)

[@ScruffyLookinRGB]

Very informative video Tito. I have goofed up my fair share of pads. I'd say taking your time is just as important as the method you choose. Them hot Tweezers are really nice 👌

[@sergiojimenez3415]

Actually a well needed tutorial on here. Hats off!

[@Clarkzer0]

Would love to see a video behind the scenes, what cameras you use, tools (understand these are in description but just a show of your setup in general),how you setup shots of stuff rotating around almost like in free space, love the videos!!!

[@trinitybingham2406]

I love this type of video. I decided to take the leap a few months back and start modding old consoles, and your videos have been so helpful. Would you ever do a video on micro soldering? I really wanna do some of the mods I've seen you do, but I feel like I don't know the right way to approach it, or if there is a technique I'm not aware of?

[@toronaldaris]

@MachoNachoProductions - Some additional content that you could add to this video, maybe if you don't want to talk about them, point to other videos, or creator's videos that cover these things. - Which consoles are at the greatest risk of Capacitor Failure? - Which ones should not be turned on before replacing the caps to prevent further damage to the motherboards? - How does one go about gathering the caps they need to replace the existing ones, and including instances of not 1-for-1 part replacement I know your not like a full blown electronics channel, but saving these classic consoles is keeping preservation of video games alive!

[@Sega90s]

I’ve used 2 cheap soldering irons together to kinda flick the capacitor off the board . I’ve had the best luck using this method on even the most corroded pads.

[@ixiwixi]

I've done this with one soldering iron by quickly moving back and forth between the pads while applying inward pressure towards the capacitor and it just flicks off.

[@K3zster]

This video is very timely - I have been meaning to replace the caps on my BVM board but I am a little scared to remove all the electrolytics! I was thinking of grabbing some hot tweezers and this has me more convinced to do so. One risk I've heard of with hot air is that heating one area of the board can cause it to flex quite severely and possibly crack or damage traces even on inner layers of the board. I'm not sure how likely it is, but it is at least worth ensuring you preheat the entire board somewhat before focusing on a single area.

[@lalo2509]

Thanks for the tips, I need to replace all the caps from an old SNES because it has display issues.

[@TonySchiffbauer]

Im going to attempt to do the same! Any tips? What method did you use?

[@lalo2509]

The rocket method and flush cutters. Honestly it was easier with the second method. When I tried desoldering, I almost damaged part of the pcb, so I stopped and preferred using flush cutters. If you try rocket method make sure not hot to much the soldering iron.

[@PhilXavierSierraJones]

For twist-off method, press down hard then wiggle it back and forth as others have said. Worked every time, though you must take the before photo to compare your new parts against if you aren't using the recap kit.

[@James_D.]

Great video, as always.

[@MachoNachoProductions]

Thank you 🙏!

[@thebenalvarez]

This is so informative!

[@insultobot]

perfect timing!! I am about to do this on the instrument panel of my truck

[@BloodiTearz]

This reminds me of the Amiga 600 and 1200, as well as many other computers and consoles from that era. They often used inexpensive capacitors, so I always replaced them with either Panasonic, Sanyo, or Nichicon capacitors.

[@DieKatzchen]

I use a low-melt solder. Used to be hard to get by itself, but I just checked and you can get 4.5' for about $15. You apply a nice glob to the solder joint, get it nicely alloyed, and now it will stay molten for up to 30 seconds. Plenty of time to get all the pins liquid at once, then just lift the part off

[@andygoss3117]

I have a model 1 Sega Cd that was a pain in the butt to get the pads cleaned after removal of the caps. The solder braid wasn't cutting through until I used a section that already had a lot of solder on it, and it cleaned it really well! Now i can work on my 3DO next, lol.

[@The007JiMHD]

Hi Tito. I always loved the production in your videos, looks really pro. Do you know if there's a list or documentation on most common capacitors that need to be replaced or the average duration time? I own consoles since the 90s but i must opened maybe once or twice each in their whole lifetime for cleaning. Can't imagine people more casual than me who never open their consoles.

[@RGSPro]

After doing a new motherboards and using all of these methods other than the twist off method, im a fan of the flush cut off method.

[@apr2499]

Excellent video! Thanks for making it!

[@evancasper]

On the fence with twist off method, came off perfect. Favorite method, hot tweezer. It literally exploded. 😂 Noted

[@keybladeciel3716]

Certified Electroboom Moment. (Always wear eye protection, even if you wear glasses.)

[@MrCode4money]

I've never personally used it but I have seen a method similar to the "hot tweezer" method. Basically you wrap a piece of copper wire around the base of the cap so it is touching both legs. You then run the soldering iron over the copper wire which acts as a heat spread heating both legs at the same time. Could be useful in a pinch if all you've got is an iron (and some spare wire).

[@stazeII]

The rocking method for SMD caps is the most likely to lift pads in my experience. Good PCB’s are often okay, but cheaper PCB’s it’s almost impossible to not lift pads (especially on amplifiers where the board is subject to heating). Mr Carlson’s Lab does the twist method. It generally works pretty well since the pads are being pulled sideways rather than away from board. Any way you slice it, SMD caps are much more annoying to remove than through hole.

[@jakd.rabbit]

I had one of the Xbox consoles that was affected by the faulty clock capacitor, and this was way before I had some of the tools I have now, so I used a variation of the twist method for the damaged capacitor as Microsoft gives you plenty of room to wiggle the capacitor back and enough room to snap the leads that way. The issue was created by Microsoft being cheap and then being cheap also allows for the easiest solution. I've since replaced that Xbox with a better condition final run model (November 2004 model manufactured in Mexico) that wasn't affected by the faulty clock capacitor so I won't have to worry about it for some time hopefully.

[@scorcher617]

Like someone else said two irons easy if you’re not going to twist, I’m going to recap my old Metcal station what sucks is there through hole and my solder sucking gun runs of that unit so old school heat one pin pull to side pop then other luckily I have more than one iron good luck to you all watch them eyes he showed you why good video thanks

[@alexaguiar527]

Very Very Great!!

[@evancasper]

Just thought of an additional method. Use the hot tweezers to focus on the pads and needle nose to remove the capacitor. This would keep the heat off the can, while getting both contacts simultaneously. You could even use a twist motion to defeat the glue

[@Silky_boi]

Babe! Wake up! Tito just dropped a video!! ❤

[@marcwurth4448]

Very cool idea to make a dedicated video for that task ! Enjoyed your previous video as well. Is there any other indicator for a needed repair besides the corroded soder joints ? I have some gameboy/advance and thought. I just bought a full set of capacitor for each of them - just in case. Thanks again for the awesome video !😊

[@tambias]

Great video Tito,still too afraid to try and replace caps on my older devices

[@rvninngbear]

I almost always give them a quick twist with a little downward force. Have recapped dozens of GameCubes without issue this way. Heat (especially hot air) runs the risk of bad caps popping or exploding as you saw. Caps that leak usually have corroded their pads to a point where it’s difficult to work with the solder anyways when installed.

[@dodgydruid]

Actually pretty helpful as I have a Mega Drive 2 incoming to recap and I hates with a passion doing a recap as no point in hoping its been done and well even the best of 'em is prob on their last knockings lol

[@slot9]

Great video! I find it a bit funny that your preferred methods are safer for the pads, but maybe more dangerous for the human doing the operation XD

[@geraldv203]

@Macho Nacho Productions It's possible to be MUCH more gentle with the twist off method than the way showed : why twisting so much? You only need just few degrees, alternating clockwise and anticlockwise. Like that the mechanical forces are applied on the legs of the capacitor, thus their fatigue broke them, without touching the pads. On corroded solder it's even easier : since corroded solder alloy is brittle, it looks like you only have cold solder joints, you can even remove the entire capacitor and see the legs printed on the alloy like handprints ^^

[@Fuuntag]

I remember tracing & replacing “popped caps” way back in the day when just having a soldering iron made you feel like a bit of a boss. I’m not so fondly remembering all the lead solder I used and *inhaled* however 😂😮

[@BladeEXE67]

You should definitely be carefull with hot air and the time you take, you can see the cap bulging in the video at 4:12 . The most important thing is to make sure you don't heat up anything you don't want to and accidentaly knock something else off the board or melt plastic parts.

[@hemightbe]

Great video, thanks!

[@NinSonyFan]

Ok! Whatching this video i just remembered that my cr1616 batteries and the holders arrived today! Time to replace some game cartridges batteries!!

[@undyingtricstar8390]

LOVE YOUR VIDS!!!!!! can you make a ultimate console guide on the nintendo ds lite? i think that would make a great video

[@mathieuberthalay21]

Thank you for your video 🤩

[@mer2329]

if you have 2 soldering irons you can use the 2 as well. it works similar to how tweesers but is most definitely not as easy

[@Retroandrarevideogames]

If you are not experienced, please avoid using hot air as you will likely damage your devices. Use alcohol to loosen up the glue prior to removing.

[@falconmick]

Thanks

[@jasonk5979]

Nice timing. Thinking about recapping a somewhat failed dennon HDMI board. I like the look of the tweezers but don't like the price. Ouch. I may try cutting them. That seems to be the least stressful looking. At least for me.

[@KngKurd]

Twist back and forth, not just one direction, you will fatigue the legs of the capacitor. when twisting in one direction you do put a lot of strain on pads. I have used twist off method for all repairs and never broken a pad yet but it’s never too late😂😂😂

[@Clutch275]

HOT TWEEZERS ARE #1 for both Removing and Replacing small components.

[@luckywetland]

What kind of iron tips you're using? I hope if you could make a video about them and how to clean and maintain them.

[@hemightbe]

Could you do a video on removing things with adhesive? Like the window on a DS? Might also help with the glued caps.

[@Teknishun]

2:05 exactly how I pulled the pads on my ogxbox when recapping, had to do 2 trace repair. Be VERY GENTLE, doesnt take much force to lift a pad.

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

The lifting motion is pure perpendicular forces and that’s the exact force that rips the pads up! If there is any force, you only want horizontal shearing force that’s in the twisting method. And of course no force is always better but unless you have a jbc desoldering tweezers you can’t do that 😂

[@jairoalexandermaldonadogon2966]

Muchas gracias por compartir

[@alicereiji]

Twisting off in one direction is not recommended as it will also crack the foundation below. I have experienced this many times. Twisting it off in both directions multiple times is best. If you do not want to destroy it, you can warm one side and lift it up a little, warm the opposite direction and lift it up a little, and so on, lifting it up a little on each side, etc.

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

This is true. Tito loves to keep believing he’s right though so he won’t like your comment 😂 instead he does it the worst way possible to declare twisting = bad

[@Maharadja1611]

Amazing vid again man! I have a question, with wich type of caps would you replace them with? For GBA they now have different caps, but can you use those on the other sytems as well? Those new caps are meant to last longer right?

[@thebestSteven]

Man I have struggled to remove a lot of these. I'll clean them off, apply flux, apply a touch of new solder then use the solder sucker, if it isn't free after that I apply more flux and reheat while tilting the cap up (your rocker method) so that the leg lifts from the pad, and so often the pad will come off anyways. It kills me. I've been learning to repair pads, but it is so tough. I'm guessing it's something about the age of the GBP and GBC's that I'm working on that causes the pad to not be attached as securely as it once was. Something has degraded. I'm gonna try delicately cutting them next time.

[@DanielOliveiraViolao]

Great, dude!

[@rogerkaffer4274]

I'm new to this stuff, so sorry if this is a stupid question. Would it be possible to use a soldering iron on 1 pad, and twist at the same time to remove the legs from that pad, and then just simply use your soldering iron on the second pad since one leg is already removed?

[@unsaltedskies]

Low melt solder.

[@Azw3thinkw3iz]

I personally use the twist off method. The cut off method look’s solid as well but I’ve never tried it. I’d rather avoid blowing a cap so the hot air and tweezers methods are a no go for me 👍

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

Cutting is worst. It exerts perpendicular forces thats exactly what rip pads.

[@bloomerb4162]

Just make sure your flush cutters are really sharp.

[@gildardorodriguez4356]

I've used the twist method, but just twisting with my hand no pliers

[@jakd.rabbit]

8:14 What if you let some isopropyl alcohol soak the area for a bit for a moment? Every time Jerry Rig Everything tries to remove a phone battery that the manufacturer doesn't want removed, he soak the glue with isopropyl alcohol for a little while to weaken the glue's bond before ripping the battery out. I would think the same could apply here if you can get it wiggled up and leave enough room for the alcohol to get in there.

[@MachoNachoProductions]

That could potentially help. The glue on the pac-n1 is very strong

[@alsalzano3952]

What temp is the iron set for removal and replacement? Thanks

[@adamatomant3381]

Low melt solder is my favorite method. Add low melt to both sides. Then heat one side with the iron for a few seconds, then heat the other then remove it before it cools. This method also works with hot tweezers, but for the exact reason that you displayed, I don't like using them on known bad capacitors.

[@justinmohns8279]

Are you talking about Chip Quik? That stuff's amazing, but kinda pricey.

[@sypoth]

Tronicsfix uses a different method than these five. What he does is place the solder Wick on the capacitor leg then heats it with a wire letting it soak up most of the flux, he then switches sides and when that's done it is usually either removed or he can use his iron to easily lift each side. So similar to the rocking method but most of the work is done by sponging the solder with a wick.

[@jancriztler]

Wow

[@kokodin5895]

one method is missing low melt solder flooding where you add super low melting point aloy as a solder and it doesnt get cold enough to get hard while heating the other pad it could be iteration on the first method but easier

[@StephanieHua]

Do it on a Sega NAOMI. I hate that board so much. Just breathing on it will cause an error. Re-cap is the best solution

[@MakeDoor]

CSI Retrogaming wants your location.

[@Ludanc0]

My GBA is working fine, caps look good too, do I need to replace them just because the console itself is very old?

[@MachoNachoProductions]

If the console is working and the caps look good I don’t think there is a need yet. Plus GBAs are still relatively new and I haven’t heard of any bad caps on them. I still think there’s time for the gba

[@HybridDivide]

Tito, how the heck do you keep your soldering tips so damn clean? I get a lot of black (carbon, I think?) buildup on mine, except right on the edge. Maybe I'm not re-tinning them enough, or something? Hard to say. Tips would be appreciated!

[@yoitsgiook]

“SMD… ticking time bomb” 😏

[@mizorenight3851]

You don't want those caps run empty while you are at it.

[@yoitsgiook]

@@mizorenight3851 hahaha 😂

[@EinSwitzer]

last one. combo hot air and soldering iron .. NITR0 AMD SappHIRE out

[@AbeyantHero]

I had ZERO ides that tech needed to be maintained to that degree. Where would 1 go to get this service done on their old consoles if not confident enough to DIY?

[@jamesfrankiewicz5768]

I have a couple of retro video game stores in my area that can do it, but they might be in the minority that way. You might want to search for "electronics repair" in your area, or see if you can connect with any HAM radio folks (most like to repair and mod their own equipment).

[@AbeyantHero]

@@jamesfrankiewicz5768 Oh for sure, thanks! This community is really awesome & helpful. I have only done simple wire soldering for basic lights or mending animal chewing issues so this is all above my pay-grade🙏

[@Daudgrim]

At first I thought this was going to be a recap of an SMD (Sega MegaDrive).

[@Muslimsteel]

What temperature do you usually have your soldering iron set at for these type of repairs? Thanks!

[@PaulTheFox1988]

For me a temperature of approx 300-330c is more than ample for leaded solder, for lead-free you might need 320-340c, but I've stuck with 325c for about 4 years now and the only time I need higher temps is for large ground/power planes with lots of copper in them. Generally it's not so much about temperature as it is about thermal mass, the more thermal mass, the lower you can have your temperature (up to a point that is) and the easier you'll find it is to solder, so use a larger tip for when using solder wick/braid or on large masses of copper, and only use a smaller tip if there's space constraints preventing larger ones from being usable

[@MachoNachoProductions]

Depends on the application but typically 350C

[@jmssun]

Maybe using a hot tweezer with a thinner tip?

[@dannyjackson4294]

Can you do a pad repair video?

[@gluttonousmaximus9048]

Where do you find waste PCBs to freely practice your soldering stuff? I'm stuck with just a soldering iron for now and unless I settle down to a house I can set up a lab in (Not happening in years!!), I'll probably have to use hone my skills with this junk alone.

[@blackduncan9812]

What about snes games like link to the past. Should you replace the caps along with the battery?

[@retroanderson]

When i use the twist method, I actually twist back and forth and fatigue the leads rather than one big twist.

[@RetroRich91]

Fluxin love modding things

[@pavelstoikov3780]

for me this is the easy way to remove it 👌👌 3:09

[@Ben79k]

im glad you showed, but warned of the huge risk of physical methods of removal. its definitely not a great idea but if its the only way someone will recap their item, then so be it.

[@SmokedBarbecue]

6th method a second soldering iron plus extra hand