500V insulation test of a British General USB socket.

For those questioning why I tested resistance between Live and Neutral, a full test on a new installation should be done between L-N, L-E and N-E to detect if cables have been damaged during works. The only time N+L are bonded together and tested to earth is if there is an un-isolatable load. This is why I thought it a bit odd that it would mention protection against an insulation test and give a typical resistance. There's no ground reference on the USB module, so you would expect any test to ground to be off the scale. I wondered if the standby current was so low and component ratings so high that it would give a pass if only a few were on a circuit.
The test is definitely not a mains to USB output one as there is not any standard installation test that would even do that.
Maybe I'm out of date and they simply don't bother doing a L-N insulation test in this era of "Part P" 1-day/week electrical training and crash-certification for cash (The worst thing to happen in the entire history of the British electrical industry, and entirely motivated by profit.) But to me the L-N insulation test is important, since the others will trip an RCD/GFI at 30mA whereas a L-N circuit fault will require literally thousands of times higher current to activate protection.
This video was unexpectedly inspired by an email from Ruben mentioning a Thomas Nagy video where he was talking about doing electrical installation tests involving socket outlets (receptacles) with USB sockets. I had one of the same sockets awaiting our amusement so I dug it out and zapped it for our entertainment.
Here's a link to the Thomas Nagy video. He's a self employed electrician in London who makes good video content showing the daily working life of a London electrician.
• Kitchen Rewire 2nd Fix...
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of KZbin's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

[@freddyburger5574]

As a United Statesian, I must admit I've always admired the UK wall socket/ appliance plug design. I guess at 110v we don't have to be quite as careful with sleeved pins and lockout shutters, but really the UK design is just really respectably solid from an engineering standpoint.

[@saddle1940]

So many times I'm so keen on Clive's videos, that when they go off centre and something I want to see is off the top, I find myself reaching for the mouse to scroll upwards! I am very impressed by the design of this Bristish switched socket. So thoughtful and neat, it makes me feel bad using the ones in my home.

[@ninomanci3742]

Thanks Big Clive. I often don’t understand what you are actually doing, but you are compulsive viewing! You can’t help but smile! A great way to lighten a grey day!

[@TomOConnor-BlobOpera]

I've been looking forward to a Thomas Nagy / bigclive collab for a while. This is pretty close though!

[@daanwilmer]

I thought Thomas quite recently did a video with an Easter bunny, as a tribute to Mister Bun-bun's tragic Easter, however I can't find it. It would've been quite a good collab as well!

[@cjmillsnun]

He did... kzbin.info/www/bejne/mn2wo4Suas-ja5Y

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

The reference is actually at the beginning of the video, if anyone was confused.

[@toddt6730]

Tom O'Connor that would be really great

[@jyzoomer]

On my 2391 Electrical Inspection tester course, we were instructed that, like you say in your notes, this non-isolatable load requires that the only insulation test is between Protective Earth and bonded Phase/Neutral. You can't expect anything else.. you can't expect any load rated for a 230V supply to act appropriatey if you supply it with 500V (even high impedance source, current limited). That instruction on the course applied in that era specifically if you had circuits with neon indicators (on DP spur switches); you can do a phase to neutral insulation test, but its meaningless- so you can't do it! This must be applied the same to a USB power supply permanently installed in the electrical installation. Not only are the results not about your insulation resistance, but you're measuring the resistance of the load device; which is of no consequence in the Electrical Inspection, while the resistance PE to phase/neutral is exactly what you want to verify.

[@WaltonPete]

I'm glad you approve of the BG double mains sockets with integrated USB charger as that's the exact one I decided to install on my workbench. I don't use the USB feature all the time but it's very handy for my rechargeable USB microscope and a few other things with USB power inputs.

[@rarbiart]

never subscribed to a new channel so fast before! thanks bigclive for recommending Thomas Nagy!

[@rarbiart]

this guy is acting so normal, no fake drama, no bad acting, no effects, no endless self-grandisment... just showing honestly what he is doing. great to watch.

[@tncorgi92]

I recently stayed at a big chain hotel and noticed this type of outlet in the lobby. The USB jack had a crispy black spot around it. No one seemed to know the story behind that. I can only imagine...

[@tncorgi92]

Could well be, someone bought their cable at Dollar Tree (our version of Poundland). I hope they didn't do damage to anything expensive like a smartphone.

[@hipperbob]

Mike EL never seen that

[@SproutyPottedPlant]

Mike EL are cables like the ones off Amazon that cost £6 for a pack of 3 likely to be like that?

[@TheStwat]

Против Глобал In the lobby? lmao.

[@jameslaidler4259]

Paul Drake Only way I'd use one of these is if I knew the brand, and I installed it myself.

[@SparkyNinja]

I was just about to investigate this myself, so thanks for saving me the time. Also thanks for your comments and thoughts on the current state of the UK electrical industry post Part P 👍

[@DanstheEngineer]

SparkyNinja having just made a video on installing USB sockets I now want to take one apart and investigate too! I was never keen when they came out but clients including commercial request them all the time. Perhaps the demand is ahead of the maintenance and safety requirements like usual

[@donsaunders1585]

Hey Clive, love your vids. Here in NZ we too like the Swiss are taught at elec-chicken school to never do a Mohm test across L and N. In fact we are taught to short any phase present to N. ( Offline of course) and test to E. It is an insulation to ground test after all. Enjoy your work Best regards, Don 35 years in industrial elec-chickenry and automation.

[@liam3284]

L to N test will sometimes find a breakdown before it blows up, but beware the MOV.

[@Whigu]

I'm big fan of Thomas videos :-) I always learn something new from his videos and he is not too serious and not so full of himself like some other channels :-D

[@aaronletchford]

I have 2 or them sockets in the home and never have a problem was a interesting video well made (fantastic video like always Clive keep it up 👍🏻

[@gesamtszenario]

This is the very model of a modern socket general.

[@DarthAwar]

Good One!!!

[@gordslater]

and at 500 volts it shall be eminently testable

[@RobbOnTheRock]

Under rated comment!!!

[@peterbaum9367]

I really enjoy the designs of the UK-sockets. Here in Germany we do have sockets I'd call good, but the few extra features you got there are really nice!

[@matsuz100]

just bought from Amazon UNI-T UT658 USB Tester,Current Pester,Voltage Tester, Capacity Tester,Power Tester,Digital LCD Display £8.99 very handy tool. keep up the great videos Clive :)

[@truckerallikatuk]

@bigclivedotcom The voltage spec for the EU is 230v +10% -6%, which oddly allows the EU to stay at 220v, and the UK to be at 240v and still fit the spec. A typical "Make the spec fit what we're doing anyway" bodge. Would have cost a fortune to actually change it to 230v for no reason other than harmonisation.

[@MichaelBeeny]

The good old British safety socket did not fool me as a kid. I soon found how to open the safety shutters. That was when I found that 240 volts was best avoided. As you said Clive, a great way to learn. Something I still remember some 60 years on!

[@multilecful]

Match sticks in the earth brother haha works every time at a pinch.

[@robinwells8879]

Thank God you didn't condemn this as I have four of them fitted as bedside sockets for all the whole family. Mine happily charges an iPad and an iPhone simultaneously and has done so for a couple of years now. Glad to hear that the standby current is nice and low too. Cheers.

[@DanstheEngineer]

Brilliant video Clive. I haven't actually taken apart a USB socket yet but I have my concerns about them and have done since they came out. In my latest video I fit a few MK logic plus twin USB 2A sockets. When we install them we carry out insulation resistance testing without them connected. You can of course test at 250V but it isn't testing in accordance to GN3 so although I usually test at 250V first I wouldn't want people getting into habits of not testing generally at 500V. I always label the consumer unit / distribution board warning USB sockets are installed and the number of them.

[@KylesCarsYT]

Fitted this one of these exact sockets to my bedroom couple weeks ago. So far a good socket and charges both my apple watch and phone through the USB sockets well!

[@gordslater]

1:53 ( shouted, in a Dom Jolly voice ) " Hellooo! I'm on the calculator ! "

[@TheGreatAtario]

"NO, IT'S RUBBISH!"

[@JUANKERR2000]

3:32 - "...it's down to earth..." a rather unfortunate choice of phrase considering you are discussing insulation testing :-))

[@JUANKERR2000]

My reaction, too.

[@wavecreatures]

Awesome as always! Although I’m an Apple fanboy I still love that you slipped in the sideways dig...because let’s face it they are a snotty gaggle of clusters! 😂

[@elitearbor]

I chuckle every time you talk about the shutter safety feature on these outlets... "pushes the shutters down and exposes the bottom" is a hilarious phrase, no matter how accurate.

[@aaronletchford]

Nice Clive iv got 2 for the bg usb sockets, very interesting thanks 👍🏻

[@manganiphiri4331]

Awesome video as always.

[@dtvking]

Hi Clive, I see BG make a single 2.1A USB socket version with a WI-FI extender build in. Now that would be a good one to test and take apart. Great video, Many thanks

[@neosandi6]

tanx CLIVE . I LIKE YOUR INDIVIDUALISM . CONTINUE WITH GOOD WORK.

[@MStrickkk]

16:17 and the few second following. You're my new everyday hero.

[@CaffeinatedTech]

Well I got sod all done today, thanks Clive. I have however watched more than 30 of Thomas' videos though.

[@ShainAndrews]

I like the fact they retain the screws for the outlet on the back plate. In the states they are in yet another tiny bag and is generally the very first thing to go flying when opening the package.

[@rogerwilco5187]

I really think there should be a dedicated on/off switch included in these for the USB circuit, maybe with a bright red LED to remind you to switch off when not in use.

[@markgilder9990]

Hi Clive. You can do an IR test with live/neutral joined in parallel to earth at 500VDC. and make a note on the cert, sensitive equipment. Or you need to disconnect the electronics. Becomes really time consuming. Great vid. 👍

[@JimFortune]

You bought something made to British standards? How odd.

[@DonaldSleightholme]

i absolutely love the construction of this circuit, two main electrical bus bars underneath the circuit and then soldering a couple of wires onto it 🤔🚌😍

[@DonaldSleightholme]

i wouldn’t put it on my wall though 🤔😐😔

[@DonaldSleightholme]

two main bus bars underneath the circuit so insulation on that and soldering wire on 🤔🚌 🤔

[@AJB2K3]

Agreed, that is some nice looking engineering!

[@Tocsin-Bang]

I like MK stuff. Design and build quality are very good as is price. Never used one of their USB devices though. I also love Thomas's channel.

[@RaithUK]

Great vid Clive, i was wondering how that claim from BG was gonna pan out from Tom's Video... i love the Cross talk of you on his vids and u on his lol makes for some good viewing!

[@jort93z]

That might be the neatest usb power supply pcb i have ever seen. thats something like 1cm between mains and the usb port.

[@stevethomas5849]

It was 1983 we were learning about electricity in a physics lesson . So being an inquisitive 14 year old a duly disassembled the housing of my mother's 1960's pink plastic hairdryer. Wanting to see the motor running I thew the switch and the electrons decided to leave their normal path and use me as a new circuit. Shaking violently I did eventually shake free the hairdryer. The following day (Monday) I had physics and showed my teacher Mr Jowett the singed thumbs from my experience. Conclusion the electrical current entered my body via my right thumb because the insulated switch cover fell of during disassembly of the housing exposing the brass switch witch became live once thrown. The current travelled up my right arm across my chest and down my left arm and out of my left thumb holding the metal chassis . Of course these are the days of the BS 3036 Rewireable fuseboxs and MRr Jowett said I was very lucky. Thirty five years latter still playing with those electrons (under safe isolation) as a Spark.

[@hawaiiskjortaa]

Best part is where he presses the "AC" button on the calculator to make sure it knows there is an AC calculation about to be made

[@CTCTraining1]

Many thx Clive. Would be nice to see inside an expensive MK socket of a similar type just for comparison if you get the chance.

[@misterhat5823]

The 10Meg resistance would be from all mains terminals shorted to all USB leads shorted. It's the isolation from USB to Mains that is being specified.

[@rogerbarton497]

That spring loaded switch is the toggle in toggle switch. Many people mistakenly call the lever on a switch the toggle.

[@jonerasmus9399]

I enjoy all your vids. Would you mind consider making a vid on how to test a stove , thermostat , element etc. Basics

[@santiagopicco1397]

Some insulation test are done via hours of testing, because you have an initial current spike due to capacities between live a neural for example. Usually the resistance starts low and shoots up. The industry standard is usually 10 minutes isulation test with low ratio of 10 min resistencia/1 min resistance.

[@Tommyinoz1971]

In the office where I work, everyone has the 240v power outlet / USB socket combination devices on their desk. In the last year and a half (since the office was new), we have had 9 out of 30 of these USB sockets fail (or start to fail). They all have the exact same problem, the output filter caps bulge and start spewing their guts out. So I have been having some fun taking these devices home and replacing the capacitors. Every couple of weeks I find a new USB socket that is not working to specs so I think this is going to continue until I've fixed all 30 of them! The brand of capacitor that is failing for those that are interested is called 'ZTC' (with image of a bulls head on it). I don't know much about this brand of cap but I suspect they are seriously shit.

[@taliakuznetsova7092]

Tommy Oz Interesting... Do you think the capacitors are overheating or being overvolted in this application? I know alot of manufacturers use underrated components but could be like you said just shitty components.

[@jeremylister89]

For a 3.2A rated USB output, making a few assumptions, you need an output capacitor with 6amp Ripple current rating. This is massive, so you need either a very large capacitor or superior technology types such as polymer. Small 8x8mm polymer caps can achieve 4amp rating. The socket Clive is reviewing looks like it has 2 of these, so potentially up to 8amp rating.

[@DarthAwar]

Many USB Sockets are not secured in place very well inside the case also many have very very weak resistors and capacitors so a few small surges net alone a mild one will often kill them while this means you should not looses your tablet/phone so on you will have to have the whole socket replaced far more often I suggest most people get a quality power board (like a Belkin!) plug it into the regular socket and use it's USB ports if it has any otherwise plug in a decent USB charger port (Aukey, Anker, Belkin, Mbeats/Gorilla or anything Qualcomm Quick Charge rated!) or any that come with your device (Apple, Samsung, LG, Nokia, Google/Pixel all have great chargers!) into a surge protector * SO Mains Socket > Surge Protector > USB Charger after all better off safe than sorry a surge protector is 5 to 20 dollars/pounds a new charger is at least 25 pounds/dollars to 80 pounds/dollars and that is assuming the charger plug works right and fry's itself not the device it is plugged into! A few things I would like to see on incorporated USB Sockets that share Mains Outlets (By Law!) is a LED Surge Protection LED (as well as real surge protection!) as well as a On/Off LED indicator as well as both a switch for the USB as well as a socket cover/protector of some sort!

[@phonotical]

Focus! Thinking of getting one for by the bed now... Damn you clive

[@timfireblade]

I've been thinking of installing one of these behind my TV to power a chromecast and firetv stick rather than having a couple PSUs taking up sockets. I've been looking for reliable, well made version because as you rightly say it's always connected to the mains.

[@lawrenceplays]

I have been constantly watching Thomas recently

[@jfinnie78]

Love it... "almost be confident enough to install one of these in my house"...! :). I'm the same, just had a load of sockets installed and not a single USB plate installed. I wonder how many house fires are going to get traced back to USB wall sockets (although in fairness, probably not this one).

[@Bushougoma]

I don't see an optoisolator on that board so it must use primary side feedback that explains why the voltage regulation is a bit sloppy especially at no load. Granted it was within the +-5% tolerance I guess that allowed them to shave off a few cents in the BOM. Look at that copper pad and the thermal vias above the schottky diode to dissipate extra heat a nice touch. That's a far cry from that external USB charger where the poor diode was literally being roasted.

[@jeremylister89]

Bushougoma. They use a diodes Inc PSR control chip with deliberate feature of cable compensation

[@Eis_Bear]

As a young child I once removed a lightbulb from its edison-style fitting and put my finger in it, I learned about electricity that day. The shock scared me, but I got fascinated as well.

[@BillyNoMates1974]

Good to see what a good USB power supply is. Big Clive is great at showing us the really shitty ones I was beginning to wonder what a good USB power supply is

[@DarthAwar]

A few things I would like to see on incorporated USB Sockets that share Mains Outlets (By Law!) is a Decent Surge protection as many have shit protection (a few minor to mid surges and the USB socket in outlets are normally dead this is meant to protect your devices but cost you a fair bit to get replaced!), LED Surge Protection light as well as a Power On/Off LED indicator as well as both a switch for the USB on/off as well as a USB socket cover/protector!

[@tjb4030]

just sayen hi to everyone here I'm a new sub and really enjoy bigclives vid and have learned a lot too. I'm from Oregon USA. with 120 volt mains in my walls. LOL

[@mortlet5180]

I think the insulation test was referring to poking something into the USB socket and having >10MegOHM between you and live. Also, could I just be the first to point out something horrible about that circuit board assembly: The mounting of the electrolytic capacitors! This isn't some cheap chinese knockoff, I can't believe that they would violate the poor electrolyte seals like that!

[@daanwilmer]

I had the same idea about isolation testing: you test whether voltage goes where you don't want it to go - of course there is current between live and neutral, you just don't want any high voltage able to break through to your USB port.

[@stefantrethan]

Mounting electrolytic capacitors horizontally is just fine as long as you bend the leads properly with a tool and not directly at the rubber. You can even buy the caps with pre-bent leads as an option from the top tier brands.

[@Motorman2112]

The insulation test is to test the installed wiring inside the walls of the building, and any permanent fixtures such as sockets. There are not supposed to be any devices connected when you do this, but these complicate matters by being a device that is part of a socket.

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

MRLT On the other hand, I'm not so sure about the decision not to ground the USB circuit to the supposedly reliable grounding of the house wiring (it's not like being a circuit in an appliance that might be plugged into a power strip that is plugged into an ungrounded supply, thus exposing the user to ground faults in other appliances.

[@stefantrethan]

With a properly built class 2 device that has reinforced insulation adding the earth to the USB sockets would not make it safer. It would also provide a path for ground loops and leakage current that might be annoying. Everything is moving away from class 1 earthed equipment to class 2 double insulated, for good reason in my opinion.

[@BradTech.]

I love all those gadgets you have lol

[@4nth0nyw]

@16.25 That's some parenting hahaha! Love it!

[@Astaldoath]

I like your voice clive it makes me feel like im in norway or back in the viking times

[@sadiporter2966]

nice to see what is inside these BG usb power sockets as I have 2 of these, mine support 3.1amps though instead of 2.1amps.

[@edwardst94]

Glad you like them, I recently replaced all my sockets in my house with the 3.1a varient of these BG sockets. I was a bit weary of having electronics running 247 inside the wall but I decided to pull the plug anyways as a lot of places use them. Would you like me to send you the 3.1anp variant for your to look at?

[@charlieshooter]

What's everyone's thoughts on the LAP sockets Screwfix sell? I've done a video on how to install a USB socket and used LAP.....it looks very similar on the reverse to the BG one.

[@jeremylister89]

CharlieShooters KnowHow it's the same. 3.1 a version has synchronous rectification to maintain efficiency

[@charlieshooter]

Jeremy Lister I thought it looked familiar! Cheers.

[@ufohunter3688]

Very interesting to see the details of a British socket. Much heftier than we have in Canada which is identical to the American sockets. Thanks. One thing I've always wondered is; what type of metal do they use for the contact points? I know the best is platinum like the old distributor caps from old cars before electronic ignition became popular, but that would be way too expensive. So would using tungsten. So what would they use in a high quality switch?

[@hobbified]

Socket & See is a *brilliant* name.

[@dj_paultuk7052]

I watch Thomas too. Really good channel.

[@avejst]

Nice to see, Thanks for sharing :-)

[@pmburke1973]

" The earth pin must be solid metal (although moulded plugs intended only for two wire applications may have a completely insulated pin). “Sleevesshall not be fitted to any earthling plug pin.” Having a sleeve on an earth pin is dangerous because it can prevent there being any contact to the earth of the socket." " Sleeved Pins - or lack of. All plugs sold in the UK in the last two decades havesleeved pins. Half of the live and neutral pins are insulated with plastic, so that a plug partially inserted into a socket does not become a shock risk. "

[@PaulSteMarie]

Those ground contacts are making pretty minimal contact with the ground pin. If they had a larger contact area then the Chinese sleeved ground pins would be fine. For example, something folded over to slide along the entire length wouldn't have the problems encountered with only having a little p-shaped bend,

[@uzaiyaro]

Seems like more and more power supplies are moving towards solid capacitors on the output these days. Especially in USB hubs, if you can believe that. I wonder if this makes them more efficient or better at filtering.

[@quertize]

It actually is really nice.

[@gw4838]

I would suggest the way the test for phase to neutral insulation. Would be to disconnect the electronics where it connects to the neutral. To simplify if you plugged in a table lamp and the switch was on, and carry out a phase to neutral insulation test. you would be measuring the resistance of the lamp. The electronics is part of the load and as you have found you are measuring the resistance/impedance of the circuitry.

[@dant5464]

Aldi are currently selling sockets like these for £7.49, but claiming 3.1A. From what I can see through the back of the packaging it appears very similar to the one in the video, including the dot matrix printed black text on the back. Not brought one as I also don't fancy permanently wired electronics bar things like the alarm and central heating.

[@CanizaM]

That's 300k discharge resistor for the reservoir cap on the primary. The quoted >10M is between primary and secondary.

[@bigclivedotcom]

There's no install test that does a test like that.

[@mcomiskey7]

Don't see enough love for the purple Sharpie, We need to fix that!

[@Modna89]

I would test it again without the cable on it. You had the live and neutral both touching the bench. Depending on the material of your bench and any contaminants on it just that contact can give a much lower reading than usual.

[@gutsngorrrr]

Would be interesting in comparing this with and MK unit to see it the MK are worth the extra money or not.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Mark Wallis Some of the mk ones (like their euro module) claim they switch off via a micro switch with no usb plug inserted. Not sure where in the circuit the switch is, though.

[@dg2908]

I enjoy Tom's channel too. I've got a recent 2 gang MK one here that was half price in Screwfix as the box was missing. If you want it Clive, drop me a message I'm an electrician; I've never installed USB sockets, I have removed a couple for a customer as they were making whining noises at only a few weeks old. I agree Clive that I'd much rather use something I can unplug easily- my go to for reliability is the IKEA Koppla that you reviewed before. I was intrigued recently to discover the MK Euro module ones that switch off, but the deep back box puts me off... www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/MK/MKK5837_Info.pdf Could really do with something IR test proof, 25mm back box compatible and silent though- it helps prevent all sorts of dodgy chargers turning up in community venues and offices. Maybe a 1 gang plate with a 3A BS1362 fuse and two USB sockets. Pop the fuse out when testing, job done

[@StrathpefferJunction]

David Gill When I fit them, I've either used the mk euro module one or I use a click euro module with a switch module adjacent for isolation. I don't like the ones built into sockets.

[@DanstheEngineer]

In some respects I think the MK are better build but the BG design is better. It's a tough call but couldn't necessarily way they are worth the money although I think MK logic looks better (my opinion obviously).

[@dg2908]

just had a look at the Scolmore Click ones; they don't instil much confidence in me- the switch and USB modules only have a 1 year warranty!

[@MickeyD2012]

I never noticed that one before, Socket & See, ROFL.

[@prjndigo]

Suggest you re-test that outlet and see if it can provide 2.1 PER port. The voltage being low at the start is about the control circuit staying low for discharge to keep from loading the port like a ladder.

[@TigerP1]

Kids sticking things in the live terminal? It's true, That's how I learned about electricty.

[@phantom62]

Haha I went one further when i was 7 years old and put cables in the socket, connected to what must have been a low voltage rating bulb. It exploded, with flames coming out the wall. Burnt the carpet and fused every fuse in the house. My father did electronics as a hobby and wondered why everything had fused. Mum never told him until some time afterwards haha.

[@MrPGT]

I learned with a Meccano (Erector Set) screwdriver. I thought I was caught, because it felt like someone slapping their hands on my shoulders from behind. Maybe about 7 or 8 years old. Those shutters only keep out the amateurs and the uninterested. ;)

[@vgamesx1]

One time I saw a spark after plugging something in which somehow gave me the idea to stick my fingers between the prongs and plug it in, US plugs are so stupid...

[@MrPGT]

At least they are 110 Volts instead of 240, so that makes them a bit less dangerous, @vgamesx1.

[@TigerP1]

When I was at uni we used to cook sausages by connecting them directly to the mains supply. we found knives made the best contacts snd forks would ark too much

[@AlexEatonPDPIGaming]

Could you do the same test on a Mk USB socket to see how they compare. That PCB did look nice, great video.

[@maicod]

Clive I see you change meters depending if you want the meter's test leads to have probe or croc ends. Why not buy a couple of extra test leads with either croc or probe ends so you can just change them out in the meter ?

[@robertsteich7362]

A little off subject, but does concern the receptacle you have there. Here in North America, our receptacles have the ability to be electrical isolated from each other. From the looks of this one, it does not. The most common application for a receptacle to be isolated is to have one always on, and the other to be switched by a switch or two. Example would be a living room, where the bottom would be always on and the top be switched. Because it's code to have a switched light in every room. And living rooms typically did not have lights installed by the electrician. Sooo switched outlets were allowed. An other application is to have two different breakers service the same receptacle. Example would be a food disposal under the kitchen sink and then the dishwasher. Both will be serviced by the same receptacle, but each have their own breaker. I'm curios to know if there are receptacles that can be electrically separated.

[@johnschlesinger2009]

Thanks for anninteresting video. I far prefer MK sockets. They have double pole switching. The one you tested is single pole.

[@PaulDve]

I bought some sockets from Amazon, from UK and I spilt orange juice on my usb output end. It sizzled and boiled the orange. I suspect it has a 240v in usb somewhere.

[@sparkyprojects]

I'm with you about having electronics in the wall, could cause a fire, or at least discolouration of the wall, there's no way to easily turn it off, if you have a few of these in the home, it's always consuming power, so energy use and cost goes up. I think i saw an early version of this type of socket where there was an accessible fuse in the front for the usb, that would have made it easier to test..

[@Monkeh616]

Yup, that 72mW gets really expensive. Over a few centuries.

[@dh2032]

if this becomes the new standard wall socket It all adds up, watching your electric meter moving with nothing in your home but 20+ USB socket switched on all the time

[@cbcdesign001]

Even with 20+ sockets its still less than 15W or 0.00225 pence per hour at 15 pence per KWH. Worrying about tiny amounts of current in standby is ludicrous.

[@gs425]

@@cbcdesign001 and the main argument against the "standby scrooges" is that any energy consumed isn't "wasted" as is often said, it simply adds to the heat in your home, which in the UK we do need for most of the year. Therefore my argument is that energy saving devices only save money in summertime!

[@lolwut1337n355]

That calculator is bloody huge!

[@m101ist]

The bigger the better.

[@ZilinaSK]

Which particular model of socket were you testing? I've been tempted to install a few of these sockets in the kitchen but like you I'm not keen on permanently installing active electronics which are permanently connected to the mains. With the fuse this USB mains socket makes me feel it’s a better choice than some of the junk around. Thanks for another great video :)

[@bigclivedotcom]

Not sure the specific model, but it's a British General socket.

[@michaelparker2449]

I bought 2 wall sockets like that from Amazon which is just a cheap unbranded thing and even with no load draw they only put out 3.9-4.0v.

[@misterhat5823]

The reason why the voltage is lower at no load is because the switcher goes into "hiccup" mode to save power. It'll deliver a few bursts of pulses and then turn off until the output falls to somewhat below normal. This means that it can meet the EU standby power directive by consuming next to nothing at no load.

[@RavenLuni]

The rocker mechanism that doesnt ever go back together again (so I found when replacing a light switch recently)

[@khronscave]

10:20 Ok, that's marginally impressive. "Credibly"-sized transformer, polymer electrolytic caps on the output? Who would've thunk?

[@rickybobby8563]

That's how I learned about electricity!

[@Plan-C]

Thanks for uploading this. I bought one ages ago and have been umming and ahhing about whether to install it. I just put it on the scope and with a 1a or 2a load it shows about 150mv of ripple! That is worse than the crappy Chinese USB brick that I retro-fused and swapped the zener for a 431 in lol (although that was just an experiment and I don't plan on using it much)😂 What is fair ripple on a USB power supply?

[@IftikharAhmed-lk5yk]

10 M Ohms isolation resistance is between primary (live side) and Secondary (USB) side.

[@lumpyfishgravy]

I feel a strong affinity with this post. BG Electrical were based in my town not long ago; their downtown site is a nascent skate park and we made some test gear for their Fluoro starters. And you're using a DIT400 running my software. Ancient but watch out for the Kewtech upgrade with "Breakdown Mode". You'll enjoy that. But now. I'm no leccy but would approach a USB outlet in PAT mode, and take "insulation" to mean L+N to E. Why assume L to N? DIT400 S/C current at meaningful voltage is about 1.6mA. So 0.29M is ~464V. The answer why you're seeing more current than the mains case is because the electrolytic is breaking down. Why not hoik it out and see?

[@bigclivedotcom]

It's odd that they specifically mention it in the leaflet with the socket. If doing a new installation I would do all three checks L-N, L-E and N-E unless there was some unremovable load between L-N. But I would hope that any test between L+N and earth would be off the scale on one of these sockets, so why specifically mention it and indicate a value.

[@thany3]

I wonder how long it'll be before we see sockets like that but with USB type-C and a modest something like 40W or more via USB power delivery. So folks can use it to charge a Dell XPS, a new Thinkpad, or a macbook.

[@toddt6730]

I watch Thomas Nagy all the time he's great

[@guitarstitch]

The UK standard of wiring looks so much more robust than that of North America.

[@DragonBuilds]

It sure does. I am in the US and once a power outlet exploded because a piece of metal fell onto two prongs. The outlet was blackened and there was a big shower of sparks.

[@b.hagedash7973]

I'm surprised, I would have thought that because many of your houses are made of wood that US wiring would be much beefier.

[@jaycee1980]

We have 32A ring mains, so it kinda has to be robust. Sleeving on our plug pins has been mandatory since at least the 80s i think. We also now mandate RCD (GFI) protection on all socket circuits

[@tbelding]

I do a lot of networking work, and that also ends up requiring me to work with various power supplies and wall current. The constant belittling of US standards shows a lack of knowledge of history of the subject. The US was _the_ origin point for the technology war between various current types, phone types, wire standards, and just about everything other than the railroad (that was Britian and Europe). We started at 100 volts nominal, and ended at 120 volts nominal, for household A/C current. Plugs were designed with this in mind. The original plugs were two pieces of flat metal that were folded in half to create a rounded tip, then soldered at the back to a wire, and inserted through a plug. (I've seen _wooden_ ones from very old equipment) The two sides were _exactly the same_, as were the outlets. There was no polarization indication. Later, they widened one side to indicate polarity, and added a round hole for a horseshoe shaped bent piece of flat metal to create a ground. (flat, then put on a mandrel and stomped into a U shape) _Lots_ of buildings were created with the original one. The house I'm in had non-polarized outlets, and it was built right after WW-II. (they've been upgraded since then, but I forced them to come back and add grounds when they put in grounded outlets without actually grounding them) Unlike Britain, which both didn't have power in many houses until long after the Tesla/Edison wars, and had to completely rebuild their cities after WW-II, the US couldn't tell everyone that they had to use a totally different set of wiring, outlets, plug types, and so forth. There's too much existing infrastructure. Now, if one of you complainers wants to convert your house to British style plugs - go for it. Nobody will stop you, and you'll probably pass all the normal code checks. You'll simply have to put new cables on every single piece of equipment in your house. Now, if you want to run 240 volt into the house, you'll have to change it at the breaker box with a transformer assembly, and you _will_ violate code in many residential locations. If you REALLY want safety, put in three prong twist lock plugs on all of your equipment. Frankly, the number of people that electrocute themselves with power outlets and by sticking their fingers between the prongs while plugging it in? Most of them deserve the shock, and as Clive put it - kids learn. I got my first shock in elementary school - I was feeling around behind a cabinet, and someone had apparently broken off the prongs of a plug in the socket, and they just put a cabinet in front of it rather than pulling out the broken bits. So I got a nice zap.

[@tbelding]

@RiceFlavoredGum - if a piece of metal crossed the prongs on an UK outlet, you'd be seeing even BIGGER bangs. Grounding is meaningless when you short circuit the connection.

[@pizzablender]

0.3 mA standby current, probably at the peak voltage (330 volts?) is about 100 milliwatts of standby power.

[@andygozzo72]

surely that 10meg test would be from live to usb out, not across mains input as of course there would be a low ish load across l and n ...??