500W CNC Spindle Test

[@nikodembartnik]

Support my projects on Patreon → www.patreon.com/nikodembartnik

[@nikodembartnik]

@Samantha Briggs 2mm, single flute

[@roryduncan1534]

For those saying he is spinning too slow, it comes down to surface speed and feed rate. Appropriate surface speed varies per material. Feed rate ensures that you actually produce a chip without "burnishing" the material.. This causes excess heat, and short tool life. High RPM means high feed rates. High feed rates means more torque for your steppers, more tool pressure, and therefore more stiffness required in the gantry and such. It is all a design tradeoff... I like the video and I have always wondered about the air cooled spindles.. I have one of the chinese water cooled ones, and even at max RPM they are nearly silent.

[@danielaaroe]

Hi Nikodem, On a side note. You should definetly use a dust mask when milling MDF. It releases som toxic fumes(urea-formaldehyde) and also a lot of fine dust/particles. Also you should consider a ventilation system to ventilate the toxic fumes. One option is to enclose it and use extraction on the enclosure. Preferably leading the fumes/particles outside. Other than that, great video :) Daniel

[@mattivirta]

NOT need if have dust vacuum head make to spindle.

[@stephanguilloux3023]

Now that you have a pretty good CNC machine, you should try to start milling alluminium parts to replace the 3D-printed parts. You should have better results, as aluminium should be a lot more stable (even with the dremel).

[@muskokamike127]

and beef up those steppers.....nema 17....EEEK....

[@davidfarmer]

try to get some cast iron, it should be easy to mill, and much more vibration damping.

[@Kilisei]

Thats what i did First

[@alanalvarez7811]

Great video. I can't wait for you to make a bigger CNC with rugged construction like you mentioned at the tail end of the video. :)

[@widgget]

you want to use a down cut, or compression endmill on wood so you do not rip the edge upward. this will result in a much cleaner cut. i also find with MDF both of these end mills leave the perfect amount of dust packed into the cut to hold a 1/8" profile cut in place without any tabs or tape to secure the cutout portion. some woods might work well with a straight flute endmill also. For Acrylic you want an upcut so that the material is pulled out of the cut otherwise is will melt back into the channel metal, an upcut is normally desired as you want to remove the material from the cut to prevent binding issues. Totally awesome job on the builds. One thing i was thinking is maybe you could come up with a sleeve that would go around the jacket, or even coil some copper tube around the body of the new spindle (CPU thermal paste too?) and use a small water pump to cool it like the industrial CNC units ;)

[@kfreed1219]

Part of the problem with the wood appears to be the Endmills being used. You may want to use a down cut end mill with wood and use a upcut for aluminum.

[@PiefacePete46]

I totally agree. Other factors are, I think, the MDF Nikodem used is not great quality; lots of fibre and not much resin, and the wood wasn't great either. It would have looked even better with a downcut bit, some nice wood like carvers use, and free-machining aluminium such as 6061. I don't think it's rigid or powerful enough for a compression bit. Great little machine to learn from, but like a lot of people, I am really looking forward to his new design.

[@TheRainHarvester]

I have a video where I show using blue tape, and how well it cuts (I use upcuts).

[@MrNlce30]

You should sell a kit of the Dremel CNC. I'm sure people would buy it. Great video. Keep up the good work.

[@privatebubba8876]

Sell the code. 3D printing is too slow.

[@christophergrove4876]

I like how Ryan at "Mostly Printed CNC" does things. He's open source, but has a store for parts if people wish to buy parts. People buy other parts from him if they wish and print their own printed parts.

[@marcotronic]

Thanks a lot for sharing your experiences with this spindle! I'm also about to build my own CNC machine with this 500W spindle. Good to know I have to envision something more stable than I originally thought. :)

[@teddly2277]

I've had experience with DIY CNC machines, I've picked up some broken leafblowers and repaired them to make an extraction hood. If it pleases you, you can also attach a heat sink and use it as a method of cooling the spindle

[@barabasj]

Great video....A new project with Nema 23 motors sounds very good! Thanks a lot!

[@nikodembartnik]

Thanks! I hope so, this will be something special :)

[@mattivirta]

nema 23 have cnc minimum motors can working good, no lost step. and torgue better minimum 3Nm

[@henning9201]

so nice that you build this! as I saw your Dremel CNC video I was so impressed and started to build my own! then I see the same spindle on banggood and buy it! I don't have all the parts for my CNC machine but in maybe 2 months my machine is ready to mill! Thanks for the Tipp to use Nema 23 Motors!

[@AndrewGillard]

No one's mentioned emissivity yet? :P You can't just point an IR thermometer at a reflective surface (such as the aluminium clamp for your spindle) and expect to read anything close to an accurate temperature. In fact, with surfaces as reflective as aluminium, you're mostly going to be seeing the temperature of whatever's reflected in it! (eg yourself, the rest of the room, etc.) Those thermometers only give accurate readings from totally matte black surfaces (but anything that isn't shiny will be fairly accurate). Btw, you can get more powerful NEMA 17 stepper motors than the ones you're using there - you don't necessarily have to jump up to NEMA 23 :) E3D have a number of different NEMA 17 motors, including their "Super Whopper" motor. I don't know how easy it is to find those on AliExpress, though...

[@coltonmccormack8978]

Agreed. NEMA 17s can easily drive a small machine like this. They have 92oz/in motors at the high end currently. A quick search for "NEMA 17 92oz" will find a bunch of sources.

[@rickarddt]

We know.. those of us that know just shake our heads and let them be. Those cheap thermometers are all 0.95.

[@d.i.d]

So next step up should be spindle with 43mm collar like Kress or last Mafell FM1000 :) Then you can use thicker cutters 8-10mm. Good luck! ;)

[@nikodembartnik]

For that I need bigger and stronger CNC. Maybe I am already working on one :) Thanks!

[@garyprice3757]

Disable microsteps with the other lead screws. Also use a higher voltage with the steppers.

[@speesy]

i think people have done tests and there is little loss of torque with microsteps (at least with drv8825).. plus it is quieter with more microsteps..

[@GrandeCalle]

@@speesy but u dont need quiet motors if u have a noisy spindle attached, i mean its not a 3D printer anyway. so dont use microsteps or you lose torque you need for accuracy.

[@speesy]

@@GrandeCalle yeah.. i guess you're right :) mo noise mo powah ;)

[@Mcvanilla83]

i got the same spindel and i loving it. I mill alu and acryl glas for pc distro plates and never had an issue!

[@ArcAiN6]

For better results, and less "tear out" use down-cut spiral / rotary bits for wood. For machining metals such as aluminum, it's better for hobbyists to use single flute end mills, this will allow you to run the spindle at higher speeds, and still maintain a decent chip load. It's also a good idea to use coolant with hard metals, and lubricants / lubricating coolant with soft metals. Soft metals such as aluminium will gum up in the flutes, and can "chip-weld" themselves to your end mill. This will eventually result in a broken end mill. All that said.. I think what you're doing is pretty neat. Keep it up!

[@AndersJackson]

I have also seen people using alcohol to lubricate aluminium. So that is also good to know.

[@fespinosa434]

Im building a way larger machine than yours but I am also building a smaller machine like yours and appriciate you taking the time to compare both . Thank you

[@xConundrumx]

Problem with this spindle is RPM is too low for my taste ... Especially for PCB engraving it just seems to fall short. Also the shaft can get bent a little too easy. One stalling bit and your motor shaft is bent making it useless. But with all that said they do have a niche for which they work quite ok. Trespa and wood engraving/machining ... works just fine. I would consider using the new Mafell with quick toolchange handle. High speeds, 1000 watts, the toolchange thing works great, especially if you invest in a few extra toolholders which would speed up changing bits even more. You can use the toolchanger with adapter sleeves or with a toolholder (and collet) so that you don't have to even use any wrenches at all when changing bits during the milling process. The only thing I regret about the mafell is that it doesn't have an ER20 toolholder mechanism (I think max thickness for the Bit is 8 mm, would be better if it could cope with ER20 and 12 mm bits). Waiting myself on the follow up version that is rumored to be coming soon with the quick tool change and a 10v PWM input (as opposed to a dial knob on the current version). Also sounds like they will make the power cable detachable. Edit: btw your heat problem is most likely due to the fact that you were running it at low speed. The fan for cooling is attached to the same shaft as the toolholder. So ... less cooling at lower speeds. You could use an independent fan (12v blower would work good too) and remove the original one on the shaft so that the fan always runs at max speed even if the spindle does not.

[@roryduncan1534]

I would be very surprised if a 1/8 or even 1/4 bit stalling could bend a 1/2" steel shaft.. First the nema 17s dont have enough stank to do that, but I would expect the cutters to snap before bending the shaft.. I sure have broken enough on my 1500W spindle..

[@xConundrumx]

Rory Duncan well I have one of these spindles with a bent shaft to prove it. Mind you my small scale cnc does indeed have nema23’s. But I was making the comment on the basis of my own experiences with it. And no the cutter did not snap. It happened when my machine was still using some godawful tb6550s Controller. A board with known issues on the optocouplers causing it to miss steps like mad. Which it did for me causing the cutter to plunge into a part of the stock that was nut supposed to be removed while at about 2 cm depth. The cutter stalled, the nemas kept moving, for a few seconds after the cutter stalled and the spindle was toast. Thats when i threw this abomination driver board out and got a pokeys57cnc board.

[@ArmstrongMixture]

You can use dremelcnc to make aluminum parts for bigger 500w cnc, then use that to machine steel parts for even bigger cnc!

[@arsaeterna4285]

Your glasses are DOPE european glasses are always so dope, spanish and italians like big thick frames, germans like those transparent frames and this one is cool and thin, dope : )

[@evandenenden]

Your Dremel cnc machine is a nice one, stick to it. I would like to comment on your use of a 500 watt spindle. - Lowering spindle RPM with the same feeding speed is increases (not decreasing) the cutting forces dramatically - Seen the wood chips and burrs your guiding rods are bending (vibrating). Be careful here, if rods are coming in own frequency, bad things do happen - When using heavier spindles please consider THK or similar linear guides on a solid base Good luck Nice job so far

[@imqqmi]

Getting rid of the brass nuts and 3d printed parts will stiffen up the chc allowing for faster feedrates and cleaner results. Check out delrin anti backlash blocks. Not expensive yet still quite good. Use compressed air to bliw away aluminium chips, that prevents gumming up the endmill. Using aluminium extrusions as frame is a step up, alliwing you to use bigger spindles and nema23 steppers. Cost quickly add up the more high quality parts you want to use like linear bearings and ballnut leadscrew and nuts.

[@MadHatter123456]

Those spindles usually have a lot of axial play, that's why I wouldn't use it a spindle. As a motor for a dedicated spindle, those are awesome.

[@wangouthangout]

I think you need to mount a vacuum onto the cnc near the bit. With all those chips building up it'll retain much more heat and the airflow caused by the vacuum will help to cool it.

[@dbs777229f]

Can't wait for the next one. Thanks for your videos

[@nikodembartnik]

Thanks!

[@clanross62]

Have you checked the spindle rotation direction, also you seem to be routing with the spindle a bit slow.

[@wes6244]

😂 I love your enthusiasm and curiosity. “It’s beginning to sound like a new project. 🤔 Maybe!”

[@privatebubba8876]

Who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@jimidjoriginal9295]

Dude i love your CNC machines and it's trully the reason i am subbed to you :P keep up the good work

[@nikodembartnik]

Thanks :)

[@jackcarbels306]

C’mon build a new CNC. Use yours to recreate the 3D printed parts. Keep going, nice vids

[@naidol]

You are a bright young lad. Well done. Try a compression bit or straight cutter for ply or mdf. Will yield a cleaner cut without those furry burrs. Also, if your budget permits, don't waste time with air cooled spindles....water cooled runs longer and less heat and noise. I speak from experience as I have a grave yard of watse-of-time low cost fan cooled spindles.

[@mattivirta]

water cooler spindle have out of hobby user budget wery expensive than air cooler spindle. same stepper motor/ closed loop servo out of normal hobby user budget. stepper cost about 300$ servo closed loop 10X more, same spindle 500W air cost less than 100-130$ and water cooler ower 500$ no option hobby budget newer.

[@timothyreyes5392]

The vibration on your new spindle is caused by the cooling fan on top, I 3D printed mine and balanced the fan and the vibration is gone.

[@flopesff]

How can you do this?

[@timothyreyes5392]

@@flopesff Thingiverse is your friend hahaha

[@pen25]

Another awesome video. One day I'm going to get my cnc running properly

[@rich7934]

Suggestion put the CNC on soft plastic foam board (similar to packing used to ship 3D printers and Desktop CNCs) That should kill the high speed noise. Maybe 40-50 Durometer rubber would work.

[@speesy]

you can try two motors on each side of the leadscrew (turning in opposite direction!).. so eventually have 2 for x and 4 for y.. get motor driver extensions and drv8825 for higher violtage.. maybe 48mm deep nemas.. nice project btw :)

[@pedrojoao3468]

For wood you do want high rpm to cut, for metal is the oposite

[@michaelkelly3158]

Depends on the metal, and the feed rate. Take a look at Datron's machines - IIRC they use 60K RPM spindles and machine aluminium at a ridiculous rate. Mighty impressive!

[@pedrojoao3468]

@@michaelkelly3158 Yes, ofc. I'm just saying that you never want low rpm for wood, just leads to bad cuts

[@bruce9948]

Ya I’m looking at building my own CnC with 4080 aluminum frame the project is going to cost around $1,200 to build as I’m making a 12”x18” cut area and I’ll also have my American made 10 watt L-Cheapo diode laser mounted on the front of the spindle

[@bruce9948]

I bought my frame material from 80-20.com

[@yohabi]

I read cnczone all day long today to find the way of EMI preventing. What about your experience?!? This crappy brushed DC spindle makes so many problems to PC, CNC control board, inductive endstops...

[@yohabi]

Joe Anon Brushless motors are a better solution. But i don't want waste much money niw since i've baught brushed motor already, and i hope i'll make it working well. Although i've separated as much as i could control wires and motor wires, i've separated motor controller and CNC controller, EMI is still a headache

[@nikodembartnik]

I heard a lot about that, I watched a lot of KZbin videos about that, but so far I think I don't have a problem with EMI (as someone pointed out, layer shifting may be caused by that)

[@yohabi]

@@nikodembartnik i've made a test of EMI detector - kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4fbXml4paefaJY So my spindle controller gives me EMI, and brushed DC motor doesn't

[@christophergrove4876]

I JUST NOW ordered an "authorized refurbished" Makita rt0701c compact router for my MPCNC build. I saw a side-by-side comparison in their forums. I'll let you know how good it is. I have one of the older Dremels with the less ergonomic designs and so I'm hoping to use that one in the Dremel CNC. Because of the straighter casing, it MAY be easier to mount.

[@mattivirta]

i has before makita router at spindle, worst option what i has test, after dremel, REAL spindle have lot better same cost but no noise and powerfull better,. i use 800W similar air cooler spindle what him uses video less than 150$ and lot better than makita has my cnc.

[@matth5770]

Looks identical to the spindle I bought, there is about a 4mm hole in the top under the black fan, that hole will allow dust particles in and will seize the lower bearing in a relativly short period of time.

[@foxlab7475]

Hey. and you are going to put limit switches on the CNC ?? it would be convenient to determine the home points

[@westey2611]

Just built this thanks for sharing.one thing is that you're machine seems to move alot quicker

[@iamthetinkerman]

Can I suggest using a motor heatsink, so you don't have to worry about melting the parts?

[@TanishqIsHere]

Please elaborate on the process you use to zero the z-axis at 6:13 in the next videos if possible. Wonderful video as always. Thank You!

[@xConundrumx]

He already did, notice the little Z-axis touchplate he made from a regular PCB. He has a video on that which should explain the process nicely and show you how you can make that handy and cheap touchplate yourself. In short you just use a few crocodile clamps, one on the workpiece (if it is electrically conductive you don't need a touchplate) and one on the tool. The tool is lowered slowly down and when it touches the workpiece (or touchplate) it closes the circuit which the CNC controller can detect (just like it would for a limit switch). If you used the touchplate then you know that the tool when it made contact was 1.x mm over the workpiece (however thick the touchplate is), if you did not use a touchplate then when the tool touched it was at 0 mm above the workpiece.

[@nikodembartnik]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/omrSZ42Ln8dmoZI

[@TanishqIsHere]

@@nikodembartnik Thank you so much!

[@comi496]

Bro you have talent and I really think that you love what are you doing, but KZbin algorithm is bad

[@dr.whitehat9734]

Congratulations, it's a very good project. I would have a question, how many minutes is the cutting time of the parts that cut? Could you give information?

[@michaelwade897]

When cutting MDF or laminate wood a up/down cut router bit will give you the best results and little to no burr.

[@morganlafaye1063]

I liked very detailed keep all future vids that way thanks

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Nice upgrade! To prevent losing steps you could try changing the microstepping settings.

[@nikodembartnik]

Thanks! Do you mean disabling it completely or just go half the max microstepping?

[@KaLiDEM]

@@nikodembartnik I'm using x4 microstepping with 24v power supply, and nema17 have now more torque and I can go faster in rapids.

[@arslanali5692]

Nice video. Are you controlling the spindle rpm via firmware or potentiometer?

[@alexanderpristinsky177]

I very impressed with this project. So did you address the resolution problem? Witch leadscrews did you put, with what pitch?

[@joeward6060]

Have you thought about making it multipurpose ? An adapter to swap out the Dremel/CNC spindel with laser would be a great feature so you could also laser etch with it.

[@erikm9768]

These are some great results!

[@nikodembartnik]

Thank you!

[@gabriele9153]

Hello! could you tell me how to connect the 500w kit to my cnc? i can't understand the wiring with the cnc

[@Rouverius]

Yes. Yes, that sounds like a new project :)

[@retrotellephone]

Great video. Ive been thinking of an interesting project where you build the CNC out of 3d printed parts and then use said CNC to mill the same parts out of aluminum essentially upgrading itself. Doesn't really solve your motor or unsupported rail issues but all the fixtures would be sturdier...

[@mattivirta]

need supported SBR rails cheap and better, my cnc have SBR20 rails whit ball screws set cost 350$ ebay. size 1500x1500x400mm

[@vizionthing]

Well now you can at least mill the parts for the new machine :)

[@timkors1346]

It would be cool if you could make a new aluminium cnc with this cnc! I don't think it would be very practical but it would be nice to see!

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

The new spindle will probably run cooler once its "broken-in"... You could make a heatsink to fit over it, covering at least part of the cylindrical body ...😎👍 Those dremels are definitely not ear-friendly, one wonders how they got type-approval for them ! 🙉

[@aswincvenu3958]

A word about cutting MDF. MDF contains farmaldehyde, a carcinogen.So it is wise not go inhale any fumes since you seem to work in a confined environment.

[@alfiolocatelli5093]

Hello! Your channel is interesting and I'm wondering if a new version of this printer will come out! Maybe with nema 23!

[@adriandumitrascu4292]

those are 8mm pinch lead screw ? if yes you can change them with 2 mm and wont skip steps :D

[@GNARGNARHEAD]

thanks that was really helpful, might just have saved me a lot of tinkering :D

[@pproietti67]

Great work ! I’ve made your dremel cnc machine and I’m very satisfied but if you will create something greater then ... I’m waiting for! Good luck

[@nikodembartnik]

Thanks!

[@michaelmayo3127]

Hi, I noticed that there's some gutting tool chatter on some of the surfaces that have been cut.Is this due to a too high feed rate of the stepper motor not being powerful enough? Or is there too much power for the hardware-constitution to handle? Great video!!

[@paulameloot9380]

I am using this spindle on an MP-CNC (quite a bit bigger than the Dremel CNC) and I can really use the full potential of this spindle, which is quite good for the price ! It had a big tendency to overheat though, so building a water cooling sleeve is definitly a game changing upgrade ! If anyone is interested in the STL files of that water cooler to 3d print (specific to this very model of spindle), let me know I'll be happy to share it with you ;)

[@MegaPaolo3000]

I would be interested in the STL files of the water cooler. May you share them? Thanks

[@paulameloot9380]

MegaPaolo3000 Sure ! I can send it to you by email. You need about 125g of PLA and two ø52mm o rings

[@johncraftenworth7847]

Wow, I not know that by purchase 3d plastic printer, now I can build cnc that can handle wood and metal and plastic! I will have more capability! Thanks so much I will build this machine of yours!!! I will use PET-G filament for more strength and temperature resistance!!!

[@ricardomourita1823]

I remember something regarding the thousands of steps..... Did you check you're microstepping settings on your controller? That might be the base of your problem. :)

[@РусланАльбри]

Hello from Russia! Thank you!

[@PvPbomber009]

Amazing project! Thinking of making one for myself, keep up the good work :)

[@nikodembartnik]

Thanks! Just do it :)

[@woodtv4481]

I made a DIY Wooden CNC but I haven't Cut anything yet for the past 3 years. hehe

[@beykana]

Hello, I also have such a motor (48V). It was working before, but yesterday, while scraping wood, the motor had a hard time and suddenly stopped. Now it doesn't work at all. I measured it with a multimeter. There is electricity (48V) at the output of the PWM driver and the positive and negative terminals of the motor are powered, but the motor does not move. What do you think might be causing the problem?

[@NoName-jh6yg]

Thanks, you helped me a lot

[@patricknitzsche5205]

Hi Nikodem, what is the max voltage coming from the power supply at full speed? I get more than 120V and the spindle gets freaking hot. I wonder if the power supply need to be adjusted to a limit of max 100V?

[@GrandeCalle]

If u go down with the voltage the amperse increase and so will your temperature. Normaly it should be better to drive with more Voltage and lower Amperes to get lower Temps, it depends also on the data of your used tools. So first you should educate yourself a bit about Electronics and reread the datasheets of your Tools.

[@TooManyHobbies786]

Great machine and great videos--thanks for that! I built one but used some of the other remixes on thingiverse (offset x-axis carriage to change the center of gravity). One thing i'm noticing though is there is quite a bit of play on the Y-axis bearings--is this just mine or did you notice it on yours as well? I find that as soon as the 500W spindle is loaded on, it pulls the carriage down and toward the front due to its weight.

[@italogarcia1597]

I think you can test to put epoxy resin into the printed parts ( in this case you have to use less infill ) what is the pitch in this acme screws?? Thanks

[@dieselphiend]

I've been wanting to experiment with 3d printed parts filled with epoxy granite. That would increase the amount of stiffness and vibration dampening exponentially. Perhaps even 3d printed parts simply wrapped in carbon tow on key areas, or perhaps even full layup.

[@petrokemikal]

Whats the point.. Just use aluminium or steel parts. !!

[@87osvald]

Great project! But it seems like you are using the wrong end mill. Or just a bad one. Shoud be possible to get a lot cleaner cut

[@SebastienChedalBornu]

Honestly I tried at first with my dremel on my ox CNC... And it was real crappy, even at feed rates of 75mm/sec on plywood the dremel stutter and made ugly noise, then I switch to a Mafell fme 800 and now I'm conservative at 600mm/min in plywood but it's perfect.

[@vitorhugoreis]

HI Nikodem Bartnik...I have de same Splinde...but, i have a (many) questions! Can you help me, please? What model of your stepper motor are you using? Would nema23? How many Kgf.cm?? Thank a lot for information and congratulations for your machines!

[@FixDaily]

What an awesome project

[@michaelmckenna9123]

Alright bro.. I'm about to embark on my own CNC build this Xmas while I have time off work but I'm not very electronics savvy so I was wondering if u could let me know what the best controller would be to get for my Nema 23 motors and TB6600 Drivers? I was told I could use an Arduino Uno R3 controller for this but I'm as dumb as a bag of hammers when it comes to this stuff. I've got my Aluminium 2020, 2060 & 2080 1000mm lengths ready along with other parts to build the frame. I got a Z Axis which is made from ABS? I believe and it is heavy as hell with a Nema 42 to control the movements.. I was thinking of changing it out for a Nema 17 but I'm not sure.. I'm using belts(2mm) and pulleys but I bought 4 Nema 23's with TB6600 drivers and I got a CNC Shield with it also with 4 Limits switches as well. It was a kit I got for under 100 Euros bro.. It was a decent deal I thought but I'm not sure tbh.. What is the best software to use with the Arduino if I choose to go that route?? Do u have any helpful hints and tips for me before I get to it? I would very much appreciate any advice u can give me bro.. Take it ewasy and keep up the great work. Oh Yeah I have 3 motors. I bought a Topshak 800W palm Router but it's very heavey and I don't want to unbalance the frame tbf so I went ahead and bought 2 other Spindle motors. One is a Genmitsu GS-775 but I cannot find the output in watts of this motor. Does anybody know that answer for me please. It's a 24V motor. I also got the same 500W spindle motor u have here too and it comes with the same 52mm Clamp/holder and I got the power supply with it as well. I also got a 600W and a 360W and a 120W power supply as well.. I have a tonne of gear to begin my build but I really am stuck as far as the electronics are concerned. Any help anybody in the comments could give me would be awesome guys so just in case u help me I wanna say thankyou in advance.. Much appreciated

[@ralger]

At the risk of repeating someone else in your comments section has ever you had any issues with bearing play on this spindle? I watched a video about a very knowledgeable gentleman disassemble that spindle only to discover a soft vinyl rubber collar around the end bearing to dampen noise but of course this eventually cause undesired side play or runout when operating the spindle in harder materials like aluminum.

[@ralger]

This is the video that shows excessive end play and complex repair kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4bZlGWbmpyNj5o

[@yohabi]

10:25 what is your Nema17 supply voltage? 24VDC, 12VDC or else? I still think the problem of missed steps caused by spindle EMI, not because of machine rigidy or Nema17 torque

[@xConundrumx]

A very good point, as I state above these spindles are brushed motors and cause a godawful lot of EM interference.

[@nikodembartnik]

I use 12V for the stepper motors. That may be the case but to measure that I would need an oscilloscope, I don't have one

[@mattivirta]

DONT use nema 17 not can use cnc need minimum nema 23 motors or nema 34.

[@DrZdravke]

Does it vibrate a lot? Mine is almost unusable... rotor not balanced at all, it will probably fall apart after a month of use.

[@masiosare_3d]

Great video! And great project! I just build the dremel cnc and I'm wondering, your machining settings. You shared the ones of the new splindle in aluminum. Can you share the setting for aluminum and wood for the dremel?

[@anupnishanrao7767]

I love your channel,you're coolest guy🤘🤘 peace ✌

[@errolfoster1101]

If you use straight flute tools it will reduce the fuzzies

[@Grzabekus]

Cześć, niestety to chińskie wrzeciono nie ma 500W ;( kolejny raz jest to ściema przyjaciół z chin. Wrzeciono ma kilka słabości i jeśli chcesz aby przetrwało więcej niż 50h roboczych polecam Ci zwrócić uwagę na kilka rzeczy. 1. Łożysko jest zamocowane tylko na gumowych podkładkach - przy obrotach rzędu 100 może bicie wrzeciona wynosi 0.01 ale powyżej 1k rpm wrzeciono lata we wszystkie strony.2. Samo łożysko to najtańsze na rynku bez izolacji - jeśli pracujesz w MDF zarżniesz je w moment. 3. Szczotki na komutatorze są zawsze źle dopasowane - przez to, że źle stykają do materiału przewodzącego przechodzi przez nie bardzo wysoki amper. Przypalą materiał przewodzący w moment i wrzeciono po prostu siądzie. 4. Olbrzymie drgania wywołuje wiatrak przez co jeszcze szybciej zarżnie gumy w łożysku. Polecam po przeciwnej stronie mocowania nawiercić otwory w wiatraku aby go wyważyć. Ponadto dobra robota, jestem pod wrażeniem. Pozdrawiam, Konstruktor maszyn i programista cnc

[@hankyknot]

Could you use this machine to CNC aluminum parts to make the bigger more powerful machine you mention towards the end?

[@ricardobfe]

Nikodem have you heard about hibrid step motor? They have a encoder.I think that you should consider it for future of this project.

[@gordonyoud5975]

Suggestion for heat removal, make some small fins to clamp to spindle motor body to shunt more heat away. :-))

[@marcocorrea8938]

Olá boy sou do Brasil...adorei seu vídeo... tenho uma router cnc com spindle de 500w...com motor de passo 15kg parece ser bom...oque você pode me aconselhar?

[@kokeskokeskokes]

The noise of 500W spindle definitely comes from its fan, not your frame, nor the motor itself. I would rip the ventilator off, or cut its blades shorter.

[@liquid-stoe]

you should build a MPCNC, i made on, it can run a lot faster and it's cheap precise and give you great build volume

[@flopesff]

Hello Nikodem Bartnik , I love this project and I´m doing mine with a 500w Spindle. I would like to know If you will create a vacuum support like the dremel have. Thanks.

[@AndersJackson]

This is not in the DIY Dremel CNC list, so I missed it at first. And if you have the CNC that can cut aluminium, you might replace some parts with aluminium that help make the machine more rigid. :-)

[@VuLamDang]

You now have CNC capability to mill Aluminium and wood, so a bigger CNC is in your reach now! (I know, since I have done it. 3D printer to smol CNC machine to big-ass Shapeoko inspired)

[@eduardoa.s.7132]

Hi Nikodem! Would it be possible to change the 3d parts for the nema 17 to be able to use nema 23? I really like this project and I would like to build it. Thank you very much! Best regards from Germany