Cnc 3018 Upgrade with a 500 W Spindle Motor

[@brucewilliams6292]

Nice upgrade. I always learn something. I hadn't thought about how to use the zero on the calipers to find the centers between shafts. Nice upgrade.

[@joetke]

Definitely the most effective and elegant upgrade of this stock CNC. Thank you for sharing your solution, Sir.

[@techydiy]

Thanks

[@NJP76]

Flipping over the "Z" axis was brilliant! I actually watched this video before ordering my 3018, so that was the first thing I did when assembling it. Ordered thrust bearings for all the stepper motors at the same time. This way I was able to do these upgrades as I assembled the unit. I also have a 24 volt 20,000 RPM spindle motor. Have not installed it yet, but that will be the next upgrade...once I sort out how to actually use the machine properly. Thanks for these very useful and helpful videos. Really helped me decide to finally get one of these.

[@bigcountryvet5984]

I just realized this all for a 3018 and I have a 3018 Pro. Everything looks different, sucks getting old and half blind. Thank you for the great work you do.

[@DIAC_Electronic]

Nice to see someone else prototyping with acrylic sheet - so much easier than steel / alu

[@999fugazi]

Great video. It must have taken twice as long to produce this upgrade whilst filming everything. It would be interesting to see the Z axis deflection on this machine and ways to improve it. Great work.

[@johnhill2594]

Well done, plan to do that this weekend. I changed the NEMA 17 on the Z axis to a dual shaft, and added a knob to the upper shaft to move the spindle up and down by hand. Makes setting the Z to zero easy.

[@techydiy]

Thanks. Good luck with your upgrades.

[@WiggyB]

Great video. I'm very tempted to build your Z-axis upgrade. I'd be wary of that PSU though. It doesn't come close to complying with EU safety regs and isn't CE marked. It really shouldn't be imported.

[@paulwills7902]

At last I took the plunge and your design printed perfectly there are a couple of things I need to work out though but am really happy with the result. I realised that I had not put the bit into the chuck far enough and I was getting quite a bit of resonance. Also when I took the first part off the machine I noticed the outer edge was not straight on the vertical edge. Un-known to me one of the bearings had slid out of the holder so I was getting a tiny amount of diagonal shift. It was so satisfying though seeing these pieces produced. Thanks for your help

[@SuperCozMick]

Thank you. Awesome video. I learned more in 25 minutes watching you than I have in days of googling.

[@hdl4259]

Nice video, the way how you assemble the Z axis, shown me, you know what you are doing, works for small quiet fingers. Good job.

[@dtroy15]

Very cool! Will this upgrade allow machining harder materials?

[@TomKappeln]

You're talking about Alamantium, right ?

[@mystictransience1959]

Wow, really cool! I was put off from buying the 3018 because of the weak motor but I can definitely see myself using one with this upgrade.

[@techydiy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6fEcqeep6-Eo5I

[@faniyat565]

Awesome upgrade from an expert. It's the best video I have ever watched. Unfortunately, I have tried upgrading my 3018 with the same 500w spindle and the Original 3018 CNC Router 3 Axis Control Board GRBL controller from Bangood. I followed same procedure you did. After 2 minutes the power supply was damaged. Actually, I don't know the reason. But their was a relay in controller board 12 v and the other 24v relay in between 2 controllers. I think I have to bring a new one. Thanks

[@techydiy]

Wiring and circuit diagram www.techydiy.org/cnc-3018-upgrade-with-a-machifit-500w-spindle-motor/

[@chrisryan3445]

Thanks for this. My 3018 board broke so changed to a GRBL/Arduino board and didn't realise it had no spindle output onboard. Was just looking at one of these spindles to replace it - but will need to 3D print the holder for it as obviously no CNC at the mo. Will give it a go from your plans.

[@tjones99]

Loved it. Just starting down the CNC rabbit hole and found your video very useful and well done. Love the way you show start to finish, software, hardware everything. Thx.

[@shaynekielmann-kn2tx]

just kinda curious , I am purchasing a 3018 w/ laser engraver also the router and bits turn it in to a small 3 axis inc router ... Way cool ! I am so excited for this it un real .

[@PortalFPV]

I'm looking to get myself a CNC router for cutting carbon fiber plates up to 5mm thick for custom drone frames. Would any 3018 model be ok and just do this spindle upgrade or should I be looking at something else? I've looked at many 3018's and haven't noticed much difference other than the price. Like the SainSmart is $350 but I've seen others as low as $150. Should I stay with a trusted brand or maybe something in the middle. I know I should probably avoid the cheapest option. Strictly hobbyist use. Thanx ^_^

[@Pnky-chan]

I have been searching for over a day trying to find out if I can upgrade the motor on these mini cnc machines.... Thank you soooo much my dude

[@UberAlphaSirus]

Your gonna need to earth the spindle and frame. That 100v looks to be mains referenced. It's DC too so if you grab something live, you won't be able to let go.

[@techydiy]

Yes you are correct, It is mains referenced and the spindle should be earthed. The mounting threads at the bottom of the spindle are quite an easy place to attach the earth..

[@wernerviehhauser94]

This is incorrect, the let-go-threshold of DC is much higher than AC (see this study www.wright.edu/~guy.vandegrift/wikifiles/Electric%20Shock%20Hazard%20Dalziel.pdf or consult the IEEE or wikipedia pages on electric shock). These myths date back to the Current War between Edison and Tesla. Nerves work with alternating voltages, so AC affects them more than DC does (short DC pulses in the ms range work like AC). But this does not make DC safer, it's only dangerous in different ways. Nonetheless, the spindle should be connected to PE or sufficiently insulated as 100V DC is anything but a safe voltage level. Edit: fixed html link

[@nixmamd]

Also, the output is nearly 300v with 30% max duty cycle pwm (230v version at least). The big capacitor also stays charged for a couple of days. And it is main referenced. I also use an optocoupled pwm for speed control. The inputs are a bit weird however, as the voltage difference between the outer two changes with spindle speed. I'm still searching for a decent power supply to replace this one.

[@Paul_VK3HN]

@@nixmamd Let me know if you find one. I am not wild about rectified mains, no isolation.

[@tjh44961]

Nice upgrade. I'd be interested to know if the additional weight of the bigger spindle motor and the additional cantilever distance away from the gantry causes unwanted deflection.

[@zrpickups5729]

It definitely does. Not much of an upgrade if you ask me, it actually takes away from the functionality of the machine. I'm wishing I hadn't dropped the money on mine

[@paulwills7902]

Brilliant I wish I understood half of what you do but I find it so interesting to watch this machine is currently on order so will definitely be referring to your posts. Thankyou

[@hubschenk1652]

Well done. 3 weeks ago I received my CNC3018 PLUS, which already has a 500W spindle as standard. And I also ordered the 40W laser at the same time. But for the other 3018PRO that only have a toy motor as an AS drive, this upgrade is a worthwhile investment, because for proper milling / engraving you need at least 300-500W.

[@frodobaggins169]

That's a great video, thanks. Your engineering is sound but the result is a greatly diminished Z axis travel. With the bolt on spindle you can't slide the motor up or down to compensate. I'm working on a 500w upgrade on my new SainSmart 3018 with the aluminum clamp on a 3D printed slide. I just have the broad Strokes worked out. Nothing finalized. Thanks again.

[@stephanepeters6097]

4:43 Nice trick to measure precisely the distance between axes, too easy!

[@brain3845]

Does the weight of the new upgrade effect the CNC in anyway? Not sure how much the motor weights but i was wondering the whole time if it put extra strain on the metal rods holding the spindle.

[@garrigarikov4541]

After changing the old spindle to a new 500 W, what parameters were set for the cutter: engine speed, depth, depth in one pass, feed speed for the cutter 3 mm ?

[@thilanfernando9589]

Nicely done spindle holder. Could you please tell me what size screws did you use for the square flanges. Thanks for sharing.

[@neco777777]

Great job! That spindle motor holder looks like a piece of art :) Thanks for sharing!

[@joelrob8606]

Merci pour cette vidéo. EXTREMEMENT UTILE. BRAVO.

[@perceptronimaging7558]

Thanks for the video but the z axis motor is only rated for .24 kg. lighteset 500w spindle I could find is over 1kg. Is the chatter bad or have you had to upgrade the z axis?

[@tomjoad6993]

What does this upgrade offer? Is it faster or something else? Is the speed at which you can CNC limited by the material you're cutting? Meaning, if you cut too fast the quality will drop. If that's true, have do you find the optimal size motor so that you can cut as fast as possible without going overboard?

[@RADCOMJ1]

You should change your name to McGuyver... Absolutely brilliant. Loving your videos.

[@Reman1975]

Like your work. I wasn't 100% onboard with your material choice for the new mount, But it looks robust enough and I didn't make out any chattering vibration while it was cutting the aluminium, So it's probably just an old mans "Metal is best" prejudice rearing it's head again. :) I keep thinking about getting one of these little CNC router/milling machines. Trouble is that I trained as an engineer on bleeding great aerospace milling machines that could rip 200 thou cut's off blocks of alloy at ridicules feed speeds while using 2" cutters. After that, even something like the ever popular Bridgeport series 1 felt like an under powered and slow toy. I think that using a desktop CNC machine would just frustrate the hell out of me, and make me wish I still had access to "Proper" sized vertical mills. :(

[@pj8979]

It is a great toy to start with.

[@phillipcoolman1193]

Thanks for an awesome build. Did you have any problems with the Z axis step distance when you completed the upgrade? I have just completed this exact upgrade but have found the z axis now moves approx 30mm for every 10mm command in easel. Did you come across this?

[@techydiy]

Configure the z axis steps per mm setting for the new lead screw. The following video explains it (different machine same process) kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2WwlJ2wbK6DZ5I

[@BritishBeachcomber]

Excellent, informative video. Unlike many KZbinrs, you really understand CNC. Just one question... Is it possible to control spindle speed using PWM from the microcontroller, instead of a potentiometer?

[@techydiy]

You can but it require a bit more electronics to implement full pwm or you can buy off the shelf pwm to analog 0-10 / 0-5V voltage adapters to allow connection to the power supply.

[@victorinoasis8401]

Great upgrade. I might needed to do this and you have presented very well.

[@mertcapkin7263]

With this setup is it only possible to turn the spindle on and off or is speed control with the software also possible?

[@leec2106]

I like it, would like to see the potentiometer replaced with a voltage divider circuit to allow the software to control the spindle motor speed.

[@beykana]

Hello, I also have such a motor (48V). It was working before, but yesterday, while scraping wood, the motor had a hard time and suddenly stopped. Now it doesn't work at all. I measured it with a multimeter. There is electricity (48V) at the output of the PWM driver and the positive and negative terminals of the motor are powered, but the motor does not move. What do you think might be causing the problem?

[@zukjeff]

good build , check the voltage of the speed pot pins with ref to earth.. just to make sure its safe.

[@davidfarmer]

Wow you probably fixed the crap z axis as well. Well done! I wonder if you could take two of these kits and make it double shear x and z axis.

[@bafa_tents_services]

Great thanks for sharing. For wood is it necessary to cool the bit? And at what air pressure?

[@greensheen8759]

No need, as long as your feed rate is high enough. Low feed rate is what causes wood to overheat and burn. A dust collector boot helps with the mess

[@tazanteflight8670]

Both ends rotate. Is that just for the fan, or is that a flywheel of some sort? Intentional mass to increase torque. ?

[@billfield8300]

Thanks for the great video. I will need to at least make a version your spindle holder to replace the original which is cracked in several places. I also used your assembly video as an instructional video to assemble mine... FYI.. that's how I found your channel. Your video is posted to the sellers web-site. Good work. Gave the sub.

[@itskevscott]

Great video, very useful! Just wondering how noisy is the 500W motor (compared with the stock one, for example)? Cheers!

[@techydiy]

A fair bit less noisy I would say

[@brucenorton3864]

Great video thank you. Will this motor work with the Cronos board that is supplied with the 3018 router? (Only the power supply needs to change?)

[@techydiy]

I believe that you can wire it in the same way as shown in the video

[@patheron7812]

Enjoyed your video, good project and good video production. Is it necessary to have so much stick-out on your endmill while cutting? Maybe the chatter can be reduced if you choke up on that tool?

[@pantv841]

Great video, what fuse rating did you use in the 3 core UK plug?

[@ablasttv]

Nice, might have to do this with mine, although at that point I might also go ahead and build a new frame too for a larger area and ditch the 3018 altogether lol

[@johngreci9140]

Love you video; high quality, along with the upgrade. Would an Optocoupler Isolation Board provide the same function as you 24v dc relay? And if so, could you point me to the correct board? Thanks.

[@BinoyJacob992009]

Is it work with Mach 3 controller.Are you using 18 gauge silicone red and white wire for connecting to control board

[@TheJohdu]

brilliantly condepted upgrade for the little 3018. Did this improve the operational noise of this little machine?

[@techydiy]

It is a bit quieter

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

Very impressive work, thank you and for the gcode for the support. Excellent Video and a much better solution that a lot of others I have seen.

[@jeremypringle5368]

Did you inform the original spindle that it was being used to create its replacement?

[@techydiy]

I offered it a new role in exchange.

[@anthonydrake7767]

Clean, well edited, quality video as usual! Question: why did you put in a longer lead screw? To leave some sticking out of the bottom so you can hand turn it if you want?

[@techydiy]

Plan A was to have a bearing in the bottom of the holder, it turned out not to be necessary.

[@arenspringvloed9020]

@@techydiy Thanks! I'd been wondering the same question. Tidy work, and great video, so thanks for sharing.

[@MP-mu1kw]

Excellent video! Thank you so much for sharing your creative re-design of the z-axis. Can you please provide a link to the where to order the 2 flute 3mm endmill from. I have been contemplating to get one of these 3018 sized low cost desktop CNC for learning. But I have resisted it because of the very small workarea of the Y-axis. I am looking to mill Acrylic/wood/thin aluminium very similar to what you showed in your video but I woud like to have a workarea of at least 300 x 300mm. This model only does 300 x 180mm. So I was thinking of say replacing the original side rails, thread screw & guide rods (Y-axis) with new ones measuring about 500mm. Your thoughts on this mod will be greatly appreciated!

[@techydiy]

The bit was in this set bit.ly/3gcrdKN You can expand the machine, but to make it stiff enough you will probably have to replace most of the rails. In the video after next (early september release) I am testing a cnc with a 300mm x 400mm work area.

[@MP-mu1kw]

@@techydiy Thanks for your reply and I will look forward to seeing your next video!

[@MrMartinoef]

Just getting sorted to do the upgrade now! I'm not electronics minded & notice there's a diode? on the circuit board. All I think I know is a diode lets electrons? travel in one direction through the circuit but, I don't see a reference in parts list - anyone know if there's only one type of diode or are they rated like different resistors etc. May be stupid question but there isn't a stupid question if you don't know! Thanks in advance.

[@techydiy]

It's an in4148

[@MrMartinoef]

@@techydiy Thanks for quick reply

[@briggsbughouses6291]

Hi, Nice video, the quality of the parts looks pretty good considering the cost of the machine. Have you tried any 3D milling with the 3018 machine? I use Mach 3 with a taig CNC and wondered if the Arduino and GRBL board were up to this?

[@alexecheverria]

Good idea! I just turn the spindle on by hand via a switch. This is more elegant.

[@othoapproto9603]

Hi, is there a term for building a machine that then you can use to make better parts to improve that original machine? Is there a developed system of strategically improving certain parts to improve the original machine's accuracy? If I 3d print parts to build a CNC router, I would want to use it to cut aluminum parts to replace the 3d printed plastic parts. I don't think machining the precision parts like gears, screws, sliding surfaces with the original machine would improve the machine.

[@warrenking1815]

Really nice video, great job. Why did you use acrlic? Would abs work better?

[@techydiy]

Optical clarity

[@forMakers]

It is very helpful in making a good video homemade cnc. Thank you

[@mrbiggs110]

Thanks for the video bro I wonder if a 3d printed part would be just as good for the motor upgrade?

[@techydiy]

Sure

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

Great video and cool upgrade. Could you use the PWM output to control the 10V input too ? Obviously you'd need a PWM to linear 10V conversion but that shouldn't be that difficult to do.

[@techydiy]

I would think so.

[@Etienne85]

hi! thanks for sharing your upgrade and nice job! I wondered if it was possible to cut thicker aluminium like 6mm or so using this kind of equipment...?

[@techydiy]

Yes you can

[@Dancopymus]

En ese caso, ¿es posible comprar el 3018 con el husillo de 500W (no con el original)? ¿Y todas las piezas vienen completas para ensamblar o se debe comprar algo por separado? Gracias

[@techydiy]

bit.ly/3cDtdM9

[@JamesThompson-xl4yu]

Why didn't you make a new spring for the horizontal bushing like you did for the vertical ? All in all do you recommend this cnc for a starter?

[@techydiy]

It is not as necessary

[@psacentralcoast6970]

Hey I have a question and it might seem obvious but how are you getting such good height on the Z you have the base plate then what looks like 15mm - 20 mm mdf then you cut what appears to be 20mm mdf into a ring. Are you pushing this to its height limit and does the 500w change the height? Thanks for your great videos dude they are epic.

[@gerrykavanagh]

So much great information & ideas in this video. Many thanks. One question... do you have a link to that surfacing bit? Is it 1/8" shank?

[@techydiy]

Its a 6mm shank, so you need a 6mm er11 collet. ER11 collet set www.banggood.com/custlink/vmvyYqna9C 22mm surfacing bit www.banggood.com/custlink/m3KYEqnoPj

[@69LINX]

Good morning, congratulations on the video. I have a question for you: is it possible to connect the wires directly from the spindle output of the cnc motherboard? Else, what is the value of the resistance on the pcb?

[@techydiy]

Can you drive the new spindle motor directly from the PCB ? No

[@chrispwilliams6297]

Thanks for this, which model 3018 do you recommend?

[@Glasairman]

Did you feel a need to upgrade from Nema 17 to 23 to accomodate the higher torque motor?

[@techydiy]

It worked but it really depends on your own setup

[@woodworking3815]

Are you aware that the spindle power supply output is not isolated from the mains voltage? I recommend adding a PE/Ground connection to the 3018CNC frame.

[@techydiy]

Yes, your right it's mains referenced. For anyone else reading I added an earth to the bottom of the spindle (m4 screw) and the power supply is now in an earthed case. Earthing the spindle created problems with the height probe, so I also added an opto isolator between the probe and the grbl control board. Battery power supply for the probe side. There is a bit of detail here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5-Te4eEn8-grcU

[@mitchmoe6224]

My numbers may be incorrect, but doesn't this modification cut your Z axis travel down by 18mm?

[@Сачёк]

Your work is super! If you secure the base, you can cut aluminum First I wrote and then in the video you did it)))

[@techydiy]

Thanks

[@markuskoarmani1364]

I put one on but it vibrates due to unbalanced air cooling. I suggest you remove it and 3d print one that is balanced and light. I used a 3" drone propeller and replaced it with stock as drone props are perfectly balanced. No more vibration.

[@randallkillpack249]

Great video. Could you please tell me what resistor you added to your relay circuit? Would love to keep the on/off function in the software.

[@techydiy]

The circuit diagram is on my website, link from video description.

[@Tshaker879]

Would this handle 5mm polycarbonate?

[@xaviermarduel1948]

Thank you very much for the video. I would like to make the same. I was wondering (after some research) if instead of the PCB with relay+diode, a Solid State Relay (no need for a PBC, no need for a diode?) would not simply be OK for the job: I was thinking of such one like SSR-10DA DC-AC Solid State Relais-Modul DC 3-32V zu 24-380V AC Spannungswandler ? Or is a SSR-25DA also OK or even better? There are some for few euros. Is it a valid option at all? Thank in advance.

[@techydiy]

Your only switching a low voltage so it depends on the spec of the SSR. You can of course use the SSR to switch the mains input. Another alternative is an opto coupled relay board, in this case you would switch the low level switched input.

[@AdaptivePhenix]

Great job...made for very enjoyable viewing. Bit touch and go when I saw the ridiculous hand condoms but you were soon rid of them :D

[@BinoyJacob992009]

Is it work with just spindle .without motor.

[@jonathanwright1507]

Have you got more information on the opto-isolation circuit or can you buy this as a ready made kit, as you assumed in the great video you made we all knew what it was, please? & is it powered by the spare 5vdc from the controller, also?

[@techydiy]

I can’t remember but opto coupler modules are available on Amazon / eBay etc.

[@jonathanwright1507]

@@techydiy - Thanks, I have seen them & was making sure they would be compatable & had trouble Z-Probing my circuit board ,so instead I did a bed leveling cut, which works perfect for making PCB's - which is what I wanted to do with it, after 30 years of chemical etching PCB's!

[@jonathanwright1507]

@@techydiy - I also have a really good mod for these CNC machines, which is to make some m3/m5/m6 studs, which are then thread locked into the aluminium all over the machine, then you can use a washer & double nut system to really tighten those frames up & never to come loose under vibration, I have just done it in my CNC enclosure the noise is now a constant instead of loud then low noises while milling. Unfortunatley I have stripped a thread on 1 of my stepper motors & this is what gave me the idea to turn them all into thread locked studs to avoid stripping the aluminium threads - just don't expect the stud to be removed from the aluminium ever again...Thanks.

[@jonathanwright1507]

@@techydiy I finally made my own DIY CNC, using an Adrino controller in stepper drivers, even the Z-Table is DIY. Just did a board leveling today going left to right & not 1 tram line anywere, perfect... kzbin.info/www/bejne/hV7ap4KZfJ56ldU

[@Glasairman]

Did you put a relay to allow the 24V power to the old 775 motor to switch the power on on the new power supply (my Machifit PS hat to instructions and NO label as in 1:07). Alternatively - what voltage does the ON/OFF input require, could I go there directly from the 24V line to the old 775?

[@techydiy]

Some power supplies have high voltages on the input / potentiometers so it is best to isolate or at least check voltages between ground and the terminals / between the terminals. I measured circa 150v across the potentiometer.

[@WoodomainJeremyBroun]

A beautifully clear video thanks.

[@techydiy]

Thanks

[@arturomartinezmartinez4416]

Is it posible to atach the same motor to a sainsmart 3018 prover? Sorry for the question but im new to all this stuff

[@techydiy]

I don't see why not

[@Tsumomo]

How well does this mill aluminum?

[@danielmcarthur9004]

How come you chose this motor? Why not a GS-775MR motor? Higher rpm and fits without modification. Just wondering.

[@techydiy]

It's another option, although I don't recall seeing them around at the time.

[@quietdropsedit]

I have another question, if I don't place the relay between the motor and the power supply, then I will only be able to start and control the motor speed through the power supply potentiometer, right? Does this relay serve to automatically start and stop the spindle motor using the software g-code? Sorry for the beginner questions but I am still learning.

[@techydiy]

It works fine without the relay but you just have to remember to turn it on and off

[@flyred77]

Can i still use the original laser add-on with the 500 Watt kit added on or is there something stronger faster better I should get?

[@techydiy]

The 500w mount would be too wide for the laser module, so you would have to mount it another way. Maybe 3d print an adapter

[@tiemanowo]

How is your acrylic holder doing after few months of use? Don't you have some cracks from vibrations?

[@techydiy]

It's fine after 7 months.

[@tiemanowo]

​@@techydiy And I also really like Your idea to instal thrust bearings between steppers and shaft couplers. I think I'll install them on my 3D printer Z axis.

[@TorteTS]

Your question is well asked. Search for acrylic "GS" this is casted quality. "XT" is extruded.

[@NoelBuezo]

110/5000 Just a question, what is the input voltage for the source? DC or AC (110 v/220v)?, or the 24v of the original spindle on DC?

[@techydiy]

The spindle motor power supply is 110/220v AC input and 0-100v DC output.

[@quietdropsedit]

Awesome upgrade! Can you tell me if I can install the same 500w spindle motor in the Sainsmart 3018 PROVer with the same instructions that you used in this video? Cheers

[@techydiy]

I don't know, the plates might need some modification, you would have to measure the parts and check.

[@khmerMosaic]

Will this machine able to etch glass bottle using a diamond Drag Bit?

[@techydiy]

Bottle implies the use of a rotary axis, which it doesn't have but there is nothing stopping you using a diamond drag bit.

[@niksechtniks]

Hello, just a quick question. how does the old model hold up to the newer "pro" model's ?are the new one's more stable ?

[@techydiy]

There is not really much of a practical difference.

[@paulwills7902]

At 1649 you drill a whole in the carriage am I missing something?? What is that for because it looks like nothing has really changed on the carriage ... am going to start this project at the weekend now I have all the bits. Thanks

[@techydiy]

I was going to install a bearing in the bottom but decided it wasn't necessary in the end.

[@tomgrant6563]

The collet chucks seem to be attached with a set-screw (and I assume a press fit onto motor shaft). How does this go?

[@techydiy]

You mean, do they loosen? Not in my experience.

[@azzorzer]

12:05 how did you line it up like that so it would start drilling on the board without missing it? sorry for my english, hope you understand my question.

[@techydiy]

I lined it up by eye

[@thebeststooge]

I'd buy some silicone heat pad for those fets as that plastic helps to block the heat transfer to aluminum chassis.

[@josvanhoof7616]

Thats a very nice upgrade. Where did you use the Thrust bearing F5-10M (5x10x4mm) for?

[@techydiy]

Thanks. On the stepper motor shaft,, it's early in the video.

[@josvanhoof7616]

Thanks.