BMW E46 Stripped Head Bolt Repair in Aluminum Block DIY

I began my rebuild when I did a compression test and noticed I had poor compression in cylinders 2-6 (about 142 psi, the bottom of the service limit). Cylinder 1 had 160 psi. A leakdown test showed leakage into each adjacent cylinder. Of course my engine also had the oil consumption problem (1 quart every 1000 miles) that every M54 engine has, which is caused by the oil rings which wear down prematurely (the M52TU used different oil rings which did not have this problem). There was also coolant loss, which I didn't measure precisely.
To see all the videos in the #m54rebuild series: • M54 Engine Rebuild Pro...
To see all the rebuild specs for the M54/M52 series engines: www.dropbox.com/sh/g6fqtycr1l...
In a previous video when I first removed my head bolts, I retorqued them to make sure none of the threads were tightened down, and all of them seemed ok when I did that, however when I got the block back from the machine shop, I noticed one of the threads was starting to pull up a little so I put the block back on and torqued them again and they pulled out. So it looks like I need to repair them by drilling out the holes and installing TimeSerts. I use a drill press to do this.
What you see in this video is not my original idea--there is another video on KZbin doing the exact same procedure, so I want to give all credit to that original video:
• How to install Time-se...
Hopefully I have just shown you one or two things to watch out for in performing the actual repair.
M10x1.5x24mm TimeSerts: amzn.to/2kLNMJH
Time-Sert Tap Guide: amzn.to/2lj5Z3p
LocTite 266: amzn.to/2kM1YSV
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.

[@justinspires9151]

Very thorough job. If you find yourself doing this on your m54, in order to avoid tilting the block for the rear headbolt locations, rotate your block such that the drill press base assumes the location of your transmission bell housing. This allows you to maintain both angle and depth consistency.

[@ducewill]

Awesome video , Block looks perfect all clean and shiny . I was holding my breath while your were drilling lol . Nice work Jason !!

[@sidsexist1003]

You're my go-to for anything E46. Hi from Gibraltar

[@themechanic6117]

I was yelling at the screen watching you make mistakes. glad you got it done at the end.

[@joelrugg]

I’m getting ready to do this! This was really helpful. I watched the video you referenced both extremely helpful.

[@ryansewell5878]

When ever hand tapping holes you should always refer to a Starrett chart and go with your 75% setting with aluminum because you'll always have variations while tapping by hand.

[@vviiper]

This is an awesome video along with the rest of your previous videos on this subject. I'm excited to see how it all comes together and if it runs good.

[@TheCowgirlNiamh]

I don't know why but I was really nervous watching that haha well done you!

[@mcterb7142]

I felt same :D This guy is so brave

[@brucevictor7624]

I know this is 2 years later writing this, but readers BEWARE! He describes 12mm x 1.25 time serts, THEY ARE THE WRONG SIZE! You will need to purchase 10mm x 1.50 time serts! (PART 10155) He uses the 12mm x 1.25 thread TAP to insert these 10 mm time serts, but he doesnt explain this. I had to freeze frame the monitor to look at the package of time serts at 3:02 on the screen. NOT easy to catch. Hope this helps, as there are still those who want to repair an old E46.

[@arnolduk123]

All the threads are 1.5mm pitch. The time-serts should be 10mm x 1.5mm and the Thread Tap should be M12 x 1.5mm. Yes, he made a mistake about the Tap size in the video and he should correct it in the video notes. If you are not sure about the correct sizes then the kits include all the correct tools but they come at a cost. IF you know what you are doing you can just buy all the standard tools for a fraction of the price. We don't all have the luxery of owning a drill press and a nice cosy garage,, doing this kind of job with engine in vehicle requires some engineering skill and good tools, you can't afford to make mistakes like he did in this video. This is not a cheap and quick DIY helicoil job, the tools, measurements and drilling need to be exact for the time-sert installation.

[@denniscampbell9376]

I just purchased those pieces that he mentioned in the video via the link that he gave and the timesert is the correct size. I agree should make the appropriate changes in the description so that there is no confusion believe it or not when you put a video like this out people are kind of leaning on the information given myself included this will be the first time I'm actually doing something like this so I'm already fearful

[@customcarinteriors4555]

Great videos you have been doing. Great content. Must admit tho using a drill press is no no man! Way to ridged and powerful. You actually can get cross cut with using a pillar drill making you actually cut a completely new hole. Anyone ever doing this should use a hand drill for a diy installation or by hand is better with a die and tap tool. Ultimately the timesert jig is the best way. Great channel...

[@tempest411]

At 19:10 or so...You are better off not tapping any deeper than you need to! You know the hole will accommodate the bolt, because it's not going any deeper. Tapping the full length of the hole won't do anything but potentially create stress risers and weaken the block there. I would also have lined up each hole with a stud into the existing threads and tightened it into the drill chuck, then clamped the block down so it couldn't move, then complete each stage of the thread repair to insure absolute straightness...You can even use a drill pres to tap a hole-just don't turn it on. The drill press will hold it perfectly perpendicular to the deck as you start it. They have tap guides for drill presses as well...It's a bit tedious, but in this application I wouldn't spare any amount of time to make sure the repair is as neat and clean as possible. One last note...cast aluminum blocks are as soft as cheese. Drill bits can wander off course VERY easily!

[@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7]

I'm 7 min in.. .... great great video !! I wasn't sure if a drill press would provide enough depth to accommodate the width of the block. Good to know. n

[@fieldsofomagh]

Yup have to agree, a old block to experiment with and then go for broke.Count yourself lucky it's not an expensive rough diamond that needs cutting 💎.

[@Smennyboy]

Thanks for sharing this!

[@robertlaugherty4914]

Awesome as usual but you had me scared a couple of times! That care is going to last you til 2030 and beyond after you're done!!

[@gehmirnichtaufdienuesse6820]

Shit's getting real...Cheers

[@arnolduk123]

At 6:40 you say the Time-Serts are M12mm x 1.5mm thread pitch but in your description and links they are M10 x 1.5mm ? Is it required to drill out the old threads or can you just re-thread the hole with the tap over the old threads seen as the threads are already weak anyway ? With it being aluminum block then the tap should be able to drill and tap at the same time and would also have more "bite" into to the soft alloy ? As you mentioned that the correct drill bit size for the hole is only a close aproximate. Correct me if I'm wrong as I'm no more wiser than youself to doing this type of work, but your video shows it is much less dificult job than I thought.

[@louisrosner6613]

You can also take your drill press to center your tap to the drilled hole, because the drill press usually stands in a perpendicular position. You simply put the tap into the drill chuck and turn it by hand for the first 2-3 thread pitches. After that you remove the drill chuck and use the handle bar to turn your tap and your thread is positioned perfectly ;-) Sorry for my odd English maybe, I'm German :D

[@50sKid]

Yes, that's a good tip, thanks!

[@charlesdefrancisco5056]

Hi fifties kid...I know this is old but I am now driving a 04 X 3 With M54 so you’re video was interesting....as a professional race engine machine shop owner and builder I think you did a good job...and I must acknowledge your machine shop on the surface finish of the block....one thing that I feel you did not stress enough....the perpendicularly and squareness is a lot more important than realized especially in the BMW alloy blocks I can only hope I never have to do this job...I would also think a complete repair would perhaps include a switch to studs knowing just how fragile the inserts are.....but most of the failures are due to misalignment because you exert forces on a bias....I only say this from experience obviously making mistakes....I enjoy your enthusiasm

[@bradleytrembath6982]

Jason - I have watched your channel for years, and your videos have been a wealth of knowledge. I am about to install timeserts in my block. How has your car held up? How many miles do you have on it post engine install. Thanks for all the great content. We miss your work.

[@camdenwilson9168]

How did it go? I'm about to do it as well

[@sakuraturbo3364]

I don’t understand why he have to drill so deep when I think should be ok just a little more just for the inserts to be. Flat or below the head block

[@010FSL101]

This block is ready for some boost now

[@Thedeaconoftrade]

I have a question for you, so people usually bore out the 4 smaller diameter head bolts at either end of the block when doing this? Originally the 4 bolts at either end are smaller than the m10 1.5 bolts

[@andreas4959]

But wait...When using these inserts, should you not let the threads UNDER the insert remain intact? Assuming you're using the same size bolts as original, the bolt would go through the insert, and then ALSO grip in to the old original threads in the block itself, giving the bolt way more material to grab on to? But when you drill all the way down like that, all those old threads are gone? Just a thought... :// Although that's what I've been told by people looking to turbo these engines, since they apparently tend to tear out the threads when you up the boost some what so they try and get the max amount of material holding the head down. So it might not matter at all in this N/A application. Anyway, great video series! Really grateful you make videos like these, very educational and detailed. I'm using ALOT of your content as reference right now, as I'm building a M54B30 as well. Although, mine WILL be boosted... ;)

[@raulcampos8865]

Hello 50sKid, great video like always, I was wondering if you know any good websites that sell a complete kit (with the head gasket included) to replace and install a new head gasket.

[@50sKid]

eBay has them

[@spanugio]

hello, I watched your video and gives me an idea how to do it on my own n55 engine. I have the same problem on 2 m11 / 125 holes. I no longer trust the rest of the holes and also want to tackle all holes. do you already have experience with this block? I still have the bottom block in the car. Do you have any tips for me? greetings from the Netherlands

[@sterlingwitherspoon5709]

If I am using helicoil and they are shorter than time serts, do I thread the helicoil all the way down to the bottom or just enough past the surface of the head?

[@bbogdanmircea]

drilling thw rhreads out ? you should have done it at the shop ... but you managed ok at the end ... probably hand held would be messy without some special jig to keep the drill perpendicular

[@bySumar]

I have the m62 ”540” and this happend to me when my friend... ”accidentley” revvstopped My car when cold. Mechanic says they wanna drill into every hole and it will cost 800$ is this a Good price? And will it even hold? Considering blocket might’ve warped?

[@mccrac5247]

Will HSS inswrts work okay in Al block? No worry of chemical corrosion?

[@michaelprice3785]

Used to build spacecraft. Any hole into aluminum got a timesert.

[@brucevictor5433]

50s Kid, what were the length of the time-serts you used?

[@Thedeaconoftrade]

Is it possible to retap the threads with the engine still in the car?

[@liontitties]

Do you know how I can tell if the block has already had the threads repaired? A head gasket job has definitely already been done on my car.I assume it is not possible to repair the threads twice? Again thanks for all your vids and help

[@50sKid]

Once you have the head off, you can see the timeserts inside the block. They're made out of steel and they are darker than the bright aluminum. You don't need to do them twice unless they have been damaged and pulled out again by another overheat incident, in which case you can install "big-serts" which are oversized ones.

[@liontitties]

oh ok awesome. Thanks for the help :)

[@calebhardison9280]

How big of a problem is this for the E46? I am in the market for one, and I have found a 2001 325i Manual with 162,000. Is there anything you can do to prevent this? As no one would, I would prefer to not have such a big job in the near future.

[@carlosguanipa1417]

What diameter do the bits have and hand the taps , excuse my English

[@Jimmynoglue]

Hello has this repair held up ok? Thanks.

[@vampire668]

Hi can you pls send the eBay’s link on how to order that time serts kit.. thankyou

[@andpla563]

do u know how to fix the cluster?

[@becomematrix]

Anxiety levels running high

[@danielroma2370]

I think some of my bolts are stripped at least three. can I get in contact with you? Do I need a new engine?

[@billmeissner1196]

did this repair last? I'm about to do the same thing. I'm also looking at big sert's as an alternative. Any advise?

[@50sKid]

You did it once already?

[@billmeissner1196]

Thanks for talking to me, this has been a bear. No this is the first attempt. I've just been reading a lot on different sites about time serts. Some say it's the best thing on earth, others curs them. But most agree that the big serts work all the time.

[@mcycleserv]

yes is another good engine repair video BUT I was always under the impression that inserts were to fit flush with the surface ..correct me if I am wrong ..also grease on the tap is a good idea but the flutes need to be cleaned out so swarf will not damage the new threads that were just cut ...that is a good way to repair sparkplug threads while head is still fitted to block

[@50sKid]

They need to be inset. You wouldn't get the alignment collars reinstalled, for instance, if the ones in the wider holes weren't inset.

[@mcycleserv]

alignment dowels yes ..the new thread inserts would have to be fitted where the alignment dowels rests in the block all others should be flush with the surface so when head gasket and head fitted will not allow thread to pull up ..so as it would be that the insert headgasket and head form one solid unit...Wurths have a kit with everything Drill Counterbore Tap Insert Driver and inserts and they say fit flush to surface

[@50sKid]

Yeah but you don't know how deep the head bolts actually go and you don't want them sticking down below the inserts part way. The threads were inset for a reason originally. I feel it's best not to move them up. The $450 kit has a dual size drill bit that counter bores the holes in the exact manner I did in this video.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I agree with this. The length of bolt from the treads to the head of the bolt is the area where the tension that holds everything tight occurs so change this dimension is asking for trouble. I actually think this timesert idea is going to be better than the original because the load form the bolt is evenly distributed along the bolt. Without a timesert the load ends up on the top of the threads because the bolt stretches. I think this is why helicoils do not work even though they are said to be very strong.

[@vitalybrateev5548]

@@andrewthompsonuk1 i did it with helicoil and it work ok

[@TheRennasossancman]

Does the block warp on the m54 if they over heat or just the Head???!!??!!?!!??!!?!

[@stevenrodriguez3982]

Bioel Pimentel typically the head but the block is aluminum and can warp. You can check the flatness by cleaning the block and using an engineers straight edge.

[@lizlugo668]

im installing a new head gasket but one of the threads broke the one with the alignment dowels do i do the same as in your vid with it? Or do i remove the dowels or what? Need help thanks

[@50sKid]

Remove the dowel using a plier and repair the threads as I do in this video, using a timesert. You'll probably need to replace the dowel because you'll damage it. I just got lucky.

[@lizlugo668]

So right now I'm having trouble with the flywheel locking pen do I have to push it in real hard or what because it looks and feels like the Penn doesn't want to go in the 12mm that's its supposed to

[@010FSL101]

hole probably not lined up?

[@antonitorres5934]

The repair is a helicoil. Dame BMW made to just good enough to work.

[@nosceteipsum2922]

Can work an helicoil for this?

[@evaristocastillo1906]

Hello, i have the same problem but, i live in Veracruz, Mexico, its diffucult for me to find the same time serts bcause of the shipment goes to expensive, but i found the same size but instead of 1 inch long= 24.5mm y found 1 that is onli 20mm, do you think that could work?

[@50sKid]

Yeah I think it should

[@evaristocastillo1906]

@@50sKid it worked :D thanks

[@tonycopelyn8730]

what spec is your drill press? Thanks

[@50sKid]

i honestly don't remember -- it's just a super basic skilsaw brand one, probably made in china

[@1rewd133]

I would have taped over the water pump recess as well.

[@patrikskype]

So your block was only cleaned not machined, right ?

[@50sKid]

It was machined for oversize pistons.

[@patrikskype]

50sKid How much do you increase your bore? And what about inside surface of cylinder? In these M54 engines there were sleeves or nikasil like in previous M52 version?

[@50sKid]

0.020" (0.5mm) oversize. The liners are cast iron on the M52TU and M54. The M52 only had aluminum blocks with nikasil liners in the europe version--the US it was a cast iron block. You can't machine the nikasil lined bores oversize (you'd need to recoat the bore), however they shouldn't wear down as often as cast iron.

[@noeltomas]

They are called helicoils in my world

[@stevenrodriguez3982]

Noel Tomas helicoils and timeserts are different. Timeserts are one contiguous insert while helicoils are coils. Timeserts are stronger and preferred for head work.

[@ronhipwell5543]

We had this issue on my son's 2006 Scion Tc. Timesert makes the kit with the tap, alignment jig, inserts, locker, etc. This guy is in Orange County, not far from us and they wanted $350 to do it w/the block in the car, a few bucks cheaper to do it on the bench. The depth stops and stepped bit to allow for the shoulder of the insert seem key to a successful, consistent install. You're a baller man! Keep up the good work! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYmogHStaNajbK8

[@jesusborrero3382]

Some time this no work

[@alycestapleton]

there are people that kust specialized in tread repair and they charge a arm and a leg what are you on about big money in that trade

[@antonitorres5934]

"Timecert" what kind of dumb name is it for thead repair insert.

[@maaaplesyrup4976]

'Time-Saving Insert'

[@thegreatpatsy]

Soooo much damn Time to insert it! LOL

[@antonitorres5934]

Dame engine $100 here $100 there. $5000 engine total same junk.

[@jaguar7051]

Very bad job - when you pushing to get a drill at the same time you change the angle of the hole - no longer become vertical So many mistakes you doing every time begin some other projects Slow down Chehoslowac brain, become more precise and think much more.

[@carlosguanipa1417]

What diameter do the bits have and hand the taps , excuse my English