560SL - Adjusting Valve Clearance / Compensating Elements / Go-No-Go Gauge

This #R107, #560SL Video: Adjusting Valve Clearance / Compensating Elements / Go-No-Go Gauge
In this short video, I demonstrate how I used the Go-No-Go gauge to accurately measure the Compensating Elements for proper valve clearance. This video is relevant to all #M116, #M117 Mercedes-Benz 8 cylinder gas, 3.8L, 4.2L, 5.0L, 5.6L engines.
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Links to the manual and links to all tools used in this video are below.
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My videos are not sponsored by anyone. The products and tools I use are products and tools I have purchased with my own money. I include links below to any special tools or products used in this video.
I used Driven Engine Assembly Grease to lubricate all rocker arms prior to installation:
amzn.to/3Lnj9dH
I bought the valve spring compression tools many years ago. Where I bought mine is no longer in business. That said, I did find this site that claims they have it available.
shop.ktcautoto...
You can purchase the Mercedes-Benz Go-No-Go gauge from eBay and other vendors. That said, at the time of this video I found this tool on Pelicanparts.com here:
www.pelicanpar...
That's all the special tools and products I used in this video.
Here is a link to the on-line manual that I am somewhat following:
www.startekinf...
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[@shabazghazunfer9586]

Hi how are you brother It's a minor differences between the yellow line so if you don't adjust it properly does it damages the piston or damages any other parts or ot adjust by it self Please let me know I liked your clips No other person can make clips like you I also love 560 They are the best cars in the world Take care brother

[@TonyLiveTV]

Thanks Shabaz. The purpose of using a go-no-go gauge for testing valve compensators in the Mercedes M117 (560SL) engine is to ensure that the compensators are within the specified tolerance range for proper valve clearance adjustment. If the gauge shows the line above or below the measure point, it indicates that the compensators are either too tight or too loose, which can lead to issues such as poor engine performance, excessive wear on valves, and potentially even engine damage if not corrected. If you are close with the go-no-go gauge it will likely be just fine. There seems to be plenty of clearance between the valves and pistons. I would say engine timing is more important in this respect. If your valves open at the wrong time it can cause damage to valves and pistons.

[@shabazghazunfer9586]

Thanks brother for your reply I live in Bahrain If you come to Bahrain Let me know I want to open a car garage but knowledge is very important That garage will work for only 560 classic models

[@shabazghazunfer9586]

If possible can I have your what's up no. Thanks

[@treozen4653]

There's something I don't understand - In the video, it looks like you have the go-no-go tool sitting over the spring and thrust washer for the measurement test, meanwhile in the manual image you show earlier (starting at 1:38 and an alternate view starting 2:33) its clear that the go-no-go tool is positioned over the compensating element - I'm confused on why, and where you are supposed to take the measurement - tool over the spring, or tool over the compensating element? OR - is it both, and they measure different things?

[@TonyLiveTV]

Tool is over the compensating element. Not on the spring side. My close up video was too close. I should have shown the entire tool and how I measured. I’m sorry about that.

[@TonyLiveTV]

I just had a listen and I see what you mean. Does it sound the same warm or cold? The compensating elements are tricky. Just having them hard doesn’t mean they function properly. Since you have the go-no-go tool on the way, pull your compensating elements and bleed them down (see my video on bleeding). After bleeding they will become spongy and can be pushed together with your fingers, but spring back. The tension after bleeding should be similar between them. Once you have confirmed this you can move on to measuring.

[@treozen4653]

@@TonyLiveTV Thanks. I measured using the tool today (before I saw your note) and I have three valves that, according to the tool, may need thicker thrust washers. Each thrust washer read the same - 5.10, but the bottom of the measuring gauge indent sat flush with the tool - so according to the manual, those three need thicker thrust washers - I'm just not sure such a small difference would really make all that noise. I am considering just replacing all the rockers, possibly the compensators too.

[@treozen4653]

Oh, and it starts quiet, but after about a minute or so, the clicking starts. Its also intermittent - it'll stop periodically, say for a second or two.

[@TonyLiveTV]

@@treozen4653 if those compensating elements are not working correctly that will cause noise. They are hydraulic. In the manual they show using a hammer to depress each element and comparing them as a simple test. If you can’t depress then it’s bad. And if it is too soft it is bad.