6.0 Powerstroke p2614 p2617 lose of sync, cam sensor pigtail, cam sensor, crank sensor

[@pakkelly]

You guys take 6.0 trouble shooting and repair to a whole new level. Thank you. As if egr coolers, o-rings in standpipes/dummy plugs/injectors/nipples, and oil coolers weren't enough achilles heels in these engines, now worn wiring harnesses are the new gremlin!😩

[@AutomedicGarage]

Thanks bud and thanks for watching

[@RuralTowner]

For 6 months I've been trying to get the early 6.0 (late 03) in my F250 to start after replacing the HPOP. Chasing one "indicator" after another systematically...although now I suspect it was something simple (if my truck was 1 month later in manufacture the ICP location change might have been the root issue) that really went & pulling things apart (looking at you harness) just made things worse or show up that were near-failure.. Only got it to run ONCE after lots of cranking & even then on only 4 cylinders. When it did it seemed to indicate a bad connection. Sorted that (or thought I did) but haven't so much as peeped since. About to throw on a salvage FICM injector harness that actually still fits snug whereas mine just fall out unless sandwiched. ALMOST MAYBE HOPEFULLY FINALLY BETTER BE narrowed down to bad middle connector but also with my Sync becoming hit & miss since I'm starting to suspect the cam lead too now since I never fully removed the harness when wrestling with the intake 5 or 6 times & ended up putting tension more than once on the cam line. I can hear the evil snickers from the army of white-mohawk sporting Gremlins as troubles get chased. If this truck wasn't the "when it's working it's the better truck" 4WD that also does other work as needed...I'd find it another home & happily go on with the simpler 2WD 91 IDI 7.3 I still have with it's only-1-important-wire-in-the-whole-ignition-system. That thing's about to get it's tanks fixed (only issue it has) so can start using it again. Only so much a little early 80s VW 1.6 TD conversion can do...

[@kevindodd9409]

Having the exact symptoms, I've been through everything else, glad to find this video, thank you!

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@kevindodd9409 sure thing bud

[@elseriollo]

Thanks to your video saved me a big headache! My truck had the same problem same broken cable in the same spot Thanks again 🙏🙏

[@AutomedicGarage]

Good deal. Glad it helped.

[@GrimRZR]

Im thinking mine is doing the exact same thing. Wish I could just bring it to you to fix. Guess im going to give it a try

[@dpdiver1]

Thanks for the video I have an e350 6.0 And recently had a long crank start and then crank no start. Previous to that happening, I have been getting the same thing.Were it almost sounds like it has a rev limiter and loses power.Can't get out of its own way. The crank no start ended up being the ficm main power was below 48 volts. Fixed it and was still having the same problems as your video and still had a couple crank No starts here and there, so I've been scratching my head.Thinking the ficm is still bad but now I know where to look. Thank you, I thought it was crazy that I had two Different problems that cause the same Symptoms.

[@johntownley83]

Man, I wish you was close to Southeast Ohio. I bought a 03 6.0 this thing's been nothing but problems since I got it. I've taken to a local mechanic here. It's pretty much the only diesel mechanic around in my area and I have paid him over $10,000 for work on this truck and it keeps still having problems. It's pretty much been rebuilt from new heads bullet proofed injectors, high pressure oil pumps, oil coolers standpipes you name it. It's been fixed sensors and it still keeps f****** up and I have to keep taking it back.. I wish you was by Ohio. Good job like the vid

[@AutomedicGarage]

Thanks, I’ve got folks sending me trucks from all over. I’m here it you ever wanna send it down.

[@ericjernagin7902]

Thank you it is the same problem I’m having with my e350 I appreciate it

[@jimmyFX]

Kinda been working on a few 6.0 not by choice lol. But my 6.0 has same intermittent issues. Mine has same bends. But apparently by international fault codes Electrical noise can be an issue. Dtc143 Hence the reason for the foil and ground wire Great vid. I think I’m going to make up a new twisted wire.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Sounds good. Thanks for watching

[@redskinsfan3197]

💯 thanks.. I've been fighting same problem after I replaced hop on a 2006.. Dude u rock!!!

[@demetreiusmayes5403]

What problems were you having?

[@ricardoramirez4784]

Thanks for showing your videos i'm going too change Crank sensor i have too change so thanks You i learn bye whatching your video thank You much God bless you

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@ricardoramirez4784 thanks bud. May God bless you also

[@gabeklein2527]

Great video when I needed it. Like the previous two comments. I also have my truck cutting out at 2000 RPMs. Shop couldn’t pull anything up on the scanner until last week when it’s throwing a cam position sensor code. And saying that it also will need new injector O-rings. I don’t know how that goes together. Checked map sensor boost, VGT and nothing. So hopefully it’s crank or Cam.

[@gabeklein2527]

Should set up a inbox. You know your stuff!!

[@noelvillafane7747]

bro humble guy great result

[@julianm2214]

Good video! Wondering if you can help me out. Bought a 04 f250 6.0 replaced batteries, starter, ipr, hpop and tube, Icp and ficm module. All in that order was able to get the truck to start but within seconds it dies.

[@moytech5960]

Great video guys, I have a 2003 f350 but this one is not starting and I have A E software also and have no sync, how would you rule out that that pigtail is the problem with a voltmeter, continuity or how please help and reply with some light with this problem ,how would I evern test the connector on this pigtail to see if this is my problem, thanks in advance

[@toomanytoys]

I just used this video to show someone in a forum where the problem may be since a dealership has replaced the cam sensor three times under the part warranty. Diagnostics at dealerships have fallen; technicians now instead of mechanics.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Awesome, thanks for sharing it

[@НикМарк-д1д]

Have you ever had a problem when pushing brake pedal or tuch steering wheel engine stall?? My Fordf250 6.0diesel 2005 does this! My sync good all time..

[@AutomedicGarage]

Check your powersteering pump. You could have a pump trying to lock up. The powersteering pump runs your hydro boost and your steering.

[@НикМарк-д1д]

@@AutomedicGarage You are Amazing! I took off the belt from a Steering pump. And start the engine I start push my brake pedal the problem Is gone. I gonna replace Steering pump. Thank you so much for your help!

[@cgaasdfasdfasdf]

Thank you! Have you ever experience a no sync ficm condition but without the codes ? I’m getting egr and Ipr codes but nothing with the cam or crank . I just replaced the entire wiring harness. Thanks again.

[@AutomedicGarage]

No I’ve always had a cam or crank code when there’s a sync issue

[@nuffsaid6807]

You are the flippin man...I swear if it wasn't for you I'd be stuck like Chuck. Dang it ...thank you

[@AutomedicGarage]

Thanks bud

[@jaredyandell1220]

My 2006 6.0 is doing the same thing it cuts out when gas it like it has a rev limiter on it at 2000 rpm’s. Replaced cam sensor doing crank sensor next but great video showing it could just be the wiring.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Poke around and move your wiring harness. Should be able to make it repeat. Are you losing sync? Have you checked fuel pressure and ipr% also

[@abemackay2683]

​@@AutomedicGarageI'm having the same issue as poster above. At 2000 rpm it cuts in and out but if I'm real easy on her and stay below 2000 rpm it's ok.. After 15-20 minutes of driving it goes away completely and all is fine until next time I drive.. Any suggestions?

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@abemackay2683 see if your losing FICM or CAM/CK sync

[@abemackay2683]

@@AutomedicGarage I only have an Autel scanner and it doesn't show 0 or 1 but it says yes

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@abemackay2683 your gonna have to pull up the live data and look at the sync and reproduce the problem and see if it’s losing sync

[@reeaub]

I'm confused when I hear bullet proof or billet proofed. Is this referring to a bunch of specific manufacturers parts or certain replaced parts known to fail on the 6.0? Is this repair something that will happen or a maybe will happen. My truck was dealer proofed at PSS in Buford GA. ARP studs after head gasket blown, Motorcraft water pump, motor craft injectors, MC oil cooler, EGR bypass, MC coolant, MC belt, maybe MC ICP and ipr😢. The hpop was done afterwards at a different time of failure.

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@reeaub it’s “bullet proof”. Term used very loosely to describe upgrades and fixes to the 6.0 to fix known problems and less likely to reoccur. I don’t use ford heads, they are prone to crack and I don’t use the term bullet proof.

[@gagehoffman7296]

How important is the ground wire that just wraps around the other wires? I don’t understand the point of it because it doesn’t seem like it goes anywhere. My truck won’t even start because of the same code and I replaced pigtail but I didn’t replace the ground portion of and it was cut

[@AutomedicGarage]

The bare ground wire is for the shielding wrap that goes around the wire. It prevents any electrical interference. It’s there for a reason.

[@joshuacarlton1386]

I recently changed the foot pedal sensor on my F250. My uncles tattle tail was showin misfire in #4 & #7. After changing foot pedal sensor, codes were cleared. #7 continues showing a misfire & a new code pops up for crank sensor. I'm gonna get crank sensor changed out. If the wires are fubar goin to crank sensor, out of curiosity what is that set of wires gonna run me cost wise

[@AutomedicGarage]

Around $100 for crank sensor and $100 for cam sensor

[@nickngaopraseut6717]

Thank you for the insight. My truck has been sitting over a year and now am dumping money into it. Going to install the new crank and cam position sensor and hope its not a pigtail break, which I'm afraid it probably is.

[@AutomedicGarage]

There’s 2 ways to approach if it’s the wiring. Replace the pigtail(s) or buy a $750 complete harness from ford or find a harness in good usable shape off another truck.

[@BryanL5913]

I put a new harness and new cam and crank sensor and still have sync loss on throttle. If I light foot it it stays sync . Before it had no sync and even ran rough at idle after I replaced crank and cam sensor it runs great on idle but rough on throttle and loses sync ..... The only thing I can think of is maybe after market sensors are not right . What do you think 🤔 Thanks

[@AutomedicGarage]

Is the harness aftermarket to?

[@BryanL5913]

@AutomedicGarage no ford engine harness

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@BryanL5913 ditch the cheap sensors

[@BryanL5913]

@AutomedicGarage it's weird it runs way better and syncs at idle only after I replaced with after market sensors which is why maybe I think Motorcraft sensors may do the trick.....

[@mrwhitworth8713]

So it seems my 6.0 lost sync with the speedometer. I have replaced the sensor in the rear end and it does nothing and it was just working 2 days ago. Also my abs light came on as well and it haddent been on either just out of the blue ?

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@mrwhitworth8713 sounds like your gauge cluster is going out

[@noelvillafane7747]

just fall in love with 6.0

[@havoc7043]

Awesome video, I swapped my crank and camshaft sensors and now my truck won’t start, batteries are good, I grounded the bolt the same way it was when I took it off, should I test the pigtails with a multimeter before messing with the harness?

[@AutomedicGarage]

What was it doing before you swapped them?

[@havoc7043]

@@AutomedicGarage it was sputtering/ surging I took it for a diagnostic and was quoted for 1100 just for the cam sensor so I did it myself it was turning on and staying on with no problem before. I did struggle with the crank sensor so maybe I pulled it?

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@havoc7043 do you have a scan tool? If so are you showing FICM sync when cranking? If not, and you used quality ford sensors I would say you have a harness issue or pigtail issue. You can check the pig tail for continuity. Prosource diesel has both pigtails which come with at least 36” worth or lead on them which usually gets you past the issue point in the harness.

[@havoc7043]

@@AutomedicGarage sorry to reach out but yes FICM is saying yes when I crack and turn on for a instant and shuts back off, would that definitely be the crankshaft sensor?

[@havoc7043]

Pigtail* Because it says that I do have sync when I crank it

[@matthickmott6143]

Awesome video, thank you! The foil disintegrated as I pulled the tape off. Can you point me to a link where I can buy replacement foil? Parts stores only have heat shielding.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Not sure where you would buy that factory style foil wrap. I have resealed some with aluminum foil then wrapped over with tesa tape.

[@mikefixel3238]

Auto Enginuity shows a ficm sync and a cmp/ckp sync. The cmp/ckp sync flashes 0/1 constantly. Is ficm sync all i need to be looking at?

[@AutomedicGarage]

If you lose sync you losing communication due to either a sensor, wiring harness issue or a internal FICM issue. The sensors are essentially a magnet that reads a signal as the cam/crank spin letting the FICM know where they are at in reference to the rotation of the motor.

[@wazzup2987]

So I have the code as mentioned in the video: P2614. However, I replaced my cam sensor not too long ago. My HPOP as well as low pressure oil pump are both new from when I had my motor replaced 3 years ago. Could it be that the cam sensor failed prematurely and or as well, the crank sensor? I also have code P2290 regarding the ICP. Thanks!

[@AutomedicGarage]

Need to check your harness if they were quality motorcraft sensors.

[@wazzup2987]

@@AutomedicGarage I see, thank you very much for the insight/help! Should I also check the icp sensor/ipr sensor and or valve? I know P2290 regards the ICP sensor but I saw somewhere about checking the ipr sensor and or valve? Thanks!

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@wazzup2987 what is the icp and ipr showing on a scan tool?

[@wazzup2987]

@@AutomedicGarage Unfortunately I can’t see those values. I just used a standard Advanced Auto scan tool to see what I had for codes and the only code that showed regarding the ICP was that P2290 “Injector Control Pressure Too Low”. I didn’t see a code regarding the IPR but I don’t if Advanced Auto scanner would pick that up. Do you know if I could check those values on their scanner? Do I have to get a certain scanner? I don’t have one at the moment unfortunately.

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@wazzup2987 those cheapo scanners are worthless for doing any real diagnostics. Gotta have something you can pull up all the PIDS on and look at live data. Autoenginuity, Marco, snap on, autel all make good stuff but if you wanna work on these and diagnose them and not guess by throwing parts at them you gotta be able to look at everything.

[@jcobra09]

Good shit man. Great content as usual

[@AutomedicGarage]

Thanks bud

[@diyman3865]

if the aluminum tape is not good , can i use aluminum tape , i tink i got the same problem.

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@diyman3865 I suppose, would be a pain for future repairs

[@gilbertootero6736]

I'm confused, what is the function of the ground wire? At the end of the camshaft connector it is not connected to anything.

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@gilbertootero6736 it prevents electronic interference “noise” from interfering with the signal.

[@HP4JDM]

Hello, great Video, i have a 2005 f250 that will crank and no start with no sync. i put in a new ipr, new ficm, new cmp, new icp, new battery. the truck will run for a few days and then will not get any sync. i wiggled the harness and disconnected the camshaft position sensor and no start. retried it in the morning and it started right up. can you help me?

[@AutomedicGarage]

Sounds like you have a wire gremlin, when it won’t start have some one try to crank it and go to poking and wiggling wires. That’s usually how I trace one down.

[@HP4JDM]

@@AutomedicGarage Great thanks i will and ill give you and update. Thanks so much!!!!

[@HP4JDM]

I found a split right at the connector, I will replace the loom and give you an update

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@HP4JDM good deal. Let us know.

[@mountainviewfarm8304]

What is part number for pigtail and where can i get one thanks for posting video on this issue

[@AutomedicGarage]

Prosource diesel part#33691

[@rickyfontain20]

Same issue and it’s driving me crazy! What’s the name of this wiring harness

[@AutomedicGarage]

Cam/crank sensor pigtail. Prosource and accurate diesel both have them.

[@cerwin21]

Note: dont use magnetic tools to place the bolt into the sensors.

[@AutomedicGarage]

I didn’t use any magnets or magnetic tools nor mentioned the need to use any because there is no need to, so where did you think I did?

[@cerwin21]

@@AutomedicGarage I am aware. Just a general statement for people trying to put in bolts in tight spaces that fasten down sensors. Had to replace a couple sensors that were new, buddy put the bolt in with a magnet and the other used the magnet finger. Ruined cam sensors. Problem was still there.

[@LunaDaSavage]

Bro woke up and chose violence 😂

[@swashington942]

@@LunaDaSavage What?

[@PLRomeBoatCaryoutude]

What scan tool are you using?

[@AutomedicGarage]

Autoenginuity

[@kevinmcintosh3922]

Did the wires to the cmp ohm test ok?

[@AutomedicGarage]

I didn’t even attempt ohming since I swapped a known good cmp in and the wiring harness showed the short when moving it. Also the loss of sync indicated I was loosing signal.

[@wnybass5716]

Hello hoping for some help. I drove home like normal. Went to start in the morning and crank no start with p2164 no sync/open circuit so I went ahead and replaced the cam sensor with motorcraft. Still crank no start. Stil p2164. Where should I go next.

[@wnybass5716]

I should add I have strong oil pressure. 48 volts ficm. 175rpm when cranking. Everything else seems to be fine.

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@wnybass5716 if you want to start easy throw a crank sensor in since you’ve done the cam already. Next would be to start looking at your harness.

[@wnybass5716]

@@AutomedicGarage yeah I looked over the harness I could replace cam sensor but I have no codes now. Just not getting ficm sync. Pulled the ficm checked connectors and harnesses. Engine is getting 200+rpm’s cranking so sensors should be good. Maybe bad ficm but I have the 58v sinister.

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@wnybass5716 swap a known working FICM in and see what she does

[@chrismcelroy7915]

Im confused about how you terminated the ground wire. It doesn't look like its actually connected to anything. How does that work?

[@AutomedicGarage]

@ 18:49 you can see where I soldered the ground back together. I did not termite it, it has to have the ground to prevent interference.

[@chrismcelroy7915]

​@@AutomedicGarageso it's a magnetic field kinda situation going on in there?

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@chrismcelroy7915 there’s a lot of electronics going on under the hood. The cam/crank sensor is vital for injection timing and such.

[@chrismcelroy7915]

​@@AutomedicGarageok thanks, that was something I'd never seen before. I'm doing the ICP sensor and pigtail now and thinking about looking into the cam sensor next. Mine starts good and usually runs good but sometimes revs up to about 2000rpm and doesn't want to go any higher.

[@10lasap]

Truck started and ran fine for a few minutes after doing heads. then I noticed there was no oil pressure on the needle and low oil pressure light on the dash. I revved it up some it missed a time or 2 then died. and I have a camshaft position signal output circuit/open. Any ideas? Truck ran fine before heads

[@DiscountMattressBrownsville]

was the break in the wire visible?

[@AutomedicGarage]

No, only thing visible was the crimp in the wire where it was totally bent over itself.

[@Andrew-ju4be]

I'm having the same problem with mine right now. I'm wondering have you guys ever done a ICP relocation kit before. Wondering if they're worth doing it. I got an early 03 and I'm wondering worth putting it in or not but I can't find anything on reviews about it or videos.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Never done one. It’s not to bad replacing it after you remove the air intake and FICM.

[@randy306963]

Hi it's me randy I have 03 Ford excursion and it will start please can you please help me I'm in Liberia Africa please

[@AutomedicGarage]

I’m gonna go on and assume you mean WONT start. My email and contact info is on our website

[@danielzacariascesarafonso3805]

My 2007 Ford F 350 6.0 L engine truck starts and works for 25 to 30 minutes then turns off. it starts again and then turns off in 2 or 3 minutes

[@AutomedicGarage]

What’s your icp, ipr, FICM main, FICM sync and fuel pressure show when your having the symptoms?