6 Creality Ender 3 V2 Upgrades You Should Still Do

[@jonathan2790]

The best upgrade without a doubt is switching from "Marlin" to "Klipper"....biggest and best upgrade I've ever made.

[@Dirt33breaks]

Agreed, I think i might even stay clear of a bambu lab printer because of how much i love klipper.

[@thebuildbay]

Yup, still on my to do list 🤘

[@Smokinjoewhite]

@@Dirt33breaks Klipper is awesome, but the bambu lab printers run like a dream and are a great value, especially the P1S. Cannot recommend it enough. I just don't use my printers remotely or on "the cloud", I don't trust ANY software or even "secure" networks enough with potential fire hazards for that.

[@yobtnirp3D]

I would but idk how

[@AutoRevLife]

Why is klipper better than marlin? I've just started researching both

[@MrUniq]

Linear rails and Ferrules.....maybe Klipper + accelerometer

[@eddy-readysteady-go9001]

It would be nice if you explained the upgrades🙄

[@dangerous8333]

Only thing I've done to my E3V2 is microswiss hotend, all metal extruder, silicone bed spacers and jyers firmware. Runs flawlessly.

[@Farmlover453]

Clicked for the upgrades, stayed for the ASMR

[@freedom_aint_free]

How does all those upgrades compares in terms of costs vs benefits against a 3D printer of the same price of this printer plus upgrades ?

[@itsmesd]

Majority are not worth it. By the time you've invested the money and effort you might as well just move to a higher end printer.

[@hamradiohack]

Unfortunately if you bought all this and a ender 3v2 or neo or even ender 3 pro on amzon you would well exceed the cost of a amazing printer like elegoo neptune 4 pro or ender 3v3 se or ke. And it will never print as nice as those printers. On the plus side these printers have more parts available than you can shake a stick at. And they are likely to be fixable for many years to come. I have a 3 pro, a 3v2 , 3v2 neo and sonic pad and all that. I mod them for fun but they are for tinkering. I think every one should own or start out on a ender 3 so they can fully understand how printers work. Then they will trully understand and appreciate a great printer. I own alot of printers but my go to is the elegoo neptune 4 pro. I dont try to print at 500mm/s either. I also print inside a enclosure. Thats probably the best upgrade. You can get a enclosure for $40 on amazon.

[@Not-Einstein-61]

@@hamradiohack Hi, just as you said, I bought my kid an Ender 3 V2 Neo over a V3 SE, so he could fully understand how printers work. The V3 SE is great, but just too automatic, nothing like first learning how to shift gears and use a clutch pedal, than jumping right on an automatic car. What has been your experience with the V2 Neo, as we are just geting on the 3D printing lane ?

[@marsgizmo]

excellent video and pretty cool hotend design! 👏😎

[@thebuildbay]

Thank you! I am pretty happy with the design...already working on a version for the E3D Revo CR hotend 😎

[@marsgizmo]

@@thebuildbay hehe, can't wait to see the one with the REVO CR 💪

[@everettebinger5956]

That wiring job.... ouch...

[@stanleyhoptroff]

@@everettebinger5956 ik it was making me cringe

[@Colonel__Mustard]

@@everettebinger5956 Hijacking a comment just to push someone down, your parents must of loved you so much... If you're so bright and knowledgeable commit and tell us all how it could be better.

[@NoMoreBsPlease]

Having tried nearly EVERY DD extruder available for the Ender 3, I highly recommend the MicroSwiss style over ones that use short Bowden tubes.

[@thebuildbay]

Great recommendation 👍🏻

[@MrTree421]

I would recommend something along the lines of H2V2S Revo or Revo Roto.

[@Altirix_]

1:20 i would rather recommend rigid mounting the bed screw it down and check how flat it is then adjust with washers till its good enough for mesh to take it the rest of the way. youll be able to hit much higher acceleration. i also dont see the point of the metal bed leveling adjusters, stock ones will do just fine and these wont solve the issue of them slowly coming loose over time you also should not be using 12v fans when the printer is 24v Sunon, Delta and many other make good 24v fans, which means you dont need to use a dc converter to make a 12v supply. one less faliure point especially for the hotend fan is something to consider, even better is a fan with a tach output and if it reports 0rpm you can fail safe and prevent heating 7:55 ok you own a soldering iron, yet you just twist the fan wires together and heatshrink? worth noting anything on the hotend should be at least ABS or ASA. PLA & PETG should be avoided, due to their low glass transition temps, both may hold up for a while but will sag eventually especially if enclosed.

[@Smokinjoewhite]

I agree, but to be fair I used PETG and PLA+ (sunlu, maybe their PLA+ is slightly more resistant to heat?) on two of my ender 3's cooling setups for over a year of pretty much 24/7 printing with no deformation whatsoever. I only changed when I enclosed all my printers to print ABS and nylon. The heatsink doesn't get hot at all (if it does you have other issues) and the ducts should typically be far enough away from the heater block to not hit above about 50c, just hold your finger about 8mm from the heater block at 220c and you won't need to pull it away, that's an indication it's less than 60c at that distance.

[@lindeleasley]

I went a slightly different route with my V1. I installed a Sprite Pro with dual 5015 fans, silicone bed mounts, dual z drive like yours, a 4.2.7 main board, a CR-Touch and the Mriscoc Professional firmware and the V2 display. Mostly the same path, but with a couple of minor differences.

[@thebuildbay]

Nice!

[@somatt]

I love my bushings, big upgrade from the springs.

[@daliasprints9798]

For hotend, I'd go with a $7 Triangle Labs/POLIS3D thin-throat titanium heatbreak rather than replacing the whole thing. Easier job and better quality result. The other essential upgrade you missed is controller board (skr e3 mini with uart mode tmc2209s) and a sbc (eg rpi) for Klipper. This will make a far bigger performance difference than anything else you can do.

[@thebuildbay]

I went for the low hanging fruits first 😎 but Klipper is definitely on my list of furture upgrades. Thanks for the tips!

[@logan2815]

What sort of permormance will you see? I;m looking to make some furhter upgrades to my ender 3 pro. thx

[@Mr.McWatson]

What is an sbc? I swapped fans and nozzles and skr is next on my list.

[@daliasprints9798]

@@Mr.McWatson Single board computer, typically a raspberry pi.

[@Mr.McWatson]

@@daliasprints9798 Ohh, the v2 can run those as well can't they?

[@charleswheatcroft]

This is the sort of project that I start and regret like building a new PC. Worthwhile in the end but the effort involved doesn't pay off quite as much as I had hoped. Thanks for showing the effort involved as I will embark upon such things with my eyes fully open!

[@ktestable]

agreed, simply the CR Touch, strong springs and enclusure was able to make all of my prints nearly flawless. everything else was just "nice to have"

[@shatterpointgames]

Building a PC is nothing compared to this. You can assemble a new PC in 15-20 minutes.

[@Viceroy11011]

@@shatterpointgames 🤣

[@flamixin]

The dual z, new hot end and direct drive are almost do nothing. Even the metal wheel and spring are not a must..

[@andrzejt.1971]

instead of springs, you could put silicone spacers (mounts), they are much better and more temperature stable

[@cranexdragon1046]

I did that. They seem okay, but i do grow concern due to their nature of material that they may need replacing sooner than the springs. Not sure though only had mine for a few months so we will see

[@CommanDOH-JKU]

Should have gone with the solid Silicon "Spring" upgrade.

[@WillThat]

If you run klipper, you could get a BTT 42 tool head board and free up one of the main board stepper drivers for dual z auto gantry leveling.

[@satou022]

Haven't thought about that and will do it to my printer Thank you

[@etatsopa]

Okay so we’re not going to solder or even crimp the wire splices. Sounds great.

[@DONphantasmo]

Hey. Remember when you had to dump 100$ into your 100$ printer to make it work right? I do...

[@we-are-electric1445]

One or two of the links don't work but the video also doesn't explain the need for each modification i.e. what is the real benefit of fitting the parts is and whether upgrading to a later model may be a better alternative.

[@vesperti]

What firmware are you running to get that much control and more accurate bed leveling mesh? Also is synchronizing dual z's hard?

[@Le_Sixx]

Bed insulation is good if you don't have an enclosure, replace the spring not with stronger springs but with silicone spacers, for dual axis you should add flexible couplers (because of z hop which is bad with ender motors), this version of creality spider is not the best for the price, get the newest one (e3d copy kinda). For real outside of that, using a blower fan will give you better results too...since cooling is with a lot of fluid (air in this case). They are all good upgrades tho ! Changing the extruder to a gear extruder will also change your quality of life for printing at average speed ! (no skipping)

[@Ryan2dabs]

It’s a dual gear extruder I have the same one your right about the no skipping

[@AlphazuluH2K]

Ain’t no way!!! I’ll just buy a higher tier printer. I guarantee my printer won’t even power on after all that 😂😂😂

[@Printed_Visionz3D]

might want to remove that noctua fan, poor cooling

[@esiaim1]

Good morning, at what voltage value do you leave the z axis when installing the double motor? Thank you.

[@coreybeaty8528]

I dont know If i would put aluminum bed leveling wheels they are quite a bit heavier then the stock plastic ones and there for increasing the beds inertial mass and slowing the speed you can produce accurate prints. It would bet better to apply a simple nut and 3d printed wheels and reduce weight. Just food for thought.

[@thebuildbay]

Good thinking! I will give it a try and see what the actual weight difference is 😎

[@NicoFallara]

How do u get a second part cooling fan?!? I have my van for the red part but I want both part cooling ones?!?

[@TheDJGerd]

WTF good upgrade i have just a ender v2 but i'm thinking about

[@snydergc]

I'm trying to figure out what value is gained by each upgrade?

[@arturwielgosz6706]

I just don't get it - why you had to adjust the voltage for stepper motors?

[@thebuildbay]

For the extruder stepper, to get the most power out of the motor without it overheating. For the dual Z stepper, to reduce some electrical motor humming, which apparently was induced by the two steppers running on one stepper driver with the stock voltage

[@arturwielgosz6706]

@@thebuildbay thanks for the answer! 😄

[@T3KFTW]

I've done all the mods here before watching. all great mods 100% the direct drive plate you used is a perfect option because it leaves so much room for extruder upgrades. Now my complaints with these mods: - ideally don't twist and tape wires - Dual Z shouldn't be dual motor without a belt at the least. a belt kit alone is fine. - The aluminum bed adjustment wheels are cool but heavier than the stock ones and the bed carriage is already very heavy - for the bed foam you don't have to trim quite that much but not a complaint I've since done 2 more severe mods to my ender 3 V2 - Hard mount the bed on a linear rail - "true" dual z with 5th stepper driver mod the lighter bed makes a big difference to go faster. "true" dual z is pointless just get a belted kit like the Ender 3 V3 SE/KE comes from the factory edit: another thing I thought about you should do the mainboard fan mod stock it only comes on when the cooling fan is on (also frees up an extra fan header for the hotend)

[@jezarmstrong7891]

Why go direct drive and then use a massive bowden tube in the top?

[@thebuildbay]

The white bowden tube at the top is part of my filament drybox 😎

[@onewa712]

Why do you change the E motor, but not the extruder gears? Little motors have very little torque, so maybe they work fine in certain conditions, but most to ensure they always push the filament in a consistent manner, they'd need a set of gears to up that torque 🥴🥴🥴

[@thebuildbay]

That was my thinking aswell, but the significantly higher flow of the Spider Hotend seems to compensate for the lack of torque quite well. Also setting the best possible vRef without the E-Stepper overheating did it's part. Test printing at 100+ mm/s worked without skipping 😎

[@dumieleo3288]

Hie new to printing here but how much would these parts cost

[@exploringgames948]

oddly enough, i just bought a spider before seeing this video, printed the custom head you have and it doesnt fit, the nozzle itself sits too high into the head... i've printed 5 different "spider" heads and every single one is the same, the nozzle sits to high and the fan exhaust touches the bed instead...

[@thebuildbay]

Hmm, that's weird! Did you buy the same version of the spider hotend, as there are at least 3 iterations? The fan shroud is designed for the first version

[@scaramonga]

Just a pity that noctua fan is going to cause major heat creep, as the airflow of the 40x10 is very low. I know, been there done it .

[@85jvia]

Omfg.. talk in the video. 100% talking is what needs to happen in videos, especially "tutorials". The annoying sounds coming off everything you touch is so bad. Just talk. Explain what you're doing and why. It doesn't matter how you sound. No youtube channel gets big without talking.

[@NicoFallara]

How do u get a second part cooling fan?!? I have my van for the red part but I want both part cooling ones?!?

[@thebuildbay]

I soldered two Radial fans to the original fan cable and protected the soldering section with shrinking tubes. Works great!

[@milkman3723]

Yeah to anyone watching... DO NOT turn your current up to 1.5. The crappy creality 42-34s are rated for only 1amp.

[@georgedixon545]

was expecting the printer to be fast after all of that ?

[@shabo857]

Wouldn’t it just be cheaper to buy a better printer?

[@ViperFPV]

Silent mod I did is so much quieter

[@factzewdie1575]

I have already purchased "Creality Official Extruder Upgrade Kit with Direct Drive for Ender-3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2 3D Printer" and "Ender 3 Heating Bed, 24 V, 220 W, Aluminum, 235 x 235 x 3 mm, with Cable for Ender-3/Ender 3X/Ender 3Pro 3D Printer, DIY Kit". My question would be if I can go "3D printer controller RAMPS 1.4 controller + Mega R3 board " for my HOME MADE 3D printer together. Thank you, Kind regards

[@manuelpatino9812]

do not do it ! ender 3s fail. Failed so upgraded to 2V with CR touch. 3 prints later, No media error! just recieced a new hot end also. I see why ender 3 are now be given away...

[@bassboostprotogen236]

im getting a item from amazon to upgate my ender 3v2 .....my fans i found out noctua makes 24v 40x40x 10mm fans for 3d printers and i hav not seen those 24v ons on the internet

[@Smokinjoewhite]

I don't see the point of the heavier levelling knobs. Just excess weight on the already heavy Y axis.

[@carlosrosario9237]

Easy on the motion system while the machine is off!You are going to fry something.

[@thebuildbay]

Living on the edge 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻...

[@hcy93]

I have a question when i was trying to change my hotend and blower fan, if i didint solder to new fan i can measure 24v on hotend fan and 2v blower fan. When i was solder new fans voltage droping and my fans arent turn can you help me

[@danielvaldivia2103]

Hi, loved your video. I am very curious to know what firmware you are using as I noticed it's different from the stock firmware.

[@thebuildbay]

Thank you! I am using the latest version of Jyers Firmware in this config: E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.2-v2.0.1. You can find it here: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases

[@officialteamroc]

i did this upgrade as well but i like the sprite extruder better for a upgrade.. i got better prints myself :) killer video tho!

[@thebuildbay]

Thank you! Yes, the sprite extruder is definitely a great alternative!

[@cranexdragon1046]

Okay so i was debating this myself. Can the sprite extruder also have more cooling as well? Like is this an already designed option or would this be something id have to design myself? I like both options but i think my printers are requiring a bit more cooling in my environment so that is a big deal with this upgrade

[@charlesrestivo870]

Nice video waste of time and effort .Have 2v2 changed nothing Just spend time setting up .

[@spacemandwz5396]

so my ender 3 max neo will turn itself off and on again mid print during a 30+ hour print. how to stop this from happening??

[@ravkhangurra7522]

Can you please advise if the heatsinks are necessary on the motors? Also if the hot end fan can accomodate a 4020 fan. I have read amny forums and the concensus seeme to be the Noctua fans are not able to provide enough airflowto the hot end and therefore results in heat creep on the hot end?

[@leecohen1546]

Great video. I have a question. I have the ender 3v2neo. What do i need yo print carbon or nylon filament. Thank you

[@sanderhoving841]

So you did al these upgrading to stil print at the stock speed i have a stock ender 3 v2 an i do 65 mms prining speed

[@anotherdave5107]

Is there a dual Z axis upgrade for the Ender 3 V2 NEO? The arrowhead shaped lead screw brace in the standard kit is the wrong shape for the Ender 3 V2 NEO.

[@Kuya_D_Z3]

Out of all of this the springs were the best upgrade. The rest blah. Maybe just do a sprite pro

[@smokong]

What is ur motherboard version

[@erictiscoff4296]

Can I change the standard 0.4mm nozzle to 0.2 on my Ender 3 pro and are there any changes to cura I have to make, thanks

[@OniPrints]

My spider v1 build is a fail. I gotta create a fan shroud for the e3 neo

[@low_skill8618]

Should also install the Professional firmware.

[@lindeleasley]

It's a night and day difference over the Creality firmware. A lot more functionality, and far easier to use.

[@robertomontano5700]

Do those heatsinks reduce a lot of heat? They look cool at the least! Also with just the heat shrink holding there wires together have you run into any issues? Love the video!

[@thebuildbay]

Thank you! To be honest, I haven't tried it without the heatsinks. Not sure how much they help reducing the heat. I agree they look cool though 😎

[@cranexdragon1046]

@@thebuildbaydoes it help make them any less quieter? Lol😂

[@Smokinjoewhite]

It may slightly help with heat, but stepper motors can run perfectly safely at 100c, just don't touch them. If your stepper motors are running hot enough to require heatsinks then your voltage/amperage is too high.

[@smitthe4408]

Would it be better to get the sprite extruded instead of all of the individual hotend/extruded upgrades

[@tezla5562]

5:48 what tool are you using in this clip?

[@thebuildbay]

It is a regular soldering iron. The easiest way to insert threaded inserts into your 3D prints.

[@cubingwithari1586]

Question: Since the Ender 3 V3 SE has been released, is it worth it to upgrade the Ender 3 v2, or would it be almost the same price to just get the V3 SE? I'm deciding what to do.

[@aidenkahn4338]

I would suggest doing the 2 v2 and upgrading since it'll be light and better js make sure you get bl or cr touch

[@diypro3d]

T achete une ender s1 c est plus rapide ou alors le top rapport aux prix fonction elegoo neptune 3 plus

[@home_Grown_studio]

Why can you not speak??

[@PapersPlanet]

For the noctua fan what color cables go together when you convert into two?

[@Colonel__Mustard]

Did you had any problem with bed temperature not beign the same? I would assume the cutoff part from the insulation is probably always cooler than the rest.

[@thebuildbay]

Nope, not that I noticed

[@dingdongdaddy589]

Good one. Thanks.

[@8bitwidgets]

what is the insulation for? just to help keep the bed from losing heat underneith? energy efficiency?

[@thebuildbay]

Exactly, it helps to keep the bed temperature more stable

[@ravkhangurra7522]

When you are changing the voltages on the mainboard I noticed the sleeping you used tidy the cables at the cutout of the frame. Can you please advise what tape you used. Thanks

[@thebuildbay]

Puh, sorry I can't remember the exact brand. It's a textile based isolation tape I bought of Amazon. I'm sure you will find a good one easily

[@folgee7368]

Nice, I bought a couple upgrades, just waiting for them to arrive, I wouild also like to know what type of screw driver you are using?

[@thebuildbay]

Nice! Upgrading is always fun! The screw driver is a super cheap one. I think I bought it at Aldi's 😂 but it gets the job done and you can easily change the bits

[@nor_cal_trailrides9990]

what is the firmware you are running that shows the mesh grapic on the machine UI? A lot of the early firmware for the e3v2 was very buggy with the BLtouch

[@thebuildbay]

I'm using Jyers Firmware. You can find the link in the description 😎

[@dragonld123]

I have an Ender 3 V2 and I am planning to buy CR-Touch and Dual Z Axis. Searching videos about dual Z Axis I saw many people complaining that the 2 axis loose synchronization but they are 2-3 years old videos. Is there any new firmware for V2 that supports dual Z axis sync or G34?

[@thebuildbay]

You are right, synchronization can be an issue. So far it seems to be working fine for me, but I will need to have an eye on it. For automated Z-leveling with G34 you will need to change the motherboard of your printer as you need two separated Z-Stepper drivers to compensate for misalignment. The easier way is to install a a timing belt between the two Z-Axis rods to force sychronization. I might do that as well....

[@dragonld123]

@@thebuildbay ΤΗ3D has this pulley/belt tension kit but I cant find it anymore. If you use it you run the dual Z axis with 1 motor . it dont sync the second motor, just moves the 2nd screw but works fine. Most people prefer this instead of dual motor.

[@pengo98]

Are the hot end shroud files available somewhere as actual CAD files instead of mesh files? I'd love to use it but I have a base Ender 3, not a V2 so I need to modify mounting holes and possibly merge the ducts into a single part so they're stable. That would be a lot easier to do with a proper CAD format instead of a mesh file. I thought about modifying the original to be compatible but then I'd be redoing all the same mods so thought I'd ask first.

[@pengo98]

Fixed my issue, just loaded it into blender and did some modifications to the mesh itself

[@SimonKirkman-f8h]

I know I am late to the party.. But it would have been good to see it print before the upgrade and the same item after the mods.... Great video and appreciated....

[@thebuildbay]

True, but the quality didn't really change much, it's more the max print speed that received a major upgrade 🚀

[@ABentPaperclip]

i'll never understand why people spend $700 upgrading a $300 printer

[@TimDrogin]

I heard an opinion, that this direct extruded setup is not really a serious thing, because it still has 4cm of a tube. What is your opinion on this and how it worked for you? Thank you.

[@thebuildbay]

So far I am quite happy with the setup. Stringing and oozing is not an issue anymore. I haven't tested TPU yet, but I am sure it will print way better than with a regualr bowden setup. Maybe there still is slight advantage with a "true" direct drive but I am sure this setup is close second.

[@_vi0_]

Will the fan shroud work with any hotend compatible with the ender 3 like say a dawnblade since it uses the original mounting holes?

[@thebuildbay]

I can't promise that, as I designed the length of the shrouds specifically for the Spider Hotend. Any hotend that is longer or shorter might not fit...

[@littlefrank90]

What is bed insulation supposed to do? Asking out of ignorance.

[@thebuildbay]

It helps with keeping the bed temp stable and maybe even save a couple of watts. It was a cheap tweak, so I gave it a shot 😉

[@GeGesValo]

very good but unnecessary

[@thebuildbay]

😎

[@Dr.Ratio69]

Why do you cut off the PTFE tube? You could just remove the pin and pull it out😢

[@andrewdreasler428]

Just a guess, but I'd say he cut the tube to use the short piece as the connector for the direct drive mod.

[@MuizzAsif]

If I replaced the hotend with creality latest spider hotend which can max upto 500 degree Celsius, will I be able to push the printer to 300+ degree Celsius printing. I mean is the ender printer capable of printing at temperatures higher than 300c if I use a 500c capable hotend on it? Please guide. I am want to use peek or PEI filament in it and the temperature they want is almost 360 to 400c .

[@thebuildbay]

I think you should consider getting a stronger heating cartridge. The standard is 40w. But I am pretty sure you will need one that goes 50+ watts

[@FerdFerdFerdFerd]

@@thebuildbay The firmware being used is going to make a difference, as well - "off the shelf" Marlin won't let you request (never mind actually get to) temps higher than 235C, if I'm not mis-remembering. You can change the configs and recompile/flash to the printer to get around that limitation, but if you're going to Klipper or Jyers or Mriscocs, I believe those come with "higher temp capability" already baked in. Having a higher wattage heater won't do a bit of good if the firmware won't allow temps above "X" degrees. If the firmware allows, though, a higher wattage heater will definitely speed up reaching that higher temp, and help stabilize it once it gets there (needs "smaller nudges" from the PID loop, which translates to less oscillation around the set-point)

[@Orangeking05]

Just doming ticking get an Ender 3 v2

[@Remedy1215]

I enjoyed this video a lot

[@truderides2243]

My ender 3 pro is still stock apart from a z axis shim and fan cooling shroud I never have to adjust the bed or mess about with anything else and it just keeps working however its not very quick when you look at some of the newer stuff

[@thebuildbay]

Yes, the newer printers, like the Bambulabs are simply beasts compared to the Ender pinters...

[@chidswick]

I am interested in trying this shroud upgrade - To confirm, what voltages are you setting on the multi-meter for the E stepper / Z stepper and why ?

[@thebuildbay]

I am not sure about the exact numbers (you should see it in the video), but in general I am setting the voltage for the pancake E-stepper to get the best balance between pushing force and heat development. Reason being that a pancake stepper is less powerful than the stock E-stepper. For the Z-Axis I did it, to get rid of some humming noises.

[@thebuildbay]

I am not sure about the exact numbers (you should see it in the video), but in general I am setting the voltage for the pancake E-stepper to get the best balance between pushing force and heat development. Reason being that a pancake stepper is less powerful than the stock E-stepper. For the Z-Axis I did it, to get rid of some humming noises.

[@valentinMüller-i4s]

Why would yourahter buy a new one !!!

[@CShand]

Would love to know how far you can push this printer now it's upgraded

[@thebuildbay]

Hey! I can comfortably print at 100m/s without the extruder skipping or having any other troubles. I haven't pushed it further, but I think there is more potential, e.g. by increasing print temp

[@frankhovis]

Is it not cheaper and easier to buy a better printer to start with?

[@aidenkahn4338]

This printer is already very expensive and I've bought all the upgrade sna dits only 160 so nah

[@frankhovis]

@@aidenkahn4338 I'm surprised, because you've basically spent all that and still haven't got to the Ender 3 V3 SE spec.

[@aidenkahn4338]

@@frankhovis well the v2 was a gift from my grandma before she passed so I have some bias on keeping it ♥️♥️

[@Mr_Pewpy_But-Whole]

do not follow this video. waste of money

[@iocyber]

bruh i wish i could set my printer up like this

[@thebuildbay]

Just give it a try and learn along the way 💪

[@xblinkusedfinchx]

Good mods. Confused as to why you just cut the bowden tube instead of releasing it the way it was designed?

[@thebuildbay]

I tried, it was stuck and I was too lazy to heat up the hotend to get it out more easily 😉

[@Tea4Joy]

Great video and some great upgrades which I would personally like to do to my ender 3 pro. But I have a question to your upgrade to the hotend shroud. Does it work with a microswiss hotend? I know that the spider hotend has slightly different dimensions but I cant say if it makes it impossible to use. Thank you in advance.

[@thebuildbay]

I can't promise anything, but if the dimension align, it should be fine. I also did a version for the Revo CR Hotend. Maybe that fits dimension wise. Just follow the link in the description to my Thangs profile

[@phillallen01]

will these fit the ender 3 v2 neo aswell

[@ravkhangurra7522]

Fantastic video, can you please advise the brand and type of red petg you used for the fan cover please. Thanks

[@thebuildbay]

Thank you, glad you like it! I have linked all used materials in the description or on my Thangs profile. The fan cover is printed with PLA from eSUN. The fan shroud with PETG, not sure which brand though...

[@ravkhangurra7522]

@@thebuildbay Thanks very much. Also one last question, does the fan duct also support 4020 fan instead of the usual 4010?

[@oldschool7771able]

Hi, I did the editing with the basic hotend but The fan ducts are too low it's not good. Do you have a solution?

[@thebuildbay]

I understand you took my design and applied it to the orginial hotend? That does not work, as my design is designed for the Spider Hotend, which is longer than the original hotend. You could try the original design, based on which I designed my hotend: grabcad.com/library/mbot3d-mk2_rev2-0-ender7-style-fan-duct-1 I hope that helps!

[@oldschool7771able]

@@thebuildbay hi, of course thanks you very much 👍

[@nuoke1866]

for the hotend conversion can I used ABS filament rather than PETG?

[@thebuildbay]

Absolutely, I think it is even better!

[@nuoke1866]

@@thebuildbay Thank you :D It's a nice looking hotend design!

[@yintang1000]

why not orbiter or lgx lite?

[@CaNNoN1981]

What type of Grease is best used on the Z - Axis poles?

[@thebuildbay]

Good question! I ended up using the package that came with the upgrade kit...

[@imc5727]

You put a pancake step on to save weight then put a pointless sink on

[@thebuildbay]

Actually it helps quite well with heat dissipation. And the added weight is negligible, just a couple of grams of aluminum