Ender 3 v2 - The Ultimate upgrades and mods to perfect prints

[@Sam-mo2lk]

One of the most authentic and practical video about 3d printer upgrades.

[@PWNHUB]

7:40 change your stepper motor to a pancake style stepper w/ around half the weight of the original. The added mass is causing the issues at higher speeds. Theoretically speaking at higher speeds a direct drive w/ less mass should extrude better, ofc the vibrations from the head slinging around w/ a stepper are to be considered.

[@ariafpv]

What pancake style stepper would be suitable for an ender 3 v2? I'm new to 3D printing and will get my ender next week but would like to make a direct drive upgrade to mainly print TPU

[@makeIT0]

It really depends on what DD solution you want to use

[@ariafpv]

@@makeIT0 at first I would just use a very basic printed solution for the stock parts. Anyways I think less weight would be beneficial

[@makeIT0]

@ARIA FPV, It might be the best choice. print a plate, mount it, done. This is the one I had used: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803107. It had been working very well for me.

[@ariafpv]

@@makeIT0 will print one. Did you use PLA???

[@afrenc3931]

I appreciate that you make captions for your videos, and that they are well thought out. Great video!

[@hopelessdecoy]

Thank you for the direct drive bracket!! Never thought to look something like that up and it gives me a cool idea too.

[@nikoraasu6929]

You still do not have klipper? Literally the first big upgrade I did - and still believe that it is the best one by far. It fixed 90% of the problems I had on marlin.

[@makeIT0]

I should give it a try later. The reason I haven't done yet is that I don't want to change anything related to the power supply without installing a smoke detector. I usually keep the machine running over night in my garage so I would first get a smoke detector then do big changes on the board and wiring part.

[@nikoraasu6929]

@@makeIT0 You don't really need to change anything in the board, I didn't need to when I installed klipper

[@jothain]

I got Ender 3 V2 for kickers. I was insanely astound about 1 motor Z-axis. I just printed brackets and used one old unused motor and rod/nut parts I had lying around. Then just wired to original motor. Has worked just fine in parallel. Also changed to some 3rd part PEI sheet, stiffer springs and BL-touch. Machine as been on quite low use I have mk3s which is my main go to. But I should still definitely change that ender to direct drive, which is why I'm here.

[@ivsil9858]

Thank you for being so generous with your information. very grateful. godspeed and happy new year to you!

[@makeIT0]

Thank you @Iv Sil, Happy new year to you too!

[@Sphyxx]

Me who has barely any clue of what most of it all is: I like your funny words magic man.

[@trevorbraswell5764]

Where did your change your Z motor voltage reference after the Dual Z-axis upgrade? How do you determine the new voltage? Also, Great video, well broken out into stages and lots of good info about what helped your prints and what was just cosmetic.

[@avejst]

great to hear som feedback from the Afterburner. Great video as always 👍🙂 thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂

[@makeIT0]

Thank you Asger!

[@Andy-rq9ni]

Afterburner is amazing

[@manpreetsingh46]

@@Andy-rq9ni link for the ender3V2 please

[@shiftyjesusfish]

Dear lord I cannot possibly overstate the value of the auto bed level sensor. I'm sure there are better and worse ones. But simply having one will save you SO MUCH TIME

[@makeIT0]

So true! but this is a big world, some people love to do manual bed levelling...

[@Karol_Borek]

End quality is really outstanding!

[@makeIT0]

Thanks!

[@Solice-lx8mk]

For the elephant foot issue, I found that simply calibrating your e-steps and taking the average diameter of the filament you're currently using and inputting that into your slicer filament diameter box has completely eliminated the need for elephant foot compensation.

[@brandonbrown3600]

Best upgrade is the User mod. You learn how to calibrate and tune your slicer and square and adjust the machine. About the only upgrades really worth while for quality of life is the extruder and a all metal or bimetal heatbrake. Direct drive is a slow down and not needed, dual Z is not needed, so many things not needed.

[@makeIT0]

Thanks. We may probably focus more on the creation instead of tinkering the printer itself. LOL. You could see at the end of the video, the quality improvement is actually trivial.

[@tactikool4740]

For the afterburner if you run Klipper with the Ender3 you can get better speeds with better printing. I have both an Ender 3 and 5 with Afterburner and they print great at high speeds.

[@bashful3026]

2:50 Is this because the cable is spliced to both motors? so you have to account for the extra(voltage)?

[@stefangitzen1534]

Can you give more details about the dual Z-axis? Especial how to adjust the voltage of the steppermotor

[@makeIT0]

Check here kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6C4oqxjr5WKiLM&ab_channel=makeIT

[@vidarsjogren]

nice vid! just watch out so your eccentric nuts on the v-rollers aren't too tight, this can increase wear on the v-rollers and lessen their lifespan.

[@BigHonkinGoose]

Not to mention bind up your z axis something fierce. Which is what I have spent the last hour wrestling with as I install a 2nd z screw.

[@makeIT0]

@vidar sjögren Thanks! I do have some spare pulleys though LOL. but it looks good so far as ABS is not heavy

[@chuuba_lover]

yep,lol i did that

[@jasonchaves9788]

hi, I've a question... to place the corner bracket, do you remove the Z-Axis sensor?

[@pecas3484]

What kind of layer fan do you use with afterbunner?? Can i use a noctua fan??

[@costimanea6076]

Great video , and funny enough i did the same modifications as you did over time (maybe some different manufacturers here and there) and I want to get to step 3 as you did . There is one more thing i am interested, and maybe you want to share: PLA+ and or ABS profiles for Cura/Prusa. I ran into a problem after i installed the direct drive & CR touch(both in the same time with FW update), but if i want to print anything from Cura, extruder goes nuts and ejects 400mm plastic in 1 sec damaginf eventualy the nozzle. with standard profile in Prusa i do not have this . I checked if the Filament runout is enabled, and disabled it in Start g-code with the same results. Thanks in advance

[@makeIT0]

Thanks you Costi! great mind think alike LOL! No special settings for PLA and ABS for me, I most use the default profile with changes on the temperature (eSun PLA+: print bed 65C, hotend 245C. ABS: hotend 260C, bed 110C, retraction 1mm as I am using DD) Have you calibrated your extruder? Also do check extruder step/mm and also make sure you copy all default configuration from default ender 3 v2, and then do your modification base on it. This is how I do it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ep63on15o5ylgbs it might help

[@xXKisskerXx]

I disagree, it's full of biased thoughts isntead of factual information. Like not needing a filament guide, or a runout sensor because of some personal bad experiences had. Or the 'buy creality official' dual z - you can look up the pitch and thread count of Z rods... then you match it... it's just.. very biased in every aspect, and almost kissing up to creality. PEI isn't the best ABS printing solution etiher, especially due to cost. your better off with some G10/FR4 board and obviously a enclosure to prevent warping (something not touched on, due to lack of experience)

[@normanziegelmeyer7693]

Hi I appreciate your work, thanks. Hoiw are the corner brackets installed, mine machine doesn't have any holes for this. Thanks

[@ubiratamuniz]

Howdy! As you mentioned you are printing ABS, it's only a matter of time before you enclose your printer. When you do, check your printed printer upgrades. If they are made from PLA, they WILL deform from air temperature when the printer is enclosed. Believe me , I've been there. LOL... had my BL Touch mount (and some other stuff) melt during longer ABS prints. I did use direct drive for a few months, but believe me, I went back to Bowden later. It's easier to mantain. I use a standard PTFE tube though, I hated the Capricorn because it's a part meant for more precision and does not bode well with cheaper filaments which might not have good quality control. No problem with temperature for me, as I also upgraded to an all metal hot end, and I print Tritan a lot (making parts for my car). You just got a new subscriber. Best wishes from Brazil!

[@makeIT0]

Thank you for sharing your experience! I agree with PLA deformation issue, so I will probably leave this one as it is without using an enclosure. I have a Prusa printer too, so I will put that into an enclosure LOL. A well tuned Bowden extruder can print as good as a direct drive one, I really dont see any quantity improvement with a DD. The benefit might just be reduced extraction (reduced print time) and work with flexible filament. For me I have to draw a line on upgrading my Ender 3 v2, I don't want to spend too much on it as the frame is not the best. That's why I haven't yet tried better hot end and liner rails. Thanks! Happy new year and Best wishes from Melbourne!

[@seancook4317]

i just installed an anti backlash kit on the z screw thingy to try and get rid of some Z issues, right now, for some reason which i cannot understand one side of my bed doesnt level, even if i manually level it and it feels level, it'll be way off on the left side, and it wont print anything that isnt in the center of the bed, i dunno what the heck is going on, aside form taking it all back apart and re building myself (i didnt build it, my friend did) i have no idea what the issue is, a calibration cube printed perfectly, besides a tiny elephants foot, i am now going to try an dual z kit, maybe something is warped with my printer (ender 3 v2) i have an used ender 3 i got for cheap but i need to flash the firmware and i'm scared to mess it up :(

[@heavensfugitive6447]

adding weight to the already heavier direct drive extruder also creates issues when printing at faster speeds.

[@GilbertIII-ke1di]

Then don’t print at 4000 mm a second

[@CROW_BH11]

Can I ask for advice on my pla quality how can I contact you? Thanks

[@Sigma_Rules_Bros]

how did you printed the face mask? oreintation ? and is that something you printed from ender 3v2 or U glued it ?

[@eross21]

so with the bl touch sensor. does it map out the print bed and modify the g code to compensate? or i’d it just a way to level the bed more accurately ?

[@darrengilbert8467]

It measures highs and lows and actively adjusts the z offset to compensate for any peaks and valleys

[@MikeHammer1]

Ten extra upvotes for the lead extruder.

[@E-sk8Fr]

I already got a CR10S upgraded but wanted a smaller printer as well. Would you recommend a Ender 3 v2 that I will upgrade with a BL Touch 3.1 or .... the recent R1 available for 350 euros... ?

[@makeIT0]

You mean Ender 3 S1? I would go for Ender 3 S1 directly. If you would like to try different printers, you should try Prusa mk3s+ or voron switchwire for other smaller options

[@hobbylyfe4716]

How did you set z axis motor voltage?

[@madorax251]

what vref number did you use for x y z and E with a 1A pancake steper motor? I'm almost done with your version 3 mod.

[@makeIT0]

Great! hope you enjoy it. the stock vrefs for X, Y and E work great for me after some testing. I've only changed the vref on Z to 1.5v due to the dual z axis upgrade.

[@madorax251]

the vref value in the stepper driver X Y Z is 1.14v and E is 1.27v but the stepper motor y is a bit hot is that reasonable? should i lower the vref value for the stepper driver Y?

[@makeIT0]

I guess you can turn the E down to around 1v (It really depends your motor specs). Let me post a video next week for the detail calculation. :) Here is a good post as well: all3dp.com/2/vref-calculator-tmc2209-tmc2208-a4988/ Stepper motors can be very hot, and it's pretty normal.

[@madorax251]

@@makeIT0 my spec nema 23mm steper motor 1A currently i am using vref value 1.30V is that too high? i want my 3v2 ender to print abs in enclosure do you have any suggestion for electronic parts and steper motor is safe to print abs inside enclosure with print time above 5 hours

[@madorax251]

do you have a discord so i can call and ask about mod ender 3 v2 if you don't mind

[@zola5584]

U said the after burner cooling is nkt enough at 80mm/s speed, if i know well there is an option to use 5015 fan with a mod on afterburner thats make more airflow isnt it?🤔

[@makeIT0]

Thanks! I will give it a try when I get a 5015 fan.

[@Cosmicnomadzaa]

Thanks for the video ! Do you have a link to the sword you did demonstration with please ?

[@makeIT0]

Thanks! this is the original design: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3639693 I printed a remix version: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4715295

[@thejasdavalath3998]

Did you have to switch out a new board to accommodate the dual z axis, or are you running the two a stepper motors in parallel?

[@makeIT0]

I am using the stock board with two stepper motors in parallel

[@blackis1337]

how about you share your own thoughts.. cool video though

[@FilamentFoundry]

Awesome video

[@makeIT0]

Thanks!

[@odeball22]

I solved the elephants foot with setting bed at 50c and heat up 50 c

[@RamonChiNangWong078]

Wait, you solve the elephant foot with dual Z axis. but that's too much work for me to do Is there no other alternative?

[@makeIT0]

Printing extra bottom support layers might be the easiest if physical changes is too much for you. Other solution such as belt driven z are even more complicated than this.

[@yotam6x7]

A lot of the issues you raise here are addressed on the Ender 3 S1. Do you think that at about 1.7x the price of the V2 it's worth it?

[@makeIT0]

I think it depends on what type of person you are. If I were to make the choice again, I would probably go for an End3 pro+Mod parts. If a friend who asks a productivity printer, I would recommend Prusa i3. I haven't got a chance to try Ender 3 S1, but from the way I look it, it should be a great choice if you don't have the budget for getting a Prusa i3.

[@yotam6x7]

@@makeIT0 Thanks for the advice! Looks like I'm going to go for a Sidewinder X2 though

[@charlesrestivo870]

How do I measure the voltage for the dual z axis

[@makeIT0]

Check here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6C4oqxjr5WKiLM. you simply find the Z label on the board and measure it using a multimeter

[@nvmarvelous]

None of the links work.. takes me to new machines not the parts

[@ObiWanPL]

Do You have micro swiss hotend?

[@makeIT0]

No, I don't. I am still using the ender 3 v2 stock hotend

[@thaboseane502]

And after all this, you'd have spent the same amount as a Prusa MK3s+ kit.🤔

[@makeIT0]

LOL. I purchased Prusa MK3s+ kit with around 1K AUD (+shipment). The Ender 3 v2 + upgrading costs me around 600-700 AUD, however if I take the cost of my time into account, It's definitely not worth it!

[@allffrommars6019]

1.5V is to much for 2208 👍 they should run by 0.8 - 0.9V 😁

[@zola5584]

1,5 v is for two paralel connected Z stepper?🤔

[@allffrommars6019]

@@zola5584 and 4 stepper 3V ? Magic smoke v👍

[@zola5584]

@@allffrommars6019 what? i guess u didnt answer my question 😅

[@j2r7]

@@zola5584 the wire extender is connecting the motor in series not parallel

[@paultrimble9390]

Nice 👍🏻

[@makeIT0]

Thanks ✌️

[@leahannwhite1111]

👍💓!!!

[@kilogee700]

I have a stock Ender 3 v 2 with Bowden tube upgrade bl touch magnetic bed and I get better prints than this.

[@lanypuspasari1868]

do you have a Whatsapp or email that I can contact? I really want to learn from you about 3d printing and 3dprinter modifications like this.

[@anu_start]

Lol, nut covers

[@dadetson1204]

1k ;)

[@AustrianDeathMachine9]

another voron kid

[@mdcoolcomrat]

Bad video. My only upgrades were direct drive mount, Satsana fan duct and Jyers firmware. Now I print with 100mm/s at 1000 mm/s2 (quality profile) or 150mm/s at 2000mm/s2 (rough profile) with no problems. I only paid for longer E motor cable and I am very happy with results. I also want Linear/Pressure advance for better acceleration control, but this is only achievable with 3rd party motherboard. What you did wrong: - elephant foot is easily treated with slicer settings. No need to purchase second lead screw unless you want very (!) high precision - bearings on top of z axis have a high chance to deform the lead screws over time and cause severe layer height consistency issues - Capricorn tube is nice, but it will eventually get worn out by fitting. This will cause clogs inside hotend, unless you tighten your nozzle often - My e3v2 base wobbles too, and best way to fix this is to just put a piece of anything (paper in my case) under wobblling foot. That's fine as long as bed is properly leveled. - Afterburner adds weight for your hotend, this causes your problems at high speed. Better print some lightweight fan mount like Satsana. Good parts: - I use similar mount for direct drive and it makes wonders for print consistency. - PEI sheet is probably good, but I'm fine with glass. Biggest part I printed was 600g and 23cm tall, no issues. - BL Touch is fine.

[@makeIT0]

Thanks for the insightful information so others can try yours too.

[@mickandkez]

Perfect Prints hahaha WOW they are much worse Benchy's then I could achieve when my ender 3 was stock! Now with just CR-Touch, Glass Bed, Dual Z and 4.2.7 ONLY my prints are like glass. People need to learn how to fine tune their settings and configure their setups and stop modifying until they can at least do the basics of the firmware and calibration side first.

[@shapshooter7769]

I would add dual-gear extruder on the Bowden to prevent slippage - but also try to figure out the knee between flow rate and pressure curve.

[@genebenny7514]

Seems like a shit printer out of the box

[@CHITUS]

nice vid! just watch out so your eccentric nuts on the v-rollers aren't too tight, this can increase wear on the v-rollers and lessen their lifespan.

[@makeIT0]

Thanks for the tip!