7.3 Powerstoke Diesel F250 F350 HPOP - High Pressure Oil Pump Leak Rebuild

[@miguelmendez4690]

thank you for this video from NEW JERSEY I, have one track 2001 F350 liking so much oil GOD bless you and your family love ❤️ my trok GOD bless America 🇺🇸

[@tbahrs9467]

I used a cheap Shower Valve Socket Set from home depot to get my IPR off - wasnt pretty but it worked !

[@BrianJohnson-ih1hb]

Also you can go to harbor freight and get a set of front wheel drive axle sockets and there is one that will fit the ipr valve

[@psegler]

A 29mm axel socket from autozone and a swivel head ratchet works on the IPR.

[@johnstockwellmajorsmedleyb1214]

Or a shortened stem wrench with more holes...

[@davidwood1923]

Thanks for Sharing... Very Helpful Video. Just Learning the ins and outs of these things

[@aspenschroeder6117]

Aside from the “umms” great video man

[@501Bravo]

I wish you'd actually rebuilt the pump... Refreshing the seals is great, and a valuable knowledge. But, I actually want to rebuild one. That would involve taking off that cover you said don't fool with.

[@michaelwilliams5234]

Agreed, left out the large gear seal.

[@oceanfrontlifestyle9244]

I’ve use a close end to remove IPR. Old one was 1 1/8 and new one is 1 1/16 wrench.

[@dirtmike400]

Make sure to use motorcraft grey diesel rtv or it will leak. I learned the hard way.

[@willystevenson7932]

29 mm oil socket works. Deep enough too.

[@curtissharris8914]

I've got some oversized HPOP fittings. Takes a 1" socket to remove. They were leaking so I removed went to Oring shop got new rings. Cleaned everything and put loctite green on last 3 threads torqed to 25 ft lbs and the buggers still leak. Went got bigger O ring for base still leaks any ideas appreciated. Fittings not oem they are larger.

[@mattketchum1809]

FYI. I spoke to a TamerX technician regarding the removal of the springs behind the quick connect fittings. It is not necessarily required to remove these. In theory it could increase your mass flow rate, but I believe the springs are required to prevent oil in the lines from seeping back into the pump after shut off. This somewhat keeps the lines “primed”. This is just my speculation and if anyone has information as to why the springs are needed I would be interested to learn. It looks to me that the back side of the TamerX fittings and the OEM ones are very similar, so I’m not sure why you would remove these, unless there’s a benefit that out weighs the design intent.

[@renehebert4431]

Matt Ketchum I would like to know also ... it seems like it would help the pump build pressure

[@cr3682]

Anybody watching this do not run the hydraulic lines he is going to put on! Rubber hydraulic hose isn’t rated for the high temps under your hood. The rubber will prematurely break down and fail. Oh and the bolt holding the gear on is an 18mm. Other than that good video and thanks for making it.

[@renehebert4431]

C R I just ordered the same hoses there rated for 300 degrees... same type of lines work great on heavy equipment I run

[@dr.z3426]

I got the jic lines from riff raff

[@kmeinh7097]

Did your transmission warm up while idling with initial start up of hpop replacement? Mine went up a quarter on gauge. Don't remember it doing that before. Haven't drove yet just warmed it up today

[@scottknows9432]

HPOP only effects the engine, not the transmission. However the transmission cooler is undersized for most 7.3s, which is a leading cause to transmission failure. I added a secondary cooler to mine a couple years ago.

[@kmeinh7097]

@@scottknows9432 thanks alot. I figured. I'm gonna get a Moshimoto cooler. Just weird. Maybe hot Florida weather to. Mine is a 03 xlt

[@tedenderpalmer6550]

What is the function of the springs under the line fitting?

[@kinksbikes]

thank you finally found one of my leaks

[@johnwythe1409]

What happens if the check ball behind in NSP is missing, or not in the right place. Will that cause long cranking starts, and rough running, or is that just to stop the reservoir from draining back to the oil pan when not running? What is the other check ball for. I replaced the seals on my pump, and now I get long cranking starts, and rough running. I also replaced all the external o-rings on the drivers side injectors hoping to fix a cold no start (40F and below) turned out was the GP relay. Pretty sure the issue is HPO pressure. going to put a scanner on to see if I can get a reading on the HPO pressure. Also going to check the IPR again, before pulling the pump again.

[@scottknows9432]

If the check ball is missing the engine will likely not build adequate pressure to start. It has to be in the exact correct place. I know from experience, as when I first did this project I didn't realize I had tilted the pump when working on it and lost the check ball completely. Same thing happened, long cranking, but no starting. If the HPOP seals, lines etc. on your truck are bad or missing, this could also cause rough starting/running etc. as it isn't building or maintaining pressure. If you aren't 100% sure that the check ball is in there or in the correct place, I would recommend you pull it off and check. Ensure the springs are in there too as described in the video. I know its a lot of work, but knowing what happened to me last time and it were my truck, I would be pull the HPOP again. Good luck!

[@johnwythe1409]

@@scottknows9432 Thanks Scott. I feel the same way. I was just hoping by the symptoms I could rule out the check balls, and avoid pulling the pump again to check the balls for no need. The engine does start and run, just rough. knocking to begin with. Lot of white smoke, or water vapor. Thought I might also have rewired the injector/glow plug harness incorrectly, but pulling the plugs on each injector does make it run worse. I don't think the firing order is out of place. I only did the drivers side. Some people say there are 2 different gaskets for the HPOP to reservoir depending on the year. Is there a way to tell the difference? I did compare the old a new before I put the new one in, but didn't know at the time there was a possible difference. All it would take is one hole miss aligned.

[@johnwythe1409]

@@scottknows9432 Thinking more about those check balls. Seems the one with the spring would be the pressure relief valve so pump doesn't build too much pressure. If it was wrong or bad it would not build any pressure, The other (NSP) being the back flow check valve. Given it is a small hole, it could allow the pump to build some pressure, but not any where near its max. Darn. Was hoping to avoid pulling the HPOP again, but sai la vie? Live and learn. lol!

[@johnwythe1409]

Okay, so I got the pump out. Darn hose release wouldn't work for some reason this time. so unscrewed the connectors. Didn't lose the springs lol! The back pressure ball was in place, but I am pretty sure the pressure relief ball was not. Put the pump back together. Still have to put it back in the truck, and test. Fingers crossed. lol!

[@johnwythe1409]

@@scottknows9432 Well, it is running well now. Passenger side injector/GP connector had come loose. Runs great once it starts. Problem is hot or cold, takes a lot of cranking before it fires up. Will start up right away if shut off and restarted. Leave for 5-10 mins, needs lots of cranking. Any idea what I might have missed or messed up? No check engine light. The ANCEL BD 200 Bluetooth scanner I have is not working with those vehicle. Working with ANCEL to get it working.

[@lennydodson4223]

What was the reason for rebuilding the hpop? Mine cranks but dont start any help would be appreciated. It is a 96 with a 7.3

[@FloydGould-m2r]

I thought you were going to rebuild the internals

[@chenchoortuno1264]

Man I should have watched this video man. I didn’t pay attention and dropped my check ball and edge filter from my non serviceable plug and I lost them. Not sure where they fell

[@chrissims6289]

I've got oil leaks and a loss of power, it has gotten worse to a severe loss of power. When the hpop leaks or the turbo or pedestal seals leak, does it cause that? I am going to buy the tool to check my injectors. But wanted to rebuild both the turbo and hpop

[@TheRealKRUE]

Any videos on the removal process you recommend?

[@scottknows9432]

This gentleman does a nice job covering both the fuel bowl and HPOP removal. Pay attention to the hints on socket sizes/lengths etc. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqqQaGyGfLxom9k

[@eugeneyakubson3879]

It’s 18 mm bolt on the front By the gear

[@kmeinh7097]

What year is your 7.3 hpop in this video??

[@scottknows9432]

1999

[@azscib]

great vid but would much better if you did the reseal as you talked vs just talking about what you already done. Great presentation!!!

[@CheapRidesAutoSales]

He-man? This dude is old!!! How do i know 😂?

[@lexinemi1]

My Friend, your videos are great & great explanation on everything. If I lived close to you, I will feel more than confident in letting you work on my 7.3. Good job! Do you have an email you can provide? Thanks again

[@SauloAmador-v4z]

Torque please

[@BrianJohnson-ih1hb]

Bolt on front is 18 mm

[@erased84]

My dad just had to pay $800 for his new pump because his exploded and the company that sold it to him wants him to send them an additional $450 rebuild fee so they can re-sell his old one. What a rip off. I'm gonna show him this video tomorrow. Him & I rebuilt it back in May but something broke loose (Still trying to figure that out) and of course the truck is DOA and has no oil lol

[@BrianJohnson-ih1hb]

Front cover is 8 mm bolts

[@jameshawk2470]

cookie

[@rafaelugalde6707]

What is your e-mail? I need you help me. Reassembly my HPOP

[@Tom-pn5sk]

What is a H - ... POP? New one on me.

[@1412izzy]

High pressure oil pump...

[@o10productions46]

Dang that seal kit cost me 114 bucks from amazon

[@fordmech7913]

Rebuild more like orings kit

[@kevinmcgee5989]

Not true! You just have to do is take a grinder with a paddle sander pad 80 gt and just take a little bit off of one side done!

[@pilgrim666butters]

HE is incorrect about how to remove the IPR you can use a normal deep well 1 1/8 socket you just have to modify it a lil and drill out the center so the ipr can slide through and not bottom out. Then just slide the socket over the IPR and only insert the socket wrench into the drive as much as you can you will only get about half bite.

[@slomotion3138]

Bizket Butt he's not incorrect, just has a better way

[@pilgrim666butters]

@@slomotion3138 yes but its misleading to someone who may just need to rebuild there IPR

[@hankclingingsmith8707]

Reseal,not rebuild. That is what you are doing.

[@markfischer1012]

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