7 - How to Make a Butcher Block End Grain Cutting Board (Full Video)

Watch our newest video: "A Fancy Dead Blow Hammer, a Back-Saving Quick Lift, and a Bargain Router Plane | Tools Unleashed 02 "
• A Fancy Dead Blow Hamm... -~-
This is still the original cutting board video, just the 2 parts have been made into 1 and the video quality improved. Originally published on December 22, 2006. For the original post with additional comments & pdf plan, visit our website: www.thewoodwhis...
One of my favorite woodworking projects is a butcher block end-grain cutting board. Im not sure if its the "back to basics" simplicity or just the fact that it is one of the most useful projects a woodworker can make, but something keeps bringing me back for more. A custom cutting board makes a great gift and many woodworkers make them in batches every Holiday Season. And if you are relatively new to woodworking, this is a great project to hone your milling, glue-up and tablesaw skills. I'll cover the preparation and construction of the board itself, as well as the various finishing options available. I'll also discuss how to maintain the board and keep it looking fresh for years to come!
Update: I never thought when I made this video that so many folks would find the plan useful and make their own. I think its safe to say this is the video that launched a thousand cutting boards! So you may already be very familiar with this design. But what you may not know is the fact that this design came about almost by accident. Once of my first cutting boards was a very large board made of purpleheart and birch (left). It turned out to be far too large for our kitchen. Nicole asked that I cut it down. So instead of just cutting trimming the length and width and calling it a day, I decided to have some fun with it. I sliced it into pieces, flipped the pieces 90 degrees, alternated their direction and glued them back together. The end result is the cutting board you see in this video. Quite a transformation! And I am so glad that so many of you were inspired to make your own, and even make some amazing variations on the concept.
The Wood Whisperer is education and entertainment for the modern woodworker! Find more at thewoodwhispere... & don't forget to subscribe to our KZbin channel! www.youtube.com...
Connect with us!
Follow us on Twitter / woodwhisperer
Like us on Facebook / thewoodwhisperer
Pin us on Pinterest / woodwhisperer
Learn more about our premium project videos at thewoodwhispere...

[@barryomahony4983]

I made about a dozen of these as Xmas presents for relatives when this pre-YT video came out, and people still cherish them to this day. I used Padauk because at the time my supplier was out of Purpleheart.

[@acrowley5094]

An oldie but goodie!

[@deliaguzman1138]

This video is 8 years old, and I’m cracking up at your backwards cap and soul patch! I’m used to current day you-you’ve grown up nicely! And thanks for the nice board design! Going with tung oil thanks to your latest cutting board finish video!

[@wincertactical1317]

I watched your video today because I am serious about getting started in making my own cutting boards. Boy am I impressed. Your video was awesome. It was very thorough and explained the entire process completely. You make the viewer very comfortable and knowledgeable at the same time. I even enjoyed your humor. Thank you very much for making this video. I can't wait to get started making my own using your valued instruction.

[@ianandlesyannegardner1356]

ditto

[@resipsa8343]

Best video here for making cutting boards. Thank you!

[@edwincastro3262]

Man. Just when I thought I’ve seen most of your videos a random one pops up and it just happens to be the one I’m interested at the time. People are reenacting your old videos and going viral 🤦🏽‍♂️ your videos are just awesome. You go into detail on the important things. Keep it short and simple yet so informative at the same time. Lol

[@garystrittmater8258]

Mark S., you ARE THE BOMB! I've followed you for years and I've taken classes from William Ng just to increase my chops! As a woodshop teacher, we've made several types of boards as projects, including end-grain boards, the kids were great and their parents were very impressed! Kudos on your magnetic/informal teaching style, it's always a pleasure! I ALWAYS learn something new when I watch your videos. Congrats, Mike

[@hotrodhog2170]

Great video! Easy and precise with good info! The one thing missing is telling folks how you arranged the grain in the same direction to avoid cracking and that you used the wood that you did because they are similar in the way they expand and contract.

[@danielmcginniss982]

I have finally got to a point where I felt ready to make these. I just watched this video about 6 more times after the previous 20 times over the last few months. Am I the only one that was going nuts trying to figure how to get the boards to create the skinny strips down the middle as opposed to the outside. I finally talked myself into believing it’s two different layouts on the first process. Maybe that was the intention. Thanks for these Mark. If you only knew the inspiration you provide to us hobbyists.

[@TinyBasementWorkshop]

7 years old 😁 funny to see the development you went through! Still great content to watch 😊👍🏼

[@ozzy8756]

My wood shop teacher attached this video to watch while we’re on break for corona virus, thanks Boelhauf

[@SOG312]

Boelhauf sent this to me too, are you wood 1 or wood 2 and above

[@RS-oo5yq]

Wood 16. Plebe.

[@MichaelSmith-nk4yq]

Thanks Mark, really appreciate this video as I am just making some cutting boards. Seeing how you got the end grain and your explanation was brilliant. Keep up the good work. 👍🏾👍🏾

[@KeelanDimick]

Amazing tutorial, thankyou. As a suggestion, that stock jazz piano sample is the go-to for so many videos and it immediately makes me associate your video (which is special) with all of the thousands of other videos with the same sample. If you need jazz piano samples I'm happy to help free of charge!

[@alanbagwell2476]

Great Video. one thing to keep in mind, when melting beeswax, use a double boiler. The flash point of beeswax is around 400 degrees Fahrenheit (200 Celsius). If you get careless, you have a fire to deal with. I enjoy the videos, keep up the good work. Now I have to get to work making my wife one of these.

[@michaeljameson1046]

Wow some water has gone under the bridge since you made this one cheers

[@cartoon80s90s]

Excellent video. Showing all the steps in detail and offering alternatives is always great. Thank you for all the information on waxing and safety.

[@seanm.kingsr.1384]

10:20 rolled around and I thought I was hearing a Food Wishes video starting in another tab... LOL (GREAT job on this tutorial --- can't wait to try it out... :) )

[@jdd1955]

I thought the same thing!

[@dannyshlomo9285]

AHA, it was on the tip of my tongue and couldn't remember where I heard it that music from. lol

[@AusyG]

Shellac is made from the shell of the lac beetle. M&M is one of the biggest users of this finish in the food industry.

[@darylburr1164]

Good job on the cutting board, something I use for a food grade finish is pure tung oil mixed with citrus solvent at equal parts.

[@BackyardWoodworking]

Great video I must have watched it 10 times over the years. Thanks Mark. Roland

[@MindyourMatters]

Your a great teacher! Thank yoi

[@GK-qz3cm]

Great video. Thanks.

[@marvinboswell6889]

Enjoyed this 👌 👍

[@CoffeeAdventureTraveler]

Thanks for a nice video to explain the process. I was looking to purchase a can of Salad Bowl Varnish, and found this WARNING on the can,, "Not for actively used butcher block counter tops that are used for chopping and cutting" FYI, not for cutting or butcher block boards. Back to BEE Wax & Food Grade Mineral oil, keep the videos coming, you have a great presentation.

[@williambradley3448]

Really good video Mark - Thanks. I would also recommend routing a channel about a quarter inch in from the edge of the board all round using a 6.3 mm half round cutter to collect meat juices.

[@AngeliqueKaga]

What a beautiful job!

[@escapefromny2012]

Glad to see someone make one without a planer. I wish I had a planer, but most of us have to sand.

[@cherkruger1166]

If you dont have a planer you can use a drumsander which I would recommend as the planer can cause chip out and that would mean that you would have to try and salvage or start all over. There are videos showing how to make a drumsander if you cant buy one, I have been make jigs for the table saw and bandsaw, that is a great way to learn too. All the best to you I hope you come right. Btw using a sander can cause your pieces to be uneven, as a wood worker I know how disappointing that can be

[@robertspina4503]

Beautiful board I am gonna give this one a try great video by the way

[@jackrobinson3684]

This is a great educational video for me. My question is your recommendation on a cross cutting blade when cutting across the end grain pieces. I had horrible chip-out on the top and bottom. As my name implies, I'm a novice at this and can't thank you enough for all your videos and tips.

[@ugoleftillgorite]

+Wood Rookie If cost is a concern to you (it definitely is to me), I have found the Freud D1050X to be a very adequate all-purpose blade. It has worked well for plywood, cross-cutting, and ripping. At around $33 on Amazon, it doesn't break the bank either. If you are looking for a dedicated, expensive cross-cutting blade, I'm afraid I don't have much advice in that area.

[@RimmNation1]

Great video man; informative, helpful, and entertaining.

[@libertymaniac]

Great video. To the point, detailed, great info.

[@zacharyharbison3298]

Food wishes anyone????

[@Leeu6543]

Thanks for the inspiration and clear explanation!

[@stacygerlich5807]

HI Mark, Great video. Love the detailed explanation of each step. Beautiful board

[@bellscustomwoodworking9058]

I just finished a maple end grain cutting board last week

[@Grabber10]

Mark, Love all your videos. Made this cutting board and the pattern turns out different than yours. I have the boards the way you say but different pattern.

[@Evipicc]

Awesome video, thank you. Comedic elements need some polishing by I will watch every video you make. A cutting board like this could last 100 years if it's cared for.

[@mjb12141963]

You can also use vegetable oil on all your wood tools in the kitchen. You use it the same as the mineral oil. I don't know about adding wax to it, I have never heard of that process. I learned this in culinary school.

[@glong2720]

Memories

[@AZTigerlilly]

Going to have to try it out..

[@mcminnman]

Great video, going to make one this weekend.

[@reprosser]

I noticed that the pattern on the finished board is different than at the start of the project. I just finished making two of them and was trying to figure out why my pattern was different.

[@retrospect702]

awesome tips and thanks for the videos!

[@tdavey5599]

Your videos are AWESOME

[@jeffb5463]

Excellent!

[@cozysoloco3934]

love this video might do it in woodshop- class

[@herculesmelo8118]

Lindo trabalho, muito lindo mesmo. Parabéns

[@chrisweigand1817]

Love your videos. I have a question about grain direction. Does it matter when making an end grain board? Opposing grain is fine? Basically is there any thing I need to worry about grain direction wise when making an End grain board? I’m only asking because I’ve gotten through the first panel glue up and cross cut all my pieces and came up with this amazing design in my eyes, I just don’t know the rules about grain direction in an in grain board. Thanks in advance Mark

[@Monsterputjes]

Thank you! Great video

[@tomtomlin7127]

Thank you good upload very helpful.

[@hourof10]

LMAO. Did anyone else think of @foodwishes with chef John at 10:20?

[@cjsport98]

I love heating up mineral oil with beeswax... It gives a great sealcoating

[@will1867]

Nice video, very informative and made me laugh when you were washing it. definitely worth watching

[@Thebatjoeny]

Phenomenal ! Great lesson great tips and info keep it up!!

[@majorsmackdown]

Great Video !

[@realpdm]

This video has held up great over time. Much better than Marc has!! HEY OOOOHH just kidding!

[@curtaarsvold9198]

Great video I just wish someone would give advice on how to charge for such cutting boards thank you

[@davekaneshiro7745]

Hi Mark, after you cut them into strips and started arranging with the end grain facing up, it looked like it was a different board altogether. The thin strips were in the middle, whereas after initial glue up the thin strips were close to the outside. Maybe I’m looking at it around? Regardless, this is a beautiful board!

[@acupsa]

That's what I thought too. It just didn't make sense for the patterns. Did you get a response for this question?

[@davekaneshiro7745]

@@acupsa unfortunately no response, but I’m sure there was more than one board when the video was made and edited

[@befmx31]

Marc, at 13:11 you thin down the food safe varnish with mineral spirits. Is it still a food safe finish then? Thanks.

[@DAVIDMILLER-nc9vo]

This video was made nine years ago and I think that Mark now realizes that the best cutting boards, according to professional chefs (who work eight hours a day), use plastic cutting boards. Both ASAHI and HASEGAWA make plastic cutting boards. They are not rubber. They are sometimes called "synthetic rubber" but they are plastic. They might respond to a knife blade like rubber would, but they are plastic. No commercial company makes rubber cutting boards. If you know of someone who makes rubber cutting boards, please respond.

[@sterlingrager7703]

Marc, I'm new to wood working and bought all the lumber. I'm looking forward to trying and make this cutting board. My question is: Once I the cool pattern, could i just clue 5 boards and 5 boards and make two cutting boards? Again, I'm new to wood working

[@MrSnootyPatooty]

For the sake of time savings (maybe sanity too), is it ok/possible to buy an unfinished, pre-fabbed, long grain butcher block counter top and just rip width wise and turn them 90^ and re-glue? Thanks and great video and series.

[@mercurionick]

Quick question - Are you cross cutting the board with a fence around 6:20? It seems stable enough to do, but I was always under the impression that one should never cross cut wood against the fence.

[@susanvasquez3625]

Never cut with both miter AND fence. Since most crosscuts are done with the miter, it is very common to say not to crosscut with the fence. The issue is, you never want to cross the blade with your body, so when using the miter the part against the fence is unattended. Unattended, it has a higher likelihood of shifting into the blade, getting pinched between blade and fence, and kicking back. Get around this by using a stopblock before the blade area, leaving plenty of room between blade and fence so if it does shift some, it just bumps a bit and no real kickback. Now, you CAN call him on crossing the blade with his body, which is never recommended (due to the potential for kickback), but it is not the crosscut on the fence that is the issue. But I think we all end up breaking this rule, sooner or later. Familiarity and contemppt and all... LOL Also, his splitter does have anti-kickback thing-a-ma-jigs, which help.

[@JS-rp7qb]

Who knew 1993 Joe Rogan is quite the woodworker?

[@georgegrunwald]

Yay, new video.

[@GlassImpressions]

not a new video... repost

[@nlfpv3206]

Note the difference in patterns in the two boards when they are being finished. Take care in how you arrange the boards as explained at 3:10 to achieve your desired block pattern. The pattern shown at 3:10 will yield the mineral oil finished board. While the pattern used at 6:35 will yield the varnish-finished board.

[@bye92]

Wow 5 years ago already be looks old 😕😲 great video even in 2019

[@woodwhisperer]

It was originally released in 2007

[@bye92]

@@woodwhisperer ah ok makes more sense!

[@Boomers_Bud]

Great stuff Mark. Derek

[@darrellarthaud1026]

I am a beginner woodworking and absolutely loved your video. Question....You said you are using 8/4 lumber (which my reading says that is 2") but your first piece is 2 1/4"???? I purchased cutting boards from woodworking source and they are 1 3/4" so am wondering what to do.

[@woodwhisperer]

2 1/4" is the width, not the thickness.

[@alexcourt8863]

Can you do a video describing the relationship between the thickness of the original board, the width of each cut, how you are rotating the pieces to glue, and the dimensions of the resulting board? I am confused, especially because I don't have the ability to change the thickness of my 8/4 boards, only flatten it.

[@cdouglas1942]

You can change the thickness of 8/4 boards with sequencial runs thru the table saw, small cuts, flipping board end for end after each pass. If this does not split the board use hand saw to finish.

[@DannyDaPorkchop]

Two questions: 1) Top, bottom, and all sides for the salad bowl finish? 2) The finish that I picked up at my local Lowe's stated not to thin it. Will this be an issue or should I go ahead and thin it anyway? Beautiful boards and I have enjoyed making my 3 so far. Just gotta get the final sanding, routing and finish in place so I can finally deliver my mother's day presents. Just a tad bit behind schedule.

[@susanvasquez3625]

Many finishes say not to thin, my understanding is that this is an environmental issue. Thinners are bad for the environment, thus if you do not thin the environment is happier. Thus the government doesn't want us to thin, and so finish makers put that on their cans to make the government happy.

[@ShawneeUnion]

Amazing overview

[@pjsullivan128]

Me again. I'm going to re-sand and I thought I would use the salad bowl finish. Good idea ???

[@Italianfoodtours]

Great video! Thank you. I heard that purple heart can be toxic and not sutible for cutting boards.. What do you think?

[@EmbraceTheThunder]

Is the volume of the wax (for the 25%bv) calculated before or after melting? I don't know how much the volume changes, but volume tends to change when you melt things.

[@srl3489]

I may be really stupid here but last I knew 8/4 is 2 inches and I can't afford the board stretcher to get 2¼ from the 8/4 boards. Little help please. I'm way late to this but am looking forward to making this board Any help appreciated

[@samb4486]

Hi Mark, Good video thanks. A question about your finish. I don't have any wiping varnish, but understand it is basically 50%varnish and 50% mineral spirits. So, for your cutting board finish, would mixing varnish on mineral spirt 1 to 1 get the same result? Regards, Sam

[@Ghritke]

My board has gaps between the final pieces -- not enough glue perhaps? wondering how to fix, don't want food getting in there.

[@martind.4930]

do the size of the stripes matter? I want to build some end grain cutting board from scrap maple stripes . I have several width. For the first glue-up, do I have to resaw the stripes all the same width or would it be OK to glue together a mix of 1'' width, 2" width, 1.5" width, 3'' width? Until I reach my desired total width.

[@victorporthos2465]

Hi Marc I´m a huge fan of your´s i have a few questions about this cutting board, i hope you can help me (i already did this project) 1.- in this video you present 2 different designs of your boards right? after the second cut the pattern its fifferent from the first i think 2.- in the video you said that the measures will be approximately 18" L x 14" W x 1 1/4" T, but with 11 strips (thats the number you said we need after the second cut) my board have only 14" L i supose that its a mistake in the number of strips, maybe with 13 or 14 strips i will have my 18" L right? PLEASE tell me if i´m right or what was my mistake because this freaking me out Thanks and congratulations, your project, videos and channel are great

[@peternickeas4048]

+Victor Porthos I noticed that too after putting it together. It seems that in the first part of the video, if the boards were matched up the way he mentioned, you wouldn't end up with the 3/4 inch pieces running next to each other along the middle for that thin checker pattern. I was confused when I looked at the final product I made and came back to watch a couple times to confirm.

[@fricasseekid]

Why no comment on the varnish quesion? Doesnt the varnish finishing method defeat the purpose of making an end grain cutting board? Also I didnt see the link to the General Finishes product in the write up.

[@cherkruger1166]

Varnish isnt food safe. I have seen that Watco have a food safe danish oil available. Or you could use mineral oil and beeswax, used this method for my daughters cutting board and it is working great, to clean use salt and lemon juice and re wax in needed

[@ComfortablyNumb1969]

Exactly what I was thinking. Why not protect your end grain up, cutting board with a nice piece of glass?

[@anthonyruggiero2882]

What blade are you using on your table saw? It cuts that wood like butter!

[@neilpiper2807]

You look so young😀

[@ragnkja]

The one advantage of a plastic cutting board is that you can wash it in the dishwasher.

[@raulflores2278]

I'm new to woodworking and this might be a stupid question but if you rip a board long grain and flip it on its side isn't it still long grain?

[@UsernameFECKLE]

That turns it into edge grain, to be exact. You have face grain, which is the "top" and "bottom" of a normal board, edge grain, which is the grain along the long "sides" of the board, and end grain, which is the grain on the short "sides" of the board. You are correct, if you rip cut a board it maintains the same properties of which grain is which, but doing the end grain block is a little different than that one step. That is only the first step in an end grain board. Let's say you have an 8/4 (pronounced eight quarters, which is a board of 2 inch rough cut thickness), 6 inch wide board that is S4S (surfaced on all 4 sides), so the actual thickness is about 1 3/4 inches, but it is smooth and ready to be jointed. You then take that board and cross-cut it into a 16 inch piece, still 6 inches wide, and take another board of the same thickness and width and cross-cut it into a 16 inch piece, still 6 inches wide, then you rip both of those 16 inch long pieces into 6 new "boards" that are 7/8 of an inch wide (due to the kerf of you table saw blade, they lose a certain amount of material, often about 1/8 inch). Now, you have twelve pieces that are 16 inches long, and 7/8 inches wide. You alternate these and edge joint them (as in the original "edge" from the first paragraph) which leaves the end grain exposed, just as with a normal board, on the "ends" of the piece of wood that is 16 inches long, and now 10 1/2 inches wide due to the rip-cut wood loss. Now, you are ready to prepare it for joining to expose the end-grain for the entire surface of the cutting board. You take this new 16" x 10 1/2" board, and cross cut it into eight strips that are 10 1/2" x 1 7/8" (again, 7/8 due to the kerf of your saw blade), so you have a bunch of strips that, when rotated 90 degrees on their long axis, expose the end grain to the "top" and "bottom" of your view. You can now join these eight 10 1/2" x 1 7/8" strips on their face grain and have a board that exposes the end grain to the top and bottom of your new cutting board, which measures 10 1/2" x 15". If this is confusing, let me know, and I will come back to it within a couple days.

[@mikepucser6821]

Hi Mark - I haave a couple questions for you. I am in the process of making this based on the directions that you have provided. However, mine are not coming out dim. like yours. When I cut the boards into 11 strips 1.250" like you suggest I only get about a 9 in x 12 in board. So I certainly am doing some thing incorrectly. Looking for some help as these are very cool boards.

[@jawadsaadi]

Great, again

[@pjsullivan128]

Ive made 10 cutting boards in the last few weeks. half long grain and half end grain. My girlfriend cut steaks on her end grain and i just noticed, one it stained from the blood and second, it seems there are "gaps" forming. I use titebond III glue and clamped with pole clamps. WHY would this happen ?

[@Xerock]

Does using mineral spirits to dilute a food-safe varnish reduce its rating as a food safe product?

[@burtwonderstone5906]

Can you use mahogany boards to make a cutting board?

[@jimgam730]

Mark, what finish would you use on a wooden mug? I want to make some and want a good food safe finish to put on them. Thanks

[@helmutmausser7207]

I have watched your video and read your article regarding finishing an end grain cutting board. I felt the technique of using the salad bowl finish would be the best bet so I tried it on my first cutting board. It seems to have sealed well but I was a little confused as too how long the odor from the finish would last. It's been 3 months and it still has the odor. I haven't tried to wash it to see if that would help with the odor. Today I tried the other method of using mineral oil and paraffin wax and I'm not too fond of this technique. I think I would rather use my first method but I don't care for the lingering odor. Do you how long it would usually take for the odor to disappear? Thanks

[@hotrodhog2170]

Did you dilute the salad bowl finish with mineral spirits like he did? That helps with the finish penetrating the board and evaporating for drying.

[@okeedoky0]

Question: How many cutting boards were used in the making of this video? Answer: At least 3. Nice trick Marc... The first board used in the intro has 11 stripes, the second board you show in the build process has 11 and the one you add the finish to has 19.

[@ragnkja]

Orange Crusher The intro could be filmed after the build, so it may just be two boards, though the fact that he showed two different finishes is enough to prove that he made at least two boards.

[@qaisarabo1126]

Thanks for the quick response! My very last question: When you say end grain cutting board is that really supposed to be "Quarter Grain"?

[@howycwap]

No, end grain. The board used could be, flat, rift or quartersawn. Though quartersawn is the most stable so it is the best to use. It doesent matter.

[@rubygordon9447]

MIn 2:35 is the BEST!!!

[@derwingholston2550]

Great board really excited to try, wondering how did you get a 18 in. board and the pieces are 15 in. long

[@kmcg8372]

Great video! Any thoughts on mahogany for a cutting board?

[@Bereft777]

Great video, love the purple heart though your blades don't. I am concerned that you used mineral spirits to cut the varnish making this board toxic. Check your MSDS

[@fricasseekid]

I think the mineral spirits are just used as a solvent to thin the varnish and help it soak deeper into the grain. !00% of the mineral spirits should evaporate.

[@baolong0430]

Hi Marc and everyone. I am a beginner and I have a "probie" question. Do you recommend using biscuits to join the strips in the last step? If you don't recommend, what is the main reason? Thank you much!

[@misscreant]

BaoLong Nguyen I was thinking the same thing.

[@cdouglas1942]

All boards carefully planed to same thickness, so no help needed from bisucits to level side to side.

[@tadzius5829]

Why would you use biscuits? They are useless and not needed in any glue-up, be it cutting board or tabletop. They offer no added strength or integrity. Their only possible benefit is they can help line up your boards in large glue-ups such as large tables... but they are not needed and a biscuit joiner is a waste of money.

[@andrewbraham81]

After doing the second glue up I noticed some uneven this on the height of each section. After resisting the urge to run it through the planer I am seeking advice on how to sand it down? Should I use a belt sander or orbital sander?

[@cdouglas1942]

Due to size of board belt sander works best for non-planer leveling, BUT besure to use ROS to eliminate heavy scarring from BS.

[@jean-philippegaudreault3549]

Personaly, I run my board through the planer but I put a sacrificial piece of wood (not end grain) in front and back of the board to prevent it from chiping. I suggest you to watch some of the video of mtmwood on You Tube to see how it goes.

[@radekwikturna6222]

I'm making the board just now and I have the very same problem. One side (the top one) is almost flat - I used a ROS and it took at least 15 minutes to smooth it (grit 80) as the wood I used is really hard (Ovangkol and beech). But the other side (bottom) is really uneven and I need to flatten it. Can't I use the planer for the bottom part? If not, why?