7 Street Photography Tips for STUNNING images!

[@jakeconnelly2441]

A tip for portfolios: I had small business cards printed up with my photos on one side and a QR code that links to my instagram on the back. Works just as well as carrying a physical book with you. They can pull up your work and no need to pull your phone out to show people.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Brilliant idea! I will copy that!

[@TheNarrowbandChannel]

"try to look at the world the way your camera sees the world" That is gold.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks Ben.

[@mihnea358]

I love using the 42.5mm for street photography, because I love taking pictures of people in certain situations and this lens, (85mm FF) gives me the opportunity to do so by not getting to close to the subject.

[@AliAlireza]

I use 17mm or 25mm olympus lenses with my olympus cameras. I find 17mm perfect in old cities with narrow streets and 25mm lens to photograph wider streets especially in the "newer" parts of the city.

[@mariemclaughlan5404]

Thanks Peter you given me a good start by having an assigment.

[@thegreatvanziniphotos5976]

Thanks, Peter. All good advice.

[@JanVizner]

Excellent video, Mr. Forsgard. Thank you very much.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Many thanks!

[@ThomasEisl.Photography]

Outstanding tips!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Glad you like them!

[@carmenfissenden2530]

Very vailed points you raised there Peter; especially about go out alone to shoot . I am often with the grandchildren and that creates distractions enough, but only made worse by taking the dog out to ha ha. Despite the obvious opportunities provided by the children ; and there are many, they are not as useful as what can be achieved when alone . Of course it doesn’t always translate in anything like the number of images one would like, but that is a different tale to speak of. To avoid a bulky zoom , I switch between 30mm 1.8 on my phone and 30mm 2.8 on the camera , giving me a 60mm field of view because of the double times factor on MFT cameras . This keeps the kit light and much more responsive when out and about . You know just when to use the rude angle view and when not to. This works equally well for travel as it does for street photography . I remember well the feeling of neck ache from walking about all day with a zoom attached to a camera. The only difference being that I chose a particular focal length on the zoom and only changed it when I had to . It is the same with a prime lens, with the exception that I used my legs to substitute for the zoom . It is also easier to be ignored by the subject snd on occasions the subject becomes interested in figuring out what you are up to , as you never seem to be taking pictures . This makes for some interstate expressions , as does approaching the startled subject to ask if they mind if I took their photo and then showing them the image after. Confidence comes from using our gear and having an idea of what we want as we come upon a scene of interest . The downside of where this creates frustration was when I had a coffee break and recognised one of those private school trips appear . The uniforms were delightful snd timeless , but I missed the shot because my hands were preoccupied with my granddaughter and the dog , who loves children , but had to be kept under control . With no hands free I could not reach for the phone or position the camera to take the shot . My daughters thought that was hilarious , as they know that I will photography anybody in a public space . In short , this is an example of where working alone I would have caught a classic image or two for the annual album . Thanks again Peter - perhaps others may have their own tales of images that escaped them ha ha - if so, I would love to hear them, as I am sure others here would too.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks for sharing.

[@devroombagchus7460]

Thanks Peter! I agree with everything, but you summarized it much better than I ever could. I often take out my 17 and 45mm on my Olympus. Long live the manual clutch on the 17. At f 5,6 or 8, the depth of field is impressive with MFT. As for setting a purpose, I also use the 12-45 and the 40-150 when I go for facades. Both wide shots and closer-ups of more distant details. Before I bought the Olympus, I was allowed to try a Sony with a lens that went from very wide to very tele. Spectacular, but for me impractical. Much too big and heavy to tote along.

[@joerghummerjohann4854]

Photography is a kind of meditation. Only possible, when alone (not talking about planned photoshootings with models, that's a different genre)

[@hedydd2]

You got me going there for almost the whole four minutes.

[@chrisbrown6432]

Excellent tips as usual. I will check out your 52 list. Thank you very much.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Glad it was helpful!

[@JanVizner]

Díky!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you very much.

[@cht1963]

Very good channel. Very good explained. Thanks!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you. You're very welcome!

[@chipcurry]

Very good stuff, thanks for putting it out there!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@69horatioh]

Great tips. I use 35mm on APS-C Fuji.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks.

[@sebastianop.3052]

Great tips to keep always in mind, thanks Peter to do it.

[@lorenschwiderski]

Some good points! Another point to add is that of shutter speed. I begin with, depending on the light and lens, 1/400s and will drop down below that only when needed. This way most everything is frozen perfectly. If there is plenty of light 1/500 or higher is great, as you are ready to capture nearly everything still and moving. When walk against the light, I add a +1/3 to +2/3 for light compensation, and with the light to the back, keep it at 0 - most of the time. Cameras are getting smarter and smarter. I hope I am, but that is debatable. 🤣 The ability to see immediately what will be a good background, is important. That is unless you like the modern way of bokeh on the street. How much to crop at the time depends on total story needed. And yes, at times bokeh or some blur to background is appropriate. Today we see too many sharp images taken of nothing, yet having great bokeh balls. Blah!

[@valdiskrebs566]

>> Today we see too many sharp images taken of nothing, yet having great bokeh balls. 🤣🤣🤣

[@jameshuddle5111]

Hello Peter Nice post some great ideas. About the photo book. I was thinking 5x7 size? Or larger and how many 10-12 or? My more recent street shoot I used a Pen F with a 17mm 1.8. I also have a 12-40 2.8 and would use my Olympus 1.3 . I usually shoot at f4 Thanks again.

[@Spice_and_Sprit_co]

I am a huge olympus fan from India, i use olympus OM-D EM1 with me so nice to use

[@1957PLATO]

Really excellent tips, Peter.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you.

[@k6usy]

When I am walking around I like enabling Quick Sleep, shown as “Eco” mode on the SCP. It allows the camera to sleep if there is a long delay between shots but then the camera wakes up quickly when you half press the shutter button.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Good tip.

[@bakermantube]

Thanks for your tips Peter! It is also like a reminder for me. The tip to have a portfolio is a great one and new for me. I will make one. I use my Olympus 17mm 1.8 lens or the 12-40 2.8 pro lens when I am on the way.

[@RobertVE3VPL]

Thanks, I really like the portfolio idea. Could even be a conversation starter itself.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Absolutely!

[@richardpriestley477]

Great ideas and tips Peter. I tend to use my 17mm Olympus lens for street work and my EM10 MARK 4 as they are smaller and relatively inconspicuous whcich always helps.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you.

[@billjobes1851]

To me, your most important tip is to 'Photograph Alone.' Those are words I strive to live by whether it's on the street or in the wilds.

[@lawrencehorowitz9291]

Excellent! Best points: go out alone, don't be afraid to fail. I have been using the fuji 23f2, 35mm equivalent, for all my street photography. I am considering adding the 35f2, 50mm equivalent, or the 50mmf2, 75mm equivalent. Your thoughts?

[@ForsgardPeter]

For me 75mm (FF) would be too long for street. I would choose the standard lens, 32mm f2.

[@hankroest6836]

I always feel hemmed in if I try to use 25mm for street, while 20mm is just right. Nice video!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you.

[@robertcudlipp3426]

Interesting video thanks Peter. Everyone one differs, however if I intend shooting street type shots, simply use the excellent 17 1.8. Ideal for what I do, others may have different needs.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks.

[@erichstocker8358]

I really like a 35mm on a full frame sensor. So very close to the one that you prefer.

[@georgemohring5348]

Do you have any tips for using manual focus? When I use it I feel lost and don't know which way to turn the dial for example...

[@ForsgardPeter]

Practise is the only thing. Then the direction is easier to memories.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

I don't fail, always I want to learn. Often I make a photograph I lke. I choose a prime lens, 12mm, I think I have 15mm, 17mm, 25mm, or there's that fisheye around 7 mm. Probably I should give the 42.5 mm another go. 60mm I found difficult. These are on Olympus or Panasonic G. I swap between those too. I don't change lenses. If I can't make a shot, I look for another.

[@robertoposa1120]

The new 20 mm (40mm) is perfect for 90% of all shooting I do

[@lorenschwiderski]

Paracord wrist-straps are under $10 and look OK, and work GREAT! Nothing to scratch the camera. If you use your smartphone to alert you before your parking meter is up, it helps. The smartphone can help you find where you parked your car. The smartphone can show others your website, and be a backup camera. I only take the camera with me -- NO bag, so taking a book of photos is out of the question. Smile and shoot away!

[@robynaldridge8304]

I'm a zoomer, Peter. I'll use whatever I have with me so I don't miss an opportunity. At present I'm mainly working on my 12-40mm lens.

[@jameswong9878]

still finding it tough to view blurry images..but great tips! be back for more.

[@ForsgardPeter]

I know but it depends on what feeling you want to tell. I agree that in most cases I prefer sharp images.

[@lamwp8634]

I always shoot alone. I can have full concentration on what I am shooting. Most important of all, nobody is going to distract me.

[@RandomiValotus]

Silloin tällöin tulee kokeiltua "katukuvausta" Olympuksen 45mm f1.8 kanssa. Yleensä tykännyt enempi käytellä tele zoomeja, koska en niin välitä pyöriä ihmisten keskuudessa 😂

[@ep911300]

if i am on A PRIORITY, what happen if i have a very fast moving subject.

[@ForsgardPeter]

It depends on what aperture you are. If you are full open you will get the fastest shutter speed that is available in that particular light. You can use AutoISO if there is not enough light to freeze the action. If you are not using the fastest aperture you can quickly change it.

[@NelsonSerrano]

In the case of my country, it is not such a good idea to go out to take photos just because of crime, in my case when I go out to take street photos I do it with a group that makes excursions to the center and going in a group is safer, and we don't have time to talk because of the rhythm that is going on (either you talk or you take photos)

[@ForsgardPeter]

Good point about the safety issue.

[@ruuddirks5565]

I don't think you need a split-second reaction in street photography. If you're "in the zone" you'll be aware of everything around you and you'll see the "decisive moment" well in advance.

[@ForsgardPeter]

That is also true.

[@peterbudd1803]

17mm f1.8 Primarily for me. i.e. 34mm FF Eqiv.

[@mariemclaughlan5404]

My camera is a cannon.

[@ianbrowne9304]

You and I would be boring pair as we seem to be so much alike ; including a bald head and beard :lol: Not sure I could disagree with any of your tips although I call it Urban Photography with very few people . Certainly no big city photos available here . Like you ; I seldom use the totally horrible words shoot and shot --- photograph a subject to make a picture . I hate those words in photography!! My only urban lens is the Panasonic 20mm ; and perhaps a polarising filter . Even my camera is set very similar to yours F8 , Ap, and as much auto as possible and one click per subject The only couple of tips I could share is "don't try to get every photo you might see" Have and use a basic fixed focal standard length between 35mm - 50mm (ff) . It can be amazing how quickly we can train our mind and eyes to match a simple camera and lens in our hand . Generally the Olympus jpg files will be good enough for me ; but for insurance I also have the raw/dng files . As you have pointed out; good jpg files are easier/faster to edit . Amazingly enough ; today was the first time in a long time I have walked the streets for a few hours --- very happy with the images also . Cheers

[@ForsgardPeter]

Good points. I agree with the tip "don't try to get every photo you might see" .

[@Swaggerlot]

Be a lert, the world needs lerts...