7 Tips On Optimizing Dynamic Range For Olympus OM-D

[@robinwong]

I am doing a series of Optimizing Olympus OM-D camera videos, in case you have not noticed! If you have missed a super important video of me sharing 5 tips on getting the best sharpness out of OM-D cameras, check it out here NOW: kzbin.info/www/bejne/apu0fnxrfbWerMk

[@charleyb4424]

Thanks! I'm excited to watch it!

[@anthonyhor]

My ep3 don’t have HDR mode 😢

[@stevegrooms1142]

Robin, you are unmatched when it comes to explaining things well without repeating yourself. You move briskly to make points without needless (and boring) introductions. Other KZbin presenters should study you as a perfect model for putting out videos that say what they have to say and then say goodbye.

[@robinwong]

You are too kind Steve, thanks! I do my best to ensure my videos are compact and straight to the point.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Good stuff again. The highlight and shadow can also be adjusted to be more precise. LowISO will give you less noise and I use it a lot when shooting still life where I can control the lights. I will lose a bit of dynamic range, but the lighting will take care of the shadows so it is not a problem.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the comment, Peter! Appreciate it.

[@vicibox]

No it has more noise; just because you cant see it doesnt mean it isnt there. The best noise performance is at the base ISO; if you extend ISO down then that is provided to enable better use of shutter speed and the image is compensated by the processing engine. You dont get something for nothing, information is lost in this process. If the result looks good to you then its a good compromise but never imagine that this is not the case. Noise control always starts from dynamic range, the clue is in the reduced range, all they have done is lift the black level to above the noise and you can do that better in post under your own control - winks P.S. This is how I deal with most noise in an image, I lift the black level above the noise level (mostly statistical and thermal noise) because this process doesnt lose information in the rest of the image. Noise processing uses smoothing techniques of course and loses serious amounts of detail ;-)

[@vicibox]

@@jomsies all noise reduction is destructive; it doesn't matter how you do it. Simplicity and technique always gives the best results.

[@vicibox]

@@jomsies Yes it is, its a question of how much destruction you will tolerate; noise reduction is the worst by a mile but any process using algoryths will destroy information. just adjusting brightness or contrast is the least destructive. You have to make the choice but, its better to be informed so you can trade benefits against damage.

[@Mir1189]

Hello. I started to test my M5 Mark III and compared indoor portraits made with my old M10 and M5 III using flash. At first glance i realized that M5 III has slightly higher exposure levels when i tried 45mm/f1.8. The goal was to get soft bokeh so i opened aperture as much as possible and i set ISO 400, later 320. With flash I was locked to 1/60. Now I see that both was bit too much. When I reviewed the images with Highlight and shadow feature, no details were lost but i had to adjust Gamma, Brightness and Contrast in post production. Then I wanted to get a darker photo (a cosplayer), so ISO 320, aperture 22. Apparenlty i underexposed certain parts of the image, but the final effect is what I was looking for. I am quite curious about one thing... Is it possible to use Lightning/shadows warning effectively with Flash?

[@davidwebb091370]

thanks for sharing your knowledge about Olympus OM-D, Robin! you are awesome!

[@robinwong]

My pleasure to share.

[@flyfishnfoto]

Hi Robin, Your channel is a must for OMD users along with Rob Trek and Peter Forsgård. Thanks very much for your hard work.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words, appreciate it!

[@mitchelllorens]

Could not have said it better

[@IamUke]

Great video. One other tip for highlights and shadows is to Expose To The Right (ETTR)-- using the histogram, adjust exposure until the majority of the pixels are as far right as possible without actually clipping the tight side. If any pixels are jammed up against the tight side they are being clipped and information will be lost (the image will show pure white with no detail). This allows the camera to capture as much detail as possible within the shadows, while protecting the highlights. Of course if the scene has too much dynamic range for the camera you can bracket and either do HDR or manually blend the brackets in post.

[@VadimOm]

The more i watch Olympus reviews the more i want this camera Can anyone tell, is there a way to know what camera and lenses will fit my needs if i would consider to switch? Is there a resource where i can get info?

[@ipadista]

I tend to shoot a bit to the right, but I am making sure to not go too far up. It's not like I have made scientific research on the topic, but to me at least it seems that if I expose to around 85-90% pixel saturation, colors really pop and stand out, if expose it brighter, the colors start to become less saturated, and everything starts to drift towards white. So my suggestion would be don't expose all the way to just before you get clipping, stay a bit beneath that level for items you want to have a rich color!

[@robinwong]

Thanks for sharing, useful tip indeed!

[@smkunder1]

Once again you give great advice, especially needed with so many attack’s against M43 quality. I only wish I could get similar results as you.

[@robinwong]

Thanks, and I am sure you can!

[@mvnoeg]

Hello Robin, which editing program are you using in this video? Thanks

[@robinwong]

Capture One Pro

[@2chicos]

I have recently watched several of your “tips” videos and they are all very useful and helpful. Thank you.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for watching and appreciate the kind comments! Go out and shoot more please!

[@CheikoSairin]

Wow, I really satisfied with the tips you gave in this video. Very detail explanation. Big thumbs up, great work, Robin. Greeting from Singapore.

[@robinwong]

Thanks, glad you found the tips useful!

[@fthprodphoto-video5357]

Great channel and explanations ! To all the full frame preachers : just try an m43 camera combined with stellar optics such as the Olympus pro 2.8 and 1.2 line or pana-leica lenses : you will change your mind

[@robinwong]

Well said!

[@TheSquishySnail]

More great tips. I need to watch this a few more times to make sure I am using all the tips. Hehe. In a field where everyone is trying to find the best of the best... I love that your videos are all about showing how to get great photos with what you have. I especially love your kit lens video. Too many people toss it aside for what they deem a better lens, but their photography skills still need work. *coughmecough* Your videos really teach so much without superfluous chatter.

[@robinwong]

Thanks so much for the kind words! I do my best whenever I can! Go out and shoot more!

[@andrewjenks6824]

The second video of Robin I'm watching. I just love how upbeat, joyful, and enthusiastic he is.

[@norbertvieilleslames6462]

Hello Robin I discovered your channel not long ago! Thank you, thank you very much for your tips with omd cameras! I'm French and I don't speak so much English, so I'm progressing in photography and English with you!

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words, and please go out and shoot more!

[@totalstranger8412]

I dumped my Nikon 7000 with many lenses. I now have the OMD Mark lll with prime lenses. All the other OMD videos were getting old. You’re the new kid on the block. Thanks for the new prospective. Liking you #505

[@robinwong]

Thanks fo r the kind words, getting prime lenses is the right way to go! So small and light yet delivering fantastic results.

[@dai9775]

Hi sir, i am newbie, just buy an OMD Em5mark3. I am finding lens with good Micro Contrast, have some characters as Leica/Zeiss. Can you suggest some lens?

[@MikeC2K10]

My Fn2 button did not activate Shadow & Highlight control (on my E-M5 Mk II it is called Color Creator). In order to get Fn2 to bring up Highlight & Shadow, the Multi Function must be configured to show it, and then Multi Function is assigned to Fn2. Multi Function Settings are under the Gear -> D menu. I like this a lot. 👍

[@anbunarashiman8725]

Hi Robin wong sir I am a wedding Photographer in India,Which camera is Better for wedding Purpose of Om-D Series sir.. 15year back I was Using Olympus OM_2000 Camera It quality was Amazing But Now i am using Nikon D750. i am willing to be back on Olympus, Plz say the mid Range or higher

[@hnahler]

Thank you for clarifying the L64 and L100 settings in comparison to ISO 200. - I will make sure to stay away from these low ISO settings.

[@robinwong]

Glad I could help!

[@kattwomin]

Hi Robin. Thanks for your great videos, they are a joy to watch . I just want to ask what software editing program was shown in this video please. Cheers.

[@4suc6]

Robin , what editor do you here? Dr has two sides. Lower iso preserves shadows but crashes the skies. On fuji you can actually get 2 extra stops by built in dr analog processing. Pitty olympus missed that. But hey, we have inbody hdr stacking and a little flash. I would use it on the foto you show. A tip for you.

[@KennyChas47]

Hi Robin, I have a question. Have you done a video on Multiple exposures and can you show us how to set up (Example) C1 on an E-M1 MarkII for the recording of a video and C2 for recording Procapture L in order to follow a subject (Or have you already done this in one of your great videos). You convinced me to purchase the E-M1 MarkII (3.)0) and I thank you for it. Thanks in advance.

[@grahamreader9141]

Thanks Robin, I had not realized that HDR was jpeg only and not RAW, I wondered why I had some jpeg images in my first excursion with the camera. Yes I only shoot Raw. GrahamR

[@mikejenner5610]

Robin in your tip #1 regarding ISO, you state that ISO64 is not real and should not really be used but in your video where you reviewed the OM-D E-M1 mk3 sone of your example images were shot at ISO64. Why was this? Thank you. Regards

[@eamonnthatcher]

Hi I have a Olympus OM-D E-M10 !!! I've noticed my menu is different than yours ,does camera need software updates if software is 1.2 for camera and lens ,you tell me if that's why it's please

[@ssthapit]

Just noticed that you are using Capture One Pro. Just switched to it myself. Thanks for the tips. I recently added OMD EM10 II to my full frame camera and I have been finding the OMD harder to use during sunny days. I will use your tips.

[@diybatterypower]

Hi Robin, thank you for all the helpful videos. What editing program are you using in Tip #2?

[@PuchoWebSolutions]

Hello from New York City! Which image editing software are you using to fix the image at timecode: 04:21 ? Thankyou for informative video.

[@richerich8007]

I shoot 99.9% of all my photos outside and for me with either the M1X or the E-M1 MK2 I shoot most everything +1 E. V. to get the histogram to the right, but having the highlights and shadows turned on keeps me from under or over exposing my photos, as per usual great video Robin!

[@robinwong]

I think you are talking about ETTR! Very good tip to, especially for better detail capture in darker/shadow region! Thanks for sharing.

[@richerich8007]

@@robinwong Yes I was talking about ETTR, thanks.

[@tangmerah6775]

@@robinwong sorry, what is ETTR robin ?

[@robinwong]

@@tangmerah6775 expose to the right

[@tangmerah6775]

@@robinwong thanks

[@loco46m]

Hi Robin, maybe you can do an update on this video since you have the OM1, or maybe even how to optimize the dynamic ranger in older cameras. Keep shooting!

[@rentedtux1883]

Robin, my lines don't go back to flat when I press and hold the button. I'm using the em5. Am I doing something wrong?

[@gcprost]

Thanks for doing this. Are any of these techniques excluded when shooting video?

[@hnahler]

Robin, it is great that you give these tips for us to get the best dynamic range out of our cameras. It is likely that most of us are doing this already. A Nikon D850, Canon EOS R5 have 14.8 and 14.6 stops dyn. range respectively. There is no sensor test of the E-M1 III and E-M1X on dxomoark. The E-M1 II has 12.8 stops which is 2 stops less than the other two professional grade cameras. That is huge and shows again that OMD Solutions needs a new sensor for dynamic range much more than for number of pixels.

[@davidnixon5651]

Thanks Robin. I think ill need to work through these tips while watching your video again...and again.

[@robinwong]

No worries, glad I could help!

[@owenauer3406]

Sorry, I didn't watch the video because I wanted 8 tips. LOL

[@pobreprofe]

Thanks for the video, I am trying to use some of the setups but gradation can not be used with HDR mode right?

[@jeicobsi]

Thanks for this videos Robin, really appreciated! I'm in now.

[@BatuHijau]

Thanks again for a great informative video. What post camera software do you use please.

[@maido2945]

Hi Robin, thank you for all your useful tips I love your videos. I’m a novice photographer and I’d like to know if is it better to over or under expose a photograph? Thanks!

[@BatuHijau]

Robin, is there any chance that you could share some advice on shooting bright coloured lights at night? This will be a great help.

[@youngboon1]

LETS LL SELL OUR DSLR. USLESS.... 600d cannon hahahaha good for nothing ERa

[@MDMiller60]

Hi Robin. Hey, what software do you show here? Thanks.

[@fernandevaudan7774]

Know I understand what represente this ISO below 200, you are really my OMD teacher. Thanks

[@leckywoznicki5393]

Thank you for all your great work. Tried to buy you a coffee but it's not working :(

[@lichtloper]

excellent suggestions, robin! thankyou

[@bamberk]

Hervorragend. Sehr enthusiastisch vorgetragen, das mag ich. Die Begeisterung springt über. Die Informationen sind sehr wertvoll. Ich habe ein Karabach gelesen. Das war OK. Jetzt sehe ich diese Videos. Die ersetzen ein Buch, das heißt, die sind besser, als ein Buch z lesen. Darum überweise ich auch gerne auf PayPal den Betrag, den ich für ein Buch ausgegeben hätte.

[@davidmari7433]

Hi Robin , what is the software that your run for processing raw files ?

[@giomarcos4438]

Useful tips, thank you Robin. BTW I use omd em5 mark i. What is the best and economical (I prefer free 😁) program to edit raw file for olympus? I saw your editing program looks good.

[@robinwong]

I am using Capture One Pro. It is definitely NOT economical.

[@giomarcos4438]

@@robinwong ok thanks Robin 👍

[@pj1074]

Try Affinity Photo. It's not free but not expensive as well and you pay only once. They have trial version so you can check if it works for you.

[@solehinmansiz4216]

Hi robin,what apps u use for post processing?

[@TuanAnhTraninh]

What photo editing software are you using?

[@yvainbenoit1010]

One more very useful video. Thanks a lot

[@AnastasTarpanov]

Robin, you're the master of the dynamic range, cheers! :)

[@robinwong]

Thanks! Appreciate the kind words.

[@DXVXD]

Very usefull videos for me as a beginner photograher who starts out with the em10 m2! Right now i am shooting with the omympus 45mm 1.8 and the 17mm 1.8 Also enjoy your way of explaining 🤘

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words. Those two exact lenses you have were used to film all the videos in this channel.

[@Carlounderscore]

I used your cheat sheet and i love it!

[@extremelydave]

Sir, if you are not employed by Olympus, you should be! Everything here is great info to know to make your photos the best they can be. THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge!!!!!!

[@robinwong]

I was employed by them several years ago. I left.

[@KiroLoh1218]

Useful tips and detail explanation ! Appreciated your hard works. 👍

[@robinwong]

Cheers!

[@geuskoeman721]

Thanks very useful Robin

[@stephankurda7397]

Great tips again. Do you know any other camera with highlight AND shadow control?

[@bobfitzy6236]

Yes, most Panasonics, including FZ330 Bridge cameras

[@RichardsModellingAdventures]

I’v shot loads of makes of camera and find the omd cameras fine on DR. It’s better than a lot of canons or at least as good as for sure

[@vicibox]

Great video. Dynamic range is always a serious topic with me. Sorry, I use a Panasonic GX9 but hey, I have Olympus primes and a TG-3 so not a complete lost cause. People forget that (I am being kind here, they dont know at all) that the dynamic range of the human eye is 10stops; yes it can accommodate 40 stops but only after a long period of adjustment. At any moment in time the range is 10 stops. Therefore every camera on the market has sufficient dynamic range if you set the exposure correctly. We dont see detail in shadow; shadows appear black in normal vision. The only photographer I know who uses dynamic range effectively is Valerie Jardin and her street photos are stunning; dont bring out shadow detail, lift the black level for dramatic street shots. To my eye HDR looks ghastly; like a 1950s colour postcard so I avoid it like the plague. So larger sensors have more dynamic range do they? I dont think so. I have been using a Sony A7 for the last couple of weeks with a 50mm f1.8 lens. Well even at f8 my backgrounds are out of focus making the images useless; with my 25mm f1.7 I can shoot virtually wide open and get plenty of depth of field to use for complex scenes; if the world you inhabit is 1cm deep then a full frame camera is ideal for you but for me its useless as I take hyperfocal ultra realistic panaramic street shots and will stick with MFT. Myself i shoot at ISO400 for no other reason than I have been shooting ISO400 film since the 1960s and this setting is fine on all my cameras. Have fun ;-)

[@robinwong]

I guess it all comes down to what the photographer is trying to achieve, and also what you shoot. For landscape photographers, they treasure the ability to shoot as much details as they can from the extremes, and the presentation is usually beyond reality. Sometimes, the magic of photography is to reveal what human eyes cannot see, or have trouble seeing. I can give another example - insect macro photography. Some of the insects are so tiny, yet with proper macro shooting techniques we can magnify them to almost a full screen size!

[@carlwheeler2774]

I have been shooting Olympus professionally since 2005 and have never been asked by a client regarding dynamic range of my images. But they do love the look of the images. Have been shooting RAW files since before the OM-D and find this to be superior in many ways especially dynamic range. You are correct in all your tips and I will have to try some of the last three regarding jpg images. Great stuff Robin, thank you.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for sharing your experience Carl, and yes, same here, I have been shooting for many years and never heard a complain from clients too!

[@stefanhermansen8975]

What about Adobe RGB vs SRGB?

[@Adothedream]

I m now your 19000 subscriber, bye

[@AllIsWellaus]

I was curious about what software you were using. I'm currently using the free software, Olympus Workspace as my version of Photoshop (CS6) doesn't recognise the ORF extension.

[@robinwong]

Capture One Pro

[@Flyinginthebluedream]

@@robinwong I install Capture One Pro into my Windows 10 but facing constant crashing .

[@robinwong]

@@Flyinginthebluedream kindly report to Capture One Pro support team? I'm sure they can help you.

[@Flyinginthebluedream]

@@robinwong I have unistall it . Actually same thing happened when I used other editing software .

[@renatoreyes1969]

Hi Robin, thank you for your high quality information on the Olympus topics. Very much appreciated. Quick question. Which program did you use when you were editing the RAW formats?

[@ronym]

Robin thanks for sharing your knowledge. Love your channel, I’m always tuning in. Don’t know if you noticed a constant shift in white balance in this video, or is ti me? 🙃🙃 Once again thanks, I’ve learned so much watching your videos.

[@tobykelsey4459]

How does HDR differ from exposure bracketing? You should also mention using graduated filters, which has advantages over digital processing.

[@TheJacobs150]

Thank you for sharing your knowladge about Olympus cameras :) If I may ask, what software are you using for post production?

[@RestorationAustralia]

Just subbed I love your content, can I ask you something? As a photographer have you heard of the Justin clamp? Please let me know.

[@donalone]

Thanks Robin. I noticed that my PenF dynamic range is limited after I shot and compare with full-frame in store and compare. I have been using this camera for 7 years but I noticed that some of the features I have forgotten. As I mainly take photos for kids, I don’t have the time to tweak the settings so I gradually just take pictures without looking at the settings. I will remember these tips next time I shoot the landscape pictures.

[@edgarsteele]

Awesome video, thanks Robin! Along with the tip on using live view highlight & shadow clip warning, for me it’s also very helpful to disable the live view boost, unless I’m shooting with flash or in studio. Live view boost enabled does not give accurate image of exposure

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@charleyb4424]

I use 5 shot bracketing in 0.3EV increments to help get best possible exposure for architectural and landscape photos (outdoors, no tripod). This method has been working well for me. I'm wondering if I can combine Exposure Bracketing method with also using Highlight/Shadow Control, or HDR1, or Gradation Auto ? Thanks to you, I now know to use ISO 200 instead of 100.

[@miroslawguzik6116]

I m from Poland.i m using olympus and i m watching your videos. Good work. thank you.Mirek

[@HudsonGao]

Does HDR results in lower quality images? I always get horrible photos on my EM5 Mark II so I never use this function. Is it just me?

[@techstat]

Thanks for your valuable tips. I am having both EM1MII and EM1X. Please tell me which software you use for processing.

[@robinwong]

Thanks, glad you found the tips useful. I used Capture One Pro.

[@techstat]

@@robinwong Thank you

[@christinecoughlan4699]

Thank you Robin🌺👍🏼

[@knutSchevik]

very useful thank you

[@TheDiverat]

Thanks for another great vid Robin. It’s like having your own personal photography coach for your camera.

[@kkam7044]

Hi Robin, appreciate the videos you make for us Olympus shooters, they are most helpful. After watching this video I tried to adjust my highlight and shadow warning in camera but the selection box is greyed out for some reason, my guess is a mode issue? Any help would be much appreciated

[@koos48]

This is one of the most inspiring posts you have ever done, my Friend!

[@MarkMphonoman]

Good morning, please tell me what software program you are using to process the images for this video? Thanks, Mark

[@robinwong]

Capture One Pro

[@MarkMphonoman]

Thank you for the information. Mark

[@mevarsamqaro]

Hello Robin. Thanks for your guide. I have some questions, may be you will help me. I have em5 mII. Why if I setup settings as in tip number 4(show highlights and shadows) and if the exposure is too dark (the photo will as black square of Malevich) in ev and lv the "blue" is only in places where can be a shadow when the exposure is normal?

[@mevarsamqaro]

And why if I change the settings of exposure (like iso) I can see only difference in histogram,but the view in ev and lv is not changing?

[@mevarsamqaro]

Incredible, but I found the solution. I will write tomorrow,how it sounds. I can't understand why Olympus needs so many configurations at the first start.

[@mevarsamqaro]

in e-m5 mark II you need to press menu, then choose gears, and chose in section D settings of LV increasing. Here in Manual shooting you have to set up OFF. Now the effect of compenstion of exposure will not be shown in LV and EV. The prewiev will change when you will change your exposure/в e-m5 mark II вам нужно нажать меню, затем выбрать шестерни и выбрать в разделе D настройки увеличения LV. Здесь, при ручной съемке, вы должны установить OFF. Теперь эффект компенсации экспозиции не будет отображаться в LV и EV. Предварительный просмотр изменится, когда вы измените экспозицию.

[@evgueniloktionoff]

Wery useful, thnx!

[@Impostertot]

Awesome tips Robin, really enjoying this series and all your channel content! Thanks so much.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@Eti1968]

Rob in, you do make Great video’s. As for dynamic range I’m more than pleased with the em1 m2. I never use hd3 1 or hdr 2 I usualy take the 5 or 7 shots. As you mentioned the gradient tools in Lightroom help a lot on the raw file to bring up shadows or bring down highlights in parts of the picture.

[@robinwong]

Thanks! Glad that the E-M1 Mark II is working out fine for you!

[@justmythought7658]

I really wished there would be an option to create a HDR with both versions the same time, because as you said, sometimes 1 looks better, sometimes 2. Edit: Sorry, had to change the commentary. You are perfectly right, HDR only creates JPGs. My mistake.

[@Clayh1007]

Robin, I really like your tips and other videos. I've learned a lot from them and I'm getting more out of my Mark II. Thanks for the hard work I really appreciate it!

[@robinwong]

Thanks Clayton, glad that you like the videos! Shall do my best to make more.

[@aaronperkinson8314]

Thanks Robin. Just got my used E-M5 Mark II yesterday...I love it. And your videos are so very helpful!

[@robertcudlipp3832]

Assuming that you actually have an OMD, as compared with say a Pen F, if more than one of these adjustments is effectively made a permanent setting, what is the potential for them to effectively conflict and lead to a compromised exposure? I appreciate this question displays my lack of any real mastery of the Olympus system- have only had a Pen F for a short time🙈🙈

[@davethebarber3130]

Perhaps a bit late for a comment, but… I always learn something from all your vids, Robin, and the tips make it possible for me to extract the maximum amount of usability from my OM-D eM5 iii. I also like when I see you do post-processing using Olympus Workspace. That has helped me a lot too. Thanks, and Stay Healthy. -Dave

[@Havanai]

Are you showing your post-processing in Olympus' WorkSpace?

[@יונתןנחום-כ5ע]

Love your videos Robin! Very helpful and I learn a lot from them! Thank you!!

[@robinwong]

Thanks! Glad I could help.

[@straycat1551]

I bought a book especially for my OM D EM 1 MK II, but I found the really good tips here. I think I can apply most of them to the PEN-F as well. Thank you very much for sharing your extensive practical experience.

[@arvidsanto1581]

Very nice! Thanks

[@macwallys1552]

These menu settings are different at the E-M1 Mark III Can you update this video for the E-M1 Mark III

[@PedroDVC]

The more I know about Olympus the more amazed I get and happy with my switch...

[@SuperRaven79]

Hi Robin, thanks again for a great video. Im not sure if i understand one thing right. Is it recommendable to use "Auto" gradiation AND "Highlight/Shadow" settings for Jpeg together or is it better to use only one of them at the same time. Maybe these two settings interfere with each other? Thanks!

[@jerryhughes4720]

Hi-res images: I have a perception but it is maybe not real that Hi-Res shots have a greater dynamic range. Is this correct? Great video as usual thanks Robin

[@robinwong]

Thanks Jerry. Shooting in High Res Mode does improve the dynamic range, but not by a huge margin. It records more pixels (4x more) so we can recover more shadow and highlight regions.