7018 vs 6013 / Which rod should I use for my projects?

[@bojack2740]

I experienced the complete opposite. 6013 is the easiest to start and to maintain. Welds are prettier. The only bad side is less pentrative power

[@thomasbartlett6771]

I'm with Bojack. For fixing broken exhaust pipes on cars, the 6013/ 3/32" was easier to use than the 7018 3/32"which was constantly sticking and needed constant filing to restart. The 6013 @ 70 Amps DCEN worked best for repairing automobile exhaust pipes. Great video and thanks for posting

[@tandemwings4733]

Correct. For light (thin) elements such as auto exhaust tubing, 6012 or 6013 DCEN is THE correct procedure. 7018 is NOT suitable for that work.

[@thomasbartlett6771]

@@tandemwings4733 Thanks!!

[@RanjitSingh-dl1wi]

7018 backbone of structure

[@tomt9543]

DCEP is the standard for 7018 and pretty much any stick electrode! The exception being 6013, 6010 & 6011 when welding thin steel, are frequently used with DCEN because of a reduced possibility of burn through or blow out! The vast majority of AWS SMAW WPS’s don’t permit 7018 polarity to be anything but DCEP because of reduced penetration on electrode negative polarity. 7018 is the “go to” rod in industry, but they aren’t always a good choice for a small shop that doesn’t weld frequently. Their biggest limitation being that upon the original opening of a new can of electrodes, all of the rods are supposed to be kept in a 250 degree oven until used. Failure to do so will result in the electrode losing its “low hydrogen “ qualities, and greatly reduced weld strength. 6010, 6011, 6013 & 7014’s, on the other hand, don’t have to be kept heated to maintain their integrity. Just some points to ponder in the great stick choice game!

[@vigilantobserver8389]

7018 can't just be removed from a sealed container and used straight away? Could I put the 7018 rods in my oven for an hour, prior to use?

[@tomt9543]

@@vigilantobserver8389 The manufacturers as well as AWS rules specify that after a sealed container is opened the first time, they are ok to use for something like either 4 or 8 hours, after which time they have to be kept in a rod oven @ 250 degrees. If they’ve been out for many hours or days, or “exposed to moisture “, as I believe the rule states, they have to be rebaked at 500+ degrees for many hours, and that can only be done one time! Normal procedure where 50lb. boxes are used is to open a new box and put them straight in a 250 degree stabilizing oven, keeping out only what you’re immediately going to use in 4 hours. This is also a reason why the round, 10lb. or smaller cans of rod have become so popular. There’s lots of good info out there from AWS, Lincoln Electric, Hobart, ESAB and others about this.

[@AS-ug2vq]

Just put them in cheap toaster oven

[@ChiNguyen-wf1qt]

@@vigilantobserver8389 if you do code work 7018 need to be baked in the oven other than that they can be used right out of the box

[@zorinho20]

I made steel construction for balcony roof and used 6013 and 7018 electrodes from the same manufacturer. It is recommended to run 7018 on positive and 6013 on negative (I ran on positive,because was lazy to change and steel was 2 mm). 7018 has much prettier weld and almost non-existent slag,but is very hard to reignite. 6013 has much thicker slag,but is very easy to reignite. Electrodes were 2,5 mm and I ran on 70-75 amps.

[@Sahtzor]

7018 will reignite just fine if you remove a bit of the slag/shielding on the tip of the stick

[@tonymontana4349]

7018 is Nimber one lol love the way that rod looks after the weld

[@reloadnorth7722]

I use 6013 with a 50 year old Lincoln 225 welder. I never have the spatter you do and the slag falls off by itself most times. I don't need the tensile strength of 7018 rods. Good video. Stay safe.

[@hlq2action310]

Maybe he was running too hot? (too much amp?)

[@urgonbicol2024]

Yes 7018 is good welding rod. But 6013 is good for me because I use ebreday for my job . 6013 slow moving and easy to clean the slag .. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@AXNJXN1]

Interesting vid I digress. I really thought the 6013 was the way to go, but now, I'm thinking about trying the 7013 out from viewing your results. Appreciate you keeping the video simple; thank you.

[@FerrousPhoenix]

Glad I could help!

[@AS-ug2vq]

All farmers and home owners in uk and US use 6013. Unless doing structural steel work, 7018 is not worth the trouble of setting up a dedicated rod oven

[@tandemwings4733]

@@AS-ug2vq Correct. Also in Australia. I buy 6012 at 200kg at a time.

[@slayorphine.]

Good video, however as far as i know and i use the 6013 has a slag that s super easy to clean almost with a touch it lifts up immediately. Maybe a little lower amp will work better especially with the thinner ones.

[@FerrousPhoenix]

Interesting, I didn't think the amperage would have much to do with the slag. But your probably right, I was using a pretty high amperage for what I was doing with 6013. I might see if lower amps has an effect on it.

[@Pereke69]

@@FerrousPhoenix probably had the rod a little wet too

[@FerrousPhoenix]

@@Pereke69 your right, I don't have any ovens to store my electrodes in. They are all stored in a building that doesn't have good insulation and heating, so they are all to wet.

[@robertlaskey8509]

Good demo. Im doing some repairs on a sea wall on a lake tomorrow. I am a welder fabricator. Mostly I mig and tig but im decent w arc as well. With a very good old Lincoln Kohler welder generator. Ill bake both kinds of rods for a while in the oven. On site, I`ll, clean it all up and put some beads on it. Im sure it will be good bandaids for a n old sea wall that needs to be replaced.

[@draytonkk]

From my experience welding while working with chain link fences (gates and a few custom order weld jobs was what i was welding which is mostly mild steel only, 6013 3/8 rods worked best on that while 7013 was for the odd harder steels we occasionally worked with, 7013 blew threw ss15 pipe like butter too

[@luciusirving5926]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that ESAB's version of 6013 has iron powder in its titania flux. The welds also look prettier via ESAB. Easy peasy cleaning also. Sometimes, it's the best alternative to 7018 AC if you can't get one.

[@ralphbarnes2994]

thanks i agree 7018 is my go to rod. smile

[@garypostell5268]

Note there is a AC version of the 7018

[@dennisyoung4631]

Which is recommended for “wimpy” welders, as it has a lower Open Circuit Voltage requirement needed to run OK. It works fine on DCEP, which is the only way I have run it in the past.

[@luciusirving5926]

@@dennisyoung4631 Good luck fighting arc blow with a DC rod. 7018 AC does a better job on magnetized steel.

[@AutodidactEngineer]

My 120€ chinese Kzuber "400A" welder melts 4mm 6013 electrodes like butter! It trips my 240v 35A breaker constantly 😂

[@robertlaw8510]

A better comparison would be to use both rods at the mid point of their amperage range. I.E. 6013, 60 amps 7018, about 105 amps

[@FerrousPhoenix]

That's a good idea. I kept the amps the same to give myself another controlled variable, other than just the thickness of the rod and material.

[@robertlaw8510]

@@FerrousPhoenix The problem is welding at the top of a range for one and the lowest of a range for the other is apples vs. oranges. It is not a controlled variable it is out of control.

[@atubeviewer4942]

To bad you didnt run AC beads too

[@rodneyfox5566]

All the problems in your welds is not following limits on manufacture set parameters for thos rods. What you have is user error

[@joejohnson4137]

Everyone has their opinion, but for me, 7014 is the best all around rod. Easy starting, but some weld spatter. Thanks for the video.

[@billymoore4788]

On the farm we call that a farm rod hahah. Doesn’t matter what your working in it’ll still strike an arc

[@chasg5648]

Run some rod of whatever type at varying amperages to get good settings - good for your machine and good for how you weld - before doing any comparative tests. Then, note that 7018 and 6013 are very different rods for very different jobs. Each will be best for its purpose. They should not be treated as comperable.

[@angelaprater2679]

First the 6013 AC are AC alternating current and the 7018 one metal cold and the rod as well which should heated at 300 degrees kennel oven to help the welding rod start.

[@eriktorp-olsen1706]

I'm using 6013 DCEP, starts easily and I get very little spatter. I find 7018 a nightmare to start and to control.

[@dostuffchannel]

Good demo. Thanks!

[@angelaprater2679]

Apple's and oranges 7018 for metal as like hevy farm equipment 6013 for mild steel also the flux on 7018 runs cleaner and is different. As to the 6013 flux splatter more like a 6011 6010. You can 6013 run vertical try running 7018 vertical.

[@tandemwings4733]

I disagree totally, with your initial statement. I ONLY use 6013 on ag work, anything from 2mm up to 25mm thick. 7018 is a pain in the arse for restriking.

[@carof08]

7018 is a low hydrogen rod with amazing properties can weld hard to weld steels you wont see any other rods on code welds because of it being low hydrogen very ductile

[@markbroad119]

7014 for the win 110/120v welder your better off with 3/32 rods 6011 for deep penitration

[@claytammaro7060]

Forget the 6013 and use 6011 on everyday welding, if welding pipe use 6010 5p+ run it down hand.

[@rodneyfox5566]

My opinion would be they are both suitable for most task but excel in certain areas 6013 makes overhead a breeze while 7018 is required for anything required nuclear/heat-treat the quality of the weldment determined by the weldor/he or she 60/70 tho tsi is hardly noticeable by your doityourselfer

[@michaeljtoney3544]

too hot on 6013 look at the splatter

[@dennisyoung4631]

Also, that’s the Hobart flavor, which is reputed to be closer to what’s called a *Rutile-Cellulose* rod. It tends to act like a mix of 6013 and 6011 - more penetration, *and* more spatter. I have bought some for welding *practice* - I need to practice stick a lot more.

[@paulnicholson1906]

The only thing with 7018 is that you have to tap or file the end of a partially used rod because the flux tends to stop the end of the electrode restriking easily.

[@conner3542]

No you don't, just flick off the cherry right after you lift your arc. If you're too late, take it out of your stinger and push and twist lightly on a hard surface.

[@paulnicholson1906]

@@conner3542 ok. That might work too but taking it out of the stinger and twisting is doing the same thing as tapping or filing? Anyway will have to Ryan what you say.

[@paulnicholson1906]

Try not Ryan…..

[@conner3542]

@@paulnicholson1906 if you tap it you're going to potentially break off too much flux, making restarts hideous and full of inclusions, and filing takes way longer than taking the rod out of the whip for 2 seconds. Get good at flicking the cherry and you'll never have to worry about it. Just my 2 cents, I've been welding structural steal field and shop for a long time and this is what works for me and many others in my field.

[@paulnicholson1906]

@@conner3542 thanks for the info. I learned something. I’m certainly not a pro. So your 2 cents worth more than mine…..

[@majidshafizadeh9316]

6013 need more manipulation for better results opposed of 7018

[@darzo7527]

Your 6013 runs look like Flux core..?? so much spatter, maybe 🤔 quality of the welding rod brand..?? I use regular Lincoln 6013 available at my local home depot and it never leaves spatter like that. Thanks for the video

[@conner3542]

His amperage is way too high. Dial that down to the correct heat and it eliminates 90% of the spatter, same as any other flux involved process.

[@dennisgray7509]

6013 is the easiest rod in the world to use! You need some lessons!

[@2035jim]

He just had the amperage too high for a 3/32 rod you gotta run 60 not 80

[@randomschittz9461]

Let me know when you want to go to white castle.

[@vieuxacadian9455]

6013 are so smooth . 7018 are stronger . 6011 dig deeper but are a rough bead .

[@spartin1997]

Looks like you ran that 6013 a little hot. You shouldn't have that much spatter.

[@T3glider]

No one else seems to have caught this but you handicapped the 6013 by running them both at 80 amps. You would have had better runs on the 6013 at a lower amperage and less spatter as a result.

[@SwampmasterZ]

6010

[@davidarman981]

Dude, you used 80 amps on the rods that recommend 40-60 amps. It's was OBVIOUSLY burning WAY too hot for the 6013s. Which also makes the slag much harder to chip off. You can't be serious with this video...

[@terryjobity43]

I've never seen 6013 do what yours was doing, never, 7018 does that, with lots of bbs, I feel you mistake the rods

[@TozziWelding]

Throw the 6013 right in the trash, if you cant run 7018 go with 7014.

[@tandemwings4733]

That's a load of crap. Why do you NEED a higher tensile stick, which is also a pain in the neck to restrike?

[@luciusirving5926]

The solution to restrikes? Get a better welder. ESAB and Hobart make the best 6013s. ESABs are easy cleaning and Hobarts penetrate more.

[@luke-bookbear]

6013 is art stuff (like maybe a decorative security door) or other stuff that isn't going to kill someone if it breaks or cause serious problems (loss of money, time, etc). You wouldn't use 6013 for anything serious unless maybe you live somewhere in the developing world where all they have available is 6103 and everything made there is flimsy anyway. If you're in the US or anywhere in the developed world there's no need to touch 6013 unless you're more of an artist and you're working on something that wont cause harm if it breaks.

[@sikolikhole]

Oldish video by now, but you're holding too far of an arc.