5 EXPENSIVE Woodworking Tools Beginners DON’T NEED!

[@731Woodworks]

Sign up for KZbin Premium with my link to get 2 months free kzbin.info?cc=731woodworks& Click "Read more" to see all of the tool links. Watch Next: 99% of Beginners Don't Know These Woodworking Tips and Tricks - kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIndhGBta9mta68si=Pk1ec4_CxATrMWSd Tools in this Video: Swanson Speed Square - amzn.to/3Yo0gMs Swanson Speed Square (7 and 12 inch combo pack) - amzn.to/3UtkEL1 Framing Square Fence - lddy.no/1kpsm Framing Square - amzn.to/48sm7qT Circular Saw - amzn.to/3NQjJQV Diablo Circular Saw Blade - amzn.to/4emj84F Stanley 48-inch I-Beam Level - amzn.to/40q3MbM Craftsman 48-inch I-Beam Level - amzn.to/4eTkCEp Dovetail Router Bit - amzn.to/4hDe3Yz Dovetail Clamps 2-Pack - amzn.to/4hA576a BOW Featherboard - amzn.to/4hmrM5H Swanson Straight Edge - amzn.to/4ebVgQN Kreg Rip Cut (Amazon) amzn.to/3YjAYPA Kreg Rip Cut (Lowe's) creatoriq.cc/4hlP7o9 Milescraft Track Saw Guide - amzn.to/3YKH9N1 Milescraft Portable Drill Guide - amzn.to/3YJXPp3 RZ Mask M2 - amzn.to/3NGXuNx Craftsman Shop Vac - amzn.to/4hlXujB DeWALT StealthSonic Shop Vacs - creatoriq.cc/3Usy5e1 Dust Right Separator - amzn.to/3C3Fp9O Mullet Dust Separator - amzn.to/3YGl0QX Festool MFT Work Bench - amzn.to/3C2S64J Festool Clamps for Workbench - amzn.to/4fmZciH Kreg Router Template - amzn.to/3UtK634 Alumnium Router Templates - amzn.to/3Yo2jjC Router Bit Set I Recommed - amzn.to/3YGfMVc Router Templates - craftedelements.com/collections/router-templates Beginner Woodworking Project Plan Bundle - www.731woodworks.com/store/p/ultimate-beginner-woodworker-plan-bundle use code BEGIN to save 20% off this bundle. Hardwood Charcuterie Kits FREE SHIPPING www.ollogginsawmill.com/collections/wood-kits Best Budget Power Tool Options I Recommend: SKIL Miter Saw (Amazon) - amzn.to/3Aq7OGs SKIL Miter Saw (Lowe's) creatoriq.cc/4f3zYWQ SKIL Table Saw (Amazon) - amzn.to/3NJ7EwZ SKIL Table Saw (Lowe's) - creatoriq.cc/3A7OrC9 Kobalt Table Saw - creatoriq.cc/3YwOmAa Kreg Track Saw - amzn.to/4eYG9LS WEN Drill Press - amzn.to/4fjTApu Hercules Dust Extractor - SKIL Router and Router Table Combo - amzn.to/3YjCz82 Hardwood Board Kits - www.ollogginsawmill.com/collections/wood-kits Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks Join the TUBAFOUR NATION to get exclusive access to member only behind the scenes videos, member only livestreams, exclusive discounts, and other cool member only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks See the full list of tools and supplies I recommend on my website: www.731woodworks.com/recommended-tools Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter to get new content alerts, sales, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Easy to Follow Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter

[@BroRiv]

Buy the best, safest product you can afford, especially the ones that can remove your digits...I love ALL of mine.

[@a9ball1]

This was a good video. I've been using plug-in portable power tools since about 1968. And my first use of big power tools like a table saw, bandsaw and etc was 1974. My most used tools that don't use any power are, #1 the Swanson speed square. That brand is made of metal and almost indestructible. You can drop it, kick it and all kinds of abuse and because of how it's made it doesn't get out of square. Like he showed it is really great for crosscutting 1x and 2x. #2 24 inch steel framing square. Steel because of the durability. And 24" because it's just so useful. #3 is up to you but you need a good writing pencil. The thinner lead the better but the trade-off is how easy the lead breaks. Myself, I buy a big bag of the plastic 0.7 mechanical pencils that are on sale really cheap during back to school sales. I got 50 for just under $7 and each one has 3 sets of extra lead in them. Added bonus is they are bright colors which makes them a tad bit easier to find when they are laying around. I just throw them away when they run out. And here's my bonus tip. When you first start out and you make things that are either a gift or sale to a friend or family member don't point out your mistakes. Believe me, they usually don't notice them until you show them. Don't say things like "does this uneven seem bother you much?", or stuff like that. They don't notice it. Have fun and don't worry about making mistakes. That's how we learn.

[@yihuandong1450]

The bonus tip is gold. As a perfectionist, a lot of the mistakes bother me but other people either don't notice them or just don't care. I need to put this tip to practice. Thanks for sharing!!

[@joelnowland2196]

Great Information: 35 years ago, when was first starting out I won the top award at the Southern California Design In Wood Show and all I had was a Craftsman 10" flex drive table saw - a cheapo Black & Decker router - a hand drill - and a bunch of clamps including some bar clamps.

[@jeffreyknotts4148]

I ruined a lot of projects (or attempted projects) before I acquired 1 thing...and you can't buy it. Patience. With patience comes skill. With skill comes confidence. After confidence, I sold enough projects to buy a compound sliding miter saw...and a table saw. Thanks for the tips!

[@Krmpfpks]

Good on you! I fall into the trap of wanting to finish a project and I tend to get impatient at the end of the day…

[@tburrelliv]

Great video. Here are a couple of variations that may help also, 1: when using a speed square with a circular saw, I like to put the square on the far edge of the board (the edge I'm cutting toward) for longer cuts to prevent sideways movement after running off the end. 2: I do a similar thing as the level tick to joint boards on a table saw. The only difference is I use Unistrut/Superstrut so I can screw it in from the side and not have to worry about it shifting. You do have to add shims between the wood and the Superstrut if it's an actual live edge.

[@matthewhardesty6872]

Point 1 is great, thanks for the tip!

[@weedeater64]

Best dust collection by far is a leaf rake and a scoop shovel.

[@padcom]

In my short experience the four power tools to start with is a circular saw, miter saw, drill and table drill. Those don't need to be super expensive (although the higher you aim the easier it will be to do things right with them), but they are pretty much essential in woodworking. Then there is the table saw. That one is not only dangerous and requires that you really think-before-you-cut, but choosing a right one is really not that simple. Anyways - great video! Thanks!

[@elianderson103]

I actually tried the level trick and found it to work ok, but even better I bought a no 4 hand plane (Ace had a basic Stanley for only $30) and now I'm addicted to using that for jointing. I got my table saw second hand and the fence isn't very good, so using a handplane really made things easier. Now I am making sleds like your jointing sled, but will say that the handplane has probably been the most used tool for fine adjustments even after improving my tablesaw and other tools!

[@martinrwolfe]

If you are buying only one hand plane I would recommend a No.5 or a 5½. They are better at jointing than a No.4 and can still smooth but no where as expensive as the dedicated jointers the No.7 and No.8.

[@wayneprice6918]

I was able to buy a 22 inch jointer plane at a local auction for $35. Old tools are cheaper at auctions and estate sales. I already had 3 jointer planes that were a lot more expensive but this $ 35 special ended up being my best jointer plane. It was an old Sargent VBM made around 1910 to 1918. I also agree with the other comment. A nice 5 1/2 or 6 makes a good jointer plane.

[@davidhunt6508]

You can build a router table/cabinet/station. New Yankee workshop has the plans to do one, and although very time consuming, mine turned out alright, especially considering my skill level. Note: Even though the top is laminated with Formica, if liquid gets into the miter slot area(even with an aluminum track in place) it can cause the mdf underneath to swell. The area between my miter track and edge of top is now unusable, limiting the width of pieces I can route. Not normally an issue as I don't usually route big pieces, and there are workarounds, but annoying never the less. One day I might re-do it.

[@ShaunLang]

If you are looking for a budget table saw to get started, the Ridgid 4560 is great. It sells for $400 and you get a contractor saw for the price of a portable saw. It has a cast iron top, dead on accurate fence, and even a good miter gauge. I can't recommend it enough.

[@wayneprice6918]

After 40 years of woodworking, I finally bought a nice Swanson 8 foot level. I now have a killer straight edge. I can successfully " joint " long boards. You can use a table saw or a circular saw with a home made saw guide. I made saw guides 96", 55", and 42" long. I first scribe a line on the edge of the board I wish to joint with the 8 foot level. Then I cut that line with my circular saw and the homemade 96" plywood saw guide. (One sheet of 3/8" plywood will make 3 saw guides). This gives me a really straight edge that I can TEST with the 8 foot level. I can clean it up with my 22" jointer plane if I need to. Then I can rip the board to width on the table saw or with the circular saw. The home made saw guides in conjunction with the 8 foot level give me a "poor man's track saw" that are easy to use, portable, and relatively inexpensive. I should have bought the 8 foot box level years ago. Love your videos! Great content !

[@randyscrafts8575]

The Kreg circular saw jig works great. I have one. Setting it up with your circular saw is a real PITA and I recommend a dedicated saw for it to remain set up.

[@TaiChiPlay]

The are 12" wipe squares. Pretty handy for wider cuts with your circular saw.

[@horstmerkle9114]

I like this video. Even though I’m not a novice and have a good set of (power) tools what I don’t have is space in my garage for e.g. a cabinet table saw, jointer or planer. You show good, solid alternatives. Much appreciated.

[@wayneprice6918]

Crescent makes a speed square that will expand from 7 to 12 inches. (Swing arm) Worked so well I bought three of them.

[@Potemkin2000]

Budget-based: also got pretty good with circular saw - best trick - attach straight off-cuts directly to the wood with a couple drywall screws to serve as edge for the saw. In my case I always paint the wood anyway, so fill the holes (glue and sawdust, filler is not used here), sand and paint.

[@shawnr771]

Thank you for the commentary and the ideas. When using the speed square as a circular saw guide. Be aware that for some reason the base of some brands extends about an 1/8th inch past the perpendicular side. Those will not work. I have found this in older speed squares.

[@weege5.45]

Regarding cutting angles, if you take a scrap piece that is wider than your work piece and cut the scrap to the angle you'd like, take another scrap piece and attach it rotated 90 degrees to the factory edge of the piece you just cut so that it will hook on the edge of your work piece. Use that jig to repeatedly cut identical angles.

[@joshuacrowe2752]

I’m fortunate to have inherited my grandpa’s table saw and jointer. Dad gave me an old miter box and a back saw which is what I used to miter for white a while. Then I got a sliding compound miter saw. I still use the miter box from time to time. I can get more accurate cuts with it than the miter saw because lack of deflection

[@Letsroll000]

Had never seen the dovetail or jointer jig you showed. Be a great angle cutting tool for the tapered legs as you were showing etc great idea. I built a tapering jig that works well but I think I like this idea better.

[@josephmalone253]

Well informative video. Many people started the the same way. Milescraft really outdid themselves with their track guide. It turns a $30 circ saw into a $700 Dewalt or Festool tracksaw. It is also more modern and better engineered than their earlier tools. Kregs current track saw is only $300 and very good. I dont have a need for a track saw since I have a table saw and use a circ saw and straight edge to make 8ft rip cuts. The Kreg router radius guides are much cheaper and safer to use than the Woodpeckers set I bought way back. I do have the Milescraft drill press ($20) and their router compass ($40). The M2k router ($130) guide kept popping off my router so I had to return it. I also have a Skil bench drill press ($130) I use to make mortises. This is cheaper than buying a mortiser. I buy cheap and expensive tools simply because I am a hobbist and do not need much help or see much improvement with high level options. I didn't know they had edge guides for framing squares. I just square the framing square to the table and clamp it.

[@soujrnr]

One thing to add about using a four-foot square method for a jointer is that if the board is bowed, make sure the bow is facing toward the level. Otherwise it will teeter-totter. The two "high points" should be touching the square, and then those high points will be cut out after you establish the straight edge on the other side of the board. It seems obvious, but when I first started out, I think I turned a 1x6 into a 1x1 after chasing a straight edge because I had the bow rocking on the square and didn't realize it. I sure wish I had a video of that escapade. LOL

[@55tmilam]

The jointer trick is cool!

[@triscious]

Love the jointing jig and hadn't seen that style before!

[@DaBurntToaster]

A really easy and cheap trick you can use for cutting edges with the angle marked square like you showed at 3:15 is to go on mcmaster and get yourself a trust bearing, its like a normal bearing but rather than supporting forces from the inner circle to the outer circle, it supports forces from one face to another. basically, you can bolt 2 surfaces together without any rotational forces being applied to the surfaces. so if you get one of those bearings (they can be pretty damn cheap) you can screw the square to the off cut rather than holding it, and it wont budge an inch, even while screwing it down. you can also use this to screw any sort of jig or tool you want to a work piece so long as it has a hole for the screw.

[@monteglover4133]

I’ve been using a clamp on ripping (edge) guides for years to break down plywood They are available for cutting the with and length of the plywood

[@deadonit1967]

What a GREAT video today, Matt. Thank you very much!

[@timothycreasy2161]

Hi Mr. Matt. These are all good ideas for a work around not having the tools. For tool 1, the speed square is a great strait edge. And I have used it a lot for that. Just tip from me is you can use a stair gauge/ rafter gauge on the blade to help lock the edge on an angle when pushing though the cut. That has worked for me several times before I got a miter saw. Thanks for sharing Mr. Matt

[@thettenbach]

Didn't know they made a fence for framing squares! Nice!

[@dj-dg2wx]

Very helpful. Need a dust mask so appreciate the recommendation.

[@MrOmelianchuk]

Super helpful! I got to get a carpenter square and edge guide. That will fit my needs perfectly. Thanks for all the tips!

[@melchoravillaneda180]

I really love your t shirts brother. God bless you!. 😇🙋🏻‍♂️🙏🏻🙌🏻🤗

[@theren8311]

I used my 4ft level (Stanley), table saw (Stanley), and Router (DeWalt) and Crasftsman drill, to build my Daughter's crib. The Level was boss.

[@mattday870]

The dovetail jig I found on your site, and use it all the time now... thank you !

[@danielmiller9894]

I love your transparency in humility. When you first started your hobby I believe the limited resources not only shaped your character but built your endurance. Huge encouragment to us! So little background, I'm just starting my wood working hobby and praying it opens up doors to support my family financially. It's a little scary not having everything I need but I believe the lord will provide. This desire to build isnt going away so im pushing forward. Thank you again for being such a huge blessing ❤

[@aubreygrove2455]

Your video s are super helpful. Thank you for posting. I am now a big fan. .A.D.Grove

[@Grubbet]

That jointing on the table saw is a great idea! Thanks :)

[@gjohnston281]

Great video , lots of good info

[@Fatman698]

Great video. I've been getting more intro carpentry on my house...while my mind screams to get the fancy stuff the budget does not allow. My skillsaw game has been weak...I've found that even the cheap $14 milescraft saw guide does very well for cutting down hollow doors.

[@mfrederickson1]

I love your tool review videos, but these are better (for me anyway). As a beginner and hobbyist, these little tricks are very handy (for when I don't feel like breaking out he jointer, but already have the table saw out). So thanks.

[@hughcules7012]

The skil job site tablesaw is a great budget tablesaw I love mine was $300, don’t think it has changed

[@michaeldequatro1012]

Great tips as always Matt. I keep forgetting to use my level on my table saw. Thanks for the reminder. Also, my Skil router table is the best.

[@davejohnson9495]

Thanks for the video andcthe excellent tips. I really like tge rafter square edge guide. I've never seen one of those and I would find it very useful.👍

[@marathrites]

Thanks for the video and Props for the Black Bay Tudor!

[@cablrus1885]

My harbor freight bauer dust separator on 55gal metal barrel. Separates all material no shaving in my 5hp craftsman shop vac

[@willisplummer]

great video - these are all super helpful tips. thanks man

[@jimgoliver8598]

Excellent tips thanks

[@731Woodworks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ericlecko]

Thanks for the video. Have a great day.

[@731Woodworks]

Thanks! You too!

[@jimrosson6702]

Great video as always Matt. Thanks for sharing

[@melchoravillaneda180]

And your tutorials videos of course!.😊😅❤

[@BobSchroden]

A good alternative to the Framing Square Fence is a Stair Gauge Set. Less expensive and more versatile.

[@vuxentillbarn2255]

Nice Tudor!

[@mysteryshrimp]

Router tables are generally easy to make with semi-large scraps.

[@DixonsWoodshop]

Another great video Matt. Full of tips and tricks. Keep up the great job. 👏

[@johndulin6983]

You should leave links to your shirts! This is one of my favorites you have worn!

[@StoneyMeyerhoeffer]

Another way to explain to naysayers on the level jointer tip. If the board is fully against the fence before it touches the blade, you don't need the level. The level extends the reference surface of the fence to the entire board. You say that you must keep the backs together. This is why. If you had a long enough extended reference surface, you could clamp it to the table saw as an extended fence and then slide the board along as normal and get the same effect. I have something very similar to your jointing jig I made from a taper jig.

[@jk_wrangler13]

You can use a 4ft. Level to do straight cuts as well. That's how I used to rip plywood when I needed a good straight cut. Just have clamp the level down and start cutting

[@garymiller5937]

Great work around, Scott! I like them. Thank you. Please tell Mrs 731 hello and have a wonderful weekend! 😃😃😃❤❤❤

[@xXsilencXx60]

Mitter saw is the best tool !!

[@carolewarner101]

Great tips. However, a Kraig rip cut only works if you have a straight edge on factory cut edge of the sheet material you're cutting.

[@robertbruins894]

Cool Vic saw! I just retired from a 25 year career as a salesman at a True Value.

[@luminousveiws]

Here's a big guide/track saw replacement. I apprenticed (decades ago) and the rule was to use this until he said you were good. Get or make a very straight guide edge board, 1x4ish. Glue it to a piece of thin ply or hardboard wider than your circle saw. Cut the thin board with that saw! Now you have a guide for any future cuts. Clamp to your work and buzz away.

[@dustmaker1000]

Excellent tip in using a level against the fence

[@notfeedynotlazy]

I've been using hand tools for dangerously close to half a century. The TL;DR of the video could be: "Which power tool you don't need? _Every single one of them!"_

[@mysteryshrimp]

I just got a brace because the only thing I couldn't do on my scale and my projects without plugging in was make round holes. Found a Stanley geared drill and a craftsman brace at a flea market. Now even the Texas power grid can't stop me.

[@roy.mclean]

Edge jointing isn't that difficult to do. However, the real challenge is to face joint. If you want a good edge joint, you need to first face joint and then place the jointed face against the fence to joint the edge. Now you have two faces at right angles to each other and a reference edge between them from which to make your measurements. You can cut a perfect edge joint but without jointing a face, you still deal with cupping, twist and warp. If you are working with construction lumber, a jointer (even a 6in one) is probably the most practical tool because, as you showed, the other hacks are good substitutes

[@mmerc9838]

Just signed up for your free group yesteday, considering the paid one. I could really use some customers!

[@jaye2865]

You can also get the larger Swanson Speed Square. Still inexpensive. I have both and use them all the time.

[@crbondur]

Really good ideas, thanks!

[@tallpaul7657]

Some great tips, thank you

[@RnRWoodworkings]

true story! i watched all his methods when i got started made a lot of items to sell with minimum tools to be able to purchase some other things

[@glennryzebol4472]

This is a pretty good list BUT i cannot stress enough how awesome it is to have a jointer. Can you joint boards without? O f course. BUT it will save you SOOOOOOO much time!!! And router tables?? Just make your own. Triton makes a router that you can use in one that basically doubles as a router lift. Awesome. Not hard or expensive to make a pretty good router table.

[@paragod300]

THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!!!!!!

[@jhirn2957]

My track saw is my jointer. 2.5” depth on rails is a lot safer than raising my table saw blade 3” inch to account for jig height. Long boards, no problem.

[@mberger14]

I am working out of my 2 car garage that is insulated but not heated and doesn't have 220-240 volt power. What would you use to heat the garage/workshop in the winter? I saw you had those propane heater but I am afraid of starting a fire and CO poisoning.

[@FrankieZR]

Regarding the Hercules dust collector from Harbor Freight, Harbor Freight frequently runs a sale, like they're doing this weekend, where any single item is a certain percentage off. This weekend any single item is 15% off, but I've seen it as high as 40% off. That Hercules dust collector is already a steal at $299, but at 15% or even 40% off, it's even more of a steal.

[@starkey0417]

Another great video sir.

[@dm9078]

Where I grew up we pronounced jointer “ joiner.” Even my wood shop teachers in junior and senior high school pronounced it that way.

[@echoshatter]

In short, if you're on a tight budget, buy the tools that you need for the project(s) you want to accomplish. Know that there is usually a pretty strong correlation between the amount of money you spend and the quality of the tool you get. Cheap tools aren't necessarily bad tools, but you will find yourself having to readjust and recalibrate and resharpen them far more often. Speaking of, invest in decent measurement and alignment tools. If you have a table saw you use a lot it is worth getting a dial gauge to make sure the blade and fence and track slots are all in alignment and square. The quality of my cuts was night and day after spending 2 hours getting my DeWalt contractor table saw aligned. Calipers are very useful, even the cheap ones will work well for their main purpose - transferring measurements - with the only downside being the displayed measurements are likely off. Generally, when selecting measurement tools you want to see what the accuracy of the product, so it should say on the product or website what the accuracy is. If you don't see that, or if the accuracy isn't listed at three decimal places (thousandths of an inch), then the tool probably isn't worth getting. iGaging makes decent products for an affordable price, their accuracy is pretty high. You're not getting Starrett com levels of accuracy, but you're also not spending $200 for a 12" combination square. That Skil router table/router combo is like $200. It is pretty good. Not great, it is a little fussy and there are some shortcomings, but worth $200. There are some really good uses for a router table, and I would argue that depending on what you're trying to do it is a beginner tool. Plus the combo means you also have a router to use for other routing tasks; when I bought mine it came with a plunge base. The Wen variable speed benchtop drill press has been a tool I use more than I thought I would. I've used it to drill holes in wood, plastic, and metal, used it to make wood plugs and dowels, used it with a hole saw, etc. If the work you're going to do requires a lot of vertical drilling then this is a good budget friendly option. The Milescraft drill gizmo isn't terrible, but it isn't great either. It's best use case is for when a drill press is impractical, such as drilling a hole in a fence post or cutting into cinder block foundation. Can it take the place of a drill press? Kinda, so long as a handheld drill is all the power you need and you don't have 1,000 repeatable holes to make.

[@mjp5546]

You rock dude

[@dustmaker1000]

My two cents it to buy a 12” speed square as one of your first tools

[@rob-toolsandtech2521]

Great video, Matt.

[@mcmathwoodworks]

I agree, great points Matt! I found the Kreg AccuCut has too much wiggle for me. If I get another circular saw rip jig, it might be the Milescraft. Otherwise I’ll just save up for a track saw ;)

[@jwneville7557]

Bought the Milescraft because of this channel, just needed straight cuts, works perfect with my Ridgid 18v saw, and was surprisingly easy to set up, just need to take the tool swing clip off so that you can set the depth of the saw or it will get in the way.

[@RobPetersen-tq7ge]

I had the a bit of the same issue. Maybe it's a practice thing, or a faulty operator bearing (me).

[@mcmathwoodworks]

@ I introduce operator error into using even the nicest of tools, so I can definitely relate to that! Haha!

[@AnWe79]

Disagree on the track saw, you can get a decent no-name one for about $100 (probably a lot less in the US, this is high tax Sweden prices...). If you plan on cutting a lot of sheet goods, get that instead of a circular saw and you're set. Works fine without the track as well, obviously. It's a little more than just a no-name circular saw, sure, but not enough to argue about. Compared to my no-name (older) circular saw, the track saw is way nicer, as it has to be fairly accurate to work in the track, the base is cast instead of (warped from the factory?) sheet metal. If I were to choose between the two, I'd get the track saw any day of the week.

[@soujrnr]

I laughed out loud with the leaf blower "dust collection" system. It's actually a great idea short of a more, uh, graceful, method. My shop is quite large, so a leaf blower makes light work out of it. Just be sure to wear a mask or respirator. I'm working on getting a better dust collection method, but for now, the Jeb Clampet (Beverly Hillbillies) method works.

[@andrewshenton6541]

Ihave the 8ft edge but it needs to be supported in the middle

[@ronswoodshack]

Still use my Dads speed square!

[@beetleclemens3727]

Happy Halloween everyone 🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃

[@dustmaker1000]

Your jig is also an excellent tip

[@je425]

Oh boy, the challenge coins on display in the background let me know that you were the one who constantly got voluntold to make the outgoing PCS stuff for troops.

[@731Woodworks]

I have no idea what you're talking about. Those were all sent to me by viewers.

[@je425]

@731Woodworks womp womp.

[@Berion189]

I know a jig saw is the alternative to the band saw but I can never make clean rounded cuts the way I've seen a band saw can. There is not a lot of fine control so edges are uneven even after sanding. Plus using the jig saw for as short as an hour makes my hand numb. Any tricks to using the jig saw?

[@srae40]

As usual a ton of info, didn't know about using the framing square, that could have helped...Keep it up...

[@MadAtMax.300Blackout]

I can make good free hand cuts but if I have the ability to use a square or if I'm doing rip cuts a 4 ft level, straight edge or framing square clamp it off and do that.

[@Carpenters_Canvas]

I have to disagree with the miles craft drill press thing. I Have one and although it isn't useless, It's hard to use for any larger diameter bits like Forstner bits. I have found it incredibly hard to drill deep holes that are accurate. obviously nothing beats a drill press but not a fan of the miles craft one myself. love the channel thanks for all the time

[@JohnAlexanderICT]

I punched holes into my 12" speed square so that I could screw a 2'x2' 1/4" hobby panel to it, then very carefully ran the saw up the 90 degree and 45 degree sides to make my 'little' straight edge for my circular. I think I now have about 16-18" of runway before it gets wonky.

[@ravenbarsrepairs5594]

They make a 12" Swanson speed square, so it can be a fence for 12" wide boards.

[@blargo]

There's some kind of edit around the 6:20 mark where he's trying to explain how the board against the level is different than the board against the fence. He says something about the board against the fence alone means the cut is referenced against the opposite side of the board, but doesn't explain how putting the level in there fixes that issue. After all, the fence is a flat surface; the level is also a flat surface, so it seems that it's the same situation, just with that flat surface three inches closer to the blade. The one difference I see is that the level is longer than the board, and moves with the board as you cut. That means the high points on the board facing away from the blade always remain in contact with the straight edge. If you just use the fence, as you push the board through, the far end of the board moves past the end of the fence, so the high points may no longer be in contact with the fence.

[@phantomviewer]

A miter saw, just get a quality blade and the sub $100 miter saw from black Friday. You can do it with a circular saw but at some point you are taking way too much time.

[@ralphhowing3473]

You can make every one of those jigs and strait edges out of scrap lumber, every one!!!!!

[@dallasarnold8615]

I started out with no power tools what so ever. A hand crosscut saw, a hand rip saw, a hand file to sharpen them, and a brace and bit for drilling holes. Very slow, very labor intensive, but it teaches you respect for proper care of your tools. While in high school wood shop, one test was to hand saw a 6 inch long 2 X 4 block precisely and square on both ends. We were allowed to attempt it as many times as we wished before showing it to the teacher. But when you showed it to him, it was points off if not correct. You then had a choice of take the points off and try again or just a fail. Try it. Not all that easy, exactly 6 inches and square both ways on both ends.