8 Film Developers, Field Tested Over 6 Months

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📷 GEAR USED IN THIS VIDEO
Denae & Andrew camera straps: www.etsy.com/listing/83790967...
Kodak HC-110: geni.us/xWgXq
Kodak D-76: geni.us/A7Y2GpA
Kodak T-Max: geni.us/d1c3gT
Kodak XTOL: geni.us/ggWGB
Ilford Ilfosol HC: geni.us/DDJt6Lz
Ilford Ilfosol 3: geni.us/sjvfHAe
Ilford Ilfotec DDX: geni.us/G1ec3A
Ilford Perceptol: geni.us/t3T6D
Cinestill Df96: geni.us/J6xJWTw
Ilford Rapid Fixer: geni.us/AuqM
Canon EOS 1V: ebay.to/2koNcYp
Leica M3: ebay.to/2kDuEDD
Nikon FE2: ebay.to/2m1JVhV
Rollei 35: ebay.to/2k8NbYp
NIkkor 24mm f2: ebay.to/2k4ipzI
Nikkor 50mm 1.4: ebay.to/2lLvHS8
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[@FerEste]

I’ve come back to shooting film during thus lockdown and I’ve watched both of your videos on developers a few times. It has helped me choose the right developer so I wanted to thank you. Great work 👏🏻👏🏻🙏🏼

[@samsstreets8684]

Yes! You've answered my question of why I was getting sprocket lines from df96 on many of my images. I could not find the answer anywhere and it was driving me nuts! Thank you!

[@PoeInTheDitch]

Started recognizing places (SF) in random photos. I walk past that dead-end alley close to Dragon’s Gate almost every day. Great breakdown of b&w chemistry. Thanks for taking an unimaginable amount of time and patience to get through all of that.

[@user-eb7dd1nk9g]

Everybody says that liquid D76 or ID11 lasts maximum for 5 months. I used D76 that had been stored for 4 years in a bottle with no air inside at worked well. And if its not enough, recently I`ve tested ID11 which I had brewed in 2016!!! and it worked fine too.

[@colinosullivan930]

Great videos mate. Super helpful! Going to jump in with DD-X as I have a load of ilford HP5+ to develop and I have a few rolls pushed!

[@kuraxxkura]

Always such a pleasure to view photos of your family. So much emotions it brings feelings of nostalgia in a way. I’ll be purchasing my first developer and Rodinal is the most affordable where I’m from. Glad it works well with fp4 because it is one of my favorite film stocks. Thanks for the video!

[@joeysartain6056]

Thanks for all your hard exhaustive work! Great vid!

[@zguy95135]

Wow, knocking it out of the park again. Great photos too btw! I really love FP4 as well, it's so beautiful

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Thank you Joseph!

[@arty2917]

Thank you so much for doing these videos!

[@charleyhitsimon]

Hey great video! Thank you for sharing. I store my chemicals in "bag in a box" containers. I mix stock solutions, pour it into the bag, push the air out and attach the tap. After that air (i.e. oxygen) never gets in contact with the developer again. I've never had xtol or ID-11 go bad, even after more than one and a half years. After three years of shooting I finally found combos I like: one of my favorite is Delta400 pushed to 1600 in Xtol 1+1. For Tri-X or FP4 I stay with the usual D76 or ID-11.

[@gameloozer731]

I have shot two bulk 100’ rolls of Ultrafine extreme 400 and developed all of them in Rodinal 1+50, simply because this seemed the most economical way to shoot film. Love the look and I like the grit it gets at 1600 and 3200. I recently bought a bottle of hc110 and the shorter times and punchiness are great. Thanks for doing this test

[@ccoppola82]

I always love these videos. One to try especially if you have a broad range of contrasts on one roll would be Barry Thornton 2 bath developer. It’s SUPER easy to make, basically a d23 variant, and creates a very flexible negative to work with either in Post digitally or with VC paper in the darkroom.

[@sailonstellarwinds]

What a beautiful video! Much love.

[@JacobCarlson]

Another super useful video. Thanks as always!

[@dangerpowers123]

Excellent stuff. Thank you

[@dahnubiggs735]

Hey Andrew, Great video and impressive amount of work!! Well done. I wanted to note other than in different lighting situations the the exposure/highlights might have been already blown out (it's hard to compare with using different rolls in different situation and different developers). The other things is dilution and I think you should explore it with the same developers as it makes a difference in terms of contrast, grains, sharpness...etc and obviously cost! I think that's one of the beautiful things about black and white photography is all these decision that you make, from picking the film stock, shooting and exposing the films, choosing the developer, diluting it/ using it straight, pushing/pulling and printing/scanning! ID-11 is cool I hope you like it :) thanks again!

[@dalehammond1749]

Very balanced and accurate video, thanks. HC-110 has been my go-to developer but now due to current factors I'm changing to Rodinal. Evidently many are doing the same thing. For fresh bottles there's currently a two month waiting list.

[@jbradfordphoto]

Another great one man. Been brushing up on your channel lately as I'm considering making the jump to Fuji now that the XH-1 is so much more affordable. I sometimes forget you're a big film shooter too. I love that you keep the videos mixed up between the Fuji stuff and the film stuff. It's cool to see that I've got a lot of common photo interests with ya, Andrew!

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Thanks man. Yeah the videos about film never do as well as videos about Fuji gear, but there are a few out there who appreciate them ;) But I mostly do it to push myself.

[@jbradfordphoto]

@@AndrewGoodCamera I hear you man. The gear vids seem overly emphasized on here. I am working on a video now that I hope works out. I had the bright idea to try using the PC sync on my RB67 to an AD200 strobe for OCF macros on Ektar 100, haha. I have a feeling I probably underexposed half the roll, but that's part of the fun of film I think.

[@yl9154]

Thank you! This was very informative.

[@ryan2stix]

Awesome stuff, so inspiring...diving in head first and getting a darkroom set up

[@rjcardoso]

good advices and great value video. thanks!

[@nathyfredes4973]

Andrew I got to say, I just love this analog comparison videos! Please keep them going! As always beautiful shots! Thank u!

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Thank you for your kind words, Nathy

[@bodythetan]

Great video. Love HC 110 (Ilford) and use it to develop 100 speed films like FP4, Acros, Delta as well as 400 speed films like HP5 (box speed or pushed). I find a lot more variation can be achieved with different amounts of agitation and/or scanning. EDIT: but you've given me something to think about in terms of Rodinal and DDX for high speeds...

[@captainbackflash]

Thank you very much. You are the first non native german speaker, who does pronounce the name Rollei correctly!

[@MichaelWellman1955]

Blown-out highlights speaks more to overdevelopment than poor film quality. The problem with your technique is that it takes time to learn each film and developer. It's learning to use the right time development for each film/developer is the key

[@stephenrichie4646]

Very helpful. Thanks.

[@alexanderpopov4691]

Great video, thank you! Will stick to rodinal&hc 110 combo gor great shelf life then.

[@as616]

Hi Andrew. I’ve shot and developed B&W film since the ‘70s but still learn something from your videos. Thanks.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

That's high praise! Thanks for watching

[@yoepvh9250]

Great tips at the end! As for the double-shot film, I also tend to spool back film and leave the leader out. I made a habit of folding the smallest part of the leader twice, so I can easily identify the exposed rolls. On starter camera's, really good point on the later generation cameras, its hard to miss, or forget the iso. The Nikon FM3A has modern matrix metering, and i believe it even has dx contacts, so that would be a good one if you want the retro aesthetic. And an empty bank account haha

[@dricul]

Wow! That Minolta 50mm 1.7. Love the look of those images.

[@ackamack101]

Thank you for this video. I really enjoyed it. I wasn’t familiar with Perceptol and I really like the results you got with it. I frequently use FP4 and I must try Perceptol with it sometime. I think I use Rodinal the most myself but I have been venturing out and trying other developers recently. Thanks again for the enjoyable video.

[@tgchism]

This video along with the first one really shares a lot of information! Thank you for that! I've always liked shooting finer grain films like FP4 and Delta 100. Do you have a suggestion for a longer lasting developer that will do the best job. What about one that allows warmer developer temps? Thanks in advance!

[@homesickphotographycomau4107]

Great film video bud. Im on the verge start up a jobo cpr2 and looking to chem to get, a great help, do more vid and stop bag your vid, format is great. at the moment I'm running hp5 in my nikon f4 and fp4 in my Ricoh xrs as well tri-x 400xt in nokia fg-20. Ive done a few roll of xp2super in my olypmus om1n, Ive done few rolls 100Tmax in Fuji half.

[@kennyyuliandrika7162]

Great. Always see film or scanner comparison but never developer one!

[@RickJohnson]

Honestly, my DD-X has been "open" for 2 years now as I only self-process 6-8 rolls of B&W per year at the moment (12 35mm, 2 120 on this bottle). Instead of removing all of the foil when opening the bottle, I only pierced it in two places which limits the air exchange when I use it. It's stored at room temp (68-78°F depending on time of year), and I still get good results from it at 1:4. I may error on the + 15-30 second side due to its age, and there's probably 2-3 rolls left in the 1L bottle. Still on the same original batch of fixer as well, though I do test it each time. TL'DR - expiration dates on Ilford chem, if stored properly, are definitely conservative.

[@SinaFarhat]

Good job with this massive test!! I stick to d76 myself! Also if you have the chance get a Canon 1v, it is a excellent camera!

[@AdrianBacon]

I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again: replenished Xtol. You don’t know what you’re missing until you try it. I know everybody has their own preference, but I process *a lot* of film and replenished XTOL always seems to make the nicest negatives no matter what film stock I throw at it. There’s just something about that combination of having used xtol mixed with new xtol in a replenished system that gives that grain, sharpness, and tonality a look that’s hard to describe yet at the same time, an unmistakable “you know it when you see it” look and feel. This is why I put replenished Xtol in a separate class from just xtol. Yes, they’re both xtol, but replenished xtol chemically speaking, is a different developer than straight or diluted xtol. It has very different development times, and very different behavior.

[@user-ti9zc1xv2b]

Pablo Inirio also claimed this with paper developer, very interesting.

[@digitalcake]

How do you store it and replenish it?

[@AdrianBacon]

@@digitalcake Replenishment involves maintaining two solutions, one solution is your working solution, the other your replenishment solution. You mix xtol up following the directions and the result is both the working solution and the replenisher. If just starting out, split that 5L in half. One is your working solution, the other your replenisher. If you already have working solution, then you just mixed up 5L of replenisher. You store your working solution in a large airtight bottle, preferably glass. It should be at least one liter, preferably two to three. I store my replenisher solution in wine bags made by astro-paq. They come with a box and spigot. Once filled, you can draw off replenisher without exposing the rest to air. To replenish, you pour your working solution into the bottles you use for your tempering bath, and process your film with that developer. The used developer goes back into those same bottles at the end of the processing time. Then, for every roll of film that you processed, you draw 70ml of replenisher solution from the wine bag and put it in the large working solution bottle. From there, you top off the working solution bottle with the used developer that you just used and discard the left-over developer. For the next batch of film, repeat the same process. If just starting out, for the first 5-10 rolls, you effectively have fresh xtol, so use the fresh non-diluted xtol times noted in the xtol data sheet, and as you process more film, transition to the replenished times in the data sheet. Depending on the size of your working solution bottle, this could be as few as 5 rolls, and as many as 15 or more, but you will start to notice a difference in the negatives after just a few rolls and it will get progressively better until the working solution bottle reaches steady state. Once there, it's just a matter of maintaining that. A few recommendations: 1. you should use distilled water when mixing up the xtol. 2. DO NOT DILUTE. Replenished xtol is meant to be used undiluted. Diluting 1+1 (or any other dilution ratio) will kill your bottle of working solution. Don't do it. 3. If replenishing, it's recommended to monitor the working solution activity level with control strips. You can either make your own, or you can buy them from Ilford. XTOL is pretty stable so this isn't 100% necessary, but it's useful to know where your working solution bottle is at so you can modify how much you replenish per roll.

[@digitalcake]

@@AdrianBacon Hey wow, thanks for the detailed reply. I will get some Xtol when I've used up my D76 and give this a go. Cheers!

[@AdrianBacon]

@@digitalcake 👍

[@captainsleathergoods]

Very useful video I will certainly consider this before developing my B&W rolls, thanks. By the way, would you consider doing the same test but with colour and slide film ? I really like your videos and would really like to see you do it with these types of film.

[@mracdcjailbreak]

Thanks for the video! I must say that in testament to how subjective photography is, delta 400 in xtol is one of my favourite film/developer combinations. I suspect as well that the scanning process makes a big different in regards to black point and contrast.

[@dj-aj6882]

I find it great how you cover all the different options. Do you have any Idea which combination you would choose on the European market?

[@nige1rumsey]

Great work, Andrew. There were some lovely shots there. I'm not new to film but I still love HC-110. I don't shoot a huge amount of film so the long shelf life is ideal for me. I can push tri-x to 1600 without the grain becoming overpowering, I just hope the new formula has only changed the viscosity. Ultrafine Extreme still isn't available on this side of the pond which I just don't understand, someone needs to get on that. Keep shooting!

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Thanks Nigel. Regarding new HC-110, I saw someone with early access post a comparison and they looked extremely close to me.

[@elmofromtheelmstreet]

Great video and mind-blowing photos

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Thanks!

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Thanks!

[@StarKnight83]

I really liked the negs I got from df96 - but I do my B&W dev in a rondix

[@user-tb4lr1ye8x]

You do really great comparisons, I find them very informative. How about a comparison using caffenol developer with couple of different films? Thanks

[@-dubu]

I keep a sharpie in my bag and write a D on both sides of the film leader when I take it out of my camera. Saves me exposing it twice. I also write what iso it was shot at on the canister, whether it was box speed or I messed up.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Really great tip. Thanks!

[@ruffprophetproductions]

Honestly the photos you made were the best part of the video, lol. BUT the info was crucial!

[@matneu27]

Thank you for the great overview and showing us the differences of developers 👍 What about the shell live if we flood the rest of the bottle with a safe gas like sold from tetenal. The biggest enemy in a half full (developer} bottle is air because of oxidation.

[@jean-pierrejoubert6140]

Wait, no Caffenol? 🤪 Seriously, this is a great video (I mean, a Spy vs. Spy statue?!?). I would be curious to see you geek out on coffee developers, too, though.

[@hoorayforpentax3801]

Agree. Caffenol is indeed the final frontier in this case.

[@boymatin5845]

This is why I love KZbin!

[@antnguyen]

"You should always load black and white film in subdued lighting" @1:31 loads film on the sun (seriously though, thank you for the field test)

[@ljames43230]

Being new to developing film, I love these reviews. I just recently picked up some HC110, but I think I'm going to get some Rodinal for 100 speed film. I've been leaning towards tmax 400, but also use acros.

[@edwardcrosby5034]

Adox fx-39 works really well with tmax400 and Fuji Acros

[@julianmaresch]

Rodinal is a really great developer for getting started. I just used mine about halfway trough but now got the Ilford DDX because I wanted to try something new. Rodinal works with nearly everything though - and experimenting with 1+25/1+50 gives you a fine but interesting difference too, where I found the 1+25 to be a little bit on the rougher, contrasty side, and the 1+50 working better for a lot of shadow detail and a wide range of grey (correct me if I'm wrong though!). Especially the combination of Ilford FP4 and Rodinal at 125 hinted at by Andrew already is really great. I'd say that it handles low speed films better than high-speed or T-Grain films but if you have to do it it does its job there too.

[@Maul9999]

Great video, but I notice an issue with the Ultrafine film. It may have different chemicals on the film reel, so changing the expose timing and comparison with DDX can't hurt. Also, I noticed that you can't use the whole liquid of the D96 bottle without having one of the black powder stick on the film.

[@AndrewMurphy8383]

ANDREW i am andrew to but i would really really realy would love to see you do a video how to mix your develoment chem and how to mix the ratio for the chem with water i know it confuse me and i bet it confues new photogerphs as well

[@toomanyhobbies8119]

Hey Andrew this video helped me a lot just getting back to film photo, developing lock like the way for me, ( 35mm, 120, 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 ) found 510 pyro on the 120ist page have you tryed it. Kevin

[@richardg6109]

Nice video. Yeah, Rodinal is great with 100 speed film/35mm. 400 speed film - tons of grain. I've found XTOL is a great general use developer for all speeds.

[@neilpiper9889]

Best on 120 Tri X film. Rodinal is fantastic.

[@albertogarcia1386]

Thanks for the video. I am looking for a Fomapan developer. I recently heard that the 200 speed one it is slightly different to the others. I am not sure which could be the best for general Fomapan films. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@sandrokalandadze9501]

you are producing great videos

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Thanks Sandra

[@RandyPollock]

I using DD-X with HP5+ in my Canon Canonet.

[@Cibeen]

Thanks great video. I use xtol stock dilution with fomapan 400 developed at box speed, the high light are all blown out which is very frustrating. Could anyone recommend a developer which works better with fomapan 400 at box speed?

[@garbageman9145]

Hello, I'm going to develop for the first time next weekend, I shot with Kodax Tri X-400. I'm planning on using D76, what else do I need? If you can give me your quick advice and also which chemicals for Portra 400? Thanks, Your videos inspired me to do this lol

[@jieelyuu]

I am interested in DF96 because it looks really clean and easy. I just don't like the mess of mixing / storing chemical solutions. I did some research about the issue you mentioned and found this in the instruction manual for DF96: Bromide drag lines can occur if left to stand for any more than 1 minute. So yeah watch out DF96 users.

[@yoepvh9250]

It's actually one of the reasons I stopped using DF96, next to the cost. I'm pretty happy with rodinal, although it can get grainy at high iso's

[@gero_k99]

How did you dilute Rodinal? Did you try a stand develop?

[@dian_photo]

I'm really suprised, that you didn't mention, that Rodinal is not playing well, with t-grain (and alike) films (like Tmax or Delta). With something like FP4+ Hp5+ or Foma, it's amazing (I use those films, so it's natural to me, top use Rodinal). I do love the Bergger Pancro/Rodinal combo. It's starting to be my fav combo for BnW work. Do be aware, that I like grain under control, but I don't like clinical (almost digital like) grain like, what I get with HC110. D76 and Xtol looks amazing, and I had some really good results with Ilfosol 3, so I don't know, what happened there. Anyways, thank you for coming to my TED talk.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Stirring presentation! ;)

[@terrywbreedlove]

Good old D76 and its equivalents is the standard that almost all B&W films were designed to work with. So for new photographers it is a great place to start. Then later try the other developers for the looks they give and go with your preference.

[@gr3ndizer97]

Thanks for the advise, im new to film photography and planning to shoot delta 3200 cuz i like grain and to achieve moody look, should i go with hc110 or rodinal?

[@terrywbreedlove]

@@gr3ndizer97 Rodinal will give you big grain try that

[@indrekpoiss]

Hi, what scanner do you use? Nice vids!

[@NewEyesMedia]

What film scanners do y'all use or recommend?

[@groovesme]

That's a lot of chemistry to use up. Not long for fall colors any cool plans?

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

I should definitely make some :)

[@robifleming]

I’ve been using DDX but recently got a bottle of Rodinal. What dilution did you use?

[@GeorgiosKalaydjian]

Thank you Andrew, great job 👏🏻 I have the D-76 as 1 Gallon powder, my question; can I split the powder by weight to 7 or 8 parts, and every time I want to develop I mix one part? I mean will the powder remain fresh until the date of expiry mentioned in the pack? Appreciate hearing your opinion on this. Thank you again.

[@jean-claudemuller3199]

splitting powder is not a good idea, because: you don't know if the powder remained homogeneous in the bag after preparing powders developers they need some time to dissolve very fine solid cristals. I wait a minimum of 24 hours. dissolving powders has to be made in hot water to be efficient and you cannot just refresh it quickly without interrupting the dissolving process. The best way is to store stock solutions in foldable bottles, pressing out all the air on top of them

[@bryonpike2361]

Do you recall the time/temperature/agitation scheme you used for Tmax Developer and Ultrafine 400? I’ve been looking for the right developer to use for a roll of Ultrafine 400 with some important pictures on it. I was surprised by how well this film combined with Tmax Developer for you, so I’d like to try it (with a test roll I care less about first, of course). Seems like the combo gives good grain and highlight retention. Thanks for the awesome video! I discovered Ultrafine Extreme thanks to you, and I just bought a box of rolls to figure out home development for myself.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

I always follow Massive Dev chart with stock mixes

[@bryonpike2361]

@@AndrewGoodCamera Thanks!

[@them0890]

Hey, denno if this is the right spot to post this question, but I figured I'd give it a try😅 I've enjoyed these two videos on developers a lot, since I wanne get into developing. I didn't even know, that there was that big of an impact from the developer tbh 🌝 I'm still a little overwhelmed tho, so I hope someone in the comments can suggest a first developer for me. I mostly shoot hp 5, but I want to experiment with other film stocks. I prefer a less grainy look. While I do enjoy grain in photos and surely love it a lot more then digital grain, I don't want it to be the focus of the picture. I also wanne push film now and then since that is a big part of my decision to start developing (my local lab charges quiiite a bit for that) From what I've seen, it seems that rodinol or d 76 would be a good start, but I'd LOVE a second opinion. Thanks to anyone willing to share their experience!

[@neilpiper9889]

All 35mm users on here. Tri x 120 in a 1956 10 bladed iris 75mm 3.5 Lumaxar lens Yashica Mat with 1 to 25 Rodinal for 7 minutes only. Awesome.

[@gero_k99]

Which developer aside from DD-X would you recommend for pushing 400 speed films like Tri-X? Love your comparison videos! Great work

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Hc-110 works great for pushing

[@gero_k99]

@@AndrewGoodCamera Perfect, I already use it. Would you recommend thinner dilutions like 1+79 for reduced grain or just standard 1+31?

[@macbookdieter]

I don’t recall you mentioning what the ratio’s where on any of the developers. i.e. 1:1 1:2 1:3?

[@neehalkhan5439]

Hi Andrew, Awesome video as always. Keep the good work. BUT!!! We all want one thing.... PHOTO DUEL!!! 😁. I beg your pardon i am being rude here. But i guess almost all of your subscribers are waiting to see your next photo duel. Please release a photo duel video as soon as possible. Thank you Andrew. 👍

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Haha. Actually, most of our subscribers just want more Fuji gear reviews. :)

[@denaebranch9313]

Well this makes me happy! I was just thinking we need to plan one!

[@node547]

You could roll your own D76 in smaller quantities.

[@0y0chang0]

Im falling asleep now, just kidding. I watched both BW developer videos and learned a lot. Great comparisons and great tips at the end. As an idea, maybe do a series on beginning with black and white photography with more pointers.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

I make my videos for folks needing a sleep aid and film geeks alike. :)

[@mp3remix171]

I have an opened bottle of rodinal that i have used for 5-6 rolls, i read somwhere that the developer, once opend, last for about 6 monthsand then goes bad, is this true or can i keep using it? I develop at a slow pase because i shoot both color and bw (only develop bw at home).

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Most developers have a short shelf life. Not Rodinal. That stuff will last for decades if you've got it sealed correctly.

[@mp3remix171]

@@AndrewGoodCamera Yeah thats a problem aswell, i have it in the little bottle it came in but its not airtight, and if i turn the bottle it will leak, so i put the bottle in a plastic zip lock bag, do u have any tips on containers to store it in??

[@stevenpam]

01:35 Any other oldtimers triggered by this? 😐 Awesome and very useful field test, though! I found it more helpful than your previous "scientific" test.

[@ezekielkokspeaks]

Pls try pyrocat hd

[@vikmanphotography7984]

Any chance there's a comparison of color film developers in the future?

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Hadn't really considered that. C-41 developers don't tend to have as big an impact on color film as do B&W developers do on B&W

[@markhou]

Oh shoot. I just bought ilfosol 3 to develop my tri-x 400. Anything I can do to make it look decent when shooting? I should've watched your videos before diving into film

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

I think you just have to make sure you're right on with exposure. Less room for over-exposing. When in doubt, maybe slightly under-expose (which is usually the opposite advice as I'd usually give). And also make extra sure you are using proper temperatures and times to develop.

[@markhou]

@@AndrewGoodCamera thank you Andrew!

[@brankokosteski]

I have been using Ilfosol 3 for a long time now and I am very fond of this developer. Very high acutance (very sharp results, more grain - which I like) and very nice tonality. Never had issues with blown highlights, even if I overexpose the shot several stops over. I use it in 1+14 dillution, but if you don't shoot often, go with 1+9. And also, people say this dev is only for low speed films, but I shoot ilford hp5+ 90% of the time and I am very satisfied with the results.

[@markhou]

@@brankokosteski Thanks for your input! I was about to try 1+14, but then I learned about the shelf life and didn't want to risk it. I ended up buying a bottle of Rodinal and I'm experimenting with stand development. I'll probably revisit ilfosol in the future.

[@musk.]

HC-110 is no longer the syrup-like solution you have in this video. Do you know if the shelf life is different now?

[@kian8382]

Andrew you've done an absolutely fantastic job helping people, but I'm going to stay pushing LR sliders for now, film is not for me. Looking forward to the next photo duel.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

It's not for me either. And yet, I can't stop. :)

[@Scott_Graham]

You’ve successfully converted me to an Ultrafine evangelist.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

Haha. Awesome. You know, I've honestly thought about trying to resell it, after leveling up the packaging a bit. :)

[@Scott_Graham]

@@AndrewGoodCamera I thought the same thing. Maybe I can be their Canadian distributor 🤔

[@psyxodolby08]

ok, let's test the open can of DD-X after 8 years of storage

[@psyxodolby08]

why do all the developers appear in a different order? maybe it’s worth comparing the two developers face to face and pointing to the strengths and weaknesses of each? look how Borut Peterlin did it with the developer D-76 (vlog #55) there is nothing wrong with doing like him

[@caiodlimaM]

where is the ilford ID-11 ?????

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

In London, I would suspect.

[@georgeosier6892]

RO9 is really not Rodinal

[@Pezinokrm]

Learn to use light meter and follow temperature guidelines when using ILFORD developers anyone of them will work well.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

I don't disagree. But some are more forgiving for schmucks like me than others. :)

[@IoRobot_98]

Sorry but what's the point of a comparison if every picture and film is different? A proper comparison is done by shooting the same subject with the same film, then developing by instructions the same film split for various developers... not shooting random pictures with random film and picking a developer...

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

This was not the "scientific" evaluation. It is just anecdotal, as I said. However, it is a follow up to the video that is more scientific of you'd like direct comparisons.

[@kevin-parratt-artist]

Please, that horrible background noise.. music? It's ***t. Can't stay with this.