8 Tips for Creating Laser Cut Fine Art || Laser Cutting Tips

In this video I share my tips for creating Fine Art with your laser cutting machine. I also throw in a few extra tips on screen so be sure to watch out for those ;)
Glue: amzn.to/3rSp3ao
Lacquer: amzn.to/3pT7Pbh
(Additional Materials shown listed at bottom)
Hummingbird DIY: • DIY Hummingbird Orname...
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Materials Used:
Winsor Newton Watercolors ( travel pan) : amzn.to/2ZBnUsd
Winsor Newton Watercolors (tubes): amzn.to/2ZFYfhS
Winsor Newton White Gouche: amzn.to/3gpmiaJ
Colwood Detailer Unit (starter kit): amzn.to/3gquHed
Pyrography Pen ( I spliced new plug, does not work with Colwood as is): amzn.to/2B63KML
Pyrography Pen Tips: amzn.to/2B63flR
Winsor Newton Ink: amzn.to/2YGVImT
Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2Vrz9QU

[@heinrich-peterhimmelbauer1418]

I like to draw with ink a lot and laser cutting was just an instrument for tools and usual "art" pieces. THIS is another level, which stunned me a lot. I will give it a try, thanks a lot for Your inspirations and keep up Your work!

[@McQueenPaul]

I was very happy to see this video. I bought a laser not long ago but have struggled with which direction to go with it as I am more drawn to art than to craft, so your video has opened my eyes to more possibilities. Thank you.

[@DrakeRunner]

I was really glad to see a video like this. A lot of laser art out there is "Go grab an image off the internet", and its hard to find things about the actual design choices.

[@ArtistExplores]

Thanks so much for the feedback! I've been seeing this as well-especially in glowforge facebook groups! I think as I move forward with my DIYs I'll talk a little bit more in the beginning about the design process.

[@losmon68]

Great Ideas, you have. I've been experimenting with assemblies like yours; dowels and movement. Thanks for sharing!

[@williamfoster7920]

Nice to see some dimensional art. I have been experimenting with this layering / shadowbox art for a little while now. It is so much nicer than the generic cookie cutter cutsie stuff we see so much of. Keep up the good work....👌

[@markhoward6981]

Great video. Your artwork is really beautiful and unique.

[@chefranylaitenu7731]

First video I see from your channel and what a great content! 🌈🌟 Much good info that you don't find easy thank you!

[@garyevans3494]

great tips. best advice is to make something unique!

[@videojournal2236]

this is what i was looking for. TY!

[@1haggler]

Amazing work! The layered 3D art is one of the many avenues I am taking with my laser. Also looking into a wood burning pen, to add some detail.

[@ramonheard2758]

Love it. Now I wanna be a laser artist.

[@foozmanagement6513]

Thanks for your inspirational insights Natasha. You certainly get the cogs moving in my creativity....

[@ArtistExplores]

Thank you! I'm so happy to help get those cogs moving. Have fun creating. :)

[@Renwark]

Fantastic.

[@adamgeiger4990]

Nice Work.

[@hightechzone1938]

Natasha u ARE TOO GOOD + GREAT

[@donaldtimmons7675]

Thank you for the tips, and inspiration!

[@ArtistExplores]

You are so welcome! Thanks for watching :)

[@jamesmcalpin2325]

Great info

[@genedunlap8384]

Very cool work id like to see more you just got a follower

[@aaronstanley7121]

Thank you for taking the time to make this incredibly informative video! You're advice is so thoughtful. I hope the great karma returns to you!

[@alfredozavala9753]

Excelente voy a hacer algo parecido, con canto y resina

[@jasonash9121]

Hi, Natasha. Great video. I would suggest that you give Titebond 1 a try, as it dries much lighter than Titebond 3. Titebond 3 is intended for applications that are likely to become wet, which I doubt applies to your pieces. I use Titebond 1 for finer woodworking and Titebond 2 or 3 for pieces that are likely to see more heavy use. Cheers.

[@LOCKEYJ]

Lovely original work

[@ArtistExplores]

Thank you so much! ❤ I saw your previous comment too, (I still get the notification even if it's deleted ;) ) I know wood isn't the most archival product but I try to think about using archival materials as much as possible to try and help with lightfast issues that a client may have in the next 10 - 50 years while I'm still alive (lol). Obviously There's going to be issues when working with wood, but I try to do the best I can- you never know. There are some reliefs and sculptures made from wood that have survived in temples and museums throughout Asia and other parts of the world. :)

[@mtz3843]

nice vid, ty, question, im looking forward into getting into this, what laser machine are you using?

[@AcrylicMemories]

subbed 2 years later

[@biodieseler1]

Great video, love watching you create your art. Have you tried Acrylic lacquers like those from Liquitex? Probably better archival qualities and shouldn't affect the colours.

[@ArtistExplores]

I have tried Winsor Newton, Krylon and Liquitex they all yellowed the baltic birch. If you have any other brand suggestions I'd be happy to test them out.

[@squidskunk]

pro tip. im a professional wood carver i suggest you try zinsser seal coat de-waxed shellac to seal your art (the de-waxed part is of most importance) . you can then apply any top coat of your choosing including water based over your water colors... love your art by the way.

[@ArtistExplores]

Thanks for the suggestion, I will have to try it out and see how it does with the watercolors!

[@TeraPatch]

How the heck do you go about making the owl and skull?!?! Those look great.

[@sevendesign1805]

Great work! Have you tried super glue? I use Loctite - professional super glue. I create wood mechanisms, mechanical automata. Some have been in use in an office spaces for over 2 years almost completely assembled with super glue.

[@ArtistExplores]

Fascinating! EDIT: I see now Loctite is a brand. I'll check it out! :D

[@billsmith7287]

Many thanks, you are original. Hiw about wooden hinges for your birds with dowel not screws.

[@ArtistExplores]

Good idea! I've never seen those before I'll have to look into that.

[@anarablehill5691]

Do you find the water color raises the grain on the birch to the point you might want to address it? I assume a light sanding and then reapplication or something along those lines.

[@ArtistExplores]

actually from what I've seen because the wood just sucks in all the water and pigment it doesn't raise the grain as much as you might be used to with polyurethanes. It still does a little bit but I've never had to do another sanding unless my lacquer dries uneven.

[@mervhoward5821]

Genius….

[@frankesantos]

Are you using a wood burning pen to create the dark lines on your pieces? I was trying to figure out what that is.

[@ArtistExplores]

Yes! I use a Colewood detailer unit with razertip pens.

[@peternanden5776]

Very nice. What laser wattage do you use for this result?

[@ArtistExplores]

I have a 40w Flux Beamo. You can see my full review of the machine here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3TCmXp_d92JmLs

[@ArtistExplores]

Sorry for the delayed response, I missed your comment. I have a Flux Beamo.

[@pizzaklak4564]

Hi there! nice video, lovely art. Just a small question. Is you laser height correct? It looks like it has to cover a lot of distance between the nozzle and the material.

[@ArtistExplores]

Thank you! It is. Every laser cutter is different. I have a Beamo. There's a little clear focus guide that is tucked up against the machine. If it's too close it burns through with thick lines, if it's too far it doesn't cut all the way through so it's pretty easy to tell when it's off even without the focus guide.

[@pizzaklak4564]

@@ArtistExplores That seems like you got it right. Do you use pressured air also?

[@destroyingangel9838]

Perhaps you are not familiar with drawing software or you like the hands on style. But a lot of your hand drawn detail can be done with the laser (engraver). You've done some fine work.

[@ArtistExplores]

Thank you so much! I'm actually very familiar with digital drawing. It is my personal style to do things by hand rather than have the engraver do it. I enjoy working with my hands, and it makes everything one of a kind. I also find it sells much better to my target audience because they want handmade, one of a kind, fine art rather than reproductions of digital linework. Unfortunately I think this is because there seems to be a disconnect between understanding the skill and value of digital art within the traditional gallery setting. Hope to change that through education of the laser cut process but it's challenging. I still get people who look at my art and say: "but the laser does all the work for you right?" even with all the hand work I do. LOL.

[@bleskfmga]

Keep it original - when it comes to creating laser-cut fine art, it's important to separate yourself from the generic home decor scene by developing your own designs and avoiding using other people's designs. Think about layers - when creating your piece, think about what layers you will use, how many layers, how thick those layers will be, and how they will fit together. Use negative space to your advantage - consider leaving negative space between layers to create interesting floating shadow effects that interact with the environment. Experiment with different materials - try using different types of wood, acrylic, or even paper to see what kind of effects you can achieve. Test your designs - before committing to a final design, create a test piece to make sure everything fits together correctly and looks the way you want it to. Be patient - laser cutting is a slow process, so be patient and take your time to ensure that everything is cut precisely. Keep your workspace clean - a clean workspace will help ensure that your machine runs smoothly and that your finished pieces look their best. Always be learning - continue to experiment with new techniques and materials, take classes or workshops, and learn from other artists to continue growing as an artist.

[@Learninghowtorebuild]

How do I make the svg files for my laser ?

[@ArtistExplores]

Thanks for your question! I'll have a video about creating unique SVGs soon.

[@Learninghowtorebuild]

@@ArtistExplores look forward to it.