8 TOOLS I should have bought sooner \\ Beginner WOODWORKING tips

[@startmaking1]

Let me know if there are any other tools you can't live without. Thank you for watching.

[@archer9338]

3M has a cheaper disc in that series called the 310W. I just price checked the U.S. link and the 310W are approximately $0.30 compared to the 710W that are approximately $0.46

[@MrKarlPrince]

Thanks for the video, certainly intend to take up some of your suggestions (centered drill and pencil). My extra suggestion is if using the 3M extract mesh discs you also need to invest in "pad savers" to protect the hooks on the sander, the Bosch Professional Pad Savers seem cheapest for 125mm sanders like our Makita's

[@BobBlarneystone]

A high quality 4 or 6 inch combination square. And let me tell you a tip about Incra rules - a utility knife blade fits nicely in the slots to scribe a crisp line. Just be careful to draw carefully and keep the blade from cutting the Incra rule.

[@maciej9280]

@@BobBlarneystone seccond that, i bught cheap "square set" from Lidl few years back, only a cuple of cuts later found out they were far from square :/

[@frederickwood9116]

-An adequately accurate sliding bevel. One that is not too expensive but not one that will go out of square too easy. Must be cared for though. - And a builder’s square (90 and 45) as it’s more robust and very reliable. - a carpenters marking knife. Again not too expensive. - reading glasses 🤓. Don’t get caught trying to guess. Magnify if it helps.

[@BrianReese-v8q]

Your comments on haters and gatekeepers, and your reluctance to be pushy about like and subscribe earned you my likes and subscription.

[@startmaking1]

That is very kind and a comment that gives me faith that I am doing it as right as I can. Thank you

[@maggew]

It’s true and normally I don’t buy into the flowers and rainbows but it really makes sense for topic.

[@GSCt1000]

I'll second this comment. Keep the hipster wood workers at arms length. Wood working is not a big willy competition. It's a simple practical problem solving task.

[@jeffsimon4563]

@@GSCt1000 ML, Ml L.ll Llll Ll L L Lll ,.ll L L L. ll. L ,!,!,''',!'

[@jeffsimon4563]

@@GSCt1000,''',!',!!,''''''!'!!?'!,!!!''!!,!,!'!,''''''''''!!!!,''''!!,m!'!'!,,'!'M''!''''''''''''''!!''!!'''''!!,!,!'''''!!,''''!'!''''!''!''''''''''!,!!,!'',

[@HighCalibreFilms]

I’ve been watching Malecki, 731, blacktail, Lincoln street, fix this build that, four eyes furniture, Paul Sellers, Rex and I love all those guys … but finding you and hearing your encouragement and authentic self has been awesome. Makes me less afraid to start small and make little steps. Love the wholesome content mate. Great stuff

[@startmaking1]

Wow, they are some of my favourite channels. Some that I watched well before I started out. Thank you.

[@davidpetraitis]

Thank you for the rant on woodworking is whatever you are wanting to create with wood. A great and positive message.

[@startmaking1]

I do like a good rant. Thank you too.

[@leonardbutler9338]

Hi. I have been woodworking over 40 years yet I only recently bought a quality shop apron! I am still getting used to it but there's no doubt I should have bought one years ago. I selectively fill the pockets with essential and frequently used tools: pencils, tape measure, 4 inch Starrett square, 6 inch ruler, etc. No longer am I at the table saw and need my tape measure only to see it sitting on my workbench! p.s. A quality apron will have flaps on horizontal pockets! Otherwise they fill with sawdust.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Leonard. Thank you for watching and for commenting. I may have to bite the bullet soon and get one. How you choose though, I have no idea. It would be nice to have the most used tools so close to hand , though I suspect in my tiny shed where everything is approximately an arms length away it is less necessary. Still, if it stops that 10 minute moment staring at the wall unable to find what is right in front of me . then it would be priceless.

[@seanallard3659]

Leonard i also just starting to use a shop apron. other than the fun my wife makes about me, its great.

[@Dave5843-d9m]

I am the worlds worst at dabbing a tool down somewhere and losing it. It’s incredibly annoying. Overalls help. A well designed apron should be better.

[@leonardbutler9338]

FYI, if you have the means and fancy it, you can have a custom leather apron made for over $500! I have seen KZbin reviews of such aprons made by a company called Leather by Dragonfly. I bought a quality waxed apron (Eco-Zen) with sufficient pockets, designated spot for pencils, a metal clip for a tape measure, etc. I recommend shoulder straps versus tie-around- the neck.

[@nicksmith1415]

I was discussing this very thing. I'd like a decent leather apron. I do have the experience enough to make one but I'd have to buy leather working tools and sew it by hand. Or I can just buy a good quality apron

[@CedomirMr]

Excellent. To the point, no bull, no theatre and honest. Keep it up!

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. Thats really kind.

[@TheWhitetailrancher]

The single and very best part of this entire video is the proper titling. I am more impressed than I can actually state. the Proper use of the simple word "I" which is normally stated as "You" or even "everyone". cannot be overstated! Kudos to the creator of the video! Having enough balls to simply use the word "I"!!!

[@startmaking1]

Hi. Wow, what a great comment. I really didn't know people took that much time over the titles etc. Means a lot that you have taken the time to write a nice comment and one about something I do think about. Much appreciated.

[@TheWhitetailrancher]

@@startmaking1 You are so very welcome, words mean a lot! I sure wish more folks understood that. You do VERY WELL and I appreciate it, obviously!

[@startmaking1]

@@TheWhitetailrancher Thank you kindly. Much appreciated.

[@thehastywombat]

Hinges drove me insane until a friend showed me a self-centering drill bit. Absolute MUST have IMO.

[@startmaking1]

Absolutely. Hinges have ruined so many boxes for me. Or rather I have ruined them trying to do hinges.

[@jamesbarros950]

As someone who has taken the time to make proper dove tails and hand cut traditional joinery… I absolutely love pocket hole joinery for the right application.

[@startmaking1]

Nice comment. Had me worried for the first sentence.lol

[@theofarmmanager267]

Anything which tries to desmystify woodworking and open it up to beginners is great with me. I’ve been woodworking for over 45 years both for fun and as a business. Clearly, when I started, there were no power tools for the smaller shop and everything was done by hand. But we did it. It took longer and took more physical effort but we made very good things. I’m very glad that we now have great adhesives and much better abrasives (I used dog fish skin as sand paper). Despite having a large workshop full of expensive tools, there are few things that I couldn’t be without. I’d prefer to have my table saw, band saw, router, morticer, lathe, thicknesser, jointer, 3 phase extractor, pocket hole machine, both dominos, track saw plus…………but I could live without them albeit, at my age, I can’t perform the most physically exerting tasks anymore. Don’t spend a fortune but spend well. Take chisels: second hand chisels can be very cheap but also can be incredibly chipped, very blunt and made of old softer steel. If you can find a decent set of Marples or Stanley which look like they were well maintained, then give a go. If you can’t find second hand, then there is no need to go for The very expensive sets. Go middle of the road and you might not need better ever. I’ve tried all these expensive pencils and just come back to the old fashioned kind - 2H for accurate marking; 2B for writing on the timber (eg. Left hand top) and a white pencil for writing on darker Timbers such as walnut. About £5 for 20 pencils - but if you like the feel of an expensive pencil, then treat yourself - it is supposed to be fun. Learn skills not how to spend lots of money. Learn how to measure properly; how to saw straight; how to sharpen planes and chisels just using a simple honing guide, a piece of leather as a strop and a diamond sharpening stone (400/1000 grit combo is fine), how to chisel properly, how to plane with something like a No.4 or 5. Then get experience by making simple things first as nothing is more likely to put you off woodworking if you try and make that dining table first time and it doesn’t go well. Small bookcases, picture frames, shelf units will all be really useful and you will learn loads without mistakes costing a fortune. Lastly, buy decent timber. I know that YT has these channels taking pallets and turning them into masterpieces. The reality for a newbie is that the work required to turn pieces of unknown timber from a pallet into something useful is too much. Go and buy from your local woodyard (unlikely to be the rubbish in most big sheds) and get some small pieces of decent oak, ash, chestnut and make something.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Theo. What an amazing comment. I don't think I have had one this detailed and well thought out for a long time. You `are spot on too. I have followed a lot of your advice over the past 2 years. I love my no4 and no5 Stanleys, took me a long time to get them tuned up and to sharpen the irons. And I use exactly what you say, diamond stones, nothing expensive, the honing guide and a strop. Still a way to go but that is the fun. I don't have a lot of the larger power tools, if any depending on what you class as large. I just don't have the space but I am very much looking forward to getting to the stage where I feel that to progress I can justify them. I am in awe of those of you who learnt your skills on the hand tools, I watch a lot of Paul Sellers and am amazed at what can be done with hand tools. For many reason the effort to build solely with hand tools is also not possible for me for larger builds, I just don't have the energy to do it. But you can't beat the feel of a hand tool carving through the wood fibres in my opinion. I have just bought what I class as 2 expensive chisels and so far am not blown away. They are good but like you said if you can find used chisels with a decent quality steel then they will serve you perfectly. And in all truth a cheap set can also be just as good if you are only a weekend woodworker in my opinion. I have a few for £3 each and what they taught me was how to sharpen as they dulled so much quicker so I was never short of practise. As for wood, I learnt my lesson early with moving pine, partly my naivety and not allowing for the movement but also poor quality wood. Not a fan of the pallets, especially without a thicknesser at the very least. Nothing comes for free, the effort is huge. I order most of my timber , especially hard wood, already milled and that seems to help a lot at the moment. Same as everything, as the skills improve so can the wood. Thank you again for such a great message and please don't hesitate to share your experience in any of the other videos or direct to my email. Much appreciated.

[@Cenedd]

Just one thing to note. The old Marples chisels (I have a few from the 70's) are great. Good steel and well ground. The newer ones (the red and yellow handles to be specific) are going to need so much grinding to make them useable, that you'll likely leave them on a shelf. The modern Stanleys are probably not a patch on the old but they're at least not a million miles off the right geometry. Narex seem to be very well respected at entry-level but I can't speak from personal experience.

[@davidpetraitis]

Thank you for this long comment, and sharing your experience. I am 74 and beginning woodworking with small projects for the house.

[@ogearbox6132]

I have been doing woodworking off and on over decades. Now retired I find your detailed videos quite informative. Thx keep em coming. And the trolls….? If you just ignore them they usually bugger off.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you very much. And you are right. We should all ignore the trolls.

[@tigloki]

Great video! Thanks! I subscribed. On pocket holes vs "real joinery" - When I started out, I wanted to be a joinery master. I learned about all the different ways I could do it. Then I realized, as I was looking at antique furniture to see how craftsmen made things that are still in use 100 years later, pocket holes aren't new! "Traditional joinery" is awesome and looks beautiful! But when a pocket hole could be hidden, and the use case was appropriate, old-school craftsmen used them too. That discovery led to my first Kreg pocket hole jig, and I love it. I still fancy it up on a joint that is going to be in public view, but if you have to have the thing upside down or if you need a flashlight to find my pocket hole, you can bet there's one there. Quick. Easy. Quality.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you so much. You have really nailed it with your comment. Pardon the pun. I agree whole heartedly. Time and place. And thank you for subbing. Appreciate

[@nickm8494]

Carpenter/Joiner here, I pretty much agree with all of your talking points! I've used the Tracer pencil for a while now - you're right it does grip in the holster a bit too much at first, but with repeated use it wears down and becomes smoother. The Tracer kit I bought recently included a marker pen and a multifunction tool for scribing etc - which is a great idea in principle but a bit of a faff to use. Tools I find very useful (these might not apply to the bench woodworker but it's good to get a real world perspective) : 1. Trend Digital Angle Finder - a bargain for the price; great for calculating mitre cuts and finding rake angles on staircases. 2. Stanley Combination Square - probably the most useful marking and measuring tool a carpenter can own - buy the trade quality yellow one not the flimsy black one. 3. Triton Whetstone Grinder/Stropper - basically a more affordable version of the Tormek. Probably a bit much for a beginner woodworker but if you use chisels and planes in anger as much as I do then this saves a lot of elbow grease! 4. Thorex Nylon Hammer - very useful hammer with replaceable heads of varying hardness. Softer heads for tapping joints together, white head for fitting pvc beading, harder head for use with chisels. 5. Fluke Voltage Detector - Literally a life saver and also useful for fault finding - when kitchen fitting or doing general DIY, tap on a socket or cable and it will light up red and beep if AC is detected. Handy pen style, always tucked in the work-pocket next to the Tracer... 6. Thermos Mug - after many apologies to customers for breaking their nice mugs I now ask them to put the tea in one of these!

[@startmaking1]

Sorry for the delay in responded. What a lovely and detailed set of suggestions. Thank you. Great info for anyone reading.

[@drewmarsham6735]

Hi as someone relatively new to woodworking I love these reviews and opinions. It’s a great idea providing the links so we can look at pricing and other reviewers before buying. Well done keep up the good work

[@startmaking1]

Thank you for getting what I am doing. I really appreciate it.

[@plasticcreations7836]

Great video that will help me if I get back into woodworking. Completely agree with you about not being led by other people. For me with the pencils, a standard clutch pencil works fine. The reason why the lead breaks is that most people extend the lead out too far.

[@startmaking1]

You are spot on about the pencils. Thank you for commenting.

[@Ojja78]

Pocket holes are an amazing joinery technique. It's incredibly strong and that's what's important in practical woodworking.

[@startmaking1]

100% agree

[@Locane256]

These are great tips! Thank you for doing this video, I bought most of the stuff you listed here after being frustrated with worse versions of things like the pocket hole jig and center hole drill bits. Cheers! 👍

[@startmaking1]

Thank you very much for such a nice comment.

[@aaronwinter447]

Ive reviewed construction millwork for 15 years. When doing 200+ kitchen/bath units in a condo development, anywhere a pocket hole works without being a structural issue and will be hidden: a pocket hole is used. Lots and lots of hidden pocket holes without issues.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you.

[@6panel300]

I buy cheap pencils from poundland, they do the job, cheap to replace. As for a holster, it's what ears were invented for ! One of my most used tools is probably my 25ltr compressor, from using it with a blow gun to air nailers, staplers, spray guns and automotive tools it is a godsend. So much so went it packed up I bought a replacement within days. Great video, keep up the good work.

[@startmaking1]

lol, I used to use my ears but they are ridiculously under designed for the job. I hear about compressors a lot, they seem so versatile. I am being very disciplined with what I fill the new workshop with. I really want it all but after a table saw, a compressor may be second in front of a band saw and large router table. Thank you for the feedback, appreciated.

[@michaelwillson6847]

👏👏👏👏 ok ave only got to tool 3 and your rant about pocket holes I'll come back with another one at the end but had to jump in now on this. You are so right. I saw pretty much exactly what u said in another video wee while ago pocket holes used in the right way can be very helpful like u say drawers plywood connection but don't try build say a table base with them. Again back shortly just wanted stick this in the now before forgot. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👍

[@startmaking1]

Hey Fella. Thank you, That was a very impromptu rant. I get so cross with people online trolling beginner woodworkers. Don't get me started on the dovetail police. Pocket holes lead me to trying larger projects with confidence and now both my daughters have lovely desks. Could not have done that without them. You are right through, time and place.

[@michaelwillson6847]

​@@startmaking1 couldn't agree more. Think was a well done rant though was needed. As u say we can't all know how to cut dove tails or have the tools or skills to do other joinery but we're learning so it's way to go but yea done right.

[@zapa1pnt]

@@startmaking1: Absolutely! There is no right or wrong, only results. If you get the result you want, great. If you don't, then you do it over a different way. Live and learn what works for you. 😁✌🖖

[@startmaking1]

@@zapa1pnt agreed

[@andrewmcnary2287]

I like and subscribe to every woodworker I come across. Thank you for making this video!

[@startmaking1]

That's a lovely way to support the community. Thank you

[@macdelttorres3366]

Thank you for braking things down to my level…. Haven’t worked with wood for over two decades, this is helping me

[@startmaking1]

Hi. to be honest I do it because it is around my level too. Enjoy your woodworking. I bet it will be like you never put your tools down.

[@YTubeSDD]

Thank you for your rant against gatekeeping.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Sean. Thank you for watching and for commenting. In all honesty I should have done it sooner. It has bugged me for a long time but felt the channel was not big enough or established enough to get involved.

[@jk_22]

Nope, if you weren’t born with the ability to do mortise and tenon joinery and hand cut dovetails, then you have no business even looking at a piece of wood But in all seriousness, thanks for speaking up

[@startmaking1]

Haha, love it. Sums up most of the worst people in Facebook woodworking groups.

[@danielbackley9301]

@@jk_22 I hope that this comment is sarcasm. I too find the gatekeeping that is all too prevalent in most hobbies to be nothing short of counter-productive and discouraging. Far too many beginners give up on the hobbies and crafts because of the constant criticism that far too often is unnecessary and even worse unwarranted. After all we all started out making mistakes and then learning from them

[@joshwalty9408]

Pocket hole joinery - The "Dry Pour Cement" of Woodworking. 😆 Thanks for a great video! Love the advice and the positivity. Much appreciated. Now off to get a Kreg pocket hole jig.... 😀

[@startmaking1]

Very true. Thank you for the nice comment.

[@ReferenceFidelityComponents]

Iron on edge banding I’ve always found unsatisfactory. Now I cut thin strips of wood more like architectural veneer of a decent thickness and bond in place using fine panel pins to hold whilst gluing. Japanese pull saws are fantastic to use. The ones with a firm spine are especially good for jointing. Flush cut versions are invaluable and general cross cut ones cut very rapidly. I have a small collection of them. Sharpening stones are vital. Don’t skimp. Most useful are the double sided diamond stones. You need to do spend £30 to £40 for a good one and remember to use honing solution which prolongs the life of a stone and prevents overheating of blade tip which can ruin an edge. Forget pencils for fine work. Buy a marking knife and use templates or workpieces themselves as joiner rods for exact marking out. Pencils are a rough and ready solution and I mostly use traditional carpenters pencils. Set squares….quality doesn’t have to cost but make sure they are square as many are not! Electric panel nailers (21 gauge) I find useful but nothing decent is cheap. Spotnails are good but expect to pay about £200. Money well spent. Quarter inch routers are the way to go unless you need a heavy duty one. Buy dewalt or makita. They just last, are well made and both makes offer a combi pack for trimming and with a plunge router base. Excellent tools. I could go on but won’t. Just sufficient to say think hard about how regularly use a tool or will need to, buy quality every time remembering it doesn’t need always to be the most expensive.

[@startmaking1]

Great comment, thank you. Love to hear from people with experience who dont mind taking the time to give some good, solid feedback .

[@Ocean-blue]

It’s strange how pocket hole joinery is hated by some woodworkers when many traditional joinery often has dowels ( sometimes exposed and in contrasting wood) You can use wood plugs to hide pocket holes (matching or contrasting) and gain a mechanical benefit in many applications..

[@startmaking1]

I agree. And sometimes you just need something that gets the job done.

[@poconojoe90]

Lint free shop towels And paint surface prep with acetone, denatured alcohol, etc.

[@startmaking1]

You would not believe it but I actually used as non lint free rag on osmo oil just this week and am still kicking myself. This is a video that could have helped me so there must be other people.

[@HermannKerr]

I have rectangular sheets of sandpaper. Now for hand sanding that is the way to go and for quarter sheet sanders (ya that is what I have). I have an random orbital sander so I will check that stuff out. I might not agree on a lot of your ideas but I like your videos because many times you talk about things that I haven't though about.

[@startmaking1]

If we all agreed it would be a dull place to be. Thats my opinion anyway. I have learnt more from people in the comments than all the videos I have ever watched. Mainly people offering advice and telling me a better way. I will take it. Thank you.

[@stephencapewell2900]

Nice video well presented with constructive observations Very helpful. Thank you

[@startmaking1]

Thank you very much Stephen.

[@Fishingwithdave2024]

Been looking at the pica and all the others. Thanks to you ik what way I'm going. Pica for the win

[@startmaking1]

I love mine. Have just bought the propelling version.

[@katimetsaots6087]

I can't remember in which video you recommended the self-centering drill bits for hinges, but I so want to thank you for it! I could not find these in my small town, but my friend found them in a bigger town and even got a set for himself. Kind regards from a beginner woodworker in Estonia, you make a difference with your knacks! And I'm so happy about your new workshop.

[@startmaking1]

Oh, you are very welcome. And thank you for reaching out from Estonia. I saw your email by the way and I will reply I promise.

[@ScarletEyeMoon]

Thank you for showing me this, I love the self centering bits, I didn't even know there was such a thing, I could have used this a billion times.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Bron. This was me not so long ago. The cheap ones are ok in a pinch for once every 6 months or so use. but for regular I would go for the pricier ones. The engineering is night and day different.

[@ScarletEyeMoon]

@@startmaking1 Thank you, yeah I am definitely going for the bosch ones

[@MrImmers]

I hate pocket holes... But your section on pocket holes is spot on, it is the reason I subscribed.❤

[@startmaking1]

Thank you so much. Glad to have you aboard

[@RazakelKairo1994]

13:27 Heck, this applies to a lot of things in life honestly. Should see the shite I've seen from people tracing artworks to understand some of the lines said artworks have placed. Truth is, there's a surprising amount of people whom get a certain understanding out of it. They then apply that knowledge (keyword) to their lovely creative projects. So I love your realistic view on these things. And its pure bonefied logic too. If pocket holes work, jig or not, the ultimatum is that its a tool and you're your own master and decision maker to use them. Stand proud on that one.

[@startmaking1]

Could not agree more bud. Thank you.

[@ThatLadKev]

11:56 I've used the Trend Pocket hole jig for years now and found it to be excellent. More value than the Kreg which I've always been turned off because of the use of plastic. I've ever used it beyond it's stated use (on 2x4s in the jig and larger pieces by separating the pieces and using an a freehand/clamped tool)

[@startmaking1]

Thank you.

[@donscottvansandt4139]

Awesome info! I've got a couple what I hope are going to be expensive shadow boxes built except for the henges . This is what I need to finish them.

[@startmaking1]

Thats great news. Thank you for the comment.

[@royalt9863]

How have I not found this channel sooner? Really quality stuff!

[@startmaking1]

Good to have you here now. Thank you

[@tonyminehan2386]

I hate sanding, so what I use is a psychotically sharp plane iron in a hand plane, with that, I can get a super smooth finish, no sanding needed. The one draw back is, you must keep the iron sharp, better yet, have a second iron and when the plane stops cutting, even slightly, change the iron over. No dust extraction needed 😊

[@startmaking1]

I ma trying to aspire to that. My planes need a little more dialling as when they are sharp enough they sometimes dig in at the corners so I need to take the corners off a tiny amount. It's all a learning curve.

[@Nalski2007]

Keep doing what you're doing. Just discovered your channel today and I really like your honest style. Easy on the earn, no nonsense and no product placement. Thanks. Subbed.

[@startmaking1]

Welcome aboard. And thank you. I try to keep it that way.

[@Polyhive]

I have just managed to make a carcass for a cabinet I am making and pocket holes are a major part of that success. My first real success!

[@startmaking1]

Well done. Thats brilliant. There are plenty more to come now.

[@RCCraigoOnline]

I subscribed just for the comments on gate keeping. Woodworking is a hobby and a profession, and the level of skill is extremely broad. Pocket holes are good. Are other joints better? Absolutely. But that doesn’t make pocket holes any less good.

[@startmaking1]

All very true and thank you for subbing.

[@MildarValsik]

By all means have fun with the pocket holes just not my style yet on thicker wood I might if it's in something I'm never going to see. I think if I was going to recommend something as a thing I wish i got sooner would be a respirator. I haven't got into dust collection yet as much as i should. Yet starting to learn there is uses for the saw dust and it will make the extra electricity cost worth it then. However a good respirator is still extremely useful for many other projects.

[@startmaking1]

good advice on the respirator for sure.

[@bryanwillis5149]

I would like to compliment you on your insight and your guidance to beginners. keep up the good work.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Bryan. Thank you so much. Very much appreciated.

[@rickbrewer8507]

Absolutely save up and buy the Kreg pocket hole jig. I started with a Wen jig that got the job done, but often had tear-out. The Kreg makes cleaner holes and other nice features that make it easier and faster to use.

[@startmaking1]

Could not agree more Rick. Thank you. Night and day difference in my experience.

[@simonblooddevay]

Great video, thank you. Ref: the right-angled drill adapter, the power is "transferred" through the attachment. To aid memory, think of the "Transfer Box" on a 4WD/4x4 Vehicle! ;)

[@startmaking1]

Of course. I should have known. Thank you. And thank you for your kind comment.

[@bobbrock41]

The right-angle drill attachment. What if you need to actually drill a hole rather than just drive in a screw?

[@startmaking1]

I have used the dewalt one for that purpose. The drill bit was a little lose but it worked. I used a counter sink bit as it has a hex attachment that slots into the drill attachment.

[@jaycee7338]

Just found your channel, this video is excellent. I'm a beginner & I've found it really useful. Thanks 👍🏿

[@startmaking1]

That makes me happy. Thank you.

[@anthonygriffin3147]

I think you're doing a great job on theas videos very informative and funny for some strange reason I watch your videos all the way through 😂😂 keep up the good work

[@startmaking1]

Hi Anthony. You may be the only one as I tend to go on a bit. You wouldn't believe how much I cut out to get it down to this length. Thank you though. To make something and have even one person watch it in its entirety is very fulfilling. Much appreciated.

[@zapa1pnt]

@@startmaking1I always watch through. I like your angle on things.

[@startmaking1]

It is always appreciated. Always .

[@jeffhatcher6585]

You need your own closed FB group. The bearded Viking has one, and I’ve NEVER seen a critical comment amongst the group. It creates a place for learning and encouragement

[@startmaking1]

You are spot on and I love how bearded viking has brought a load of people together. At the moment time is so scarce as I am juggling this and a full time job. But if this was ever to become the main job, I would love to do something like that.

[@poconojoe90]

Nicely done! Keep producing product reviews and I’ll keep watching.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Joe. Thank you for watching and for commenting. I have read all your comments and tried to reply to most. Just wanted to say thank you. You currently hold the record for most comments on a single video on the Start Making channel. From a makers standpoint I am very grateful. The level of input is much appreciated and taking the time to throw out so many cool ideas is also always welcome. The channel may not always do review videos, as I like to throw in beginner builds and shop upgrade projects but when I make them I love the response so please stick around through the videos that may not hit home perfectly for you as there will always be one that will in the works.

[@MarkEllis-s8e]

Well said for pocket holes i use them when i can and im happy with the results. And as long as im happy thats all that matters😊

[@startmaking1]

Spot on. Well said.

[@johncarne4884]

Great video man agree with you on everything you said hultafors for a nice deep hole pencil that’s more like a classic carpenter’s pencil been using it a few years along side the pica.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you John. I have just bought the pica propelling pencil and I have to say with the HB leads, that one is a good all rounder.

[@BrainFizz]

Ive been using Picas since about 2016… and in that time I’ve found myself using them less and less . they start off a tight fit in the holster, but after a while those little fins inside the holster wear to the point the pencil just doesn’t hold… and you loose it. For wood working they’re a total waste of money, regardless of your skill. The stock leads are too soft for any thing other than scribbling nots on plasterboard or marking out first fix. For woodworking they brought out the hard leads, but the tips still dull to quickly for any real accuracy so you end up sharpening them all day… and since the sharpener is at the bottom of the holster its a real fan. Tracer brought out there’s, and the little green ends fall of. All of the brands also use the same Chinese mechanism in their own plastic shell after a while they part ways and the whole thing falls apart. That said, props for being just about the only “5 tools i wish i had to start with” videos to touch on sharpening….. not a fan of the veritas - too complicated for me, the trend guide has a wide brass roller too, and a simpler set up - although there’s no options for micro adjust or cambered irons like the veritas.

[@startmaking1]

Again, great info . Thank you. I will keep an eye on mine to see how the wear and tear affects it. No issue with the leads yet but then it does sound like you use yours more than I do. I was worries that the Veritas honing guide was complex but I dont tend to use many of the settings, I use just the one for standard angles and then it is just 25 or 30. I dont even use the camber on the wheel for the secondary bevel as I would never remember to reset it. The Trend guide does look like a good option. I love sharpening and helping others with it. I think is is the one thing that when it clicked I felt a weight lift.

[@BrainFizz]

@@startmaking1 if you can sharpen, you’re already ahead of most so called “influencers” On KZbin.

[@startmaking1]

It's hard to get it right but with practise it finally clicks. Though, I still use a guide, freehand was way too hit and miss

[@Algardraug]

I have a small pocket hole jig like in the video from Trend and it works great! I can see how the expensive one is much easier to work with though. But if you're a beginner and only making the occasional cabinet the small one is just fine imo :)

[@startmaking1]

You are right. Use whatever you have.

[@ninj3x687]

I’m a fan of wooden joinery & that said, I will use pocket holes wherever & whenever appropriate. Not every project or joint needs anything beyond a pocket joint. One can easily hide them with dowel plugs(love my plug cutting bits).

[@startmaking1]

That is very true. I am looking at plug cutters now. Good tip. Thank you

[@ssao0000]

Thank uou for your view on tools. I've something to share: my dad went to a trady school in the 30"s, learned how to file ballbearings. His life toke him to airplanes. But before he unexpectedly died he told me a lot about tools. Later in my life i met a technical designer with woodworking as "hobby". My dad taught me metallurgy and his replacement taught me tools and precision. Both said cutting down a decent brand tool for an inch, file/grind them roughly and then sharpen them. 50years on I still use the 40mm and 20mm plain steel Nooitgedagt.

[@startmaking1]

Hi. You're welcome. Good advice is hard to find and your dad sounds like he had it. Sounds like it still serves you very well.

[@catabaticanabatic3800]

Have had a set of those self-centering bits for many,many years. They are so handy. They're made for countersunk holes but can be used with non-countersunk holes also-with a bit of care and the appropriate sized bit.

[@startmaking1]

Agreed. You are right, it is a little bit more fiddly.

[@ianmurray3820]

Hey Mark, don’t know if you use pallet wood for anything but if you do you might want to check out this mall punch. ( Air Locker AP700 Heavy Duty Professional Air Punch Nailer/Nail Remover/Nail Puller ) It works a treat, just watch for ricochet’s ) I bought a hyundai compressor ( Hyundai 50 Litre Air Compressor, 11CFM/100psi, Oil Free, Low Noise, Electric 2hp 230v ) really quiet and quick to pressure up.!! It does the mail punch, makita nail gun, spray gun’s no problem. And is so much quieter than my previous piston type unit..!!!!… just a thought..👍

[@startmaking1]

Your timing is so apt. I picked up my first pallet this morning. After much deliberation., Was planning on using it to clad a part of the wall in the workshop. I have seen these nail removers and really want a compressor long term. but the list is so long at the moment I really have to start with a table saw and choose wisely thereafter.

[@chriscunicelli7070]

Liked what you said about the pocket jig. I recently bought one but haven’t used it yet.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Chris. Thank you very much. If you are yet to try it I don't think you will be disappointed. It opens up a nice easy way to hook larger pieces together and for draws it is very handy.

[@baddog4347]

Great positivity for beginners, one thing I would add is you can buy a small pocket hole tool like you showed but buy a good one from kreg, sometimes you need to take the jig to the project instead of a stationary jig 🤷🏻‍♂️ I personally use both all depends on what I’m building 👍

[@startmaking1]

Hi Bad Dog. Yes and yes. You are spot on. I tend to plan little to not at all and that tends to lead me into situations where I missed a hole or change my mind and need an extra shelf or something and there is no way that the huge Kreg is getting in. I believe the previous model had a part you could take off and use. But getting into the tight spaces is the only reason I keep the small jig around.

[@baddog4347]

@@startmaking1 yeah I have two of the small jigs one regular and another that’s an HD version for larger projects, I went with the masca version for my stationary unit because it was all aluminum with no plastic and it’s great, but thanks for responding 👍

[@startmaking1]

I am very jealous of the Masca one. I love the look and how robust it seems to be. Sadly in the UK I was really struggling on availability and price when I was shopping around. Would have been a tough choice if I could have found it. Though, overall I am very happy with the kreg, although first hole ever drilled the tip went through the wood and the plastic of the base, oh well.

[@mburke1211]

Great presentation. You earned a subscriber. While I’m still a novice, I have purchased most of the tools you presented., and I agree with your assessments. Good stuff all around!

[@startmaking1]

Hi mburke. Thank you very much. You are welcome aboard and in good company. There are a ton of people starting their journey and in the early stages, much like myself. The comments are in the most part positive and very informative, especially from the experienced guys. Comment as often as you like, as questions whenever you need answers and my email is in the about section of the channel. Im in no way an expert but always happy to help.

[@MKWHD]

Great tip of the centre drill bits

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. They still get sop much use and the better ones are working flawlessly.

[@MKWHD]

@@startmaking1 I have bought the better ones but I have yet to try them out. But they seem great.

[@yficfic8352]

Strange, I exactly did all the same mistakes. Lesson learnt for me : low cost tools are finally expensive, you have to by another one... Thanks for the video.

[@startmaking1]

Hi. It seems that a lot of us take a similar journey. I hope some of this helps. Thank you for watching.

[@simplyphil.photography164]

great tips and links in Amazon UK and the USA, lve looked at a couple, might try, thank you

[@startmaking1]

Hi. Thank you so much. Hope that it helps. And thank you for watching.

[@teacheme]

Thanks for reminding me about the angle driver. I've been meaning to get this for a while now but kept forgetting. DeWalt rules. I agree with your comments about "proper" joints. Not everyone can make dovetails or finger joints so, as you said, do the best you are capable of doing. BTW, the Tracer link is not for the set any longer, had to get one from Toolstation. I've said this before, but I could not live without my DeWalt impact driver. As for hand tools, I'm surprised at the number of times I reach for my electronic calipers especially when I'm trying to figure out screw sizes and wood thickness. Much easier than a ruler when your eyesight isn't what it used to be.

[@michaelwillson6847]

Couldn't agree with this more.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Costa. Great to hear from you. You reminded me that I have not replied to your last email. I will. I think that the Dewalt angle attachment looks to be around £10 cheaper than when I bought it. That said, it is still priceless at the cost I laid out. Just one of those tools that does exactly what I need and well. I really liked the tracer pencil and if I was clipping it onto a thicker apron band or belt then I could get past the fact that when I pull it out it takes the holster too but I always put it in my pocket clipped to the side and I got really cross with it. Good pencil apart from that though. Not sure what is happening to the link, the US one is single and the UK one takes me to the set. Maybe it only works some of the time. It's all witchcraft to me.

[@startmaking1]

Don't worry Costa I make something silly like 10p for each item bought. No worry at all. Plus I don't ever want anyone to think that they need to buy through my links. Especially if the price is better elsewhere. They really are just there to guide people.

[@DirigetDeus]

Excellent! Totally agree with everything. I guess I’m doing it right, as I have most of your recommendations. Especially the Veritas honing guide, just got it and it works great.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Bruce. Thank you so much. I am glad too that I am not too far wrong with my opinions. Cant always agree as woodworkers but it does seem like we all have fairly similar experiences especially early on. I just wish the veritas guide worked better on chisels without the extra outlay. Thank you for watching and for commenting

[@jamie7364]

I would like to say, regarding pocket hole joinery, that it often depends on the quality of wood. The MDF and plywood that I get in Zambia just doesn't go well with pocket hole screws - the boards split (and yes, I use proper pocket screws). I use pocket holes with pine and eucalyptus and find it great.

[@startmaking1]

That is a very interesting point Jamie. Thank you. I had not thought about the wood type.

[@Bari_Khan_CEng_CMarEng]

Power is translated. Surprisingly great video, and some good guidance. Much appreciated. Subscribed.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you and thank you again. Much appreciated.

[@squiddyathome]

Love the video Mark so encouraging - more please

[@startmaking1]

Hi Terence. Thank you very much. There are a few build videos coming this weekend then back to tools thereafter I think. Thank you for watching,

[@PartyOf8Please]

Hi, Mark! So glad to have found your channel, and thank you - I did subscribe! I read your bio and thought briefly how differently my shop would look today if I had started like you did and only bought what I needed, and not bought everything I saw just because I remembered my Dad using this and that over his 50 years as a carpenter in our small corner of the world. So, I’ve got a few tools out there that I might not use too often … I figure my kids can sell them on ebay when I’m done ‘going out back to see my therapist’!! 😉

[@startmaking1]

Hi, thank you for reaching out. I have to be a little honest, I do have a few boxes of romantic tool acquisitions. They may never see the light of day but they were too tactile to see thrown away. I love the therapy comparisons. this is the reason I started woodworking.

[@PartyOf8Please]

@@startmaking1 This was cheaper than therapy … until the garage was too full for vehicles, so we added a big building behind our house! It’s a nice place to just go and be quiet

[@startmaking1]

Very true. The reason I dont have music or Tv in the workshop so far is because I like the quiet,.

[@PartyOf8Please]

@@startmaking1 Agreed!

[@Nika_Scott]

My most used tool and a must have in any shop is a digital Vernier calliper. Preferably Mitutoyo brand.

[@startmaking1]

Great advice. Thank you.

[@melissasilver4014]

Thanks for some sound advice. Some good tips there and might look at upgrading my office mechanical pencil to something a bit nicer 😊 also, I’ve decided to subscribe. It’s nice to have fellow Brit for a change (I’m subscribed to a lot of American and Aussie makers).

[@startmaking1]

Great to have you aboard. Thank you.

[@chrisgriffith1573]

I am by no means a beginner, nor was I ever... I grew up playing in my Father's workshop at home, cutting things, making things... so by the time I took wood working seriously, there was very little in my mind that I didn't already know how to do. That said, I never wanted to use a pocket hole, but I tried it- got a jig, a lower level Kregg jig, and hated it! Hated it because the application of the pocket hole just took longer than making a proper joint which was stronger and better in every way, AND I had to buy the proper screws for pocket holes too! I don't think its not wood working, but, I don't recommend them either. I also do not want for a $17-20 pencil, I buy a pack of 20 cheap Pentel mechanicals, and throw them randomly all over my workshop... keep one on my self. Total cost there, $4.00. So far, I have only bought the one pack... ten years ago. I think I am down to about five pencils with lead... so it might be time to anti-up with a new pack of 20? Still cheaper than your refills? I am not trying to criticize you, your recommendations are probably catered to how and what you do, as my preferences are to mine, but there are differencing levels of quality standards that some jobs warrant, and some just aren't in need of the extra expense as you did point out. Thank you for taking the time to tell us about your journey!

[@startmaking1]

Hi Chris. Great comment. Great to hear other people experiences with some of the tools that I have come to rely on. I have to say that the Pica is not only to be judged on price. But I definitely take your point on the multiple cheap pencil purchase. It would, however drive me bonkers if I have loads of pencils lying around everywhere. I see some go the value of this pencil being that I only need one. Though, I may sing a different tune if I ever lose it. And I am mindful that my workshop/shed is only 10foot by 8 foot in size so I have far less places to lose it than other in larger spaces. I don't ever take comments as criticism. You are right we are all on different journeys and I am yet to build half the quality that I am sure you are producing .Also we work with different skills, machines, spaces. I genuinely appreciate just the fact that you have watched, and commented. And helped me to learn something .

[@ChelseaPensioner-DJW]

As you say you're not in any way a beginner, so the comment on pocket holing is just about your personal preference which is fine but doesn't fit with the vid. There are plenty of professional woodworkers who are building cabinets and wardrobes who swear by them, yes they are tradespeople where time is money. There are also the beginners who start with pocket holing, gain confidence and then try traditional woodworking methods. Personally I'll use pocket holing for large jobs were the joints aren't visible, ie painted over. And hand joints for visible joints items were people want to see the wood. Both are valid to me.

[@chrisgriffith1573]

​@@ChelseaPensioner-DJW ​ Fine for you. I don't really care if my comment "fits" it is what I have to say. I don't do things to cheapen my stuff, I do it to make it the best way I can with as little effort possible, and I see pockets holes as a step down, I am not a manufacturer. I make stuff for me, and I feel better about not using pocket holes. If I were making forty desks, I might see it differently But just one? There is actually time savings in NOT using pocket holes.

[@escos0410]

I still and always will Use my Yankee driver over a cordless when needed I get and agree with your comment completely In todays age the skill set just isn’t the same

[@agimasoschandir]

[I am by no means a beginner, nor was I ever...] Neither was Mozart a beginner...

[@sp-vt4je]

Some great advice in this video. Nice work!

[@startmaking1]

Thank you very much.

[@f1remandg]

Oh and the other tool that’s worth having is the Mirka? Set that decorators use, I bought one many years ago long tube to hoover or Henry that is hand used but takes as good as all dust away through mesh pads, really good

[@startmaking1]

I envy the workers with Mirka or Festool sanders. I see them on videos without masks on. Not sure I would trust it that much but they do look seriously good.

[@loktom4068]

Way back in the old days my beginer sander were a pair of corded Black & Decker entry model. Cutting my own sand papers reinforced with duct tape in the back to extend the life of the sand papers.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Lok Tom. I still use duct tape on the back of thinner strips for sanding rounded areas. But am glad that dust extraction and sand paper has come on a long way.

[@valentinassabaliauskas913]

When I was young I did use honing stones. But I needed to sharpen many more things than just woodworking chisels. So I ended up buying tormek. It's alot of money but one of tools that I am not sorry spending money on.

[@startmaking1]

Oh, I am very very jealous. I love the look of that tool. Maybe one day.

[@TeleCS]

Love your unbiased advice. Awesome mate. 👍🏻 Just subscribed.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you so much. That is very much appreciated.

[@grantwhite]

Just wanted to say great video and very encouraging/positive for the beginner woodworker. I have just subbed and look forward to going back through your vids. 👍👍👍👍

[@startmaking1]

Hi Grant. Thank you so much. I hope there are some videos that you like. Great to have you aboard

[@michaelwillson6847]

M8 bravo 👏 crackinh video and honestly think the legnth was spot on. Love the pull saws its on my list stuff to get in very near future. Didnt no avout the Amazon set my one as u no came from eBay was avout 8 quid and came with all yhe extra lead yellow and red and they are interchangeable. One thing a do find with my one is yea its bigger and wont go in shirt pocket but wuth retractable lead and for price a just dont think a could justify the pica seems great though. Ill get u one these ones send it down with your box goodies. Ps fingers crossed this flys. Should do. 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@startmaking1]

Thank you again Michael. I really cut a lot of my usual waffle out. People seem to be watching a decent amount if the stats are accurate. Good value for £8, I must say. I had earmarked the tracer set for you as there is no way I need all of the ones I bought. the cheapest without the holster is not great but the tracer is good apart from the stiff holster not coming out easily enough. It ihas a sharpie kind of marker which I will never use but I figured you might. Let's chat boxes when you have gotten the benches figured out one way or another.

[@michaelwillson6847]

@@startmaking1 yea no worries. Keep your phone close a may be InTouch in next hour or so if your free am going slab shopping. May need your eyes Yea views are looking good or from what a see anyway. Honestly a thought the time and knowledge you put into it was great ad of watched longer.

[@startmaking1]

@@michaelwillson6847 Just popped it on loud. This is exactly why we need a discord server. More eyes to show the slabs to.

[@michaelwillson6847]

@@startmaking1 yea deffo m8 well I'll be leaving mine shortly.

[@SaintFredrocks]

Make sure you use the protective pads when you use the mesh sandpaper, or you will be replacing your sanding pad after the hooks get worn off. Great sandpaper.

[@startmaking1]

That I great advice. Luckily on the Makita, they dont stick on without them so I was forced to.

[@philiprogers1626]

@startmaking1 For the edge strip I've use a micro or standard plane to lightly remove the excess, you do have to be careful though!

[@startmaking1]

I tried this a few times but over exuberance always seems to lead to a loss of veneer with one too many passes.

[@mpikas]

I find myself not really agreeing, some of this is the kind of projects, but I think some of this is about the attitude you approach the projects with: 1- Sandpaper, yea, if you're using it on a machine, just buy the best and get it over with. By hand, well you can skimp, but if you're really doing that kind of thing by hand, look into rasps, planes, cabinet scrapers... 2- Centering Drill bits. I just thought it was a cool idea, so I bought a middle of the road set early on. They looked like your cheap ones but worked like your expensive ones. Honestly I doubt I've used them 3 times (I can only think of once). Most of the time when I need to do hinges like in your example I use an awl, a much more useful tool, and I've never had a problem with centering things. 3- I don't know here, the Dewalt one in a package with some other goodies was the cheapest one I could find locally and I needed it that day. I haven't used it since I got a right angle drill in the M12 line. 4- I have a Kreg cheap one, and a fancy knockoff (lever action clamping, all sorts of adjusting, functions like your expensive Kreg but looks more industrial)- They serve a function, but I think I've used it 2x. If I can hide fasteners, I reach for my brad nailer- glue and brads, WAY faster, can be very precise and depending on materials 18ga brads sunk a little can actually be used on fine finished stuff and the holes disappear by the time you're done sanding and edging. I'd but a good brad nailer at the top of my list. I really want to get a 23ga nailer that shoots longer brads (23ga didn't exist or at least wasn't common when I was getting started) 5- I've done a lot of stuff out of plywood and other composites... I've never used edge banding. I've either hid the edges, mitered them, glued (brad nailed sometimes) wood strips to hide it or made it a detail. I've never even had the desire to used edge banding yet 6- no arguments with the saws... honestly get what you want/need for the applications. My "japanese" style saws are American saws in that style and I'm happy with them. 7- I have a similar cheap guide and the Veritas guide (I actually have 3 of them, they kept sending me stuff to try to fix problems). The cheap guide I like OK, I machined an aluminum block to help setup the different common angles. The Veritas, well I got 3 in a row that wouldn't hold the blade flat, I'd get an angled bevel no matter what I did. I ended up shooting a video of me setting it up for them to see that their guide was the problem. I meant to take them apart and machine them square but never got around to it. I'd put "learn to sharpen blades by hand well above purchasing something to do it. It's more flexable (you don't need the correct attachement for each different thing) and faster. 8- Honestly I use an old drafting pencil or a mechanical pencil for 90% of my marking, I've used the same 2 for maybe 20years... if I need something else it's usually the awl or a sharpie. I'd have accurate measuring tools (2 different squares, and angle finder, digital level, even calipers) WAY at the top of the list, and an air compressor would be quite high. Shop vacs and cyclone dust separators also improve quality of life in a shop quickly.

[@startmaking1]

Wow, great comment and to be honest we dont all agree and that is how it should be. woodworking is so diverse, I can only give an opinion from my experience, as little as that may be. I read all of your points and suspect that I will feel similar to a lot of them as my skills progress. It feels like you are more experienced than I am and it all makes sense if that is the fact. Pencils are a funny one. I get that any pencil can do a great job and I knew that the pica set would divide people and I think it is the gadget lovers who love the pica and more traditionalists who dont. But that could be wrong too. Agree 100% on the dust collection and as I am heading down that rabbit hole in a few weeks, I realise it is far more important that it seems. Take sanding for instance, the level of dust collection/extraction you have affects the life of your sand paper, so it will definitely affect my experiences. once again, thank you for the detailed comment and advice.

[@jaytrent62]

thanks for this, because of your video I bought my first self-centering bit yesterday. Quite helpful! (a self-centered bit sounds narcissistic, gotta say…)

[@startmaking1]

lol. You are absolutely right. It's the bit that says 'But what about me?'

[@guitfidle]

I have a Japanese saw with a backing bar that is absolutely wonderful for joinery. I like it SO much more than the western style backed joinery saws. For some reason, I never lose pencils. I still have the Staedtler mechanical pencils I got in college, 30 years ago.

[@startmaking1]

Wow. You must have set a record with that pencil. Mine last just enough time to blink. I am torn on which saws i like and it is not about function really. I just find a vintage western saw more satisfying to hold. Maybe it's the wooden handle, or the handshake it gives you. But for cutting alone it is Japanese all the way.

[@whiskeygrunt772]

I commented above along the same lines. I have 2 Pentel P205s that I have had for over 30 years. One is my shop pencil, the other never leaves my desk.

[@bhartissimo]

I've been using Suizan saws for some time now, but just recently bought the Dewalt angle driver and the Bosch self-centring bits.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Bart. I am still getting used to the saws. Sometimes I love them, others not. So it must be me. Definitely a better muscle technique though. The dewalt and centring bits are symbolic of my progression in my mind. they signify a shift from just buying the cheapest tool for the job to one that will serve me well for a long time.

[@bhartissimo]

@@startmaking1 That's pretty much the same for me. I started out buying cheaper tools and accessories. Some worked OK, others were a pain to use. I made the decision a couple of years ago to switch to tools and accessories that are more reliable, even if they cost more.

[@rkerby6375]

Great video! Well thought out and excellent presentation! Well done!

[@startmaking1]

Hi. Thank you very much.

[@jeniferbatucan3638]

Wooow,, thank you for sharing your knowledge big help to us firstimer buying tools

[@startmaking1]

Gosh, you are more than welcome. I am still considering myself a kind of beginner. Glad I can help a few people.

[@scottrhoades]

Great vid but I think you missed an important feature of the Japanese pull saws. It's also easier to keep to your line when you are cutting. When cutting, the part of the blade in contact with the wood acts like a fulcrum. When push cutting, it doesn't take much to drift off course because the power is being applied behind the fulcrum and small side to side movements are magnified and harder to keep under control. This is especially evident when the blade catches or binds in the wood, causing the blade to bend and go off course. When pull cutting, the power is applied after the fulcrum and the pulling action itself causes the blade to self center. I think of as the difference between pulling a trailer with a vehicle as opposed to backing up with one. When backing up, as with push cutting, small input errors can quickly get you in trouble and put the trailer at an angle to your line of travel. When pulling a trailer, small errors are self correcting. The trailer just follows the path of the tow vehicle the same way the blade of a pull saw will follow the path of the handle. This, not the thinness of the cut, is why I like using pull saws better, even when cutting tenons.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Scott. You are absolutely right, on the saws, that is. Well, all of it actually. My issue is I make long videos and a lot of the chat has to be cut. I had a lot of footage about the kerf size, demonstrating and such. And the angles of the saws. I always worry that todays viewers want quick and catchy. Thank you for reaching out and for watching in the first place. Much appreciated.

[@BrettDalton]

Edge trimmer router would be suggestion. It's super versatile for a bunch of other jobs as well

[@startmaking1]

Hi Brett. Great suggestion. Not long had mine and you are right. Thank you

[@TController]

Call a Spade, a Spade, & be damned! I like your style of tutorial. New subscriber!

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. I can only be me. For better or worse lol.

[@1steelcobra]

I'll note that Harbor Freight makes some pretty good self-centering bits that have the tapered sleeve for under $10 for a similar 3-piece set, plus pretty decent countersinks. The Dixon Reach is a good alternative for the Pica pencil at about $12-14. It even includes 12 refill leads.

[@startmaking1]

That is great value. I hope that they have the same build quality. It so, then that is a real bargain. I would love to have access the HF in the UK, Seems that they often have some great bargains.

[@Audiotechnical]

Really enjoyed every minute of that video! Thanks so much. Only the second video I've watched on this channel, and I'm so glad I found it. May I ask (and it's not specifically related to this video, but..) where do you get most of your standard ply from? Lawsons, B&Q, Selco, Fairhalls all do it (for what seems like similar prices), but do you have a preference?

[@startmaking1]

Thats really kind. Thank you. To be honest, if cheap is the criteria then wicked works fine but the quality is rock bottom from what I have found. Out of all the rest I dont have a preference. But that is mainly because I have a local timber merchant in my local town and they have a mid range ply that is definitely not perfect, the veneer is very thin and it is not perfectly flat but at the price it is great for workshop cabinets, jigs and stuff like that. I have never tried baltic birch and the pricey end of the market but that is mainly because I dont have plywood jobs that need it.

[@lespaulguitarmn1]

Liked your beginers buy video. Great ideas to present. I had sent Pica a request to put threads on their refill cap! At the cost procuction should of been tooled to have a threaded cap. I have one with a missing cap so the problem solved itself!

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. My Pica annoyance has resolved itself as during my shop build, I have misplaced it. That has given me a chance to test the others at length though. Despite the cap issues, I am still liking the Pica best overall. Now just to find it.

[@evertkleynhans2617]

Thanks for the excellent advice. Just wish these tools were available in SouthAfrica. The inport pricing and taxes makes them unaffordable☹

[@startmaking1]

I hear that a lot about tool prices over there. Must make this hobby quite expensive.

[@Birkguitars]

The self centering drill bit is the best tool I ever bought bar none. Anything from white blocks to hinges to any firm of bracket the screws always go in straight and exactly in the centre of the hole. And the best bit of Japanese pull saws is the amazing sound they make when you flick the blade and wave it!

[@startmaking1]

Hi Dangnabbit. You would not believe it but I actually had to cut the bit where I get a little mesmerised by flicking the blade and listening to the sound. Love it. The video was too long to include it sadly. Thank you for watching and especially for commenting. Much appreciated. I genuinely love those self centring bits. Game changing, especially after I struggled for so long with hinges.

[@liesluiten]

It would be nice if you leave links in the description to the products. Thanks. Great job. Ik like your polite way without talking without bad words.

[@startmaking1]

Hello. And thank you. I am a little confused though as there are links for all products recommended in the description just under the first paragraph. I have broken them into chapters. At least I hope that they are still there. And thank you for your kind comment.

[@liesluiten]

@@startmaking1 Thanks, i'm going to check! Thanks for repyling!

[@dc4046]

I think the word you were looking for was “transferred” 🙂 Great video by the way, thanks, it was very informative for a beginner like me.

[@startmaking1]

Yes, I seem to be worse with words the more I talk. And thank you for the kind comment .

[@ras8916]

Don't much like pocket holes in finished projects, but for making jigs, a good pocket jig is wonderful.

[@startmaking1]

Jigs, shop furniture and draws are the top 3 in my opinion. Thank you for watching.

[@lgmj1810]

I like your channel it's entertaining. I don't if you guys across the pond pay more then the States but the DeWalt right angle is only $25 here.

[@startmaking1]

Yes, for some reason it is always a little cheaper in the US. Maybe cost of production or something like that. At that price it is a real bargain in my opinion.