80 SERIES FAILED COMPLIANCE!! Will we be able to get this thing to Cape York? BREAKING THE BUDGET

Welcome back to another episode! Only 4 weeks until our Cape York Trip... Will we even make it? the 80 failed blue slip & compliance checks.. leaving us a huge BILL that totally blows the budget. We work through the stress of the to do list, can we do it?
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Lap of Australia, 4x4, travel, oz adventure life, off road, build series, 80 series land cruiser, Cape York 2024
#4x4 #travel #ozadventurelife #offroad #80series #landcruiser #80series #restoration #carproject #1hdt #capeyork #capeyork2024

[@brockstravels7586]

Gotta love a Grand Dad, we know stuff we do. We may be a little slow answering questions at times, but that is due to the brain being full. Its just takes time to rummage through everything to get whats needed.

[@ozadventurelife]

Couldn’t ask for a better person to work in the car with! He’s a legend and full of so much knowledge. Once in a lifetime experience 🙌

[@davidanderson9043]

Grand dads may be slow talkers, but grandads are quick thinkers. With age comes wisdom.

[@ozadventurelife]

Couldn’t agree more!!

[@maverick2242]

H guys, just following ya 80s build and repair, awesome work, probably already on the road now, its looking good. Something I always use, is Nulon (Shift Ya bastard) yes that is the name, its awesome of rusty bolts, but as usual spray the night before then again a hour for more before working on it, never had an issue after doing that. A couple of things I would do, to improve the 80s even more, the rear swaybar looks pretty beat, the 94 onwards is a bigger diameter, be more stable, I added a 30mm Superpro SwayBar upgrade to mine when I did my under body modifications! But ya could look at finding a factory larger one form 94 onwards, just be aware the later model front and rear eye to eye saddle brackets are wider than 90-92 60mm to 70mm e2e for later models! So beware if you get a Superpro upgrade, you need to order the saddle part number (SPF0984k/Bushes SPF1450-30K Also even if you dont replace that or do get a later factory one, def do you rear sway bar links! Superpro (P# TRC0039) highly recommend, makes factory look like twigs! The links are 20mm longer I think but way beefier, it flattens the trailing arm for better off rode flex, mate with some Superior Under Chassis bracket extensions also, this is the square U shape bracket your links to the sway bar ends connect to, these are longer as well, also something to do when lifting a vehicle (SUPERIOR SWAY BAR EXTENSIONS SUITABLE FOR TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 80/105 SERIES (REAR) UNDER CHASSIS (PAIR) - LCRRSWBBRK-XXX). I am not affiliated to either. Just what I use and researched when doing mine. again big improvement, for me its about on road drivability but also off road stability and flex, I have out flexed all out 80s in my club with a 2" lift, when I did these originally, even though others had a 3" and 4" lift, in fact the only truck that out flexed me on the flex ramp was a 6" custom GU SC ute, fully built and kitted out. But you will get better on road stability, one of the biggest improvements to drive quality I found and mine was pretty good before I thought. It wont push under you from the rear and wont hunt on hills, you wont get any binding here either, looking at what I can see in the video with a lift especially since its over the Blue sheet requirement, you will definitely want extension front and rear, binding will be an issue and cause problems, the front chassis mount links like yours I have them on mine too. The straight pins to chassis mount are 60mm e2e (rear of your front sway bar) these can pull out directly from the chassis nutserts, I have done 2 at the front end! The rear is solid as, but at the front it yanks the bolts straight out the chassis, its pretty common, with the earlier chassis mount links!, unfortunately no one does an extended link so either you need an H pattern extension for your lift, (2", 3", etc) or use a Superior Alloy block, its nice piece, but I wonder on mine if its too much, I have had issues with flex and gone back to stock up front for now with 3" cheaper steel H extension bracket for now. Just seemed to much tension and not sure if its my front Superpro sway bar, which is a different shape to the factory SW at the front only! Or its the brackets! I will try the steel H bracket. Or I will look into Antirock setup, via Rampt Customs when they have there's available again (Torsion bar setup) it improves drivability again of the 80 on and off road not cheap though. But def look at the links extension or you will have issues and its a minor and cheap upgrade, many miss when doing a lift. A flatter arm or bar in any link is the best setup esp with solid axles! Maybe a bit later down the road, but something I'm doing is a Rampt Customs 80/105 Landcruiser - Rear Panhard Riser, its a bit costly but cheap compared to other mods, but again it flattens you nice new Pandhard rod, I went superior like you also, its awesome, this will help it on up and down travel stay more centered and also improve road handling even more, read up on it at Rampt customs, this is a common mod in the US esp as they go such big wheels, but it benefits the 80s in general if its as good as they say, possibly the best thing you can do other than going 4link! (That's getting serious) This is a straight bolt on. I will be doing the front as well, but it is weld on, much lower cost , but if ya going to do one, why not the other and its a simple enough DIY or get a shop to do, pretty straight fwd. The list could go on, but to me these are the important things often overlooked on the 80, esp when lifting, same with proportioning valve bracket, you can get away with it at 50m or 2" but once you go higher its affects the braking, again cheap mod, but important. Sorry for the long post, hope its helpful, its never ending, I been going for years and it never stops, that's the fun part as much as driving and trips. Id would do some things different next time, in terms or order. Look forward to seeing you guys go to the Cape, ps your Grandad is awesome, knows his stuff, very good to have and also fun, miss working with my Dad on stuff like this. Enjoy. Cheers 🤘

[@ozadventurelife]

hey mate, thanks so much for the support. We appreciate your comment too so thanks for taking the time to give us that advice 😀 We did end up a heavy duty sway bar in. We got one from white line! We definitely needed it, especially to pass engineering in NSW. Still need to do the links though, something we missed but we’re aware of we just ran out of time before the trip so thanks for linking us up with those will have to check them out and get them ordered.

[@maverick2242]

@@ozadventurelife Hey mate, no worries, loving the build so far , Whiteline is also a great option, have those on my Suby, been awesome. All the best and look forward to seeing more of the 80s.👍

[@ozadventurelife]

White line is what we put in for the 80s new rear sway bar. We’re now reading back on your comment on the way home now that we’re having some issues after snapping the link bracket on the rear chassis (which we were expecting since we didn’t upgrade the links before the trip) - so once again thanks for your advice. We also had issues with the front sway bar mount on the drivers side where the bush sits. The welded plate that the bush sits on pushed through so we’ve got it packed up with washers at the moment until we can get home to fix it 😅 Steering & suspension was about the only other thing we didn’t touch before the trip, and we’ve had some worn out tie rods / steering bars so the corrugations have aggravated those issues now. The Nulon shift ya bastard will definitely be necessary to help undo the tie rod out of the shaft she’s pretty ceased in there 😂

[@maverick2242]

@@ozadventurelife Sounds like an epic trip, look forward to watching those episodes.

[@maverick2242]

@@ozadventurelife I cant remember on yours but sounds like mine (which is a 91 LC VX) you have the earlier sway bar extension, there are 2 versions! the straight pin the link bracket (T Type) base holes either side of the bushing pin, eye to eye of 60mm this is the earlier model, which is weak, (PN# 48822) it does require or should have 2 washers that support the bush on each side they have a raised chamfer for the bush to sit in, (PN# 48817B) then the other weak point in the chassis bracket bolted to the chassis underneath, the link pin uses a 13mm nut to securer to this bracket, they are notorious for ripping out of the chassis or pin breaking especially once you do a SWB upgrade, don't waste your time or money with this version! If staying with a factory type sway bar upgrade go to the later model chassis mount bracket and link/bush this looks like L shaped or I call it a dog leg link and both the link and the chassis mount it bolts too is much stronger and beefier! You will still need a extension bracket eg Steel H type (Roadrunner type) or a solid billet block eg Superior style. Make sure you get the right height bracket regardless this is actually important, you want that way bar arm that runs parallel to the chassis to be as flat as possible, eg as it was with the factory height shock setting! otherwise it will bind and it really loads up the front sway bar, this also reduces flex and you should get good flex with it attached. But it really tensions the swaybar if its over extended or you don't run an extension. The new part model, Id suggest get one from a wrecker or buy aftermarket! PN for the chassis bracket btw its the same eye 2 eye where it bolts on the under chassis rail 90mm, both versions are this measurement on the under chassis location. (PN 48824A (RH) & (PN#48829A (LH) Note the last 2 digits "24A is right side" (drivers side) " 29A is left" as they are similar numbers. The Fr SwayBar links are (PN#48802F) Note: the eye 3 Eye of the sway bar saddle and bolt pattern to the chassis bracket is 70mm so you will need the larger saddle for this (PN#48823B) Superpro also sell both saddles variants for this so you could also go that way, they are better made imo its what I run, but factory is also good though I haven't tried them, just from what others have in my club, cavet is I also run the 30mm Superpro Sway bars so it maybe different SB diam, just as a thought, but they are very helpful if you needed to check. You may need the saddle bolts possibly! Just check with Toyota or if you get off a wreckers then you can compare! Note the later dog link or L shaped link is stronger but also the benefit is no individual bushes, it lasts longer but you replace that link as a future note when worn out! No individual bushes, the bush is a fixed unit, like many control arms on later IFS cars for example, so will cost a little more, but save hassle and money over time as it will last allot longer and be stronger. Check out amayama dot com for more info they have diagrams of parts etc just select your model and go from there and it will make more sense, but in person the 2 variants of bracket and links will make sense when you see them in person, not comparable ime! For the rear, Get the SuperPro extended links to go with your chassis brackets for the whiteline bar, it makes a massive difference, the rear on mine is so dialed, on a standard style sway bar the links are the best I have seen or used. The only other option is a Torsion bar style, which I am looking at for my front end, but unless there is an imbalance to the rear when I get it done, I wont change the rear, it functions awesome, the links are so beefy and also longer than stock, no bind, improved flex, hasn't moved in 8 months, the front like yours has given me nothing but grief to date. It drives amazing on the road and seal, but I wasn't 100% happy until I did the later link upgrade and extension. Hope that helps. 🤘