86 Nissan d21. Overheating Ignition coils/Ignition Control Module's, fix

[@almagam2099]

Meant to mention that since this base model d21 has a coil and module "one for intake side and one for exhaust side" it can be one or the other or both sides that get hot! Hope that makes sense!

[@tristenkennedy5103]

The original ground going to the computer bracket where did it run to just somewhere inside the cab or did it run back to the negative terminal on the battery battery? Just noticed mines missing a ground. Where u Said there was an original ground on the Phillips screw on the PCM bracket

[@almagam2099]

Yeah. Ran it inside the cab. One end of ground to pcm bracket. And the other end of ground too body in cab. There should be a mounting point on the floor, directly too the right of the computer for the ground. But really, you can mount it anywhere inside the cab. There are several mounting points on the floor near the computer.

[@chadbiking]

I have a 87 Nissan with z24 motor. I'm not getting any spark from coils. Checked primary and secondary resistance on coils seem to be fine with that check. Any idea how to check crank sensor that is in the distributor or how to check modules?

[@almagam2099]

There's a tool, I think it's called a spark plug tester?! It can be used too test the ignition coils! The module's, the only way I know of is too use a multimeter too see if the module's getting power! Also check your fusible links! If they're fried, your module's and coils won't get any power! You can check the fusible links with multimeter as well!

[@almagam2099]

Sorry, the crank sensor is something that's beyond me!

[@chadbiking]

I assume the fusible links is the fuses in the fuse panel? They all check good if so.

[@almagam2099]

@@chadbiking they should be next to the batter on the passenger fender wall! The relay box will be next too them! I'm not sure about your year and model, mine has four fusible links! 2 brown and two green!

[@chadbiking]

@@almagam2099 thanks for the info! I will check and see if I see them there.

[@Thatwhiteboyintheholla]

I got a 89 and anit getting juice to my fule injector at all I can run a hot wire to it from the battery and have it work but can’t figure it out it

[@almagam2099]

@@Thatwhiteboyintheholla I've read up on this a bit on the d21 forum's. I'll try and find the exact page for you. But guy's have peeled back the harness for the injectors. I think the wiring splits off at certain points and then goes back too single wiring. I think they said that split off point becomes an issue 🤔

[@Thatwhiteboyintheholla]

@@almagam2099 I’ve been through all my wiring on my passenger side I think it’s to my drive side now the wire to the switch cause it’ll be pulsing when the truck is off and turn it on it’ll quiet

[@Hold_my_beer]

What symptoms did u have to do all what was said?? I have a 86 2.4 liter & at higher rpm’s or under load I it falls on its face if u baby the throttle I can get higher speeds but if I get on it , completely falls out

[@almagam2099]

I had quite a few components that either failed all at once or were already on their way to failing! Made getting the d21 running again really, really difficult and time consuming! I had similar idling symptoms as you, but nowhere near as bad! My d21 was slow as molasses and it would take forever to get up to speed! While at idle, she would sometimes surge or stutter! I'm fairly certain that part of the cause of this were the throttle body itself and the throttle body sensors! While uninstalling the throttle body and sensors (to clean and inspect them)...most of the parts literally fell apart on me! They were brittle and old! It's part of the reason I converted to the Weber carb! It doesn't use any of the throttle body sensors to run! In your case, I would recommend reading your computer codes too help dial in any possible problems! That way you won't waste any money replacing parts that are good! Also check all the vacuum lines! If there's any vacuum leaks, they could cause the engine too run poorly! Plus vacuum lines are very cheap and easy to replace!

[@Hold_my_beer]

@@almagam2099 I did all the above.. threw crank angle sensor malfunction, ignition malfunction, n one or 2 more I can’t remember off hand I have them written down. I’m trying to avoid nickel n dimming myself to hell if u know what I mena

[@Hold_my_beer]

@@almagam2099 it backfired so bad it blew my muffle apart

[@almagam2099]

@@Hold_my_beer best and cheapest route is hitting the local junk yard! Hopefully they have d21's with the same engine and throttle body! If you're able too find one, take all the sensors, fusible links, ignition coils and ignition control module's! They should all be a fraction of the cost of what they'd be at an auto parts store!

[@almagam2099]

@@Hold_my_beer damn!!!😯 I had really bad backfire from the tailpipe problems a week or two back! The cause: Bad spark plugs and fuel psi on the carb was too low, which caused the engine too run lean! Installed new spark plugs and increased the fuel psi to 5 psi! Backfire went away!

[@cesarramirezcabrera4826]

Tengo una nissan z24 modelo 87 y solo tiene chispa del lado de Emisión y del lado de ignición no tengo chispa ya cambie tapa y rotor y sigue igual alguien q me pueda ayudar

[@almagam2099]

First try switching the intake sude ignition coil and the exhaust side ignition coil! This is a quick way too see if the intake side ignition coil is bad! If the intake side ignition coil has spark when you switch it too the exhaust side then the ignition control module for the intake side might be bad! Let me know if this works!...

[@cesarramirezcabrera4826]

@@almagam2099 muchas gracias por tu atención. Me falto decirte q si me dan chispa las dos bobinas y aun a si solo del lado de ignición no hay chispa y los cables también son nuevos

[@almagam2099]

@@cesarramirezcabrera4826 ok! So we know both coils are good! It might be the ignition control module for the intake side that's bad?! If you have a multimeter, you can check the module for power!

[@cesarramirezcabrera4826]

@@almagam2099 ok muchas gracias lo checo y te digo q honda

[@octaviohernandez1914]

Por favor traducir a español

[@almagam2099]

Sorry! My Spanish is really bad!!!

[@rickevans2635]

This is inaccurate and false information. A bad ground at the specific location mentioned will not cause the ignition coil to become hot. That makes no sense whatsoever.

[@almagam2099]

I can only say that i found the info on this topic in the Nissan forums and cleaning the ground on the ecm was what worked for me! Before I read up on the subject, the coils and module's on the truck were getting crazy hot within a few seconds of having the accessories on! And they were both new! I switched back too the original ones and had the same issue! After cleaning the ground on the ecm and adding the welding wire as ground, the coils and module's barely get warm while the accessories are on!

[@gowinime9105]

Wat would rather be the cause?

[@Hold_my_beer]

Ground wouldn’t b my first guess , I ran a shop 15yrs . But I don’t know it all n maybe something I’ve never seen before. Usually a bad ground will cause whatever it is not to work, not get hot