89-99 Yamaha FZR 600 - Complete Carb Rebuild / Carburetor Clean Restore - FZR600

The Yamaha FZR600 has 4 carburetors that can be a bear to clean and rebuild. Watch as we go completely through this carb set and fully restore them back to factory specs and like new condition. Link below for a couple products that we use and products you'll want to have on you shelf.
Excellent Carb Comparison: • Chinese Unbranded Knoc...
Engine Gasket Kit: amzn.to/3sHQ2o9
Engine Oil: amzn.to/3dAvE4g
Oil Filter: amzn.to/2P8Nvpr
Air Filter: amzn.to/3ep5S2d
Carb Cleaner: amzn.to/3ekM2oz
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[@zackarymckay1375]

I have the same bike, and I gotta say there isn't a whole lot of instructural videos on it. Thanks for the help bro

[@MidNebraskaMotorsports]

For sure. Happy to help! Thanks for watching and the comment. Let us know if you have any questions or need parts: www.ebay.com/str/midnebraskamotorsports

[@laddermonkey111]

It’s it totally necessary to pull the carbs to just clean the jets? I have a bike thats just been sitting and guessing carbs are gummed up while everything else seems to work fine. Bike runs but won’t idle unless it’s choked all the time…

[@kendricksnearl3848]

I have a 250cc chinese atv and when I was in mud the other day I was trying to get it out while sitting on it mind you I have 12 wide tires on the back I tried to get it out a few times while sitting on it and it won't move while its in any gear do you think it's the clutches because before I got it stuck while riding it would be kind of hard to shift the gears do you think I need to get new clutches ?

[@stevenwhitehead7983]

The 2008 Honda rubicon 500 you tore down did you ever do a resembled video

[@dukerogers7637]

You forgotten to mention the mini donut gasket?

[@MidNebraskaMotorsports]

Oh shoot. I’ll get that next time. Thanks for watching and the comment! Let us know if you need anything! midnebraskamotorsports.com

[@keeganbender9560]

where would i get a new float seat, i recently got this bike with the carbs off from my friend and one of the float seats is broken

[@TruongLe-eo8kh]

Try ebay. They have sellers for these parts

[@JackFrohna]

So for my carb on mine could it possibly just be the bowls and jet? Just to clean it?

[@MidNebraskaMotorsports]

I guess I don’t know what the issue with yours is?? Thanks for the comment! Let us know if there is anything we can help with. Check out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmGklXmuoK-chck for more tips. And: www.ebay.com/str/midnebraskamotorsports for all your parts.

[@DaTWhiteGuyxD]

Awesome video, great timing for an upload. I just bought a 92 FZR 600. when i bought it the previous owner said that it had sat for ~7 years.. That being said, the carbs were a mess and several things broke during it cleaning process. Once I replaces all of the broken/missing pieces it started flooding Carb 1&2. could the Air/Fuel screw have something to do with this? Upon further inspection today I noticed the brass tube(people were calling it a "Choke tube" is broken as well... cant seem to find a replacement so I have to buy a Carb"2".

[@kkc3009]

That's usually called a bleed tube or emulsion/emulsifier tube. If that's broken and missing most of the piece then maybe it could cause excess fuel to get to that specific cylinder but it probably wouldn't overflow the carb. That would be a fuel tap or float issue. The float height needs to be checked per manual. Rule of thumb is to tilt the carbs until the float needle seats into place and JUST BARELY collapses the float needle pin. Then measure the distance from the bowl flange to the top of the float and check that against the manual spec. If fuel pours out of the carbs the float is bad or needs the tang pushed upwards towards the needle seat. (The hole where the gas flows in from and the float needle pushes into)

[@wOaHiMdEaD]

Do you happen to know what kind of mikuni carb this is? Id love to know what books you are referring too for floats and air fuel screw turns if you dont mind id love to have those books in my hand

[@jojofo5]

BDST32

[@michaelschuler7397]

Should the black vacuum actuated slide stay open while engine is running at half to full throttle or do they descend back down . I’m having a running problem at half to full throttle it’s bogs . Jest are clean

[@kkc3009]

Too much air or not enough gas. Make sure carbs and boots are all seated tight with no leaks anywhere. Check especially between the engine and carbs. If you have no muffler and airpods/airbox delete that will happen. You could try increasing the main jet size and or shimming the jet needle 1-2mm. If you do both you'll get a little more fuel delivery at 1/2 to full throttle. This should feed it enough gas to achieve higher revs without bogging. And yes it should be lifted up at least some at half throttle because of the engines vacuum created on intake stroke. You're either not getting enough fuel to the carbs or cylinders. Or there's an air intake leak somewhere leaning you out too much at higher revs.

[@michaelschuler7397]

@@kkc3009 thank you sir 👍

[@kkc3009]

@@michaelschuler7397 I've found downdraft carbs to be a pain to properly seat and tighten the rubber boots when the carbs are wedged in the frame like that with very little access to the clamp screws. These commonly have old dry rotted and cracked up carb boot joints going to the engine. It was a common hack to slop gasket maker over them when they got cracks causing intake leaks and lean conditions.l because it's a pain to change them. Eventually it starts sucking pieces of the old dry rubber to the intake causing bigger holes and making the problem worse. 🥲 If your engine speed and revs don't quickly sweep back down to idle after mid-high revs you could have excess air being sucked into the intake. Like if the engine speed "hangs" and slowly falls back to idle. May be a little less noticeable at idle and then worse at higher revs because the cracks will flex and open up to suck more air in. Seen it on 600 4s and especially on 1000cc & up 4s side and down draft carbs. Did you figure anything out? Those vacuum slides rise with engine vacuum from each cylinder and is actually one of the reasons why carburetors are synchronized to their corresponding cylinder. Each cylinder makes it's own different vacuum thus it needs the carb throttle plates dynamic synced to match. I bench sync most all my carbs and get minimal back popping because the engines run pretty well. Airbox and custom or deleted mufflers on most as well.

[@michaelschuler7397]

@@kkc3009 yeah I know what you mean about those boots . I inspected them and made block off plates to pressure test them . They seem in petty good shape without any leaks . I hesitate to put aftermarket Chinese rubber on as those literally last 2 years. They can’t make rubber for some reason . I think I’m going to make my own over the winter just need to get the shore hardness right on the neoprene mix and make some molds using the stock boots . I bench synced them and used a nice manometer to tweak . Anyways I will keep at it until I am happy but thanks for the tips 👍

[@kkc3009]

@@michaelschuler7397 they can't really make anything better than the original but they sure do like to improve upon what they stole from others 🤣. Anyways you could even make your own little carb boot joints. But since you pressure tested and got good results the ones that go to the engine must be good. No problem sometimes I actually help lol. But this bogging, it's still present? If you have the airbox removed and a less restrictive exhaust this can happen. It's happened to be with bikes I bought that had air pods and the pipes chopped just after the crossover or H section. Cured by increasing main jets and one or two sizes up idle jet. Remove epa or welch plug caps and back out the idle mix screws another half to full turn. This generally cures a bogging or can't increase revs condition if the bike otherwise starts and runs well. It's like hitting a limiter well before the actual limiter and then the bike will just bog. Is this what happens during riding or just while testing it in the garage or something?

[@kkc3009]

Not complete sorry. Did not show how to remove jet holder which it should be like the 1000s. Did not show how to remove the vacuum slide holder because you didn't remove jet holder. Did not mention how to bench sync so it's set up to dynamic sync. A complete refurbishing of the carbs would include a degang the carbs section.