89 Cherokee WJ Brake Booster Swap

[@nickguzik4363]

Just pulled this off after work in afew hours. Well worth the swap night and day different

[@Mhenson707]

Best video ive watched so far on this. Going to try this on my 87 comanche

[@YankeeCherokee]

Can't wait for the stroker build! Might put some thought into the swap, thanks Nick!

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+Joseph McUmber Me too. There is A LOT to cover. Still trying to narrow down all the footage but I'm looking at about 5 or so videos, some of them up to 40 minutes long. There will be plenty to watch, that's for sure. haha

[@YankeeCherokee]

+NickInTimeFilms Awesome sounds great! Haha will be checking the channel even more than often!

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+Joseph McUmber Every Sunday through November.

[@YankeeCherokee]

Sweet! Know what i'm doing sunday's now

[@rwidebrook]

Brake power greatly improved with this upgrade. However, my cruise control/CC didn't work afterwards. After much web-trolling, learned that with an automatic trans with cruise control, there are TWO actuator switches on the brake lever: 1),the brake light switch (as Nick shows above), and 2), a cruise control switch (mounted above the brakelight switch). This CC switch is a white nylon jobbie in a dashboard-mounted frame, and gets pushed away from the lever during the booster upgrade. I pushed mine back closer to the brakepad lever so that it's button is well depressed. Voila, CC is back.

[@NickInTimeFilms]

Is that upper switch used for the cruise control as well? I know there is an upper switch for the auto transmission computer, but mine didn't personally need adjustment after the swap.

[@scottbollinger3999]

@@NickInTimeFilms it’s actually for the torque converter. It prevents it from locking up with the brake depressed. Conversely if it’s out of adjustment it won’t allow the TC to lock up when it needs to.

[@ryanjeepman7364]

Looks like there's a nice bit of rust right where the two halves of the booster connect, may need to replace that in the future

[@samsil8873]

between the brakes booster and the master cylinder there's an adjustment to lower your brake pedal

[@NickInTimeFilms]

The adjustment rod is used to adjust the pre-load on the master cylinder. adjusting it too far will cause the brakes to drag or even blow out the mc so it shouldn't be messed with foe pedal position

[@zx8401ztv]

Well done :-D, sounds like its made a massive difference. If you have a spare brake peddle lever, possibly chop an inch or two out and weld it back up, if its a spare then it dont matter :-D. (No cardboard has been hurt in this episode of "stopping the jeep") :)

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+zx8401ztv Lol. I've been trying to figure out what causes the high pedal, whether the pushrod sticks out farther than the old one or if the small bend at the end of the old one keeps the pedal low. It's not a big problem, but more of a tiny annoyance that I may look into one day.

[@zx8401ztv]

+NickInTimeFilms Hmm Pity the bolts that sick out of the brake booster were not a tad longer, could have pushed the booster further forward :-(. Im sure you will defeat it, angle grinder and welder tends to work lol.

[@gravediggmn]

Im not sure on the wj booster, but the xj booster has an adjustable push rod in the booster to adjust pedal height.

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+Steven How is it adjusted, just a threaded rod or something?

[@gravediggmn]

+NickInTimeFilms If I remember right its the rod between the master cylinder, and the booster it self. Should just thread in and out. Worth a shot to try with out dealing with spacers.

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+Steven After a quick look, it would seem that pushrod adjustment is for getting the proper preload on the master cylinder so that brakes work properly; pedal position movement is only a side effect. Prob not the best way to go about it.

[@gravediggmn]

+NickInTimeFilms Yeah, im looking it up as well, seems you're right. Been out of the jeep game a while. lol. I did read a thread about stacking washers between the firewall and the booster. perhaps that could help.

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+Steven Poor mans spacer. haha. I'll have to see how far the pedal goes down when the drums are way out of adjustment and see how much I can space it before hittng the floor. That'll be for a day when I am bored. haha.

[@billwilliams6323]

I have an '89XJ 4wd w/ABS. Will the wj booster fit, if I get rid of all the ABS stuff? I will also be replacing brake lines.

[@iamthewulf]

Ill be doing with but with a 99 tj booster and ect. I have a 90 wagoneer limited with that bendix 9 abs system and fought with Chrysler for a month over their lifetime warranty. Edit: i used a 91 xj booster and master cylinder. Did you have problems bleeding the system? I bled the master cylinder and the whole system 3 times. Still feel like i have air in the brakes. Itll stop about halfway down and grabs when the pedal hits the floor or close too. I heard the non abs booster and master cylinders from the early era has issues with the rear proportioning valve that people just put in a "T" fitting. Any thoughts?

[@anthonycaudill8179]

Have you, by chance, pulled off the dust cover on the rod that extends from the brake booster to see if the rod is adjustable? I suppose you could cut the rod and weld it shorter to decrease the pedal height. Most vehicles that rod is adjustable, but apparently not on the wj.

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+anthony caudill It's adjustable but not for pedal height. It's used for getting the proper preload on the master cylinder so that brakes work properly, and if you thread it in too far your brakes will start dragging. Either a fire wall spacer or re welding the rod/pedal would work i think.

[@SalvagedCircuitry]

Did you happen to adjust the booster rod at all for this mod? I am eyeing a new cardone booster and master for a WJ brake swap in a comanche, but I have not found any guide on how to adjust the booster rod or if it is needed. Thanks.

[@NickInTimeFilms]

Didn't need to touch it from my junkyard unit.

[@TheAmericanUhate]

Have you done a ZJ rear disc brake conversation since this video? Seems like a near bolt on besides some slight trimming. Would love to know how that performs with all the upgrades you've already done with the brakes.

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+TheAmericanUhate I've been looking into it a lot recently because I want to ditch my drums. It's slightly more complicated because I have an older non C-Clip 35, regular 35's should swap with ease.

[@jeremyhanna3852]

​@NickInTimeFilms get hole axle out of zj it will be a upgrade for axle and bolt right in

[@TheAmericanUhate]

@@jeremyhanna3852 He did a D44 rear end swap on his already. ZJ 44's was aluminum if I remember correctly also

[@wlin1855]

Why doesn’t anyone ever purchase new boosters and cylinders?

[@richterman3962]

I did, they are all junk built to semi factory specs

[@maxwellkripak]

Hey Nick! I did this in my 89 xj that had the strange electric Bendix with the accumulator on the pass side, and now at like 30/40 mph coming off an off ramp I can barely stop with my pedal to the floor. Also just driving around the pedal feels a little squishy. Any suggestions?

[@NickInTimeFilms]

Was it a junkyard booster or new? Were the brake lines bled fully? Id you aren't getting any brake assist then maybe the vacuum diaphragm isn't working or you have a vacuum issue.

[@maxwellkripak]

@@NickInTimeFilms Thank you for the speedy response Nick! It was a new one, although from rock auto, and yeah the lines were bled. I can try to bleed it more. My xj does sound like there might be a vacuum leak coming from the EGR looking thing/area right in front of the booster. Is that deletable since it isn't really made anymore?

[@NickInTimeFilms]

The EGR can be blocked off if it's causing issues. Another thing to check is if your rear drums are adjusted. Loose shoes will cause the pedal to drop a lot before you get pedal resistance.

[@maxwellkripak]

@@NickInTimeFilms Thank you so much again Nick, I'll check in on these things and when I get an answer I'll hopefully be able to update this thread!

[@bluemancan]

Where did you get that 4.6 higher output emblem?

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+mike mcgee It comes in a flat color and you have to paint it. www.shapeways.com/product/9U7BSUF2N/4-6l-jeep-stroker-badge

[@bluemancan]

Bad ass, thanks man.

[@bigbuc32]

dammit now I have to wait till November? I won't say anything, I don't wanna be "that guy" lol. do you know if by chance the Wj booster helps on a Zj? 35's are coming before spring

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+Sean Barno LOL. I doubt the WJ booster would help much, looks like Zj's already have a dual diaphragm booster. As long as your drums are tight you should do fine.

[@Schmidtshowshop]

Do you know if the front brake caliper fittings on the Wj are the same size as on the XJ?

[@NickInTimeFilms]

Not a clue, didn't use any WJ Caliper stuff.

[@j.dominicpitre2533]

"some other kinda rather or other" HAHAHA