9 Things I Wish I Knew Before I Went Tubeless On My Road Bike

Setting tubeless up on road bikes can be a tricky process and there are a lot of mistakes that can be made. However, Sam Gupta has taken his years of experience as a mechanic to share all his knowledge on how to successfully set up a tubeless system on your road bike. Starting at the very beginning, all of these top tips for setting up tubeless will mean that hopefully you can get it done right first time round.
00:00 - Intro
01:00 - The Right Components
02:24 - Stretch Your Tyres
03:35 - Don't Forget The Little O-Ring
04:32 - Do A Dry Fit First
04:58 - Tools Can Help
05:36 - Correctly Adding Sealant
06:05 - The Pop Is Your Friend
06:41 - Pressure Is Important
07:31 - Always Carry The Essentials
08:19 - Outro
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[@davidnicholson6680]

I have seven bikes set up tubeless and I've been using tubeless on the road for almost five years. This video makes it seem like tubeless is more work when in my experience, it's less work. Get a cheap compressor with a presta inflator, when getting new wheels buy ones with solid rim beds (tubeless tape is the weak spot of the system), use Dynaplugs in the rare event of a flat and keep your sealant topped up. Do that and you basically don't have to think about your tires again until they need replacing. Also, the ability to run far lower pressures without risking a flat means dramatically more comfort, lower rolling resistance and noticeably better grip in corners. It's better in every way, and not just a little better.

[@jamescaunt2958]

Swapped back and forth a few times but finally settled on tubeless. The only reason for me is comfort. The crap state of our rural roads is massively helped by running bigger tyres and lower pressure. Its like sitting on a comfy chair. Ive had a blackthorn (still attached to its twig) deep inside the tyre and when i pulled it out the sealant easily and quickly sealed the hole. I have had no further issues with it. Theres always the risk of glass ripping the tyre (it has happened once) but a tube and business card will get me home. No system is perfect but i am now tubeless and sealant until they invent better run flat technology.

[@rangersmith4652]

I haven't gone tubeless, and I have no plans to go tubeless. Carrying a tube, even two, is easy with TPU tubes, and they weigh about as much as the sealant in a tubeless tire. I might be jinxing myself saying this, but I haven't had an on the road puncture since I got back to riding nearly a year ago. I do enjoy watching videos showing and describing all the faffing about tubeless users have to endure, which is why I'm here and why I haven't gone tubeless.

[@marcdaniels9079]

No faff when you have a good LBS

[@moorhead14]

I had used tubeless on mountain bikes for 12 years and never had a puncture that wouldn’t seal. So when I got a road bike that could run tubeless I decided to give it a try. In my opinion, the biggest obstacle is mounting the tire, but when I learned this trick it made all the difference. “Pull one side of the tire over the rim, but keep it pushed in toward the center of the wheel. Then start pulling the other side of the tire over the rim, while keeping that first side toward the center of the wheel. When pulling the second side of the tire over the rim, do the part near the valve last.” Mounting the tire like this makes it much easier. I’ve done about 5000 miles on tubeless. I’ve had 1 serious puncture, but still made it home. I know I’ve had many other small punctures, but they all sealed without me being aware of it at the time. Tubeless has allowed me to avoid the part of road biking where you are sitting along the road changing a tube.

[@andrewlabat9963]

I set up my SLR 1s with original 25mm Giant tires and Silca Ultimate and haven't looked back. No issues and have regularly run 75 psi, but I watched videos and took my time. Putting on training miles before putting on the 5000s, and new valves.

[@thegorillaguide]

The people who tend to love tubeless are the ones that approached it methodically and thoughtfully and get the right tools right from the start. There is nothing happier than the sound of a puncture sealing itself. Once you've cracked it you won't go back.

[@gtn3x87fk9]

I did. Now I’m sticking with tubes.

[@user-nu5fx6en9h]

Agreeee

[@andrewlabat9963]

I agree. Running 25mm and zero issues, even at higher psi..

[@charlesmansplaining]

What the Hell are you talking about? I have a closet full of tubeless crap. I bought everything from every brand. I gave tubeless years of chances to prove itself. I finally got it through my thick head that it is a shit option for road bikes. For the last year and a half tubes have brought back peace of mind and a shit load of free time.

[@richardggeorge]

So I got a used bike which has tubeless only rims (Stans Iron Cross wheels) and can't be f'ed setting them up tubeless so I am running tubes inside the tubeless tyres. It works fine....Ha ha 🤣🤣

[@jonathan_f2]

I really enjoy tubeless on my gravel bike with wider profile tires. Yet for road sizes (28c and under) I've leaned more towards lightweight clinchers paired with TPU tubes. Also glueless patches adhere very well to TPU material. You can easily fit 2 TPU tubes and an assortment of glueless patches with barely any weight penalty in your saddle bag. Also those Panaracer Agilest tires weigh even less in clincher form!

[@Z-u-m-a]

Really useful video - thank you. Been considering tubeless. To me the reduced chance of having to deal with a small/reparable roadside issue feels outweighed by the greater possibility of ending up with a much bigger one - which this seems to confirm.

[@Silidons91]

I went Tubeless, and went with Vittoria Air Liners. I have NO regrets. It CAN be REALLY HARD to get the tires on/off with the liners in them, but it has been awesome for me. I can run lower PSI, and my ride feels amazing. I have TWICE in the past year came home and realized my rear tire had literally 5PSI in it due to a puncture that did not seal in time/properly. I didn't even know it was so low! The air liners allow you to run-flat. I love it. I run 25c tires too.

[@craighenry7915]

Tubeless on the road for the last four year, and only had to use one beacon strip because i forgot to add sealant to the wheels past four months. I have tubeless wheels on four of my bikes ,and love it. Just remember to add sealant ever few months.

[@heliosans]

does it need maintenance? like change the sealant every 6 months? in motorcycle i have to change the sealant about 6 months, if not it would be sticky annoying as hell to remove them from the rim.

[@craighenry7915]

@@heliosans No,the sealant drys out over time. I heard that it could last six months,but I put some in every 3-4 months. Had no problems in the last four years.

[@glennoc8585]

And remove the tyres to clean out the dried out sealant otherwise youll be spinning an extra 100g + before the tyre wears out

[@glennoc8585]

@@craighenry7915 how he's y were your tyres after several tops ups😳

[@craighenry7915]

@@glennoc8585 Most the tires only last for two fill up,so it doesn't get to hard. At least on my road tires. Gravel tires last a least a full year,so weights a little more.

[@randyg8485]

Just finished 4,000 miles on a set of Pirelli P-Zero Race TLR 26mm tires using Muc-Off tire sealant. Zero flats riding here in southern AZ which is known for terrible roads and where every plant has some sort of thorn growing on it. I did have a couple of times where the bike and I got sprayed with sealant, but was able to make it home. Never in my life did I think is was possible to ride for week after week without getting a flat. I did find that the sealant dries out really fast in super hot, dry weather and the replenishment time should be cut in half. Muc-Off says to replenish every 4-6 months, but there wasn't much sealant left. I found 3 months to be a better interval. Also, watch the video where they test the sealants and you'll see why I picked Muc-Off. I tried Stan's in the very beginning, it doesn't seal very well and I had multiple flats....and a big mess. Can't recommend it.

[@Afrikakorps68]

Running tubeless for the 3rd season without no problems. At least 4 times, I realised I got a puncture only when back home, noticing some sealant sprayed on the frame. I got a spare inner tube with me...never used. I think it may be worth to try

[@jdmitchell3077]

I have mostly used Gatorskin tires. Last year I bought a new endurance bike, and have used GP 5000 with a tubeless setup. In the last 2 months I've had more punctures than the previous 40 years, I think. Yesterday I had two punctures in less than 30 miles. Plus, I had sealant all over me and my bike. Today, I ordered a pair of Gatorskins, and tubes.

[@stickymiky123]

Well I guess you're not interested in going fast. GP 5000 for me and not a single puncture in 2 years. But then I live in beautiful SE Qld

[@marcdaniels9079]

Gator skins are 100% puncture protectors. Ran them for 5 years all year with no punctures. But they are horrible to fit - thankfully never had to change a tube out in the road. They are very heavy and terrible for rolling resistance. I am going over to Tubeless GP 5000

[@jdmitchell3077]

@@stickymiky123 Sitting in a ditch, trying to plug a tubeless tire that won't seal, isn't going very fast. 😉

[@jerrysteinberg2445]

I couldn’t deal with tubeless. Almost impossible to mount tires onto rims. Got a few flats that didn’t seal, I had Stan’s darts but they only held if the tire was inflated to 30 psi. So I had to buy a new tire. Tubeless too much trouble for my road bike. I went back to tubes.

[@nicholasparry6859]

If you can't mount a tire on a rim.. you should stay off a bike lol

[@pinoyxbox]

I tried tubeless few months ago with conti gp5k TL and after a month of usage i got a nasty cut on my tire around 3mm and the sealant couldn’t do anything so i just set it up with an innertube until the tires are worn out and went back to using normal tires and innertubes. I guess my road condition is not ideal for tubeless setup. So many glass shards on the road!!!

[@jedi767]

Thank you for reinforcing my belief that tubeless tires on the road are FAR more trouble than they are worth.

[@gtn3x87fk9]

Exactly 👍

[@mrstrul3.]

I'm now looking at tubes with slime pre filled for when I end up replacing my current tubes, seems to be a decent middleground between tubeless henefits like closing up small punctures and the ease of installation and maintenance of tubes.

[@christopherwebb3517]

Yeah, sure. Tubeless tires are a lot more expensive, and they're a far bigger pain in the neck to set up, but once you get past all of that, you get a very, very small improvement in puncture protection. Plus, you get to show everyone that you're a serious cyclist. What's not to love?

[@markxkovacic]

Weak

[@vini20900]

🤡🤡🤡 i don't know anyone who switched back from tubeless on the road or on gravel. sure continue riding you heavy and puncture prone butyl tubes with narrow tires at t high pressure! it's what's always been working 🤡🤡 with enough sealant (Silca looking at you 👀🏅🏆) and a little air I hardly ever notice any punctures on a ride only when I'm home cleaning and pumping my tires. And the few that won't seal plugs do wonders. no co2 cartridge just a regular type Minipumpe is all that you need.

[@jordan1991r]

Got my first gravel bike after having road bikes. 40c tyres vs the 25’s that were on my road bike. Fitting a tyre is soooooo easy, I’m loving it. I’ve set it up tubeless a few days ago, so too early to comment on that side of it yet but I was so surprised at how easy it was to fit the tyre. The rest of the tubeless process went fine too, tyres seated not a problem with valves removed and a standard track pump

[@davesadrikcole6217]

For me, one step I missed was shaking up the sealant before pouring it into the tire. I always ended up with latex without the seal-the-hole extra bits.

[@richardggeorge]

But did you add extra glitter and navel lint first? 😁🤣

[@billkallas1762]

I've never felt the need to go tubeless. As long as I don't let my tires to become too worn out, I rarely flat. If I keep the rubber fresh, I'm liable to flat once in every 5,000 miles (8,000km). PS I never use tires larger than 25mm (and occasionally only 23mm in front) and tend to use pressures in the 90-psi range. (Which is too high for tubeless)

[@grmar1494]

To avoid flats, tubeless sealant can be put in the inner tube. I use this technic non tubeless tires and it works well. When I change the innertube, after 1 year in general, I can see the spots that were filled up by the sealant points where tube stick to the tire, and the is usually still the glass debri

[@gtn3x87fk9]

I did feel the need to try tubeless and tan them for a few months, but I went back tubes. Tubeless is just too much faff and too much mess. Oh, and I’ve tried putting sealant inside tubes but it didn’t seal so ditched that, too.

[@gtn3x87fk9]

@@veganpotterthevegan again, making unfounded assumptions. You really aren’t very bright are you? Maybe you need to get some red meat into your system as you’re clearly lacking something up top!

[@gtn3x87fk9]

@@veganpotterthevegan and you are jumping to unfounded conclusions because you don’t know what you’re talking about, so who’s really deflecting?

[@billkallas1762]

@@veganpotterthevegan What 25mm tubeless tire can you run at 90 psi??....What about 23mm?? Please respect the ETRTO guidelines limiting maximum tire pressure to 72.5 psi / 5 bar for Tubeless Straight Sidewall (TSS) or ‘Hookless’ type rims.

[@TheRickysee]

By the way, this is absolutely the most comprehensive tubeless set up for rode bikes video I’ve seen yet. Good job!

[@ebigarella]

agreed

[@takuan650]

Thanks for confirming my utter dislike for the tubeless nightmare. My bikes run very well on tubes and clinchers and in the rare case of a puncture it is easily and quickly fixed. I simply fail to comprehend why anybody would go through all this expensive and hideous procedure in order to get a tire onto a road bicycle wheel. I am wearing down a few sets of tires during the season and could not picture myself going through this tubeless nightmare 3 or 4 times a year. Just looking at this video gives me nausea.

[@ynie1]

Been running tubeless for 3 years now. For starters, no risk of pinch flats, you can run lower pressures (way better grip), most small punctures just heal themselves. If you come from MTB, road tubeless isn't that different to setup.

[@marcdaniels9079]

LBS 😂😂😂😂😂😂 easy

[@mokotramp]

Me personally, I wouldn't go any smaller than 32mm for tubeless. Get them right and they're fantastic, get it wrong and they're your worst nightmare! Best to pick other folks brains on their tips and tricks and bring it all together, it almost becomes an art form! 😁 I adore tubeless! I run tubeless on my MTB, gravel and endurance bike. My 'racer' is still using tubes filled with Stan's on 25mm, no desire to go tubeless...

[@Razamanaz65]

Been running tubeless on 2 mountain bikes and a fat bike for years. Just installed 28mm Michelin Pro Cups on 19mm internal width rims and it was a piece of cake. No mess, set the beads before I added sealant, no soap or windex required. Simple.

[@matthewpeet1]

I recommend getting an air compressor: costs the same as an expensive track pump but way stronger airflow and less effort required.

[@DeStraatz]

I have been running tubless now for about 3 years, and never had any issues with seating, or removing the tyres (although i have only used the GP 5000 variants). Yes first time fitting they can be a bit tight to get onto the rim, but nothing worse than the old Vittoria Corsa clinchers. Seating is also easy as, just with a normal pump, reseating after refillin sealant is a little harder, but my tip is to remove the old sealant on the bead, this allows for a better tyre rim interaction. With tubes I would puncture about 5 times or more a month (yes im that guy), now with tubeless I puncture maybe 5 times a year, and thats because I have forgotten to top up the sealant, or I have a puncture that would be a puncture regardless of tyre. After being fitted the first time, i can easily remove the tyre with a lever, and put it back on just with my hands, with a tube in i need to use a lever due to the extra volume taken up by the tube. Granted if I lived in a drier and warmer country, I would run latex, but alas, I do not, and for me tubeless is both cheaper, less faff, quicker, and allows for a good peace of mind.

[@marcdaniels9079]

This whole issue is so divisive it’s quite funny. Cyclists love to rant about things: discs v rim brakes on road bikes, DI2 v mechanical, carbon v alloy (anything ), aero vs endurance …. We just love a good argument 😂😂

[@global_nomad.]

running tubeless 25's for a few years now, and yes had the full trauma events twice. but now much better prepared.. On the whole faff at home still far better than faff on the side of a cold wet road. Have had enough traumatic moments with tubes too though every tiny puncture needs a fix whereas most tubeless ones go unnoticed. you missed a couple of points about setting up correctly - spreading sealant around inside the tire - rotating but also flicking the wheel while horizontal to get sealant on sidewalls, and then regular checking and topping up.

[@gaza4543]

I think whats happened now is the formulations are now better with high pressure and more "sticky". I've been waiting to see how it plays out. my last tyer under 30c just didn't seal. And tried everything and hole really wasn't that big. In my area of Suffolk has a lot of sharp flinty/glass debris on the surface and the tyers tend to cut rather than a puncture. And my tyers with latex tubes have survived things that my tubeless set-up just wouldn't have which is a strange thing to say. So i am reluctant to swap over. Though my Rovals Rapides CL ii are meant to be a very good setup this way and easy to do. Tubes even latex tubes are a lot easier oh don't know.

[@agungnarendra776]

Of all "things should know about tubeless" videos, this is one the most useful and informative. If you're feeling adventurous, tubeless is worth a try. But if you're a practical person, stick with tubes. Tubeless, especially on road bikes still has a lot of issues to justify the gains in my opinion.

[@NeoPayneHK]

this video is a good one~ pre stretch new tubeless tyre is a top tip~~~~

[@sventice]

I tried tubeless for a while but decided that the very minimal advantages, if there are any, just aren't worth the faff: really difficult tire mounting, having to run ridiculously low pressures on tarmac, non-sealing punctures (yes, they do occur), and most discouraging, the sticky, utterly disgusting sealant. I quickly learned to dread the possibility of a roadside puncture. With tubes, you can usually get a roadside puncture and be riding again in less than 10 minutes; with tubeless, a puncture might seal itself and you won't even notice, or you might be stuck on the side of the road in the rain, you and your bike covered in sealant, with sore, bloody fingers, desperately trying to get the tire back on the wheel and failing, feeling like an idiot.

[@stillededge]

For this occasion...Uber is the solution.

[@bikemirror6620]

You know that you can still pump your tyres and ride it? Even if the sealant doesn't seal the tyre completely you can still ride your bike at lower pressure which should seal it eventually.

[@stillededge]

@@bikemirror6620 that presumes...you can pump it...and it'll hold a little air. But I've found if the hole is too big or once you break the bead, if you don't have Co2 to "air blast" the bead back on...our cute little bike pumps...are just training weights...yer walking... I love riding tubeless...but I'm pretty sure they are good until they are JUST BAD. Haven't had an issue while RIDING with them yet; but at the house, mounting them, filling them...that experience isn't going to go well roadside.

[@bikemirror6620]

@@stillededge if that happens likely you tire is too old and needs replacement. No different from a tube tyre, when it is old likely to get morr punctures. For you to damage a fairly new tubeless tire, likely you damage the same tube tire that you can't run them anymore with tubes. Tubeless tires are stronger that is why it is more expensive

[@stillededge]

@@bikemirror6620 I haven't been tubeless long enough to have "old" tires - I hope. First set lasted less than two years before they were "worn": got maybe 4k miles out of them. BUT "DAMAGED" may have been an issue with my second set of tires. I Had to fight them on the rim and "had" a tendency to max the pressure out..."I" may have created the micro holes in the sidewall that kept oozing sealant? Or maybe damaged the bead? I don't like taking credit for that though - since I never exceeded max pressure...even though that was higher than would I "SHOULD" have been using?

[@harrie974]

I’ve tried tubeless several times. My bikes don’t have a lot of tyre clearance, so 25mm is the most I can fit. I can definitely confirm that it doesn’t work well with higher pressures (80/90 psi). Setting up is the easy part, but once you puncture you’re screwed. It keeps leaking sealant when you add pressure. With inner tubes I puncture almost never, with tubeless I punctured almost every ride. After a few tries to seal them properly, I finally put in inner tubes and rode them till they were square without any issues.

[@yonglingng5640]

Try Goodyear Eagle F1 clinchers, these 25 mm units measure more closely to 25 mm than its competition.

[@juanfersan]

Very good. I never heard that pop! Will go riding and will let you know! :)

[@yonglingng5640]

On some wheels, the tires don't produce the "ping" sound when their beads seat, but rather seat silently. As long as the beads are seated, this is all that matters.

[@ottobihrer732]

Changed from 25 mm Tubes to 32 Tubeless a year ago. Used to get flats a dozen times a year, but haven't had one with the Tubeless since I got it. But I shake in fear having my first flat with the Tubeless. Most likely will go again with Tubes, maybe 28 or 30 mm.

[@Mike-vd2qt]

"Demoralized", you nailed that. I've found myself crying over tubeless. Hair dryer to warm them; set up first with a tube overnight; don't use cheap valves (they leak); rim tape has to be perfect; Good Luck! 🙂

[@kurtverbrugge]

I run tubeless since about 6 years. When I bought a new bike it was installed with tubes. After 80 km got my first flat. Switched immediately back to tubeless and I only had to inflate a tire twice to be able to get home.roads since then about 20k. No roadie side repairs needed. Here is what I do: when I was my bike I also clean the tires so I can inspect them and inspect the frame for sealant. If there is sealant on the bike depending on the amount, I pump the tire to a higher pressure the I ride it on. About 1 bar higher to check. If a hole pops open then I put a dab of glue on it (one that works with rubber). Especially with how bad the roads are sometimes I do not need to worry about getting snakebites and it is more comfortable. For me it is worth the extra hassle when mounting a clean tire. I do not carry any inner tube anymore, just plugs and an small pump. I have up till now not use a plug since I carry them. I do not carry an inner tube because the plugs I have should be able to close 8mm so.if a hole is bigger a inner tube would probably also burst.

[@RichSPK]

Good to know! But I think you've talked me out of tubeless tires, at least for a while.

[@craigpavia8943]

radiators, cleaning rims, dry run...bloody hands/blisters; more tools, doesn't work well on sizes smaller than 28s? Sounds awesome, sign me up LOL

[@jurassicchrist]

I can change a tube in under 2 minutes. This level of faff is insanity😂

[@martintodd370]

FiItted tubless without any problems. 50 -60 psi. OK at first, but first time I rode on bad road surface (potholes) they leaked badly. it got everywhere! Couldn't get them to reseal. had to put inner tubes in both tyres. Very messy! Finished up with "Stan's" all over me and the bike. Never again until the technology is sorted!

[@ynie1]

IMO, Stan's is a fairly low-end sealant. As many have mentioned in the comments, the top two sealants are Muc-Off and Silca. I've used both, and both have sealed up punctures wonderfully.

[@vicnichols3674]

Had all the issues as shown but now got necessary repair kit. Run tubeless on gravel bike at 40 psi 700x35 plus. Stick to inner tubes on road bike although do have tubeless ready carbon wheels.

[@k9taxi]

On average I get a dozen punctures every year from goats head thorns. Three years ago I finally had it because I had multiple CO2 cartridges that were defective, several new tubes defective and a CO2 head that broke. All of these problems left me stranded and calling for someone to pick me up. I switched to Tannus solid foam tires and never had another flat. Problem is they have a very harsh ride and have significantly higher rolling resistance. This spring I am going with Maxxis High Road tubeless on new rims. Never tried tubeless before but I'll just have to find out for myself if it's going to be another fail. If tubeless fails then I'm done with cycling.

[@Shopsmith10er]

Old and new school ~ premium tubulars with Vittoria compatible latex inner tube sealant. Worst case scenario tire is sliced beyond hope, just swap to the spare tubular in a couple of minutes, incl inflated on back on the bike.

[@yonglingng5640]

Tubulars are no good outside racing.

[@Shopsmith10er]

@@yonglingng5640 Okay team authority of no knowledge or cycling experience.

[@yonglingng5640]

@@Shopsmith10er You have no idea how much of a bike I've worked on.

[@Shopsmith10er]

@@yonglingng5640 No, I don't know nor give a fish heads soup to care. Keep working on your bikey's.

[@ynie1]

Are you gluing your tubs? I know people love to complain about how difficult it is to remove a tubeless tire, but removing a tubular tire?!?! I've done it once on the side of a road and left my hands raw. Sold my tubular wheelset the next day.

[@gustavocavallin]

Thanks for the video! I was wondering whether to go tubeless and this help me make my mind. I won't do it. The only issue I am having is that here, in South California, there are these "goat heads" that pierce my gatorskins as if they were plain rubber... I will look for some other set up to prevent flats...

[@marcdaniels9079]

WTF ! Pierce Gatorskins 😮

[@colinjava8447]

What's the pop sound for? I don't get how adding pressure makes it pop, wouldn't the tyre be seated once you put it on? Getting tubeless wheels/tyres in a few days and want to get it right if I can.

[@loft4me]

Tires vary in their ability to stay on the rim. I had three incidences where either in the process of pumping up my tubeless or shortly after pumping, the tire blows off the rim in a messy explosion. That's my only gripe of the tubeless. Otherwise, once on and stable, it's self-sealing ability takes care of any thorny issue 😂.

[@airkrd]

I've been running 28cm tubeless tires on my 2020 Roubaix for 3 years and I've had zero problems. The only down side is they slowly leak air, I have to top them off every two weeks or so.

[@gearoiddom]

I put some Vittoria Rubinos on tubeless. Was a great struggle. If I didn't have one of those tyre seating tools I was done for to be honest. That said, I'm pleased with the performance, which is what matters ultimately. The nightmare installation is water under the bridge. For now!

[@frankhesketh4903]

Hi, what is the best way to remove old, dried sealant around the bead of a tubeless tyre before trying to remount it? Thanks

[@dtaylor4319]

I've been running tubeless on my gravel bike for about 5 years now and have only had one puncture where I've had to put a tube in and if I had known about the 'bacon strips' then I wouldn't even had to bother with that! In my experience you missed a couple steps: - once the tyre has been set up, sealant added and tyre inflated shake the sealant around the tyre while rotating to get an even distribution, put it on the bike and spin the tyre or even better go for a ride! - if you do get a puncture DON'T STOP PEDALLING, carry on for a few minutes and see if the puncture seals. If it doesn't then you may need to use the 'bacon strip'. If that fails then it may be inner tube time. You can also rotate the wheel so the puncture is at the bottom (next to the ground) so that the sealant covers it, but IME this doesn't always work. In 5 years I've had loads of punctures I didn't even know about and have had to use the bacon strips on 3 or 4 occasions, so there's no way I'm going back to tubes ... well unless I get a puncture I can't seal!

[@julesnfriends]

It does seem that if you're on 30mm road or gravel, or bigger, then the benefits of tubeless outweigh the hassle. Trying to go tubeless on 25mm road tyres is painful, easier to stick with a tube. 30mm+ tubeless is a smoother ride on endurance road bikes. I clean and replace the fluid every 9 months now can't believe how many punctures I didn't know I'd had over 3 years, when you look at all the thorns, staples and bits of wire that have gone through the tyre, or are still in it. It will have save hours of ride time, and a lot of tubes. You can clean valve cores by soaking them in clear lamp oil (that's high grade kerosene or paraffin depending on where you live in the world, all the same thing) for 24 hours, then blasting them clean by putting the valve core only in your track pump. Take care where you're pointing it when you do that, one pump is enough........

[@geoff4705]

Having 2-4 ounces of liquid sloshing around your rim is the same as replacing your ball bearings with gravel. Surprised no one ever mentions this.

[@ynie1]

Not really, when you're riding the 1-2 ounces (for road tires), it just "coats" the tire. Even on my MTB which does have 4 ounces, it just coats the rim and you don't really notice it.

[@nicholasparry6859]

Illogical comment.

[@steve050867]

I broke my tyre gripper trying to fit a Good Year Grand Prix S tyre. The tyre has been stretching on an old wheel for 2 months now. I'll give it another go. Why is the front tyre fit easier than the rear?

[@jellyfishsalad5926]

I won't run tubeless on tyres less than 35mm. In my experience the pressure needed is too high for good sealing to happen.

[@picchioknossus8096]

I wish I was informed I was buying tubeless. I wish the mechanic was honest enough to tell me "hey man would you like me to put sealant inside?" or even "man beware I'm not putting sealant inside the tubeless" or "man why are you buying a regular bike repair kit? The bike you are buying is tubeless".... finally the last warning I would have appreciated "man the tires are actually glued to the metal frame of the wheel, good luck removing them on the field".

[@jbratt]

I have been fighting with my tubeless setup for a couple of years. Recently I switched from using Stan’s sealant to muc off and all the problems have ceased. It might be a compatibility with my tires. Whatever the problem was I won’t go back to Stan’s.

[@TheRickysee]

It seems the leaks always occur at the valves. Why don’t the valves seat proper? How do we know what valves work for white rims? And I didn’t even know about those O-rings.

[@frankfesta8737]

Tip #10: Switch back to tubes

[@yonglingng5640]

@Ryan Terence Not all seemingly old-school items are bad. People stick with them because they just work, especially when there never was a need for them to go tubeless.

[@cccycling5835]

I love tubeless on my 40mm gravel bike. Tbh if you have a gravel and aren’t tubeless you’re doing it wrong. I’m 50-50 on road tubeless tho. I’m a pretty heavy guy and I get flats A LOT from pinch flats and road debris, but I’m wondering if it’s still worth the hassle.

[@peterl3463]

Guys where can i buy those tyre grabbers ?

[@arbjful]

You shouldn't leave the inner tubes at home anyway, if the puncture doesn't seal you can always put the tube in and go back home, but this can be difficult especially if the sealant is old

[@gaza4543]

if you can even get the valve out to enable this, in dark at -2 with a little wet road salt you aren't getting that off there. there are some areas where tubless needs further development.

[@robhaddock2034]

So tired of being sold tubeless.

[@JohnBatty]

The comparison of a tubed puncture vs tubeless puncture "that won't seal" may be accurate but is not the whole story. You also have to account for all the tubed punctures vs tubeless "just keep riding". In my own experience this makes tubeless more attractive.

[@mmnorton1]

I had the plugs, still didn’t seal. Always riding with tubeless anxiety because it fails more than it works. Went back to tubes and happy dayz.

[@bikemirror6620]

Stans is not great for pressures above 60psi. Use the race specific one

[@lovenottheworld5723]

It's an interesting theory that you can just carry a tube and fit it at the side of the road if something goes wrong.

[@gaza4543]

only if you can get that valve out. or it will be the taxi of shame....tubes aren't going anywhere.

[@yonglingng5640]

@@gaza4543 Correction: If you can even debead the tire that is.

[@mikem4814]

Very nice overview! But I did notice this: at 4:42 it is correctly stated “utilize the deepest part of the wheels.” But then at 4:46 we see the tire being mounted starting at the valve. Going about it this way it will ensure that you will NOT be using the deepest part of the wheels, as the valve takes up substantial space in the rim bed. Let the cursing begin…

[@MrMadvillan]

I can change a tube in 10 min mostly because i ride in los angeles and get flats half a dozen times a year. no way Id want to go through that every time even if twice a year.

[@simonashwell8909]

All personal experience but tubeless did not work for me. Sealant fail, valve fail, gloop everywhere….only a spare inner tube got me round. Make sure you use good tyres.

[@redinho1994]

4:50 Don't start at the vavle but rather on the opposite side.

[@glennoc8585]

Tubeless for gravel tubes for road. Latex tubes with quality wider tyres are very comfortable

[@nicholasparry6859]

Best comment here. Someone who actually has a brain and uses commen sense! 🤣 the bias here is insane. Both have good purpose. Just depends where your riding.

[@cosinus_square]

I've been running tubeless for about 5 years with no issues whatsoever, not even a puncture that didnn't seal, For some reason, people don't seem to understand that tubeless was designed for low pressure and wide tyres, it's not suposed to work otherwise. Then they are so surprised and angry when it fails, it's shocking. Why is it so hard to understand 2 basic rules?

[@yonglingng5640]

This is why I don't want to go tubeless on my road bike, but could consider if I do ride gravel/MTB/both one day.

[@cosinus_square]

@@yonglingng5640 I'm on my 5th set of 32mm Panaracer Gravelkings slicks, no issues whatsoever, and they can be seated with a track pump.

[@yonglingng5640]

@@cosinus_square Because your operating pressures are lower.

[@cosinus_square]

@@yonglingng5640 I ride @60psi, unless the road is extra smooth 100psi is a detriment.

[@user-fk8rb8ue5h]

I will stick to my trusty Audax made by a Harrogate firm, Spa cycles

[@ricperez19]

I Wish I Knew Before I Went Tubeless On My Road Bike that GP5000 TLs does not work with all tire levers and most tubeless plugs does not stay at high tire pressures

[@kkuo326]

Went back to tubes on my road bike.

[@jack002tuber]

Ok what's a radiator?

[@xchopp]

omg, what a pallaver! Think I'll stick with tubes, ta very much :)

[@charlesmansplaining]

Do you actually think that showing another video about road tubeless is going to entice me to give it another go? Road tubeless is dead to me. Got it? Dead!

[@njm3211]

Never going back to tubes.

[@AllanPhillips]

For me, it's tubes in the summer and tubeless in winter.

[@amrgardner]

For amateur rodies, tubeless is just an ungodly faff, surely

[@ke0kie]

MTB, high volume low pressure, tubeless yes. Low volume big pressure (road) tubeless no

[@havefunandbikestuff]

Tried it in 2018. Not for me. Good video though.

[@Cicadawee]

Tubeless, Disc brakes on rb.....LOL Goodluck.

[@nicholasparry6859]

Try going tubed in idaho lol. Goatheads will destroy the tube first ride out.

[@terry1893]

What a nightmare!!!

[@lukkevin]

Two additional key points which gave bad experience in tubeless: 1) Most used a low performing sealants - use the one from Silca which seals much larger punctures (make sure to get both the sealant and the topper products). 2) Most use a regular valve which gets clot by the sealant eventually- use fillmore valve system!

[@mikesuperg]

I’m seeing this video. I’ve done all the things. I just don’t get it. I have never reached the point where I found tubeless reliable and also less of a hassle than occasionally changing a tube.

[@dpustovalov]

Tubeless tires on a road bike is a marketing gimmick. I had more punctures to tubeless tires then to tires with tubes. Went back riding tubes and no punctures. Note that I use liners between tubes and tires and this setup has been working great for years for me. Tubeless tires try to solve the problem that does not exist.

[@mrninjaninjaman]

I’ve had very few flats with either, but that’s only one of the many benefits of tubeless. Lower tire pressure is the point, and there’s nothing gimmicky or made-up about that.

[@heliosans]

you are just unlucky dude, bad day.

[@arbjful]

Liners between tube and tire? Could you explain that further please? How do you install that?

[@yonglingng5640]

@@arbjful It's basically a puncture-resistant strip that goes between the tire and the inner tube, giving your clincher setup some extra defense against sharp debris. I reckon there may be some strips that stick to the inside of the tire to ease installation because trying to install an adhesive-free liner when you're installing the inner tube can be tricky to line everything up and can potentially miss the center.

[@yonglingng5640]

@Dimus What liners do you use? I sometimes fancy running a pair, even though I've never gotten a puncture in 10+ years of cycling.

[@martintodd370]

Toddy

[@JogBird]

Things that i will never have on my road bike: disc brakes, tubeless tyres, suspension, electronic shifting, >28 mm tyres, oversized jockey wheels, ceramic bearings, integrated cockpit, 3d printed saddles, power meters, radar

[@xchopp]

Don't knock electronic shifting, it's like magic. So fast, so secure. Di2 user here. I was skeptical before making the leap. Agree on all the other gizmos though.

[@AK-je7ns]

😂😂😂 stuck in the dark ages

[@Multistan85]

Also skeptical with disc brakes, now own both. We are all reluctant, until we try it and it gets cheaper.

[@noeldanganan1638]

Its called progress.. dont like progress?😅

[@stefanwagener]

That confirms that humans (especially when they get older) are afraid of change. But you seem to be young enough to appreciate gear shifting after all ... one of this modern crap invented a century ago. I probably can continue your list for other things in your life, like you will never use electric cars, solar panels or heat pumps in your home. But no worries, I am pretty certain that in 10 years time half of your "never" will turn into "can't live without" ... like probably 15 years ago you thought you will never need a smartphone ... I assume you have one by now. Cars made the switch from tires with tubes to tubeless half a century ago. When setup gets easier and sealant more functional why not switching also on bikes? When a lot of components will be manufactured through 3D printing in the next decade why not having the saddle made as well. Don't limit your imagination to all 3D printed saddles in the future will be stuck in look and functionality of the first generation. And what is wrong with adding safety through a radar ... I was reluctant in getting one myself until I saw another rider having one ... since then I don't want to live without a radar especially on a road bike ... literally your life might depend on it. And with getting older, doing more endurance or bike packing rides comfort might overrule performance or adding more gravel sections to your rides, which means wider tires are a nice way to go ... probably no need for you right now but why rule out by saying never?