91 Ranger Found on Road Dead - No Start, No Spark

This 1991 Ford Ranger 2.3L has been sitting for 5 years. It was running, then it died and would not restart. We check the DIS module and the charging system.
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[@WrenB111]

I don't even watch TV shows anymore. I just watch these videos from different mechanics and restorers. The internet is the greatest thing to happen to humankind and the worst at the same time! Thanks for the hours and hours of free entertainment

[@maxjansen8181]

You are the engineer that got tired of math all day and wanted to do real work. Your work is fantastic.

[@MrShobar]

Try doing the "real work" post 55 years of age.

[@maxjansen8181]

Informative.

[@MrShobar]

@@Jnes01 It's easier to push a pencil at age 55 than it is to do. the "real work" Wes does. Now if he had an apprentice...

[@DanEBoyd]

@@MrShobar By 55, one has hopefully put their self in a position where they can still get by decently, by doing the real work on the immediately tangible side, at a 55 year old's pace.

[@picklerix6162]

Most engineers don’t do have to do Math. Most engineers are problem solvers. I started doing my own auto repairs because most of the local mechanics were ripping me off. I also do all of my own oil changes because Jiffy Lube charges $90+ for a synthetic oil change.

[@DieselCreek]

Man!! this beauty brings back so many memories! I had that same interior in mine, it was a 91 as well. wish it had those wheels and sweet visor! my door dinger was also very quiet.

[@WatchWesWork]

Yep, those sweet 14" wheels!

[@DieselCreek]

@@WatchWesWork I think mine had 15's on it....

[@fredbennett3549]

​@@WatchWesWorkwhere did you get that test light at?

[@desertcrawler999]

The non-functioning tachometer is a dead giveaway for a bad DIS module on those Rangers, even when it is failing intermittently. I had one that would run great once in a while, then bog down the rest of the time. It eventually started backfiring and would barely run at all. It would also drink gas like a V8. Disconencting the battery would help sometimes. With a new DIS module, it runs like a top and the tach works again. It took a long time to figure out the problem though. Good little trucks.

[@Troy_Built]

When I didn't see the tach moving my first thought was crank sensor.

[@Billybobaggins9]

Was my first thought reading the diagram seeing it goes through the tach to see if it’s moving or not

[@jimurrata6785]

Those 2nd gen alternators were notorious for having the charge plug (rectangular, two Bk/O one W/B) corrode, overheat, lose contact or even catch fire. According to the TSB the charge plug should be replaced _every time_ the charging system is serviced. 14.6V running looks good!

[@mplante7352]

Ford's TSB doesn't go far enough IMO, the rectangular plug that melts is due to the problem of the alternator being overloaded, I think most of the Fords of this era were using a 2G alternator with 75A capacity. Now the real issue starts when your at idle and have all your accessories, lights , heat/AC, stereo and possibly whatever else youve added like sound systems, e fans etc. The 2G will become overloaded and even less then that will overload the alternator. The amps at idle are key here and the 2G cannot keep up with the demand. The only true fix for this is to upgrade to a 3G alternator with at least 130A, upgrade the charge cable and add the fuse. If you have a bad 2G alternator I'd be looking for the 3G upgrade without hesitation, as many of these Fords of said era of burned to the ground because of this stupidly designed 2G alternator.

[@jimurrata6785]

@@mplante7352 As the owner of an '87 F-250 I doubt I could ever overload my alternator. None of those trucks came with E-fans, electric/heated seats or obnoxious stereo systems. The problem was corrosion.... that caused resistance _and heat_ .... that caused more corrosion, resistance and heat.. I swapped to a later 3G style alternator because I was fed up with finding my battery dead when the plastic plug would melt and the charge wires ended up shorted to the frame of the alternator. I also appreciate that my large frame 3G has dual internal cooling fans and can put out more at idle than the old 2G did at redline. The integrated regulator of the 2G was a huge step forward from the tin box regulator of the 1G system. But going backward to the 1G's separate charge lug (with a fused cable) finally fixed it when the 3G appeared around 1990 on the 3.0 & 3.8l V6 Sable/Taurus/Continental Connector corrosion also plagued the early PMGR starters. Until Ford did away with the stupid spade disconnect at the solenoid trigger.

[@mplante7352]

@@jimurrata6785 that green corrosion you'll see on the plug is due to the metal connections getting hot because the alternator is being overloaded over time, which cause the connections to expand and contract and become loose over time, bad connections will cause resistance thus the connector melting and copper will oxidize when it's overheated and you'll get that green galvanic corrosion, A fully loaded XLT lariat model with full power turn on all your accessories, heat, lights, wipers, stereo and, use the power windows and the volt gauge at idle will peg to 8 or lower It is way easier to overload the alternator on these trucks than you think. The stock 2G only puts out about 15 amps at idle which is no where enough to supply the truck with proper electrical. The 2G only has 2 10GA wires that are teed into fuse link at the starter solenoid. Those wires get F'in hot if your taxing the electrical system. These trucks had a weak alternators from the start and I have a 1990 F150, and the first thing I did was tossed the 2G and upgraded to a 225A 3G alternator with upgraded charge cable, my volt gauge barely moves off of 14V at any given point. The Ford TSB should be considered a warning to get rid of this fire hazard 2G alternator because there are document cases of these vehicles and other fords that have burned to the ground because of it. I have personally seen 2 Fords burn in fires because of it and it's completely preventable.

[@jimurrata6785]

@@mplante7352 You seem quite hot under the collar. 🧐 I've serviced plenty of Ford's, replaced plenty of alternators and understand that they are there run the ignition and charge the battery. I'm not here to argue. If you want to run your blower and wipers full blast, all the lights on, radio at 11 while running both windows up and down I can't help you. If you need to vent go start a thread about the speed control deactivate switch on the master cylinder. I've seen a bunch of those go up in flames, and unfortunately they sometimes take a house with them if garaged.

[@DarkFlamage]

I was gonna say that. '87 Mustang I had years ago, replacement alternator instructions said replace that plug or you get no warranty on replaced unit. Not sure how they'd know if ya did it or not?

[@jackhowell8708]

Max is the most reserved, noncommittal dog on KZbin. “A treat? Yeah, whatever.”

[@davidj4662]

He's got a great dead pan.

[@ThatPNWGuy2024]

Just shows you the dog is actually trained. Not the spoiled pup most people raised

[@montestu5502]

He only seems to get excited about mice.

[@CAPNMAC82]

@@montestu5502 And excess winds. And winter cold.

[@montestu5502]

@@CAPNMAC82 - I thought he got depressed about those.

[@jamesbyrne2004]

"So, can we take a break yet?" "I literally just started child" Father and son moments so priceless. You are all around fantastic Wes

[@tonygiraldes7848]

A good example of why I follow your channel 😊 you set out to repair the vehicle and in the process show us the ups and downs you encounter unfiltered. Great channel for learning problem solving 👍 in fact, it’s just the greatest 😊❤️

[@2H80vids]

Yep, anyone can replace parts and, if you replace enough parts, you've a fair chance of fixing the problem. The trick is to diagnose the problem properly, finding out exactly what needs replaced. Knowing what to look for, and why, is what separates the mechanic from the parts changer.😁👍

[@j.markkrzystofiak9907]

Thanks for the memories! Broken lock tabs on ford coils, oh my! Talk about fragile little mothers. Those we like safety seals, couldn’t take it off without breaking one.

[@glennchartrand5411]

Ground strap between the starter and the frame. The crimps go bad, causes the ignition and alternator to fail.

[@DanEBoyd]

Sounds like the negative cable from the battery goes from the battery to the frame or body on those? My '77 F150 has the neg cable going to the engine, and then another ground-strap from the engine to the firewall. When I got the truck, the ground-strap was missing, and the truck had a starter run-on problem, along with a new starter, relay/solenoid, and key switch! I ran a ground cable to the firewall, and the starter never ran away again.

[@glennchartrand5411]

@@DanEBoyd Yeah it's a braided cable that goes from one of the starter mount bolts to the frame rail. The cable Ford uses corrodes inside the terminals and you get an intermittent bad ground that wipes out ignition components and the alternator. I had to replace that cable 3 times during the 450,000 miles I drove my 93 Ranger.

[@tomr3422]

yep I had a 93 and ended up cleaning it and finally replcing it I cant complain at 375k miles but it had the same stuff always go bad, trouble shooting was never very hard as you could look at the problem and usually guess at the correction.

[@markd8296]

No kidding a FORD needs an ignition module.....we used to drive around with 'em in the glove box in the 90's.

[@CAPNMAC82]

@Mrs Wes -- Yay for Spring Break!

[@BlindBatG34]

That is a sweet little rig. I love the 80/90s fuzzy couch interior.

[@zartt7086]

Hi Wes: Ex shop service guy here. I love your thought process during your diagnose sessions. You use the same method of problem solving that I found stood me in good stead during my "career". The one thing that stands out to me is during this Ranger diagnose session, is the fact that you actually used the term "JEEPERS", when you were surprised at a result. That nailed it for me. I am now 100% convinced that you really are a time traveler from somewhere in the mid 1940's to the mid 1960's. That period of time when a service technician was called a mechanic, and actually was able to fix broken and worn out parts. The days of analog automobiles. You made the transition into the OBD-WHATEVER diagnosing world very well, something that 95 percent of todays service techs don't ever master. Keep up the good work. ZARTT

[@lyleroeder9531]

Great job with the diagnostics as always Wes! Incorrect voltage can make it interesting to chase down problems.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

I worked in fleet maintenance for almost 40 years and I could not possibly count the number of times strange electrical issues were traced back to a bad ground, especially on older or high mileage vehicles. If I have a electrical problem anywhere, I look at the ground circuit first. Two braided copper ground straps, one on each side of the engine direct to the frame, is the first shot fired from the parts cannon. Cheap, easy and can never hurt.

[@timkis64]

i love those old rangers.with proper maintenence they just keep going.mine only has 200k on it & still runs as good as the day i bought it in 2000.some have made it to 350- 400k miles.with proper care of course.

[@spelunkerd]

Gotta love that combination of farmland repair with thoughtful diagnostics.

[@dougdegraff5892]

Electronic ignition requires a minimum of 10.2 volts to operate effectively. Below that threshold the overall condition of the rest of the ignition system will dictate weather the engine will start and run.. I suspect a truck that old has many electronic issues with loose or corroded connections, bad grounds ( which you made mention of) bad wiring, weak battery, the list goes on. Long story short. Without doing voltage drop test under cranking loads, it would be very difficult to find and correct them all. I think you did an awesome job correctly diagnosing the two major issues and getting back on the road. Your depth of diagnostic talent for someone as young as yourself never ceases to amaze me.. I was a mechanic for 48 years and I still learn new stuff watching you. By the way Points ignition will operate down to 9.7 volts effectively, and when diagnosing electronic ignition problems a test light will lead you down the garden path every time.. a volt meter is your best friend..

[@bobhudson6659]

Well said re Wes' skills, knowledge and diagnostic skills. I am a retired mechanic in Land Down Under and also learn from Wes + Rainman Ray, another KZbinr. Ford Boss Me is another I am learning from as well.

[@robertgrauman8602]

I had a 94 and 95 Ranger with the 2.3 and I remember reading online that the ignition module was a relatively common thing to fail. Reason being that being bolted to the intake, without any kind of heat sink, the engine heat cycles would eventually burn up the module. At some point they got smart and made the module with a heat sink and moved it to the firewall or radiator support. I don't know enough about electrical to armchair mechanic about it, but watching your videos makes me feel like it's something I can do. I just need a better multi meter than the pocket size auto sensing one I got from Radio Shack 20 some years ago.

[@suzi_mai]

I have an 1989 f150 with the 300 six and I carry a spare tif module with me always. And the tool to change it. Saved me many times.

[@davesendit1348]

I have an 86 f150 with the 5.0. Same design issue. Believe it or not the ORIGINAL module only failed a couple months ago. Thoroughly impressed lol

[@throttlebottle5906]

ford has always had ignition module issues across all their vehicles, you should always carry a spare or ten and stock cases of them. that said many people miss the fact that lack of secondary ignition tune-up's cause the ignition coils to fail and that overloads the modules, quickly killing them. also the lack of proper heatsink contact or changing them without cleaning, applying fresh thermal grease and making sure the surfaces are flat and good contact occurs. I learned the hard way long ago.

[@lvsqcsl]

I never did understand why manufacturers would mount sensitive electronics to the engine. I remember Chrysler and their "Lean Burn" computer mounted to the air cleaner housing right over the driver's side exhaust manifold. All of that heat and vibration would eventually cause issues. Later M-body police cars had the computer inside the car. Great video!

[@theoriginalmilenko]

@@lvsqcsl its because of rfi issues with spark.

[@williamhouk6880]

I have an old 2wd short bed stranger that never run right till I dropped a Chevy 350/350 turbo, 370 posi in it. What a Truck. Single quiet exhaust, peeling paint, skinny tires, but it hauls like a heavy half ton and drives like a sports car! Enjoy your videos Wes, keep them coming!!

[@imdavid28]

Always look forward to my Saturday mornings with Wes!

[@picklerix6162]

One of my classmates had one of these Rangers back in the early 90’s. It would intermittently die when it got hot in heavy traffic. The dealer couldn’t find anything wrong with it so he traded it in. In 1994, I bought a 1994 Mazda B3000 and I read about the infamous Ford ignition module. The module in my truck is located in the front, next to the radiator, and mounted with heatsink grease. I bought an extra module but the original never failed. I still have the truck and I drove it in 98 degree weather yesterday.

[@jnic2003]

I had a 1990 with the exact same drivetrain, good little truck.

[@thedreadedgman]

I learned to drive on 1979 Subaru DL and a then a 1991 Ranger with the 2.3L and 5 speed manual... we were in mountains of New Mexico at 7000 feet... 5th gear was only useful going downhill... otherwise you'd lose speed.

[@Kc12v140]

The reason they have two plugs per cylinder is so they could use the same head as the industrial engines. There were a lot of dual fuel Lima 2.3 where they removed one set of plugs and installed propane injectors in those holes so they would run just fine of gasoline with the port injection and could be switched almost instantly to propane via the direct injection. If I recall genie used a lot of them in the boom lifts. ***Edit, this is completely wrong as I’ve since discovered, see comment below***

[@Kc12v140]

I should note that it’s been years since I’ve seen one so I could be horribly mistaken

[@BCII]

You are correct. Genie and I think JLG also used these engines.

[@alb12345672]

I am buying an F150 with a 6.2 and it has that 2 plug setup.

[@patturk7408]

Official word from Ford was the dual plug/DPI system was used because the engine couldn't meet EPA HC standards when cold. Once the engine warmed up, it reverted to a single plug per cylinder.

[@Nudnik1]

jlg s i fixed so many . Ford had issues with Carbs and starter ring gears. Ring gears have to go on only one way on these. Dont ask me how i know..lol I have newer JLG which have EFI GM motors. Perfect no trouble

[@waynep343]

Multimeter test I use on every car and pickup. Battery close to full charge. Engine running, headlights on. Meter to 20vdc 1. Positive post to negative post. 14.1 to 14.8volts is expected.. 2. Negative post to engine . 0.04 volts max. 3. Negative post to body. 0.04 volts max. 4. Engine block to firewall. 0.04 volts.. 5. Positive post to a bunch of fuses in the underhood fuse block. 0.04 volts max 6. Positive battery battery post to alternator output stud. 0.3 volts max. These six steps take me less than 2 minutes to perform. Print this and try it. Find the hidden resistance in the main circuits.

[@mbazzy123]

I had A 1982 Ranger 2WD with the 2.0L 4 cyl. engine..with the 4 speed manual and 1 barrel Carter carburetor. That thing was pinging all the time. I rebuilt the valve train twice what a turd but I always liked the look of the truck it had that F150 profile just in a smaller package. Great video Wes thank you for the hours of education.

[@95thousandroses]

I really like the closing thoughts at the end of the vids. Helps me clear up my own thoughts about what I was seeing. I'm glad Wes was a bit confused at the end because I sure was.

[@alaningram515]

One of the things I have learned about the Ford, and the EEC module, are the EEC units need a good ground. I had a 1981 Fairmont, and one day I went out to start it, and it had no spark. I cleaned the battery terminals, nope. I changed out the module in the distributor, distributor cap, and rotor, nope. I removed the EEC module, and the attaching bolts were rusty and crusty, along with the mounting points of the EEC module. Cleaned up the fender apron, EEC module, and mounting bolts, PRESTO !! Fired right up. That's my input of past experience. I enjoy watching your channel, and share your 7.3 Powerstroke video's to my "bouncing bundle of joy" (son), that has difficulty with his 1997 7.3.

[@jentom1971]

I just went through the same issue on my 94 2.3, I wasn't getting a good ground on the DIS. I had snapped one of the bolts off removing it, a little crusty, once I drilled and tapped all the holes out, and replaced the bolts. its running great now. Driving 170 miles a day Knock on wood

[@WatchWesWork]

This one has an extra ground added.

[@curtisroberts9137]

You really are living the dream buddy! Parking lot full of old, rusted out, S-box Fords. What a life! Haha. At least you got a nice family and a good shop with your own timelines to work on. Good video and diag.

[@larrycroft470]

Ha Wes my favorite parts of your videos (i watch them all from beginning to end) is when you have your precious little boy and beautiful wife on with you. You not only are a brilliant man & excellent mechanic but most importantly a great father & husband. This is a major reason your channel is growing so fast. Great job Brother!!

[@luvr381]

I had a '97 Ranger with the 2.3, 226k miles and never an issue, just regular maintenance. That truck was a gem, I miss it.

[@glengcc1]

All I know to say is that I admire the savvy as you follow the diagrams and pin the problem down. I have recently had a couple of projects and ran into problem diagnosing the issue. I tell myself … “now this is what Wes does” or “what would Wes do?” Your videos are not boring but fascinating instead. Thank you!😊

[@handyhippie6548]

this is why you see so many really good looking vehicles in junkyards. intermittent electrical issues that made the cost estimates of diagnosing and repairing higher than the value the owners placed on the machine, or they simply got tired of being left stranded when it threw one of it's little hissy fits. the fixes are simple in hindsight, but can lead you down the rabbit hole of despair trying to track them down. good on you for always sticking to the hunt no matter how many twists and turns until you see the light of day again with that furry little bastard clutched triumphantly in your greasy fist. sir, i salute you.

[@DereksGarage]

Fords of that vintage are very sensitive to the modules and computer input voltage during cranking. seen them crank fine but if the voltage drops below a certain point ike 11 volts they will crank fine but not start or start hard. I believe the alternator was the issue all along and that can very well take out modules. seen it many times and always ( only ) on ford vehicles. Great video!!

[@MrCh1cken]

My guess is that the old alternator wasn't in good shape and when it tried charge the dead battery it just failed. When I was young, and this truck was new it was common knowledge not charge a dead battery with the alternator. I remember there being warnings about this in the box with replacement alternators, saying to fully charge the battery first before replacing the alternator. People jumped dead batteries all of the time and it was usually not a problem but you never knew if you would be the unlucky one.

[@agenericaccount3935]

That feeling when the part is in and the video is only half done 😄

[@ronnieking1025]

Wes You Have More Patience Than A Rabbit Box and A Great Mechanic

[@dustysnowman2469]

Check the ECU for corrosion. I've cleaned several that caused backfires, no start ,rough running. The drains clog in the cowl and the water runs straight into the ecu.

[@kevinjefferson3957]

Oh, the memories. I had a 1986 Ford Ranger Explorer edition with v6, 4wd 8ft. bed and 5 speed manual transmission. I bought it as a winter beater, but ended up using it to pull my 18ft. boat up in the mountains of the lakes region of New Hampshire. You could do a lot with that low hp. engine combined with a 5 speed. Lots of shifting but no problems pulling and it breezed through two feet of snow easy. I'd love to have it now to restore. Never had a problem until rust took it's life.

[@Hey_Its_That_Guy]

Love your videos, Wes. Getting older, I have to turn on CC, especially when there's background noise. I love how Google interprets those noises. As you cranked that engine when it wouldn't start, Google interpreted that as "[Laughter]". When you finally got it running, it interpreted that as "[Music]". Ironic, no?

[@curtisowens7834]

Fantastic. You are the part cannon’s worst enemy. True diagnostician. Good work, sir.

[@elmerfudpucker3204]

Those ignition systems featured a "random fire" mode, if the ECM counted a certain number of cranking cycles without the engine starting, it would command the DIS to randomly fire a short burst from the ignition coil, to try to initiate starts. That's why on long crank times, you sometimes hear the engine sound like it's jumped timing or something, then it straightens out. It will also stop firing commands altogether if another threshold of cranking cycles comes along. The strategy behind this, is to ensure an oversupply of unburnt gas in the engine isn't ignited by the random fire mode. The ideas were good, but in practice it made techs pull their hair out trying to diagnose them lol.

[@garychandler5801]

I have a 1994 Ranger XLT with 2.3 L engine and the truck stopped running while driving and would not restart. Confirmed that it had no spark. Had power to the front dual coil and power out of each coil. I suspected ICM and replaced it. Still no spark, found ignition gnd dim like yours but all grounds checked good, Replaced the PCM and now there is no voltage to the ICM or the crankshaft sensor, suspect S115 junction is bad inside wiring harness. I am retired from electronic service work for over forty years. Usually can troubleshoot electrical problems without too much difficulty. However, this one has been a head scarcer. The truck is still not working but I will keep at it until its fixed. Usually cases like this have multiple problems which is what makes them so difficult. Your video has been very helpful, I watch a lot of your videos and particularly enjoy following your electrical troubleshooting mythology. Thanks for all your videos, I really enjoy them.

[@mattmopar440]

these tiny trucks never die I see so many ford Rangers and GM S10-S15 putting around on the road still when even mid 2000 full sizes are going to the crushed because the rust and repair bill got to high

[@tomr3422]

I had a 93 ranger with 375k miles and maintenace was pretty easy as the same stuff always broke, gave it away after 20 years because I was moving and the guy I gave it to got a lot of new spare parts and manuals and drove it away.

[@mattmopar440]

@@tomr3422 Yeah they are so cheap to keep on the road never any reason to send them to the crusher

[@JD-zm4eh]

The little red ranger inside made it do mysterious low to no power things and then pointed the real problem all along to the alternator. Good diagnostics Wes. Electrical problems always frustrate me.

[@virtuestreams2616]

I’ve owned one of these trucks, but my patience ran short trying to diagnose and correct its multitude of electrical and mechanical issues, so I punted it to the crusher. Mine was in no way close to the condition yours is in, so when the conveyor dumped the truck into the crusher, I did receive some sense of satisfaction as it was reduced to tiny fragments of plastic, glass, and metal. Perhaps if I’d had the knowledge you provided today, the old truck of mine may have lived another cycle. Cheers!

[@thecorbies]

Great video, and great diagnostic work. I was driving a van and was ~200miles from home when the alternator decided to try and boil the battery. Actually, I could smell the fumes maybe 10mins before the return journey. I couldn't have the fumes for the entire 4hr drive home, so once the engine was started, I disconnected the alternator and drove all the way home on just battery power. As a point of curiosity to myself, once back home I switched off to see if it would have started, had I needed it to, but it didn't. Not a thing. Barely even dash lights, but it got me home. Yayyyy. Next day new alternator - right as rain from then on. Happy days. Regards Mark in the UK

[@SROWilkerson]

I currently have one, 3.0 v6 but its an automatic, she’s a survivor.. most days. Had to pull the trans to replace the front pump seal when I originally got it, all new plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and a fuel pump with injectors. Basically everything is new, now it runs like new and purs like a kitten going down the road. It was an experience to work on it with my dad and develop my love for mechanic work. Its also how I found Wes’s channel, Love you Wes. Keep doing what you’re doing

[@KoltFin]

Have you ever checked the camshaft position sensor? A buddy of mine had his 3.0 seize because it wore out.

[@nashsmith3005]

I had been waiting all day to watch this. Excellent video. Well worth the wait. I enjoy watching electrical diagnostics

[@davebrittain9216]

Watching this was like watching a "who done it suspense movie" lol. Good video as usual Wes.

[@willybones3890]

I had a 90 red on red longbed with the 2.9 5spd. Added a full leaf spring, put a moonroof and a Rhinoliner in it. Loved that Truck.

[@kevingulbransen3916]

Flux capacitor issue. Max is a cool dog. Love the videos Wes!

[@imouse3246]

How could anyone be afraid of poor Max. Just come bearing food gifts.

[@CAPNMAC82]

@@imouse3246 Dunno. Was a UPS guy who was afraid of my 20# Manx cat--just no accounting.

[@iamrichrocker]

the pursuit of knowledge and getting answers..you are a rare Dude..

[@haydenc2742]

Check all the body grounds (sand and reconnect), double check fuel pressure and/or change the fuel filter...my sons 98 the sock in the tank disintegrated and ended up pushing fibers into the in tank fuel regulator causing 1/2 the recommended pressure...

[@SKIPWIRE1]

Talking to the small screen, "Disconnect the 2nd coil pack". Then Wes educated me, and I'm all better. Came from a troubleshooting school "Disconnect it all and put on thing back at time till it dies or works". Great video, looking forward to the next. Thanks.

[@ratstomper3849]

I had an 89 ranger that would never ever start on first crank. You could crank till batt ran down and it wouldn't fire first round. I eventually learned key on/key off then crank and it would start right up. Never knew the cause. Dealer tried 3 times to fix and never did. I just accepted it as it was and went on with life.

[@robertheinkel6225]

Very odd indeed.

[@garyrhodes7089]

Watch Wes Work never fails to entertain thanks GR in uk

[@chrise.2495]

Yes Wes... i missed your Video...... 🙂👍🤙 and i hope mrs.wes brings a new episode too

[@lvsqcsl]

That 2.3 liter Pinto engine was used until 1997 in everything from Pintos to Thunderbird Turbo Coupes, etc. Great video!

[@prizedcoffeecup]

What can sometimes happen with dying alternators is they temporarily come back to life at higher RPM with no rhyme or reason. My friend had a early 2000s Taurus do that weirdly...at idle it would not charge, revving it initially would do nothing either, but after 2 or 3 minutes of driving the lights would suddenly brighten up and you would see the alternator weakly charging on a multimeter. That being said, definitely good call replacing it. I suspect electrical noise from the bad alternator may have been interfering with the DIS.

[@Ragnar8504]

My dad had a Japanese van in the second half of the 80s and that developed an even more interesting alternator fault - the winding would go open as the engine got up to temperature so in the shop it would charge just fine but on longer drives it would start cutting out. And I mean properly long - hundreds of kms on the Italian motorway in the summer heat. Crapped out on the way to Italy, towed to a garage, couldn't find anything wrong except a flat battery. Crapped out again about 500 km into the way back, Austrian border guard helped push across the border 😀 Towed to Austrian garage, replaced alternator, worked fine. He replaced the van later that year because of rot and repeatedly sticky brakes though. I think that was the time I learned what hot brakes smell like. The same model he replaced it with lasted 24 years until it was completely rotted out by road salt and needed a head gasket. There were also some minor electrical gremlins like losing one headlight during heavy rains, which I kinda suspected to be a ground issue because at the same time the dash would start acting up, random lights glowing weakly.

[@jacobpie3692]

For some reason my 95 4.0 ranger does something similar, I’ll start it and get no voltage from alternator, then 30 secs later my volt meter jumps up and lights brighten a little. Still charging though so I haven’t thrown an alt at this one yet

[@GNX157]

I had a 1995 Lincoln Mk8 that had an alternator go bad both the original one stopped charg8ng and the first reman failed by full fielding (16+ volts noted on dvm) and burned out both my headlights. Dunno how everything else survived but it was warranty on the alternator.

[@keithhastings4092]

Back in the day we had to replace the pigtail on the alternator due to risk of arcing and fire…also we had to put dielectric grease on it too…it was good to see a vintage ranger 👍🏽

[@papagator7007]

I'm gonna go with the bad ground, it was doing some wonky stuff and that's usually a ground issue. The alternator I have no idea, maybe it was on the verge when it got there, who knows, maybe the bad ground killed it. I think you're right about the injector thing. I have a 99 ford, with the 302 in it, and I have at least one injector leaking down maybe 2 which gives me a really hard start but if I always prime twice then crank it'll fire right up. Good work Wes, always look forward to your videos, thanks man.

[@tomr3422]

the braided groud from the starter to the frame are bad about crusting inside the eyes and bonking the EEC - I had a 93 that I replaced so many on , finally it got to be something you cleaned at the oil changes and the EEC's were something you carried with you as they were prone to failling more then anything else.

[@phils1427]

The young man has the right idea, it's never too early for a break.

[@bmacd2112]

My brother got over 300k miles out of one of those engines in his '97 Ranger before it gave up the ghost! He probably could have rebuilt it but he chose to buy another from a salvage yard with far less mileage on it. I think he plans to drive that truck for the rest of his life!!!

[@Farm_fab]

Some time ago, Wes, I picked up a Fluke 117 meter at the scrap yard, and couldn't find any issues with it other that the test leads were missing. Last week I got a thermal probe for it, but haven't tried it yet.

[@N1RKW]

2 plugs per cylinder wasn't unheard of back then (at least not unheard of by me). My first vehicle was an '83 Nissan King Cab that had 2 plugs/cylinder in its 4 cylinder engine. I had no idea why, though.

[@burtbacarach5034]

Man I wanted one of those Ranger XLT's back in 89-90.Just couldn't quite swing the $$$ at the time.Brings back a lot of memories.

[@marcmiller789]

I've got an 89 Ranger 4x4 long bed. I absoulutly love these older model square body Rangers!

[@kennethbode2017]

we had several little 4 cyl Rangers at work for in plant use. They ran forever in our dirty, dusty environment

[@peteraitken6494]

Great diagnosis wes top man knew you would get it running not bad for its age take care to you and the family and max 🔧🔧👍👌🔧

[@465maltbie]

Pretty cool to see the crank sensor output and your explanation of it. Charles

[@brucehobbs1734]

You’re becoming quite the Ranger expert! I already sold my ‘89.

[@StreuB1]

We're getting punished with weather this spring, ugh. Great fix, Wes, and awesome video as usual!!

[@edpoints1127]

Awesome diagnosis Wes.

[@seastacker8582]

Sharp little danger ranger. It’s screamin for a 302 swap.

[@HossEehoss]

I had one. My Grandmother passed and I got it in 1993. Only had under 10,000 miles on it. Those 2.3 litre engines can go for a long time. Mine was Canyon Red with the nice aluminum rims and black tonneau cover. Good on gas and quite dependable. I miss that little Ranger 👍👍👍👍👍

[@eskieguy9355]

I think your diagnosis, that the brushes were sticking is right. in which case you probably had two problems, weak module exacerbated by unstable voltage. And if it keeps running, it's a good story to stick to.

[@daviduglem3213]

Wes, another great video! I've had three rangers and 86 and an 88 with the TFI and a 92 like the one you're working on. Always had good luck with the TFI. The 92 I had to replace the computer. Enjoy watching you.

[@Very_Angry_Citizen]

Not going to lie, I watch your channel for the skills and diagnostic talent you have AND to see Max. That's one cool dog.

[@craigsudman4556]

Arrrgh! A real hair puller. Good stuff with the diagnostics. Great video Wes thumbs up.

[@danf4616]

You should "train" Max to change tires and open hoods like Duff! 😁

[@toddbob55]

My 1991 Ranger 2.3 was still the most reliable vehicle i have ever owned. I sold it in 2017 it was nearly 30 years old still had the original Fuel pump in it . Still ran perfect at 250,000 Id like to find a nice low mileage one someday.

[@HamiltonvilleFarm]

As always… great video.

[@WatchWesWork]

I appreciate that Hank!

[@CAPNMAC82]

And, his side kick will help push, too, even wearing sandals 🙂

[@terryrogers1025]

Nice diagnosis on at least some of the problem ( maybe?). I am sure it will be back if there is a problem sir. Your customer would be foolish if he didn’t bring it to you because you now have some working history on the truck and that puts you ahead of the game. Thanks for the ride along.

[@Betterstartnow]

When you tighten those manually with the electric ratchet you have to say "click" to make sure they're torqued to spec. 😀

[@bobhudson6659]

Too much Rainman Ray in you. Haha

[@ephraimcamacho9600]

Thank for your great video!! I'm having the almost the same problem with my 2000 ford ranger 2.5l. No spark coming from new coil packs. I sent your video to my repairman! This may help his see things better!! Thanks again!!

[@WCGwkf]

I had a 96 ranger, crazy electrical problems and all it was is an alternator.

[@nelsoncoffie5668]

Thank you for answering my question, I really enjoy your videos, can’t wait for the next one.

[@samholdsworth420]

I was going to say how's this truck even still alive then I saw the manual transmission lol

[@johnd21]

Nice job on the danger ranger. I absolutely hate troubleshooting electrical issues. Look forward to the next 1

[@jotoole6170]

Good morning Mr. Wes I see your having your shop assistant help out great vidjao

[@MichaelMossmanNZ]

Thank you Wes and Family for another great episode ... it's funny how automotive manufacturers name their models differently depending on target markets. I think here in New Zealand, that model Ranger is called the Courier =)

[@livinglikarockstar]

Great job as always. Yes, PCM's act up with > (some voltage) on different models. My dad purchased a 1990 same body style brand new, same Mitsubishi engine i believe, some had ford engines with only 4 plugs. Used to pull two small bass boats without engines hooked to each other from middle georgia where the boat plant was to my uncles hunting store in wonder lake Illinois, maybe going right past Wes's place? Uncle would outfit them and sell as they were inexpensive and small enough for the common folk. great truck, unfortunately around 180k he let my younger brother make the haul and while over revving up the hills... yep she let loose down below. Next my older brother swapped in a junk yard engine but mixed some components, still unknown at the time i sold it, ran great but would not idle correctly till it went into closed loop when warm. He ran it into the ground, next was my turn. Installed new clutch, sprayed the rusted roof, tuned drove for a bit then sold for $700 with somewhere between 400-500k miles around 1999 or so, ran great but would not idle correctly till warm. Thanks again for sharing, your spill reminds of Pudd'n when he slipped and back flipped working on one his finds on one of his earlier vlogs. lol Cheers!

[@rhekman]

The only Ford Rangers with Mitsubishi engines were the 2.2L and 2.3L Diesels in the early to mid eighties. The 2.0/2.3/2.5L gas engines were all from the Ford four cylinder "Lima" engine family that originated with the Pinto. The truck engines were really solid, if a little un-refined, and most had rather restrictive cylinder heads. The long block is stout enough that turbo guys regularly get 500+ hp out of them, and it's the same motor in the SVO Mustang and Thunderbird Turbo-Coupe. There's a decent amount of aftermarket support, and they're popular in industrial and midget racing.

[@livinglikarockstar]

@@rhekman Cool, thanks for the info! All I remember is that it was unusual at the time as it was a four cylinder with eight plugs! found this out as my father wasn't big on maintenance as at 110k it started to run rough so we pulled the plugs and the electrodes were almost completely gone!

[@danbentsen]

Good watch. The last couple of minutes of your video explains why you have all the customers that you do. You care !!! You are wondering if you caught every thing that was wrong w/truck, but customer wants truck back as soon as you get it running . Maybe you will see truck again maybe not. Good video.

[@nferraro222]

It's an oddball. Could be the ignition is using drivers or voltage regulators that are particularly sensitive to low voltage, but that's a major guess and probably wrong. All of my 5.0 Fords were bulletproof. They could sit for nearly a year, have just enough battery power to compress and fire ONE cylinder and the whole motor would light off immediately.

[@lesd40]

In the early eighties I lived in Findlay, Ohio which is about thirty-five miles from Lima. During one of Ford's hiring events, I noticed a chrome-plated cutaway 2.3 turbo in their lobby. The plant made 460 v-8, 200 and 250 straight sixes, and the 2.3 at the time.

[@DanEBoyd]

Wow, that really was the early '80s if they were still making those inline sixes. My fourth grade teacher (in Dayton) was from Findlay.

[@ryanbrady5968]

i wouldnt put it past that old ford having rotted battery cables -- i've had to replace both the complete positive and ground cables twice on a 1990 ford explorer with the 4.0 -- the positive cable was rotted (as in corroded) a good 6 inches back up the cable at the starter. from the outside it looked perfectly fine but you peel back the sheath and its completely green with corrosion.

[@DanEBoyd]

You ain't kidding! I replaced the starter main-cable on my '88 Mustang GT, and even with a generic McParts store cable, it made a night and day difference - before, the starter didn't want to crank very well when the engine was warm. I did the battery cables too.

[@JD2571]

Cool little truck! I have a 93 long bed. Glad you saved it!

[@stevehill4615]

Your problem with the alternator looks similar to one i've seen a couple of times (especially on "computer" controlled units with multi wire connections as opposed to the old 2 wire (charge light and charging cable) units) whereby there is some charging output but it's not enough to keep up with the demands of the electrical system (when the customer brought the truck over was it with everything turned off except the engine or the battery had just been charged up?) under heavy load, which in turn puts strain on electronics as they try to operate in sub optimal conditions causing them to fail.