#92 JYE Oscilloscope Kit ⚡ (DSO150 Review & Build)

New! ralphbacon.blog
I was tempted to buy this kit on several occasions to share my experience of it with you - and now I can do that as Banggood have sent me this kit for review. It's small, fairly easy to build as long as you have some basic soldering skills and it does the job as long as you don't expect the performance of an oscilloscope costing ten times this price!
Luckily it has all the SMD (surface mount device) components already in place so all that is left to do is solder in the THT (through-hole-technology) components such as resistors, capacitors, a few switches and bits and bobs (new technical term!)
I show you the steps taken (and I did not deviate from the included - and well-written - instruction sheet) with comments, hints, tips and even a trap or two that might fox you.
The enclosure (or housing) can make a real difference to the perceived quality of the components and this one is pretty good, IMHO.
Recommended for a beginner? If you can solder joints consistently and have the right tools (thin tip soldering iron, lead solder, flush cutters, small Philips style screwdriver) then yes, it's a nice project. Moreover it could be very useful as you develop Arduino-type solutions as you can see the waveforms and pulse trains generated in your project.
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LINKS LINKS LINKS LINKS LINKS LINKS LINKS
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Here are the links of most of the items I mention in the video (and no, I don't get commision on any of them, not even from Banggood!)
Original JYE Tech DSO-SHELL DSO150 15001K DIY Digital Oscilloscope Kit With Housing
ban.ggood.vip/119y
PLEASE USE THE ABOVE LINK SO BANGGOOD KNOW IT WAS FROM MY VIDEO!
Soldering Heat sink / Heat shunt spring clip
USA: www.circuitspecialists.com/ht...
UK: www.jaycar.co.uk/soldering-he...
DANIU Heavy Duty Soldering Solder Iron Tip Cleaner Steel Wire (Banggood but available everywhere)
www.banggood.com/Wholesale-DA...
Nylon brush (comes in a set of three with brass and steel too) (Banggood but available everywhere)
www.banggood.com/3pc-Mini-Wir...
Realacc Strange Third Hand Six Arm Soldering Station with USB Fan. I've already done a video on this version.
This is the version I have although there is an updated version with SEVEN arms (but more expensive)
www.banggood.com/Realacc-Stra...
If you like this video please give it a thumbs up, share it and if you're not already subscribed please do so :)
My channel is here:
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[@jstro-hobbytech]

You're a good hardware guy as well as possibly the best mcu based software guy on this platform.

[@RalphBacon]

You are too kind, Joey. But I appreciate the sentiment :)

[@weirdscix]

I bought one of these when you released this video, opened the box, it has been sitting on my table ever since, I really should build it

[@RalphBacon]

It won't take that long, you can do it in a couple of evenings. My advice would be to do is s-l-o-w-l-y, as trying to change those resistors around if you make a mistake will be soul destroying! I measure each resistor just to be absolutely sure. And follow the instructions to the letter. Go on, do it today!

[@weirdscix]

Thanks for the advice Ralph, sounds like a good project for over the weekend :-)

[@mrroobarb]

Very informative and I'm very tempted to get one - I will, of course, use the link above if I do decide to. Thanks for uploading these videos - great work.

[@RalphBacon]

Glad you liked it Bruce, it's a nifty device and I've even used it "for real" looking at a problem with an Arduino circuit. You can, of course, use the link just to look at the item (that will also show interest levels) without having to purchase. Thanks for posting.

[@mrroobarb]

I've taken the plunge and bought it - had some technical issues today and thought that's the very piece of kit I need. Used your link to purchase of course, now to wait 3 weeks or so till it arrives from China lol.

[@nemezida0024]

WOOOOOW We use it!

[@RalphBacon]

Glad to hear it!

[@learnelectronics]

Nice video Ralph, this one looks much better than the DSO138 I put together last year.

[@RalphBacon]

The DSO138 looks like a fine piece of kit too, it just looks different, a bit more, well, let's say "functional" than the DSO150. But as long as it works and gives you value, that's mostly what matters. Thanks for your comment.

[@darrenchapman7203]

I purchased one several months ago and have been happy with it's performance, I have an oscilloscope taking up bench space but it isn't exactly portable, in my experience it's a great little product for the money

[@RalphBacon]

I can ditto that Darren. However, I did some further tests over the weekend and the waveforms at higher frequencies (above audio level) are challenging. How does yours fare at say 50kHz, does the square wave resemble anything like a square wave?

[@artbecker5618]

Thank you, Ralph

[@RalphBacon]

Nice to hear from you, Art, and I'm glad you liked the video.

[@Catstorm99]

Your video is a lot better than most so thanks for the work you did. I only found it by accident though...you might want to add DSO150 in the title as more people will find it.

[@RalphBacon]

Glad you liked the video, Dave, and yes, a great suggestion for a title change, I'm going to do that right now! Thanks for posting.

[@ReflectingMe2024]

Another first class video, Ralph. I am going to purchase one of these later this evening (unless you have alternate recommendations) and when it arrives, will follow your process exactly. They really are great value for money aren't they? I will purchase via your link, too 👍

[@RalphBacon]

Oh, if only that link gave me anything back, John! The next time I agree to do a product review I will make sure there's something in it for me (other than a free product)! But, frankly, I'm not _that_ bothered about it, as it is a nice little device, OK up to about 50kHz (at least you can see whether a signal is present) and pretty good at up to 20kHz. The case is quite robust and professional looking. Not sure what the price is these days (it was on sale at the time of the video) but it should still be good value. Really glad you found this useful, John, thanks for letting me know.

[@alphahr]

I built the open frame DS-138. One of my flux tips we used at Boeing during the 70's-80's was a cotton swab and alchohol. This DS-150 kit looks like it has a better screen than the DS-138, and of course it has a case. The aftermarket plexiglass case for the 138 was pretty hokey

[@RalphBacon]

Yes, alphahr, the case and screen are definitely plus points on this device. I will try and get some rubbing alcohol and try your tip, as the PCB & Flux cleaner I have definitely leaves a residue, which can sometimes be a bit tacky. Thanks for the tip.

[@keithking1985]

I really like your video👍 very clear and helpful. I ordered one last night and am checking out vids on assembly and such.. but iv seen firmware problems like it needing updates that get rid of some of the bugs it has. I noticed that yours had the updated firmware on another vid that shows how to update it. But another vid had even better firmware the last digits been 110 i think. I hope mine has that and not the older or fake ones in other vids that warned about them. Thanks for your video 👏👍👍

[@RalphBacon]

Good luck with the assembly, Keith. The only (unsolicited) advice I can give is do it slowly and double-check each step as it's easy to misalign bits. You can update the firmware yourself if it has not got the latest.

[@keithking1985]

@@RalphBacon Thank you Ralph I'm looking foward to it coming coz I've never done a kit build before. I used to avoid them and get the finished product, but i think that might be a mistake!! My thinking being that one would pay more attention to the make up of the board and get knowledge there and of course soldering practice👍👍. P.s in the comments on the website others asked about the firmware and I t said it has the latest updates.😓 so fingers crossed..

[@fongy200]

Tip: If your struggling to find a none conductive tool for calibration find an old store card and fashion a tool from it. You may have to flatten one end to fit but it will make do and it won't interfere with the signal.

[@RalphBacon]

A good tip, thanks! Certainly using a metal bladed screwdriver never works as it changes the capacitance.

[@bigsscore8378]

Top Man. Thank you very much.

[@RalphBacon]

Glad you liked this, I hope you built one (and got it working).

[@bigsscore8378]

I will now after watching your KZbin videos because you're a good teacher, keep up the good work.@@RalphBacon

[@gpTeacher]

Hey Ralph. I’ve had this kit for two years and a pandemic was just the perfect excuse to solder it up. Needless to say I forgot to order the power adapter so it’ll be another couple of months before I can play with it. I recall you said in one of your recent March 2020 videos you were going to start some electronics fundamentals videos. Perhaps you could do a few with this scope? Teach us how to use it? Like resistor/capacitor charge/discharge cycles etc? Thanks for your consideration and continued great work! Gord

[@RalphBacon]

This little scope is ideal for low (audio) frequencies, perhaps up to 50kHz, Gord, and it's ideal to show students the basics of oscilloscopes. Regarding the fundamentals videos, I have completed the transistor and capacitor ones but need to do the resistor one (ohms law) before releasing them. They are basic. For beginners. The capacitor video does not cover charge / discharge formulae but I suppose a simple video on oscillators could encompass that at a future date. Thanks for the idea!

[@paulcollins664]

Hi RalphJYE DS150 ,I actually built one of these, useful tool I use mine to check to see if a oscillator is working as an indication, when I'm fault finding , instead of starting up my expensive DSO, which counts every start up. Thoughts , limited uses, however handy.Paul

[@RalphBacon]

I find I use this more and more as it's handy to have on my video desk. That said, if all goes to plan, I am moving to a new all-in-one workshop soon so I will have my scope to hand. But this little device will still be used, I'm sure! Thanks for posting.

[@Ed19601]

Interesting. At my age though, with my eyes.. I opted to but the ready made one (slightly different DSO though)

[@RalphBacon]

I hear you, Ed19601, as we get older it's ever harder to see these darned components, especially the SMD ones. Good choice in getting the ready made version. How do you find it? Any good?

[@Ed19601]

Ralph S Bacon yes I like it very much. I have the DSO 138. Works easy and decent. Obviously the specs are simple but for the regular Arduino/esp/electronics things that I do it is fine. Btw fully agree on the ledfree solder. It is horrible

[@karlng2691]

I want that oscilloscope!

[@RalphBacon]

It took me many months of saving and asking whether I really needed it Karl! It's not cheap, but it's about as cheap as you're going to get an oscilloscope that actually does something useful. I've had it for a while now and I'd say it's pretty good. Does the job (as you saw!) Here's a link: www.banggood.com/RIGOL-DS1052E-5_6-Inch-TFT-LCD-50MHz-2-Channel-1GSas-Digital-Color-Storage-Oscilloscope-Scopemeter-High-Voltage-Probe-p-913880.html

[@karlng2691]

Ralph S Bacon Thanks, Ralph! I just found out about this channel and I’m glad to be accepted in this community. Thanks! I look forward to your further videos!

[@TheDigitalAura]

Building the Gabotronics Xprotolab is fun as it's entirely SMD... I have 2 really nice scopes but still enjoy building kits just for the fun of it... It would be nice to have the option of a full build including the SMD components with this. Maybe I should mention I have JBC micro hot tweezers, Hakko micro pencil and a trinocular microscope, all of which make SMD infinitely less painful.

[@RalphBacon]

You bring new meaning to the words "is fun" when coupled with the words "entirely SMD"! But with your setup it should at least be less painful (but still not "fun" in my world)! However, you'll be pleased to know they do a totally UNASSEMBLED (and cheaper) version of this kit too, so if you want a some "fun"... and let us know how you get on of course!

[@andymouse]

I LOVE LEAD I LOVE LEAD!!!!! bloody lead free pain in the arse sir

[@RalphBacon]

You and me both, Andymouse123. I tried the lead-free solder and gave up within minutes. It's fine for commercial assembly plants but not for us hobbyists. I'm with you on this one (as are most other hobbyists).

[@petermoore9504]

Your screwdriver is phillips you need pozidrive for most screws, makes a big difference. Thanks for the vids, very informative.

[@RalphBacon]

Doubtless, you are correct, Peter, I must pay more attention to the screw format. With my eyes, it's lucky I can even find the screw and driver to put in it at all, quite frankly! Heh Heh! Thanks for posting.

[@madcockney]

@@RalphBacon A lot of Asian countries use JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) which are similar to Phillips but do not cam out as Phillips. This is less likely to be an issue with electronics but with vehicles, especially motorbikes, the cross point is often stripped out when using a Phillips on a JIS. (JIS will work on Phillips however.) I don't know how small JIS screwdrivers go down to. Pozidrive crosspoint are the preferred in Europe but much less so in other parts of the World so I assume that it comes down to your target purchaser and place of origination.

[@1pcfred]

I built one of these and mine seems to work up to 120 kHz. I bought it when Banggood put the kit on sale 50% off for $14 USD.

[@RalphBacon]

That's pretty good for this kit. Paul, but I guess it all depends what you mean by "works"! In video #97 I use this some more and whilst it shows a signal up to 100Khz it's not a true representation of what the trace really looks like (in a side-by-side comparison with my Rigol). But for the money I still find this a great tool, I wish I had had one 30 years ago when I was playing about with electronics. I certainly recommend this to all new Arduino fans. Thanks for sharing your experiences with this item, Paul.

[@1pcfred]

+Ralph S Bacon everything I've seen, or heard lead me to believe the effective bandwidth was going to be about 10X below the spec, or about 20 kHz. So I was quite surprised it seems to work as high as it does. But I have not used the unit so extensively yet either. I've only really hooked it up to a XR2206 function generator kit that I got with it so far. I'll have to fire up my old Tek CRO and put the DSO150 through its paces someday.

[@idontneednostinkingchannel6848]

Nice. Just built the 138 - piece of cake. Looking to see if this model has a faster sweep and PC interface.. have to tell my ham pal there - Now they have a 112A self powered Li-Ion $37 US that seems to be a few steps above - and its assembled. Tectronix-style probe and interface - above this you're looking into the $100's - hmm maybe wait a week or two (for the brain-chip version)? hihi thx for posting -

[@RalphBacon]

I wish I could plug in a chip to my brain. Just a WiFi chip would be enough so I can access Google just by thinking. One day, you wait and see!

[@tonysfun]

I'm looking for a way to try to program the JYETech small oscilloscope - where did you get the sketch? And how do you connect it to the small scope? Thanks for doing your videos, I'm a subscriber now.

[@RalphBacon]

You mean the sketch for _testing_ (not programming) the JYE out with a square wave, right, Tony? If it's not in the video description just copy if from the screen at 30:35, it's pretty clear. I just made it up. The pot leads go to VCC, centre pin to pin A0 and GND respectively. It generates a square wave from pin 9 using PWM. It adjust the frequency up to about 32kHz although the scope shows _something_ (but not a square wave) up to about 50kHz. It's fine for Arduino-type work. Did this kit include a BNC probe? I have one (small BNC connector with leads going to crocodile clips). If not, you will have to get one, but not an expensive one, not worth it for this device. Banggood has plenty. Thanks for the sub, you are now an official Arduinite. And there are plenty more videos to get you motivated during lockdown!

[@tonysfun]

@@RalphBacon Thank you very much! Fast reply! I was tired and did not pay as much attention, that you are testing output from Arduino ...... Bu this scope is running Arduino chip, someone said to me, but I can't remember it for sure. I know that inside are pins to program or upload the firmware. Do you know of anyone who has done any updates to this small scope? I use it to demo how to "see" the electric signal, when I teach someone about it - many adults, not just kids are amazed when I let them play with it. Also, have you seen this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKLJgqx6aKaAj6M and also lookup his 5-9-2020 video for this small scope - he is also very smart and did a big video in details one should see.

[@tonysfun]

@@RalphBaconThanks for your fast response. I was tired so I missed that part that you are just using an Arduino (I love Arduino's! also) to test the signal.... But if you ever find how to upload a better firmware and or do some upgrades on the hardware, I can do that also, please let me know. Have a great day!

[@RalphBacon]

I believe there IS an update to the firmware on that device, Tony, but as it works "well enough" for me, I wasn't prepared to try it out in case I bricked it. I'm sure a Google search should elicit some results. If you ever do go down the upgrade route let me know and I might get more courage to attempt it. jyetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/dso150-shell-how-to-upgrade-firmware.pdf

[@tonysfun]

@@RalphBacon Thanks for the info! I'll try to do it, but first I'll watch others to do and learn and than I'll try myself, since I never did this before. Have great day and I'll try to make a video, when I attempt to do so. I also found that there are other places using their own firmware: github.com/rudi48/dso150-110-plot

[@_Piers_]

Do Banggood accurately report values on customs declarations? It's great value at under £17, but less attractive at +£25.

[@RalphBacon]

Yes, this is a common question, Pook365. According to the this government webpage www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad/tax-and-duty DUTY is only payable on items over £135. VAT is payable on goods over £15 plus any aforementioned duty plus any postage. So, I suppose, this item could attract VAT on its (approximate) £17 cost, making it and extra £3.40 to pay. Now, whilst I'm not in any way trying to avoid paying due taxes, I've never paid a penny in all the years I've ordered (relatively low-cost items) from China / Far East. Given that there must be thousands every day coming into the UK, the chances of your particular items being intercepted must be pretty low (and it must be worth over £15 anyway, which 99% of the time mine are not). So if you order a £200 item in a large carton then it might well be looked at by customs. A little jiffy bag that is almost worthless (unless stuffed with uncut diamonds!) is unlikely to be looked at. That's the best I can say - but do read the webpage and decide for yourself. Incidentally this is why the Far Eastern companies often split your order into multiple deliveries, to get each individual packet down below the VAT / Duty threshold.

[@_Piers_]

Ralph S Bacon Yeah, I order a slightly worrying amount of items from China :) but try to avoid going over £15. I wouldn't be at all bothered if it was just the VAT, but Royal Mail would also charge an £8 fee for collecting the VAT from you. I think I'll just risk it :)

[@SodAlmighty]

+Pook365 In other words, they charge us tax on the tax. Bastards.

[@RyanUptonInnovator]

Could you hack the DS150 to a higher bandwidth by replacing the 8 Mhz crystal ?

[@RalphBacon]

I very much doubt it, Ryan, otherwise the manufacturers would probably have done it. I gues you could try a 16Mhz xtal but don't be surprised if it just fails to do anything at all! Good luck.

[@sickvic3909]

Need a video for those of us that don't know what the hell to do with it.

[@RalphBacon]

Actually, Vic, that's not a bad idea. I shall add it to my list of things to consider. Good to hear from you again!

[@Enigma758]

Will it safely measure mains voltage with the probe set for 10x?

[@RalphBacon]

Good grief, no. Or at least, I don't think I would put this near mains potential at all. I'm pretty sure *it would get fried and you with it* . I might be unnecessarily cautious but there have to be special design considerations for mains use and this kit is not designed for that. That's my personal opinion only. I'd keep it to below 50v frankly.

[@Enigma758]

@@RalphBacon That's why I specifically mentioned the 10x probe. Since the scope has a 50v limit implies a max of 500v with in the 10x mode. So mains is far less than that. Otherwise, what is the purpose of the 10x problem if you wouldn't use it for anything over 50v?

[@RalphBacon]

The probe itself might be OK connected to mains but what about everything else, from the probe's connection to the unit, to the way the voltage is kept separate (or not) internally from anything else and so on. Ultimately the choice is yours, and if you inspect the board and feel it is all safe then you can make that decision.

[@Enigma758]

@@RalphBacon So I think what you might be saying is that it is advertised that the 10x probe, is in fact a 10x probe, but that we shouldn't just automatically trust it because who knows if it is properly isolated or not. In general I would expect a 10x probe to be just that, but perhaps because the cost is so low and it's not a well established brand name, we should be suspect. Is that really the point?

[@RalphBacon]

Short answer: Exactly so. Longer answer: I'm suspect of anything that is connected (or could be connected) to the mains, if it comes from China. Especially when it is not a commercial, tested appliance with a genuine CE marking. I've had a couple of bad experiences (I documented at least one on this channel) of cheap, mains-connected items and now I'm just a bit wary. But I'd be more concerned about the board it's connected to. I can't believe it's designed to take mains voltages (even with a 10x probe). Cheap, Chinese and Mains just don't sit well without a bit of investigation first. It's a bit like the old adage: you can have it cheap, good and fast. Pick any two.

[@JerryEricsson]

I built one of those kits about 2 years back, whilst we were camping in the desert of Arizona. I guess you can't really call it camping, we were living in our Class A Motor Home with full power/water and sewer hookups. At any rate, I never got it working till last winter, I was posting my problem on another website, and it came to me, the little button on the front was not working. I ordered in a dozen of the little buggers and replaced it in my kit, now I have a working unit! Sadly, well for my pocketbook, I had already ordered it's bigger brother in a kit form and had that up and running before my discovery. So now I have 3 digital oscilloscopes, one I built using an arduino, and the 2 kits, as well as another unit I built from scratch that uses the sound-card in my laptop to input the signals and displays them on the screen of my laptop. Since I didn't want to chance screwing up my sound-card, I got one of those little USB sound-cards and use that to hook the unit up.

[@RalphBacon]

Sometimes less is more, Jerry, but I find I use this JYE now and again, even though I now have my "proper" scope on the desk next to me in the new workshop. So having more than you need is definitely better than less than you need!

[@adoniscmj3212]

I built one of these, but it didn't work. Unable to figure out why. I had built a DSO138 with no trouble at all. It works perfectly to this day. Although I did have a faulty voltage regulator in the DSO138, but once I replaced it, all has been good.

[@RalphBacon]

That is a shame, Adonis. Did you test the module first as per my video so at least you knew the main board was OK, just the analog to digital daughter board was not working?

[@adoniscmj3212]

No, I should have. It powers up but there is a signal on the screen without being connected to anything. Plus I get no response when I try to change any of the values with the knob. It seems to me that there is a problem with the board that has the knob on it.

[@RalphBacon]

I'd double check that board, Adonis. Check for shorts (tiny whiskas of solder between joints) with a magnifying glass, use a multimeter to check that the capacitors are not short circuit too. There just can't be that much wrong with it, so it's worth a shot.

[@yurkshirelad]

What is the next step up from this gadget? It would be interesting to see something at double this price with a comparison. I realise this is an old video. :)

[@RalphBacon]

The "next step up" is a "real" oscilloscope, Mike. The one everybody seems to buy (me included) is the RIGOL DS1052E which I had upgraded from 50Mhz to 100Mhz for a nominal sum. But that's a big step up because it is, after all, a "real" oscilloscope. But once you have that, you won't need another one for many years, if ever.

[@GroupDenmark]

also got some of these., as they cost close to nothing. but it looks like the batches you have is in fact are with newer firmware. (mine states (054 upper FW line end numbers, and lover LIB 041) while yours have FW 061 and LIB 053) 10:32 you can upgrade them in privat regi with USB serial interface and free software on DSO site, but a PIA to do in practise.. stablity and accuracy on the values' there should have improve with newer software..

[@GroupDenmark]

hx for the vid, though you gotta wonder why you left some of the vital moments out with all this none'saying'video'fillings. something like showing and demonstrating adjusting the pods and likewise to actually demonstrate liniar values or just balance & margins between metal screwdrivers vs platic'one. would likely be handy for most and partically since you where going on and on about it in the video and then not actually showing it. btw the boards differs on different batches C & E, notice you only got 1 section of header pins on your analog board, while most out there got two, but changed as of summer2017 and also the reason why you can trim it now with only main headerpins section.

[@RalphBacon]

Yup, you're right about not demoing the plastic trimmer tool, GroupDenmark, but the fact of the matter is the video was already so long I just plain forgot to do it. My bad. Thanks for the useful info about the difference in versions (both software and hardware) - but unless it makes a significant difference I guess most people will just accept whatever firmware is in the module (I probably would, given the relatively low-end spec for this oscilloscope). But very useful to know. I've used this little module a few times now and it does work well at lower frequencies.

[@williammiller7543]

I bought and assembled the unit and tested it by trying to view the output of a voltage monitor module. I had a hard time getting a readable display. was very jumpy. I also had the 54 S/W version. I checked the JYE/DSO site and there was an update 064 released in june/2017. It was a fairly simple process and after update, i went back to the same voltage module output and this time the display was very clear and was able to adjust the trim pot successfully. Caution. One of the first steps is clear the DSO memory. I didn't have any problems. Good product and Bangood helped me with a parts missing problem by sending me a complete NEW unit. JYE also is offering software update. I'd buy from them again, they seem like a reliable/professional company.

[@RalphBacon]

That's good news, William, and I might follow you on this path. I've just completed (but not yet published) a video which uses this 'scope and whilst it was mostly OK there were occasions when it would not lock onto the signal very well. Is it a simple step to clear the DSO memory? So I shall check this out over the weekend, thanks for the heads up, not just to me but the 3,790+ other viewers of this video!

[@williammiller7543]

Ralph, Their site has very good documentation for the upgrade. i'm impressed with this company that they would provide continued (in understandable english) support for this fairly innexpensive product. i would consider their other products when and if I consider a more comprehensive DSO. You can get the documentation for the upgrade at: www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/DSO150_HowToUpgradeFirmware.pdf

[@charlesarnold4963]

I bought and made this a couple of weeks ago. It's very useful for indicating the presence of signals but I would not trust the accuracy of voltage or time readings. I also found that the 100 mV built-in test signal was about 150 mV. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

[@RalphBacon]

TBH, I never measured how accurate it was, Charles. For the money, the fact it displayed anything at all was an amazing thing. It's more a window on the

[@charlesarnold4963]

Ralph S Bacon I’m delighted with it. I bought from a UK supplier at £21.99 inc postage. I think it's fantastic value. I could do with a X10 probe but that could cost more than the oscilloscope so I'll make do for the time being. I also bought 2 off 9V PP3 batteries that are rechargeable from a mini USB connector, which is great for doing measurements (I mean indications) away from home. A bit floppy but maybe I'll add some Velcro. As a matter of interest; I discovered that a friend of mine had a descent oscilloscope as well as one similar to the JYE DS0150, that he designed and built himself, based on a PIC, that I could have borrows and saved me £22! Ah well at least the one I've got is mine to keep and use until...

[@andrewd4906]

Just ordered after watching still at the same kind of price two years on.

[@RalphBacon]

Excellent, Andew. Take your time building it and it should work well for simple Arduino-type projects. I still use mine now and again.

[@caroman6761]

If I understood you right, than is leadfree solder banned in UK?, Why? Do you have experience in leadfree solder? Past year I bought a PowerSupplyas DIY-Kit. In the Manual was to read, use leadfree solder ONLY, hmmm

[@_Piers_]

CaroMan About 10years ago they banned leaded solder across the EU. More recently, that banned was altered so non commercial use of leaded solder was allowed again. We can buy both types.

[@RalphBacon]

Yes, as Pook365 says, we can buy both types. I call them the DIFFICULT and EASY types, aka lead-free and leaded. I mean, why would a hobbyist make it even more difficult for themselves to solder a decent joint when leaded is available (and legal)? Unleaded is only REQUIRED for commercial items, things you might sell, even if that is a cottage industry type selling. Other than that, buy yourself a decent roll of leaded solder, it will last you for years.

[@andymouse]

didn't you notice that step one had switches on but they arnt put on till later ?

[@RalphBacon]

You have the eyes of an Eagle, and no I didn't notice! But the photos were probably taken at various stages and they just got that bit wrong. It happens. Even on wonderful KZbin channels like this one. But believe me, if I make a mistake like that someone always lets me know!

[@andymouse]

it actually doesn't matter anyway does it ha !

[@andymouse]

what IDE are u using sir?

[@RalphBacon]

In this demo I'm using Eclipse with the Stino (Arduino helper) add-in. You can also install the Deviot Arduino add-in which is more recent and supports many boards. If all that is a bit much, try the simpler (but good) Sublime Text 3, which I've done a video on.

[@andymouse]

I never thought about using a different IDE will check it out sir thanks please message me a link to your video on the topic , thanks

[@RalphBacon]

It's video #69 kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnmqgJuGeJZ_o7M, have a go. A nice step up from the standard Arduino IDE.

[@andymouse]

thanks sir

[@PoweredByRedstonecom]

It got up to 32.768 kHz, odd number, don't you think?

[@RalphBacon]

Odd, as in What A Coincidence, you mean? Both the largest number in a signed integer and the frequency of many a clock crystal. Hmm. I guess they had to stop somewhere in a budget machine!

[@mrtom64]

Thanks for the video Ralph, very helpful. In return, doesn't pin 9 have a max default freq of 32KHz? Its on timer 1. You've probably seen this already but Nick Gammon has some very useful info, (inc UNO code), for freq up to 8MHz.....post #5 in particular... forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=128269.0 It may be of some use to you for testing?

[@RalphBacon]

Ah yes, Mr Tom, I believe it was Nick's library that I used for my Party Strobe Light and again here (not sure, but he produces some amazing stuff). I hacked the strobe light sketch for this demo and it was previously set to 1Mhz which worked fine so unless I changed the pin I'm not sure what happened. No big deal, it proved the point anyway! Thanks for the info, I'll take another look at Nick's stuff, thanks for posting.

[@MikeCharnock]

Could it be that you are "map"ing to an int, therefore max value +32768?

[@RalphBacon]

You could be right Mike, indeed so. I've zapped that test sketch now so I can't recall it but that does seem likely. If you watch the most recent video on this topic #97 Simple Function Generator you'll see this being used next to my Rigol 'scope, which does demonstrate it a bit better.

[@andymouse]

actually the smd pre soldered is cheaper ! explain that !

[@RalphBacon]

The reason the pre-soldered version is cheaper is because, well, er, ... no I can't explain it at all actually. Perhaps the pre-soldered one is available by the zillion from a nearby factory but to get the components and NOT solder them actually costs more? Who knows! I certainly don't. Unless it's part of their plan to save us all from heartache and pain and have a board that works first time?

[@andymouse]

nice that works for me sir

[@andymouse]

I paid a tenner for mine sir

[@RalphBacon]

Very good value then, AndyMouse123. Did it come with a case and everything? How do you find this mini oscilloscope, useful (for simple stuff)?

[@andymouse]

yes case and all, I think it will be very useful, I personally think for the money every home should have one !

[@jamesmclaughlinprimitivele4587]

Good videos, but pease get to the points little sooner

[@RalphBacon]

I'll translate that, James, as "stop waffling!" and I agree, sometimes I must get the point made sooner. Normally I edit out my waffle but on this occasion I was a bit rushed so left too much in. Point taken, thanks for posting.

[@fongy200]

I paid £22.69

[@RalphBacon]

Still not a bad price considering what you get, right?

[@herminigildojakosalem8664]

I feel sad that you refer to anti-static bags as "static bags". To those who have prior knowledge of this item that may mean nothing but others (such as those still "uninitiated" ) could learn it wrong. Anyhow, I know you probably couldn't care less about this comment and I get that. So, more power to you. Cheers!

[@RalphBacon]

I do care, Herminigildo! I should have referred to them by their proper name, not a name that indicates that static is somehow going to be generated! My bad, and I will endeavour to be more accurate in the future - as you say, I do not want to be "teaching" the wrong terminology. Thanks for pointing this out (well, sort of! you know what I mean), good to hear from you.

[@topherteardowns4679]

Terrible "piece of shitquipment" for your bench...

[@RalphBacon]

Why do you say that, Topher? For low frequency (< 50kHz) I thought that for the low price it was MUCH better than no scope at all.

[@jcjensenllc]

there is no bigger waste of time than "unboxing"? Don't EVER buy leaded solder.

[@RalphBacon]

I skip bits of videos that show the packaging for about 5 minutes, reading all the text on it! I tried to short circuit that painful experience in this video. When you say DON'T buy leaded solder, are you serious? Makers are specifically allowed to buy it because it is much, much easier to use. My advice to makers, hobbyists and the like is to never buy *unleaded* solder - solder by name with a lot of pain.